[Illustration: T. J. MCCONNAUGHAY.]
PART FIRST
Barbers' Manual
PART SECOND
Text Book on Taxidermy
By T. J. McConnaughay
PRICE, $1.25
Copyrighted and all rights reserved by author.
Chicago, Ill., 1898.
Preface.
By way of explaining the dual character of this little book, we here
indulge a few brief introductory remarks.
Part First is designed simply as a manual of instruction for barbers,
and we hope it will, in a valuable measure, supply a long felt need. It
will prove especially beneficial to the younger and less experienced
members of our craft.
The best artisans and artists admit they owe much to the accumulated
knowledge and experience of both their predecessors and their
contemporaries. Indeed, to assert any claim to advanced knowledge and
skill, without due acknowledgements for the help received from others
would savor of an inexcusable egotism. The man who professes to be a
self-made man is always notorious for worshiping his maker.
We should, of course, always put our own impress upon all our work. Our
observations on the methods of others should supplement but not supplant
our own originality and our own reason. A noted artist when asked how he
mixed his paints to achieve such wonderful results, replied: “I mix them
with brains.”
So must we use our own brains as well as the brains of others, if we
would succeed in this day of rapid improvements and sharp competition.
The information given in this book is not guess work, but the result of
long years of study and practice. Thirty-one years have I conducted a
shop of my own. During these years every recipe here given has been
thoroughly tested. We know they are all good.
Part Second is devoted to taxidermy, which for twenty-three years I have
connected with my other shop work. I have preserved and sold hundreds of
specimens, and this work has proven a source of much pleasure and
profit, enabling me to turn many otherwise idle moments into money.
On this line I have not confined myself to taxidermic work alone, but
have also connected the tanning of hides with the hair on, which I have
manufactured into mats, rugs, etc.
Hence this little book, under a twofold title, practically includes
three trades.
We offer it as a money saving and money making investment. The recipes
and other information contained herein will enable any barber to make
all his own preparations, and to manufacture them for sale. He may also
connect taxidermy and tanning if it suit his pleasure and business.
Historic Sketch.
The word barber is derived from the Latin word “barba,” which means
beard, and hence is applied to one whose occupation is to shave and trim
beards and cut hair. The barber's craft is a very ancient one. The
practice of shaving was common among the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and
Romans; and was even mentioned by the prophet Ezekiel, chapter v, 1st
verse. Among the ancient Israelites the removal of the beard by shaving
or plucking was a sign of mourning. It would seem that the origin of our
trade was prehistoric.
In early times barbering was conjoined with surgery, and the barber also
served the public in the capacity of surgeon. In France the
barber-chirurgeons, or barber-surgeons, were separated from the
perruquiers, or wig-makers, and were incorporated as a distinct body in
the latter part of the 17th century. In England barbers were
incorporated with special privileges in 1461, and were afterwards united
to the society of surgeons, but were confined to the minor operations of
blood letting and drawing teeth. In 1745 an act was passed, the preamble
of which declared the trade of the barber and the profession of surgery
are foreign to and independent of each other.
This act practically divorced surgery from the barber's chair. However,
quite recently the surgeons of the Swedish navy were also barbers for
the crew. In former times, not far remote, it was customary to keep a
lute or a violin for the entertainment of patrons, which made the shop a
favorite resort for idle persons. In China and some other oriental
countries, barbers not only shave the face, but they also shave the
whole or a part of the head.
BARBER'S SIGN.
Though barbering is now entirely separated from surgery, yet a monument
of their former union may be still seen in the striped pole and basin so
often projecting from the front of barber shops.
The fillet, or spiral strip around the pole symbolizes the winding of a
ribbon round the arm previous to letting blood, and its red color
symbolizes the blood. The basin, yet sometimes seen at the base,
represents a vessel prepared to catch the blood.
Barber's poles in this country are tri-colored. The white symbolizes the
arm, the red represents the shed blood, while Americans have added the
blue to complete our national colors.
Recipes, Formulas, Etc.
GERMAN HAIR DYE.
The process here given comprehends a double formula, and to insure
satisfactory results, the directions subjoined should be carefully
followed.
No. 1.
Nitrate of Silver 3 drachms
Stronger Water of Ammonia ½ ounce
Distilled or Rain Water ½ ounce
No 2.
Pyrogallic Acid 3 drachms
Alcohol ½ ounce
Distilled or Rain Water 6 ounces
DIRECTIONS.—Formula No. 1, and formula No. 2, should each be put up in a
separate bottle.
In compounding, each of the first two ingredients should be combined and
reduced to a solution and the water then added.
Before using these preparations the beard or hair should first be
thoroughly washed and dried.
Then apply No. 1 with the fingers, and when partly dried apply No. 2
with a tooth brush and a comb, being careful to get the dye down to the
skin. If convenient let the party go out into the open air for an hour.
Otherwise the hair should be thoroughly dried with a fan, and washed
with soap and soft water. This formula was brought from Germany by a St.
Louis barber and sold to the author in 1869. Properly put up it is not
only first-class, but I have never found any other preparation equal to
it.
BROWN HAIR DYE.
Take four pounds of green walnut hulls. Put them in 1½ gallons soft
water and boil down to three pints. Strain off through cloth until clear
of sediment. To one quart of this add one quart of alcohol, and 3 ounces
of glycerine. Use as other restorers, once a day until the desired shade
is obtained. The hulls should be gathered in August.
QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM.
The strong point in favor of this preparation as a sea-foam is that it
acts at the same time as a tonic for the hair.
FORMULA.
Alcohol 1 pint
Glycerine ½ ounce
Tincture of Cantharides ½ ounce
Aqua Ammonia ½ ounce
Sulphate of Quinine 30 grains
Oil of Cloves 1 drachm
Rock salt (or table salt) ¼ ounce
Distilled or rain water 1 pint
DIRECTIONS.—When using as a sea-foam, wet the hair and rub briskly with
finger ends until the foam has disappeared. Then take a towel and rub
partly dry.
When using as a dandruff cure, sea-foam twice a week, dampen the hair
twice a day for two weeks, after which use once a week as a sea-foam.
This will keep the scalp in fine condition.
After you have tried it you will use no other.
CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE.
This recipe was given me by a druggist whom I have known for years. Its
reliable and competent source is a sufficient guarantee:
FORMULA.
Quince seed ¼ ounce
Distilled extract witch hazel 1 pint
Glycerine ¼ pint
Alcohol ¼ pint
Powdered Boracic Acid 160 grains
Carbolic Acid 32 drops
Perfume to suit.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—First put quince seed in witch hazel and let
stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through cheese cloth and add the
other ingredients. I know this to be good for the face after shaving.
PYTHIAN CREAM.
This is another preparation for the face and hands.
FORMULA.
Gum Tragacanth (in flake) ½ ounce
Glycerine 4 ounces
Distilled or rain water ½ gallon
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.—Put gum tragacanth in water and let stand till
thoroughly dissolved, and strain through a cheese cloth. Then add the
glycerine and a sufficient amount of Pythian bouquet to perfume. Color
pink with powdered carmine. It should be about the consistency of cream.
If too thick add more water. There should be a half-gallon water to the
four ounces of glycerine when finished.
BAY CREAM.
The only difference between this and Pythian Cream is in the perfume.
Some like the bay rum better.
DIRECTIONS.—Use the formula of the preceding and then add perfume with
the genuine oil of bay.
COLD CREAM.
The only difference between this and the two preceding creams is that
instead of perfume a compound of alcohol and menthol is used.
DIRECTIONS.—Use the same body as for Pythian Cream, and then add alcohol
and menthol as follows:
Put 6 drachms of menthol crystals into an ounce of alcohol. When the
menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this combination to ½ gallon of the
cream. The presence of the menthol gives this preparation a very
pleasant cooling effect. Hence it is well named. This cream may, of
course, be perfumed if desirable.
Instead of these face creams, some customers will prefer the pure bay
rum, while perhaps many will prefer witch hazel. These can, of course,
be obtained from barber supply houses or from drug stores; the witch
hazel may be improved by adding to it a good cologne. Try two parts
witch hazel to one part cologne.
BAY RUM.
No. 1.
Bay Oil ½ ounce
Oil of Pimento ¼ ounce
Alcohol 3 pints
Water 3 pints
No. 2.
Magnesium ¼ pound
Oil of Bay ¼ pound
Mash them well together and put them in a filter and pour in two quarts
of water. Let it filter slowly, and then add 2 quarts Alcohol.
IMITATION OF BAY RUM.
No. 3.
Oil of Bay 3 drachms
Oil Pimento ½ drachm
Water 1½ quarts
Acetic Ether 1½ ounces
Alcohol 2 quarts
Mix and let stand 3 days, then filter.
CAMPHOR ICE.
Oil of Sweet Almonds 2½ ounces
White Wax 2½ ounces
Spermaceti 3½ ounces
Gum Camphor ¾ ounces
Mix together, melt and pour off in small salve boxes.
MENTHOL SALVE.
Mutton Tallow 1 ounce
Lard 1 ounce
Menthol (in crystals) 3 drachms
Melt together and pour off in salve boxes.
Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol salve are good for tender faces.
SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO.
This is an economic and very satisfactory preparation.
FORMULA.
White Castile Soap (the very best) 1 pound
Refined Carbonate of Potash ¾ pound
Distilled or rain water 1 gallon
Table Salt ½ ounce
Refined Carbonate of Potash is also called Pure Salts of Tartar. I have
found the English brands preferable.
DIRECTIONS.—Shave the soap fine and put into the water (as per above
formula), which should be contained in a porcelain vessel.
Let it boil until soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into
another vessel, and then add the pure salts of tartar while still hot.
Add the salt and enough more boiling water to replace the amount which
has boiled away, and continue to stir until it becomes only luke warm;
then add a few drops of the oil of cloves (or some other perfume), if
desirable. Finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away for use. 1
gallon made in this way will make 5 gallons of ordinary shampoo, by
simply adding 4 gallons more of water. This quantity should not cost
over fifty cents. A pound of the refined carbonate of potash costs
twenty cents, and a pound of castile soap only fifteen cents, and the
perfume will cost less than the remainder of 50 cents.
One teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary suit of hair.
In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little ethylic ether,
commonly called sulphuric ether. Never use hard water. If necessary save
up enough rain water. I give elsewhere directions for making shampooing
outfit, which may also be conveniently used for shower baths in shops
and houses where there is no connection with water works. Water to be
used for shampooing should always be warm.
