1494, the Macleods continued for a time to hold possession of
a considerable part of it. According to the traditions of the
district they had all to the east and south-east of the Crasg,
a hill situated on the west side of the churchyard of Gairloch,
between the present Free and Established Churches. At the east
end of the Big Sand, on a high and easily defended rock, stood
the last stronghold occupied by the Macleods in Gairloch - to this
day known as the "Dun" or Fort. The foundation is still easily
traced. It must have been a place of consider-able importance,
for it is over 200 feet in circumference. Various localities are
still pointed out in Gairloch where desperate skirmishes were
fought between the Macleods and the Mackenzies. Several of these
spots, where the slain were buried, look quite green to this day.
The "Fraoch Eilean," opposite Leac-na-Saighid, where a naval
engagement was fought, is a veritable cemetery of Macleods, ample
evidence of which is yet to be seen. Of this engagement, and of
those at Glasleoid, Lochan-an-Fheidh, Leac-na-Saighid, Kirkton,
and many others, thrilling accounts are still recited by a few
old men in the district; especially of the prowess of Domh'ull
Odhar Mac Ian Leith, and the other Kintail heroes who were
mainly instrumental in establishing the Mackenzies of Gairloch
permanently and in undisputed possession of their beautiful and
romantic inheritance.
John Glassich married Janet Agnes, daughter of James Fraser of
Phoineas, brother of Hugh, sixth Lord Lovat (with whom he got the
Barony of Inchlag, etc.), with issue -
1. Hector, his heir and successor.
2. Alexander, who succeeded his brother Hector.
3. John, who succeeded Alexander.
4. A daughter, who married John Mackenzie, II. of Loggie, with
issue.
John Glassich's widow married, secondly, Thomas Chisholm, XV. of
Chisholm, without issue male.
He had also two natural sons before his marriage, Alexander Roy
and Hector Caol.
Alexander Roy had a son John, who lived at Coirre Mhic Cromaill
in Torridon, and who had a son, the Rev. Murdoch Mackenzie,
Chaplain to Lord Reay's Regiment in the Bohemian and Swedish
service, under Gustavus Adolphus. He was afterwards minister of
Contin, Inverness, and Elgin, and subsequently Bishop of Moray
and of Orkney in succession. His family and descendants are
dealt with under a separate heading - MACKENZIES OF GROUNDWATER.
Hector Caol left a numerous tribe in Gairloch, still known as Clann
Eachainn Chaoil, and said to be distinguished by their long and
slender legs.
John Glassich, who was assassinated in 1550, as already stated,
at Ellandonnan Castle, was buried in the Priory of Beauly, and
succeeded by his eldest lawful son,
III. HECTOR MACKENZIE. He has a sasine, dated the 6th May, 1563,
[Gairloch Charter Chest,] in which he is described as "Achyne
Johannis MacAchyne," and bearing that the lands had been in non-entry
for 12 years, thus carrying back the date of his succession to 1551,
when the estate was given in ward to John, fourth of the Stewart
Earls of Athole. Hector died - probably killed, like his brother -
without issue, on the 3rd of September, 1566, and was buried at
Beauly, when he was succeeded by his next lawful brother,
ALEXANDER MACKENZIE, who has a retour, dated the 2nd of December,
1566, [Ing. Retour Reg., vol. i., fol. 22, and "Origines Parochiales
Scotiae,"] as heir to "Hector his brother-german," in the lands of
Gairloch, namely, "Gairloch, Kirktoun, Syldage, Hamgildail, Malefage,
Innerasfidill, Sandecorran, Cryf, Baddichro, Bein-Sanderis, Meall,
Allawdall, with the pasturage of Glaslettir and Cornagullan, in
the Earldom of Ross, of the old extent of L8;" but not to any of
the other lands which Hector Roy left to his descendants. Alexander
did not long possess the estates, for he died - to all appearance
assassinated - a few weeks after he succeeded, without making up
titles. It is, therefore, not thought necessary to count him as
one of the Barons of Gairloch.
