Another capital defect in a system, such as that of the Swiss, is that

it does not cultivate, but rather represses and deadens, the

imagination. This is the instrument of the creative faculty in man, that

in which we make the nearest approach to, and which gives to man in the

form and degree possible for him, the plastic power that is exhibited to

us in the richness, and diversity, of nature. It is this which makes a

man myriad-minded; which enables him to look at things from all sides,

and to see them in all lights; to regard them as minds most unlike his

own regard them; to be in his single self all men to all things; it is

what gives insight; and the power of forming accurate and distinct

conceptions of things in the three forms of what they actually are, of

what they have been, and of what, with reference to other conceptions

that have a bearing upon them, they ought to be. A man cannot be a poet,

an orator, an artist, hardly an inventor, or discoverer, an historian,

or a statesman, without the exercise of this faculty. His rank in any

one of these fields of intellectual work will depend on the degree to

which it has been developed within him; and the kind of discipline it is

under. Our system, in a rough, and haphazard, kind of a way, and again

more by accident than by intelligent, deliberate design, does something

for its cultivation, by the study of the poets and orators of Greece and

Rome; and by attempts at poetical composition. This is good as far as it

goes; but insufficient for the great purpose. And this insufficiency of

the means we are employing is aggravated, when they have to be applied

under the direction of masters and tutors, who possibly, and probably,

too, have never given a thought to the nature and purposes of the

imaginative faculty; and, therefore, are, of course, equally heedless of

the right methods of using the means, that happen to be in their hands,

for awakening, cultivating, and strengthening it.

Its proper cultivation in these times should not be confined to the

poetry of the old world. That is valuable, not merely on account of its

perfectness of form, but because it is one-sided, unchristian, and

narrow. It is the poetry of a small, highly privileged class, when that

small class was everything, and the bulk of mankind nothing. It is not

the poetry of humanity broadly. The recognition of the humanity of all

men equally constitutes one essential difference between the modern and

the old world. And this limited, and somewhat abnormal, humanity of the

ancient poetry is, furthermore, somewhat unconnected with a knowledge

of, and love for, nature—the _milieu_ of man. All this makes it very

valuable as a study of a distinct development, under peculiar

circumstances, of the poetic faculty. But it is insufficient. It is no

substitute for an acquaintance with the poetry of the modern world;

which, too, it should follow, and not precede. That is the truer and

more normal development. It has additional roots, a wider range, a

larger inspiration; it takes cognizance of what is in man, irrespective

of conditions, or rather under every condition: and it also consciously

regards man and nature connectedly; man’s internal nature, and nature

external to man, are to its apprehension correlated. Here, too, it has

received a new revelation.

And the attempt to turn a child’s mind in the direction of nature, and

to give him some general acquaintance with nature, and with modern

poetry, would be invaluable for another reason: for not only is this now

necessary, as an indispensable part of mental culture for all, being a

part of the rightful mental inheritance of those whose lot is cast in

these times, but because experience has taught us that there are many

minds, which have no aptitude for the acquisition of languages, either

from some congenital defects, or, as is most probable, from some faults

and omissions of early teaching and associations—but whatever may have

been in their cases the cause is a matter of no consequence now: the

mischief exists, and cannot be removed. Still, though deficient to this

extent, they may have no disinclination for the study of nature: that,

in the young, can hardly be possible. Here, then, is something that will

enable them to live a not unworthy intellectual life. It is necessary

for all: as a part of complete culture for those who are capable of

complete culture; and, for those who are not, as a sufficient culture.

* * * * *

The advocates of the continuance—to the extent and for the purposes I

have indicated—of classical study will labour under a great and unfair

disadvantage, as long as the classics shall be taught with but slight

perception, on the part of those who teach them, of their bearing on the

higher work of the day. As long as the main object of our public schools

shall continue to be professedly linguistic, and that, too, in a

somewhat narrow, and shallow fashion; and their tone, sometimes a little

ostentatiously, at variance with that of the world, and of the day, for

the work of which they ought to be a preparation (it was so with them

originally) so long will the advocacy of classical studies be unfairly

weighted with a sense of the justice of the charge of unreality brought

against them, as now conducted. Whereas in the advocates of modern

knowledge as the object and instrument of education, and in its

teachers, there is none of this unreality, or want of connexion with the

thought, and with the work, of the world that is stirring around us. We,

however, hold that it is a different department of work and thought, to

which the latter training mainly and primarily applies. A public man

need not, as a public man, know anything of astronomy and geology;

though, of course, he is behind the age, and his culture is incomplete,

if he does not. Of all such subjects he ought, as an educated man, to

have a general knowledge; and he will also be the better, as a public

man, for having it; but what is primarily and indispensably required of

him is a knowledge of man, and of all kinds of social phenomena in their

whole range; what they are, how they came to be what they are, and how

they affect man. Here his knowledge should be full and precise: and a

very valuable part of this knowledge is contained in the literature of

the old world. He ought to have lived through those ages. To have done

so is a vast extension of experience of the most useful kind. But he

cannot have lived through those times, unless he is familiar with the

feelings and thoughts, and actions of the men of those times, together

with the circumstances, and conditions, under which they so thought, and

felt, and acted. And he cannot have this familiarity unless he has a

knowledge of the very words, in which they, themselves, expressed, and

described, those feelings, thoughts, and actions.

One word more. There is no knowledge so valuable as that of what is

knowledge; nor any intellectual habit so valuable as that which disposes

us in every thing to require knowledge, and to separate that which is

knowledge from that which is not. Theoretically, there is no reason why

either the study of language, or theology, should not be made a training

for this knowledge, and for this habit. But as this is a matter of

practice, as well as of theory, we must look at things as they are, and

see where what we want is actually found, and what has in those cases

produced it; and where there has been a failure in producing it, and

what has been in those cases the cause of this failure. Who, then, are

most conspicuous for knowing in what knowledge consists, and for the

habit of requiring knowledge as a ground for thought and action, and for

being ever on the alert to separate knowledge from its counterfeits? No

one, I think, would hesitate in replying, those who have had some

scientific training. And it is easy to see how scientific training gives

this knowledge, and this habit. It makes no difference what the matter

of the study be, whether the stars, or the fungi; whether the physiology

of man, or of an earth-worm. The object is soon seen to be truth; and

the motive is soon felt to be the satisfaction which truth gives to the

mind, and the desire to escape, in the practical order, from the

wastefulness, and the mischief of error. Whatever, therefore, is

necessary for the attainment of truth is submitted to, or acquired, or

eliminated, or avoided, in accordance with the exigency of each case. In

these pursuits men learn to guard against appearances that they may not

be misled by them; to sift evidence; to distinguish facts from supposed,

or alleged, facts; to observe patiently and closely; to suspend

judgment; to distinguish probability from certainty; to distinguish

different degrees of probability; to distinguish what they know from

what they wish; not to wish for anything but ascertained and

demonstrable truth; to examine everything, and to hold fast only that

which is demonstrably true; to guard against ambiguities in words; to

use words for photographing facts, and not to make them a mist which

obscures both the object of inquiry, and the paths which lead to it. As

a matter of observation, and of fact, these are the habits of mind,

which the scientific study of any subject inculcates, and makes natural

to a man. They become his second nature. Of course they ought to be the

nature of all educated people. And when a man’s mind has been thus

trained in the study, scientifically pursued, of any one subject, he

applies these habits to the consideration of all other subjects, with

which he may have to do: to those, with which he is not familiar, he

addresses himself with the same ideas, and the same ways of thinking, as

he does to that, with which he is familiar. He knows what knowledge is;

and, while he can suspend his judgment, he cannot be satisfied with

anything but knowledge. What he does not know upon these subjects he

knows that he does not know. The study of language, and theology, if

scientifically taught, are doubtless capable of supplying this training,

but looking at our educated classes generally, and at those who have had

administered to them the greatest amount of these two studies, it does

not appear that the desired effect has been produced. If, then, these

things are so, here is both something that should be an object, and

something that is a defect, as things now are, in our higher education.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHAPTER XVII.

