crude tartar, (this is what is deposited by grape wines) 5 gallons
of any wine you wish to represent, 1 pint of sweet milk to settle
it; draw off in 24 or 36 hours after thoroughly mixing.
78. BLACKBERRY AND STRAWBERRY WINES
These are made by taking the above wine when made with port wine;
and for every 10 gallons, form 4 to 6 quarts of the fresh fruit,
bruised and strained, are added, and let it stand till the flavour
is extracted; more or less may be used to suit the tastes of
different persons. In bottling any of those wines 3 or four broken
raisins put into each bottle will add to their richness and flavour.
79. FRENCH BRANDY
Take of pure spirit 1 gallon, best French brandy, or any kind you
wish to imitate, even Otard, 1 quart; loaf sugar 2 oz., sweet
spirits of nitre 1/2 oz., a few drops of tincture of catechu, or oak
bark, to roughen the taste if desired; colour to suit your taste,
and bottle.
80. BRANDY FROM OIL COGNAC
Take of pure spirits 10 gallons, New England rum 2 quarts, or
Jamaica rum 1 quart, and oil cognac from 30 to 40 drops, put in half
a pint of alcohol, colour with tincture of kino, or burned sugar,
which is generally preferred. Mix well and bottle.
81. PALE BRANDY
This is made as the French brandy, using pale instead of the French,
and using 1 oz. of tincture of kino for colour, only for 5 gallons.
82. CHERRY BRANDY
To every 10 gallons of brandy add 3 quarts of wild black cherries,
stones and all bruised, and crushed sugar 2 lbs. Let it stand until
the strength and flavour is obtained, and draw from it as wanted for
use. Never attempt to use oil of bitter almonds for this purpose,
instead of the cherries, for it is a most deadly poison.
83. BLACKBERRY BRANDY
Take of brandy 10 gallons, nice rich blackberries mashed from 4 to 6
quarts, according to the degree of flavour you wish. Mix and add a
little sugar to overcome the acidity of the berries, according to
their ripeness will the amount vary from one to 4 oz. to each
gallon.
84. STRAWBERRY BRANDY
This is made as the above, using very nice ripe strawberries, and
only about half the quantity of sugar.
[There are no entries for receipts 85, 86 and 87 in the original.]
88. HOLLAND GIN
Take of pure spirits 1 gallon, best Holland gin, schnapps, or any
kind desired, 1 quart, oil of juniper 2 scruples, oil of anise 1/4
oz.; mix all well together.
89. COLOURING
Take of white sugar 1 lb., put it into an earthen kettle, moisten
a little, let boil, and burn red, black and thick, remove from the
fire and put in a little hot water to keep it from hardening as
it cools. Use this to colour any liquors, needing colour, to your
taste, or as near the colour of the liquor you imitate as you can.
Tincture of kino is a good colour, and is made by dissolving 1 oz.
of kino in a pint of alcohol. For a cherry red use tincture of
saffron; for light amber to deep brown use sugar colouring; for
brandy colour, sugar; for red use beet root or saunders; for port
wine colour use extract of rhatany.
90. TO KEEP SWEET AND SWEETEN SOUR CIDER
To keep cider sweet take a keg, put several holes in the bottom of
it, and a piece of woollen cloth at the bottom, then fill with pure
sand closely packed, then pass your cider through this, and put up
in clean barrels that have had a piece of cotton or linen cloth 2 by
6 inches, dipped in sulphur, and burned in them, then keep in a cool
place and add 1/2 lb. of white mustard seed to each barrel. If cider
is souring, about 1 quart of hickory ashes, (or a little more of
other hard wood ashes), stirred into each barrel, will sweeten and
clarify it, nearly equal to rectifying; but if it is not rectified
it must be racked off to get clear of pomace, for while this is in
it, it will remain sour. Oil or whiskey barrels are best to put up
cider in, or 1/2 pint of sweet oil, or a gallon of whiskey, or both
may be added to a barrel with decidedly good effects. Isinglass 4
oz. to each barrel helps to clarify and settle cider that is not
going to be rectified.
91. SCHRUB
Take of lemon juice 1 pint, white sugar 2 pints, rum 3 pints, water
4 pints; mix and colour ready for use.
92. STOUGHTON BITTERS
Take of gentian 4 oz., orange peel 4 oz., columbo 4 oz., chamomile
flowers 4 oz., quassia 4 oz., burned sugar 1 lb., whiskey 2-1/2
galls., water 2-1/2 galls,; mix and let stand one week, then bottle
the clear liquor.
93. TO IMPROVE THE FLAVOUR OF NEW WHISKEY
Take of whiskey 1 gall., add tea 4 oz., allspice 4 oz., caraway seed
4 oz., cinnamon 2 oz., shake occasionally for a week and use one
pint to a barrel. Keep this mixture in a jug.
94. CHERRY BOUNCE OR BRANDY
Take 10 galls. of good whiskey, put into it from 4 to 6 quarts of
wild black cherries with the stones broken, common almonds shelled
1 lb., white sugar 1-1/2 lb., cinnamon 1/2 oz., nutmeg 1/2 oz., all
bruised. Let stand 12 or 13 days and draw off; this, with the
addition of 2 galls. of brandy, make very nice cherry brandy.
95. MONONGAHALE
Take of good common whiskey 36 gall., dried peaches 2 quarts,
rye, burned and ground as coffee, 1 quart, cinnamon, cloves, and
allspice, bruised, of each 1 oz., loaf sugar 5 lbs., sweet spirits
of nitre 2 oz., put all these articles into 4 galls. of pure
spirits, and shake every day for a week, then draw off through a
woollen cloth, and add the whole to the 36 galls. of whiskey.
96. RYE WHISKEY
Take of dried peaches 1/2 a peck, put them into a pan in a stove,
scorch a little, not to burn however, then bruise, and place in
a woollen (pointed) bag, and leach good common whiskey over them
twice, having the barrel up so as to hang the bag under the faucet
and draw slowly over them; this is for a barrel. Add 10 or 12 drops
of aqua ammonia to each barrel, after leaching through the peaches;
with age this is nearly, if not quite, equal to whiskey made from
rye.
97. STOMACH BITTERS
Take of gentian root 6 oz., orange peel 10 oz., cinnamon 1 oz.,
anise seed 2 oz., coriander seed 2 oz., cardamom seed 1/2 oz.,
Peruvian bark, unground, 2 oz., bruise all the articles and add
of gum kino 1 oz., and put them into 2 quarts of alcohol, and two
quarts of pure spirits or good whiskey; shake occasionally for 10
or 12 days, and strain or filter through several thicknesses of
woollen. Half a pint of this may be added to a gallon of whiskey,
more or less, as desired, and you have an article as good, or
better, and more healthy than that for which you will pay three
times as much; or you may use it the same as stoughton, to which
it is preferred.
98. PEPPERMINT CORDIAL
Take of good whiskey 10 galls., water 10 galls., white sugar 10
lbs., oil of peppermint 1 oz., flour 1 oz., burned sugar 1/2 lb. to
colour, alcohol 1 pint; put the oil of peppermint in the alcohol,
then with this work the flour well, add the burned sugar, work
again, and mix all the ingredients together; let them stand a week
and they are ready for use. If you wish a different flavour from
that of oil of peppermint use any other oil of which you desire
the flavour.
99. ST. CROIX RUM
Take of pure spirits 28 galls., of pure St. Croix run 3 galls.,
sal-ammonia (cut in alcohol) 1 OZ., sweet spirits of nitre 6 ozs.,
mix all together and let stand for 24 hours, occasionally shaking,
and it is ready for use.
100. LEMONADE
Take of fresh lemon juice 4 oz., fresh lemon peel 1/2 oz., white
sugar 4 oz., boiling water 3 pints; mix all together; let them stand
till cool, and then strain off for use; if you wish you can cool at
once with ice. Where this is used as a cooling drink in fevers a
little sweet spirits of nitre may be added.
101. A BRILLIANT WHITEWASH
This bears a gloss like ivory, and will not rub off. Take of clean
unslacked lime 5 or 6 quarts, slack with hot water in a tub, cover
to keep in the steam; when ready, pass it through a fine sieve, and
add 1/4 lb. of whiting, 1 lb. of good sugar pulverized, and 3 pints
of rice flour, first made into a thin paste; boil this mixture
well, then dissolve 1 lb. of clean glue in water, and add it to the
mixture, and apply while warm with a whitewash brush, except when
particular neatness is required you may then use a paint brush; in
both cases put it on warm. You may add colouring matter to give it
any shade you please.
102. CHANGING VARNISHES
Varnishes of this description are call changing because, when
applied to metals such as copper, brass, or tin or silver foil, they
give them a more agreeable colour; indeed, the common metals, when
coated with them acquired a lustre approaching to that of the
precious metals, and hence these varnishes are much employed in
manufacturing imitations of gold and silver. Put four ounces of the
best gum gamboge into 32 ozs. of spirits of turpentine, 4 ozs. of
dragon's blood into the same quantity of spirits of turpentine as
the gamboge, and 1 oz. of anatto into 8 ozs. of the same spirits.
The three mixtures being made in different vessels, they should then
be kept for about a fortnight in a warm place, and as much exposed
to the sun a possible; at the end of that time they will be fit for
use; and you can procure any tints you wish by making a composition
from them, with such proportions of each liquor as practice and the
nature of the colour you are desirous of obtaining will point out.
Changing varnishes may likewise be employed, with very good effect,
for furniture, such as picture frames, &c.--See Lackers.
103. GOLD LACKER OR VARNISH
In using the changing varnish or any of these lackers, for picture
frames for instance, lay them over with tin or silver leaf, by means
of plaster of Paris glue, or cement of some kind, that the foil may
be perfectly adherent to the wood, then apply your varnish; apply as
many coats as may suit your taste, and if it be the gold lacker you
use it has the appearance of being laid with gold leaf, and if the
pale brass lacker, of being laid with brass, &c., and if you use
the changing varnish you may make it just what colour you wish, by
mixing the three materials in different proportions. For making gold
lacker, put into a clean 4 gallon tin 1 lb. ground turmeric, 1-1/2
oz. powdered gamboge, 3-1/2 lbs. powdered gum sandrack, 3/4 lb.
shellac, and 2 galls. spirits of wine; after being dissolved and
strained add 1 pint of turpentine varnish, receipt No. 112, well
mixed, and it is ready for use.
104. RED SPIRIT LACKER
Take 2 galls. spirits of wine, 1 lb. dragon's blood, 3 lbs. Spanish
annatto, 3-1/2 lbs. gum sandrack, 2 pints turpentine. Made exactly
as the gold lacker.
105. PALE BRASS LACKER
Take 2 galls. spirits of wine, 3 ozs. cape aloes, cut small, 1 lb.
fine pale shellac, 1 oz. gamboge, cut small, no turpentine. Varnish
made exactly as before, but observe, that those who make lackers
frequently want some paler and some darker and sometimes inclining
more to the particular tint of certain of the component ingredients;
therefore if a 4 oz. vial of a strong solution of each ingredient be
prepared, a lacker of any tint can be prepared at any time as by
changing varnish.
106. DEMAR VARNISH
This is a fine clear varnish, being harder and less coloured than
mastic, while it is as soluble, and may be had at one-tenth the
price. Put 6 oz. of gum demar in a bottle with 10 ozs. of spirits of
turpentine, and put into another bottle 6 ozs. of gum demar, with
16 ozs. alcohol, when they are dissolved put them together, and you
have an excellent cheap varnish which dries quickly and is very
clear.
107. COPAL VARNISH
Take 1 oz. of copal, and 1/2 oz. of shellac, powder them well and
put them into a bottle or jar containing 1 quart of spirits of wine;
place the mixture in a warm place and shake it occasionally, till
you see that the gums are completely dissolved, and when strained
the varnish is fit for use.
108. WHITE HARD VARNISH
Take 1 lb. of mastic, 4 oz. of gum anima; and 5 lbs. of gum
sandrack, put them all together to dissolve, into a vessel
containing 2 oz. of rectified spirits of wine, which should be kept
in a warm place and frequently shaken till all the gums are quite
dissolved; then strain the mixture through a lawn sieve, and it will
be fit for use.
109. CRYSTAL VARNISH
Procure a bottle of Canada balsam, which can be had at any
druggist's; draw out he cork and set the bottle of balsam at a
little distance from the fire, turning it round several times, until
the heat has thinned it; then have something that will hold as much
as double the quantity of balsam; carry the balsam from the fire,
and, while fluid mix it with the same quantity of good turpentine,
and shake them together until they are well incorporated. In a few
days the varnish is fit for use, particularly if it is poured into a
half gallon glass or stone bottle, and kept in a gentle warmth. This
varnish is used for maps, prints, charts, drawings, paper,
ornaments, &c.
110. BLACK VARNISH FOR OLD STRAW OR CHIP HATS
Take a 1/2 oz. of the best black sealing wax, pound it well, and put
it into a 4 oz. vial, containing 2 ozs. of rectified spirits of
wine; place it in a sand-bath or near a moderate fire till the wax
is dissolved, then lay it on warm, with a fine soft hairbrush,
before a fire or in the sun. It gives a good stiffness to old straw
hats, and a beautiful gloss equal to new. It likewise resists wet.
111. VARNISH FOR VIOLINS &c.
Take 1 gallon of rectified spirits of wine, 12 ozs. of mastic, and
1 pint of turpentine varnish; put them altogether in a tin can, and
keep it in a very warm place, shaking it occasionally till it is
perfectly dissolved; then strain it, and it is fit for use. If you
find it necessary, you may dilute it with turpentine varnish. This
varnish is also very useful for furniture of plumtree, mahogany, or
rosewood.
112. TURPENTINE VARNISH
Take 5 lbs. of clear good resin, pound it well, and put it into 1
gallon of oil of turpentine; boil the mixture over a stove till the
resin is perfectly dissolved, and when cool, it will be fit for use.
113. IRON WORK BLACK OR BLACK VARNISH FOR IRON
Put 48 lbs. asphaltum into an iron pot, and boil for four hours;
during the first two hours, introduce 7 lbs. litharge, 3 lbs. dried
copperas, and 10 gallons boiled oil; add 1/8 lb. run of dark gum,
with 2 gallons hot oil; after pouring the oil and gum, continue the
boiling two hours, or until it will roll into hard pills like Japan;
when cool, thin it off with three gallons of turpentine, or until it
is of proper consistence. This varnish is intended principally for
the iron work of coaches and other carriages.
114. VARNISH FOR HARNESS
Take 1/2 lb. of india rubber, 1 gallon of spirits of turpentine;
dissolve enough to make it into a jelly by keeping it almost new
milk warm; then take equal quantities of good linseed oil, (in a hot
state,) and the above mixture, incorporate them well on a slow fire,
and it is fit for use.
115. QUICK DRYING HARNESS BLACKING VARNISH
Break 1/2 cake (which is about 1 ounce) of white wax into an earthen
pan, and just cover it with oil of turpentine; place a board over
the pan to keep out the air; let it stand for 24 hours or until
formed into a paste; then in another pan, mix 1 lb. of best ivory
black with neatsfoot oil, until it assumes a thick consistency; then
mix the contents of both pans together. It may be reduced with
spirits of turpentine. Bottle, and it is fit for use.
116. OIL PASTE BLACKING
Take oil vitriol, 2 ozs., tanners oil, 5 ozs., ivory black, 2 lbs.,
molasses, 5 ozs; mix the oil and vitriol together, let it stand a
day, then add the ivory black, the molasses, and the white of an
egg; mix well, and it is ready for use.
117. WATER PROOF OIL OR PASTE BLACKING
Take 1 pint of camphene, and put into it all the india rubber it
will dissolve, 1 pint currier's oil, 7 lbs. tallow, and 2 ozs. of
lampblack; mix thoroughly by heat. This is a nice thing for old
harness and carriage tops, as well as for boots and shoes.
118. BEST VARNISH BLACKING EXTANT
Take of alcohol, 1 gallon; white turpentine, 1-1/2 lbs.; gum shellac
1-1/2 lbs.; venice turpentine, 1 gill; let these stand in a jug in
the sun, or by a stove, until the gums are dissolved; then add sweet
oil, 1 gill; lampblack, 2 oz., and you have a varnish that will not
crack when the harness is twisted like the old shellac varnish. It
is good also for boots and shoes, looking well, and turns water.
119. ASPHALTUM OR WALNUT STAIN
Take of asphaltum, 2 lbs.; boiled linseed oil, 1/2 pint; spirits of
turpentine, 1 gallon; mix the two first in an iron pot, boil slowly
until the asphaltum is melted, then take it some distance from the
fire, cool a little, and add the turpentine (avoiding ignition)
before it cools too much, and it is finished.
120. POLISH FOR OLD FURNITURE
Take 1 pint best spirits of wine, 1 pint raw linseed oil, 1 pint
spirits of turpentine; mix all three together, and shake well
before use. Apply with a rubber of cotton wool covered with a piece
of clean old white cotton cloth. Apply slightly and you will be
astonished at the effect. Old furniture that is scratched, soiled,
or stained, if the wood is not torn up, being polished with this,
has the appearance of new.
121. OIL TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW AND CURL
Take of olive oil 1/2 a pint, oils of rosemary and origanum, of each
1/8 of an oz. Mix well and apply rather freely.
122. BEST SHAVING SOAP
Take 4-1/2 lbs. white bar soap, 1 quart rain water, 1 gill of beef's
gall, and 1 gill spirits of turpentine; cut the soap thin, and boil
five minutes, stir while boiling, and colour with 1/2 oz. of
vermillion; scent with oil of rose or almonds. 10 cents worth will
positively make $6 worth of soap.
123. NEW YORK BARBERS' STAR HAIR OIL
Take of castor oil, 6-1/2 pints; alcohol, 1-1/2 pint; citronella and
lavender oils, of each 2 ozs.; mix and shake well, and it is ready
for use.
124. ROWLAND'S MACASSAR HAIR OIL
Take of sweet oil, 8 ozs.; cantharides and oil of lemon, of each 60
drops; alkanet sufficient to colour it.
125. ROSE HAIR OIL
Take 1 quart olive oil, 2-1/2 ozs. alcohol, 1-1/2 ozs. rose oil;
after this tie 1 oz. of chipped alkanet root in 3 or 4 little muslin
bags, and let them lie in the oil until a pretty red is manifested,
then change them to other oil. do not press them.
126. BEAR'S OIL
Take of good sweet lard oil, 1 quart; bergamot, 1 ounce; mix well
together.
127. OX MARROW FOR THE HAIR
Take of ox marrow, 4 ozs.; white wax, 1 oz.; nice fresh lard, 6 ozs;
mix and melt; when cool, add 1-1/2 ozs. oil of bergamot, and mix well.
128. COLOGNE
Take oils of rosemary and lemon, of each, 1/4 oz.; oils of bergamot
and lavender, of each, 1/8 oz.; oil of cinnamon, 8 drops; oils of
cloves and rose, of each 15 drops; best alcohol, 2 quarts; mix and
shake 2 or 3 times a day for a week. This will be better if
deoderized, or cologne alcohol is used.
129. HARD SOAP
Take of soft soap, 12 lbs.; (that made of olive oil is best,) common
salt, 9 lbs.; mix and boil for 2 hours, run it into bars, or as you
want it, and you will have 7-1/2 lbs. of soap. Add a little resin
when you melt it over. Scent with fragrant oil if you wish to do so.
130. BAR SOAP
Take of lime water 1 teacupful, spirits of turpentine 2
teaspoonsful, resin 1/2 lb., sal. soda 1-1/2 lbs., of bar shop soap
4 lbs.; melt and boil all together to a proper consistency, then
pour into moulds.
131. CARVER'S POLISH
In a pint of spirits of wine dissolve 2 oz. of seed lac, and 2 oz.
of resin. The principal use of this polish is for the carved parts
of cabinet work, such as standards, pillars, claws, &c. It should be
laid on warm, and it will be still better; but all moisture and
dampness should be carefully avoided.
132. FRENCH POLISH
Take 1 oz. of shellac, 1/4 oz. of gum-arabic, and 1/4 oz. of gum
copal; bruise them well, and sift them through a piece of muslin,
then put them along with a pint of spirits of win into a closely
corked vessel, place it in a very warm situation, and shake it
frequently every day till the gums are dissolved, then strain
through a piece of muslin, and keep it corked for use.
133. WATER-PROOF POLISH
Put 2 ozs. of gum benjamin, 1/4 oz. of gum sandrac, and 1/4 oz. of
gum anima, into a pint of spirits of wine, in a closely stopped
bottle, place the bottle either in a sand bath, or in hot water,
till the gums are dissolved, then strain off the mixture, shake it
up with a 1/4 of a gill of the best clear poppy oil, and put by for
use.
