TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:
--Obvious print and punctuation errors were corrected.
--Bold text has been rendered with equal signs: =bold text=.
--Because of the fairy amount of tables, it is recommended the use
of a monospaced font.
MECHANICAL DEVICES
IN THE HOME
by
EDITH ALLEN, M. A.
_Assistant Editor, U. S. Department of Agriculture
Formerly
Specialist in Home Economics in Kansas State Agricultural
College, University of Texas, and Oklahoma
Agricultural and Mechanical College_
[Illustration: LOGO]
THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS
PEORIA, ILLINOIS
Copyright 1922
Edith Allen
12C22
_Printed in the United States of America_
PREFACE
In writing this book, my aim has been (1) to give information which
will guide householders in selecting and installing the best cooking
and heating devices, and in using them with the greatest economy of
fuel and safety against accidents; (2) to explain the construction of
lighting fixtures and how to determine the amount of light for health
needed in various places; (3) to explain the principles of cooling;
(4) to show how to make small repairs which save plumbers' bills; (5)
to guide in the choice and care of laundry appliances and cooking
utensils; (6) to familiarize women with the construction of electric,
acetylene and gas plants and engines, and (7) to furnish tables of
measure often needed for reference.
There is a lack of material of this type which is non-technical enough
for the use of home economics students and housewives. The material
which I have organized applies directly to the appliances with which
women work and is of a nature to fill their need in this field.
The book is designed as a text for senior-high school and
junior-college classes, as well as for the needs of home-demonstration
agents, housewives and other women.
EDITH ALLEN
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The author is particularly indebted in the preparation of this book to
John G. Thompson, professor of economics, University of Illinois; J. K.
T. Ekblaw, instructor of farm mechanics, University of Illinois, and
editor of _Farm Power_; Andrey A. Potter, professor of steam and gas
engineering, Kansas State Agricultural College; J. M. Bryant, professor
of electrical engineering, University of Texas; Harrison E. Howe,
National Council of Research; Miss Minna C. Denton, home economics
specialist, United States Department of Agriculture; Miss Marie Dallas,
Washington, D. C.; F. F. Good, instructor in applied physics, Teachers'
College, Columbia University, New York.
The following is a list of companies furnishing illustrations, data and
other information:
American Blower Company.
American Ironing Machine Co.
American Lava Co.
American Radiator Co.
American Stove Co.
Automatic Electric Washer Co.
Baltimore Gas Appliance Co.
Bates & Edmonds Motor Co.
Bissel's Carpet Sweeper Co.
Blake Mfg. Co.
C. Brown Mfg. Co.
B. Bryan Co.
Central Construction & Supply Co.
Central Oil & Gas Stove Co.
Chambers Fireless Cooker Stove Co.
Geo. M. Clark & Co.
Cleveland Metal Products Co.
Coleman Lamp Co.
Consolidated Gas, Electric Light
and Power Co.
Cyphers Incubator Co.
Dangler Stove Co.
Davis Acetylene Co.
The DeLaval Separator Co.
Delco Motor Co.
The Deming Co.
Detroit Heating & Lighting Co.
Detroit Stove Works.
Detroit Vapor Stove Co.
A. B. Dick Co.
W. S. Dickey Clay Mfg. Co.
The Durham Mfg. Co.
Eagle Generator Co.
Fuller, Warren & Co.
General Electric Co.
Hammond Typewriter Co.
Hart & Crouse Co.
Herrick Refrigerator Co.
Huenfield Co.
Humphrey Co.
Hurley Machine Co.
Kalamazoo Stove Co.
Kewanee Water Supply Co.
Klau-Van Pietersom-Dunlap.
Landers, Frary, Clark & Co.
Laundryette Mfg. Co.
Manning, Bowman & Co.
Mantle Lamp Co. of America.
H. G. McFadden & Co.
The Monitor Stove Co.
National Electric Supply Co.
Northwestern Steel & Iron Works.
Pacific Flush Tank Co.
Potomac Power & Lighting Co.
Rathbone, Sard & Co.
Reliable Stove Co.
Remnert Mfg. Co.
Rhinelander Refrigerator Co.
Ringen Stove Co.
Rochester Rotary Washer Co.
Rochester Stamping Co.
Sears, Roebuck & Co.
Sharples Separator Co.
Singer Sewing Machine Co.
