CHAPTER X.

THE REPUBLIC OF GUATEMALA.

[Illustration: Arms of Guatemala.]

For almost three centuries Spain governed Central America (1524-1821)

by the Audiencia Real. Every act of oppression that could be exercised

upon the Indios was invented by the foreign rulers, and the native

population was greatly reduced by this mismanagement; but such a course

always reacts most terribly upon the perpetrators. The thirst for wealth

that brought the foreigners to these shores pursued them still, and the

brave resistance to wrongs unlimited, that the Spaniards themselves

chronicle, does not seem to have awakened that respect in the bosoms of

the Conquistadores that it now rouses in the heart of every generous

student of the past. The Indios were lawful prey, it was “spoiling the

Egyptians;” and although Las Casas and some of the missionaries tried

faithfully to protect their flock, and although the King of Spain made

decrees, the powers of evil seemed to have their own way in this distant

colony. We cannot but admire the undoubted courage and indifference to

personal hardship exhibited by the Conquistadores; but that must not

blind us to the fact that they were little better than freebooters in

their treatment of the American nations they subdued, and that their

policy, so far as they had any, was of the most selfish and narrow kind.

Jealousy of other nations, especially of England, who was now beginning

to try her hand in ruling the sea, although in a rather irregular way,

led to the establishment of all the important cities in the mountain

region of the interior, where they might well escape the notice of other

nations. The natural walls that Nature had provided were made very

useful to their utmost extent; the ports were but conveniences to help

the invaders to supplies from the mother-country and afford a necessary

means for the exportation of their ill-gotten gains, and general commerce

was discouraged in every way. The buccaneers helped to discourage the

growth of ports, but the Home Government did quite as much in this

direction. The atrocious system of _encomiendas_, by which the native

population was reduced to an almost hopeless slavery, was permitted, if

not encouraged, by the Church, and no attempt was ever made to develop

the country on a basis of improvement in the Indian population; and the

animal, vegetable, and mineral wealth of Guatemala were treated much in

the same way,—a prey for the present robber. The Indios were all subdued,

except the Lacandones far on the northern frontier, who were too poor to

pay for subjugation; and the iniquitous policy of selfishness began to

bear fruit. Unlimited power and immunity in the hands of the clergy begot

intolerance. The shepherds became the wolves, and not only devoured their

own flocks, but the entire country as well. Monopolies, corruption,

oppression grew like true tropical vegetation, until the air became too

close for healthful life; and then came the fermentation. Uprisings

of the Indios had occurred before the death of Alvarado (1541),—for

example, the brave attempt of the Cacique Lempira in Honduras; but these

rebellions were all crushed by the iron hand of the Adelantado and by his

generals. Now came the low murmur of a rising tempest over the land, and

the winds were blowing from a different quarter of the heavens. Now the

ruling caste was uneasy, and it was about to reap the inevitable harvest

of the wind it had sowed.

Not in the province of Guatemala, not at the seat of the Audiencia Real,

but on that disturbed strip of land along the Pacific coast of Nicaragua

and San Salvador, where earthquakes are on the most terrific scale,

and volcanic vents bristle threateningly, appeared the first forcible

remonstrances against this aged and encrusted tyranny. In 1811 there

were risings, little _pronunciamentos_; but there was no combination

to insure success. The false system of government taught a distrust of

others; selfishness permeated individual character as well as the nation

at large; and no man could put confidence in his neighbor. No leader

appeared to unite the discordant elements, the evolution of a free state

was very slow, and at last was as much owing to the supineness of Spain

as to any forceful act on the part of the provinces. We have here no

war of freedom, no Washington, no Bolivar. Sporadic murmurs were heard

now and again; they came to the ears of the people and set a few men

to thinking; the number of these thinkers grew, until in 1821 the then

representative of Spain, Gavino Gainza, joined the rebels,—much as a

disappointed politician of the present day leaves his party for the camp

of its opponents,—and independence was solemnly proclaimed, September 15,

in Guatemala. Spain seems to have acquiesced in an act which deprived

her of her fair American colonies; but it may be supposed that her

mismanagement had left little value in the possession.

Three centuries of abasement had been a most inopportune school for the

freedom of a republic, and one cannot be surprised that the change was

no easy one, or that the results have not, even after two generations,

been all that the patriots among these first rebels may have wished.

Subjectively, “Be thou fed” is very easy; but objectively the result

seldom meets the command. Slavery was abolished forty years before the

great Republic of the North dared to do that right; but this eminently

proper step was very embarrassing, for not only were there no means left

for the forced repair of roads, bridges, and other means of intercourse,

that in a tropical country need constant vigilance, but the commerce

between town and town fell off, and the little traffic that had led

a struggling existence for some years with Spain and other European

countries now died out entirely, and the revenues of the State were

affected with an atrophy that crippled every attempt of the Government

to improve the internal communications of the country. The clergy,

who had perhaps made the freest use of forced labor, in covering the

land with elaborate churches and convents that all the revenues of the

Government of the present day could hardly keep in repair, felt aggrieved

and uneasy. All was in transition, and there were few wise men to guide

the counsels. The stream was turbulent, and not easily kept within its

proper channel. Is it wonderful that round blocks should be found in

square holes under such circumstances; or that the political equilibrium,

all unstable, should turn to this signal disturbance or that, without

much reason?

There were two parties, around which rallied opposing elements,—the

Conservative, Central, or Servile, as it was variously called, and the

Federal, Liberal, or Democratic. To the former belonged the leading

families, who possessed certain monopolies and feared to lose them; the

clergy, who with these few families held themselves for an aristocracy;

and a few of the lower classes, who from personal or religious feelings

were satisfied with the existing order of things: and all these bitterly

resisted any innovation, especially any attack upon the privileges of the

Church. To the Liberals flocked all those who did not enjoy monopolies,

and who could not be worse off under any change; but there came to this

standard also men of intellect, who saw the dangers which threatened

their country, and who rejected the superstition into which the local

Church had fallen, but who in their eagerness to hold up the example of

the United States of the North to their newly emancipated countrymen,

forgot the radical difference between the Anglo-Saxon and Spanish stock

and training. Then came in the feeling of race-prejudice; and when one

remembers that three quarters of the population was Indian, and that of

the other quarter was composed the entire ruling class, it will perhaps

be a matter of surprise that more evil did not come from this threatening

condition of affairs. If the Indios of Guatemala had not been the most

peaceable and law-abiding of their kind known to history, they might

have improved the opportunity to repay all the miseries inflicted upon

their ancestors. As it happened, they could at least be conscious of

their power.

With no fixed policy, the ancient States of the kingdom of Guatemala cut

adrift from Spain. At one time all, except San Salvador, entertained the

idea of union with the new Empire of Mexico under Iturbide, but they

escaped that complication by the early collapse of the Mexican throne;

and at last, on the 1st of April, 1823, representatives of the States met

in the City of Guatemala, and the Asamblea Nacional Constituyente, after

long debates and many propositions, in which, as might be supposed, the

Church party had no unimportant influence, a Federal Constitution was

proclaimed on Nov. 24, 1824.

Three years later the Vice-President, Flores, was murdered in

Quezaltenango by a mob of female furies instigated, it is claimed,

by the Church party, and his body was stripped and mutilated by the

fiend-like women. This was done in the church as the wretched man clung

to the altar, and it was done in the name of religion. The consequence

immediately following was an absolute reign of religious fanaticism. San

Salvador, however, sent an army to restore order, and on March 16, 1827,

attacked the capital; but these troops of the Liberal party were driven

back, and for two years a barren warfare was kept up. In 1829 General

Francisco Morazan led the Salvadoreñan army to Guatemala; and now success

attended the Liberals. After a battle lasting three days they entered

Guatemala City in triumph, banished the leaders of the Central party, and

suppressed the convents. In 1831 Morazan was elected President of the

Republic or Confederacy, and for ten years his party held the government.

It is not easy for a foreigner to get trustworthy information of the true

value of Morazan’s administration; but while the man seems to have been

patriotic and of excellent private character, he was not strong enough to

control the warring elements around him. The Church was his bitter enemy;

and while it long endured the low estate to which the party in power

had reduced it, there was no lack of grumbling, nor of even more active

endeavors to find a champion.

In the mean time an Indio of low birth[44] and wholly uneducated, but

of great courage, had come into prominence as a leader of bands of

marauding Indios. Rafael Carrera, young as he was, saw his advantage in

the disturbed condition of his country, and after various defeats at the

hands of the President, at last drove Morazan from Guatemala, and the

Confederation came to an end (1839).

Carrera favored the Church party, but had not the slightest intention

of letting the Church rule him. He knew how to use it, and the clergy

generally submitted gracefully. In all previous revolutions the defeated

party had been banished, and so the State was kept unanimous—a condition

that could not obtain now, because neither party had much real power

left after the constant struggles of the past few years. It was while

our countryman John L. Stephens, whose fascinating account of his

travels will always be a classic, was on a diplomatic mission to Central

America that young Carrera was gathering his power, and it is to this

distinguished traveller that most of the information about Carrera is

due. Carrera, _Fundador de la República de Guatemala_ (Founder of the

Republic), is the title he claimed on the coinage of Guatemala during his

administration; and after a long reign—the word is used intentionally—he

was able to designate his successor and die in his bed, while his chief

antagonist, Morazan, after a most persevering struggle for the union

of Central America, was shot by his ungrateful countrymen. The tomb of

Carrera is in the metropolitan church in Guatemala City.

[Illustration: Rafael Carrera.]

On the death of Carrera, in 1865, Don Vincente Cerna succeeded to the

Presidency; but he did not possess the power over the Indios that Carrera

held, and before his term of office had half passed, disturbances broke

out on the northern frontier, where a man named Barrios had collected

a gang of outlaws. This insurrection was suppressed, and Barrios

executed; he however left a successor in the person of Serapio Cruz, a

very corpulent man, but for all that a typical brigand, who for some

time waged a guerilla war from his mountain retreats, capturing the

distilleries of aguardiente (then a Government monopoly), and destroying

what he could not carry away. Joined to this enemy on the outskirts of

the republic was a no-less disturbing element in the legislature in the

person of Don Miguel Garcia Granados, who was most active in attacking

the Government. As the Presidential term of Cerna ended, a rival in the

political field, General Victor Zavala, seemed likely to be elected; but

by a close vote Cerna was re-elected. In 1869 a loan was negotiated in

London which enabled the Government to pay its most pressing debts, and

quiet was apparently secured. All this time, however, the insurgent Cruz

was strengthening his band in the mountains, where he was joined by a man

destined to hold the chief place in Guatemala, General J. Rufino Barrios;

and in December, 1869, the rebel army approached the capital. The city

was in a most excited state, expecting pillage if not destruction, when

the unexpected news came that the _head_ of Cruz would soon be in the

city. It was true; a party of Indios had attacked and defeated the chief,

and now brought his bleeding head to the President. This disagreeable

trophy was photographed, and prints were sold in the shops for fifty

cents. The rebellion was over for the time, and Barrios fled to Mexico.

President Cerna was very lenient to his enemies, and Granados was merely

banished, and put under ten thousand dollars’ bond not to return to

Guatemala.

Banished men are always dangerous, and Granados was no exception. Seeing

his opportunity in some dissatisfaction with the governmental policy, he

invaded Guatemala, and was at once joined by General Barrios. The march

from Mexican territory was almost a triumphal procession, and on the

plain between Quezaltenango and Totonicapan (the Esdraelon of Guatemala)

the decisive battle was fought. Cerna could not trust his generals, and

so took the field in person. For a time the battle was with him; but

Barrios brought up his troops in good time, and the national army had to

give way. President Cerna rallied his forces at Chimaltenango, only to

be again defeated; and after making a final stand at San Lucas, a small

village between Antigua and Mixco, fled to Chiquimula, where he advised

his followers to submit to the conquerors, while he went over into

Honduras.

On the 30th of June the “Army of Liberators” entered the capital, and

Granados was proclaimed President _pro tempore_. The new President

found an empty treasury, and called upon the merchants for a loan. The

authorities were very careful to say that this was not a forced loan;

but the method was very much of that character, for a list was made

out of all the merchants in the city, and the proportion each one was

thought capable of paying set against his name. The “subscription paper”

was then sent around, and few dared to refuse. No wonder that Central

Americans do not wish to be thought rich or prosperous! Granados was

nominally President; but no one doubted that the man soon to become his

successor was in reality acting in that capacity even then, although it

was convenient for him to have Granados arrange the finances as well as

the disturbed politics. Several reforms were proclaimed, as freedom of

the press, and the abolition of the monopoly of distilling aguardiente.

Before three months had passed, the clergy began to make trouble, and

in September, 1872, the Archbishop and the entire Order of Jesuits were

banished the republic for inciting insurrection at Santa Rosa. The San

Franciscans, Capucins, and Dominicans were expelled the following year.

This was briefly the story of the beginning of the reign of Barrios.

On June 30, 1871, General J. Rufino Barrios was elected President of the

independent republic that Carrera claimed to have founded; and from that

date Guatemala began to make real progress. His iron will determined that

Guatemala should indeed be chief of all the Central American States, so

that when the time came to renew the union of all the States,—a cherished

scheme of Barrios,—there could be no question of her leadership. He

so far succeeded that his country has undoubtedly made more material

progress in the ten years of his administration than the other Central

American Republics have made in half a century.

Without going into even a brief history of the politics of the republic

under Barrios, certain important acts must be mentioned, such as the

adoption of a Constitution, Dec. 9, 1879, the expulsion of the Jesuits,

the confiscation of much Church property and its appropriation to

the uses of public education, as well as for hotels and government

offices,—acts which have greatly advanced this once priest-ridden

country. I would not have it thought that in speaking of the

sequestration of the churches and monasteries I undervalue the offices

of religion, or am at variance with the particular branch of the Church

whose property was so treated. Guatemala needs more religion, not less;

and could some of those pure and devoted priests of the Church of Rome

whom I have rejoiced to meet in many a remote region, turn their energies

to Central America, it would be well. It cannot, however, be too clearly

stated that what was called the Church in these lands was a church for

any other purpose than those truly religious men could approve. The

evidences of corruption are too clear to admit a doubt that the clergy

had ceased to do the people any good: they failed to do their duty, in

their eager struggle for temporal power; and to-day the splendid churches

they built are in ruins, or left to the ministrations of some itinerant

priest. There are in Guatemala church edifices enough to contain the

entire population, not a tenth part of which ever enters for worship,

since the majority has been repelled rather than attracted by the

unfaithful padres.

The legislative power is in the Asamblea Nacional of Guatemala, which

convenes on the 1st of March annually; and its ordinary sessions last

only two months, although it may continue in session another month if

necessary. Owing to the adoption of a code, the republic is generally

saved the “hayseed” law of the Northern legislatures and the “judge-made”

law of the courts; and the work of the Asamblea is greatly lightened.

The deputies who compose the Asamblea are elected on the basis of one

for every twenty thousand inhabitants, or for a fraction exceeding one

half of that number. Each is elected for a term of four years; but the

terms are so arranged that one half of the deputies is changed every two

years. To these deputies the various Secretaries of State make formal

reports regarding the matters usually contained in the President’s

Message to the Congress of the United States.

The President of Guatemala is elected by direct popular vote for the term

of six years; and the Asamblea elects two persons to succeed him in turn,

should he die or cease to act during the term for which he was elected.

Profiting by the example of the older republic, Guatemala has rejected

the farcical election still used in the North, where the people are

supposed to elect electors to elect a President. The President appoints

the following Secretaries of State:—

Relaciones Exteriores Foreign Affairs.

Gobernacion i Justicia Government and Justice.

Hacienda y Credito Publico Treasury.

Guerra War.

Fomento Interior.

Instruccion Publica Public Instruction.

These officials, with nine Counsellors, form the Council of State. For

the purposes of government the republic is divided into twenty-three

Departments, which are subdivided into sixty-one Districts. In these

Districts are eleven cities (_ciudades_), thirty-two towns (_villas_),

two hundred and ninety-nine villages (_pueblos_), fourteen hundred

and six settlements (_aldeas_), fifty-nine shore hamlets (_caserios

litorales_), and three thousand seven hundred and forty-two interior

hamlets (_caserios rurales_). The Departments, with their chief towns,

are as follows:

Departments. Chief Towns.

Guatemala Guatemala (ciudad)

Amatitlan Amatitlan ”

Escuintla Escuintla ”

Sacatepequez Antigua ”

Chimaltenango Chimaltenango (villa)

Sololà Sololà ”

Totonicapan Totonicapan (ciudad)

Suchitepequez Mazatenango (villa)

Retalhuleu Retalhuleu ”

Quezaltenango Quezaltenango (ciudad)

San Marcos San Marcos ”

Huehuetenango Huehuetenango ”

Quiché Santa Cruz del Quiché (villa)

Santa Rosa Cuajinicuilapa ”

Jutiapa Jutiapa ”

Jalapa Jalapa ”

Chiquimula Chiquimula (ciudad)

Zacapa Zacapa (villa)

Izabal Izabal (puerto)

Livingston Livingston ”

Baja Verapaz Salamà (ciudad)

Alta Verapaz Coban ”

Peten Sacluk (pueblo)

The Executive appoints over each of these Departments a Jefe politico, or

civil governor; and, like the Secretaries of State, they must be men in

whom he has implicit confidence. I may add that I met fifteen of these

Jefes in the course of my journey, and found them, with two exceptions,

men of character and intelligence, who would compare favorably with the

governors of any of the Northern States; nor is this surprising, since

they are appointed for their fitness, and not elected, as the United

States governors often are, by a handful of irresponsible politicians

who use popular votes simply to forward their private ends.

The organic law of Guatemala is the Civil, or Roman. The code is the

result of careful study and adaptation to the needs of the country, and

not the result of the tinkering of village Solons and the decisions of

wiseacre judges, as is that heterogeneous mass, amorphous and illogical,

the common law. Wherever especial needs have arisen, the code has been

supplemented by _decretos_ conforming to the system. The judiciary is

appointed, and the members hold office for four years. It cannot be

denied that some of the lower judges are not always men of considerable

legal attainments; but it will be remembered that they do not usurp the

legislative function, as is too often the case with judges under the

common law.

Although the country is of the Roman Catholic form of religion, the

Constitution allows full liberty of worship to other sects, within

their respective churches, but forbids acts subversive of public order,

or which might invalidate any civil or political obligations.[45]

Notwithstanding this liberty, there is, I believe, but one Protestant

congregation worshipping in the republic. It seems that the offices of

religion are used most by women and by the dying. Guatemala certainly

cannot be called a religious community. The ruined churches, crumbling

to dust and serving only as cemeteries of the dead, are monuments of a

departed worship. Perhaps some day a purer religion may rebuild these

fair temples and call within their walls all the Guatemaltecan children

of the Great Father, to be refreshed with new life and courage.

In sad contrast with the religious life of Guatemala is the military

vigor. It is difficult to obtain the exact statistics of the army,

even in a time of peace; but it is said that the standing army numbers

twenty-five hundred rank and file, with eighty jefes and two hundred and

fifty-three other officers, while the militia, including all males not

physically exempt, between the ages of eighteen and fifty, amounted in

1883 to 49,835 men. Under control of the War Department are the police,

street-lighting, and the Polytechnic School. While it is possible that

the army does not cost so much in proportion to the population as in some

of the other Central American republics, it is nevertheless a terrible

drain upon the resources of the people, apart from the bad moral effect

of a military life, as seen in all history. May the time soon come when

this beautiful republic shall throw off the incubus and devote all her

energies to the development of her vast resources!

I pass to a more agreeable theme, the foundation-stone of a

republic,—public instruction. On Dec. 13, 1879, President Barrios by

decree established the present excellent system of compulsory and

gratuitous elementary education. Under this in the primary schools

are taught reading, Spanish, knowledge of objects, writing and linear

drawing, geography, history, morals, and politeness.[46] For those who

wish to go beyond these elements, equally gratuitous facilities are

afforded for learning Spanish grammar, book-keeping, elementary natural

history, geography, and history of Central America, and some other

branches (complementary).

In 1883 there were in Guatemala eight hundred and fifty primary schools,

divided thus,—for boys, five hundred and forty; for girls, two hundred

and thirty-six; mixed, sixteen; artisans’ evening-schools, forty-seven;

a Sunday-school for workmen, one also for women, and nine complementary

schools. The attendance at these schools was 39,642 pupils, 27,974

males and 11,668 females; there were 735 male teachers, and 302 female

teachers, while the cost was $241,499.14, or $6.09 each pupil. These

schools, scattered all over the republic, meeting sometimes in old

convents or other confiscated church buildings, sometimes in the cabildo

or in buildings especially provided, are visited and inspected frequently

by suitable persons appointed by Government, who do the duty laid upon

them far more intelligently than most of the New England school-committee

men,—I have had experience of both.

Teachers’ institutes are held in three places each year in November,

and the teachers are expected to attend and gather what new matter

or interest may be provided for them. As the Government appoints the

teachers, it is responsible; and I believe there is a general care among

these teachers to keep well up to the requirements. Wisely, the schools

are not overloaded, as are those in many Northern cities, with every

conceivable subject; but the aim is to give every child the beginning of

an elementary education, which he can, if circumstances permit, greatly

expand.

There are also fifty-five private schools, with 1,870 pupils costing

$84,154, of which the Government pays $4,944.

The secondary instruction is given in several high schools or academies,

of which the most important is the Instituto Nacional, Central de

Hombres, in the City of Guatemala. The spacious buildings, formerly

church property, well accommodate the physical and chemical laboratories,

the meteorological observatory (the most complete in Central America),

the zoölogical museum, mineral cabinet, and lecture-rooms, while within

the courts is a good zoölogical garden. Besides the numerous class-rooms

and offices are commodious dormitories provided with iron bedsteads

and kept in very neat order. The corps of instruction consists of a

director and twenty-seven professors, and in 1883 there were two hundred

and fifty-three boarders, and one hundred and thirty day pupils, with

twenty-three pupils in the normal department, and eleven free pupils.

The day-pupils pay a matriculation fee of $10 annually, and $3 for an

examination in each course. The institute costs $19,839.00, or $180.75

for each boarder, and $105.30 for each day-pupil. I have examined the

work of the pupils, and found it very creditable, quite equal in many

respects to that of the boys in the Latin and high schools of Boston.

