WESTERN PENNSYLVANIA.
The portion of Pennsylvania lying west of the Alleghany ridge, contains
the counties of Washington, Greene, Fayette, Westmoreland, Alleghany,
Beaver, Butler, Armstrong, Mercer, Venango, Crawford, Erie, Warren,
McKean, Jefferson, Indiana, Somerset, and a part of Cambria.
_Face of the Country._--Somerset, and parts of Fayette, Westmoreland,
Cambria, Indiana, Jefferson, and McKean are mountainous, with
intervening vallies of rich, arable land. The hilly portions of
Washington, and portions of Fayette, Westmoreland, and Alleghany
counties are fertile, with narrow vales of rich land intervening. The
hills are of various shapes and heights, and the ridges are not uniform,
but pursue various and different directions. North of Pittsburg, the
country is hilly and broken, but not mountainous, and the bottom lands
on the water courses are wider and more fertile. On French creek, and
other branches of the Alleghany river there are extensive tracts of
rich bottom, or intervale lands, covered with beech, birch, sugar maple,
pine, hemlock, and other trees common to that portion of the United
States. The pine forests in Pennsylvania and New York, about the heads
of the Alleghany river, produce vast quantities of lumber, which are
sent annually to all the towns along the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. It
is computed that not less than thirty million feet of lumber are
annually sent down the Ohio from this source.
_Soil, Agriculture, &c._--Portions of the country are excellent for
farming. The _glade_ lands, as they are called, in Greene and other
counties, produce oats, grass, &c., but are not so good for wheat and
corn. Those counties which lie towards lake Erie are better adapted to
grazing. Great numbers of cattle are raised here. Washington and other
counties south of Pittsburg produce great quantities of wool. The
Monongahela has been famous for its whiskey, but it is gratifying to
learn that it is greatly on the decline, and that its manufacture begins
to be regarded as it should be,--ruinous to society. A large proportion
of the distilleries are reported to have been abandoned. Bituminous coal
abounds in all the hills around Pittsburg, and over most parts of
Western Pennsylvania. Iron ore is found abundantly in the counties along
the Alleghany, and many furnaces and forges are employed in its
manufactory. Salt springs abound on the Alleghany, and especially on the
Conemaugh and Kiskiminitas, where salt, in large quantities, is
manufactured.
The natural advantages of Western Pennsylvania are great. Almost every
knoll, hill and mountain can be turned to some good account, and its
rivers, canals, rail and turnpike roads afford facilities for
intercommunication, and for transportation of the productions to a
foreign market. The advantages of this region for trade, agriculture,
raising stock, and manufacturing, are great. The streams furnish
abundant mill-seats, the air is salubrious, and the morals of the
community good. Till recently, Pennsylvania has been neglectful to
provide for common schools. A school system is now in successful
operation, and has a strong hold on the confidence and affections of the
people in this part of the State.
_Internal Improvements._--Pennsylvania has undertaken an immense system
of internal improvements, throughout the State. The Alleghany portage
rail-road commences at Hollidaysburgh, on the Juniata river, at the
termination of the eastern division of the great Pennsylvania canal, and
crosses the Alleghany ridge at Blair's Gap, summit 37 miles, to
Johnstown on the Conemaugh. Here it connects with the western division
of the same canal. It ascends and descends the mountain by five inclined
planes on each side, overcoming in ascent and descent 2570 feet, 1398 of
which are on the eastern, and 1172 on the western side of the mountain.
563 feet are overcome by grading, and 2007 feet by the planes. On this
line, also, are four extensive viaducts, and a tunnel 870 feet long, and
20 feet wide, through the staple bend of the Conemaugh river. The
western division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at Johnstown, on
the Conemaugh, pursues the course of that stream, and also that of the
Kiskiminitas and Alleghany rivers, and finally terminates at Pittsburg.
In its course from Johnstown it passes through the towns of Fairfield,
Lockport, Blairsville, Saltzburg, Warren, Leechburg, and Freeport, most
of which are small villages, but increasing in size and business. "The
canal is 104 miles in length: lockage 471 feet, 64 locks, (exclusive of
four on a branch canal to the Alleghany,) 10 dams, 1 tunnel, 16
aqueducts, 64 culverts, 39 waste-wiers, and 152 bridges.
"The canal commissioners, in their reports to the legislature, strongly
recommend the extension of this division to the town of Beaver, so as to
unite with the Beaver division. By a recent survey, the distance was
ascertained to be 25.065 miles, and the estimated cost of construction,
$263,821. This, with a proposed canal from Newcastle to Akron, on the
Ohio and Erie canal, will form a continuous inland communication between
Philadelphia and New Orleans, of 2435 miles, with the exception of the
passage over the Alleghany portage rail-road, of 36.69 miles in
length.[8] It is 395 miles from Philadelphia to Pittsburg by this
canal.
The Beaver division of the Pennsylvania canal commences at the town of
Beaver, on the Ohio river, at the junction of the Big Beaver river,
25-1/2 miles below Pittsburg, ascends the valley of that river, thence
up the Chenango creek to its termination in Mercer county, a distance of
42.68 miles. This work, together with a feeder on French creek, and
other works now in progress, are parts of a canal intended eventually to
connect the Ohio river with lake Erie, at the town of Erie; which, when
finished, will probably be about 130 miles in length. It is also
proposed to construct a canal from Newcastle, on the Beaver division,
24.75 miles above the town of Beaver, along the valley of the Mahoning
river, to Akron, near the portage summit of the Ohio and Erie canal, 85
miles in length, 8 miles of which are in Pennsylvania, and the residue
in Ohio. Estimated cost, $764,372.
The Cumberland, or National road, crosses the south-western part of
Pennsylvania. It passes through Brownsville where it crosses the
Monongahela river, and Washington, into a corner of Virginia to
Wheeling, where it crosses the Ohio river, and from thence through Ohio,
Indiana and Illinois to the Mississippi river, or perhaps to the western
boundary of Missouri.
_Chief Towns._--_Brownsville_, situated on the east side of the
Monongahela river, is in a romantic country, surrounded with rich farms
and fine orchards, and contains about 1200 inhabitants. It is at the
head of steamboat navigation. _Washington_ is the county seat of
Washington county, surrounded with a fertile but hilly country, contains
about 2000 inhabitants, and has a respectable college. _Cannonsburgh_ is
situated on the west side of Chartier's creek, 8 miles north of
Washington. It also has a flourishing college, with buildings in an
elevated and pleasant situation. _Uniontown_ is the county seat of
Fayette, on the National road, and contains about 1500 inhabitants.
_Greensburg_ is the seat of justice for Westmoreland county, on the
great turnpike road from Philadelphia by Harrisburg to Pittsburg, and
has about 850 inhabitants. _Beaver_ is situated at the mouth of Big
Beaver, on the Ohio, with a population of 1000 or 1200, and is a place
of considerable business. _Meadville_ is the seat of justice for
Crawford county, situated near French creek, and has about 1200
inhabitants. Here is a college established by the Rev. Mr. Alden, some
years since, to which the late Dr. Bentley of Salem, Mass., bequeathed a
valuable library. It is now under the patronage of the Methodist
Episcopal church.
_Erie_ is a thriving town, situated on the south side of lake Erie, one
hundred and twenty miles north of Pittsburg. Steamboats that pass up the
lake from Buffalo, usually stop here, from whence stage routes
communicate with Pittsburg, and many other towns in the interior. The
portage from this place to the navigable waters of the Alleghany river
is fifteen miles over a turnpike road. The population of Erie is from
1500 to 2000, and increasing.
_Waterford_, the place where the Erie portage terminates, is situated on
the north bank of the French creek; it is a place of considerable
business. French creek is a navigable branch of the Alleghany river.