It is probable that the brothers, Hector and Alexander, met with
the same violent death as their father and uncles, John Glassich,
John Tuach, and John Beg and by the same authors. This is according
to tradition, and an old MS., which says that their mother Agnes
Fraser fled with John Roy "to Lovat and her Fraser relatives,"
adds as to the fate of his brothers that "In those days many acts
of oppression were committed that could not be brought to fair
tryales befor the Legislator." "She was afterwards married to
Chisholm of Comar, and heired his family; here she kept him in
as concealed a manner as possible, and, as is reported, every
night under a brewing kettle, those who, through the barbarity
of the times, destroyed his father and uncles, being in search
of the son, and in possession of his all excepting his mother's
dower. He was afterwards concealed by the Lairds of Moydart
and of Farr, till he became a handsome man and could put on his
weapon, when he had the resolution to wait on Colin Cam Mackenzie,
Laird of Kintail, a most worthy gentleman, who established him
in all his lands, excepting those parts of the family estate for
which Hector and his successors had an undoubted right by writs."
Hector was succeeded by his next brother,
IV. JOHN ROY MACKENZIE, John Glassich's third son, who was at
the time a minor, although his father had been dead for 15 or 16
years; and the estate was given in ward by Queen Mary in 1567.
She "granted in heritage to John Bannerman of Cardeyne, the ward
of the lands and rents belonging to the deceased Hector Makkenych,
of Gairloch, with the relief of the same when it should occur
and the marriage of John Roy Makkenych, the brotherand apparent
heir of Hector." ["Origines Parochiales Scotiae" p. 406, and Reg.
Sec. Sig., vol. xxxvi. fol. 6.] In 1569, John, being then of
"lauchful age," is served and retoured heir to his brother-german,
Hector, in the lands of Gairloch [Ing. Retour Reg., vol. i.,
fol. 22, and "Origines Parochiales Scotiae."] as specified in the
service of 1566, passing over Alexander, no doubt because he
never made up titles. This retour of 1569 gives the date of
Hector's death as 30th September, 1566. In 1574 John has a sasine
which bears that the lands had been seven and a half years in
non-entry, taking it back to the date of Hector's death, three
months before the gift of the ward to John Bannerman. He, in the
same year, acquired half the lands of Ardnagrask from Lord Lovat,
partly in exchange for the rights he inherited in Phoineas from his
mother, and he is described by his Lordship in the disposition as
"the son, by her first husband, of his kinswoman Agnes Fraser."
From this it may be assumed that John Glassich's widow had during
her life made over her own rights to her son or that she had in the
meantime died.
It is found from the old inventory, already quoted, that there
was a charter of alienation by Hugh Fraser of Guisachan, dated the
29th of May, 1582, from which it appears that John Roy in 1574,
acquired Davochcairn and Davochpollo, in Strathpeffer, from this
Hugh Fraser, and that in the first-named year he obtained from
him also the lands of Kinkell-Clarsach and Pitlundie, in terms of
a contract of sale dated the 26th of January, 1581. The charter
is confirmed by James VI. in 1523. It appears from his daughter's
retour of service [Ing. Retours Reg., vol. viii., fol. 284b.] that
Gairloch's eldest son, John, died in 1601. He had been infeft
by his father in Davochpollo and Pitlundie, and married Isabel,
daughter of Alexander Mackenzie II. of Fairburn, by whom he had
a daughter, also named Isabel, who married Colin Mackenzie of
Strathgarve, brother to Kenneth, first Lord Mackenzie of Kintail,
and first of the Mackenzies of Kinnock and Pitlundie. Colin of
Strathgarve entered into a lawsuit with Alexander V. of Gairloch,
probably in connection with this marriage, "to cut him out of his
Low Country estate." ["Colin of Kinnock, who entered a lawsuit
against Alexander Mackenzie of Gairloch, meaning to cut him out
of his low country estates, and being powerfully supported by
Mackenzie of Fairburn and Mr John Mackenzie of Tolly, minister
of Dingwall, a plodding clergyman, kept him sixteen sessions at
Edinburgh; the last year of which Gairloch and his brother Kenneth
seeing Lord Kintail insulted by the Earl of Glencairn, who was
supported by most of those on the street, put on their armour and
came directly to his assistance, and rescuing him from imminent
danger brought him to their lodging. No sooner was the tumult
over than they embraced very cordially, and the whole matter in
debate was instantly taken away, aud Gairloch got a present of
600 merks to finish the Tower of Kinkell, of which his father
(John Roy) only built three storeys." - "Gairloch MS."] In 1657
she mortgaged Davochpollo and Pitlundie to her cousin, Kenneth VI.
of Gairloch; and her successor, John Mackenzie of Pitlundie,
completed the sale to him, which brought the property back again
to the Gairloch family. [Papers in the Gairloch Charter Chest.]