ELSASS—LOTHRINGEN—METZ—GRAVELOTTE—MOTHER OF THE CURÉ OF STE. MARIE AUX

CHÊNES—WATERLOO.

It is a just award

That they who take, should perish by, the sword.

I included Mulhouse, Colmar, Strasbourg, Bitche, and Metz in my homeward

journey. As I passed along, the higher peaks of the Vosges were white

with recently fallen snow. It is not, however, the forest-clad

mountains, and their snow-capped summits which interest most the thought

of the traveller, as he traverses this district, now, but the

consequences of that recent transference of power, of which the names

just written down remind him: the cotton industry of Mulhouse and

Colmar; the astonishing agricultural wealth of the neighbourhood of

Strasbourg, where the land yields, side by side, in singular luxuriance

the five agricultural products, sugar-beet, hops, wine, tobacco, and

maize, which in Europe pay the best; the strategical importance, and

military strength, of Strasbourg, Bitche, and Metz; the variety of the

manufactures, and of the agricultural resources, of the country round

Metz; and, more than all this wealth and strength, the people themselves

of these districts, who were the manliest, the most industrious, and the

most thriving part of the population of France. One can, at present,

hardly estimate rightly the value of what has thus been taken from

France, and given, if the expression may be allowed, to her natural

enemy. Still it was France herself that laid this incalculable stake

upon the table: her portion of the left bank of the Rhine against

Prussia’s; and insisted on the game being played. And the chances were

against her. She had acquired Strasbourg by amazing treachery; and now

the ignorance, arrogance, and vice by which she was to lose it, were

equally amazing. And this war of 1870-71 was a natural sequel of the

wrongs the first Napoleon did to Germany. That it was that had obliged

the Germans to devote themselves to military organisation, and to

understand the necessity of national union; and which was hardening

their will, and nerving their arm. As to the French, one would be glad

to find that they were delivering themselves from those causes in

themselves, which led to their great catastrophe. But the existing

generation cannot expect to see the day, when the rural population of

France will have attained to more enlightenment than they have at

present, and its city population to more rational ideas of liberty,

justice, and truth, than they have exhibited hitherto; for the lives of

the former are too hard, and the latter are too fanatical, to admit of

much immediate improvement in either.

I stopped at Metz to see the battle-field of Gravelotte. I went over it

with two Englishmen, who had come to Metz for the same purpose. We were

provided with maps, and plans, and narratives of the great battle. It

was a bright fine day. We started at 8.30 A.M., and did not get back to

Metz till 5 P.M. It requires, at least, six hours to go over the field,

including the hour you stop at Ste. Marie aux Chênes for baiting your

horses, and for luncheon.

The French ground was well chosen for a defensive battle. It was along

the ridge of the rising ground, facing to the west, from St. Privat and

Roncour on their right, to the high ground opposite to, and behind St.

Hubert, on their left. St. Hubert was a farmhouse in the depression. It

had a walled garden. This ground was about five miles in length. Early

in the day the Germans occupied only a part of the ground in front of

the French position, beginning at Gravelotte, a little to the south-west

of the French left. At this time there was no enemy in front of the

French right. The ground here, rendered strong by a line of detached

farm-houses, woods, and villages, was occupied by French outposts. From

all these they were driven, in succession, by the extension of the

German left. The strongest position here, and in it much hard fighting

took place, was the village of Ste. Marie aux Chênes. The Germans first

attacked the French left at St. Hubert. From this they drove them out.

One can hardly understand how they managed to get possession of it, for

the French occupied the high ground all round it. To march upon it was

like marching into the bottom of a bowl to attack a strong place in the

bottom, commanded by the enemy’s cannon from every part of the rim.

Having, however, established themselves here, they advanced up the hill

against the French left. But, though they were repulsed, they were not

driven out of St. Hubert. In the evening, the Germans, having

established themselves along the front of the French right, and having

even somewhat outflanked it, attacked them at St. Privat and Roncour.

Here was most desperate fighting; and one, while standing on the ground,

is surprised that any troops could have faced what the Germans had to go

through. Their advance was made up a perfectly smooth, and open,

incline, three-quarters of a mile across, the whole of it completely

swept, and commanded by the French cannon, mitrailleuse, and Chassepots,

which we must recollect killed some hundreds of yards further than the

needle-gun. A Saxon corps, that had been coming up with forced marches,

in the evening reached this point, and went straight up the hill. In

fourteen minutes half its strength was _hors du combat_. There is a

monument on the spot to those who fell here. The whole field is full of

German monuments, for wherever their men fell, there they were buried;

and there a monument has since been raised to their memory. At last the

French right was driven off this ground, and out of the strong village

of St. Privat behind it. It was now dark. The French were in no

position, or condition, to renew the fight the next day; and so, during

the night, they withdrew to Metz, leaving their material behind. They

had fought a defensive battle, which suited neither the character of

their troops, nor the circumstances of their position.

At Ste. Marie aux Chênes, where we stopped an hour for luncheon, we

spent part of the time in walking about the village, and looking at the

traces of the fight. It is a large village, every house of which has

thick rubble or stone walls. All the buildings in it were occupied

strongly by the French; and all were, successively, carried. It was a

from house-to-house and hand-to-hand fight. We found all the doors,

window-shutters, and window-frames in the place, new, because the old

ones had been battered in, hacked to pieces, and destroyed by the

Germans, as they forced their way into each house separately. No

prisoners were taken.

Among other spots we visited here was a little enclosed space, where the

Germans had buried their dead. While we were looking at the grave of a

young Englishman of the name of Annesly—Von Annesly he is called on the

stone—who had fallen in the assault on the village—he had attained to

the rank of lieutenant in the German service—an elderly peasant woman

approached; and, on finding that we were not Germans, freely entered

into conversation with us. She soon told us that she was the mother of

the Curé of the village. She had been one among the few inhabitants of

the place, who, having taken refuge in cellars, had remained in it

during the assault. She was very communicative, and invited us to

accompany her to her house, where she showed us, with touching pride,

their best tea service, and the church ornaments, which are used on fête

days. The best room in the house had been appropriated to their safe

keeping, and exhibition. The china service had been a present, what we

should call a testimonial, and was placed, _en évidence_, on a table in

the middle of the room. The church ornaments were arranged on a large

sofa. They consisted of artificial flowers moulded in porcelain, with a

great deal of gilding. The good woman then took us into the study; M. le

Curé’s study, as she was careful to tell us. She never referred to M. le

Curé, and her thoughts were never far from him, without a smile of

satisfied motherly emotion playing over her face. Those were M. le

Curé’s books. There were about half-a-dozen. That was the table at which

M. le Curé sometimes wrote. That garden, the outer door of the study

opened upon it, was a beautiful garden, which M. le Curé worked in

himself. M. le Curé was now absent from home, for the purpose of making

a collection for the purchase of a figure of the Virgin, to commemorate

her goodness in having miraculously saved the Church, when so much

injury had been done to every other building in the place: but the

church in the neighbouring village we saw had been burnt during the

assault upon it. The good villagers had been very liberal in their

contributions for the purchase of the figure. The sum, however,

mentioned as their contributions, amounted only to a few francs. Still

it might have been much for them to give, for they may not have been

much in the habit of giving. M. le Curé’s study, the scene of his

peaceful and sacred studies, had been made a hospital. There, just where

he always sits, a limb had been amputated. Here, and there, on the floor

wounded men had died. The floor of M. le Curé’s study had been stained

with blood. One memento of that fearful day had been preserved. It was a

small hole in the door through which a bullet had passed: but that was a

bullet that had hurt nobody. I shall never think of the field of

Gravelotte without a pleasing recollection of the mother of the Curé of

Ste. Marie aux Chênes. She was a tall woman with what seemed a hard

face, but at every mention of M. le Curé, or of the Holy Virgin, it was

lighted up, and softened. She wore a faded cotton dress, and a

weather-stained, coalscuttle-shaped straw bonnet—her grandmother,

perhaps, had once been proud of it—but the reflection of her simple,

motherly, happy heart on her face, refined both face and dress. The

heart’s ease only was noticed.

