It may seem rather supererogatory to speak of "Vegetables" distinctively,
for the "unregenorate" will be inclined to declare that we have been
discussing nothing else all the while. But for the benefit of such as are
like the advertised domestic "willing to learn," I would say that
vegetarians as a rule use fresh vegetables practically in the same way as
meat eaters do, to supplement more substantial viands. No one--to my
knowledge at least--ever dines off the proverbial cabbage or turnip--perhaps
it would be better if they did now and then--but, that by the way. But
there are vegetables _and_ vegetables. No one who has gone in for the
most elementary food reform will tolerate the sodden, soap-like potatoes, or
the flabby, insipid, brown papery-looking stuff, called by courtesy cabbage,
which so often does duty as companion to beef, mutton, or pork. Perhaps,
though, the savoury cow or pig throws a halo over all the defects of its
surroundings. Be that as it may, there is need for improvement in many
ways, and by this I do not mean more elaboration in dressing or serving, for
this is not seldom used to disguise shortcomings which otherwise could not
escape notice. But disguising defects does not remove them, and we should
do well to safeguard ourselves by having our food cooked as simply and
naturally as possible.
The homeliest vegetables, too, if sound, ripe, and wholesome, are infinitely
to be preferred to the rare expensive sorts forced out of season or gathered
barely ripe and conveyed long distances to whet jaded palates. Well, to
begin with that vegetable we are supposed to live on,
Cabbage.
This may either be a choice delicacy or an unmitigated abomination. It
should be fresh, green, crisp and tender, and as newly pulled as possible.
Those who have gardens should leave it growing till half-an-hour before
cooking. When it must be kept for some time, see that it is in a shady,
cool place, and an hour or two before using; remove any tough or withered
leaves, split up the stalk well into the heart, if to be used whole, and lay
in a large basin of cold water. Add a handful of salt and two
tablespoonfuls vinegar to each gallon of water. Although freshly pulled all
leafy vegetables should be soaked in this way to remove any caterpillars,
slugs, &c., for even eaters of pig and ox have a curious objection to animal
food on a small scale. To cook, have ready a good-sized saucepan with
fast-boiling water containing a little salt, and if the cabbage is at all
old or tough, a bit of washing soda the size of a hazel nut, to each quart
of water. Drain very thoroughly from the water in which soaking, and plunge
into the fast-boiling water. It is most important that the water should not
go off the boil as then the juices would be drawn out and wasted. Boil
steadily with the lid off for 10 to 20 minutes according to age, then lift
into drainer on top of the boiling water and cook till tender in the steam.
Serve on hot vegetable dish with some bits of butter on the top. It should
be perfectly tender, yet crisp and of a vivid green. If at all brown, or
dull, or flabby-looking, there is something wrong, either with the vegetable
itself or the cooking. And I am not to give directions for "doctoring"
anything that is either unwholesome or spoiled. A paragraph has been going
the round of certain papers lately, giving directions for disguising the
flavour of tainted meat, which "few cooks know how to treat so as to render
perfectly nice"! It is to be wrapped in vinegar cloths, &c.--"boil up, and
use it." I should say doctor it as you please, but then--throw it away! If
anything, no matter what, goes bad--milk, soup, vegetables--throw it out
without hesitation. It is a pity to waste things--and this ought to be
prevented by good management--but surely it is much greater waste to use
tainted food. Better miss a meal, if need be, than make a refuse bin of our
bodies. All this may seem a digression, but I am so thoroughly convinced
that a large proportion of the "ills that flesh is heir to"--and we accept
the inheritance with a resignation "worthy of a better cause"--is due to
unsound or improperly prepared food, that I make no apology. Many people
have told me that they daren't touch certain vegetables, and when I have
seen these as served by them have cordially agreed with them. The most
common error, especially with green vegetables, like
Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Greens, &c.,
which all require much the same treatment, is over-cooking. There seems to
be a popular notion, somehow, regarding vegetables, that the more you cook
them the better they are, and after all the substance and flavour has been
boiled out of them, people wonder how anyone can relish such stuff! Each
vegetable should get just the bare amount of cooking necessary, and no more.
If they have to wait for some time before serving, stand over boiling water
as directed above. Most vegetables may be cooked entirely by
Steaming.
This conserves all their own juices which contain the various valuable
natural salts, alkalies, &c., so necessary to health, and which we so vainly
try to make up by the addition of crude minerals.
Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes,
and all root vegetables and tubers, are best cooked by steaming. Steamers
with perforated bottoms to fit the various sizes of saucepan are now to be
had from any ironmonger. A very good way to cook carrots, turnips, and
parsnips, is to make up a good white sauce, put in Queen pudding-bowl or
some other such dish, lay in the carrots, parsnips, &c. Cover and steam
till cooked. If rather old, they may first be par-boiled. This should be
done before the skin is removed.