Under date of 11th August, 1587, the following complaint by James
Sinclair, Master of Caithness, and James Paxtoun, his servant,
against John Mackenzie of Gairloch appears in the Records of the
Privy Council - While they "were in a peaceable and quiet manner,"
in March last, in the Chanonry of Ross, within the house of
William Robson, the following persons, viz.: John Mackenzie of
Gairloch, Hector Mackenzie in Fairburn, Meikle John Mackenzie, his
son, Thomas MacThomais Mac Keanoch's son, Donald Macintagairt,
Mr John Mackenzie, son of Murdo Mackenzie of Fairburn, Mr Murdo
Mackenzie, parson of Lochcarron, Duncan Mackenzie, John Beg
Mackenzie's son, Duncan MacCulloch of Achanault, David Aytoun,
master stabler to Colin Mackenzie of Kintail, Finlay Roy, Stewart
to the said Colin, William Barbour, burgess in the Chanonry, with
convocation of the lieges, to the number of 300, "bodin in feir
of weir," and hounded on by the said John Mackenzie of Gairloch,
"had come to the said William Robson's house, wherein the said
complainers were, and had without any occasion of offence, assegeit
the said house and used all means and engines for apprehending of
the said James Sinclair and his said servant." Further, "seeing
they could not goodly recover the said house," they "cried for
fire, and had not failed most treasonably to have risen fire
within the same had not the said complainer delivered the said
James Paxton in their bands, whom they immediately conveyed and
led to the castle of Chanonry pertaining to the said Colin, and
kept and detained him captive therein for the space of two hours
or thereby." After such detention of the said James "they granted
liberty to him to pass home, and the better to cloak their cruel
and unmerciful decree, which openly they durst not put to execution,
they secretly hounded out a great number of cut-throats to have
beset the same James's way and to have bereft him of his life,
which they not failed to have done had not God otherwise prevented
their doings." Moreover, "at that same time they reft and took
away from the said complainers their horses, saddles, and other
gear worth five hundred merks." John Mackenzie of Gairloch,
master and landlord of the foresaid persons, having been charged
to appear personally and enter them this day "to have answered
and underlaid punishment for the premises," according to the
general band, but making no such appearance or entry, while the
complainers appear personally, the Lords order the said Mackenzie
of Gairloch to be denounced rebel.
In 1606 John Roy received a charter of resignation in favour of
himself in life-rent, and of his son, Alexander in fee, erecting
Gairloch into a free barony and in 1619 he obtained another charter,
[These charters are in the Gairloch Charter Chest.] under the Great
Seal, by which Kinkell is included in the barony and constituted
its chief messuage. He built the first three stories of the Tower
of Kinkell, "where his arms and those of his first wife are parted
per pale above the mantelpiece of the great hall." [Gairloch MS.]
The son of Roderick MacAllan "Nimhneach" of Gairloch, in the
absence of young MacGillechallum Garbh of Raasay, who, under the
care of the Laird of Calder escaped the massacre of Island Isay,
possessed himself of Raasay and took up his quarters in Castle
Brochail, the ancient residence of the Chiefs of Macleod, of which
the ruins are still to be seen on the east side of the island.
Seeing this, Donald Mac Neill, who previously sent young Macleod
of Raasay to the protection of Calder brought back the rightful
heir, and kept him, in private, until an opportunity occurred
by which he could obtain possession of the castle. This he soon
managed by coming to terms with the commander of the stronghold,
who preferred the native heir to his relative of the Gairloch
Macleods. It was arranged that when Mac Neill should arrive at the
castle with his charge, access should be given to young Raasay.
The commander kept his word, and MacGillechallum Garbh was soon
after proclaimed laird.
In 1610 a severe skirmish was fought at Lochan-an-Fheidh, in Glen
Torridon, between the Mackenzies - led by Alexander, since his
brother's death in 1601, the apparent heir of Gairloch - and the
Macleods under John MacAllan Mhic Rory, then the only surviving
direct male representative of Allan Macleod of Gairloch and grandson
probably of Rory Nimhneach. John Tolmach, John's uncle was also
present, but he succeeded in effecting his escape, while John MacAllan
and seventeen or eighteen of his followers were taken prisoners. Many
more were killed and a few who escaped alive with John Tolmach were
pursued out of the district. The slain were buried where they fell,
and the graves can still be seen, the nettles which continue to grow
over them at the present day indicating the position of the last
resting-place on the field of battle of these Macleod warriors, on
the west side of the Sgura Dubh, above Glen Torridon, a little beyond
the Gairloch estate march.
