CHAPTER XIII.

ARKANSAS, AND TERRITORIAL DISTRICTS.

Arkansas, which has recently formed a constitution, lies between 33 deg.

and 36 deg. 30' N. latitude, and between 13 deg. 30' and 17 deg. 45' W.

longitude. Length, 235; medium breadth, 222 miles;--containing about

50,000 square miles, and 32,000,000 acres.

_Civil Divisions._--The following are the counties, with the population,

from the census taken in 1835:

Counties. Population.

Arkansas, 2,080

Carroll, 1,357

Chicot, 2,471

Conway, 1,214

Clark, 1,285

Crawford, 3,139

Crittenden, 1,407

Greene, 971

Hempstead, 2,955

Hot-Spring, 6,117

Independence, 2,653

Izard, 1,879

Jackson, 891

Jefferson, 1,474

Johnson, 1,803

La Fayette, 1,446

Lawrence, 3,844

Miller, 1,373

Mississippi, 600

Monroe, 556

Phillips, 1,518

Pike, 449

Pope, 1,318

Pulaski, 3,513

Scott, 100

Sevier, 1,350

St. Francis, 1,896

Union, 878

Van Buren, 855

Washington, 6,742

------

Total, 58,212

Another table we have seen, makes out the population, as officially

reported (with the exception of two counties, from which returns had not

been made,) to be 51,809;--white males, 22,535; white females,

19,386;--total whites, 41,971: slaves, 9,629;--free persons of color,

209. The population, in 1830, 30,388;--in 1833, 40,660.

The following graphical description of Arkansas, from the pen of a

clergyman in that State, is corroborated by testimony in our possession,

from various correspondents. It was written in 1835.

_Letter from Rev. Harvey Woods, to the Editor of the Cincinnati

Journal._

"Arkansas Territory is a part of that vast country ceded to the United

States by France, in 1803. From the time of the purchase, till lately,

the tide of emigration hardly reached thus far. In 1800, the population

was 1052. Arkansas was erected into a Territory in 1819. At this time it

is receiving a share of those who retire beyond the Mississippi.

_Rivers._--The Territory is admirably intersected with navigable rivers.

The Mississippi on the east, the Great Red river on the south. Between

these, and running generally from N. W. to S. E. are the St. Francis,

White, Arkansas, and Washitau rivers; all fine streams for steamboat

navigation.

_Face of the Country._--It is various. No country affords more

diversified scenery. The country in the east, for 100 miles, is flat

with marshes and swamps; in the middle, broken and hilly; and in the

west, hilly and mountainous. There are some prairies, some thickly

timbered land, some heavy timbered. The country is generally a timbered

country. Some parts are sandy, some rocky, and some flinty.

_Soil._--Should a man travel here, and expect to find all good land, he

would be sadly disappointed. The best lands are generally contiguous to

the rivers and creeks; and these are exceedingly fertile, not surpassed

by any soil in the United States. Arkansas soil that is rich, has just

sand enough to make it lively and elastic. Our best lands are covered

with walnut, hackberry, mulberry, oak, ash, grape vines, &c.

_Water._--The hilly and mountainous parts are well supplied with

springs, limestone, and freestone. Also good streams for mills. In the

flat country, good water is easily obtained by digging.

_Productions._--Cotton and corn are the principal. The Arkansas cottons

commanded the best price last season, in the Liverpool market. It is a

country of unequalled advantages for raising horses, mules, cattle and

hogs.

_Climate._--It is mild, and from its difference in latitude, say from

32 deg. 40' to 36 deg. 30' N., and the difference in local situation, we

would guess, and correctly too, that there is much difference in the

health of different places; the high and northern parts healthy, and the

flat and southern subject to agues and bilious fevers. The climate has

been considered unhealthy to new settlers; but it is not more so than

other new countries.

_Minerals._--There are quantities of iron, lead, coal, salt, and, it is

asserted by some, silver. There are many salt and sulphur springs. On

the Arkansas river, beyond the limits of the Territory proper, is a

section of country called the salt prairie, which, according to good

authority, is covered for many miles, from four to six inches deep, with

pure white salt. In the Hot Spring country, are the famous hot springs,

much resorted to by persons of chronic and paralytic diseases. The

temperature, in dry, hot weather, is at boiling point.

_State of Society._--The general character of the people is brave,

hardy, and enterprising--frequently without the polish of literature,

yet kind and hospitable. The people are now rapidly improving in morals

and intellect. They are as ready to encourage schools, the preaching of

the gospel, and the benevolent enterprises of the age, as any people in

new countries. The consequences of living here a long time without the

opportunity of educating their children, and destitute of the means of

grace, are, among this population, just what they always will be under

similar circumstances. Ministers of all denominations are "few and far

between." We have no need _here_ to build on other's foundation.

