CHAPTER IV.

CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND PURSUITS OF THE PEOPLE.

Cotton and Sugar Planters;--Farmers;--Population of the large towns and

cities;--Frontier class;--Hunters and Trappers;--Boatmen.

There is great diversity in the character and habits of the population

of the Valley of the Mississippi.

Those who have emigrated from the Atlantic states, as have a very large

proportion of those persons who were not born in the Valley, of course

do not differ essentially from the remaining population of those states.

Some slight shades of difference are perceptible in such persons as have

lived long enough in the country to become assimilated to the habits,

and partake of the feelings, of western people.

Emigrants from Europe have brought the peculiarities of the nations and

countries from whence they have originated, but are fast losing their

national manners, and feelings, and, to use a provincial term, will soon

become "westernized."

The march of emigration from the Atlantic border has been nearly in a

line due west. Tennessee was settled by Carolinians, and Kentucky by

Virginians. Ohio received the basis of its population from the states in

the same parallel, and hence partakes of all the varieties from Maryland

to New England. Michigan is substantially a child of New York. The

planters of the south have gone to Mississippi, Louisiana, and the

southern part of Arkansas. Kentucky and Tennessee have spread their sons

and daughters over Indiana, Illinois and Missouri; but the two former

states are now receiving great numbers of emigrants from all the

northern states, including Ohio, and multitudes from the south, who

desire to remove beyond the boundaries and influence of a slave

population.

Slavery in the west, keeps nearly in the same parallels as it holds in

the east, and is receding south, as it does on the Atlantic coast. Many

descendants of the Scotch, Irish and Germans, have come into the

frontier states from Western Pennsylvania.

We have European emigrants from Great Britain and Ireland. Those of the

latter are more generally found about our large towns and cities, and

along the lines of canalling.

The French were the explorers and early settlers of the Valley

immediately bordering on the Mississippi, 150 years since. They formed

the basis of population of Louisiana a few years since, but are

relatively diminishing before the emigration from other states of the

Union. Their descendants show many of the peculiar and distinctive

traits of that people in all countries. They possess mild vivacity, and

gaiety, and are distinguished for their quiet, inoffensive, domestic,

frugal, and unenterprising spirit and manners. The poorer class of

French are rather peculiar and unique. Their ancestors were isolated

from the rest of the world, had no object of excitement or ambition,

cared little for wealth, or the accumulation of property, and were

accustomed to hunt, make voyages in their canoes, smoke and traffic with

the Indians. But few of them knew how to read and write. Accustomed from

infancy to the life of huntsmen, trappers and boatmen, they make but

indifferent farmers. They are contented to live in the same rude, but

neatly whitewashed cabin, cultivate the same cornfields in the same

mode, and drive the same rudely constructed horse cart their fathers

did. In the neatness of their gardens, which are usually cultivated by

the females, they excel the Americans. They are the _coureurs du bois_

of the West.

The European Germans are now coming into the Valley by thousands, and,

for a time, will retain their manners and language.

_Cotton and Sugar Planters._--These people, found chiefly in

Mississippi, Louisiana, and the southern part of Arkansas, have a great

degree of similarity. They are noted for their high-mindedness,

generosity, liberality, hospitality, sociability, quick sense of honor,

resentment of injuries, indolence, and, in too many cases, dissipation.

They are much addicted to the sports of the turf and the vices of the

gaming table. Still there are many planters of strictly moral, and even

religious habits. They are excessively jealous of their political

rights, yet frank and open hearted in their dispositions, and carry the

duties of hospitality to a great extent. Having overseers on most of

their plantations, the labor being performed by slaves, they have much

leisure, and are averse to much personal attention to business. They

dislike care, profound thinking and deep impressions. The young men are

volatile, gay, dashing and reckless spirits, fond of excitement and high

life. There is a fatal propensity amongst the southern planters to

decide quarrels, and even trivial disputes by duels. But there are also

many amiable and noble traits of character amongst this class; and if

the principles of the Bible and religion could be brought to exert a

controlling influence, there would be a noble spirited race of people in

the southwestern states.