Shortly after this engagement another attempt was made by the
Macleods to regain the lands of Gairloch, the history of which is
still a prominent and interesting feature in the local traditions
of the parish. The affair is called "Latha Leac-na-Saighead."
Mr John H. Dixon gives a good version of it, as related to him
by Roderick Mackenzie, locally known as Ruairidh an Torra - an
intelligent man of about ninety who only died two years ago - in
his interesting book on the history and traditions of the parish
of Gairloch. According to Roderick's version, as given by Mr Dixon,
many of the Macleods, after they had been driven from Gairloch,
settled in Skye. A considerable number of the younger men were
invited by their chief to pass Hogmanay night in the Castle of
Dunvegan. In the kitchen there was an old woman known as Mor Bhan,
who was usually occupied in carding wool, and generally supposed to
be a witch. After dinner the men began to drink, and when they had
passed some time in this occupation, they sent to the kitchen for
Mor Bhan. She at once joined them in the hall, and having drunk one
or two glasses along with them, she remarked that it was a very poor
thing for the Macleods to be deprived of their own lands in Gairloch,
and to have to live in comparative poverty in Raasay and the Isle
of Skye. "But," she said to them, "prepare yourselves and start
to-morrow for Gairloch, sail in the black birlinn, and you shall
regain it. I shall be a witness of your success when you return."
The men trusted her, believing she had the power of divination. In
the morning they set sail for Gairloch - the black galley was full
of the Macleods. It was evening when they entered the loch. They
were afraid to land on the mainland, for they remembered that
the descendants of Domhnull Greannach (a celebrated Macrae) were
still there, and they knew the prowess of these men only too well.
The Macleods therefore turned to the south side of the loch, and
fastened their birlinn to the Fraoch Eilean, in the well-sheltered
bay opposite Leac-nan-Saighead, between Shieldaig and Badachro.
Here they decided to wait until morning, then disembark, and walk
round the head of the loch.
But all their movements had been well and carefully watched.
Domhnull Odhar Mac lain Leith and his brother Ian, the celebrated
Macrae archers, recognised the birlinn of the Macleods, and
determined to oppose their landing. They walked round the head
of the loch by Shieldaig and posted themselves before daylight
behind the Leac, a projecting rock overlooking the Fraoch Eilean.
The steps on which they stood at the back of the rock are still
pointed out. Donald Odhar, being of small stature, took the
higher of the two ledges, and Ian took the lower. Standing on
these they crouched down behind the rock, completely sheltered
from the enemy, but commanding a full view of the island, while
they were quite invisible to the Macleods, who lay down on the
island. As soon as the day dawned the two Macraes directed their
arrows on the strangers, of whom a number were killed before
their comrades were even aware of the direction from which the
messengers of death came. The Macleods endeavoured to answer
their arrows, but not being able to see the foe, their efforts
were of no effect. In the heat of the fight one of the Macleods
climbed up the mast of the birlinn to discover the position of
the enemy. Ian Odhar observing this, took deadly aim at him when
near the top of the mast. "Oh," says Donald, addressing John,
"you have sent a pin through his broth." The slaughter continued,
and the remnant of the Macleods hurried aboard their birlinn.
Cutting the rope, they turned her head seawards. By this time
only two of their number were left alive. In their hurry to
escape they left all the bodies of their slain companions unburied
on the island. A rumour of the arrival of the Macleods had during
the night spread through the district, and other warriors, such as
Fionnla Dubh na Saighead, and Fear Shieldaig, were soon at the scene
of action, but all they had to do on their arrival was to assist in
the burial of the dead Macleods. Pits were dug, into each of
which a number of the bodies were thrown, and mounds were raised
over them which remain to this day, as any one landing on the
island may observe.
In 1611, Murdoch Mackenzie, second surviving son of John Roy
Mackenze, IV. of Gairloch, accompanied by Alexander Bayne, heir
apparent of Tulloch, and several brave men from Gairloch, sailed
to the Isle of Skye in a vessel loaded with wine and provisions.
It is said by some that Murdoch's intention was to apprehend John
Tolmach, while others maintain that his object was to secure in
marriage the daughter and heir of line of Donald Dubh MacRory.
The latter theory is far the more probable, and it is the unbroken
tradition in Gairloch. John Macleod was a prisoner in Gairloch, was
unmarried, and easily secured where he was, in the event of this
marriage taking place. By such a union, failing issue by John, then
in the power of John Roy, the ancient rights of the Macleods would
revert to the Gairloch family, and a troublesome dispute would be
for ever settled, if John Tolmach were at the same time captured or
put to death.