The Germans have done, and are doing, everything that could be done, to

restore to the people what they lost during the war. They have, in these

parts, repaired every house and building that admitted of repair; and

completely rebuilt all that had been too much injured for repair. They

have thus given many new lamps for very old ones. They have not yet

rebuilt the Church of St. Privat, because the people themselves have not

yet decided, whether they wish the new one to be the facsimile of the

old one, or a larger structure, such as the increased population of the

modern village requires: the familiar opposition between those who are

afraid to acknowledge that the world has made any advances, and those

who see nothing objectionable in advances, or in accommodating

themselves to them. Of the other injuries, the people in these parts had

sustained by the war, they were asked to make an estimate themselves.

Half of their estimates was immediately paid to them; and they were told

that the remaining half would be paid, after the 1st of October, on

their having decided to become German citizens. The inhabitants of the

villages round Metz had had their corn, and cattle, and horses swept off

by the French Commissariat. These poor people the Germans fed during the

siege with provisions brought from Germany. I could not hear in Metz, or

in the neighbourhood, of a single instance of a German soldier having

been seen drunk, or that any act of violence could be charged against

them; nor could I hear even of oppression or harshness of any kind.

Metz, with its central arsenal, and its outer circle of apparently

impregnable hill fortresses, gives you the idea of a place which nature

had formed expressly for this gunpowder era, intending that its owners

should fortify it, and use it as a rallying place for defeated

armies—the armies, not of a small, but of a great nation; where they

might in safety collect their shattered fragments; and, having

re-organised and re-equipped themselves, might again take the field for

fresh efforts. In the days of bows and spears it could not have had this

value, which it may lose when our present instruments of war shall have

been superseded by discoveries not yet dreamt of; but, although the

French were not able to turn the place to such an account, still this

seems to be one of the uses that may be made of it by its possessors:

besides being an impregnable advanced post for the invasion of a

neighbour.

The Cathedral is far too short for its height. It contains some windows

of very good old stained glass. The only person I saw in it was an

American. Shall I say that we had both come to see it, just as we might

go to see some curious object in a museum? I, at all events, accused

myself of something of this kind, for I had a consciousness of the

discord between such a purpose, and the history and character of the

structure. For however much it may now have the appearance of a thing

unused, and unloved, and from which the soul has fled, yet was it built

to satisfy a want, in the religious order, which all men longed to

satisfy; and to give visible expression to a feeling, which then stirred

every heart. Not anything else, not money, not power, could have built

it; that is to say, could have summoned into existence the sentiments,

of which the building is an embodiment.

But on this occasion its clustered columns, its groined roof, its lofty

aisles, its jewelled light, transported my thoughts only to Mr.

Spurgeon’s Tabernacle; for I found myself endeavouring to understand and

measure the difference between the two: but the endeavour brought me to

see, under so much outward diversity, only an inward identity. They are

both equally the result of the desire to form elevated and right

conceptions of God—the focal name in which all elevated and right

conceptions meet; and so to open the heart and mind, as that these

elevated and right conceptions, which have been projected from them, may

react upon them. This is Religion, the Spiritual life, in their simplest

expression, in their inner form. In the ages of Faith, as they have been

called, the most effectual way of attaining the desired end was through

the eye; that is to say, the means, that could then be used with most

effect, was art, in architecture, sculpture, painting, music. In the

then state of the heart and of the imagination these best stirred and

attuned them. Hence the Cathedral, and all that is implied in it. In

these days, not of the knowledge, or of the conditions of life, or of

the faith, of the old kinds, the most effectual means, especially among

the lower strata of the middle class, is not art, which would have no

power over them, but such direct appeals to their understandings and

consciences, as will not be beyond their capacities. Hence Mr. Spurgeon

and his Tabernacle. But the object is in both one and the same.

No sooner, however, had I come to this, which seemed for a moment to be

a conclusion, than my thoughts entered the reverse process, and the

identity I had been contemplating was transformed into diversity. The

juxtaposition, in the mind’s eye, of the Cathedral and of the Tabernacle

suggested a difference, if not in the elements of religion itself, yet,

at all events, in the modes through which different religious systems

have attempted to act on the world. The Cathedral seemed to represent

two modes: that which may for convenience be called, using the word in a

good sense, the heathen mode; that is to say, culture, but in the form

only of art; and the priestly, or Judaical, mode, which means

organization. Its grand and beautiful structure grew out of the former,

through the aid of the latter. The Tabernacle represents a totally

different mode—the prophetical; and prophesying is the principle of

life, of growth, and of development in religion. We see this throughout

the history both of the Old and of the New Dispensation. Romanism has

killed this vital principle; and is, therefore, as good as, or worse

than, dead; for it has a bad odour. It is now all dead heathenism, and

dead organization: a gilt and gaily painted monstrous iron machine,

which can be set at work, but which has no heart. This explains

everything. This is the key that unlocks its whole modern history. Its

long ghastly list of persecutions, its Inquisition, its St.

Bartholemew’s, its Infallible Monocracy, are all alike logically

deducible from the determination to live by other means than that of

prophesying; in fact, utterly to suppress the one means of life, and to

live, if such a thing were possible, by those means only which have not

life in themselves. But Persecutions, Inquisitions, St. Bartholemew’s,

and Infallibility can be of no avail: for prophesying has always and

everywhere been, and will always and everywhere be, the life of

religion; and, therefore, destructive, sooner or later, of all cast-iron

systems. With respect to the Tabernacle, it is not so much that it has

rejected the other two modes, as that it has no comprehension of their

nature and use. It never, therefore, has either risen to the level of

ordinary culture, or organized itself as a religious system. It makes no

appeal to the former, and, Wesleyanism excepted, no use of the latter.

This explains why, though not devoid of life, it is without form, and

without attractive power for refined minds. Christianity, it is evident,

in its early days depended entirely on prophesying. As it grew, having

at that time the living power of assimilating what it needed, it

borrowed organization from Judaism, and culture and art from heathenism:

but prophesying must always be the distinctively Christian mode; so long

as Christianity addresses itself to what is in man, that is, to his

knowledge and moral consciousness.

Which, therefore, of these modes is the best is an inquiry, which would

be somewhat sterile, and misleading; for each is good in its proper

place, and degree, and for its proper purpose; and under some

circumstances one, and under other circumstances another, will

inevitably be resorted to. It would be more profitable to keep in mind

that not one is ever exempt in its use from error and perversion. These,

at every turn and step, will reappear, as the unavoidable results of the

imperfections of those, in whose hands the administration of religion,

as of all human affairs, must rest: for they are but men; and, Error and

Perversion, you both have the same name, and that name is Man. History,

and experience, teach us that, in the long run, the most efficient check

to these errors and perversions, both in those who minister, and in

those who are ministered to, is, as far as is possible in this world of

necessarily mixed motives, and defective knowledge, to be dead unto

self, and alive unto God, that is to the good work one finds set before

one. Herein is the true apostolism: not for self, but for the end for

which one was sent—for an object, beyond self, distinctly seen, and

distinctly good. This in an individual is almost, and in a body of men

perhaps quite, impossible. Still it is just what always has to be done

by ‘the Church,’ which, in whatever sense we take the word, will be a

body of men; and by Mr. Spurgeon, acting with those who believe in him;

and, therefore, whenever attempted, will only be done very imperfectly.