It cannot be expected that I should pass in entire silence the system of

slaveholding in the lower Valley, or its influence on the manners and

habits of the people. This state of society seems unavoidable at

present, though I have no idea or expectation it will be perpetual.

Opposite sentiments and feelings are spreading over the whole earth, and

a person must have been a very inattentive observer of the tendencies

and effects of the diffusion of liberal principles not to perceive that

hereditary, domestic servitude must have an end.

This is a subject, however, that from our civil compact, belongs

exclusively to the citizens of the states concerned; and if not

unreasonably annoyed, the farming slaveholding states, as Kentucky,

Tennessee and Missouri, will soon provide for its eventual termination.

Doubtless, in the cotton and sugar growing states it will retain its

hold with more tenacity, but the influence of free principles will roll

onward until the evil is annihilated.

The barbarous and unwise regulations in some of the planting states,

_which prohibit the slaves from being taught to read_, are a serious

impediment to the moral and religious instruction of that numerous and

unfortunate class. Such laws display on the part of the law makers,

little knowledge of human nature and the real tendency of things. To

keep _slaves_ entirely ignorant of the rights of man, in this

spirit-stirring age, is utterly impossible. Seek out the remotest and

darkest corner of Louisiana, and plant every guard that is possible

around the negro quarters, and the light of truth will penetrate. Slaves

will find out, for they already know it, that they possess rights as

men. And here is the fatal mistake now committed in the southern

slaveholding states--legislating against the instruction of their

slaves--to keep them from knowing their rights. They will obtain some

loose, vague, and undefined notion of the doctrine of human rights, and

the unrighteousness of oppression in this republican country. Being

kept from all the moral and religious instruction which Sabbath schools,

the Bible, and other good books are calculated to impart, and with those

undefined notions of liberty, and without any moral principle, they are

prepared to enter into the first insurrectionary movement proposed by

some artful and talented leader. The same notion prevailed in the West

Indies half a century since, and many of the planters resisted and

persecuted the benevolent Moravians, who went there to instruct the

blacks in the principles and duties of religion. A few of the planters

reasoned justly. They invited these benevolent men on their plantations,

and gave them full liberty on the Sabbath, and at other suitable

seasons, to instruct their slaves. The happiest effects followed. On

these plantations, where riot, misrule, and threatened insurrections,

had once spread a panic through the colony, order, quietness and

submission followed. Such would be the effects if the southern planter

would invite the minister of the gospel and the Sunday school teacher to

visit his plantation, allow his slaves to be instructed to read, and

each to be furnished with a copy of the Scriptures. The southern planter

hourly lives under the most terrific apprehensions. It is in vain to

disguise the fact. As Mr. Randolph once significantly said in Congress,

"_when the night bell rings, the mother hugs her infant closer to her

breast_." Slavery, under any circumstances, is a bitter draught--equally

bitter to him who tenders the cup, and to him who drinks it. But in all

the northern slaveholding states, it is comparatively mild. Its condition

would be much alleviated, and the planter might sleep securely if he would

abolish his barbarous laws, more congenial with Asiatic despotism than

American republicanism, and provide for his slaves the benefits of

wholesome instruction. Philanthropy and interest unite in their demands

upon every southern planter to provide Sunday school instruction for his

slaves.

The planting region of the lower Valley furnishes an immense market for

the productions and manufactures of the upper Valley. Indirectly, the

Louisiana sugar business is a source of profit to the farmer of Illinois

and Missouri. Pork, beef, corn, corn-meal, flour, potatoes, butter, hay,

&c. in vast quantities, go to supply these plantations. In laying in

their stores, the sugar planters usually purchase one barrel of second

or third quality of beef or pork per annum, for each laborer. Large

drafts for sugar mills, engines and boilers, are made upon the

Cincinnati and Pittsburg iron foundries. Mules and horses are driven

from the upper country, or from the Mexican dominions, to keep up the

supply.

The commerce of the upper country that concentrates at New Orleans is

amazing, and every year is rapidly increasing. Sixteen hundred arrivals

of steamboats took place in 1832, and the estimated number in 1835 is

2,300.

