cape Disappointment extending in a south west direction far out into the
stream, the cape being washed on the west side by the ocean. Cape
Disappointment and Chinook point, a few miles above it, form Baker's
bay, which affords good anchorage for vessels as soon as they round the
point.[177] This cape presents a rocky shore, is quite high, and covered
with timber. An American had taken it as his land claim, according to
the laws of the territory; but during the last winter, he sold his right
to Mr. Ogden, then one of the principal factors, but now Governor of the
Hudson's Bay Company in Oregon, for one thousand dollars. A
fortification on this cape would command the entrance of the river by
the northern channel, which is immediately around the point, and as it
is said, not more than half a mile in width.[178]
Point Adams, the southern cape of the Columbia, is a little above cape
Disappointment. It is low and sandy, and continues a sand ridge four
miles to Clatsop plains. This point, and the high ground at Astoria, as
before stated, form Young's bay, near which the ridge is covered with
timber. Near point Adams is the southern channel or entrance into the
Columbia, which is thought to be preferable to the northern channel; and
I think either of them much better than heretofore represented. In each
there is a sufficiency of water to float any sized vessel. With the
advantages of light houses, buoys, and skillful pilots, which the
increasing commerce of the country must soon secure, the harbor at the
mouth of the Columbia would compare well with those on the Atlantic
coast; and I may say that it would be superior to many of them.
As we ascend, Astoria occupies probably the first suitable site for a
town. It stands upon a gradual slope, which extends from the bank of the
river up to the mountain. The timber was once taken off of some forty or
fifty acres here, which, except about twenty acres, has since been
suffered to grow up again, and it is now a thicket of spruce and briars.
Five or six old dilapidated buildings, which are occupied by the
Hudson's Bay Company, who have a small stock of goods for trading {108}
with the natives, and a few old looking lodges upon the bank of the
river, filled with greasy, filthy Indians, constitute Astoria.[179]
The person in charge of this establishment, whose name is Birney, seems
to be a distant, haughty, sulky fellow, whose demeanor and looks belie
the character generally given to a mountaineer or backwoodsman.[180] As
evidence of his real character, I will state one circumstance as it was
related to me by persons residing in the vicinity of the place. During
the summer or fall, while the British war vessel Modesté was lying at
Astoria, one of the sailors fell overboard and was drowned. Search was
made, but his body could not be found. Several weeks afterwards the body
of a man was found upon the shore, a short distance above Astoria.
Information was immediately communicated to Birney, who promised to give
the body a decent burial. About two weeks after this, some Indians
travelling along the shore, attracted to the place by a disagreeable
scent and the number of buzzards collected together, discovered the body
of a man much mangled, and in a state of putrefaction. They informed two
white men, Trask, and Duncan,[181] who immediately made enquiry as to
whether the body found on the beach previously had been buried, and
received for answer from Birney, _that it was no countryman of his, but
it was likely one of the late emigrants from the States that had been
drowned at the Cascade Falls_. Trask and Duncan proceeded to bury the
body, and found it to be in the garb of a British sailor or marine.
This, to say the least, was carrying national prejudice a little too
far.
Near Astoria, and along the river, several claims have been taken, and
commencements made at improving. Anchorage may be had near the shore.
Three miles above Astoria is Tongue point,[182] a narrow rocky ridge
some three hundred feet high, putting out about a mile into the river;
but at the neck it is low and not more than two hundred yards across.
The two channels of the river unite below this point. Opposite is Gray's
bay, a large, beautiful sheet of water, of sufficient depth to float
ships. Above and on the south side of the river is Swan bay, a large
sheet of water, though shallow, presenting numerous bars at low tides. A
deep channel has been cut through this bay, which affords an entrance
into a stream that comes in from the south, about two hundred yards
wide, and from appearance is navigable some distance up.[183] In this
vicinity the whole country is covered with heavy timber. In {109} the
indentation in the mountain range south of the river, there seems to be
large scopes of good rich land, which would produce well if cleared of
timber. From Tongue point across Gray's bay to Catalamet point is about
sixteen miles. Small craft are frequently compelled to run the southern
channel, inside of a cluster of islands called Catalamet Islands, which
passes "old Catalamet town," as it is called, a point where once stood
an Indian village. Four or five claims have been taken here, but none of
them have been improved. A short distance from the river are several
beautiful prairies, surrounded with heavy timber. A small stream enters
here, which affords water power a short distance up.[184]
A few miles above old Catalamet town, near the top of the bluff, about
four hundred yards from the Columbia, stands Wilson & Hunt's saw mill,
which is driven by a small stream coming down from the mountain; after
leaving the wheel the stream falls about sixty feet, striking tide water
below. A sluice or platform is so constructed as to convey the lumber
from the mill to the level below, where it is loaded into boats and run
out to the river, where it can be loaded into vessels.
Upon our arrival at this place, the bark Toulon was lying at anchor,
about fifty yards from the shore, taking in a cargo of lumber for the
Sandwich Islands, to which she expected to sail in a few days. This was
early in January, but from some cause she did not leave the mouth of the
river until the last of February.[185]
In the vicinity of the mill there is some better timber than I have seen
in any other part of the country. The largest trees are about seven feet
in diameter, and nearly three hundred feet high; the usual size,
however, is from eighteen inches to three feet diameter, and about two
hundred feet high.
The country slopes up from the mill gradually, for several miles, and is
susceptible of easy cultivation; the soil is somewhat sandy, and has the
appearance of being good.
In leaving this place, we struck directly across the river, which is
here over two miles wide. Upon the north side, almost opposite to the
mill, is a claim held by Birney, of Astoria, who has made an effort at
improvement by cutting timber and raising the logs of a cabin. At this
place a rocky bluff commences and continues up the river for ten miles,
over which a great many beautiful waterfalls leap into the Columbia.
There is one sheet of water ten or twelve feet wide, which plunges over
a precipitous cliff two hundred feet into the river, {110} striking the
water about thirty feet from the base of the rock, where there is
sufficient depth to float vessels of large size.
At the distance of eight or ten miles above the mill, on the south side
of the river, there is an indentation in the mountain to the south, and
a bend in the river to the north, which forms a body of bottom land
several miles in width, and some ten or twelve miles long, the greater
part of which, except a strip varying from a quarter to half a mile in
width, next to the river, is flooded during high tides. This strip is
covered with white oak and cottonwood timber. The remainder of the
bottom is prairie, with occasional dry ridges running through it, and
the whole of it covered with grass. By throwing up levees, as is done
upon the Atlantic coast, most of these fine lands might be cultivated.
At the extreme southern point of the elbow, there comes in a stream, the
size of which was not ascertained, but from appearances it is of
sufficient size to propel a considerable amount of machinery. There are
several islands in the river opposite the lower point of this bottom,
and at the northern angle the Columbia is not more than three-fourths of
a mile wide. This is called Oak point, and holds out good inducements
for a settlement. There is an Indian village half a mile below the
point; and opposite, upon the northern side of the river, a good
millstream, the falls being near the river, and the mountain covered
with timber.[186] Immediately above the point, the river spreads out to
one and a half or two miles in width, and having several islands,
portions of which are covered with cottonwood, oak and ash timber, the
remainder being nearly all prairie. From Oak point up to Vancouver, the
scenery very much resembles that along the Hudson river through the
Catskill Mountains, but much more grand, as the Cascade range of
mountains, and many snowcapped peaks, are in view.
Some portions of the way the shore is high rugged cliffs of rocks, at
others indentations in the mountain leave bottoms, from a quarter to
three miles wide, which are mostly covered with timber. From the lower
mouth of the Willamette to Fort Vancouver, the shores are lined with
cottonwood timber, and upon the south side, as far up as the mouth of
Sandy, or Quicksand river, which comes in at the western base of the
Cascade range. But few claims have as yet been taken along the Columbia,
but the fishing and lumbering advantages which this part of the country
possesses over many others, holds out great inducements to settlers.
{111} From Fort Vancouver, for several miles down upon the north side,
the country is sufficiently level to make good farming land; and the
Hudson's Bay Company, or members of the company, have extensive farms,
with large herds of cattle. Fort Vancouver is one of the most beautiful
sites for a town upon the Columbia. It is about ninety miles from the
ocean, and upon the north side of the river. Large vessels can come up
this far. The banks of the river are here about twenty-five feet high.
Much of the bottom land about the fort is inclined to be gravelly, but
produces well.[187]
A party consisting of nine persons, in two row-boats, started from
Oregon city on the 24th of December, for Fort Vancouver, and arrived
there in the afternoon of the 25th. In our party was Colonel M'Clure,
formerly of Indiana, and who had been a member of the Oregon legislature
for two years.[188] As soon as we landed, he made his way to the fort,
which is about four hundred yards from the shore, with the view of
obtaining quarters for the party. He soon returned and conducted us to
our lodgings, which were in an old cooper's shop, or rather shed, near
the river.
Before starting we had prepared ourselves with provisions, and a few
cooking utensils. We set to work, and although the wind and rain made it
unpleasant, we soon had a comfortable meal in readiness, and we made
good use of the time until it was devoured. This was holyday with the
servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, and such _ranting_ and frolicking
has perhaps seldom been seen among the sons of men. Some were engaged in
gambling, some singing, some running horses, many promenading on the
river shore, and others on the large green prairie above the fort. H. B.
Majesty's ship of war Modesté was lying at anchor about fifty yards from
the shore.[189] The sailors also seemed to be enjoying the
holydays--many of them were on shore promenading, and casting _sheep's
eyes_ at the fair native damsels as they strolled from wigwam to hut,
and from hut to wigwam, intent upon seeking for themselves the greatest
amount of enjoyment. At night a party was given on board the ship, and
judging from the noise kept up until ten at night, they were a jolly set
of fellows. About this time a boat came ashore from the ship, with a few
land lubbers most gloriously drunk. One of them fell out of the boat,
and his comrades were barely able to pull him ashore. They passed our
shop, cursing their stars for this ill luck.
We wrapped ourselves in our blankets, and lay down upon {112} a pile of
staves. The rain was falling gently, and we were soon asleep. In the
after part of the night, several of us were aroused by a strange noise
among the staves. In the darkness we discovered some objects near us,
which we supposed to be hogs. We hissed and hallooed at them, to scare
them away. They commenced grunting, and waddled off, and all was again
quiet, and remained so until daylight; but when we arose in the morning,
we found ourselves minus one wagon sheet, which we had brought along for
a sail, our tin kettle, eighteen or twenty pounds of meat, a butcher
knife and scabbard, one fur cap, and several other articles, all of
which had been stolen by the Indians, who had so exactly imitated the
manoeuvres of a gang of hogs, as entirely to deceive us.
After breakfast we visited the fort, where we had an introduction to Dr.
McLaughlin, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company. He appears to be
much of a gentleman, and invited us to remain during the day; but as we
were upon an excursion down the river, we only remained to make a few
purchases, which being accomplished, we left the place.
As before stated, the fort stands upon the north bank of the Columbia,
six miles above the upper mouth of the Willamette, and about four
hundred yards from the shore. The principal buildings are included
within a stockade of logs, set up endwise close together, and about
twelve feet high; the lower ends of the timbers being sunk about four
feet in the ground. A notch is cut out of each log near the top and
bottom, into which a girth is fitted, and mortised into a large log at
each end, the whole being trenailed to this girth. I judge the area
contains about four acres. The first thing that strikes a person
forcibly upon entering one of the principal gates upon the south, is two
large cannons, planted one upon either side of the walk leading to the
Governor's house, immediately in front of the entrance. Many of the
buildings are large and commodious, and fitted up for an extensive
business, others are old fashioned looking concerns, and much
dilapidated. East of the fort and along the river bank there is a grassy
prairie, extending up for about three miles; it has been cultivated, but
an unusually high freshet in the river washed the fence away, and it has
since remained without cultivation. The soil is gravelly. North of this,
and extending down nearly even with the fort there is a handsome farm,
under good cultivation. North of the fort there is a beautiful orchard,
and an extensive garden, with several large blocks of buildings. Below
the {113} fort, and extending from the river for half a mile north, is
the village; the inhabitants of which are a mongrel race, consisting of
English, French, Canadians, Indians of different nations, and half
breeds, all in the employ of the company. The buildings are as various
in form, as are the characteristics of their inmates.
As yet there are but few Americans settled upon the north side of the
Columbia. There seems to have been an effort upon the part of the
Hudson's Bay Company, to impress the American people with an idea that
the entire country north of the river was unfit for cultivation. Not
only was this statement made to emigrants, but it was heralded forth to
the whole world; and as much of the country along the Columbia
corroborated this statement, no effort was made to disprove it.
Americans visiting that country being so well pleased with the
attentions paid them by the Hudson's Bay Company, took for granted their
statements, without examining for themselves, and have asserted it at
home, in accordance with British interests, and this I fear has had its
influence in the settlement of this question. For any one acquainted
with the character of the claims of the respective governments can but
admit, that greater privileges have been granted to Great Britain than
that government had any right to expect, or than the justice of our
claim would allow. Undoubtedly, the largest part of good agricultural
country is south of 49° north latitude, but there is a great deal of
excellent land north of that line. But little of it has been explored by
Americans, and we have taken only the statements of British subjects,
and upon their authority, the question between the two governments was
settled. But as we have proven by actual examination the incorrectness
of their statements in relation to the country between the Columbia and
the 49th degree north latitude, we may reasonably infer that they are
also incorrect in relation to the remainder of the country north. That
the general features of the country north of the Columbia River are
rough and mountainous, is admitted; and the same may be said in relation
to the country south of it; but that it is barren and sterile, and unfit
for cultivation, is denied.
The country upon the north side of the Columbia abounds with beautiful
valleys of rich soil, of prairie and timbered lands, well watered, and
adapted to the growth of all the grains raised in the northern, middle,
and western States, with superior advantages for grazing; never failing
resources for timber {114} and fish; and its proximity to one of the
best harbors in the world, renders it one of the most desirable and
important sections upon the Pacific coast. Frazer's river, with its
numerous tributaries, will afford a settlement which will compare well
with England itself.