EGG SHAMPOO.
This favorite preparation should be used immediately after mixing.
Take 1 fresh egg, 1 teaspoonful of silver gloss shampoo, and ¼
teaspoonful of powdered borax. Mix together with an egg beater, and then
use as other shampoos.
A CHEAP SEA FOAM.
Take 2 ounces of the silver gloss shampoo, 2 ounces alcohol, 1 ounce
glycerine and 1 pint water; shake well together and perfume to suit your
fancy.
The shampoo or sea-foam can be colored a nice yellow by making a tea of
saffron and water, adding enough after straining it to get the desired
color. Powdered carmine can also be used to color a red or pink color.
BRILLIANTINE.
Take 1 ounce of good glycerine, ¼ ounce of rose geranium and 1 ounce
water. Mix. This preparation is a good one, and can be made very cheap
by using a less amount of the perfume. It never separates, and is good
as long as there is a drop of it left.
ENGRAVING FLUIDS.
We here give a formula for making an etching fluid, to be used in
marking razors, shears and other steel tools.
FORMULA.
Bluestone 1 ounce
Table Salt 1 ounce
Water 6 ounces
DIRECTIONS.—Cover blade or plate with soap or varnish, and then with
etching needle or common pencil write the name or letters desired, being
careful to score or scratch through to the metal. Then fill the traced
lines with the fluid and let it remain five minutes. The fluid will
corrode the metal in the lines thus laid bare. Therefore when the
covering and acid are washed off the lettering will remain.
Be careful to wash promptly and dry thoroughly.
BLACK HEADS.
What are known as black heads are generally found in the skin of people
who are addicted to the use of much hog meat. Such people are also as a
rule, rather careless, to say the least, about bathing their faces. A
hint to the wise will be sufficient. Let them not be afraid a rough
towel will scratch them. I give below a recipe highly recommended.
FORMULA.
Alcohol 4 ounces
Boracic Acid 2 drachms
Distilled or rain water 1½ ounces
Apply this three times per day after first having thoroughly washed the
face and rubbing dry with a coarse towel. Considerable benefit will, at
least, be derived from a faithful application of the above.
HAIR BLEACHING.
First clean the hair with the Silver Gloss shampoo, and when dry apply
peroxide of hydrogen until damp. When dry, again repeat the application,
and continue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired.
The hair will continue to bleach a little lighter for about three days,
and hence it is necessary to discontinue the application when the hair
is a shade darker than desired.
WHITENING FOR THE FACE.
Put 1 ounce of the oxide of zinc into a plate and pour over it 3 ounces
of soft water. Mash zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved. Pour
the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with witch hazel. When the
weather is cold, pure soft water may be used instead of the witch hazel;
but the preparation would sour in warm weather. Apply with a soft cloth.
BARBERS' ITCH.
Fear of this disease causes many men to shave themselves, and this class
would otherwise be among the very best customers.
When these men observe how careless the average barber is with his
towels, mugs, tools, etc., they become disgusted and purchase a shaving
outfit and quit the barbers' chair, except when they want a hair-cut.
I believe every barber should know how to treat this disease. Hence I
will make a few suggestions as to its causation and treatment.
Scabies, or itch, in its various forms is a disease caused by the
irritation produced from the presence in the skin of what is called the
itch mite and the ova of the same. The cure involves the destruction of
these parasites. Get a doctor, if possible, to prescribe; if no doctor
can be got who understands it, I would try the following: An ointment
made from the flour of sulphur and lard or sulphur and vaseline, is
about the best remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off in
morning. Or take citron ointment 1 ounce and mutton tallow 1 ounce. Melt
together and stir till cool. This I have found one of the best salves
for all skin diseases I have ever tried. Apply twice a day, but use with
care since it contains mercury.
HAIR OILS AND HAIR DRESSINGS.
While oiling the hair is a thing of the past, we might indulge a few
remarks as a matter of history. Thirty years ago almost every customer
used oil on his hair, and every barber was expected to know how to mix
his own oils. A favorite preparation was made as follows: 1 pint of
alcohol and 1½ pints of castor-oil were shaken together, and then
perfumed with citronella or bergamot.
Another favorite was made of raccoon oil and lard mixed half and half,
and perfumed with the oil of cloves.
Some used the coon oil straight; others used the oil of birds, geese,
chickens or ducks, etc. Bear oil was considered a great oil for the hair
as well as for many other purposes. My own favorite among all the home
made preparations was made from beef marrow. The marrow was tried out
and a little salt was added. The oil was then perfumed with bergamot.
POMADES.
In selecting material for pomade, have a butcher get you some fine leaf
lard and some of the finest suet, which should be taken from young
animals. Render out separately in porcelain vessels and strain off.
DIRECTIONS.—Take lard 1 pound, tallow 1 pound; mix them and heat gently,
and cook for one hour over a slow fire; remove and let stand a few
minutes to settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold add some
suitable perfume, say oil of bergamot 4 drachms, oil of lemon 3 drachms,
oil of cassia 2 drachms, oil of nutmeg 75 drops. Mix thoroughly with the
pomade and pour into small jars.
STICK POMADES.