So it must be. But we see that, notwithstanding, the world has advanced,

and is advancing. In ‘the Church,’ and among the Spurgeons and their

respective people, and among others, who cannot be quite correctly

ranged under either of these categories, there will always be some

(generally a very small minority; but these are not questions that can

be decided by counting hands) who have caught partial glimpses of what

ought to be said and done, and who will set themselves the task,

generally a very thankless one, of making their partial glimpses known.

One thing, however, at all events is certain: it is safer to trust to

the Spirit of the Prophet than to the culture and organization of the

Priest, if they must be had separately: though, perhaps, their due

combination, might be best of all.

These were the thoughts which passed through my mind, while I was in the

Cathedral of Metz; for the American, who came in just after I had

entered it, required but a very few minutes for ‘doing’ this grand old

monument of mediæval piety; and soon left it to the twilight—the day was

nearly run out—and to my twilight meditations.

The Hotel de l’Europe, the best in Metz, is not good. The head-waiter—he

was an Austrian—was so imperious that I soon found it advisable,

whenever I had occasion to ask him a question, to apologise for the

trouble I was giving him. The angular peg had been put into the round

hole. Nature had intended him for a German prince. They charge here for

a two-horse carriage to Gravelotte, including the driver, two Napoleons.

At this rate they must get back, one would think, every week the

original cost of the rickety vehicle and half-starved horses. There is,

however, but little competition in the matter of the imperious waiter,

and none at all in that of the costly carriage he provides for you.

At Metz, and I heard that it was so, generally, throughout both the

annexed provinces, a great many people were desirous of selling their

houses and land. There was not, however, by any means an equal number of

people who were desirous of purchasing. This fewness of purchasers

indicates the prevalence of an opinion that the loss of these provinces

is far too great for France ever to acquiesce in; and that, therefore,

she will, on the first opportunity that may offer, endeavour to recover

them by the sword: in which case they will become the theatre of war. It

is true that the course of events in the New World, as well as in the

Old, has taught the present generation, very impressively, the lesson

that what is expected is seldom what happens; still, one may say, of

course with a strong feeling of the uncertainty of human affairs, that

there is nothing apparent, at present, on the surface of things, to give

rise to the supposition that a second reference, on the part of the

French, to the arbitrament of the sword, would lead to a different issue

from that which the first had. Empire is maintained, and retained, by

the means by which it was obtained; and there seems no probability of

Germany ever allowing herself to be caught napping; or of her strength,

energy, and determination being sapped by national corruption. That is

not a consummation which the solid character of the people renders at

all likely. Even their rude climate, which, to some extent, forbids a

life of sensuous and vicious self-indulgence, will, we may think, help

them in the future to maintain the character, which has always

distinguished them hitherto; it seems to make earnestness, and mental

hardihood, natural to them. One’s thoughts on this subject would be very

much modified, if there were in France any symptoms, which might lead

one to hope that she was ‘coming to herself.’

On leaving Metz, by an early train, I had to form one in a scene of

crowding and confusion greater than I had ever elsewhere encountered on

that side of the Channel, except a few days before at Strasbourg, where

it was as bad. We are often told that the advantage of the foreign

system of over-administration is that everything of this kind is

rendered impossible; but here it was all in excess. Tickets for all

classes were issued by the same clerk, and for two trains at the same

time, for one was to start only a few minutes before the other. Some

people were pushing; some were in a high state of excitement. There was

no possibility of forming a _queue_. I was told that this, and many

other things of the same kind, would be set right after the 1st of

October, on which day the Germans would take all these matters into

their own hands. Hitherto they had interfered with the local

administration as little as possible. One consequence of this had been

that the existing authorities, whose reign was so soon to expire, had

not been very attentive to their duties; perhaps they had not been very

desirous of keeping things straight; and the lower orders, availing

themselves of the license that had been permitted, had become so

insubordinate, that it had been found difficult, in some cases

impossible, to carry on the operations of factories, in which many hands

were employed. But after the 1st of October there was to be an end of

all this: a German burgomaster was to be appointed, and German order was

to be maintained. On that morning I wished that, as far as the station

at Metz was concerned, the change had already been effected.

In the neighbourhood of Luxembourg, I saw several trains full of iron

ore. From Luxembourg to Namur the country is, generally, very poor. It

consists mainly of lime-stone hills, heaths, and woods in which there is

little or no good timber. Between Namur and Brussels the country

improves, agriculturally, very much.

At Brussels I had some difficulty in getting a bed; all the hotels being

full of Belgian and English volunteers, and of people who had come to

see the international shooting. There had just been a public reception

of volunteers, and everybody was in the streets. I heard a burly

tradesman, who was standing at the door of his shop, shout at the top of

his voice, but the result did not correspond with the effort, as one of

our volunteers was passing, in the uniform of a Scottish corps,

‘Shotland for ever’—the land, doubtless, of good shots. Etymologists,

consider this, and be cautious.

The much-lauded Hotel de Ville I venture to think unsatisfactory. For so

much ornamentation it is deficient in size. Its chief external feature

is the multitude of figures upon it. The effect of this is bad. One sees

no reason why they should be there. They are too small. They are

indistinguishable from each other, There is no action: merely rows of

figures. This was unavoidable in the position assigned them, but its

being unavoidable was no reason for assigning them that position, nor

does it at all contribute towards rendering them pleasing objects.

Many of the volunteers made a night of it in honour of their English

visitors. Having been woke, by their shouting and hurrahing in the

streets, at one o’clock in the morning, I was disposed to think such

demonstrations unbecoming in bearded warriors.

I went with a party of Englishmen, and some Americans, to Waterloo. We

were driven over the old, straight, stone-paved, poplar-bordered road,

by an English whip, in an English four-horse stage-coach. The road is

just what it was, when Wellington passed over it, from ‘the revelry at

night’ for the great fight. That part, however, of the Forest of

Soignies, which should be on the right of the road, has been destroyed,

to make way for the plough. What remains of the forest, on the left,

consists of tall, straight, unbranching beech, with the surface of the

ground, between the trunks, clear and smooth. While we were at Hougomont

a violent thunderstorm, accompanied with heavy rain, drifted over the

field. As the soil is a tenacious clay, which becomes very slippery when

wet, this storm was most opportune, for it showed us what kind of

footing the contending hosts had on the great day. Hougomont is still

very much in the condition in which it was left on the evening of that

day. What was burnt has not been rebuilt; and what remained, has not

been added to, or altered. The loop-holes that were made in the garden

wall are still there. So also are the hedge, and ditch, on the outside

of the orchard. The only difference is that the whole of the wood of

Hougomont has gone the way of a part of the Forest of Soignies. We have

all of us tried to understand Waterloo; but a visit to the field itself

will show that it is no more possible to understand, fully and rightly,

this than any other battle, without ocular knowledge of the ground on

which it was fought. A comparison of the field of Waterloo with that of

Gravelotte will assist a civilian in estimating the extent of the change

in tactics, which modern improvements in the weapons of war have

necessitated. He will see that the battle of June 18, 1815, belongs to

an order of things that is obsolete now. With the cannon, and rifles, of

the present day, it could not have been fought as it was; and would not,

probably, have been fought where it was.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHAPTER XVIII.

HOW THE OBSERVATION AND KNOWLEDGE OF NATURE, AND THE CONDITIONS OF

SOCIETY AFFECT RELIGION AND THEOLOGY. AN INSTRUCTIVE PARALLELISM.

CONCLUSION.