_Franklin_, _Kittanning_, and _Freeport_, are respectable towns on the
Alleghany river, between Pittsburg and Meadville.
_Economy_ is the seat of the German colony, under the late Mr. Rapp,
which emigrated from their former residence of Harmony on the Wabash
river in Indiana. It is a flourishing town on the right bank of the
Ohio, 18 miles below Pittsburg. It has several factories, a large
church, a spacious hotel, and 800 or 900 inhabitants, living in a
community form, under some singular regulations. The Economists, or
Harmonists, as they were called, in Indiana, are an industrious, moral
and enterprising community, with some peculiarities in their religious
notions. There are many other towns and villages in Western
Pennsylvania, of moral, industrious inhabitants, which the limits of
this work will not permit me to notice.
PITTSBURG is the emporium of Western Pennsylvania, and from its
manufacturing enterprise, especially in iron wares, has been
denominated the "Birmingham of the West." It stands on the land formed
at the junction of the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers on a level
alluvion deposit, but entirely above the highest waters, surrounded with
hills. This place was selected as the site of a fort and trading depot
by the French, about eighty years since, and a small stockade erected,
and called Fort du Quesne, to defend the country against the occupancy
of it by the English, and to monopolize the Indian trade. It came into
the possession of the British upon the conquest of this country after
the disastrous defeat of Gen. Braddock; and under the administration of
the elder Pitt, a fort was built here under the superintendence of lord
Stanwix, that cost more than $260,000, and called Fort Pitt. In 1760, a
considerable town arose around the fort, surrounded with beautiful
gardens and orchards, but it decayed on the breaking out of the Indian
war, in 1763. The origin of the present town may be dated 1765. Its plan
was enlarged and re-surveyed in 1784, and then belonged to the Penn
family as a part of their hereditary manor. By them it was sold.
The Indian wars in the West retarded its growth for several years after,
but since, it has steadily increased, according to the following
TABLE.
1800, 1,565
1810, 4,768
1820, 7,248
1830, 12,542
1835, _estimated_, 30,000
The estimate of 1835, includes the suburbs. The town is compactly built,
and some streets are handsome; but the use of coal for culinary and
manufacturing purposes, gives the town a most dingy and gloomy aspect.
Its salubrity and admirable situation for commerce and manufactures
ensure its future prosperity and increase of population. The exhaustless
beds of coal in the bluffs of the Monongahela, and of iron ore, which is
found in great abundance in all the mountainous regions of Western
Pennsylvania, give it preeminence over other western cities for
manufacturing purposes. It really stands at the head of steamboat
navigation on the waters of the Ohio; for the Alleghany and Monongahela
rivers are navigable only at high stages of water, and by the recent
improvements in the channel of the Ohio, and the use of light draft
boats, the navigation to Pittsburg is uninterrupted except in winter.
The suburbs of Pittsburg are Birmingham, on the south bank of the
Monongahela, Alleghany town, on the opposite side of the Alleghany
river, and containing a population of about seven thousand,
Lawrenceville, Northern and Eastern Liberties.
MANUFACTURES.
Nail Factories and Rolling Mills. Weight in lbs. Value.
Union, 720,000 $43,200
Sligo, 400,000 32,000
Pittsburg, 782,887 86,544
Grant's Hill, 500,000 20,000
Juniata, 500,000 30,000
Pine Creek, 457,000 34,100
Miscellaneous factories, 360,000 28,200
The foregoing table was constructed in 1831. Doubtless this branch of
business has greatly increased.
The same year there were 12 foundries in and near Pittsburg, which
converted 2963 tons of metal into castings, employed 132 hands, consumed
87,000 bushels of charcoal, and produced the value of $189,614.
The following sketch of manufactures in Pittsburg and vicinity, is
copied from Tanner's Guide, published in 1832:
Steam engines 37, which employed 123 hands. Value, $180,400.
Cotton factories 8, with 369 power-looms, 598 hands; value, $300,134. In
the counties of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are 5 cotton
factories.