Take of the prepared tallow 1 pound, pure, clean bees wax 3 ounces, gum
benzoin, in a coarse powder, 1¼ drachms. Melt together with a slow heat,
mixing all the while. When partly cooled add some suitable perfume. Pour
it off in moulds and when cold take out and wrap in tin foil, then put
on a nice label as outer covering.
To make the above into a coloring pomade, take 3 pounds of the prepared
lard and tallow, before being perfumed; add to it 2 pounds of fresh
walnut hulls, cut up fine; put into a porcelain vessel and heat gently
for four hours. Take off and strain, and proceed as in making the black
pomade. This will gradually color the hair or beard to a nice brown by
being used daily until the desired shade is obtained.
HOW TO STOP BLOOD.
Every barber should have at hand a preparation for stopping blood. The
best of barbers are liable to bring blood from rough or tender faces. An
astringent pencil, which is very good and very handy, may be obtained
from the barber supply houses in the cities at a cost of only 10 cents
each. However, I prefer Monsell's Powdered Iron which may be obtained
from any drug store. The only objection to it is, it is liable to
discolor the skin. However, by being careful to put on only a small
amount, it may easily be washed off when the blood has ceased to ooze.
If a small bump has been cut off or a shallow cut made in the smooth
skin, it will generally suffice to cover it with a thick lather and let
it remain until the shaving is completed.
Alum is also used but is too slow in its action.
HAIR RESTORERS.
I could give a formula that would make the hair fall out, but thus far I
have not been able to find a preparation that will produce a new growth
of hair on bald heads. As a preventative treatment I might suggest as
follows:
Boil burdock root in soft water until strong, and then add to one pint
of it, a half pint of alcohol, a teaspoonful of salt, and 1 ounce of
glycerine. This used once a day will prevent the hair from falling out.
Or make a strong decoction of black tea or sage and mix with the
alcohol, salt, and glycerine as above and use as above.
The basis of most hair tonics is the tincture of cantharides, quinine,
ammonia, camphor, and salt. A solution of borax in camphor water is used
by some as a stimulant for the scalp. I have a friend who is
experimenting on a new line with very encouraging prospects of
successfully producing hair on bald heads. If any party interested will
address me a few months hence, I may be able to advise them how to
reproduce hair on bald heads.
GLASS HONES.
A glass hone is easily made, and no barber should be without one.
Procure a piece of heavy plate glass and have a glass cutter cut it into
pieces 3×8 inches in dimensions. Take the gloss off the face and also
around the edges on a grindstone, and then finish by rubbing the face of
the hone with pumice-stone kept wet with water. Continue this rubbing
until the gloss is entirely removed and the hone is smooth. Before
honing take a rubber, such as is used on a water hone, and, after
wetting hone rub until you have a sort of lather. Hone on this as you
would on any other hone. You will find it excellent for smoothing shears
after grinding, or a razor after having been over honed.
MUGS, BRUSHES AND SOAPS.
The mug should be large and heavy and the brush used to make the lather
should also be large and first-class in every particular. In regard to
brushes, I would suggest that it pays to buy the very best.
A poor brush that is continually shedding hairs is very annoying to the
customer, and it hinders the barber. I prefer the rubber ferruled brush,
but be sure to get the genuine.
In regard to soap I must admit that I am partial to the J. B. Williams
barber soap. However, there are other brands that give good
satisfaction. There are no soaps too good. Hence get the best.
FACE POWDERS.
There is nothing much better than cake magnesia, but it should only be
used to dry the face after shaving. I have given a liquid whiting which
is much used by ladies. I have often used it on men to whiten the skin.
See whitening for the face.
SHOWER BATH AND SHAMPOO CAN.
Take a common tin bucket which holds three gallons, have a small tube
one inch long and one quarter of an inch in diameter put in one side
about one half inch from bottom of bucket.
Then get a rubber hose three feet long of suitable diameter to fit on to
the tube. At the other extremity of the hose attach a sprinkler with its
tubular end made to fit the hose.
Connect the hose to bucket and the sprinkler to hose, and the can is
complete.
Lay the sprinkler over the upper rim of can (or bucket) to keep the
water from flowing out. Fill with soft warm water; and, when ready to
take the bath or shampoo, hang from ceiling or set on shelf high enough
to allow the water to flow over the head and body.
Put on the shampoo. Take the sprinkler and thoroughly wash and rinse.
Three gallons of water used in this way is better than a whole bath tub
full used in the ordinary way. This apparatus of course applies to
country places where they have not the advantage of water works, or
where the water furnished is hard.
TOWELS, HAIR CLOTHS, AND FACE CLOTHS.
If you would secure first-class trade, you must keep a good supply of
clean good looking towels. Nothing is more disgusting in a shop than a
lot of dirty ragged towels.
The workmen may be first-class, the tools first-class, etc.; but unless
the towels are in proper condition the better class of trade will go
elsewhere.
I prefer a good moderate sized cotton towel, except for the wash cloth,
where I prefer a cotton crash towel on the order of a bath towel.
This crash comes in bolts and may be cut the desired length; it must,
however, be hemmed. For the bath always use a good towel but not too
large.
The breast cloth made of calico or gingham, should be full width of
goods, and not less than three and a half feet long. It should have a
half neck opening at one side made to fit up around the neck.
The hair cloth may be made of calico, gingham or bleached sheeting. If
the sheeting is used get the goods wide enough to require no seam, and
then border with a two inch band of red oiled calico.