L. C. Smith & Bros. Typewriting Company.
Standard Oil Co.
Edward L. Stock.
Thatcher Furnace Co.
The Torrington Co.
Toledo Cooker Co.
Trenton Potteries Co.
United Electric Co.
United Pump & Power Co.
United States Dept. of Agriculture.
United States Radiator Co.
Voss Bros. Mfg. Co.
Walker Bros. Co.
Welsbach Co.
Western Electric Co.
White Frost Refrigerator Co.
White Mop and Wringer Co.
Wilcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Co.
The Yale & Towne Mfg. Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I. COOKING STOVES
CHAPTER I. WOOD AND COAL STOVES 15
1. Air supply of fire. 2. The grate. 3. Drafts or dampers. 4.
Starting the fire. 5. Keeping a fire. 6. Heating the oven. 7.
Ashes. 8. Ash chutes.
CHAPTER II. GAS STOVES 23
9. Burners. 10. Simmerers. 11. Air mixer. 12. Regulating the
gas. 13. Lighting the stove. 14. Cleaning the stove. 15. Accidents
with gas stove. 16. Pilot light. 17. Pilot for top burners.
18. Gas-stove lighter. 19. Amount of gas used. 20. Cold-process
gasoline gas stoves. 21. Acetylene stoves.
CHAPTER III. OIL STOVES 31
22. Purpose of oil stoves. 23. Mechanical parts of kerosene stove.
24. The burner. 25. The chimney. 26. Lighting the stove. 27.
Management of the flame. 28. Adjustment and care of the stove.
29. When the stoves gives trouble. 30. Construction of gasoline
stoves. 31. To light the stove. 32. Filling the gasoline stove.
33. When a burner blazes and cannot be controlled. 34. Changing
fuel in vapor stoves. 35. Operation of vapor stoves.
CHAPTER IV. ELECTRIC STOVES 42
36. Heating unit of electric stove. 37. Wiring of stoves. 38.
Operation of electric stoves. 39. Care of electric stoves. 40.
Utensils for electric stoves. 41. Detachable cooking devices.
CHAPTER V. ALCOHOL, ACETYLENE, AND CANNED HEAT 47
42. Alcohol stoves. 43. Vapor stoves. 44. Wickless stoves. 45.
Canned heat. 46. Acetylene gas stoves.
CHAPTER VI. FIRELESS AND STEAM COOKERS 50
47. The fireless cooker. 48. The stones of fireless cookers. 49.
Heating the stones. 50. Care of the cooker. 51. Other devices
belonging to cookers. 52. Directions for using the cooker. 53.
Time of cooking food. 54. Gas cookers. 55. Steam cookers.
PART II. HEATING DEVICES
CHAPTER VII. WARM-AIR FURNACES 57
56. Principle upon which a furnace works. 57. The stove part.
58. The cold-air shaft. 59. Hot-air pipes. 60. Location of the
furnace. 61. Air. 62. Pipeless furnaces.
CHAPTER VIII. HOT-WATER SYSTEM OF HEATING 64
63. Equipment for hot-water heat. 64. Heating unit. 65. The
management of the fire. 66. The pipes. 67. Expansion tank.
68. Water. 69. Radiators.
CHAPTER IX. STEAM-HEATING SYSTEMS 69
70. Equipment for steam heat. 71. Steam gages. 72. Safety
valve.
CHAPTER X. FIREPLACES AND HEATING STOVES 74
73. Construction of fireplace. 74. Management of fireplace.
75. Operating heating stoves. 76. Care of the stove.
CHAPTER XI. GAS, ELECTRIC AND KEROSENE HEATERS 77
77. Kinds of gas heaters. 78. Bunsen burner and asbestos-back
heater. 79. Lighting gas stoves. 80. Care of gas stoves.
81. Illuminating flame and bright metal reflector heaters.
82. Gas radiator heaters. 83. Management of gas radiator.
84. Kerosene heaters. 85. Electric heaters. 86. Acetylene heaters.
PART III. LIGHTING DEVICES
CHAPTER XII. ELECTRIC LIGHTS 82
87. Kinds of electric lamps in use. 88. Electrical measurements.
89. Carbon lamps. 90. Mazda or tungsten lamps. 91. Selecting
lamps for a room. 92. Effect of color schemes upon illumination.