The girls are not neglected, although their instruction does not proceed

to the extravagant lengths common in the eastern United States and in

England, where the endeavor is made to train the female intellect to the

standard of the male, and so wholly unfit for the privileges of matrimony

and maternity the unfortunate girls who are subjected to such training.

The Instituto de Belen, Central de Señoritas, has a faculty of one

preceptress and ten female teachers in charge of one hundred and twelve

pupils, costing the nation $78,000. This school occupies an extensive

building, with suitable cabinets and a gymnasium. A kindergarten is

attached to this school.

In Chiquimula is the Instituto de Oriente, with one director, six

professors, and thirty-three boys, nine boarders, and fourteen

day-pupils. More important than this is the Instituto de Occidente, in

Quezaltenango, with a director, twenty-two professors, and two hundred

and twenty-one pupils. Cabinets of minerals and other natural objects,

a chemical laboratory and a meteorological observatory, help in the

instruction. In the same city is a similar school for girls, with a

preceptress (_directora_), eleven _professoras_, and eighty-two pupils.

Professional instruction, which in the United States of the North is

not deemed a part of the system of free public education, is here

undertaken by the Government; and four faculties are established to

teach law (_derecho y notariado_), medicine and pharmacy, engineering,

and philosophy and literature. Each of these faculties elects a dean,

secretary, and four _vocales_ who have charge of the courses of study

and other matters peculiar to their branch, while the four directories

(_juntas directivas_) form a council charged with the sole administration

of the professional schools. Forty professors teach one hundred and

thirty-three pupils at a cost of $24,903.96 to the nation. The law claims

forty-two pupils; medicine, seventy; engineering, eleven; and literature,

ten. Special instruction does not stop here, for there are also in the

capital seven schools, costing $21,762.24, and teaching two hundred and

forty-two pupils in the following branches:—

Music and Oratory 66 pupils.

Commerce 50 ”

Design 62 ”

Arts and Occupations 55 ”

A school for deaf-mutes has nine pupils. The Polytechnic School is under

the direction of the Minister of War, and has eighty pupils. It is

interesting to note that the system of marks in use in this institution

has recently been adopted in Harvard University.

While I am aware that a mere table of numbers, a census of pupils

and teachers, even if illustrated with the courses pursued and the

instruments for instruction, cannot convey to my readers a fair

understanding of the results accomplished by the system of public

education in Guatemala, I may be permitted to say that I have for six

years performed with attention my duties on the school-board of one

of the largest cities in the North, and my interest in the subject

of education led me to examine the schools of this Southern city,

with constant comparisons with the type most familiar to me; and the

conclusion to which I arrived was that the system in Guatemala was

excellently suited to the country and people, that the Government had

done better than my own Government in the North, and if the results

were not in every case all that could be desired, it was not the

fault of schools or teachers. I have examined both public and private

schools, containing both ladino and Indian children, and have found

many well-instructed boys and girls, but never the execrable system

of cramming so much in vogue at the North. I did not see the sallow,

pimply, stooping, weak-eyed boys that form so large a minority of the

public-school children at home. I am sure that if fewer “branches” are

taught here, less ill-health results; and I am quite ready to honor good

health before mere book-learning.

With some hesitation, I add to the means of education the modern

newspaper. Before the election of Barrios there were but two official

publications of this class,—“La Gaceta” and “La Semana,” both proceeding

from one pen, and the journal of the Sociedad Económica. Now there are in

the capital four printing establishments, and the list of publications

is a very respectable one. The official “El Guatemalteco” presents four

times a week all official announcements, including the text of all public

grants or contracts,—a plan which must place a check on extravagance or

improper favoritism. “La Estrella de Guatemala,” an independent daily;

“Diario de Centro-América,” “La Gaceta de los Tribunales,” twice a

month; “La Gaceta de los Hospitales,” monthly; “El Horizonte” and “El

Ensayo,” weekly, are published in the capital. In Quezaltenango “El Bien

Publico” is a well-written twice-a-week publication. In Mazatenango “El

Eco de los Altos,” twice a month; in Antigua “El Eco del Valle,” daily;

in Chiquimula “El Oriental,” weekly; in Salamà “La Voz del Norte,” in

Coban “El Quetzal,” both weekly, have a considerable local circulation;

and during the session of the Asamblea full stenographic reports of the

proceedings are published in the “Diario de las Sesiones.”

I cannot say much about the Guatemaltecan libraries, although not for

the reason that made the chapter “On Serpents” in the History of Norway

so famous. The national library is very small, and the treasures of

manuscript which survived the ungentle hands of the early rulers have

been so carelessly guarded that the choicest are now in foreign hands

(French and German); and the printed volumes relating to the history of

Central America, or the publications of the native Press, are difficult

to find. There are no important bookstores in Guatemala, and I had the

greatest difficulty in obtaining a sight of Fuentes and Juarros, both of

which I found only in private libraries. In an old curiosity shop a copy

of Villagutierre Soto Mayor’s “Historia de la Conquista de la Provincia

de el Itza” was held at $50, or twice the price the old folio fetches in

London.

With no Coast or Interior Survey (except the temporary work of the

Commission on the Northern Boundary), there are few scientific or

historical publications issued by the Government.

The debt of Guatemala is reported at a total (1885) of $5,817,947.19,

drawing interest at six per cent. It is made up of the following items:—

An English loan for which Guatemala became

responsible in the days of the Confederation $554,268.83

An English loan of 1869 (by President Cerna) 3,599,771.75

Government bonds in circulation (Interior debt) 1,663,906.61

-------------

$5,817,947.19

For the payment of the bonds of the Interior, a sinking-fund is provided,

consisting of fifteen per cent of the duties on imports, the sums

received for exemption from military service, etc. The average duties on

imports are between fifty-five and sixty per cent _ad valorem_.

The income of the republic during the year 1882 was:

DIRECT TAXES.

3% on real estate $103,886.05

Road tax 34,830.85

Military tax 13,925.17

Abated taxes 4,132.56

---------- $156,224.63

INDIRECT TAXES.

Duties on imports $1,698,469.93

Duties on exports 66,685.36

Harbor dues 3,960.22

Stamped paper and stamps 114,221.57

Impost on native flour 47,198.19

Impost on salt 27.454.58

Impost on legacies 11,514.06

Beneficio de Reses 99,964.59

5% on transfers of real estate 53,530.42

------------- 2,122,998.92

Tax for higher education $10,127.87

Tax for municipios 10,678.62

Tax for police in the capital 113,296.13

Tax for hospitals 119,507.26

Telegraphs 55,575.96

Mails 25,687.95

Mint 19,518.51

Fondos judiciales 6,513.19

----------- 360,905.49

Excise on liquors $1,266,042.43

Excise on tobacco 346,263.15

Excise on gunpowder and saltpetre 23,994.31

------------- 1,636,299.89

Various income 135,457.44

Contracts, etc. (anticipation of taxes) 2,030,033.01

-------------

$6,441,919.38

Of the expenses of the Government for the same fiscal period, it will be

seen from the following abstract that the army expenses form more than a

sixth of the entire sum, even in a time of peace.

EXPENSES OF ADMINISTRATION.

Department of the Interior $167,349.25

” Treasury 208,872.45

” War 1,164,521.37

” Justice 723,746.93

” Public Instruction 252,891.62

” Foreign Affairs 80,850.11

------------ $2,598,231.73

GENERAL EXPENSES.