SUGGESTIONS FOR BEGINNERS.
In the first place, if you have made up your mind to be a barber, why
not be a good one. There is always room at the top, and rich reward for
him who has reached the top. Rich reward, however, is the price of
self-exertion. Do not wait for a tidal wave to waft you on to success.
The minions of fortune are few and far between. You must not only work
but you must embrace every opportunity to improve your qualifications,
if you would achieve success in this age of advanced knowledge and
skill. You should always be on the alert, and never miss an opportunity
to acquire useful information. Knowledge is power, and it behooves you
to gain all the knowledge you can, especially of your own business. If
necessary pay for it, work for it, or even beg for it. The possession of
a good fund of practical knowledge with other necessary qualities of
mind and heart, will enable one to wear good clothes, make plenty of
money and to have scores of friends; while the lack of it will make
another the digger of ditches, living in rags and poverty, and deprived
of the more congenial companionship of the better and nobler elements of
society. Knowledge pays.
Moreover, while you should attend well to the proper equipment of your
mind, you should not neglect the proper cultivation of your social
character. Especially should you cultivate what might be termed a
practical business social tact.
Treat every customer as though your success depended upon him and him
alone, and always exert your utmost to do good work. Much depends upon
the barber's ability to shave well. To accomplish the great desideratum
of being able to shave well each one of the various customers with their
varying qualities of beard, you must diligently study the temper of your
razors with reference to the peculiar beard of each customer. Again much
depends upon the lather, the brush, the hone, the strop, etc. Hence you
will please pardon a few simple primary suggestions leading up to a good
shave. First you must equip yourself with first-class tools.
Procure a first-class oil hone.
A large rubber ferruled lather brush.
A large heavy shaving mug.
A half dozen No. 1 razors, 4½ to 4⅝ wide and ¾ concave.
Your soap and all other materials and implements should be as good as
you are able to buy.
When you hone your razor on the oil hone, use good soap and make a stiff
lather which you will spread on the hone. Then place the razor on the
hone and draw very lightly from heel to point so that the edge of the
razor will always be on the front side of the moving blade. Each stroke
across the hone should be a sloping or sawing stroke, and at the end of
each the razor should be turned on the back and pushed up across the end
of the hone, and the other side of the blade laid flat on the hone. Then
draw the razor back with a curving or angular stroke to the other end of
the hone. Turn again as before and continue with steady stroke until you
think the blade is sharp. Wet the thumb nail and try the edge by drawing
it lightly from end to end. Should the edge feel blunt or rough make a
few more strokes on the hone and try again, and so on until the edge is
satisfactory. A better way to test the edge, if you have a smooth soft
hand, is to wet the end of thumb or fore finger and draw the razor
lightly over it feeling of the edge. However, it requires practice to
tell with certainty by either method. Therefore practice carefully until
you become expert.
We will here make a few suggestions in regard to the different hones
generally used by barbers. The oil hone, which is supposed to be
petrified hickory, is the one most used, and is perhaps the best. Second
in rank and general use comes the Swatty hone which is made from the
same material as the emery wheel, but it is of finer grade. This is a
very fast cutting hone. Next comes the water hone which is simply a fine
grit stone, and then comes the glass hone which is but little used. A
few barbers use it to take off the wire edge of over-honed razors. Hones
should be handled with great care. In honing the razor should be run
well out to the ends to prevent hollowing the hone. Should a hone begin
to hollow, work it down with fine sand paper to a perfect face and
smooth it with the rubber used on the water hones. I prefer olive oil on
an oil hone if carefully used. Of course lather may be used on an oil
hone the same as on the Swatty and glass hones. Use water on the water
hone and rub with the rub stone commonly used until the surface is
covered with a sort of soapy pasty lather before honing. The glass hone
may be used in the same manner. Any hone when not in use should be
wrapped up and laid away carefully after having been washed and
thoroughly cleaned.
You should be provided with a good shell strop, or a good Russian
leather strop, and also a good canvas strop. After honing strop the
razor lightly on the leather only. The canvas should not be used except
when the razor has become smooth. When you have a customer in the chair,
first put a clean towel on him and proceed to make the lather using warm
soft water. Lather the face and scour the beard, and then lather again
with a good heavy lather. Proceed to shave, drawing the razor with a
sawing stroke, and make the strokes as long as practicable. Hold the
skin tight to throw out the beard, and go over the face the first time
as quickly as possible. Then wash the soap from the face, and go over it
a second time, keeping the skin somewhat stretched, and wet with soft
water. When finished, press a hot towel to the face and then use one of
the face creams given in this book.
Next powder the face, and curl and perfume the mustache. If you think
his hair needs trimming tell him so, and if he has it done, do your very
best, even taking pains to cut the hair out of his ears. Shave his neck.
The most important point is to get a good edge on the hair.
If he takes a shampoo, first give the scalp a good brushing to loosen
the dandruff, and then use Silver Gloss Shampoo, giving him to
understand that you have it for sale for family use. Rinse hair with
warm soft water, and dry with a fine bath towel, and then ask him if you
shall apply some of the hair tonic which will cost him only ten cents
extra.
Comb his hair in the latest style, and if he desires it, color his
mustache with the celebrated German Hair Dye. Help him into his coat,
and thanking him bid him come again.