_Farmers._--In the northern half of the Valley the productions, and the

modes of cultivation and living are such as to characterize a large

proportion of the population as farmers. No country on earth has such

facilities for agriculture. The soil is abundantly fertile, the seasons

ordinarily favorable to the growth and maturity of crops, and every

farmer in a few years, with reasonable industry, becomes comparatively

independent. Tobacco and hemp are among the staple productions of

Kentucky.

Neat cattle, horses, mules and swine are its stock. Some stock growers

have monopolized the smaller farms till they are surrounded with several

thousand acres. Blue grass pastures furnish summer feed, and extensive

fields of corn, cut up near the ground, and stacked in the fields,

furnish stores for fattening stock in the winter.

In some counties, raising of stock has taken place of all other

business. The Scioto Valley, and other districts in Ohio, are famous for

fine, well fed beef. Thousands of young cattle are purchased by the Ohio

graziers, at the close of winter, of the farmers of Illinois and

Missouri. The Miami and Whitewater sections of Ohio and Indiana, abound

with swine. Cincinnati has been the great pork mart of the world.

150,000 head of hogs have been frequently slaughtered there in a season.

About 75,000 is estimated to be the number slaughtered at that place the

present season. This apparent falling off in the pork business, at

Cincinnati, is accounted for by the vast increase of business at other

places. Since the opening of the canals in Ohio, many provision

establishments have been made along their line. Much business of the

kind is now done at Terre Haute and other towns on the Wabash,--at

Madison, Louisville, and other towns on the Ohio,--at Alton and other

places in Illinois.

The farmers of the West are independent in feeling, plain in dress,

simple in manners, frank and hospitable in their dwellings, and soon

acquire a competency by moderate labor. Those from Kentucky, Tennessee,

or other states south of the Ohio river, have large fields, well

cultivated, and enclosed with strong built rail or worm fences, but they

often neglect to provide spacious barns and other outhouses for their

grain, hay and stock. The influence of habit, is powerful. A Kentuckian

would look with contempt upon the low fences of a New-Englander as

indicating thriftless habits, while the latter would point at the

unsheltered stacks of wheat, and dirty threshing floor of the former, as

proof direct of bad economy and wastefulness.

_Population of the Cities and large Towns._ The population of western

towns does not differ essentially from the same class in the Atlantic

states, excepting there is much less division into grades and ranks,

less ignorance, low depravity and squalid poverty amongst the poor, and

less aristocratic feeling amongst the rich. As there is never any lack

of employment for laborers of every description, there is comparatively

no suffering from that cause. And the hospitable habits of the people

provide for the sick, infirm and helpless. Doubtless, our

_circumstances_ more than any thing else, cause these shades of

difference. The common mechanic is on a social equality with the

merchant, the lawyer, the physician, and the minister. They have shared

in the same fatigues and privations, partook of the same homely fare, in

many instances have fought side by side in defence of their homes

against the inroads of savages,--are frequently elected to the same

posts of honor, and have accumulated property simultaneously. Many

mechanics in the western cities and towns, are the owners of their own

dwellings, and of other buildings, which they rent. I have known many a

wealthy merchant, or professional gentleman occupy on rent, a building

worth several thousand dollars, the property of some industrious

mechanic, who, but a few years previous, was an apprentice lad, or

worked at his trade as a journeyman. Any sober, industrious mechanic can

place himself in affluent circumstances, and place his children on an

equality with the children of the commercial and professional community,

by migrating to any of our new and rising western towns. They will find

no occasion here for combinations to sustain their interests, nor meet

with annoyance from gangs of unprincipled foreigners, under the

imposing names of "Trades Unions."

Manufactures of various kinds are carried on in our western cities.

Pittsburg has been characterized as the "Birmingham of America." The

manufactures of iron, machinery and glass, and the building of

steamboats, are carried on to a great extent.

