CHAPTER XL.

EASTER SUNDAY IN NEW YORK.

_New York, April 6 (Easter Sunday.)_

[Illustration: A BELLOWING SOPRANO.]

This morning I went to Dr. Newton's church in Forty-eighth Street. He

has the reputation of being one of the best preachers in New York, and

the choir enjoys an equally great reputation. The church was literally

packed until the sermon began, and then some of the strollers who had

come to hear the anthems moved on. Dr. Newton's voice and delivery were

not at all to my taste, so I did not sit out his sermon either. He has a

big, unctuous voice, with the intonations and inflections of a showman

at the fair. He has not the flow of ideas that struck me so forcibly

when I heard the late Henry Ward Beecher in London; he has not the

histrionic powers of Dr. Talmage, either. There was more show than

beauty about the music, too. A bellowing, shrieking soprano overpowered

all the other voices in the choir, including that of a really beautiful

tenor that deserved to be heard.

* * * * *

New York blossoms like the rose on Easter Day. Every woman has a new

bonnet and walks abroad to show it.

[Illustration: SOME EASTER BONNETS.]

There are grades in millinery as there are in society. The imported

bonnet takes the proudest rank; it is the aristocrat in the world of

headgear. It does not always come with the conqueror (in one of her

numerous trunks), but it always comes to conquer, and a proud, though

ephemeral triumph it enjoys, perched on the dainty head of a New York

belle, and supplemented by a frock from Felix's or Redfern's.

It is a unique sight, Fifth Avenue on Easter Sunday, when all the

up-town churches have emptied themselves of their gayly garbed

worshipers.

[Illustration: KEEPING LENT.]

The "four hundred" have been keeping Lent in polite, if not rigorous,

fashion. Who shall say what it has cost them in self-sacrifice to limit

themselves to the sober, modest violet for table and bonnet decoration

during six whole weeks? These things cannot be lightly judged by the

profane. I have even heard of sweet, devout New York girls who limited

themselves to one pound of _marrons glaces_ a week during Lent. Such

feminine heroism deserves mention.

[Illustration: A CLUB WINDOW.]

And have they not been sewing flannel for the poor, once a week, instead

of directing the manipulation of silk and gauze for their own fair

forms, all the week long? Who shall gauge the self-control necessary for

fasting such as this? But now Dorcas meetings are over, and dances begin

again to-morrow. The Easter anthem has been sung, and the imported

bonnet takes a turn on Fifth Avenue to salute and to hob-nob with

Broadway imitations during the hour between church and lunch. To New

Yorkers this Easter Church parade is as much of an institution in its

way as those of Hyde Park during the season are to the Londoners. It

was plain that the people sauntering leisurely on the broad sidewalks,

the feminine portion at least, had not come out solely for religious

exercise in church, but had every intention to see and to be seen,

especially the latter. On my way down, I saw some folks who had not been

to church, and only wanted to see, so stood with faces glued to the

windows of the big clubs, looking out at the kaleidoscopic procession:

old bachelors, I daresay, who hold the opinion that spring bonnets,

whether imported or home-grown, ought to be labeled "dangerous." At all

events they were gazing as one might gaze at some coveted but

out-of-reach fruit, and looking as if they dared not face their

fascinating young townswomen in all the splendor of their new war paint.

A few, perhaps, were married men, and this was their quiet protest

against fifty-dollar hats and five-hundred-dollar gowns.

The sight was beautiful and one not to be forgotten.

* * * * *

In the evening I dined with Colonel Robert G. Ingersoll and the members

of his family. I noticed something which struck me as novel, but as

perfectly charming. Each man was placed at table by the side of his

wife, including the host and hostess. This custom in the colonel's

family circle (I was the only guest not belonging to it) is another

proof that his theories are put into practice in his house. Dinner and

time vanished with rapidity in that house, where everything breathes

love and happiness.

A Frenchman in America: Recollections of Men and Things · 第 40 / 43 章