93. Distribution of light.
CHAPTER XIII. GAS LIGHT 88
94. Construction of mantles. 95. Care of mantles. 96. Fixtures
for burning gas. 97. Adjustment. 98. Care of lamps. 99. Lighting
a gas light. 100. Cold-process gasoline gas. 101. Acetylene
lamps. 102. Care of burners of acetylene lamps.
CHAPTER XIV. KEROSENE LAMPS 93
103. Construction of kerosene lamps. 104. Management of kerosene
lamps. 105. Lighting a kerosene lamp. 106. To extinguish
a lamp. 107. Care of lamps. 108. Kerosene mantle lamps.
CHAPTER XV. ALCOHOL AND GASOLINE LAMPS 96
109. Classification of lamps. 110. Gravity lamps. 111. Lighting
the gravity lamp. 112. Pressure lamps. 113. Gasoline lamps
with wicks. 114. Alcohol lamps with wicks. 115. Lighting alcohol
or gasoline lamps.
PART IV. COOLING DEVICES
CHAPTER XVI. REFRIGERATORS 100
116. Principles of refrigeration. 117. The construction of
refrigerators. 118. Lining refrigerators. 119. Insulation
of refrigerators. 120. Circulation in refrigerators.
121. Drip from melting ice. 122. Arrangement of food in the
ice box. 123. Filling and care of the ice box.
CHAPTER XVII. ICELESS REFRIGERATORS; WATER COOLERS 105
124. Comparative efficiency of iceless refrigerators. 125. Iceless
refrigerator. 126. Small cooler. 127. Covered pail. 128. Unglazed
earthenware. 129. Cooling with running water. 130. Refrigerating
plants. 131. Water coolers. 132. Care of water coolers.
CHAPTER XVIII. FANS AND VENTILATORS 110
133. Selecting a fan. 134. The construction of the fan in common
use. 135. Ventilator.
PART V. WATER SUPPLY AND SEWAGE DISPOSAL
CHAPTER XIX. PUMPS AND WATER FILTERS 112
136. Suction pumps. 137. Care of pumps. 138. Force pumps.
139. Compressed-air pumps. 140. Water filters.
CHAPTER XX. PRESSURE TANKS; PLUMBING FIXTURES 117
141. Pressure tanks. 142. Construction of the pressure tank.
143. Care of pressure tanks. 144. Hot-water kitchen tank.
145. Instantaneous water heaters. 146. Heaters for tanks. 147.
The elevated water tank. 148. Faucets. 149. Valves.
150. Overflows. 151. Traps for bath tubs and basins.
CHAPTER XXI. CESSPOOLS, SEPTIC TANKS AND CITY SEWER SYSTEMS 124
152. Releative value of cesspool and septic tank.
153. Construction of the septic tank. 154. The size of tank.
155. Disposal of waste in cities.
CHAPTER XXII. WATER CLOSETS 128
156. Construction of water closets. 157. Siphoning the trap.
158. The flushing tank. 159. Repairing the flushing tank.
PART VI. LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT
CHAPTER XXIII. WASHING MACHINES 132
160. Kinds of washing machines. 161. Suction machines. 162.
Cylinder washers. 163. Rotary washers. 164. Machine with
an oscillating washing device. 165. Oscillating washers. 166.
Locomotive washer. 167. Centrifugal washer. 168. Care of
washers.
CHAPTER XXIV. WRINGERS 138
169. Roller wringer. 170. Care of wringers. 171. Centrifugal
wringer or drier. 172. Care of the machine. 173. Combination
washer and wringer.
CHAPTER XXV. MANGLES AND IRONS 141
174. Construction of mangles. 175. Cold mangles. 176. Heated
mangles. 177. Care and use of mangles. 178. Flat, or sadirons.
179. Charcoal irons. 180. Electric irons. 181. Gas irons. 182.
Acetylene irons. 183. Alcohol irons. 184. Gasoline irons.
PART VII. HOUSE-CLEANING EQUIPMENT
CHAPTER XXVI. VACUUM CLEANERS AND CLEANING TOOLS 147
185. Principle upon which vacuum cleaners work. 186. Different
kinds of vacuum cleaners. 187. Nozzle of vacuum cleaner. 188.
Cautions in using vacuum cleaners. 189. Difference between hand
and power cleaners. 190. Carpet sweeper. 191. Mop wringers.