Iron and salt, are made in great quantities in Western Pennsylvania, and

Western Virginia. Steamboats are built to a considerable extent at

Fulton, two miles above Cincinnati, and occasionally at many other

places on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Alton offers great facilities

for this business. Cotton bagging, bale ropes, and cordage, are

manufactured in Tennessee and Kentucky. The following article from the

Covington Enquirer, gives a few items of the industry and enterprise of

Kentucky,--of the manufacture of Newport and Covington. Both of these

thriving towns lie at the mouth of the Licking river, the one on the

right bank, and the other on the left, and both in direct view of

Cincinnati.

MANUFACTURES IN COVINGTON AND NEWPORT.

"Founding the calculation upon the actual manufactures of October, and

the known power of their machinery, the Company will the ensuing year,

give employment to more than four hundred operatives, and manufacture,

60,000 lbs. of Cotton Bagging,

84,000 do Cotton Yarns,

274,268 lbs. Bale Rope,

448,000 do Cordage,

44,592 yards Linseys,

63,588 do Cotton Plains,

97,344 do Kentucky Jeans,

548,530 do Cotton Bagging and Hemp.

Estimating Bale Rope and Cotton Bagging at 33 per cent under the price

at which the Company have sold these articles for the last six months,

the manufactures of this Company during the ensuing year will amount to

$358,548.44. Almost all the manufactures at Covington and Newport being

exported to foreign markets, it will result that the annual exports from

these points will, in round numbers, be from the

Interior $750,000

Campbell County 150,000

Boone County 234,000

Covington 548,500

Newport 358,500

----------

$2,041,000

The Newport Manufacturing Company has depended principally for its

supply of Hemp, on the production of Mason county, of which Maysville is

the market;--this season they have not been able to get a supply at

Maysville, and it is a remarkable fact in the history of the Hemp

manufactories in Kentucky, that this company, owing to the scarcity and

high prices of Hemp in Kentucky, _has imported this season_ 354,201 lbs.

_Russia Hemp_.

Various manufactures are springing up in all the new states, which will

be noticed under their proper heads.

The number of merchants and traders is very great in the Valley of the

Mississippi, yet mercantile business is rapidly increasing.--Thousands

of the farmers of the West, are partial traders. They take their own

produce, in their own flat boats, down the rivers to the market of the

lower country.

_Frontier class of Population._ The rough, sturdy habits of the

backwoodsmen, living in that plenty which depends on God and nature,

have laid the foundation of independent thought and feeling deep in the

minds of western people.

Generally, in all the western settlements, three classes, like the waves

of the ocean, have rolled one after the other. First comes the Pioneer,

who depends for the subsistence of his family chiefly upon the natural

growth of vegetation, called the "range," and the proceeds of hunting.

His implements of agriculture are rude, chiefly of his own make, and his

efforts directed mainly to a crop of corn, and a "truck patch." The last

is a rude garden for growing cabbage, beans, corn for roasting ears,

cucumbers and potatoes. A log cabin, and occasionally a stable and corn

crib, and a field of a dozen acres, the timber girdled or "deadened,"

and fenced, are enough for his occupancy. It is quite immaterial whether

he ever becomes the owner of the soil. He is the occupant for the time

being, pays no rent, and feels as independent as the "lord of the

manor." With a horse, cow, and one or two breeders of swine, he strikes

into the woods with his family, and becomes the founder of a new county,

or perhaps state. He builds his cabin, gathers around him a few other

families of similar taste and habits, and occupies till the range is

somewhat subdued, and hunting a little precarious, or, which is more

frequently the case, till neighbors crowd around, roads, bridges and

fields annoy him, and he lacks elbow-room. The pre-emption law enables

him to dispose of his cabin and cornfield, to the next class of

emigrants, and, to employ his own figures, he "breaks for the high

timber,"--"clears out for the New Purchase," or migrates to Arkansas or

Texas, to work the same process over.

The next class of emigrants purchase the lands, add "field to field,"

clear out the roads, throw rough bridges over the streams, put up hewn

log houses, with glass windows, and brick or stone chimneys,

occasionally plant orchards, build mills, school houses, court houses,

&c., and exhibit the picture and forms of plain, frugal, civilized life.