It may easily be conceived how both objects would become combined
but whatever the real object of the trip to Skye, it proved disastrous.
The ship found its way - intentionally on the part of the crew, or
forced by a great storm - to the sheltered bay of Kirkton of Raasay,
opposite the present mansion house, where young MacGillechallum
at the time resided. Anchor was cast, and young Raasay, hearing
that Murdoch Mackenzie was on board, discussed the situation
with his friend MacGillechallum Mor MacDhomhnuill Mhic Neill, who
persuaded him to visit the ship as a friend, and secure Mackenzie's
person by stratagem, with the view of getting him afterwards
exchanged for his own relative, John MacAllan Mhic Rory, then a
prisoner in Gairloch. Acting on this advice, young Raasay, with
Gillecallum Mor and twelve of their men, started for the ship,
leaving word with his bastard brother, Murdoch, to get ready all
the men he could, to go to their assistance in small boats as soon
as the a]arm was given.
Mackenzie received his visitors in the most hospitable and
unsuspecting manner, and supplied them with as much wine and other
viands as they could consume. Four of his men, however, feeling
somewhat suspicious, and fearing the worst, abstained from drinking.
Alexander Bayne of Tulloch, and the remainder of Murdoch's men
partook of the good cheer to excess, and ultimately became so drunk
that they had to retire below deck. Mackenzie, who sat between
Raasay and MacGillechallum Mor, had not the slightest suspicion,
when Macleod, seeing Murdoch alone, jumped up, turned suddenly
round and told him that he must become his prisoner. Mackenzie
instantly started to his feet, in a violent passion, laid hold of
Raasay by the waist, and threw him down, exclaiming, "I would scorn
to be your prisoner." One of Raasay's followers, seeing his young
chief treated thus, stabbed Murdoch through the body with his dirk.
Mackenzie finding himself wounded, stepped back to draw his sword,
and, his foot coming against some obstruction, he stumbled over
it and fell into the sea.
Those on shore observing the row, came out in their small boats
and seeing Mackenzie, who was a dexterous swimmer, manfully making
for Sconsar, on the opposite shore, in Skye, they pelted him with
stones, smashed in his brains and drowned him. The few of his men
who kept sober, seeing their leader thus perish, resolved to sell
their lives dearly; and fighting like heroes, they killed the
young laird of Raasay, along with MacGillechallum Mor, author of
all the mischief, and his two sons. Young Bayne of Tulloch and his
six inebriated companions who had followed him below, hearing the
uproar overhead, attempted to come on deck, but they were all killed
by the Macleods as they presente themselves through the hold. Not a
soul of the Raasay men escaped alive from the swords of the four who
had kept sober, ably supported by the ship's crew.
The small boats now began to gather round the vessel and the Raasay
men attempted to get on board but they were thrown back, slain,
and pitched into the sea without mercy. The shot and ammunition
having become exhausted, all the pots and pans, and other articles
of furniture on board were hurled at the Macleods, while the four
abstainers plied their weapons of war with deadly effect. Having
procured a lull from the attempts of the enemy, they commenced to
pull in their anchor, when a shot from one of the boats killed one
of them - Hector MacKenneth, "a pretty young gentleman." The other
three seeing him slain, and being themselves more or less seriously
wounded, cut their cable, hoisted sail, and proceeded before a fresh
breeze, with all the dead bodies still lying about the deck. As
soon as they got out of danger, they threw the bodies of young
Raasay and his men into the sea, that they might have the same
interment which their own leader had received, and whose body they
were not able to search for.
It is said that none of the bodies were ever found, except that
of MacGillechallum Mor, which afterwards came ashore, and was
buried, in Raasay. The Gairloch men carried the bodies of Bayne
of Tulloch and his companions to Lochcarron, where they were
decently interred.
The only survivors of the Rausay affair were John MacEachainn
Chaoil, John MacKenneth Mhic Eachainn, and Kenneth MacSheumais.
The first named lived for thirty years after, dying in 1641; the
second died in 1662; and the third in 1663 - all very old men.
Amongst the slain was a son of Mackenzie of Badachro, who is
said to have signally distinguished himself. The conduct of the
Mackenzies of Gairloch was such on this and previous occasions
that they deemed it wise to secure a remission from the Crown,
which was duly granted to them in 1614, by James VI. [Mackenzie's
"History of the Macleods," pp. 361-366.] The document, modernised
in spelling, is as follows: