Another day she sweetly remarked, "This knife has very bad bladders."

As knives in our country are not generally endowed with that physical

possession, I could only stare my astonishment.

"Eh, I see! It is an _English_ word, and you do not understand it. It

means _lame_."

By which I discovered that had she spoken our transatlantic _patois_ she

would have said "_blades_."

Every one of our Relicts had her private sitting-room attached to her

bed-room, the house having been built expressly to suit the demands of

_bourgeois_ widows with fortunes. Thus our _salon_ was of very little

account until after dinner, when our widows, instead of returning to

their own rooms, the garden, or the boulevard, where they spent the day,

herded together around card-tables almost as closely as sheep in a pen.

The _salon_ was not intended for daytime use; in the bitterest weather

it had no fire until evening, and it had but a single window, which

looked out upon the pavement of a well-like court arched over, three

stories above, by a handkerchief bit of sky. Very little light or air

ever entered the box-like place; during the day its atmosphere was stale

and heavy, at night almost fetid. Whenever we ventured to pass an hour

there our struggle was always against fate. Slyly we would leave the one

door an inch ajar, or surreptitiously unclose the window a fraction as

much. Scarcely, however, had we begun to congratulate ourselves upon

success when half a score of antique roses flaunted and flared, and the

death-knell of sly hopes sounded with echoed and re-echoed cry: "_Mon

Dieu!_ I smell air!" "_Mon Dieu!_ Smell you not air?" "_Mon Dieu!_ Smell

we not air?" "_Mon Dieu!_ Smells she not air?" "_Mon Dieu!_ Smell they

not air?"

Almost all our _veuves_ had children and grandchildren in Paris, and we

were continually surprised to see the mundane elegance of these younger

branches of our withered old trees. It showed the usual history,

however, of _bourgeois_ parents who had worked steadily, lived humbly

and economically, to gather _dots_ for their daughters and open careers

for their sons, to see them thus rise to positions in life far above

their parents. Every day some of these younger branches came to our

house in handsome carriages and toilets; and indeed on some days the

number of elegant visitors who rang at our door gave the impression of a

gay reception _a la mode_ rather than of the ordinary visitors of a

_pension bourgeoise_ at Saint-Maude.

One of our Relicts was decidedly less _bourgeoise_ and more _paysanne_

than any of the rest. She was round as a ball, seventy years of age, and

dressed always in short gray petticoats, black short-gown, and close

white cap. Madame Boulanger kept close watch upon her, and tried to

confine her to the sunny, high-walled garden set with a number of round

little iron tables, where our Relicts took their after-_dejeuner cafe_

on sunny days. But Madame Boulanger was not Argus-eyed, and thus we

often saw Madame Leroy escape through the front door and roll like a

huge balloon along the boulevard, bent on what she called "collecting

her rents." The way she did it was to enter every open door and accost

every grown person she saw with the stern reproach that he was

behind-hand with his rent, and if he did not pay up by to-morrow she

would send the _huissier_ to sell him out. The poor creature was so well

known in the neighborhood that she never received rough treatment, and

was generally so thoroughly tired out by her rent-collecting as to be

quite ready to return without resistance whenever one of our servants

sought her. When she did not escape, and mingled with the conglomerate

widowhood of the garden (she was never permitted in the _salon_, and

went to bed with the chickens), her time was spent, hour after hour, day

after day, month after month, going from Relict to Relict, telling

always the same story,--always the same, and always a true one:

"Are you in trade? I am. My husband and I came to Paris from Normandy

fifty years ago, on foot, with one hundred francs. We kept a

green-grocery on Rue des Saints-Peres. When my husband died he left me

one hundred thousand francs. I go to collect my rents: will you go? Are

you in trade? I am. My husband and I came to Paris on foot," etc., etc.,

etc.

One of the most elegant of all our visitors was to this poor old Madame

Leroy. She always came in an elegant landau, with liveried coachman and

footman. Her toilets were of incomparable luxury, but likewise of

restrained and cultured taste, being usually of black velvet,

duchess-like laces, and queenly furs. She always went directly to this

old peasant-woman's handsomely-furnished rooms, and we never saw her

except as she descended from her carriage before the windows at which we

sat. She was a tall, finely-formed, aristocratic-looking brunette of

thirty-five or forty, artistically gotten up as to complexion and hair,

and always smiling affectionately at the tea-kettle old figure waiting

at the door to greet her. This aristocratic lady was known in the house

as Madame la Princesse, and was the daughter of our ancient _paysanne_

and green-grocer, whom a Slav noble had taken from a _cafe chantant_ in

Constantinople to endow with his name and fortune.

Another of our _veuves_ filled her private _salon_ with cats. There were

seven of them, and the odor of her premises was ancient and cat-like.