Another wave rolls on. The men of capital and enterprise come. The

"settler" is ready to sell out, and take the advantage of the rise of

property,--push farther into the interior, and become himself, a man of

capital and enterprise in time. The small village rises to a spacious

town or city,--substantial edifices of brick, extensive fields,

orchards, gardens--colleges and churches are seen. Broadcloths, silks,

leghorns, crapes, and all the refinements, luxuries, elegancies,

frivolities and fashions, are in vogue. Thus wave after wave is rolling

westward--the real _el dorado_ is still farther on.

A portion of the two first classes remain stationary amidst the general

movement, improve their habits and condition, and rise in the scale of

society.

The writer has travelled much amongst the first class--the real

pioneers. He has lived many years in connexion with the second grade,

and now the third wave is sweeping over large districts of Indiana,

Illinois and Missouri. Migration has become almost a habit in the west.

Hundreds of men can be found, not fifty years of age, who have settled

for the fourth, fifth, or sixth time on a new spot. To sell out and

remove only a few hundred miles, makes up a portion of the variety of

backwoods life and manners.

But to return to the Frontier class.

1. _Dress._--The hunting shirt is universally worn. This is a kind of

loose, open frock, reaching halfway down the thighs, with large sleeves,

the body open in front, lapped over, and belted with a leathern girdle,

held together with a buckle. The cape is large, and usually fringed with

different colored cloth from that of the body. The bosom of this dress

sometimes serves as a wallet for a "chunk" of bread, jerk or smoke-dried

venison, and other articles. It is made either of dressed deer skins,

linsey, coarse linen, or cotton. The shirt, waistcoat and pantaloons are

of similar articles and of the customary form. Wrappers of cloth or

dressed skins, called "leggins" are tied round the legs when travelling.

Moccasins of deer skins, shoe packs, and rough shoes, the leather tanned

and cobbled by the owner, are worn on the feet.

The females' dress in a coarse gown of cotton, a bonnet of the same

stuff, and denominated in the eastern states a "sun-bonnet." The latter

is constantly worn through the day, especially when company is present.

The clothing for both sexes is made at home. The wheel and loom are

common articles of furniture in every cabin.

2. _Dwellings._--"Cabin" is the name for a plain, rough log-house,

throughout the west. The spot being selected, usually in the timbered

land, and near some spring, the first operation of the newly arrived

emigrant is to cut about 40 logs of the proper size and length for a

single cabin, or twice that number for a double one, and haul them to

the spot. A large oak or other suitable timber, of straight grain, and

free from limbs, is selected for clapboards for the roof. These are four

feet in length, split with a froe six or eight inches wide, and half an

inch thick. _Puncheons_ are used for the floor. These are made by

splitting trees about eighteen inches in diameter into slabs, two or

three inches in thickness, and hewn on the upper surface. The door way

is made by cutting out the logs after raising, of a suitable width, and

putting upright pieces of timber at the sides. The shutter is made of

clapboards, pinned on cross pieces, hung by wooden hinges, and fastened

by a wooden latch. A similar aperture, but is wider made at one end for

the chimney. The men of the settlement, when notified, collect and raise

the building. Four stout men with axes are placed on the corners to

notch the logs together, while the rest of the company lift them up.

After the roof is on the body of the building, it is slightly hewed down

both out and inside. The roof is formed by shortening each end log in

succession till one log forms the comb of the roof. The clapboards are

put on so as to cover all cracks, and held down by poles or small logs.

The chimney is built of sticks of wood, the largest at the bottom, and

the smallest at the top, and laid up with a supply of mud or clay

mortar. The interstices between the logs are chinked with strips of wood

and daubed with mortar both outside and in. A double cabin consists of

two such buildings with a space of 10 or 12 feet between, over which the

roof extends.

A _log house_, in western parlance, differs from a cabin in the logs

being hewn on two sides to an equal thickness before raising,--in having

a framed and shingled roof, a brick or stone chimney, windows, tight

floors, and are frequently clapboarded on the outside and plastered

within.

A log house thus finished, costs more than a framed one. Cabins are

often the temporary dwellings of opulent and highly respectable

families.