Collecting direct taxes $6,962.01

” indirect taxes 32,410.52

Excise on liquors 126,031.04

” tobacco 96,289.65

Higher instruction 25,418.55

Municipios 15,704.77

Pawnshops and pensions 45,053.54

Mails 42,725.16

Telegraphs 101,288.61

Mint 20,539.59

Mobiliario 2,986.76

Hospitals 136,794.20

Police 148,128.12

Confiscations 581.52

Judiciary 6,033.37

Extraordinary 6,606.92

Gunpowder and saltpetre 2,960.64

---------- 816,514.97

Interest $200,325.81

Purchase of tobacco 99,342.05

” gunpowder and saltpetre 5,795.70

Repayments (_Devolutiones_) 14,373.07

Public property 6,197.09

Accounts 2,010.24

----------- 328,043.96

Funding bonds and obligations 2,554,076.94

Subsidy to street-railroad 833.33

Various payments 205,721.45

------------

$6,503,422.38

However dry long columns of figures may be, they tell the story in

the shortest way, and will give to those interested in the work of a

Government some insight into its methods. Like many other Governments,

that of Guatemala anticipates taxes, borrows, and issues paper

obligations. Its chief income is from the sale of liquor and from import

duties. I have in another place described the method of taxing the sale

of liquors, and I may say here that the tax seems to be collected with

fairness; but the heavy import duties offer a premium on smuggling, and

I was told some very ingenious and amusing methods that had been used to

evade the customs. If the ports of Guatemala were not just what they are,

it would be a very difficult matter to collect the revenue from imports.

The currency of Guatemala is silver, with the exception of about $50,000

of Government paper, and, like the silver currency of the United States,

is worth only about seventy per cent of its face in gold; but, unlike

the Northern Republic, Guatemala has not the power to float her debased

coin, and the standard is therefore American gold. To meet its needs the

Government sometimes mortgages to money-lenders its revenues in part,

or even puts a custom-house in pawn; and cases have occurred where its

subsidies have been suspended by arbitrary decree for a year, or even

longer. Hence the unwillingness to embark in any enterprise that is

largely dependent on Government aid. Even the mail-subsidies when paid

are paid with orders on the customs. This, together with the very heavy

import duties, certainly checks the investment of foreign capital; though

to those within the country, and informed as to methods, the duties are

much lightened by purchasing Government bonds at fifty per cent and

paying them for duties at par. By this and similar practices, which I

do not think it best to describe, large mercantile establishments derive

great profit at the expense of the revenues.

To meet the needs of commerce there are but three banks; two, “El Banco

Internacional” and “El Banco Columbiano,” are in the City of Guatemala,

while the third is in Quezaltenango. These have between them a capital

of perhaps $5,000,000, and they do the business of banks of circulation,

deposit, and exchange. The usual rate on deposits subject to sight drafts

is three per cent per annum, and on current accounts and discounts twelve

per cent; while they pay their stockholders from twelve per cent to

twenty per cent in dividends. The Banco Internacional has called in but

seventy per cent of its capital stock. These banks date only from 1875,

and their notes are hardly current outside the larger cities. Many of

the principal mercantile houses do a larger banking business, and hold

extensive private deposits.

Of large corporations Guatemala has but few. That of the Piers (Compañia

de los Muelles de San José y Champerico) has a capital of $250,000; its

profits are said to be immense, as it holds the monopoly of all the

landing facilities on the Pacific coast. The railroads between Guatemala

and San José, and between Champerico and Retalhuleu, are capitalized at

about $5,000,000. The proposed railroad from Puerto Barrios (Santo Tomas)

to the capital, at present mostly owned by natives, will, it is supposed,

cost from twelve to fifteen millions. The street railway in Guatemala has

a capital of $200,000.

The Government owns the entire telegraphic system of the republic,

and all the towns of any importance are connected by more than three

thousand miles of wire, with seventy offices. The expenditures of this

bureau seem to be nearly twice the amount of the receipts, and from the

nature of the country the cost of maintenance must be very great, owing

to the rapid growth of tropical vegetation and the destruction wrought by

insects, especially the _comajen_; yet the tariff is reasonable, and one

can, while paying for a message, pay also for the answer (_contestacion

pagado_). Both the designs on the telegraph blanks and the paper used

are much better than the companies in the United States supply to their

customers. By cable Guatemala has communication with South America,

Mexico, the United States, and Europe.

The mail service is excellent between the principal towns and foreign

ports; but owing to the nature of the country the time consumed over

the less-frequented roads is very great. As a fair indication of the

development of the country since 1871 under the administration of

President Barrios, the great increase in the amount of matter sent

through the mails may be cited; for in that year the total number of

letters, papers, and circulars did not reach fifty thousand, while in

1884 it exceeded three millions. Guatemala has joined the Postal Union,

but demands ten cents per rate on letters leaving her ports. While so

many of the great nations put upon their postage-stamps the portraits of

their rulers or most distinguished men to be spit upon and defaced, this

republic, with better taste, submits only the national bird (quetzal) to

this rough treatment.[47]

What a people imports is always a matter of no slight moment in studying

their social condition; and on examining the classified list which I have

taken from the official publications, one will see several very curious

facts. First a large amount of cinnamon is imported, chiefly to flavor

chocolate, when it might readily be raised at home,—indicating that

the enormous duty of one hundred per cent does not prevent importation

or stimulate home production. The same may be predicated of white wax,

wheat, and flour, for bees flourish in the uplands, and the wheat is

of the best quality; but mills are scarce, and private enterprise is

wanting. Few printed books are imported; and as the domestic publications

are unimportant, we must infer that the Guatemaltecans are not a reading

people. The table also gives an idea of the duties levied, and is worthy

of attention. That the reader may see how little the commerce of the

United States brings to Guatemala, I have given a table of imports by

countries. Nearer than England or France, it is still cheaper to pass her

by and go to the distant markets.

CLASSIFICATION OF IMPORTS BY SEA IN 1884.

Values. Duties.