Consider the lilies of the field.—_Gospel of St. Matthew._

The powers that be are ordained of God.—_Epistle to the Romans._

It was 8 o’clock in the evening when I left Brussels. At 6 o’clock the

next morning I stepped upon the platform of the Charing Cross Station.

So ended, after very nearly five weeks, my little excursion. In the

foregoing pages I have set down, not only what I saw, which could not

have had much novelty, but the thoughts, also, as well about man as

about nature, which what I saw suggested to me; and these, too, may not

have much value. To some, however, everything in nature is instructive

and interesting, and so is everything in man; or they seem to be so.

But, in order to secure this instruction and interest, I believe that

they must be viewed connectedly. The one is properly intelligible only

by the light that shines from the other. To regard either separately is

to misunderstand both. Nature is the field in which He, Whose form no

man hath seen at any time, reveals to us His Creative Power, for the

purpose that the intelligent contemplation of the objects, He presents

to our view, should engender in us certain sentiments and ideas, which

have from the beginning, in the degree and form possible at each epoch,

underlaid religion. Our fellow men are the field in which He reveals to

us the capacities and conditions; the strength, the weaknesses, the

workings, and the aspirations of moral and of intellectual being, as

conditioned in ourselves: another, and perhaps a higher, revelation of

Himself; and the consciousness of which being in the individual

constitutes, as far as we know, in this visible world of ours, the

distinctive privilege of man; and the exercise of which, under the sense

of responsibility, crowns the edifice of religion. The study of both has

been equally submitted to us, is equally our duty, and is necessary for

the completion of our happiness. They are the correlated parts of a

single revelation, and of a single study. The man who shuts his eyes to

the one, or to the other, cannot understand, at all events as fully as

he might, either that portion of the revelation at which he looks

exclusively, or himself, or Him, Who makes the revelation, in the sense

in which He has willed that each should be understood.

The products of our modern advanced methods of agriculture bear the same

kind of relation to the products of the burnt stick (they could both

support life, but very differently), that the religious sentiments and

ideas produced by our knowledge of nature bear to those which the

ignorant observation of a few prominent phenomena, as thunder and

lightning, the power of the wind and of the sun, the action of fire,

life and death, produced in the minds of the men of that remote day. The

mind of the inhabitants of this country, precisely like the land of this

country, was just the same at that day as at this. The powers and

capacities of each are invariable. What varies, and always in the

direction of advance, is that which is applied to the mind: as is the

case also with respect to the land. The knowledge of what produces the

thunder and lightning, of the laws that govern the motions of the

heavenly bodies, of what originates and calms the wind, of the forces of

nature, of the structure of animals and plants, are so many instruments,

by which the constant quantity, the human mind, is cultivated for

greater productiveness. No one dreams that we have approached the end of

such knowledge, any more than that our agriculture has reached its last

advance. The state of knowledge, whatever it may be at any time (from

that of our rudest forefathers to our own), produces corresponding ideas

and sentiments. Its reception into the mind unfailingly generates those

ideas and sentiments, just as the application of any method of

agriculture, with the appliances that belong to it, gives the amount and

kind of produce from the land proper to that method and to those

appliances. As an instance taken from a highly civilized people, the

close observation of the instincts of animals, and of the properties of

plants, offered to the leisure, accompanied by some other favouring

circumstances, of the ancient Egyptians, but unaccompanied by any

knowledge of the laws, the forces, and the order of nature; that is to

say, their existing knowledge, together with the existing limitations to

that knowledge, led unavoidably to the ideas and sentiments we find in

them; that is to say, to what was their religion, which combined the

worship of plants and animals, with belief in a future life.

The other self-acting factor to that organization of thought and

sentiment, which is religion, is the observation of what will perfect

human society, and the life of the individual, under the conditions of

their existence at the time. Certain things ought to be removed: it is

religion to remove them. Certain things ought to be maintained: it is

religion to maintain them. Certain things ought to be established: it is

religion to establish them. Certain knowledge ought to be propagated: it

is religion to propagate it.

Now both these contributions to religion, the knowledge of nature, which

is inexhaustible, and the conditions of human society, which are

endlessly multiform, are progressively variable quantities; religion,

therefore, the resultant of the combined action of the two, must itself

vary with them; that is to say, must advance with them.

It is a corollary to this, that from the day a religion forms itself

into a completed system, it becomes a matured fruit; the perfected

result of a train of anterior and contemporary conditions, that have

long been working towards its production. Thenceforth it is useful for a

time just as a fruit may be. It has, also, in itself, as a fruit has,

the seed of a future growth. But with that exception, though still

serviceable, it is dead, though organized, matter. A certain concurrence

of conditions, which can never be repeated, because knowledge and

society are ever advancing, produced the fruit, which, like that of the

aloe, can only be produced once out of its own concurrence of

conditions. Man’s spiritual nature feeds on that fruit, and is nourished

by it, for a greater or less number of generations. At last, for it must

come, a new concurrence of conditions arises, and a new fruit is

produced. The vital germ that was in the old fruit, passed into the

_milieu_ of the new ideas and sentiments, and a new growth commenced.

Organization then ensued, and in due time bore, as its fruit, its own

matured and perfected system. At the establishment of Christianity, in

the order of knowledge, the perception of the absurdity of thousands of

local divinities, and, in the social and political order, the

establishment of an Universal Empire, which gave rise to a sense of the

brotherhood of mankind, combined in demanding that the whole

organization of religious thought should be recast. Everyone can see the

part these two facts had in the construction, and in bringing about the

reception, of Christian ideas and Christian morality. In these days we

see that social and political conditions are changing, though we cannot

so exactly define and describe in what that change consists as we can

that just referred to; but we know that at the time of that change there

was, though it was distinctly felt, the same absence of power to define

and describe it distinctly. About the recent advance, however, in

knowledge there is no want of distinctness: that is as palpable as it

is, beyond measure, greater than the advances of all former times. It

amounts almost to a revelation of the constitution and order of nature.

The ideas and sentiments this new knowledge has given rise to are

somewhat different from, for instance they are grander and give more

satisfaction to thought than, the ideas and sentiments that accompanied

the knowledge, or rather the ignorance, on the same subjects, of two, or

of one, thousand years back. This must have some effect on the religion

of Christendom, and the effect cannot but be elevating and improving.

This knowledge cannot possibly be bad, because it is only the attainment

of the ideas, which, on the theory both of religion and of commonsense,

were in the mind of the Creator before they were embodied in nature;

which were embodied in nature, and were submitted to us, in order that

they might be attained to by us, for the sake of the effect the

knowledge would have upon our minds, that is to say, ultimately on our

religion.

This knowledge, it is notorious, is not estimated in this way by many

good men amongst us, they, on the contrary, being disposed to regard it

rather with repugnance, horror, and consternation. The reason is not far

to seek. They have, probably, in all such cases, received only a

theological and literary training. Now every theology, as is seen in the

meaning of the word, and as belongs to the nature of the construction,

contains an implicit assertion, both that no new knowledge, which can

have any good influence on men’s thoughts, sentiments, and lives, can be

attained, subsequently to the date of its own formation; and that the

workings of human society will never lead to advances beyond those,

which had at that time been reached. And literary training, in this

country, has hitherto meant a kind of _dilettante_ acquaintance with the

literature of the ancient Greeks and Romans, regarded, not as a chapter

in the moral and intellectual history of the race, but rather as

supplying models for expression. No wonder, then, need be felt at

finding those, who are conversant only with what is dead, scared at the

phenomena of life. The wonder would be if it were otherwise. But the

same conditions, we all know, act differently on differently constituted

minds: and this explains the opposite effect which modern criticism has

upon the minds of some of those who have had only literary training.