Vancouver's Island, an excellent body of land, is equal to England in
point of size, fertility of soil, climate, and everything that would
constitute great national wealth. And besides these, there are
undoubtedly extensive valleys north of Frazer's river, which will
compare well with it; but we know nothing positively upon this
subject.[190]
The excellent harbors of Puget's sound, with its many advantages, and
the delightful country about it, are sufficient to induce capitalists to
look that way. This will probably be the principal port upon the coast.
Here will doubtless be our navy yard and shipping stores. It is thought
by many that an easy communication can be had between the Sound and the
middle region, by striking the Columbia above fort Wallawalla. If this
can be effected, it will lessen the distance materially from the
settlement upon the upper Columbia to a seaport town; and as the
navigation of that river, between the Cascade and Lewis's fork is
attended with great danger and difficulty, a route through to the sound
in this quarter would be very desirable.[191] That it can be
accomplished there is but little doubt. A stream emptying into the ocean
between the Columbia and the sound, called Shahales, affords a very good
harbor, which is called Gray's harbor.[192] Up this stream there is a
country suitable for an extensive settlement. Like most other valleys in
the country it is diversified with prairie and timbered land, and well
watered. No claims as yet have been taken in this valley.
There are two peaks upon the north side of the river, which remain
covered with snow the whole year round. One is called Mount St. Helen,
and stands north east of Fort Vancouver, and distant perhaps forty-five
or fifty miles.
The other is Mount Regnier, and stands some thirty-five miles from St.
Helen, in a northerly direction. This is said to be a volcano.
The distance from Fort Vancouver to Puget's sound, in a direct line,
cannot exceed ninety miles; but the high mountains between render the
route somewhat difficult, and the distance necessarily traveled would be
considerably increased.
About forty miles below fort Vancouver there comes in a {115} stream
called Cowlitz; twenty-five miles up this stream there is a French
settlement of about twenty families. Like those in the settlement upon
the east side of the Willamette river, they have served out their term
of years in the H. B. Company, have taken claims, and become an
industrious and thriving population.[193]
* * * * *
The people in Oregon have adopted a code of laws for their government,
until such time as the United States shall extend jurisdiction over
them.
The powers of the government are divided into three distinct
departments--the legislative, executive, and judicial.
The legislative department is to consist of not less than _thirteen_
members, nor more than _sixty-one_; the number not to be increased more
than _five_ in any one year. The members are elected annually; each
district electing a number proportionate to its population.
The executive power is vested in one person, who is elected by the
qualified voters of the territory, and holds his office for the term of
two years. The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, and such
inferior courts of law, equity, and arbitration, as may by law from time
to time be established. The supreme court consists of one judge, elected
by the legislature, and holds his office four years. They have adopted
the Iowa code of laws.[194]
Oregon is now divided into eight counties, viz: Lewis, Vancouver,
Clatsop, Yam-hill, Polk, Quality, Clackamis, and Shampoic.[195] Lewis
county includes that portion of country about Puget's sound;--Vancouver,
that along the northern side of the Columbia. These two counties
comprise all the territory north of the Columbia river.
Clatsop county includes that part of the country west of the centre of
the coast range of mountains, and from the river south, to Yam-hill
county, and of course includes Astoria, Clatsop Plains, &c.
Quality county includes the territory bounded on the north by the
Columbia, on the east by the Willamette, on the south by Yam-hill, and
on the west by Clatsop county.
Yam-hill county is bounded on the north by Quality and Clatsop, (the
line being about fifteen miles south of Oregon city,) on the east by the
Willamette river, on the south by Polk county, and on the west by the
Ocean.
{116} Polk county is bounded on the north by Yam-hill county, on the
east by the Willamette, on the south by the California line, and on the
west by the Pacific ocean.
Clackamis county is bounded on the north by the Columbia, on the east by
the Rocky mountains, on the south by Shampoic county, and on the west by
the Willamette, including Oregon city.
Shampoic county is bounded on the north by Clackamis county, on the east
by the Rocky mountains, on the south by California, and on the west by
the Willamette.
The country will, without doubt, be divided into at least three states.
One state will include all the country north of the Columbia river.
Nature has marked out the boundaries. Another state will include all
that country south of the Columbia river to the California line, and
west of the Cascade range of mountains. This country, however, is large
enough to form two states. The country east of the Cascade range,
extending to the Rocky mountains, and between the Columbia and
California, would make another state. This would include more territory
than all the remainder; but it would cover all that vast barren region
of country which can never be inhabited by the white man. The western
portion of this section is fertile. The line doubtless would be
established between, leaving the eastern portion as Oregon territory,
for future generations to dispose of.
The country now contains over six thousand white inhabitants; and the
emigration this year, over land, will be about seventeen hundred souls,
and that by water will probably equal it, which will increase the number
to near ten thousand. It may be a safe calculation to set down the
number for the first of January, 1847, at twelve thousand souls.