The axe, auger, froe, drawing knife, broad-axe, and crosscut saw are the

only tools required in constructing these rude edifices;--sometimes the

axe and auger only are employed. Not a nail or pane of glass is needed.

Cabins are by no means as wretched for residences as their name imports.

They are often roomy, comfortable and neat. If one is not sufficient to

accommodate the family, another is added, and another until sufficient

room is obtained.

3. _Furniture and mode of living._--The genuine backwoodsman makes

himself and family comfortable and contented where those, unaccustomed

to his mode of life, would live in unavailing regret, or make a thousand

awkward apologies on the visit of a neighbor or traveller. A table is

made of a split slab and supported by four round legs. Clapboards

supported by pins stuck in the logs answer for shelves for table

furniture. The bedstead is often made in the corner of the room by

sticks placed in the logs, supported at the outward corner by a post, on

which clapboards are laid, the ends of which enter the wall between the

logs, and which support the bedding. On the arrival of travellers or

visiters, the bed clothing is shared with them, being spread on the

puncheon floor that the feet may project towards the fire. Many a night

has the writer passed in this manner, after a fatiguing day's ride, and

reposed more comfortably than on a bed of down in a spacious mansion.

All the family of both sexes, with all the strangers who arrive, often

lodge in the same room. In that case the under garments are never taken

off, and no consciousness of impropriety or indelicacy of feeling is

manifested. A few pins stuck in the wall of the cabin display the

dresses of the women and the hunting shirts of the men. Two small forks

or bucks-horns fastened to a joist are indispensable articles for the

support of the rifle. A loose floor of clapboards, and supported by

round poles, is thrown over head for a loft which furnishes a place to

throw any articles not immediately wanted, and is frequently used for a

lodging place for the younger branches of the family. A ladder planted

in the corner behind the door answers the purpose of stairs.

The necessary table and kitchen furniture are a few pewter dishes and

spoons, knives and forks, (for which however, the common hunting knife

is often a substitute,) tin cups for coffee or milk, a water pail and a

small gourd or calabash for water, with a pot and iron Dutch oven,

constitute the chief articles. Add to these a tray for wetting up meal

for corn bread, a coffee pot and set of cups and saucers, a set of

common plates, and the cabin is furnished. The hominy mortar and hand

mill are in use in all frontier settlements. The first consists of a

block of wood with an excavation burned at one end and scraped out with

an iron tool, wide at top and narrow at the bottom that the action of

the pestle may operate to the best advantage. Sometimes a stump of a

large tree is excavated while in its natural position. An elastic pole,

20 or 30 feet in length, with the large end fastened under the ground

log of the cabin, and the other elevated 10 or 15 feet and supported by

two forks, to which a pestle 5 or 6 inches in diameter and 8 or 10 feet

long is fixed on the elevated end by a large mortice, and a pin put

through its lower end so that two persons can work it in conjunction.

This is much used for pounding corn. A very simple instrument to answer

the same purpose, is a circular piece of tin, perforated, and attached

to a piece of wood like a grater, on which the ears of corn are rubbed

for meal. The hand mill is in the same form as that used in Judea in the

time of our Savior. Two circular stones, about 18 inches in diameter

constructed like ordinary mill stones, with a staff let into the runner

or upper stone near its outer edge, with the upper end inserted in a

joist or board over head, and turned by the hands of two persons while

one feeds it with corn. Horse mills follow the mortar and hand mill in

the scale of improvement. They are constructed variously. A _hand_ mill

is the most simple. A large upright post is placed on a gudgeon, with

shafts extending horizontally 15 or 20 feet. Around the ends of these is

a band of raw hide twisted, which passes around the trundle head and

turns the spindle and communicates motion to the stone. A _cog_ mill is

formed by constructing a rim with cogs upon the shafts, and a trundle

head to correspond. Each person furnishes his own horses to turn the

mill, performs his own grinding, and pays toll to the owner for use of

the mill. Mills with the wheel on an inclined plane, and carried by oxen

standing on the wheel, are much in use in those sections where water

power is not convenient, but these indicate an advance to the second

grade of society.

