recruited strength and spirits, such articles being in the first place
selected for putting on board as were essentially requisite for her
reequipment; for it was my full determination, could we succeed in
completing this, not to wait even for rigging a topmast, or getting a
lower yard up, in the event of the ice coming in, but to tow her out
among the ice, and there put everything sufficiently to rights for
carrying her to some place of security. A few hands were also spared,
consisting chiefly of two or three convalescents, and some of the
officers, to thrum a sail for putting under the Fury's keel; for we were
very anxious to relieve the men at the pumps, which constantly required
the labour of eight to twelve hands to keep her free. By a long and hard
day's labour, the people not going to rest till two o'clock on the
morning of the 21st, we got about fifty tons' weight of coals and
provisions on board the Fury, which, in case of necessity, we considered
sufficient to give her stability. Having hauled the ships out a little
from the shore, and prepared the Hecla for casting by a spring at a
moment's notice, all the people except those at the pumps were sent to
rest, which, however, they had not enjoyed for two hours, when, at four
A.M. on the 21st, another heavy mass coming violently in contact with
the bergs and cables, threatened to sweep away every remaining security.
More hawsers were run out, however, and enabled us still to hold on;
and, after six hours of disturbed rest, all hands were again set to work
to get the Fury's anchors, cables, rudder, and spars on board, these
being absolutely necessary for her equipment, should we be able to get
her out. At two P.M. the crews were called on board to dinner, which
they had not finished when several not very large masses of ice drove
along the shore near us at a quick rate, and two or three successively
coming in violent contact either with the Hecla or the bergs to which
she was attached, convinced me that very little additional pressure
would tear everything away, and drive both ships on shore. I saw that
the moment had arrived when the Hecla could no longer be kept in her
present situation with the smallest chance of safety, and therefore
immediately got under sail, despatching Captain Hoppner with every
individual, except a few for working the ship, to continue getting the
things on board the Fury, while the Hecla stood off and on. Captain
Hoppner had scarcely been an hour on board the Fury, and was busily
engaged in getting the anchors and cables on board, when we observed
some large pieces of not very heavy ice closing in with the land near
her; and at twenty minutes past four P.M., being an hour and five
minutes after the Hecla had cast off, I was informed by signal that the
Fury was on shore. As the navigating of the Hecla, with only ten men on
board, required constant attention and care, I could not at this time,
with propriety, leave the ship to go on board the Fury. I therefore
directed Captain Hoppner by telegraph, "if he thought nothing could be
done at present, to return on board with all hands until the wind
changed;" for this alone, as far as I could see the state of the Fury,
seemed to offer the smallest chance of clearing the shore, so as to
enable us to proceed with our work, or to attempt hauling the ship off
the ground. About seven P.M. Captain Hoppner returned to the Hecla,
accompanied by all hands, except an officer with a party at the pumps,
reporting to me, that the Fury had been forced aground by the ice
pressing on the masses lying near her, and bringing home, if not
breaking, the seaward anchor, so that the ship was soon found to have
sewed from two to three feet fore and aft.
Finding, soon after Captain Hoppner's return, that the current swept the
Hecla a long way to the southward while hoisting up the boats, and that
more ice was drifting in towards the shore, I was under the painful
necessity of recalling the party at the pumps, rather than incur the
risk, now an inevitable one, of parting company with them altogether.
Accordingly, Mr. Bird, with the last of the people, came on board at
eight o'clock in the evening, having left eighteen inches water in the
well, and four pumps being requisite to keep her free. In three hours
after Mr. Bird's return, more than half a mile of closely packed ice
intervened between the Fury and the open water in which we were
beating, and before the morning this barrier had increased to four or
five miles in breadth.
We carried a press of canvass all night, with a fresh breeze from the
north, to enable us to keep abreast of the Fury, which, on account of
the strong southerly current, we could only do by beating at some
distance from the land. The breadth of the ice in-shore continued
increasing during the day, but we could see no end to the water in which
we were beating, either to the southward or eastward. It fell quite calm
in the evening, when the breadth of the ice in-shore had increased to
six or seven miles. We did not, during the day, perceive any current
setting to the southward, but in the course of the night we were drifted
four or five leagues to the southwestward.
A southerly breeze enabling us to regain our northing, we ran along the
margin of the ice, but were led so much to the eastward by it, that we
could approach the ship no nearer than before during the whole day. She
appeared to us at this distance to have a much greater heel than when
the people left her, which made us still more anxious to get near her.