Three of these cats were sans eyes, sans teeth, sans everything, and had

lived with their mistress in these very rooms years before, when booming

shells sped hot over the house, and fell sometimes close beside it,

during the siege of Paris.

"How did you manage to feed them?" we asked.

"I bought slices of cat in the market and stewed them in wine," answered

Madame Pognon. "Wine and rice were the only things we were not stinted

in. Thus I could always make a ragout for Pierre, Jean, and Jacques, and

they throve on it. But I had to keep them shut up, or they would have

made ragouts instead of eaten them."

A characteristic of our Relicthood _en bloc_ was its idleness. I never

saw one of them with a piece of knitting or any other work in her hands

during all the weeks we were there. In fine weather they loitered and

basked in the garden, gossiping or amusing themselves with novelettes

cut from the penny papers and passed from one to the other in turn. The

front door stood almost always open, and the suburban neighborhood

about it was during pleasant days largely flecked by the grave gowns and

white caps belonging to our _pension_. Nearly all were Bonapartists (for

was not trade good during the Empire?) and found the present times sadly

out of joint. Nearly all had stood behind counters or at cashiers'

desks, and had thus never learned more strictly feminine employments,

and now, retired upon their _rentes_, they found time heavy upon their

hands. None were conspicuously _devote_: they had never been so in their

younger days, and they were not of natures to be spiritualized by long

familiarity with life. Death could not be far off from most of them, but

they never spoke of it, never seemed to think of it; and, although life

was dull, they clung to it as by monotonous habit that _is_ but knows

not why.

* * * * *

Still another of our well-remembered _pensions_ was on the bright

Vesuvian Bay. The flaming mountain overlooked us, Naples floated beyond

us like a dream-city, before us the Mediterranean shimmered and shone

like a sultana's satin tunic. We could drop a stone from our windows

into the sea; we ran dripping from our sea-baths up long stairs, across

tiled balconies, into our vast rooms; all day and all night the swish

and lisp of the soft tides mingled with our voices and dreams.

As somebody said of us that summer, we were a "cosmopolitan mess," a

hotch-potch of nationalities, such as is always found in so general a

rendezvous as Italy. We were rather less of a hotch-potch, however, than

in London, but somehow it seemed to us that our peculiarities were more

salient than they could ever appear in proper and conventional

Bloomsbury. We were largely German, as the travelling population of

Italy is. In Bloomsbury our medium of expression was the English

language, and English was the language at table, no matter how foreign

our company. But in this Italian _pensione_, where the faces were

continually changing, the languages changed as often. One day only

English was the rule, and those who could not unite with the majority

remained mute. Another day, with a tremendous incursion of Teutons, who

always seem to travel in hordes, only German gutturals held the table,

and we who had no facility with them muttered meek French or sullen

English to our neighbors. The next day French would be the rule, and

Teuton must mumble in it and Anglo-Saxon stammer or hold its peace.

Curiously enough, although we were in Italy, Italian was rarely, almost

never, spoken among us, our only use of it being in orders to the

servants. Our landlady was English, with an Italian husband, but they

both held only upper menial places in the establishment, and never

dreamed of sitting at table with us or of meeting us upon any terms of

equality. This want of familiarity with Italian proves how little mere

travellers and haunters of _pensioni_ ever know of the middle-class

inhabitants of the country. The Italians themselves stir from home very

seldom; they almost never admit foreigners into their own houses, and

when forced abroad seek cheap Italian inns rather than the innumerable

boarding-houses infested by the outer barbarian. Italian peasant life is

open to all foreigners, but not that of the middle classes.

Our landlord had a daughter whose cheek was pale and whose garments hung

loosely upon her. When first we remarked this and her heavy eye,

everybody laughed.

"The usual story,--loves and rides away," was remarked in various

languages.

It was heartless to laugh, but we could not help it. For wan and

drooping landlords' daughters had become so familiar to us in Italian

_pensioni_ that we needed only to glance at the set of each one's gown

and the tint of her cheek to know if HE were still present and wooing or

had faithlessly ridden away. The race, however, was not always to the

rider.

One evening under our window, when the air swooned with languid scent of

lemon- and orange-blossoms, we heard a sobbing and a sighing that

reminded us of the Mock Turtle in "Alice in Wonderland." Glancing out,

by the soft light of the summer moon, enhanced by the shimmering water,

we saw two persons who seemed to be weeping in each other's arms under a

shuddering ilex. The stouter one--he was not the taller--we recognized

as a young Teuton for whose sake we had seen a gown very loose and a

cheek very wan afar off among the Alban Hills only a month before.

"I love you, Tita, I love you. I have thought I loved a dozen times

before, but I was mistaken. I never loved any girl before," he boohooed.