I am living in Jackson county, on White river. This county has a larger

quantity of good land than any one in the Territory. White river is

always navigable for steamboats to this place, 350 miles from its mouth.

Well-water is good,--some fine springs. Washington county, and some

others, that have the reputation of better health, are more populous.

We want settlers; and we have no doubt that vast numbers of families in

the States, particularly the poor, and those in moderate circumstances,

would better their situation by coming here, where they can get plenty

of fertile and fresh land at government price, $1,25 per acre. They can

have good range, and all the advantages of new countries. Emigrants,

however, ought not to suffer themselves to expect all sunshine, and no

winter. We have cloudy days and cold weather, even in Arkansas! If they

have heard of the _honey pond_, where flitters grow on trees, they need

not be surprised if they don't find it. Cabins cannot be built, wells

dug, farms opened, rails made, and meeting-houses and school-houses

erected, without work.

It may be asked, "If Arkansas be so fine a country, why has it not been

settled faster?" There are perhaps three reasons;--a fear of the

Indians, a fear of sickness, a fear of bad roads. The Indians are now

all peaceably situated beyond the Territory proper, and are blessed with

the labors of a number of good pious missionaries, who are teaching them

to read the Bible, and showing the tall sons of the forest the way that

leads to heaven. Sickness is no more to be dreaded here than in Illinois

and Missouri. The roads have indeed been bad.--For a long time, no one

could venture through the Mississippi swamps, unless he was a Daniel

Boone. But appropriations have been made by Congress for several roads.

This summer, roads from Memphis to Little Rock, and to Litchfield and

Batesville, and other points, will be completed. An appropriation of

upwards of $100,000 has been made to construct a road through the

Mississippi swamp.

Again: we want settlers--we want physicians, lawyers, ministers,

mechanics and farmers. We want such, however, and _only such_ as will

make good neighbors. If any who think of coming to live with us, are

gamblers, drunkards, Sabbath-breakers, profane swearers, or the like, we

hope that when they leave their _old_ country, they will leave their

_old_ habits."

We have not seen the Constitution of this State, now pending before

Congress for admission into the Union, but understand that its essential

principles are the same as that of the other Western States.

WISCONSIN TERRITORY.

Under this name is now comprehended an extensive district of country,

lying on both sides of the Mississippi river, above Illinois and

Missouri, and extending indefinitely north. That portion lying betwixt

the northern boundary of Illinois and the Wisconsin river, and from lake

Michigan to the Mississippi, has the Indian title extinguished, and, in

part, has been surveyed and brought into market. There is much excellent

land in this part of the Territory, and it is well watered with

perennial streams and springs. Offices are opened for the sale of public

lands, at Mineral Point and Green Bay, and a large amount has been sold,

and some at a high price. The country immediately bordering on lake

Michigan, is well timbered, with various trees. Here are red, white,

black and burr oaks, beech, ash, linden, poplar, walnut, hickory, sugar

and white maple, elm, birch, hemlock, and pine, with many other kinds.

The soil is not so deep and dark a mould as in the prairies of Illinois,

but is fertile and easily cultivated; and sandy, especially about the

town of Green Bay. Towards the lake, and near the body of water called

Sturgeon Bay, connected with Green Bay, and between that and the lake,

are extensive swamps and cranberry marshes. Wild rice, tamarisk, and

spruce, grow here. About Rock river and from thence to the Mississippi,

there is much excellent land, but a deficiency of timber. Lead and

copper ore, and probably other minerals, abound in this part of the

country. Along to the east and north of the Four lakes, are alternate

quagmires and sand ridges, for 50 miles or more, called by the French

_coureurs du bois_, "_Terre Tremblant_," (trembling land,) the

character of which is sufficiently indicated by the name.

There are several small lakes in the district of country we are now

examining, the largest of which is Winnebago. It is situated 30 or 40

miles south of Green Bay,--is about ten miles long, and three broad, and

is full of wild rice. Fox river passes through it. Kushkanong is six or

eight miles in diameter, with some swamps and quagmires in its vicinity.

It is on Rock river, between Catfish and Whitewater.

The _Four lakes_ are strung along on a stream called Catfish, which

enters Rock river 25 or 30 miles above the boundary of Illinois. They

are 6 or 8 miles long, abounding with fish, and are surrounded with an

excellent farming country.