The latitude at noon was 72° 34' 57", making our distance from the Fury
twelve miles, which, by the morning of the 25th, had increased to at
least five leagues, the ice continuing to "pack" between us and the
shore. The wind, however, now gradually drew round to the westward,
giving us hopes of a change, and we continued to ply about the margin of
the ice, in constant readiness for taking advantage of any opening that
might occur. It favoured us so much by streaming off in the course of
the day, that by seven P.M. we had nearly reached a channel of clear
water, which kept open for seven or eight miles from the land. Being
impatient to obtain a sight of the Fury, and the wind becoming light,
Captain Hoppner and myself left the Hecla in two boats, and reached the
ship at half past nine, or about three quarters of an hour before high
water, being the most favourable time of tide for arriving to examine
her condition.
We found her heeling so much outward, that her main channels were within
a foot of the water; and the large floe-piece, which was still alongside
of her, seemed alone to support her below water, and to prevent her
falling over still more considerably. The ship had been forced much
farther up the beach than before, and she had now in her bilge above
nine feet of water, which reached higher than the lower-deck beams. The
first hour's inspection of the Fury's condition too plainly assured me
that, exposed as she was, and forcibly pressed up upon an open and stony
beach, her holds full of water, and the damage of her hull to all
appearance and in all probability more considerable than before, without
any adequate means of hauling her off to seaward, or securing her from
the farther incursions of the ice, every endeavour of ours to get her
off, or _if_ got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would
be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of extreme risk to
our remaining ship.
Mr. Pulfer, the carpenter of the Fury, considered that it would occupy
five days to clear the ship of water; that if she were got off, all the
pumps would not be sufficient to keep her free, in consequence of the
additional damage she seemed to have sustained; and that, if even hove
down, twenty days' work, with the means we possessed, would be required
for making her sea-worthy. Captain Hoppner and the other officers were
therefore of opinion, that an absolute necessity existed for abandoning
the Fury. My own opinion being thus confirmed as to the utter
hopelessness of saving her, and feeling more strongly than ever the
responsibility which attached to me of preserving the Hecla unhurt, it
was with extreme pain and regret that I made the signal for the Fury's
officers and men to be sent for their clothes, most of which, had been
put on shore with the stores.
The whole of the Fury's stores were of necessity left either on board
her or on shore, every spare corner that we could find in the Hecla
being now absolutely required for the accommodation of our double
complement of officers and men, whose cleanliness and health could only
be maintained by keeping the decks as clear and well ventilated as our
limited space would permit. The spot where the Fury was left is in
latitude 72° 42' 30"; the longitude by chronometers is 91° 50' 05"; the
dip of the magnetic needle 88° 19' 22"; and the variation 129° 25'
westerly.
When the accident first happened to the Fury, I confidently expected to
be able to repair her damages in good time to take advantage of a large
remaining part of the navigable season in the prosecution of the voyage;
and while the clearing of the ship was going on with so much alacrity,
and the repairs seemed to be within the reach of our means and
resources, I still flattered myself with the same hope. Those
expectations were now at an end. With a twelvemonth's provisions for
both ship's companies, extending our resources only to the autumn of the
following year, it would have been folly to hope for final success,
considering the small progress we had already made, the uncertain nature
of this navigation, and the advanced period of the present season. I was
therefore reduced to the only remaining conclusion, that it was my duty,
under all the circumstances of the case, to return to England in
compliance with the plain tenour of my instructions. As soon as the
boats were hoisted up, therefore, and the anchor stowed, the ship's head
was put to the northeastward, with a light air off the land, in order to
gain an offing before the ice should again set in-shore.
CHAPTER VII.
Some Remarks upon the Loss of the Fury--And on the Natural History,
&c., of the Coast of North Somerset.--Arrive at Neill's
Harbour.--Death of John Page.--Leave Neill's Harbour.--Recross the
Ice in Baffin's Bay.--Heavy Gales.--Temperature of the
Sea.--Arrival in England.
The accident which had now befallen the Fury, and which, when its fatal
result was finally ascertained, at once put an end to every prospect of
success in the main object of this voyage, is not an event which will
excite surprise in the minds of those who are either personally
acquainted with the true nature of this precarious navigation, or have
had patience to follow me through the tedious and monotonous detail of
our operations during seven successive summers. To any persons thus
qualified to judge, it will be plain that an occurrence of this nature
was at all times rather to be expected than otherwise, and that the only
real cause for wonder has been our long exemption from such a
catastrophe.
The summer of 1825 was, beyond all doubt, the warmest and most
favourable we had experienced since that of 1818. Not more than two or
three days occurred, during the months of July and August, in which that
heavy fall of snow took place which so commonly converts the aspect of
nature in these regions, in a single hour, from the cheerfulness of
summer into the dreariness of winter. Indeed, we experienced very little
either of snow, rain, or fog: vegetation, wherever the soil allowed any
to spring up, was extremely luxuriant and forward; a great deal of the
old snow, which had laid on the ground during the last season, was
rapidly dissolving even early in August; and every appearance of nature
exhibited a striking contrast with the last summer, while it seemed
evidently to furnish an extraordinary compensation for its rigour and
inclemency.