Purchase every good book pertaining to your business, study diligently
and practice what you learn, and you will soon stand abreast with the
best and most progressive barbers. You should be prompted by no meaner
ambition.
SUCCESS.
“If you wish success in life,
Make perseverance your bosom friend,
Experience your wise counselor,
Caution your elder brother,
And hope your guardian genius.”
_Addison_.
[Illustration]
Taxidermist's Manual.
By T. J. MCCONNAUGHAY.
[Illustration]
Taxidermy.
The word taxidermy is derived from the two Greek words, taxis, which
means arrangement, and derma which means skin. Hence this term is
applied to the art of preserving and mounting the skins of animals for
ornamental and scientific purposes. Little is known of the origin of
this art, but it would seem from books of travel and natural history,
that it is at most, not more than three hundred years old. It began to
be practiced in England about the beginning of the 18th century, which
fact is proven from the “Sloane Collection” which was formed in 1825, as
the nucleus of the present natural history collection lodged in the
galleries of South Kensington. It was about the middle of the 18th
century that the first book devoted to the principles of taxidermy was
published in France. After this, others appeared from time to time in
France and Germany, but England contributed no literature on the subject
until about the beginning of the present century. In 1828 an Englishman
named Scudder, established a museum of mounted specimens in an old alms
house in New York City. Previous to this, the art seems to have been
absolutely unknown in America. It was not till the exhibition of 1851,
that the French and German taxidermists taught the English the
principles of scientific treatment.
Since that time several works have appeared from the pens of English and
American authors. Prominently among the American writers, were Charles
Waterton and Titian R. Peale who greatly improved the art in this
country.
Jules Verreaux, of Paris, brought the art to a still higher perfection,
and introduced methods for giving to specimens a life-like expression,
which elevated it quite to the realm of higher art. Great were his
accomplishments in the art of expressing the actions and characteristic
attitudes of the living animals. Since his day taxidermy has rivaled the
plastic art, and today, it has reached such a degree of perfection that
the most artistic and æsthetic effects may be wrought by the hands of
any operator who possesses artistic faculties. The Illinois State
Natural History Society of Bloomington, published an illustrated
pamphlet from the pen of one Mr. Holder, which is a very valuable
contribution to taxidermic literature. The author was doubtless greatly
improved by his associations with Audubon and Bell, and in his book he
gives the results of a ripe experience. This book ranks as one of the
best yet published. We submit the results of our own patient study and
practical experience, and hope it may prove a worthy addition.
ARTICLE I.
ON SKINNING, STUFFING AND PRESERVATION OF BIRDS.
SKINNING.
[Illustration: _No. 3._]
Immediately after the bird is killed, the nostrils, throat and wounds
should be stuffed with cotton to prevent the blood from oozing out and
staining the plumage; but should any blood get on the plumage, it should
be removed as soon as possible. This can be done by taking a cloth or
sponge and dipping it in clean water, wringing it out so as to leave it
only moist, and rubbing the feathers gently until all traces of blood
stain are removed. Now sprinkle the feathers with plaster of paris, and
shake out before it sets. Repeat this until they are perfectly dry, and
then wrap the specimen in paper to protect the plumage until ready to
skin, which should be done as soon as the bird cools.
[Illustration: _No. 2._]
In proceeding to skin a bird, spread a cloth on a board or table and lay
the bird on its back. Separate the feathers on the breast with a scalpel
or knife. Insert the knife at the top of breast-bone and cut the skin
from there to the tail. Great care should be taken not to cut too deep
over the intestines, as it is only necessary to cut through the skin.
Now begin where you first inserted the knife and proceed to separate the
skin from the flesh, either with the fingers or the back of the scalpel
or knife. Tear some small pieces of paper, say about an inch square, and
put under the skin on the flesh as you get them separated, which will
keep the feathers from sticking to the flesh and becoming soiled; or
sprinkling cornmeal over the flesh and skin while skinning, will answer
the same purpose. Press carefully down each side to backbone. Now press
the thighs forward and inward, draw the skin from the thighs, unjointing
them at the first joint from the body.
The skin is now removed over the rump, and the tail unjointed, taking
care not to injure the tail feathers. Now for convenience, take a cord
and fasten it to a nail on the wall or ceiling, put a wire hook on the
other end, and fasten in the bird so you can suspend it high enough
above the table to work on it easily. Now pull the skin downwards until
you get to the wings, which are to be unjointed at the shoulder joint.
It is then pulled down over the skull until the ears are reached. Here
many valuable specimens are spoiled by cutting the ears too close to the
skin, so be sure to cut the ears close to the skull.
The eyelids are often spoiled also by inexperienced hands. Be sure and
cut them well back and, if necessary, trim them afterwards. Now remove
the eyeballs and unjoint the skull from the neck, enlarge the opening at
the base of skull, where the neck came off, and remove the brain with
spoon made for that purpose. Now remove the flesh from the thigh bone
down to knee joint, and turn them back in place; then skin the wings out
to first joint and remove the flesh. There is yet one job and the
skinning process is completed. Divide the feathers on the under side of
the wing between the second and third joints, cut the skin, and with a
sharp knife cut out all flesh from the bone, and put in some of the
preserving powder; cover it with a little cotton and sew it up, being
careful not to draw any of the feathers in; press the feathers down
smooth, and see that each is in its proper place.