This criticism they find opposed to some of the positions of the old

theology; and the effect of this discovery upon them is that it makes

them hostile to religion itself. As well might Newton have felt horror

at the idea of gravitation because Ptolemy had believed in cycles and

epicycles. It is the preponderance of literary training in them, also,

that issues in this opposite result.

Religion is the organization of all that men know both of outward nature

and of man, for the purpose of guiding life, of perfecting the

individual and society, and of feeding the mind and the heart with the

contemplation of the beauty and order of the universe, inclusive of man

and of God, that is to say, of the conception we can form, at the time,

of the All-originating, All-ordering, and All-governing Power. This is,

ever has been, and ever will be Religion, unless we should pass into a

New Dispensation, at present inconceivable, because it would require the

recasting, at all events, of man, if not of the external conditions of

his existence, that is, of the world also. But as long as things

continue as they have been, knowledge will always advance religion; and

religion will always conform itself to knowledge. The essential

difference between one religion and another, from Fetishism up to

Christianity, is one of knowledge.

Before the construction of systematic theologies, knowledge and religion

were convertible terms. It was so under the Old Dispensation; and so

again in the early days of Christianity. After their construction the

former term was modified. It had been generic, it thenceforth became

specific. The differentiating limitation imposed upon it was that of

this particular theology, exclusive of all other theologies; and, as it

was a theology, this involved the exclusion of the ideas of correction

and enlargement.

Error and insufficiency must, from the nature of the materials dealt

with, after a time be found in every theology. In this sense every

Church has erred, and could not but have erred. The mischief, however,

is not in this error and insufficiency, for they are remediable. The

progress of knowledge which points out the error, often indeed creating

it by the introduction of additional data, supplies the means for

correcting it; and the advance in the conditions of society, which

creates the insufficiency, suggests the means for correcting it, too.

Nor, again, is the mischief in the ignorance of the majority, for that

can to the extent required be removed. It is in the determination of

some, from whom better things might have been expected, not to examine

all things with the intention of holding fast that which is true; but to

close their eyes and ears, as theologians, against all that the educated

world now knows, and all that the uneducated masses are repelled by in

what is now presented to them as the Word of God. This determination

puts them in the position of being obliged to support, and encourage,

only those who address themselves to the ignorance of the age, but not

for the purpose of removing it; and to oppose, and discourage, those who

address themselves to the knowledge of the age, for the purpose of

making it religious. We need not repeat what we have been told will

happen, when the blind lead the blind.

The recollection of what has given to our political constitution its

orderly and peaceful development might be of use here. It goes on

accommodating itself smoothly, and without convulsions, to the altering

conditions of society, because political parties amongst us are not

coincident with classes. Members of the popular party are to be found in

the highest classes as well as in the lowest, and of the stationary

party in the lowest as well as in the highest. This is what has here

exorcized the demon of revolution. If party lines had been drawn

horizontally instead of vertically, class would have been arrayed

against class; and, probably, ignorance and violence, supported by

numbers, would have made a clean sweep of our institutions, and, to no

small extent, of our civilization. What has been advantageous in the

political order would be equally so in the religious. What has saved us

from a political, might, if adopted, save us from a possible religious,

crash. It is a miserably short-sighted policy to endeavour to drive from

the camp of religion, or of the National Church, those who have accepted

the knowledge of our times, and who have sympathies with the existing

tendencies or possibilities of society: so that on one side shall be

arrayed only those, who rest on what is old, and on the other only

those, who have no disposition to reject what is new. Whereas the true

bridge from the present to the future can be constructed by neither of

these parties alone; but must be the work of those, whose wish and

effort are to combine, and to harmonise, the new with the old. This

appreciation of what is needed, is, at all events, in accordance with

the meaning of the saying, to the authority of which we must all defer,

that ‘every scribe, who is instructed unto the Kingdom of Heaven, will

bring forth out of his treasures things new as well as old.’ The course

taken by those, who lose sight of the guidance offered them in this

saying, can only bring them into a false position.

It is very instructive to observe how circumstances analogous to those,

which existed among the chosen people, at the date of the promulgation

of Christianity, are, at this moment, amongst ourselves producing

analogous effects. We have lately heard those, who are attempting to

make the knowledge, men have now been permitted to attain to, an element

of religion, which is what knowledge must always become in the end,

described as ‘maudlin sentimentalists.’ Precisely the same expression,

motivated by precisely the same feelings, and ideas, might have been

applied with the same propriety, or impropriety, and with the same

certainty of disastrous recoil on those who used it, to the teaching of

the Divine Master Himself. He appealed from the hard, narrow, rigid

forms, in which the old Law had been fossilized, to the sense men had

come to have of what was moral, and needed, and to the knowledge they

had come to have of what was true, under the then advanced conditions of

society and of knowledge. The maintainers of the fossilized Law were for

binding heart and mind fast in the fetters of dogmatic human traditions.

He was for setting mind and heart free by the reception of what was

broad and true; at once human and divine. That alone was desirable,

beneficent, and from God. It blessed, strengthened, emancipated, and

gave peace. No authority, however venerable, could be pleaded against

it. No thrones, principalities, or powers, however exalted, would be

able to withstand it. There was no fear or possibility of its being

refuted: for it was nothing but the perception, and the practical

recognition, of existing knowledge, and of existing conditions. Men,

they might be many, might reject it, but to their own detriment only.

The facts would remain. The rest, all whose eyes were open, or could be

opened, to perceive what was before their eyes, would receive it as from

God. The more it was set in the broad light of day the better. It must

be proclaimed in the highways, and the market-places, and in the Temple

itself. If those who had received it were to hold their peace, the

stones would immediately cry out. It was God’s Truth. It was God’s Word:

not because it was written, for as yet it was not written, but because,

as the Word of God ever had, and ever would, come, it came from the pure

heart, and the enlightened understanding, and approved itself to those,

who had eyes to see, and ears to hear, and hearts to understand. Let

every one examine it. If in that day had been known what is now known of

man’s history, and of nature, and of what is seen of the possibility of

raising men, throughout society, to a higher moral and intellectual

level than was heretofore attainable, we may be sure that there would

have been no attempt to discredit such knowledge, and such aspirations;

and that they would have been urged as extending our knowledge of God,

and of His will; that they would have been appealed to, and that men

would have been called upon to raise themselves to the level of what had

become conceivable, and, conceivably, attainable. At all events, the one

great point, the one paramount duty, was to proclaim what was then seen

to be true. To keep back nothing. To care nothing for the consequences,

in the way of what it might overthrow; to be ready to spend and be spent

for the consequences, in the way of the good it must produce. The

requisite boldness would come to its promulgators from feeling, that it

was God’s work, and that He was on their side. The issue could not be

doubtful. The Gates of Hell could not prevail against the Truth. It was,

notwithstanding its ‘maudlin sentimentality,’ mighty to the pulling down

of strongholds; and went forth conquering, and to conquer. So will it do

again. So will it do ever. The parallelism is complete at every point.

It is only strange that it has not been seen, and dwelt upon, till all

have become familiar with it. The facts, the situation, the ideas, the

hopes and fears, are the same. So, too, is the language needed to

describe them, each and all.

The thoughts, which this chapter outlines, were often, as might be

supposed, in my mind during the little excursion described in the

foregoing pages. They are, as far as I can see, the logical and

inevitable conclusions of the acquaintance some have, such as it may be,

with history and with physical science; and I suppose that travelling

further along the same road would only enable them to see the object to

which it leads with more distinctness. In Switzerland there is much both

in the singularly varied mental condition of the people themselves, and

in the impressive aspects of nature, to confirm them. The narrative,

though its form, in keeping with the particular purpose in which it

originated, is at times somewhat minute, may yet, as things were, for

the most part, seen and regarded through the medium of ideas I have just

referred to, contribute a little to their illustration. It was my wish,

at all events, that my mind and heart should be always open,

unreservedly, to the teaching of all that I saw, both of man and of

nature; but still, I trust, with that caution, and sense of

responsibility, that befit the formation of opinions, by which—for one

is conscious that they are the inner man, the true self—one must stand,

or fall, and in which one must live, and die.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

INDEX.