Instead of bolting cloths, the frontier people use a sieve or as called

here, a "search." This is made from a deer skin prepared to resemble

parchment, stretched on a hoop and perforated full of holes with a hot

wire.

Every backwoodsman carries on all occasions, the means of furnishing his

meat. The rifle, bullet pouch and horn, hunting knife, horse and dog are

his constant companions when from home, and woe be to the wolf, bear,

deer or turkey that comes within one hundred and fifty yards of his

trail.

With the first emigration there are few mechanics; hence every settler

becomes expert in supplying his own necessaries. Besides clearing land,

building cabins, and making fences, he stocks his own plough, repairs

his wagon and his harness, tans his own leather, makes his shoes,

tables, bedsteads, stools or seats, trays and a hundred other articles.

These may be rudely constructed, but they answer his purpose very well.

The following extracts from the graphic "SKETCHES OF THE WEST,"

by James Hall, Esq. completes this extended picture of backwoods

manners.

"The traveller, accustomed to different modes of life, is struck with

the rude and uncomfortable appearance of every thing about this

people,--the rudeness of their habitations, the carelessness of their

agriculture, the unsightly coarseness of all their implements and

furniture, the unambitious homeliness of all their goods and chattels,

except the axe, the rifle, and the horse--these being invariably the

best and handsomest which their means enable them to procure. But he is

mistaken in supposing them indolent or improvident; and is little aware

how much ingenuity and toil have been exerted in procuring the few

comforts which they possess, in a country without arts, mechanics,

money, or commercial intercourse.

"The backwoodsman has many substantial enjoyments. After the fatigue of

his journey, and a short season of privation and danger, he finds

himself surrounded with plenty. His cattle, hogs, and poultry, supply

his table with meat; the forest abounds in game; the fertile soil yields

abundant crops; he has, of course, bread, milk, and butter; the rivers

furnish fish, and the woods honey. For these various articles, there is,

at first, no market, and the farmer acquires the generous habit of

spreading them profusely on his table, and giving them freely to a

hungry traveller and an indigent neighbor.

"Hospitality and kindness are among the virtues of the first settlers.

Exposed to common dangers and toils, they become united by the closest

ties of social intercourse. Accustomed to arm in each other's defence,

to aid in each other's labor, to assist in the affectionate duty of

nursing the sick, and the mournful office of burying the dead, the best

affections of the heart are kept in constant exercise; and there is,

perhaps, no class of men in our country, who obey the calls of

benevolence, with such cheerful promptness, or with so liberal a

sacrifice of personal convenience.

"We read marvellous stories of the ferocity of western men. The name of

Kentuckian is constantly associated with the idea of fighting, dirking,

and gouging. The people of whom we are now writing do not deserve this

character. They live together in great harmony, with little contention

and less litigation. The backwoodsmen are a generous and placable race.

They are bold and impetuous; and when differences do arise among them,

they are more apt to give vent to their resentment at once, than to

brood over their wrongs, or to seek legal redress. But this conduct is

productive of harmony; for men are always more guarded in their

deportment to each other, and more cautious of giving offence, when they

know that the insult will be quickly felt, and instantly resented, than

when the consequences of an offensive action are doubtful, and the

retaliation distant. We have no evidence that the pioneers of Kentucky

were quarrelsome or cruel; and an intimate acquaintance with the same

race, at a later period, has led the writer to the conclusion, that they

are a humane people; bold and daring, when opposed to an enemy, but

amiable in their intercourse with each other and with strangers, and

habitually inclined to peace."