Green Bay settlement and village is 230 miles north of Chicago, 220

north-east from Galena, 120 from Fort Winnebago, and in N. latitude 44

deg. 44'. _Navarino_ is a town recently commenced in this vicinity, with

an excellent harbor, grows rapidly, and bids fair to become a place of

importance. Property has risen the last year most astonishingly.

Fort Winnebago is a military post, at the bend, and on the right bank of

Fox river, opposite the portage. From thence to the Wisconsin, is a low

wet prairie, of three fourths of a mile, through which, a company has

been chartered to cut a canal. On this route, the first explorers

reached the Mississippi in 1673. The Wisconsin river, however, without

considerable improvement, is not navigable for steamboats, at ordinary

stages of the water, without much trouble. It is full of bars, islands,

rocks, and has a devious channel.

The streams that rise in the eastern part of this Territory, and flow

into lake Michigan, north of the boundary of Illinois, are in order as

follows: Pipe creek, a small stream, but a few miles from the

boundary,--Root river next,--then Milwaukee, 90 miles from Chicago. It

rises in the swampy country, south of Winnebago lake, runs a

south-easterly course, and, after receiving the Menomone, forms

Milwaukee bay. Here is a town site, on both sides of the river, with a

population of six or eight hundred, which promises to become a place of

business. The soil up the Milwaukee is good, from 6 to 32 inches in

depth, a black loam and sand.

Passing northward down the lake is Oak creek, 9 miles below

Milwaukee,--thence 21 miles is Sauk creek, a small stream. Seventy miles

from Milwaukee is Shab-wi-wi-a-gun. Here is found white pine, maple,

beech, birch and spruce, but very little oak: the surface level and

sandy. Pigeon river is 15 or 20 miles further on, with excellent land on

its borders;--timber,--maple, ash, beech, linden, elm, &c. Fifteen miles

further down, is Manatawok. Here commences the hemlock, with

considerable pine. This stream is about 40 or 50 miles from Green Bay

settlement. Twin rivers are below Manatawok, with sandy soil, and good

timber of pine and other varieties. From Milwaukee to Green Bay, by a

surveyed route, is 112 miles;--by the Indian trail, commonly travelled,

135 miles. North of the Wisconsin river, is Crawford county, of which

Prairie du Chien is the seat of justice. From the great bend at Fort

Winnebago across towards the Mississippi is a series of abrupt hills,

rising several hundred feet, and covered with a dense forest of elm,

linden, oak, walnut, ash, sugar maple, &c. The soil is rich, but is too

hilly and broken for agricultural purposes. There is no alluvial soil,

or bottoms along the streams, or grass in the forests.

The Wisconsin river rises in an unexplored country towards lake

Superior. The _coureurs du bois_, and _voyageurs_ represent it as a

cold, mountainous, dreary region, with swamps.

West of the Mississippi, above Des Moines, and extending northward to a

point some distance above the northern boundary of Illinois, and for 50

miles interior, is a valuable country, purchased of the Indians in 1832.

Its streams rise in the great prairies, run an east or south-eastern

course into the Mississippi. The most noted are Flint, Skunk,

Wau-be-se-pin-e-con, Upper and Lower Iowa rivers, and Turkey, Catfish,

and Big and Little Ma-quo-ka-tois, or Bear creeks. The soil, in general,

is excellent, and very much resembles the military tract in Illinois.

The water is excellent,--plenty of lime, sand and freestone,--extensive

prairies, and a deficiency of timber a few miles interior. About

Dubuque, opposite Galena, are extensive and rich lead mines. Burlington

is a town containing a population of 700, at the Flint hills opposite

Warren county, Illinois. Dubuque is situated on the Mississippi, on a

sandy bottom, above high water, and 14 miles N. W. from Galena. It has

about 60 stores and groceries, 2 taverns, 2 churches, and about 1000

inhabitants, and we have before us the prospectus for the "DUBUQUE

VISITER," a weekly newspaper. Peru is in the vicinity, and contains

about 500 inhabitants. The New Purchase, as this district of country is

called, is divided into two counties, Dubuque, and Des Moines, and

contains a population of 8 or 10,000. The whole Wisconsin Territory is

estimated by its legislature, now in session, to contain 30,000

inhabitants.

Hitherto, for civil purposes, this region has formed a part of Michigan

Territory, and still its legislature acts under that name; but a bill is

before Congress to organize a territorial government under the name of

WISCONSIN, which doubtless will be effected in a few weeks. Not

many years will elapse before two new States will be formed out of this

district of country, the one on the eastern, and the other on the

western, side of the Mississippi.

A New Guide for Emigrants to the West · 第 11 / 13 章