Oils (vegetable) $14,839.45 $14,128.30

Aguardiente 35,124.70 43,694.75

Cotton thread and cloth 1,607,362.34 1,594,756.48

Firearms 1,758.00 2,435.00

Shoes 3,697.42 3,926.28

Cinnamon 20,845.00 20,194.45

Carriages 2,600.00 1,575.00

Barley 4,386.20 438.62

White wax 3,122.50 2,982.20

Beer 29,856.20 30,267.96

Preserves 47,539.87 41,851.68

Glass 10,725.63 8,397.56

Money 82,932.00 free

Sundry articles 11,375.40 11,594.34

Drugs 21,462.94 22,794.77

Stearine, crude, and candles 14,798.15 11,563.22

Matches 7,235.76 7,359.43

Flour 118,490.00 139,082.10

Iron in bars, etc. 85,852.25 99,637.37

Instruments,—agriculture,

arts, and sciences 2,728.80 272.88

Wool, thread, and cloth 146,294.34 159,381.69

Printed books 12,627.50 1,252.75

Sweet liquors 5,386.65 5,893.49

Linen cloth 11,743.17 11,236.54

Earthenware 15,490.86 14,129.36

Timber for building 35,594.00 free

Machinery 48,475.70 4,847.57

Medicines 52,952.85 54,326.68

Hardware 23,738.46 21,954.95

Wooden furniture 1,143.50 1,865.46

Articles for institutions of

charity or public education 10,837.94 free

Paper 41,694.37 29,358.39

Perfumery 5,873.65 6,034.26

Petroleum and naphtha 14,764.00 8,439.30

Pianos 10,950.00 6,470.00

Tanned leather 56,863.84 31,263.10

Prenderia fina 19,145.00 1,914.50

Utensils of tin, iron, etc. 24,678.26 21,245.84

Clocks 3,956.00 786.55

Empty bags 25,384.83 free

Salt 4,122.30 12,778.56

Silk thread and cloth 102,835.72 116,936.29

Saddles 946.25 1,082.00

Hats of all kinds 23,751.68 24,369.35

Corrugated iron, barbed wire,

carts, pumps 18,462.70 1,536.91

Wheat 60,128.51 28,362.68

Railroad supplies 328,426.37 free

Wine 48,697.40 52,165.24

------------- -------------

$3,281,698.46 $2,674,583.85

IMPORTED IN 1884 FROM

England $1,735,954.87

France 450,365.75

CALIFORNIA =391,782.50=

Germany 170,824.35

NEW ORLEANS =103,548.24=

NEW YORK =98,296.18=

Switzerland 75,173.61

Spain 69,387.49

Italy 51,632.60

China 48,594.32

Belgium 29,781.25

Belize (British Honduras) 28,937.48

Central America 14,569.77

United Slates of Columbia 10,314.05

Chile 2,536.00

------------

$3,281,698.46

California furnishes most of the flour and wheat, but New Orleans most

of the timber for building, while New York contributes printed books,

canned goods, clocks, firearms, and patent medicines. From the three

ports of the United States which are in direct steam communication with

the ports of Guatemala goods valued at $593,626.92 were imported,—less

than came from France and Germany, and not a third part of what England

sends. Yankee traders are certainly left entirely behind in Guatemaltecan

commerce. Without going deeply into the causes which drive the United

States from a natural market, I will state several facts which an

intelligent reader may interpret for himself.

The largest mercantile houses in Guatemala are German; Americans of

the North are absent. When it was suggested to the agent of one of the

largest cotton-mills in New England that the cases in which its cloths

were usually packed for market could not be handled in a country provided

only with mule transportation, the Yankee agent thought it not worth

the trouble to pack in smaller bales, as did the English and French

manufacturers. Ready-made clothes are cheaper in France, and shoes in

Germany and France. If I want barbed wire for my fences, corrugated iron

for my warehouses, or rails for my tramways, my English correspondent can

deliver all these to me on my wharf at Livingston much cheaper than I can

buy any of these manufactures of iron in protected New York. England,

from her experience in her tropical colonies, knows how to prepare

merchandise, and what sorts are needed for the trade with tropical

America; she buys the crop of mahogany, logwood, and coffee, and saves

exchange by selling her own products, and at the same time supports her

own vessels in the carrying trade. If it were not for the fresh fruit

which the United States needs, there would probably not be a single line

of steamers between these countries; for on the Pacific side Guatemala

is merely a way-station. Finally, the sarsaparilla goes to England, and

is there manufactured into extract or syrup for the use of the immense

establishments of patent medicines in the United States.

Now let us see what Guatemala contributes to the needs of foreign

nations; and I give a table of exports for two years, that the changes

may be noted. Of the former staples, such as indigo and cochineal, the

amount now exported is insignificant; the exportation of coffee fell off,

owing to a short crop; sugar was influenced by the low prices ruling in

foreign markets.

TABLE OF EXPORTS.

+--------------------+------------------------------+

| | 1883. |

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

| | Cwt. |Price| Value |

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

|Indigo | 135.02|$1.25| $16.881.25|

|Sugar and muscovado | 44,927.27| .05| 223,136.35|

|Bananas (bunches) | 29,699.00| .40| 11,876.60|

|Ores | 160.80| .20| 3,216.00|

|Cacao | 97.66| .40| 3.905.40|

|Coffee |404,069.39| .12| 4,848,832.68|

|Cochineal | 184.01| .50| 9,200.50|

|Ox-hides | 7,577.41| .20| 151,548.20|

|Deer-skins | 230.83| .40| 9,233.20|

|White wax | 22.34| .50| 1,117.00|

|India-rubber | 3,454.14| .65| 224.519.10|

|Timber (feet) |253,504.00| .04| 10,140.16|

|Heifers | 230.00|25.00| 5,750.00|

|Cows | 89.00|15.00| 1,355.00|

|Woollen cloth | 211.54| 1.50| 31,731.00|

|Sarsaparilla | 332.12| .10| 3,321.20|

|Suelos | 96.06| .40| 3,682.40|

|Various articles | | | 13,375.43|

|Current money | | | 145,515.60|

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

| Totals |744,720.59| |$5,718,341.07|

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

+--------------------+------------------------------+

| | 1884. |

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

| | Cwt. |Price| Value |

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

|Indigo | 62.67|$1.25| $7,833.75|

|Sugar and muscovado | 37,956.95| .04| 151,827.80|

|Bananas (bunches) | 54,633.00| .55| 30,048.15|

|Ores | 26.60| .20| 532.00|

|Cacao | 14.92| .40| 596.80|

|Coffee |371,306.44| .12| 4,455,677.28|

|Cochineal | 8.12| .50| 406.00|

|Ox-hides | 7,888.79| .20| 157,775.80|

|Deer-skins | 248.12| .40| 9,924.80|

|White wax | | | |

|India-rubber | 1,485.80| .35| 52,003.00|

|Timber (feet) |352,006.00| .04| 14,082.64|

|Heifers | | | |

|Cows | | | |

|Woollen cloth | 61.69| 1.50| 9,253.60|

|Sarsaparilla | 632.30| .10| 6,323.00|

|Suelos | 63.31| .40| 2,532.40|

|Various articles | | | 6,272.21|

|Current money | | | 32,852.00|

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

| Totals |826,666.26| |$4,937,941.13|

+--------------------+----------+-----+-------------+

The business is divided between the three principal ports in the

following proportion:—

San José. Champerico. Livingston.

cwt. cwt. cwt.

Imports 308,596.27 62,789.62 51,698.59

Exports 170,615.90 224,739.49 31,134.12

I have elsewhere written of the products that Guatemala might export, and

I willingly turn from the commercial features of the country to those

that affect the comfort and happiness of the inhabitants. A sufficient

government is the first necessity. To sustain this the people must be

educated; and to develop it the country must possess natural riches and

the opportunity of marketing them. But all these elements work, not

in a line, but in a circle, as it were. Without revenue, government

cannot provide for free education; without education, a people will not

establish a wise form of government; without a wise government, the

resources of the country cannot be developed to yield a proper income.

All these things are interdependent. The government must foster education

and protect property; it must encourage those occupations which increase

the material wealth of the people. Increased wealth means larger revenue,

and permits greater expenditures for public works; so government and

people grow together.

Possessed of a remarkably fine climate, a favorable geographical

situation, and great variety in its fertile soil, Guatemala has a

population poor and unable to undertake important works which require

capital. Money must therefore be sought abroad to develop the riches

of the land, which are in agricultural products rather than in mines;

and the Government offers to any industrious, respectable colonists

suitable tracts of public land (_terrenos baldíos_), together with

exemption from duties and taxes for ten years. That this offer may

not seem too attractive, it must be added that the best public lands

remaining undisposed of are remote from ports, with no adequate means

of communication. They are also covered for the most part with dense

forests, to be cleared away only at great expense. Besides, it is well

known that whenever virgin soil is broken up, mysterious fevers and

malarial emanations are liberated from the soil; and although these

are not dangerous to men of good constitution, they certainly are not

pleasant. Not only enterprise and perseverance are needful for the

planter, but a respectable capital as well; for the colonist has to build

his own houses, wharves, and bridges, make his own roads, and own his

tools, animals, boats, and carts.

Labor is both by the day and by the task, and wages are very low. A day’s

labor—from six o’clock in the morning to six at night, with an hour from

ten o’clock to eleven for breakfast (almuerzo), and another from one

o’clock to two for rest—is paid from twenty-five to fifty cents. Laborers

are also hired by the month, with allowance for rations. On the Atlantic

coast the Carib is a good, strong workman when properly managed, while in

the interior the Indios and ladinos supply fully the present demand.