PART VIII. DEVICES FOR PREPARATION AND
CONSERVATION OF FOOD
CHAPTER XXVII. POTS, PANS AND OTHER DEVICES 155
192. Materials from which Utensils are made. 193. Aluminum
alloy. 194. Cast-iron utensils. 195. Earthenware. 196. Aluminum
and graniteware. 197. Mixing spoons.
CHAPTER XXVIII. PARERS, SEEDERS, GRINDERS, SLICERS, ETC. 159
198. Fruit and vegetable parers and knives. 199. Parers which
grate off skins. 200. Seeders and Stoners. 201. Cherry stoner.
202. Grinders. 203. Choppers or meat grinders. 204. Choppers.
205. Slicers. 206. Lard and fruit presses, sausage stuffers.
CHAPTER XXIX. MIXERS, BEATERS AND CHURNS; COFFEE POTS 165
207. Use of mixers, beaters and churns. 208. Care of these
devices. 209. Freezers. 210. Care of freezers. 211. Churns.
212. Drip coffee pots. 213. Percolator coffee pots.
CHAPTER XXX. DISH-WASHERS, CANNERS AND DRYERS 170
214. Dish dryer. 215. Cleaning silver. 216. Canners. 217.
Water seal. 218. Pressure canners. 219. Use of the canner.
220. Dryers. 221. Care of dryers.
CHAPTER XXXI. SEPARATORS AND EMULSIFIERS 178
222. Cream separators. 223. Different types of separators. 224.
Washing the machine. 225. Oiling. 226. Whey separator. 227.
Emulsifier.
PART IX. SUNDRY DEVICES
CHAPTER XXXII. DUMBWAITERS AND OTHER HOUSE FURNISHINGS 183
228. Dumbwaiters and window adjustments. 229. Check valves.
230. Door fastener. 231. Window shades. 232. Hinges. 233.
Sliding doors.
CHAPTER XXXIII. SEWING MACHINES 186
234. Different types of sewing machines. 235. Lock-stitch sewing
machine. 236. Feed plate. 237. Bobbins. 238. Shuttle bobbins.
239. Chain-stitch machine. 240. Cautions for all machines.
241. General instructions.
CHAPTER XXXIV. AUTOMOBILES 192
242. Starting the motor. 243. Driving the automobile. 244.
Care of car.
CHAPTER XXXV. LAWN MOWERS; INCUBATORS 195
245. Operation and care of lawn mowers. 246. Storing mowers.
247. Scissors and shears. 248. Principles upon which incubator
works. 249. The body of the incubator. 250. Incubators heated
by a lamp. 251. The wick. 252. Thermostat. 253. The thermometer.
254. Operation of incubator. 255. Egg tester.
CHAPTER XXXVI. TYPEWRITERS 202
256. Construction of typewriter. 257. Special features of
typewriter. 258. Interchangeable-type typewriters. 259. Care
of typewriters. 260. The hectograph. 261. Mimeograph and
multigraph.
PART X. MOTORS, FUELS AND GAS PLANTS
CHAPTER XXXVII. TREADLES AND WATER MOTORS 209
262. Definition of motor. 263. The treadle. 264. Water motors.
265. Selecting a water motor. 266. Two types of water
motors.
CHAPTER XXXVIII. ENGINES; MOTORS AND BATTERIES; FUELS 212
267. Gasoline engines. 268. Figuring speed of pulleys. 269.
Operating the engine. 270. Points in caring for engine. 271.
Generating electricity for homes. 272. Batteries. 273. Liquid
batteries. 274. A dry-cell battery. 275. Storage batteries. 276.
Some uses for electric motors. 277. Definition tables.
CHAPTER XXXIX. GAS PLANTS 220
278. Gasoline gas plants. 279. Acetylene-gas plant. 280.
Directions for operating acetylene plant. 281. Cautions to be
observed in using acetylene gas. 282. Compressed gases and oils.
PART XI. MEASURING DEVICES
CHAPTER XL. SCALES FOR WEIGHING 225
283. Equal-arm balances. 284. Unequal-arm balances. 285. Spring
scales.
CHAPTER XLI. DEVICES FOR MEASURING VOLUME 227
286. Graduate and measuring cup. 287. Tablespoons. 288. Teaspoons.
289. Standard measuring spoons. 290. Liquid and cooking
measures. 291. Dry measures. 292. Cubic, square and linear
measures.
