The following directions will be found generally applicable, so that there
will be no need to repeat the several details each time. Seasonings are not
specified, as these are a matter of individual taste and circumstance. Some
from considerations of health or otherwise are forbidden the use of salt.
In such cases a little sugar will help to bring out the flavour of the
vegetables, but unless all the members of the household are alike, it had
best not be added before bringing to table. Where soup is to be strained,
whole pepper, mace, &c., is much preferable to ground, both as being free
from adulteration, and giving all the flavour without the grit. The water
in which cauliflower, green peas, &c., have been boiled, should be added to
the stock-pot, but as we are now recognising that all vegetables should be
cooked as conservatively as possible--that is, by steaming, or in just as
much water as they will absorb, so as not to waste the valuable salts and
juices, there will not be much of such liquid in a "Reform" menage. A stock
must therefore be made from fresh materials, but as those are comparatively
inexpensive, we need not grudge having them of the freshest and best.
Readers of Thackeray will remember the little dinner at Timmins, when the
hired _chef_ shed such consternation in the bosom of little Mrs Timmins
by his outrageous demands for 'a leg of beef, a leg of veal, and a ham', on
behalf of the stock-pot. But the 'Reform' housekeeper need be under no
apprehension on that score, for she can have the choicest and most wholesome
materials fresh from the garden to her _pot-au-feu_, at a trifling
cost. Of course it is quite possible to be as extravagant with vegetarian
foods as with the other, as when we demand forced unnatural products out of
their season, when their unwholesomeness is matched only by their cost. No
one who knows what sound, good food really is, will dream of using
manure-fed tomatoes, mushrooms at 3s. per lb.; or stringy tough asparagus,
at 5s. or 10s. a bunch, when seasonable products are to be had for a few
pence.
The exact quantities are not always specified either, in the following
recipes, as that too has to be determined by individual requirement, but as
a general rule they will serve four to six persons. The amount of
vegetables, &c., given, will be in proportion to 3 pints, i.e. 12 gills
liquid. Serve all soups with croutons of toast or fried bread.
White Stock.
The best stock for white soups is made from small haricots. Take 1 lb. of
these, pick and wash well, throwing away any that are defective, and if
there is time soak ten or twelve hours in cold water; put on in clean
saucepan--preferably earthenware or enamelled--along with the water in which
soaked (if not soaked scald with boiling water, and put on with fresh
boiling water), some of the coarser stalks of celery, one or two chopped
Spanish onions, blade of mace, and a few white pepper-corns. If celery is
out of season, a little celery seed does very well. Bring to boil, skim,
and cook gently for at least two hours. Strain, and use as required.
Clear Stock.
For clear stock take all the ingredients mentioned above, also some carrot
and turnip in good-sized pieces, some parsley, and mixed herbs as preferred,
and about 1/2 lb. of hard peas, which should be soaked along with the
haricots. Simmer very gently two to three hours. Great care must be taken
in straining not to pulp through any of the vegetables or the stock will be
muddy, or as we Scotch folks would say "drumlie." If not perfectly clear
after straining, return to saucepan with some egg-shells or white of egg,
bring to boil and strain again through jelly-bag. A cupful of tomatoes or a
few German lentils are a great improvement to the flavour of this stock, but
will of course colour it more or less.
Brown Stock.
Take 1/2 lb. brown beans, 1/2 lb. German lentils, 1/2 lb. onions, 1 large
carrot, celery, &c. Pick over the beans and lentils, and scald for a minute
or two in boiling water. This ensures their being perfectly clean, and free
from any possible mustiness. Strain and put on with fresh boiling water
some black and Jamaica pepper, blade mace, &c., and boil gently for an hour
or longer. Shred the onion, carrot, and celery finely and fry a nice brown
in a very little butter taking great care not to burn, and add to the soup.
Allow all to boil for one hour longer, and strain. A few tomatoes sliced
and fried along with, or instead of the carrot, or a cupful of tinned
tomatoes would be a great improvement. This as it stands is a very fine
Clear Brown Soup,
but if a thicker, more substantial soup is wanted, rub through as much of
the pulp as will give the required consistency. Return to saucepan, and add
a little soaked tapioca, ground rice, cornflour, &c., as a _liaison_.
Boil till that is clear, stirring well. Serve with croutons of toast or
fried bread. This soup may be varied in many ways, as by adding some finely
minced green onions, leeks, or chives either before or after straining and
some parsley a few minutes before serving.
White Windsor Soup.
Take 4 breakfast cupfuls white stock or water, add 6 tablespoonfuls mashed
potato and 1 oz fine sago. Stir till clear and add 1 breakfast cup milk and
some minced parsley. Let come just to boiling point but no more. If water
is used instead of stock some finely shred onion should be cooked without
browning in a little butter and added to the soup when boiling. Rub through
a sieve into hot tureen.
White Soubise Soup.
Melt in lined saucepan 2 oz. butter, and into that shred 1/2 lb. onions.
Allow to sweat with lid on very gently so as not to brown for about half an
hour. Add 1-1/2 pints white stock and about 6 ozs. scraps of bread any
hard pieces will do, but no brown crust. Simmer very gently for about an
hour, run through a sieve and return to saucepan with 1 pint milk. Bring
slowly to boiling point and serve. To make