Articles of food are cheap, and some of the prices, as given by the

Minister of the Interior, are as follows: beef, pork, and mutton, eight

cents per pound; fowls of good size, thirty-seven and a half to sixty-two

cents; rice, a dollar and a half to two dollars per arroba (twenty-five

pounds); flour, eight to nine dollars per quintal (one hundred pounds);

maiz, a dollar and a half to three dollars a fanega (four hundred

ears); beans, white, black, or red, four to six dollars a quintal;

eggs, a dollar and a half a hundred; milk, six cents a bottle; cheese,

twelve to twenty-five cents a pound; butter, sixty-two cents per pound.

Guatemaltecan cookery, although simplicity itself in its instalment,

is excellent and wholesome,—none of the vile saleratus-bread, tough

doughnuts, and clammy pies (I have great respect for a good tart) which

are the curse of the country cooking of New England. But let the comida

consist of only tortillas, frijoles, and huevos; these staples are

always well cooked.

Of the industrial and mechanical arts Guatemala has very little to show,

apart from the woven fabrics and pottery already alluded to. Tailors and

shoemakers abound,—and this in a climate where the former might almost

be dispensed with, and where the latter work for not a moiety of the

population. On the other hand, there are few cabinet-makers, although

the native woods offer the choicest material for the skilled workman.

There are no foundries or forges worthy the name, and all machinery is

imported, and repairs must be made in San Francisco or New Orleans.

Glass, porcelain, and stoneware is all imported, although the materials,

of the best quality, are found here in abundance. Fibre-plants and rags

are plentiful, and the consumption of paper is large; but every sheet

is imported,—that used for stamps being made in France. While coconuts,

sesame, cohune, castor-bean, and croton grow abundantly, there is no

commercial manufacture of the vegetable oils; and we have seen that more

than fourteen thousand dollars’ worth were imported in 1884.

While the general climate of Guatemala is remarkably healthy, the people

are exceedingly careless of all sanitary precautions, especially in the

matter of drainage and the waste products of the human body, trusting

to the intervention of vultures and dogs to remove health-endangering

filth. Yellow fever was common through the hot lowlands of the Pacific

coast in 1883, and whooping-cough, measles, and small-pox prevailed

in many parts of the country. The consumption of patent medicines and

empirical preparations, obtained from the apothecary rather than the

physician, is enormous in proportion to the population. Vital statistics

are not obtained with the greatest accuracy, and only the constant care

of the superior officer enables any result worthy of attention to be

obtained. The following table is tolerably accurate. The population is,

as estimated on December 31:—

+-----+---------+--------------------+--------------------+------+-----+

| | | Births. | Deaths. |Increase. |

| | +------+------+------+------+------+------+ | |

|Year.| Popul- |Males.| | |Males.| | | | |

| | ation. | Females. | Females. | | |

| | | | |Total.| | |Total.| Marriages.|

+-----+---------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+-----+

|1881 |1,252,497|28,146|25,708|53,854|14,019|11,940|25,959|27,895|4,611|

|1882 |1,276,961|29,362|26,697|56,059|16,728|14,867|31,595|24,464|4,864|

|1883 |1,278,311|28,488|25,934|54,422|28,431|24,641|53,072| 1,350|4,287|

|1884 | | | | | | | | | |

|1885 | | | | | | | | | |

+-----+---------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+-----+

Of the children born in 1883, 41,260 were legitimate, and 13,162 natural;

16,991 were ladinos, and 37,431 Indios. The legitimate children were in

the proportion of one to every one hundred and twenty-eight of the ladino

population, and one to every forty-one of the Indios. The natural births

stand one to each one hundred and eighty-three ladinos, and one to each

two hundred and seven Indios,—proportions which speak volumes for the

superior morality of the indigenous population.

No less than nine hospitals were supported by the Government in 1883,—one

each in Antigua, Amatitlan, Escuintla, Quezaltenango, Retalhuleu, and

Chiquimula, and three in Guatemala City. In these 11,998 patients were

treated during the year, with the result of one death to every thirteen

treated. Of the diseases from which patients died, the following is a

list of all numbering over ten victims:—

Consumption 75

Fever (perniciosa) 74

Dysentery 68

Entero-colitis 63

Yellow fever 52

Enteritis 42

Pneumonia 33

Alcoholism 24

Small-pox 18

Cachexia paludica 18

Typhoid fever 11

Of the consumptive patients, probably the majority were foreigners

seeking safety in the mild climate of Guatemala; and in the others the

disease was not of throat origin, but sprang from that unclean state that

wise physicians are beginning to recognize as phthisical in its tendency.

I wish I could say more of the remedies of the Indios. In a land

abounding in healing plants, it would be supposed that the inhabitants

would be expert in their qualities; and so the Indios are, if report may

be trusted (they are said to cure even hernia, by applying astringent

herbs to the tumor). But they are shy, and unwilling to display their

knowledge before strangers; and my stay among them was too short to

invite their confidence. The Caribs do not seem to possess much knowledge

of the healing art.

From the bodily ills of a people one turns naturally to the moral

diseases; and it is interesting to note what are the crimes and

misdemeanors to which punishments are most frequently allotted. Of

9,303 persons tried during the course of 1883, 6,125 were accused of

misdemeanors (_faltas_), and 3,178 of crimes (_delitos_). Of the former

class 764 were acquitted, while of those tried for crimes 1,515 were

judged not guilty,—leaving only 1,663 criminals out of a population of

a million and a quarter. The carefully prepared tables published each

year by the Government show that there is hardly one delinquent for each

thousand inhabitants; that notwithstanding the greatly inferior numbers

of the ladinos, this class claims many more convicts; and that eighty per

cent of the criminals have no education.