CHAPTER XLII. GAS, WATER AND ELECTRIC METERS 230
293. Different kinds of meters. 294. Construction of a gas meter.
295. Reading the gas meter. 296. Water meters. 297. Prepayment
meters. 298. The electric meter.
CHAPTER XLIII. THERMOMETERS AND THERMOSTATS 233
299. Mercury thermometers. 300. Oven thermometer. 301. Maximum
thermometers. 302. Thermostats.
CHAPTER XLIV. HYDROMETERS AND BAROMETERS 237
303. Hydrometer. 304. Hygroscopes. 305. Barometers.
PART I
COOKING STOVES
CHAPTER I
WOOD AND COAL STOVES
A brief explanation of stoves is given in this chapter to help the
woman with a new stove or with an old one which she does not understand
so that she may manage it without wasting fuel and nervous energy.
[Illustration: FIG. 1. Cross-section of cooking stove.]
Cooking stoves (Fig. 1) were invented as a convenient means for holding
pots and pans in close proximity to the fire. They include a device for
regulating the supply of air to the burning fuel.
=1. Air Supply for Fire.= A proper amount of air must be supplied to
the fuel to produce a hot fire. A smoky or yellow flame indicates a
lack of sufficient air to produce complete combustion of the fuel.
Smoke is unburnt fuel. A smoky fire does not produce as much heat as
one which burns with a blue or almost colorless flame. It is usually
not the fault of the fuel, but the way it is being used that causes a
smoky fire.
=2. The Grate.= Cooking stoves may be constructed for burning either
wood or coal. In both cases, the operation is similar, except that more
air should be passing thru the stove while wood is being burnt. For
burning coal, the grate should be less open in order to prevent the
coal from falling thru. Some modern stoves are made with double grates.
These may be turned so that the more open part of them is used for
supporting the wood, and the less open part for coal.
[Illustration: FIG. 1-_a_. Grate.]
These grates are usually reversed by a stove shaker. (Fig. 1-_a_ shows
a detailed drawing of a grate.) The housekeeper must understand how
this is done in order to avoid reversing them when she shakes down the
ashes. Two difficulties arise in reversing the grate when the stove
is filled with fuel. The coal may be wasted by falling thru the part
intended for wood, or pieces of fuel may fall between the parts so that
they cannot be moved. When this happens, it is best to let the fire go
out, take out the fuel, adjust the grates as they should be and rebuild
the fire.
=3. Drafts or Dampers.= There are from three to six dampers on a stove
(Figs. 1 and 2), as follows:
1) The draft below the fire box, found on all stoves, is to let in air
to the burning fire.
2) The draft above the fire box, not found on all stoves, when slightly
opened, lets in air which completes the combustion of the gases arising
from the top of the fire. When opened too wide, it checks the burning
of the fire.
3) The oven damper, found on all cook stoves, is placed at the point
where the flame naturally enters the stove pipe. When this damper is
closed, the flame must go around the oven instead of directly up the
chimney.
To see the oven damper, take off the lid nearest the stove pipe and
watch the direction of the flame. The handle to the oven damper may
be at the side of the pipe on top of the stove or at the front of the
stove under the top near the reservoir. Closing this damper causes
the hot gases from the fire to go back over the top of the stove down
behind the oven, turn under the oven and come up the chimney. Good
stoves are constructed so that the hot gases come in contact with every
part of the oven. This makes a longer journey for the gases, but, if
the drafts in the front of the stove and chimney are properly adjusted,
the gases will make the circuit without forming soot.
[Illustration: FIG. 2. Drafts and dampers in stove-pipe.]
4) A damper in the stove pipe (Fig. 2) for letting air from the room
into the pipe serves to check the burning of the fire by taking the
place of the draft thru the stove.
5) A damper, or shutter, found in the pipe or chimney of most stoves,
when closed, checks the draft up the chimney, and, when open, lets it
pass freely.
6) The reservoir damper, found on some stoves having reservoirs, lets
the hot gases pass next to the reservoir when open and prevents this
when closed.