In Pittsburg and the two counties just named, are 8 paper mills, valued
at $165,000.
In Pittsburg and vicinity are 5 steam mills, which employ 50 hands.
Value of their products annually, $80,000.
There are 5 brass foundries and 8 coppersmiths' shops. Value of the
manufactures, $25,000.
Within the limits of the city, there are 30 blacksmiths' shops, which
employ 136 hands. There are also 4 gunsmiths, and 9 silversmiths and
watch repairers.
In Pittsburg and the counties of Westmoreland and Alleghany, there are
26 saddleries; and 41 tanneries, 64 brick yards, and 11 potteries. There
are in the city 4 breweries, and 4 white lead manufactories, at which
7,400 kegs are made annually; value, $27,900.
There are 6 printing-offices in Pittsburg, and 6 more in the two
counties.
The estimated value of the manufactures of every kind in Pittsburg, and
the counties of Alleghany and Westmoreland, in 1831, was $3,978,469.
Doubtless they have greatly increased since.
_Coal._--The bituminous coal formations around Pittsburg are well
deserving the attention of geologists. Coal Hill, on the west side of
the Monongahela, and immediately opposite Pittsburg, is the great source
of this species of fuel, and the miners, in some places, have perforated
the hill to the distance of several hundred feet. It is found in strata
from 6 inches to 10 or 12 feet in thickness, and often at the height of
300 feet above the bed of the river, in the hills around Pittsburg, and
along the course of the Alleghany and Monongahela. Below this one
stratum, which is of equal elevation, none is found till you reach the
base of the hill below the bed of the river. Besides supplying
Pittsburg, large quantities are sent down the river.
There are in Pittsburg, (or _were_ two years since) three Baptist
churches, or congregations, one of which is of Welch, four Presbyterian,
four Methodist, one Episcopal, one Roman Catholic, (besides a cathedral
on Grant's Hill,) one Covenanter, one Seceder, one German Reformed, one
Unitarian, one Associate Reformed, one Lutheran, one African, and
perhaps some others in the city or suburbs.
Of the public buildings deserving notice, I will name the _Western
University of Pennsylvania_, which stands on the Monongahela, near
Grant's Hill;--the _Penitentiary_, in Alleghany town, which has cost the
State an immense amount, and is conducted on the principle of solitary
confinement;--the _Presbyterian Theological Seminary_ is also in
Alleghany town;--the _Museum_;--the _United States Arsenal_, about two
miles above the city, at Lawrenceville. It encloses four acres, and has
a large depot for ordnance, arms, &c. The _City Water Works_ is a
splendid monument of municipal enterprise. The water is taken from the
Alleghany river, by a pipe, 15 inches in diameter, and carried 2,439
feet, and 116 feet elevation, to a reservoir on Grant's Hill, capable of
receiving 1,000,000 gallons. The water is raised by a steam-engine of 84
horse power, and will raise 1,500,000 gallons in 24 hours. The aqueduct
of the Pennsylvania canal, across the Alleghany river, is also deserving
attention.
The inhabitants of Pittsburg are a mixture of English, French, Scotch,
Irish, German and Swiss artisans and mechanics, as well as of native
born Americans, who live together in much harmony. Industry, sobriety,
morality and good order generally prevail. Extensive revivals of
religion prevailed here about a year since.
The population of Western Pennsylvania is characterized for industry,
frugality, economy and enterprise. Temperance principles have made
considerable progress of late years.
WESTERN VIRGINIA
--Embraces all that part of Virginia that lies upon the western waters.
The counties are Brooke, Ohio, Monongalia, Harrison, Randolph, Russell,
Preston, Tyler, Wood, Greenbrier, Kenawha,[9] Mason, Lewis, Nicholas,
Logan, Cabell, Monroe, Pocahontas, Giles, Montgomery, Wythe, Grayson,
Tazewell, Washington, Scott and Lee:--26.