There are some birds with large heads and small necks. With these we
cannot draw the skin over the head, but have to push the skin as near
the head as it is possible, and cut off the neck bone; then make an
opening under the throat large enough to turn out the skull and the
remaining part of the neck bone, and proceed to skin the skull, take out
brain, etc., as directed heretofore. The flesh must be carefully removed
from all parts of the skin, and the preserving powder applied, being
very careful that all parts are well powdered.
If you now wish to mount the bird it can be done immediately.
STUFFING BIRDS.
In the first place take some plaster paris, mix it with water to a stiff
paste, and fill the eye-sockets with it, then press the glass eye in the
paris, using great care to set them in as near a natural position as
possible. When the plaster has hardened, which it does very quickly, if
the skin has become dry, dampen it with a damp sponge, and turn it back
over the skull, then lay the bird on the table and proceed to put in the
frame, stuff and sew up.
I give three kinds of frames. One is the wire and wood frame, which you
see on page 78, Figs. 9 and 10. The others, wire frames, on page 80,
Fig. 3, for birds; also Fig. 11, for humming birds and other small
birds, on page 78.
Take frame described Nos. 9 and 10, having the leg wire AA detached from
body board, fill the neck with tow, being careful not to fill it too
full; run neck wire E through the center of the neck and pass it out at
the top of head, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, or through one of the
nostrils. I prefer the latter, because it does not break the skin and
holds the head more steady. Then put the tail support E through the
center or heavy part of the tail, raise the body board and place under
it some tow or cotton; or pad the board by placing some cotton on it and
tacking some cloth over it to keep the frame off from the back; then
take the leg wires, Fig. 13, AA and put them in the legs, as shown in
cut No. 3, and fasten on to the body board with blind staples, as
represented in cut No. 3; proceed with the stuffing; finish filling out
the neck and breast, shaping it while filling, using care not to get it
too full, as that is a fault of most beginners; after filling it down to
the opening, the next should be the legs; if the leg bone is left in
from the knee up, wrap it to the leg wire with a strip of muslin and tie
it; then stuff the leg up to the body, fill the body and sew up; in
sewing be careful not to draw any of the feathers down with the thread.
After it is all sewed up, place all the feathers down smooth and in
their proper place, as much depends on this.
Next place the specimen on a board or perch; if on a board, procure a
suitable one, bore two holes the size of the leg wires through it, then
make a groove on the under side of board running off from each hole to
lay wire down in; place the specimen on the board, running the leg wires
through it, and draw the wires down until the legs set in proper
position, bend the wires down into the grooves and fasten them with
small blind staples. In this connection one should use his own judgment
in placing the bird on the board; one leg should generally be placed a
little in advance of the other. If the bird is to be placed on a limb
perch, bore the holes through the limb, place the bird on, and draw the
wires tight, and drive a wooden wedge in beside the wire to hold it,
then file the wire off close to the under side of the perch. Pose the
bird in as natural a position as you can, imitating nature as near as
possible. Place the wings in position, then take a piece of wire heavy
enough to hold the wings in place. Sharpen one end, and make a square
turn about one-fourth of an inch from the other end to keep it from
pulling through the wing. Now place the wings in proper shape. Pass the
wire through the wings and body in a way to hold them in shape. Pull the
wire until the turn on the one end presses against the wing. Cut the
wire on other side of bird and turn it back, as on the other side, so
that the wire cannot be pulled either way; then arrange the whole
body—wings, neck, tail, head, etc. In case the specimen is a web-footed
bird, take a thin piece of board, say from a cigar box, cut it to fit in
between the toes, and tack them in to hold the web in shape while
drying. This should be removed when dry. After all is completed bathe
the buts of wings, the feet, legs and beak, with the preserving fluid;
this should be repeated for three or four days. Then let the specimen
dry in a shady place. It can then be placed on another board or perch
and set in the cabinet.
MOUNTING BIRDS ON WIRE FRAME.
(See directions for making frame.)
Skin the bird and prepare it as directed in this article. Fill the neck
with tow, put in neck wire, letting the end come out through the
nostril; bend leg wires AA back so as to get them in the legs; run them
down on the inside of the leg, or through the center of leg bone, and
come out in the center of the foot. (See cuts Nos. 2 and 3.) Put tail
support E through the under part of the tail, and proceed as directed
heretofore in this article, to stuff, sew up, etc.
Where the tow can not be secured and you have to use cotton in stuffing,
always put in the neck wire first, and stuff around it or wrap the neck
wire with strips of muslin, old calico, or anything that can be used for
that purpose, always being careful not to make the neck too large.
Excelsior can be used to good advantage in stuffing large bodies.
PELICANS.
In dressing a pelican always use the board and wire frame. For position,
copy after some picture of the bird, which you can find in any natural
history. The only difference in dressing from the goose, etc., is they
have a game sack under the lower jaw, which is often as much as ten
inches wide and sixteen inches long. I find the best way to dress that
is to take a fine shingle, wide and long enough, and trim it in the
shape of a sleigh runner, and put it inside of the pouch or game sack,
with the straight edge up and the square end toward the neck. Draw the
pouch smooth over the shingle, and tie the bill together, then wet well
with the solution of corrosive sublimate. The board should be left in.