In morals and the essential principles of religion, this class of people

are by no means so defective as many imagine. The writer has repeatedly

been in settlements and districts beyond the pale of civil and criminal

law, where the people are a "law unto themselves," where courts,

lawyers, sheriffs, and constables existed not, and yet has seen as much

quiet and order, and more honesty in paying just debts, than where legal

restraints operated in all their force. The turpitude of vice and the

majesty of virtue, were as apparent as in older settlements. Industry,

in laboring or hunting, bravery in war, candor, honesty, and hospitality

were rewarded with the confidence and honor of the people. Regulating

parties would exist, and thieves, rogues and counterfeiters were sure to

receive a striped Jacket "worked nineteen to the dozen," and by this

mode of operation, induced to "clear out;" but truth, uprightness,

honesty and sincerity are always respected. Many of the frontier class

are _illiterate_, but they are by no means _ignorant_. They are a

shrewd, observing, thinking people. They may not have learned the black

marks in books, but they have studied _men and things_, and have a quick

insight into human nature. They are not inattentive to religion, though

their opportunities of religious instruction are few, compared with old

countries. They have prejudices and fears about many of the organized

benevolent societies of the present age, yet there are no people more

readily disposed to attend religious meetings, and whose hearts are more

readily affected with the gospel than the backwoods people; and as large

a proportion are orderly professors of religion as in any part of the

Union. Ministers of the gospel and Missionaries, who can suit themselves

to the circumstances and habits of frontier people,--who like Paul, can

"become all things to all men,"--find pleasant and interesting fields of

labor on all our frontiers. But let such persons show fastidiousness,

affect superior intelligence and virtue, catechise the people for their

plainness and simplicity of manners, and draw invidious comparisons, and

they are sure to be "used up," or left without hearers, to deplore the

"dark clouds" of ignorance and prejudice in the west.

_Hunters and Trappers._ Entirely beyond the boundaries of civilization

are many hundreds of a unique class, distinguished by the terms Hunters

and Trappers. They are engaged in hunting buffalo and other wild game,

and trapping for beaver. They are found upon the vast prairies of the

West and Northwest,--in all the defiles and along the streams of the

Rocky mountains, and in various parts of the Oregon Territory, to the

peninsula of California. They are an enterprising and erratic race from

almost every state, and are usually in the employ of persons of capital

and enterprise, and who are concerned in the fur and peltry business.

Expeditions for one, two, or three years, are fitted out from St. Louis,

or some commercial point, consisting of companies, who ascend the rivers

to the regions of fur. The hunters and trappers, receive a proportion of

the profits of the expedition. Some become so enamored with this

wandering and exposed life as to lose all desire of returning to the

abodes of civilization, and remain for the rest of their lives in the

American deserts. There are individuals, who are graduates of colleges,

and who once stood high in the circles of refinement and taste, that

have passed more than twenty years amongst the roaming tribes of the

Rocky mountains, or on the western slope, till they have apparently lost

all feelings towards civilized life. They have afforded an interesting

but melancholy example of the tendencies of human nature towards the

degraded state of savages. The improvement of the species is a slow and

laborious process,--the deterioration is rapid, and requires only to be

divested of restraint, and left to its own unaided tendencies. Many

others have returned to the habits of civilization, and some with

fortunes made from the woods and prairies.

_Boatmen._ These are the fresh water sailors of the West, with much of

the light hearted, reckless character of the sons of the Ocean,

including peculiar shades of their own. Before the introduction of

Steamboats on the western waters, its immense commerce was carried on by

means of _keel boats_, and _barges_. The former is much in the shape of

a canal boat, long, slim-built, sharp at each end, and propelled by

setting poles and the cordelle or long rope. The barge is longer, and

has a bow and stern. Both are calculated to ascend streams but by a very

slow process. Each boat would require from ten to thirty hands,

according to its size. A number of these boats frequently sailed in

company. The boatmen were proverbially lawless at every town and

landing, and indulged without restraint in every species of dissipation,

debauchery and excess. But this race has become reformed, or nearly

extinct;--yes, reformed by the mighty power of steam. A steamboat, with

half the crew of a barge or keel, will carry ten times the burden, and

perform six or eight trips in the time it took a keel boat to make one

voyage. Thousands of flat boats, or "broad horns," as they are called,

pass _down_ the rivers with the produce of the country, which are

managed by the farmers of the West, but never return up stream. They

are sold for lumber, and the owners, after disposing of the cargo,

return by steam. The number of boatmen on the western waters is not only

greatly reduced, but those that remain are fast losing their original

character.

A New Guide for Emigrants to the West · 第 4 / 13 章