We have scarcely ever visited a coast on which so little of animal life
occurs. For days together, only one or two seals, a single seahorse, and
now and then a flock of ducks, were seen. I have already mentioned,
however, as an exception to this scarcity of animals, the numberless
kittiwakes which were flying about the remarkable spout of water; and
we were one day visited, at the place where the Fury was left, by
hundreds of white whales, sporting about in the shoal water close to the
beach. No black whales were ever seen on this coast. Two reindeer were
observed by the gentlemen who extended their walks inland; but this was
the only summer in which we did not procure a single pound of venison.
Indeed, the whole of our supplies obtained in this way during the
voyage, including fish, flesh, and fowl, did not exceed twenty pounds
per man.
The weather continuing nearly calm during the 26th, and the ice keeping
at the distance of several miles from the land, gave us an opportunity
of clearing decks, and stowing the things belonging to the Fury's crew
more comfortably for their accommodation and convenience. I now felt
more sensibly than ever the necessity I have elsewhere pointed out, of
both ships employed on this kind of service being of the same size,
equipped in the same manner, and alike efficient in every respect. The
way in which we had been able to apply every article for assisting to
heave the Fury down, without the smallest doubt or selection as to size
or strength, proved an excellent practical example of the value of being
thus able, at a moment's warning, to double the means and resources of
either ship in case of necessity. In fact, by this arrangement, nothing
but a harbour to secure the ships was wanted to complete the whole
operation in as effectual a manner as in a dockyard; for not a shore, or
outrigger, or any other precaution was omitted, that is usually attended
to on such occasions, and all as good and effective as could anywhere
have been desired. The advantages were now scarcely conspicuous in the
accommodation of the officers and men, who in a short time became little
less comfortable than in their own ship; whereas, in a smaller vessel,
comfort, to say nothing of health, would have been quite out of the
question.
A breeze from the northward freshening up strong on the 27th, we
stretched over to the eastern shore of Prince Regent's Inlet, and this
with scarcely any obstruction from ice. We could, indeed, scarcely
believe this the same sea which, but a few weeks before, had been loaded
with one impenetrable body of closely-packed ice from shore to shore,
and as far as the eye could discern to the southward. Having a great
deal of heavy work to do in the restowage of the holds, which could not
well be accomplished at sea, and also a quantity of water to fill for
our increased complement, I determined to take advantage of our fetching
the entrance of Neill's Harbour to put in here, in order to prepare the
ship completely for crossing the Atlantic. I was desirous also of
ascertaining the depth of water in this place, which was wanting to
complete Lieutenant Sherer's survey of it. Finding the harbour an
extremely convenient one for our purpose, we worked the ship in, and at
four P.M. anchored in thirteen fathoms, but afterward shifted out to
eighteen, on a bottom of soft mud. Almost at the moment of our dropping
the anchor, John Page, seaman of the Fury, departed this life: he had
for several months been affected with a scrofulous disorder, and had
been gradually sinking for some time.
The funeral of the deceased being performed, we immediately commenced
landing the casks and filling water; but, notwithstanding the large
streams which, a short time before, had been running into the harbour,
we could hardly obtain enough for our purpose by sinking a cask with
holes in it. This work, together with the entire restowage of all the
holds, occupied the whole of the 29th and 30th, during which time
Lieutenant Sherer was employed in completing the survey of the harbour,
more especially the soundings, which the presence of the ice had before
prevented. These arrangements had just been completed, when the
northeasterly wind died away, and was succeeded, on the morning of the
31st, by a light air from the northwest. As soon as we had sent to
ascertain that the sea was clear of ice on the outside, and that the
breeze which blew in the harbour was the true one, we weighed and stood
out, and before noon had cleared the shoals at the entrance.
Finding the wind at northwest in Prince Regent's Inlet, we were barely
able to lie along the eastern coast. As the breeze freshened in the
course of the day, a great deal of loose ice, in extensive streams and
patches, came drifting down from the Leopold Islands, occasioning us
some trouble in picking our way to the northward. By carrying a press of
sail, however, we were enabled, towards night, to get into clearer
water, and by four A.M. on the 1st of September, having beat to windward
of a compact body of ice which had fixed itself on the lee shore about
Cape York, we soon came into a perfectly open sea in Barrow's Strait,
and were enabled to bear away to the eastward. We now considered
ourselves fortunate in having got out of harbour when we did, as the ice
would probably have filled up every inlet on that shore in a few hours
after we left it.
Being again favoured with a fair wind, we now stretched to the eastward,
still in an open sea; and our curiosity was particularly excited to see
the present situation of the ice in the middle of Baffin's Bay, and to
compare it with that in 1824. This comparison we were enabled to make
the more fairly, because the season at which we might expect to come to
it coincided, within three or four days, with that in which we left it
the preceding year. The temperature of the sea-water now increased to
38° soon after leaving the Sound, where it had generally been from 33°
to 35°, whereas at the same season last year it rose no higher than 32°
anywhere in the neighbourhood, and remained even so high as that only
for a very short time. This circumstance seemed to indicate the total
absence of ice from those parts of the sea which had last autumn been
wholly covered by it. Accordingly, on the 5th, being thirty miles beyond
the spot in which we had before contended with numerous difficulties
from ice, not a piece was to be seen, except one or two solitary bergs;
and it was not till the following day, in latitude 72° 45', and
longitude 64° 44', or about one hundred and twenty-seven miles to the
eastward of where we made our escape on the 9th of September, 1824, that
we fell in with a body of ice so loose and open as scarcely to oblige us
to alter our course for it. At three P.M. on the 7th, being in latitude
72° 30', and longitude 60° 05', and having, in the course of eighty
miles that we had run through it, only made a single tack, we came to
the margin of the ice, and got into an open sea on its eastern side. In
the whole course of this distance, the ice was so much spread that it
would not, if at all closely "packed," have occupied one third of the
same space. There were at this time thirty-nine bergs in sight, and some
of them certainly not less than two hundred feet in height.
On the 8th, being in latitude 71° 55', longitude 60° 30', and close to
the margin of the ice, we fell in with the Alfred, Ellison, and
Elizabeth, whalers, of Hull, all running to the northward, even at this
season, to look for whales.
As the whaling-ships were not homeward bound, having as yet had
indifferent success in the fishery, I did not consider it necessary to
send despatches by them. After an hour's communication with them, and
obtaining such information of a public nature as could not fail to be
highly interesting to us, we made sail to the southward; while we
observed them lying to for some time after, probably to consult
respecting the unwelcome information with which we had furnished them as
to the whales, not one of which, by some extraordinary chance, we had
seen since leaving Neill's Harbour. As this circumstance was entirely
new to us, it seems not unlikely that the whales are already beginning
to shift their ground, in consequence of the increased attacks which
have been made upon them of late years in that neighbourhood.
On the 10th we had an easterly wind, which, gradually freshening to a
gale, drew up the Strait from the southward, and blew strong for
twentyfour hours from that quarter. The wind moderated on the 11th, but
on the following day another gale came on, which for nine or ten hours
blew in most tremendous gusts from the same quarter, and raised a heavy
sea. We happily came near no ice during the night, or it would scarcely
have been possible to keep the ship clear of it. It abated after
daylight on the 13th, but continued to blow an ordinary gale for twelve
hours longer.
On the 17th, at noon, we had passed to the southward of the Arctic
Circle, and from this latitude to that of about 58°, we had favourable
winds and weather; but we remarked on this, as on several other
occasions during this season, that a northerly breeze, contrary to
ordinary observation, brought more moisture with it than any other. In
the course of this run, we also observed more driftwood than we had ever
done before, which I thought might possibly be owing to the very great
prevalence of easterly winds this season driving it farther from the
coast of Greenland than usual.
On, the morning of the 24th, notwithstanding the continuance of a
favourable breeze, we met, in the latitude of 58-1/2°, so heavy a swell
from the northeastward as to make the ship labour violently for
four-and-twenty hours. On the morning of the 25th we had again an
easterly wind, which in a few hours reduced us to the close-reefed
topsails and reefed courses. At eight P.M. it freshened to a gale, which
brought us under the main-topsail and storm-staysails, and at seven the
following morning it increased to a gale of such violence from N.E.b.N.
as does not very often occur at sea in these latitudes. The gusts were
at times so tremendous as to set the sea quite in a foam, and
threatened to tear the sails out of the bolt-ropes. The wind gradually
drew to the westward, with dry weather, after the gale began to abate,
and at six A.M. we were enabled to bear up and run to the eastward with
a strong gale at N.W.
The indications of the barometer previous to and during this gale
deserve to be noticed, because it is only about Cape Farewell that, in
coming from the northward down Davis's Strait, this instrument begins to
speak a language which has ever been intelligible to us _as a weather
glass_. On the 24th, notwithstanding the change of wind from north to
east, the mercury rose from 29.51 on that morning, to 29.72 at three
A.M. the following day, but fell to 26.39 by nine P.M. with the strong
but not violent breeze then blowing. After this it continued to descend
very gradually, and had reached 28.84, which was its minimum, at three
P.M. on the 26th, after which it continued to blow tremendously hard for
eleven or twelve hours, the mercury uniformly, though slowly, ascending
to 28.95 during that interval, and afterward to 29.73 as the weather
became moderate and fine in the course of the täähree following days.
After this gale the atmosphere seemed to be quite cleared, and we
enjoyed a week of such remarkably fine weather as seldom occurs at this
season of the year. We had then a succession of strong southerly winds,
but we were enabled to continue our progress to the eastward, so as to
make Mould Head, towards the northwest end of the Orkney Islands, at
daylight on the 10th of October.
After rounding the north end of the Orkneys on the 10th of October, we
were, on the 12th, met by a strong southerly wind when off Peterhead. I
therefore immediately landed (for the second time) at that place, and,
setting off without delay for London, arrived at the Admiralty on the
16th.
The Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th of October, where she was
detained for a few days for the purpose of Captain Hoppner, his
officers, and ship's company being put upon their trial (according to
the customary and indispensable rule in such cases) for the loss of the
Fury--when, it is scarcely necessary to add, they received an honourable
acquittal. The Hecla then proceeded to Woolwich, and was paid off on the
21st of November.
ACCOUNT
OF
THE ESQUIMAUX
OF
MELVILLE PENINSULA AND THE ADJOINING ISLANDS: MORE PARTICULARLY OF
WINTER ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK.
ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX.
The number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux assembled at
Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and nineteen, of whom
sixty-nine were men, seventy-seven women, and seventy-three children.
Two or three of the men, from their appearance and infirmities, as well
as from the age of their children, must have been near seventy; the rest
were from twenty to about fifty. The majority of the women were
comparatively young, or from twenty to five-and-thirty, and three or
four only seemed to have reached sixty. Of the children, about one third
were under four years old, and the rest from that age upward to sixteen
or seventeen. Out of one hundred and fifty-five individuals who passed
the winter at Igloolik, we knew of eighteen deaths and of only nine
births.
The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in general.
One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten inches, and the
shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a half. Of twenty
individuals of each sex measured at Igloolik, the range was:
Men.--From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4 ft. 11 in.
The average height, 5 ft. 5-1/3 in.
Women.--From 5 ft. 3-1/2 in. to 4 ft. 8-3/4 in.
The average height, 5 ft. 0-1/2 in.
The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really are, both
from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a habit, which they
early acquire, of stooping considerably forward in order to balance the
weight of the child they carry in their hood.
In their figure they are rather well formed than otherwise. Their knees
are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs are straight, and
the hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably small. The younger
individuals were all plump, but none of them corpulent; the women
inclined the most to this last extreme, and their flesh was, even in the
youngest individuals, quite loose and without firmness.
Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and black, nose
also small and sunk far in between the cheek bones, but not much
flattened. It is remarkable, that one man T=e-~a, his brother, his
wife, and two daughters, had good Roman noses, and one of the latter was
an extremely pretty young woman. Their teeth are short, thick, and
close, generally regular, and in the young persons almost always white.
The elderly women were still well furnished in this way, though their
teeth were usually a good deal worn down, probably by the habit of
chewing the sealskins for making boots.
In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and transparent, and
the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when divested of oil and
dirt, is scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette, so that
the blood is plainly perceptible when it mounts into the cheeks. In the
old folks, whose faces were much wrinkled, the skin appears of a much
more dingy hue, the dirt being less easily, and, therefore, less
frequently dislodged from them.
By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be
distinguished, they are by no means an ill-looking people; and there
were among them three or four grown-up persons of each sex, who, when
divested of their skin-dresses, their tattooing, and, above all, of
their dirt, might have been considered pleasing-looking, if not
handsome, people in any town in Europe. This remark applies more
generally to the children also; several of whom had complexions nearly
as fair as that of Europeans, and whose little bright black eyes gave a
fine expression to their countenances.
The hair, both of males and females, is black, glossy, and straight. The
men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to hang about their heads
in a loose and slovenly manner. The women pride themselves extremely on
the length and thickness of their hair; and it was not without
reluctance on their part, and the same on that of their husbands, that
they were induced to dispose of any of it. Some of the women's hair was
tolerably fine, but would not, in this respect, bear a comparison with,
that of an Englishwoman. In both sexes it is full of vermin, which they
are in the constant habit of picking out and eating; a man and his wife
will sit for an hour together performing for each other that friendly
office. The women have a comb, which, however, seems more intended for
ornament than use, as we seldom or never observed them comb their hair.
When a woman's husband is ill, she wears her hair loose, and cuts it off
as a sign of mourning if he dies; a custom agreeing with that of the
Greenlanders. The men wear the hair on the upper lip and chin from an
inch to an inch and a half in length, and some were distinguished by a
little tuft between the chin and lower lip.
In winter every individual, when in the open air, wears two jackets, of
which the outer one (_C=app~e t=egg~a_) has the hair outside,
and the inner one (_At-t=e=ega_) next the body. Immediately on
entering the hut the men take off their outer jacket, beat the snow from
it, and lay it by. The upper garment of the females, besides being cut
according to a regular and uniform pattern, and sewed with exceeding
neatness, which is the case with all the dresses of these people, has
also the flaps ornamented in a very becoming manner by a neat border of
deerskin, so arranged as to display alternate breadths of white and dark
fur. This is, moreover, usually beautified by a handsome fringe,
consisting of innumerable long narrow threads of leather hanging down
from it. This ornament is not uncommon also in the outer jackets of the
men. When seal-hunting, they fasten up the tails of their jackets with a
button behind.
Their breeches, of which in winter they also wear two pairs, and
similarly disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, and fasten with
a string drawn tight round the waist. Though these have little or no
waistband, and do not come very high, the depth of the jackets, which
considerably overlap them, serves very effectually to complete the
covering of the body.
Their legs and feet are so well clothed, that no degree of cold can well
affect them. When a man goes on a sealing excursion, he first puts on a
pair of deerskin boots (_All~ekt=eeg~a_) with the hair inside, and
reaching to the knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of
the same material; next a pair of dressed sealskin boots, perfectly
water-tight; and over all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying round the
instep. These last are made just like the moccasin of a North American
Indian, being neatly crimped at the toes, and having several serpentine
pieces of hide sewn across the sole to prevent wearing. The water-tight
boots and shoes are made of the skin of the small seal (_neitiek_),
except the soles, which consist of the skin of the large seal (_oguk~e_);
this last is also used for their fishing-lines. When the men are not
prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer boot of deerskin, with the
hair outside.
The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose round the
leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in front carried up,
by a long pointed flap, nearly to the waist, and there fastened to the
breeches. The upper boot, with the hair as usual outside, corresponds
with the other in shape, except that it is much more full, especially on
the outer side, where it bulges out so preposterously as to give the
women the most awkward, bow-legged appearance imaginable. This
superfluity of boot has probably originated in the custom, still common
among the native women of Labrador, of carrying their children in them.
We were told that these women sometimes put their children there to
sleep; but the custom must be rare among them, as we never saw it
practised. These boots, however, form their principal pockets, and
pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in jackets, considerable
taste is displayed in the selection of different parts of the deerskin,
alternate strips of dark and white being placed up and down the sides
and front by way of ornament. The women also wear a moccasin
(_Itteeg~eg~a_) over all in the winter time.
To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our beads,
especially small white ones, as well as any other article of that kind,
we might suppose them very fond of personal ornament. Yet of all that
they obtained from us in this way at Winter Island, scarcely anything
ever made its appearance again during our stay there, except a ring or
two on the finger, and some bracelets of beads round the wrist; the
latter of these was probably considered as a charm of some kind or
other. We found among them, at the time of our first intercourse, a
number of black and white beads, disposed alternately on a string of
sinew, and worn in this manner. They would also sometimes hang a small
bunch of these, or a button or two, in front of their jackets and hair;
and many of them, in the course of the second winter, covered the whole
front of their jackets with the beads they received from us.
Among their personal ornaments must be reckoned that mode of marking the
body called tattooing, which, of the customs not essential to the
comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the most extensively
practised throughout the world. Among these people it seems to be an
ornament of indispensable importance to the women, not one of them being
without it. The operation is performed about the age of ten, or
sometimes earlier, and has nothing to do with marriage, except that,
being considered in the light of a personal charm, it may serve to
recommend them as wives. The parts of the body thus marked are their
faces, arms, hands, thighs, and in some few women the breasts, but never
the feet, as in Greenland. The operation, which, by way of curiosity,
most of our gentlemen had practised on their arms, is very expeditiously
managed by passing a needle and thread, the latter covered with
lampblack and oil, under the epidermis, according to a pattern
previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches being thus taken
at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part while the thread is drawn
through, by which means the colouring matter is retained, and a
permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted to the skin. A woman expert at
this business will perform it very quickly and with great regularity,
but seldom without drawing blood in many places, and occasioning some
inflammation. Where so large a portion of the surface of the body is to
be covered, it must become a painful as well as tedious process,
especially as, for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone
as a substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be
passed under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is common
in other countries, and by which our seamen frequently mark their hands
and arms. Several of the men were marked on the back part of their
hands; and with them we understood it to be considered as a _souvenir_
of some distant deceased person who had performed it.
In their winter habitations, I have before mentioned that the only
materials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made use of for
the windows alone. The work is commenced by cutting from a drift of hard
and compact snow a number of oblong slabs, six or seven inches thick and
about two feet in length, and laying them edgeways on a level spot, also
covered with snow, in a circular form, and of a diameter from eight to
fifteen feet, proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to
contain. Upon this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same
kind, but with the pieces inclining a little inward, and made to fit
closely to the lower slabs and to each other by running a knife adroitly
along the under part and sides. The top of this tier is now prepared for
the reception of a third, by squaring it off smoothly with a knife, all
which is dexterously performed by one man standing within the circle and
receiving the blocks of snow from those employed in cutting them
without. When the wall has attained a height of four or five feet, it
leans so much inward as to appear as if about to tumble every moment;
but the workmen still fearlessly lay their blocks of snow upon it, until
it is too high any longer to furnish the materials to the builder in
this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close to the
ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which is near the
south side, and through this the snow is now passed. Thus they continue
till they have brought the sides nearly to meet in a perfect and
well-constructed dome, sometimes nine or ten feet high in the centre;
and this they take considerable care in finishing, by fitting the last
block or _keystone_ very nicely in the centre, dropping it into its
place from the outside, though it is still done by the man within. The
people outside are in the mean time occupied in throwing up snow with
the _p~oo=all~er=ay_ or snow shovel, and in stuffing in little
wedges of snow where holes have been accidentally left.
The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the proposed
doorway into the form of a Gothic arch, three feet high and two feet and
a half wide at the bottom, communicating with which they construct two
passages, each from ten to twelve feet long and from four to five feet
in height, the lowest being that next the hut. The roofs of these
passages are sometimes arched, but more generally made flat by slabs
laid on horizontally. In first digging the snow for building the hut,
they take it principally from the part where the passages are to be
made, which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower
than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare ground
appears.
The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a single
apartment only be required; but if, on account of relationship, or from
any other cause, several families are to reside under one roof, the
passages are made common to all, and the first apartment (in that case
made smaller) forms a kind of antechamber, from which you go through an
arched doorway five feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there
are three of these, which is generally the case, the whole building,
with its adjacent passages, forms a tolerably regular cross.
For the admission of light into the huts, a round hole is cut on one
side of the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate of ice, three
or four inches thick and two feet in diameter, let into it. The light is
soft and pleasant, like that transmitted through ground glass, and it is
quite sufficient for every purpose. When, after some time, these
edifices become surrounded by drift, it is only by the windows, as I
have before remarked, that they could be recognised as human
habitations. It may, perhaps, then be imagined how singular is their
external appearance at night, when they discover themselves only by a
circular disk of light transmitted through the windows from the lamps
within.
The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow, two and a half
feet high, all round the interior of each apartment, except on the side
next the door. This bank, which is neatly squared off, forms their beds
and fireplace, the former occupying the sides, and the latter the end
opposite the door. The passage left open up to the fireplace is between
three and four feet wide. The beds are arranged by first covering the
snow with a quantity of small stones, over which are laid their paddles,
tentpoles, and some blades of whalebone: above these they place a number
of little pieces of network, made of thin slips of whalebone, and lastly
a quantity of twigs of birch[008] and of the _andromeda tetragona_.
Their deerskins, which are very numerous, can now be spread without risk
of their touching the snow; and such a bed is capable of affording not
merely comfort, but luxurious repose, in spite of the rigour of the
climate. The skins thus used as blankets are made of a large size and
bordered, like some of the jackets, with a fringe of long, narrow slips
of leather, in which state a blanket is called _k=eipik_.
The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp, or shallow
vessel of _lapis ollaris_, its form being the lesser segment of a
circle. The wick, composed of dry moss rubbed between the hands till it
is quite inflammable, is disposed along the edge of the lamp on the
straight side, and a greater or smaller quantity lighted, according to
the heat required or the fuel that can be afforded. When the whole
length of this, which is sometimes above eighteen inches, is kindled, it
affords a most brilliant and beautiful light, without any perceptible
smoke or any offensive smell. The lamp is made to supply itself with
oil, by suspending a long, thin slice of whale, seal, or seahorse
blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to drip into
the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately over the lamp is
fixed a rude and rickety framework of wood, from which their pots are
suspended, and serving also to sustain a large hoop of bone, having a
net stretched tight within it. This contrivance, called _Inn~et~at_,
is intended for the reception of any wet things, and is usually loaded
with boots, shoes, and mittens.