Aar, 150-2

Aigle, 183

Absenteeism, 43

Agriculture, capital improves, 60.

In the United States, 69.

Burnt stick and hoe eras, 81.

Progress in size of farms, 83-85.

In Alsace, 230

American lads mountaineering, 13

Americans in Switzerland, 200

Animal worship, rationale of, in the ancient Egyptians, 253

Antithesis, an Alpine, 13

Anza, 126

Apostolism, true, 243

Armies of the Romans, 141

Art, place of, in religion, 241

Auroch, 212

Austrian marriages, 100.

Waiter, 244

Avalanches, 22, 158

Blue boy, 13, 16, 141, 142, 154, 163, 164, 171, 184-193

Bonus amicus pro vehiculo, 133

Breakfast at a monster hotel, 195

Bridge, from the present to the future, 260

Brieg, 140

Brienz, 155

Brussels, 247.

Hôtel de Ville, unsatisfactory, 248

Bubble schemes why alluring, 67

Buffers, our labourers have three, 105, 106

Butterflies, 53, 151

Camping out, 177

Capital, power of, in modern societies, 50.

Revolution effected by, 53.

Inversion of land and, 54.

Peel and Gladstone, due to, 55.

A ladder, 56.

Era of, on Visp-side, 50-66.

Will improve agriculture, 61.

Flow of, to the land will counterbalance cities, 62.

Moral and intellectual effects, 63.

Increases size of agricultural concerns, 85.

Size of estates in era of, 94.

Is king, 103.

Essence of all property, 106, 107.

Uses of, discriminated, 108, 109

Carpet, magical bit of, 3

Caterpillar, 53, 127

Cathedral of Metz, 238-242

Ceppo Morelli, 127

Certificates of land-shares, 87, 89, 93, 94

C’est un pauvre pays, 217

Change, modern craving for, 4, 5

Christianity, in what sense a recast of religious thought, 255.

A

modern parallel to the ground taken by first promulgators of, 261-263

Church, value of establishment, 65.

Effect of disestablishment, 97

Cities, land counterpoise to, 62;

and land, 93

Classics, place of, in English education, 222, 223.

Unfairly weighted, 226

Colmar and Mulhouse, cotton industry of, 230

Continuity of human history, 213

Co-operation inapplicable to land, 104-106

Corporate estates, 74, 76, 96

Cost of Swiss travel, 176

Coups manqués of humanity, 202

Cranoges, Irish and Scotch, 210

Curé of Sainte Marie aux Chênes, 235

Danube, Roman road on the banks of the, 126

Dinner, last, in London, 3.

At Macugnaga, 125.

At a monster hotel, 196

Disorder, temporary, permitted at Strasbourg and Metz, 246

Distel, 122

Dogs, why bay the moon, 181

Domo D’Ossola, 128

Drama of the Mountains, 184-193

Drunkenness, how may be discouraged, 85.

Want of drink-water a cause of, 209

Dust, 174

Eclipse, feelings caused by, 182

Edelweiss, 161

Education, property is an, 33.

What would promote, 84.

Spread of, unfavourable to

existing land-system, 97.

Range and method of teaching, 192, 193.

Swiss aims, 218-221.

How applicable, and how not, to us, 221-223.

Sciences of humanity needed, 221, 222.

Imagination should be cultivated, 223.

Place of poetry in, 224

Eggishorn, 143

Elsass, agricultural wealth of, 230

Empire, how retained, 245

Enthusiastic ladies, 200

Establishments, religious, useful under landlordism, 65.

Effect of disestablishment, 97

Etymology of field, 82.

Of Scotland, 247

Expected, what is, seldom happens, 245

Eyes in back of the head, 97

Fallows abandoned, 83

Falls of Frosinone, 135.

Another, 136.

Aar and Handeck, 152.

Staubbach, 152.

Reichenbach, 154

Fee, 116

Field, etymology of, 82

Feudalism, none in our landlordism, 77

Findelen, 17

Fireworks at Interlaken, 164

Flies, 147

Flowers, 14, 18

France, a cause of its wealth, 98.

Insisted on war, 231

French petty proprietors, 105, 106, 110

Frosinone, 135

Fruit, religion is a, 254

Fungus, a Brobdingnagian, 144

Game, 82

Gasteren, 167

Gauter, 139

Gemmi, 167-71

Geneva, Lake of, excavated by glacier, 8

Genius loci, 133

Geology of Rhone Valley, 7.

Of Alpine valleys, 134.

Of Delta of the Kander, 166

German professor, 114.

Travellers, 156, 201.

At Gravelotte, 232-6.

At Metz, 237.

Conquests will be retained, 245

Glacier action, 7.

Bies, 9.

Gorner, 9.

Fee, 116.

Allalein, 119.

Kaltenwasser, 138.

Rhone, 146.

Old Aar, 150.

Grindelwald, 162

Gladstone, the Right Hon. W. E., 55

Gneiss, channel how cut in, 151

God, the focal name, 239

Gondo, 135

Gorner Grat, 12

Government, modern Swiss, 146

Gravelotte, battle of, 232-6

Grimsel, 149

Grindelwald, 160

Guide, 18, 115, 123, 127

Guttanen, 153

Handeck, 151, 152

Health, better to keep than to recover, 183

Helle Platte, 150

History, continuity of, 213

Homer, a simile of his, 178, 183

Honesty, 36, 39

Hornli, 17

Hospice, Simplon, 135.

Grimsel, 148, 149

Hotels, St. Niklaus, 8.

Riffel, 16.

Saas, 115.

Mattmark See, 120.

Macugnaga, 125.

Ponte Grande, 127.

Domo D’Ossola, 128.

Simplon, 135.

Du Glacier du Rhone, 147.

Interlaken, 156.

Grindelwald, 161.

Schwarenbach, 168.

Swiss monster hotels, 194-204.

Zurich, 215.

Metz, 244

Human interest of improved agriculture, 86

Humanity, sciences of, place in education, 221

Humility, true, 216

Ice sent from Grindelwald to Paris, 162.

Ice-field of Bernese Oberland, 174

Ignorance of the day, some address themselves to, but not for the

purpose of removing it, 259

Imagination, place in education, 223.

How to be cultivated, 224

Imhof, 153

Industry, Swiss, 34-8, 46, 129

Intellectual life among peasant proprietors, 32.

Under landlordism, 48.

Under capital, 63, 107

Interlaken, 155, 156

Investments for all, 87, 88

Invidious position, 101, 102

Italians compared to Swiss, 129

Jack of many trades, 118

Joint-stock cultivation of the land, 78-89

Jungfrau, 156-8

Kander, Delta of the, 166

Kandersteg, 167

King, capital is, 103

Kitchen-maids, acquisition and use of capital within reach of, 109

Knights’ fees, number of, 77

Knowledge, what it is, 227.

Grammatical and theological studies obscure, 229.

Its effects on religion, 257

Lake-villages, 210-215

Land, reclamation, and cultivation of, 21.

In Greece and Rome, 51.

In feudal times, 52.

Inversion of land and capital, 54.

Settlement of, prevents distribution, 70.

Joint-stock principle applicable to, 78.

Land mobilised, 88.

Increased value under joint-stock cultivation, 88, 89.

Land and cities, 93.

Size of landed estates in era of capital, 94.

Might be sold subject to rent-charge, 95.

Tendency of things with respect to; corporate estates, 96.

Disestablishment, 97.

Increasing size of estates, 97.

Education, 97.

Perception of cause of wealth of France, 98.