=4. Starting the Fire.= If the stove has a reversible grate, see that
it is adjusted to suit the fuel before building the fire; then adjust
the drafts. Open the draft below the fire box, the oven damper, and the
shutter in the chimney; close the draft above the fire box, and the
draft which lets air from the room into the pipe, so that the air may
pass up thru the fire box and directly up the chimney. Some chimneys
produce such strong drafts that the shutter in the chimney has to be
kept closed most of the time, even when starting the fire. After the
fuel has become ignited, the draft below the fire may be partly closed
so that it burns less rapidly. If the fire is to be used for heating
water or food on top of the stove, it is now ready for use. If it is
still burning too rapidly, the draft may be entirely closed, or the
shutter in the chimney partly closed. If at any time the stove smokes,
the shutter or drafts above the fire may be closed too much and should
be opened enough to let all the smoke pass. Adding too much fuel at one
time and not spreading it in a thin layer over the entire surface of
the fire may cause the stove to smoke.
=5. Keeping a Fire.= If, after a fire has been used, it is wanted for
use later, close the draft below the fire box, open the one above the
fire box, or, if there chances to be no draft here, tilt the lids on
the stove to let in the air; close the shutter in the chimney and open
the draft in the pipe that lets in air from the room. With the drafts
so adjusted, the fire should keep a long time, as it will burn very
slowly.
=6. Heating the Oven.= When baking is to be done, wait until the fire
is well started; then close the oven damper. The eveness of heat in the
oven depends upon the even distribution of the hot gases below and on
the sides of it. This is provided for in the manufacture of the stove
itself. The heat in the oven may be regulated by the intensity of the
heat from the fire as well as by the damper. Whenever a cooler oven
is wanted, the flame may be permitted to go directly up the chimney.
Since hot air is always seeking a higher level than cold air, opening
the oven door cools the oven, but it will not prevent food set on the
bottom of the oven from burning on the bottom. In a closed oven, the
greatest degree of heat is at the top, excepting sometimes the surface
of the bottom of the oven. Many stoves require the placing of a thin
grating on the bottom of the oven to prevent food from burning on the
bottom. If food does not brown sufficiently on the bottom, remove the
grating so that the dish comes in closer contact with the heating unit.
The insulation of the oven door helps to hold heat in the oven, but
the amount lost here is so small that many housekeepers prefer the
convenience of the glass door, which, in turn, saves heat by doing away
with the necessity of opening the oven door to watch the cooking food.
Some housewives adjust the dampers for heating the oven and then never
change them. They heat the kitchen in summer more than is necessary
and use more fuel than they need for cooking. It has been estimated
that where the careful manager of a stove uses one pound of fuel, the
careless manager uses three and a half pounds.
One experiment station estimated that the household coal range is used
on an average of six hours a day, and, if used carefully, seven pounds
of coal is consumed. Careless management, then, makes the waste of coal
quite an item in the course of a year, as it is not unusual for the
careless manager to use twenty-four pounds of coal per six-hour day.
There is always some soot formed, even in the best-managed stoves, and
the flame often carries ashes with it. These in time fill the narrow
space about the oven and cut off or check the passage of the hot gases
about the oven. When this happens and the oven damper is closed, the
stove will smoke and not bake well. No stove should be allowed to get
in this condition. The housewife can watch the accumulation of ashes
in the stove and remove them before they become one-fourth inch thick.
If this is not done, the oven will not heat well and some parts may be
considerably cooler than others.
=7. Ashes.= Ashes allowed to accumulate in the fire box will cause the
lining of the stove to burn out. Ashes will also interfere with the
heating of the rest of the stove. To lengthen the life of a stove, keep
the ash pan empty. If a full pan of ashes becomes hot, it will keep the
grate of the stove so hot that it will warp and burn out, and sometimes
cause the oven to warp.
If a housewife tries to build a fresh fire in a stove with a full
ash pan, she will have to wait for the ashes to become heated thru
before she can get satisfactory use of the oven. She will be unable to
regulate the temperature of the oven if it becomes too hot. It is a
great waste of fuel to heat a large pan full of ashes.
[Illustration: FIG. 3. Ash chute.]
=8. Ash Chutes.= In some modern houses, there are ash chutes which
carry the ashes directly from the kitchen stove to a receptacle in
the basement (Fig. 3). These have to be installed with care. If there
is a draft of air which cannot be regulated from the basement up thru
the fire box, the fire will burn too fast. There should be a damper to
regulate drafts here. An ash chute saves much dirt in the kitchen.