Wire can be bent and placed in to answer the same purpose.
PEA-FOWL.
In dressing a pea-fowl, where the wings and tail have to be spread,
extra wires have to be put in. The wires for the wings are fastened on
to the body board, as when used for the fore legs of animals. Then, for
the tail support, take a wire about five feet long and bend it in a hoop
shape, leaving enough of the ends to extend into and fasten on the body
board. This must be put on the board before putting it in the body.
Dress the bird as others, letting the hoop or tail support extend out
under the tail. After it is all stuffed and set on the board, bend the
tail support up back of tail, and fasten the feathers of the tail to it
by tying them, one at a time, with a heavy thread, in such a way that
when all are fastened to the wire they will stand as when the bird was
strutting. Arrange the wings and body to suit and let dry.
DRESSING BIRDS WITH WINGS SPREAD.
To dress a bird with wings spread, either flying or sitting, it will be
necessary to put in wing wires to hold the wings out. The easiest way is
to use the wire and board frame, using the front leg wires as used in
animals, for the wings. See Figs. 7 and 8, board and body frame.
In dressing a bird this way, after skinning and wiring, as directed for
bird, using frames 9 and 10, put in the wing wires and fasten them to
body board, as directed for forelegs of animals.
If wishing to represent the bird as flying, take four cords and fasten
them to the back of the bird in a way that will balance it; tie them
together a few inches above the back and extend one cord longer than the
others. It can now be hung from the ceiling by the cord; this will let
the specimen turn about and present a fine appearance. The feet should
be placed in as near a natural position as possible as when flying. In
all large footed birds use plenty of the solution of corrosive sublimate
or turpentine. The carbolic acid and water mixture is also used, and is
good.
TO CLEAN FEATHERS.
As a test case take a bird after killing and smear it all over with
blood, let it lie until dry. Then put it in a basin, and give it a good
washing with soap and water, then rinse it clean. Now take a dry cloth
and wipe it until almost dry. Then sprinkle it with dry plaster of paris
and shake it out before it has time to set. Repeat this powdering and
shaking until it is perfectly dry, and the feathers will look bright and
nice. Try it.
PRESERVATION OF BUGS, ETC.
Take a large moth fly or miller full of eggs. Make an incision on the
under side of body and take out all the eggs and entrails. Now put in
some of the preserving fluid and fill the cavity with cotton and sew it
up. Then run a pin down through the body and pin it to a board. Arrange
its feet, moisten its body with the preserving fluid and the job is
complete. Butterflies and small bugs need only the preparation over the
body. Heavy bugs can be placed in a cup and the preparation poured over
them. Let them lie in it a few hours and pin on board as directed in
moth flies. When dry place in a glass case.
ARTICLE II.
OF SKINNING ANIMALS.
As soon as an animal is killed, take cotton and stuff in the wounds,
nostrils and mouth, as directed in Article I. for birds; then let it
cool before commencing to skin. In skinning a specimen be very careful
about cutting holes in the skin, and also not to stretch it by pulling
on it while skinning. All being ready, lay the specimen on its back,
make an incision from the breast-bone back to the center between the
hind legs, being careful not to cut too deep over the abdomen. Divide
the skin right and left, putting cotton or paper on the body as the skin
is removed, or sprinkle with corn meal, as directed for birds in Article
I, to prevent the fatty matter from soiling the hair. When you come to
the hind legs, pull the skin down over the thigh joint, and unjoint it,
cut the leg off and skin down to the knee joint and unjoint there,
taking out all the flesh down to the foot, then treat the other hind leg
the same way. Now skin down over the rump and back to the tail. The tail
is hard to skin. Take a forked stick, and after pressing the skin as far
down on the tail-bone as possible, holding the bone as tight in the fork
as you can, pull downward and the bone will slip out. If the animal is
not too large it should be swung up with a rope or cord tied around the
body just in front of the hind legs, or by attaching a hook to the rope
which fastens into the flesh. Remove the skin down to the forelegs, and
unjoint them at the body, and skin out in the same manner as directed
for the hind legs, unjointing at the knees. Now skin the neck and head,
and when you come to the ears cut them close to the skull; fine
specimens are often spoiled by cutting them too far out from the skull.
We next come to the eyes. Be careful not to cut the eyelids. It is
better to cut close to the skull and trim afterwards than to risk
spoiling them. Remove the skin. Unjoint the neck close to the skull,
enlarge the opening at the base of brain and remove all the brains. Take
out the eyes and tongue and remove all flesh from the skull.
This completes the skinning, except when the animal has horns. In that
case, proceed as above until you come to the neck. Skin as far forward
as you can and unjoint the neck at skull. Then cut across from one horn
to the other and loosen the skin around the horns. Then make another cut
from between the horns backwards along the neck far enough to make the
opening large enough to take the skull out; skin out the skull and the
skinning is completed. The flesh must now be cleaned from the skull by
boiling until tender, then scraping it, or simply by cutting and
scraping it.
Take out the brains, eyes, etc., we are now ready to anoint the whole
inside of skin, skull, etc., with the preserving powder. Put in the
frame and stuff the body if ready; if not, the ears, nose, feet and lips
must be well wet with the preserving fluid and laid away in a cool, dry
place.
STUFFING AND MOUNTING ANIMALS.
[Illustration: _No. 4._]