Its principal river is the Kenawha and its tributaries. Of these, Gaula,
New river and Greenbrier are the principal. New river is the largest,
and rises in North Carolina. The Monongahela drains a large
district;--the little Kenawha, Guyandotte, and Sandy are smaller
streams. The latter separates Virginia from Kentucky for some distance.
Much of Western Virginia is mountainous, lying in parallel ridges, which
are often broken by streams. Some of the vallies are very fertile. The
Kenawha Valley is narrow, but extends to a great distance. The salt
manufactories extend from Charlestown up the Kenawha, the distance of 12
miles. They are 20 in number, and manufacture nearly two millions of
bushels annually. The river is navigable for steamboats to this point at
an ordinary depth of water. Coal is used in the manufactories, which is
dug from the adjacent mountains, and brought to the works on wooden
railways. Seven miles above Charlestown is the famous burning spring.
Inflammable gas escapes, which, if ignited, will burn with great
brilliancy for many hours, and even for several days, in a favorable
state of the atmosphere. The State of Virginia has constructed a
tolerably good turnpike road from the mouth of the Guyandotte, on the
Ohio, to Staunton. It passes through Charlestown, and along the Kenawha
river to the falls;--from thence it extends along the course of New
river, and across Sewall's mountain by Louisburg to Staunton. The falls
of Kenawha are in a romantic region, and merit the attention of the
traveller. Marshall's pillar is a singular projecting rock that
overhangs New river, 1015 feet above its bed. The stage road passes near
its summit.
This route is one of the great stage routes leading from the Ohio Valley
to Washington city, and to all parts of old Virginia.
The _White Sulphur_, _Red Sulphur_, _Hot_, _Warm_, _and Sweet Springs_,
are in the mountainous parts of Virginia, and on this route. These are
all celebrated as watering places, but the White Sulphur spring is the
great resort of the fashionable of the Southern States. Let the reader
imagine an extensive campground, a mile in circumference, the camps neat
cottages, built of brick, or framed, and neatly painted. In the centre
of this area are the springs, bath-houses, dining hall, and mansion of
the proprietor. The cottages are intended for the accommodation of
families, and contain two rooms each. This is by far the most extensive
watering place in the Union. Of the effect of such establishments on
_morals_ I shall say nothing. The reader will draw his own conclusions,
when he understands that the card-table, roulette, wheel of fortune, and
dice-box are amongst its principal amusements. Here, not unfrequently,
cotton bales, negroes, and even plantations, change owners in a night.
The scenery around is highly picturesque and romantic. Declivities and
mountains, sprinkled over with evergreens, are scattered in wild
confusion. A few miles from White Sulphur springs, you pass the dividing
line--the Alleghany ridge, and pass from Western into Middle Virginia.
_Chief Towns._--Wheeling is the principal commercial town, and a great
thoroughfare, in Western Virginia. It has a large number of stores, and
commission warehouses; and contains six or eight thousand inhabitants.
It is 92 miles by water, and 55 miles by land, from Pittsburg. It has
manufactures of cotton, glass, and earthenware. Boats are built here.
The Cumberland or National road crosses the Ohio at this place, over
which a bridge is about to be erected. The town is surrounded with bold,
precipitous hills, which contain inexhaustible quantities of coal. At
extreme low water, steamboats ascend no higher than Wheeling.
Charlestown, Wellsburgh, Parkersburgh, Point Pleasant, Clarksburgh,
Abington, Louisburg, and many others, are pleasant and thriving towns.
The climate of Western Virginia is preeminently salubrious. The people,
in their manners, have considerable resemblance to those of Western
Pennsylvania. There are fewer slaves, less wealth, more industry and
equality, than in the "Old Dominion," as Eastern Virginia is sometimes
called.
FOOTNOTES:
[8] See "Mitchell's Compendium of the Internal Improvements in the
United States," where much valuable information of the rail-roads and
canals of the United States is found in a small space.
[9] I have adopted the orthography of the legislature.