CHAPTER XXI.

TORONTO--THE CITY--THE LADIES--THE SPORTS--STRANGE CONTRASTS--THE

CANADIAN SCHOOLS.

_Toronto, February 9._

Have passed three very pleasant days in this city, and had two beautiful

audiences in the Pavilion.

Toronto is a thoroughly American city in appearance, but only in

appearance, for I find the inhabitants British in heart, in tastes, and

habits. When I say that it is an American city, I mean to say that

Toronto is a large area, covered with blocks of parallelograms and dirty

streets, overspread with tangles of telegraph and telephone wires. The

hotels are perfectly American in every respect.

The suburbs are exceedingly pretty. Here once more are fine villas

standing in large gardens, a sight rarely seen near an American city. It

reminds me of England. I admire many buildings, the University[2]

especially.

English-looking, too, are the rosy faces of the Toronto ladies whom I

passed in my drive. How charming they are with the peach-like bloom that

their outdoor exercise gives them!

I should like to be able to describe, as it deserves, the sight of

these Canadian women in their sleighs, as the horses fly along with

bells merrily jingling, the coachman in his curly black dogskin and huge

busby on his head. Furs float over the back of the sleigh, and, in it,

muffled up to the chin in sumptuous skins and also capped in furs, sits

the radiant, lovely Canadienne, the milk and roses of her complexion

enhanced by the proximity of the dark furs. As they skim past over the

white snow, under a glorious sunlit blue sky, I can call to mind no

prettier sight, no more beautiful picture, to be seen on this huge

continent, so far as I have got yet.

One cannot help being struck, on coming here from the United States, at

the number of lady pedestrians in the streets. They are not merely

shopping, I am assured, nor going straight from one point to another of

the town, but taking their constitutional walks in true English fashion.

My impresario took me in the afternoon to a club for ladies and

gentlemen, and there I had the, to me, novel sight of a game of hockey.

On a large frozen pond there was a party of young people engaged in this

graceful and invigorating game, and not far off was a group of little

girls and boys imitating their elders very sensibly and, as it seemed to

me, successfully. The clear, healthy complexion of the Canadian women is

easy to account for, when one sees how deep-rooted, even after

transplantation, is the good British love of exercise in the open air.

Last evening I was taken to a ball, and was able to see more of the

Canadian ladies than is possible in furs, and on further acquaintance I

found them as delightful in manners as in appearance; English in their

coloring and in their simplicity of dress, American in their natural

bearing and in their frankness of speech.

* * * * *

[Illustration: A HOCKEY PLAYER.]

Churches, churches, everywhere. In my drive this afternoon, I counted

twenty-eight in a quarter of an hour. They are of all denominations,

Catholic, Anglican, Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, etc., etc. The

Canadians must be still more religious--I mean still more

church-going--than the English.

From seven in the evening on Saturday, all the taverns are closed, and

remain closed throughout Sunday. In England the Bible has to compete

with the gin bottle, but here the Bible has all its own way on Sundays.

Neither tram-car, omnibus, cab, nor hired carriage of any description is

to be seen abroad. Scotland itself is outdone completely; the land of

John Knox has to take a back seat.

The walls of this city of churches and chapels are at the present moment

covered with huge coarse posters announcing in loud colors the arrival

of a company of performing women. Of these posters, one represents

Cleopatra in a bark drawn through the water by nude female slaves.

Another shows a cavalcade of women dressed in little more than a

fig-leaf. Yet another represents the booking-office of the theater

stormed by a crowd of _blase_-looking, single eye-glassed old _beaux_,

grinning with pleasure in anticipation of the show within. Another

poster displays the charms of the proprietress of the undertaking. You

must not, however, imagine any harm of the performers whose attractions

are so liberally placarded. They are taken to their cars in the depot

immediately after the performance and locked up; there is an

announcement to that effect. These placards are merely eye-ticklers. But

this mixture of churches, strict sabbatarianism, and posters of this

kind, is part of the eternal history of the Anglo-Saxon race--violent

contrast.

* * * * *

Aschool inspector has kindly shown me several schools in the town.

The children of rich and poor alike are educated together in the public

schools, from which they get promoted to the high schools. All these

schools are free. Boys and girls sit on the same benches and receive the

same education, as in the United States. This enables the women in the

New World to compete with men for all the posts that we Europeans

consider the monopoly of man; it also enables them to enjoy all the

intellectual pleasures of life. If it does not prevent them, as it has

yet to be proved that it does, from being good wives and mothers, the

educational system of the New World is much superior to the European

one. It is essentially democratic. Europe will have to adopt it.

Society in the Old World will not stand long on its present basis. There

will always be rich and poor, but every child that is born will require

to be given a chance, and, according as he avails himself of it or not,

will be successful or a failure. But give him a chance, and the greatest

and most real grievance of mankind in the present day will be removed.

Every child that is born in America, whether in the United States or in

Canada, has that chance.

[Illustration]

FOOTNOTE:

[2] Destroyed by fire three days after I left Toronto.

A Frenchman in America: Recollections of Men and Things · 第 21 / 43 章