"_Dio mio!_" laughed the girl. "All the _Tedeschi_ say that who come

here. I wonder they are not tired of the old tune. I--I am _fiance_ to a

_bel Espagnol_ who rode away a month ago, and who ought to have been

back before now."

We found our Teuton fellow-_pensionnaires_ to have tastes more unnatural

than for landlords' daughters. One of them we had remarked for his

extreme beauty, not entirely of feature and rich olive hue, but of

pathetic, dreamy expression,--as we said, like an ideal St. John. At

first we never spoke of him except as "St. John." We gradually ceased to

call him so, however, when we had seen him several times at table, and

we grew finally so coarsely irreverent as to call him "_Mange-tout_."

Our meat was brought from distant Naples, making the journey without

ice, under a broiling Italian sun. Often it came to table so shorn of

its pristine freshness that not the hungriest of us could condone its

odor. One sultry night everybody's plate went away untouched, save two

or three. Flesh and fowl were "high,"--yea, "twice high," as the British

gourmet prefers his game. St. John's plate was _not_ sent away. That

ideal being was served three times, after which he rose and helped

himself from the side-table, remarking half apologetically as he did so,

"The cook has really surpassed himself to-day!"

"Ja! ja!" echoed our Teutons.

We saw our St. John next morning sucking raw eggs before his coffee.

"Because the _nourriture_ is poor. I do it to strengthen me," he

explained.

"When I am well I eat all I can hold," he confidentially imparted to the

_table-d'hote_. "When I am ill I eat more than I do when I am well."

One of our _pensionnaires_ was a swarthy Brazilian, living upon a

colossal and mysteriously-begotten fortune and spending what remained to

him of life upon the Mediterranean shores. He knew every _pensione_ of

the whole wide region, and in strident, barbaric tones--continually

reminding us of the savage aboriginal blood betrayed by narrow eyes and

high cheek-bones--flooded our _table-d'hote_ with the gossip of

_pensioni_ at Capri, Castellamare, Pompeii, Sorrento, and Salerno,--the

giddiness of all the widows, the cunning of the young girls, the

wickedness of the wives, and the barefaced or clever intriguing of

husband-hunting mammas. All that year, as we quietly slipped from one

Mediterranean _pensione_ to another, we met and recognized the heroes

and heroines of our Brazilian's _chroniques scandaleuses_, and we

breathed many a thanksgiving that we were slipping east while he slipped

west and thus were not known of name and evil fame in advance of our

coming.

Our Brazilian was a devout Catholic, which led to his giving great

offence at our table. Nobody could endure to pass him anything or to

take anything from him, and the hideous bird-of-prey-like rattling of

his right hand at any service turned many a delicate appetite away and

made our Brazilian of almost Gorgon-like effect upon all new-comers. The

finger-nails of his right hand were vowed to the Virgin: for two years

they had been uncut, and now, like fiendish claws, extended two inches

beyond the withered and dusky fingers.

"Why am I not liked by _ces belles dames_?" he asked one day. "They

never ask me to their excursions; they seem to shrink from taking my

hand."

"Because of your talons," somebody ventured to explain.

"Oh, no! the Blessed Virgin would never allow _that_," he asserted

confidently.

Before the end of the summer, however, he seemed to lose confidence in

the Virgin's tampering with natural law for his sake. One day we saw

that the talons were sacrificed, and were told that the Mother of God

had announced to our Brazilian in a dream that she would accept a vow

never to cut his hair in place of the devoted nails.

A few days later our _divoto_ came upon the loggia, where sat a bevy of

ladies of many nations, in a screeching aboriginal rage.

"I sacrificed my vow to you _belles dames_, although I refused it to

Madame la Duchesse de B----," he screamed, "and yet you avoid me. Am I

not an _homme fait_" (certainly our sixty-year-old Brazilian had never

read "Pendennis"), "and better than any of these boys you admire? Do you

imagine the Blessed Virgin will not pay you off for this? Do you think

she will go back on a man like me,--of whom Victor Emanuel himself was

jealous when I rode on the Pincian with Madame la Princesse della

Gr----?"

* * * * *

We thus found many peculiar people in the varied experiences of _nos

pensions_. We found often learning and often culture, but more vulgarity

than we did refinement, more splendor than delicacy of habit, more

blatant ignorance than culture, more _sans gene_ than dignity of manners

and character. It is always thus in any mere "cosmopolitan mess," any

"hotch-potch of nationalities." For the eccentric and obnoxious types

are always and everywhere those most largely _en evidence_, while the

gentle and refined nestles closest to the cool, still, mossy ground,

leaving sunny flaunting to wider blooms and stronger perfumes.

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