134. FINISHING POLISH
Put 2 drachms of shellac, and 2 drachms of gum benjamin, into 1/2
pint of the very best rectified spirits of wine, in a bottle
closely corked; keep the bottle in a warm place, and shake it
frequently till the gums are dissolved, when cold shake up with it
2 teaspoonsful of the best clear poppy oil, and it will be fit for
use. This polish may be applied with great advantage after any
of those mentioned in the foregoing receipts have been used. It
removes the defects existing in them, increasing their lustre and
durability, and gives the surface a most brilliant appearance.
135. COMPOSITION USED IN WELDING CAST STEEL
Take of borax, 10 parts; sal-ammoniac, 1 part; grind or pound them
roughly together, then fuse them in a metal pot over a close fire,
taking care to continue the heat until all spume has disappeared
from the surface, when the liquid appears clear, the composition is
ready to be poured out to cool and concrete; afterward being ground
to a fine powder. To use this composition, the steel to be welded is
raised to a heat, which may be expressed by bright yellow, it is
then dipped among the welding powder, and again placed in the fire
until it attains the same degree of heat as before, it is then ready
to be placed under the hammer.
136. COMPOSITION USED IN WELDING CAST IRON
Take good clear white course sand, 3 parts; refined solton, 1 part;
fosterine, 1 part; rock salt 1 part; borax, 1 part; mix all
together. Take 2 pieces of cast iron, heat them in a moderate
charcoal fire, occasionally taking them out while heating, and
dipping them into the composition, until they are of a proper heat
to weld, then at once lay them on the anvil, and gently hammer them
together, and if done carefully by one who understands welding iron,
you will have them nicely welded together. One man prefers heating
the metal, then cooling it in the water of common beans, and heating
it again for welding.
137. CAST IRON CEMENT
Take of clean borings or turning of cast iron, 16 parts; of
sal-ammoniac, 2 parts; and flour of sulphur, 1 part; mix them well
together on a mortar, and keep them dry. When required for use,
take 1 part of the mixture, and 20 parts of clean borings, mix
thoroughly, and add a sufficient quantity of water. Note.--A little
grindstone added improves the cement.
138. CASE HARDENING
This is the conversion of the surface of wrought iron into steel,
for the purpose of adapting it to receive a polish, or to bear
friction, &c. The best method in the world of effecting this is by
heating the iron to cherry red in a close vessel, in contact with
carbonacious material, and then plunging it into cold water. Bones,
leather, hoofs, and horns of animals, are best for this purpose,
after having been burnt or roasted, so that they can be pulverized.
Soot is very frequently used; it answers, but not so well.
139. TO SOFTEN IRON OR STEEL
Either of the following simple methods will make iron or steel as
soft as lead: 1. Anoint it all over with tallow, temper it in a
gentle charcoal fire, and let it cool of itself. 2. Take a little
clay, cover your iron with it, temper in a charcoal fire. 3. When
the iron or steel is red hot, strew hellebore on it. 4. Quench the
iron or steel in the juice, or water, of common beans.
140. SOLDER FOR LEAD
Melt 1 part of block tin, and when in a state of fusion, add 2 parts
of lead; if a small quantity of this, when melted, is poured upon
the table, there will, if it be good, arise little bright stars upon
it. Resin should be used with this solder.
141. SOLDER FOR TIN
Take 4 parts of pewter, 1 of tin, and 1 of bismuth, melt them
together, and run them into thin slips. Resin is also employed in
using this solder.
142. SOLDER FOR IRON
The best solder for iron is good tough brass, with a little borax.
143. SOLDER FOR COPPER
Take of brass, 6 parts; zinc, 1 part; tin, 1 part; melt all
together, mix well, and pour out to cool.
144. SOLDER FOR STEEL JOINTS
Silver, 19 parts; copper, 1 part; brass, 2 parts; melt all together.
145. HARD SOLDER
Fuse together 2 parts of copper, and 1 of zinc.
146. SOLDER FOR SILVER
Fuse together 5 parts of silver, and 1 part of brass.
147. GOLD SOLDER No. 1
Take of gold, 4 parts; silver, 3 parts; copper 1 part; and zinc,
1 part.
148. GOLD SOLDER No. 2
Take of gold, 3 parts; silver, 3 parts; copper, 1 part; zinc,
1/2 part.
149. GOLD SOLDER No. 3
Take of gold, 2 parts; silver, 3 parts; copper, 1 part; and zinc 1/2
a part.