Increase in our population and wealth, 98.

Popular character of modern legislation, 99.

Rise in cost of labour, 99.

How two kinds of wills affect land, 110.

Culture and price of, in Switzerland, 206

Landlordism, 41, 50.

Political effects in Ireland and Scotland, 111

Landowners, advantage to, of joint-stock cultivation of the land, 89.

Diminishing numbers, 97

Lausanne, 3

Lauterbrunnen, 157

Leukabad, 172-174

Life, who scared by phenomena of, 257

Literary and theological training, effects of, 256

Lords of creation, 124

Lothringen, 231

Lowe, Right Hon. R., 65

Luxembourg, 247

Macugnaga, 125

Magician, capital a, 107

Man, conditions antecedent to, 116

Matterhorn, 12, 17, 18

Mattmark See, 119, 120

Meiringen, 153

Men and women highest form of wealth, 32

Methods of teaching, 192, 193

Metz, 230

Money-lords, 55

Monte Leone, 138

Moon on the Jungfrau, 165.

Witchery of the, 179.

Why dogs bay, 181

Moral value of peasant-proprietorship, 34-40.

Under landlordism, 46

Morality, man lives not only by or for, 40

Moro, Monte, 123

Mortmain, history of abolition of, 74.

Its failure, 75

Mother of Curé of Ste. Marie aux Chênes, 235

Mountaineering, 10, 19, 20

Mountains seen face to face, 121

Munster, 144

Museum of Lake-Villages, 210, 215

Myriad-minded, 223

Nature, 192, 225

Nautical felicity, 6

New world’s contributions to old, 7

Niesen, 175

Nonconformity, strength and weakness of, 241, 242

Oberwald, 146

Opinion, how stream of tendency affects, 99

Organisation, religious, 241

Ownership of land, proposed form of, 89

Paganism, modern, 26

Parallelism of the present religious situation and that at the

promulgation of Christianity, 261-263

Paris, 1

Parquetry flooring, 182

Pauper, euthanasia of agricultural, 86

Peak-climbers and pass-men, 10, 18, 175, 199

Peasant-proprietorship, 29-40.

Impossible here, 94.

French, 105, 106, 110

Pedestrianism, pedantry of, 144

Peel, Sir R., 55

Personal worth, 103

Physical science teaches what truth is, 228

Picturesque will not stop advances, 86

Pié de Muléra, 128

Pinus Cembra, 11, 159. Pumilio, 150

Platform road, 126

Poetry of Vale of Grindelwald, 161.

Classical and modern, 224

Pompeii, 52

Ponte Grande, 127

Poor-law, rationale of, 106

Population under peasant-proprietorship, 31.

Under landlordism, 45

Porter and practical man, 156

Possibilities, 27

Post-office, Swiss, 118

Potatovors, Irish, 105, 106

Practical man and porter, 156

Prasias, Lake, 210

Prayers played for, 24

Primogeniture, 90

Property, educational effects of, 33

Prophesying, place of, in religion, 241, 242

Prospects of great proprietors, 100

Railways, delays on Swiss, 138

Récolte des voyageurs, 217

Reichenbach, falls of, 154

Religion, 25.

Its primitive and modern forms, 145.

Relation to art, organisation, and prophesying, 141, 142.

Error and perversion in, 242, 243.

Relation of the knowledge of nature and of man to, 251.

How affected by the conditions of society, 253.

Progressive, 254.

A parellelism, 261-263

Religious establishments, when useful, 64

Rent-charge, land might be sold subject to, 95

Responsibility in the formation of opinions, 264

Revolution, a great but bloodless, 53

Rhone, Delta of Upper, 7.

Source of, 146

Riffel, 11, 16

Rocky mountains, young pines in, 160.

Camping out in, 177

Romanism, decay of, 25, 26.

How uses art, organisation, and prophesying, 241

Saas, 113, 121

Sac, lost, 131

St. Niklaus, 8, 21

Ste. Marie aux Chênes, fight in, 234.

Mother of curé of, 235

Saltine, 139

Saracens, 124

Savings’ bank for all, 87, 109

Scene from Gorner Grat, 12.

Valley of Saas, 113.

Mattmark, 120.

Macugnaga, 125.

Gemmi, 169

Schwartz See, 16, 17

Scotland, a Belgian’s etymology of, 247

Selborne, White of, 4.

Lord, 4, 65

Self, when to be considered, 132.

When not, 243

Sermon on the Riffel, 15.

Effect of fluency and imagination on, 165

Settlement of land prevents distribution, 70.

Action of settled estates, 72.

How preventible, 73

Shawls, fine, better than rugs, 117

Simplon, 131-139

Size of estates in era of capital, 94

Slavery, 82

Society, conditions of, affect religion, 253

Sprite, the reprobate, 203

Spurgeon, Mr., 239, 243

Stalden, 113

Steam culture, 83

Stenches in hotels, 8, 147, 148

Stone age, 81, 211

Strasbourg, 230

Sugar factories, 84

Sun, colourless risings, 175.

Of England has set, 202.

A good sunset, 216, 217

Swiss life in a valley, 23, 29, 40.

Compared with Italians, 129.

Monster hotels, 194-204.

Swiss sights suggestive, 264

Teaching, range and method of, 192, 193

Technical University of Zurich, 218

Tendency of events as respects land, 96

Tents, travelling with, in Switzerland, 177

Testimony, fallibility of, 118

Theology, 256

Thun, 163

Too soon but late at last, 168

Travel, order of, 5

Travellers in monster hotels, 198.

Swiss, classified, 199, 203

Trust-funds, investment proposed for, 89

Twice as clever, 171

United States, answer to a question asked in the, 68

Agriculture of, 69

Urus, 212

Val Anzasca, 126, 129, 130

Valleys, geology of Alpine, 134.

View of Grindelwald, 160

Venice, 210

Verrieres, 2

Villages of Upper Rhone Valley, 144.

Old Lake, 210-215

Vines and vineyards, 205

Virgin, the Holy, at Ste. Marie aux Chênes, 236

Virtue, highest form of, 38

Visp, 8.

Life and religion in Valley of the, 21-27.

Thoughts about land suggested by the Valley of the, 28-112

Voiturier, boorish, 143.

Dilatory, 165.

Payment should depend on time, 166

Water-supply in Switzerland, 206-209.

In England, 207, 208.

Would lessen drunkenness, 209

Waterloo, 248, 249

Weather, 175

Well-being, constituents of, 40

Wengern Alp, 157, 158

Wheat cultivated by Old Lake villagers, 212

White of Selborne, 4

Widows and younger children provided for by landowners, 93

Wife, 5, 142, 162, 168, 171

Wildstrubel, 169

Will strengthened, 139

Wills, two errors with respect to, 110

Wine, 197

Wood-carving, 155

Zermatt, 9, 10, 115

Zmutt glacier, 17

Zurich Museum of lake village antiquities, 210-215.

Modern city, 214.

Technical University, 218

LONDON: PRINTED BY

SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE

AND PARLIAMENT STREET

------------------------------------------------------------------------

BY THE SAME AUTHOR.

* * * * *

_The Duty and Discipline of Extemporary

Preaching._

SECOND EDITION.

C. SCRIBNER & CO., NEW YORK.

* * * * *

_A Winter in the United States_:

Being Table-Talk collected during a Tour through the late Southern

Confederation, the Far West, the Rocky Mountains, &c.

JOHN MURRAY, LONDON.

* * * * *

_Egypt of the Pharaohs and of the Kedivé._

SECOND EDITION. [In the Press.

SMITH, ELDER, & CO., LONDON.

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● Transcriber’s Notes:

○ Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected.

○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.

○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only

when a predominant form was found in this book.

○ Text that:

was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_)).

A month in Switzerland · 第 21 / 21 章