+--------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

|Crimes or Delitos. |Males.|Females.|Ladinos.|Indios.|

+--------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

|Against authority | 133 | 6 | 111 | 28 |

|Assaults | 56 | 5 | 51 | 10 |

|Wounding | 396 | 21 | 298 | 119 |

|Homicide | 188 | 15 | 117 | 86 |

|Bodily injuries | 312 | 35 | 202 | 145 |

|Adultery | 55 | 55 | 69 | 41 |

|Seduction | 38 | | 24 | 14 |

|Rape | 42 | | 41 | 1 |

|Lewdness | 68 | | 50 | 18 |

|Injurias | 80 | 50 | 106 | 24 |

|Cattle-stealing | 74 | | 40 | 34 |

|Tricks | 39 | 10 | 44 | 5 |

|Robbery | 32 | 5 | 33 | 4 |

|Larceny | 303 | 49 | 264 | 88 |

|Against liquor laws | 276 | 316 | 313 | 279 |

|Smuggling tobacco | 25 | 12 | 25 | 12 |

|Defrauding | 95 | 75 | 71 | 99 |

|Desertion | 49 | | 48 | 1 |

|All other delitos | 227 | 36 | 188 | 75 |

+--------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

|Totals | 2488 | 690 | 2095 | 1083 |

+--------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

+--------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+------+

|Crimes or Delitos. |Read.|Write.|Uneducated.|Single.|Married.|Total.|

+--------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+------+

|Against authority | 8 | 48 | 83 | 56 | 83 | 139 |

|Assaults | 6 | 18 | 37 | 37 | 24 | 61 |

|Wounding | 19 | 82 | 315 | 215 | 201 | 417 |

|Homicide | 4 | 46 | 153 | 107 | 96 | 203 |

|Bodily injuries | 12 | 40 | 295 | 174 | 173 | 347 |

|Adultery | 7 | 24 | 79 | 25 | 85 | 110 |

|Seduction | 1 | 9 | 28 | 31 | 7 | 38 |

|Rape | 4 | 20 | 18 | 33 | 9 | 42 |

|Lewdness | 7 | 18 | 43 | 49 | 19 | 68 |

|Injurias | 14 | 29 | 87 | 62 | 68 | 130 |

|Cattle-stealing | | 14 | 60 | 26 | 48 | 74 |

|Tricks | 4 | 22 | 23 | 34 | 15 | 49 |

|Robbery | 2 | 12 | 23 | 31 | 6 | 37 |

|Larceny | 13 | 80 | 259 | 208 | 144 | 352 |

|Against liquor laws | 23 | 60 | 509 | 175 | 417 | 592 |

|Smuggling tobacco | 1 | 8 | 28 | 11 | 26 | 37 |

|Defrauding | 4 | 16 | 150 | 61 | 109 | 170 |

|Desertion | 1 | 7 | 41 | 28 | 21 | 49 |

|All other delitos | 18 | 84 | 161 | 126 | 137 | 236 |

+--------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+------+

|Totals | 148 | 639 | 2392 | 1489 | 1688 | 3178 |

+--------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+------+

[Illustration: A COURT SCENE AT LIVINGSTON.]

Included in the “other _delitos_” are several crimes much more common

in New England and elsewhere,—perjury, nine; libel, fifteen; arson,

thirteen; poisoning, three; infanticide, four; bribery, two; abandonment

of infants, four. In Livingston the “Court” kindly consented to sit for

its portrait; and although this abode of the blind goddess was very dark,

I got a satisfactory picture. I also photographed a man sitting in the

stocks and undergoing a whipping; but this the principal citizens prayed

me to suppress.

+---------------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

|Misdemeanors or faltas. |Males.|Females.|Ladinos.|Indios.|

+---------------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

|Against public order |3,680 | 740 | 1,679 | 2,520|

| ” municipal law | 146 | 13 | 111 | 38 |

| ” persons | 933 | 393 | 832 | 387 |

| ” property | 152 | 31 | 141 | 42 |

| ” military discipline| 37 | | 21 | 16 |

+---------------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

| |4,948 | 1,177 | 2,784 | 3,003 |

+---------------------------+------+--------+--------+-------+

+---------------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+

|Misdemeanors or faltas. |Read.|Write.|Uneducated.|Single.|Married.|

+---------------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+

|Against public order | 170 | 496 | 3,466 | 1,861 | 2,276 |

| ” municipal law | 8 | 29 | 87 | 69 | 55 |

| ” persons | 34 | 157 | 879 | 620 | 453 |

| ” property | 3 | 20 | 144 | 107 | 41 |

| ” military discipline| 5 | 5 | 27 | 13 | 24 |

+---------------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+

| | 220 | 707 | 4,603 | 2,674 | 2,849 |

+---------------------------+-----+------+-----------+-------+--------+

A notable fact in regard to punishments in Guatemala is their publicity.

In New England every effort is made to conceal criminals from public

gaze; the punishment which is intended to deter others from a similar

act is, foolishly enough, merely a matter of hearsay to the bulk of the

population. A silly sentimentality hides the convicts in prisons better

and more commodious than the homes of a majority of the people, feeds

them with sufficient and wholesome food, and in general wastes more

pity on them than it vouchsafes to the honest poor,—and all this at the

expense of innocent citizens! In Guatemala I examined many prisons,

finding them all open to inspection. The passer-by can see through the

grated door of the _carcél_ all the prisoners within. When finally

sentenced, the criminals are put upon the public roads and set to work

under guard and chained, so that every one may be reminded that the

“way of transgressors is hard.” In the prisons they sleep on mats, and

receive from the Government a real (twelve and a half cents) a day, with

which to buy food. In the new prisons all the modern improvements are

introduced, and hard labor is provided in great variety. I believe also

that as large a proportion of crimes is detected and punished as in any

other country. I have been enabled to follow several cases through the

courts, and found the decisions in strict accordance with the law, both

in criminal and civil actions.

It would be unfair to pass in complete silence the darker scenes in the

life of the Guatemaltecan republic; but I confess to an ignorance as to

the exact truth of the stories that have been whispered about,—whispers

indeed that I heard myself while in the City of Guatemala. Distinguished

members of the old conservative party assured me that they lived in daily

dread of the Government. Spies and informers were ready at all times to

entrap them if in an unguarded moment they should utter their opinion

of the political situation, or condemn official corruption. Trial by

court-martial—that most odious form of injustice—might result in their

banishment or death; and I was told that the laws, however generally

wise, really depended on the caprice of the President, who could

suspend or annul them whenever he saw occasion. I am sure that these

persons believed what they told me with bated breath; but I also know

to what extreme opinions political dislikes will lead in these Southern

republics. On the death of Barrios and the accession of Barillas, it

is said that eight hundred political prisoners were released from the

prisons where they had been immured by the late President, often without

even the form of a trial. The universal rule of favoritism is too evident

to be concealed, and the _amigo del Presidente_ has certainly undue

power. To our Northern haste the tedious delay of all official work

is a marked contrast, for the officials have not the skill, wisdom,

or cunning of the members of our Northern legislatures, who remain

in session an unconscionable time, apparently overwhelmed with work,

although when they at last adjourn, the records show scant results. The

Government of Guatemala is republican in name only, the President having

actually as much irresponsible power as the Czar; but so far as actually

proved, this power is used with moderation, and is perhaps a political

necessity of the country and race, however repugnant to Anglo-Saxon

ideas. As in all small governments, there is much form and red-tape, and

the individual or company who has business with the authorities must

have an accredited agent at the seat of Government to present petitions,

press suit, or patiently await the result; no person at a distance has

any prospect of prompt attention. With the exception of some of the

higher officials, there are but few Guatemaltecans who really welcome

foreigners, and among the Indios there is little attempt to conceal the

feelings of jealousy or distrust with which outsiders are regarded. While

the future growth of the country depends on the introduction of foreign

capital, there are not many, now that Barrios is no more, who will dare

to offend popular prejudices by openly taking the part of foreigners

who either have invested capital here, or intend to do so. The popular

idea of the day is a renewed confederation of the five republics, with

Guatemala at the head; this means no extension of foreign relations,

but the impotent self-sufficiency that has always distinguished Central

America and retarded her advance.

Many indications point to an attempt in the near future to renew the

confederation of the five republics, and it is not improbable that

Mexico may be included in the Central American Estados Unidos. It was

the ambition of General Barrios to become emperor or president (the name

matters little) of all Central America; and he lost his life in the

attempt. His death will not deter the politicians of the several States

from attempting a revolution which may aggrandize their private fortunes

in the general disturbance. If Mexico—a very inferior nation both in the

character of her population and in natural resources—could be left out,

it would seem very possible to unite again the fortunes of Guatemala,

Honduras, San Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica; but such a confederacy

would not attract foreign capital as readily as a treaty alliance between

quite independent republics, owing to a widespread distrust of the

permanency of any confederacy. If the laws of the United States stretched

to the Isthmus of Darien, doubtless capital would eagerly enter this rich

field; but at present it is as safe under the laws of Guatemala as under

those of any Central American country.

As England and Germany always protect the interests of their subjects

wherever invested, and as the United States Government has neither the

will nor the power to guard the interests of her people in foreign lands,

it is not strange that Englishmen and Germans embark in profitable

enterprises in the Central-American Republics while Americans hesitate.

At present we have to trust for our commercial rights to the general laws

of nations and the favorable inclinations of the existing Government.

Guatemala · 第 10 / 13 章