The fireplace just described as situated at the upper end of the
apartment, has always two lamps facing different ways, one for each
family occupying the corresponding bedplace. There is frequently, also,
a smaller and less-pretending establishment on the same model--lamp,
pot, net, and all--in one of the corners next the door; for one
apartment sometimes contains three families, which are always closely
related; and no married woman, or even a widow without children, is
without her separate fireplace.
With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and dogs, a
thermometer placed on the net over the fire indicated a temperature of
38°; when removed two or three feet from this situation, it fell to 31°;
and, placed close to the wall, stood at 23°, the temperature of the open
air at the time being 25° below _zero_. A greater degree of warmth than
this produces extreme inconvenience by the dropping from the roofs. This
they endeavour to obviate by applying a little piece of snow to the
place from which a drop proceeds, and this adhering, is for a short time
an effectual remedy; but for several weeks in the spring, when the
weather is too warm for these edifices, and still too cold for tents,
they suffer much on this account.
The most important, perhaps, of the domestic utensils, next to the lamp
already described, are the _=o=otk~o~os~e~eks_, or stone
pots for cooking. These are hollowed out of solid _lapis ollaris_, of an
oblong form, wider at the top than at the bottom all made in similar
proportion; though of various sizes corresponding with the dimensions
of the lamp which burns under it. The pot is suspended by a line of
sinew at each end to the framework over the fire, and thus becomes so
black on every side that the original colour of the stone is in no part
discernible. Many of them were cracked quite across in several places,
and mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead, so
as, with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of dirt, to
render them quite watertight.
Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels of
whalebone, of various sizes, which, as well as their ivory knives made
out of a walrus's tusk, are precisely similar to those described on the
western coast of Baffin's Bay in 1820. They have also a number of
smaller vessels of skin sewed neatly together; and a large basket of the
same material, resembling a common sieve in shape, but with the bottom
close and tight, is to be seen in every apartment. Under every lamp
stands a sort of "save-all," consisting of a small skin basket for
catching the oil that falls over. Almost every family was in possession
of a wooden tray very much resembling those used to carry butcher's meat
in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which we understood them
to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a number of the bowls or
cups already once or twice alluded to as being made out of the thick
root of the horn of the musk-ox. Of the smaller part of the same horn
they also form a convenient drinking-cup, sometimes turning it up
artificially about one third from the point, so as to be almost parallel
to the other part, and cutting it full of small notches as a
convenience in grasping it. These or any other vessels for drinking they
call _Imm=o=ochiuk_.
Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a much more
serviceable kind, made of iron, and called _panna_. The form of this
knife is very peculiar, being seven inches long, two and a quarter
broad, quite straight and flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally
sharp at both edges; this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or
wood about a foot long, by two or three iron rivets, and has all the
appearance of a most destructive spearhead, but is nevertheless put to
no other purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are
scarcely ever without, especially on their sealing excursions. For
these, and several knives of European form, they are probably indebted
to an indirect communication with our factories in Hudson's Bay. The
same may be observed of the best of their women's knives (_ooloo_), on
one of which, of a larger size than usual, were the names of "Wild and
Sorby." When of their own manufacture, the only iron part was a little
narrow slip let into the bone and secured by rivets.
Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons, much like
ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their marrow spoons
(_patt=ekniuk_, from _p=att~ek_, marrow), made out of long,
narrow, hollowed pieces of bone, of which every housewife has a bunch of
half a dozen or more tied together, and generally attached to her
needle-case.
For the purpose of obtaining fire, the Esquimaux use two lumps of common
iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a little leathern case
containing moss well dried and rubbed between the hands. If this tinder
does not readily catch, a small quantity of the white floss of the seed
of the ground-willow is laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has
caught, it is gently blown till the fire has spread an inch around,
when, the pointed end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon
bursts into a flame--the whole process having occupied perhaps two or
three minutes.
In enumerating the articles of their food, we might, perhaps, give a
list of every animal inhabiting these regions, as they certainly will,
at times, eat any one of them. Their principal dependance, however, is
on the reindeer (_t=o=okto~o_); musk-ox (_=o=om~ingm~uk_),
in the parts where this animal is found; whale (_=agg~aw~ek_);
walrus (_=ei-~u-~ek_); the large and small seal (_=og~uke_ and
_n~eitiek_); and two sorts of salmon, the _=ew~ee-t=ar~oke_
(_salmo alpinus?_) and _ichl=u~ow~oke_. The latter is taken by
hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the former by spearing in the shoal
water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all these animals, they can only
procure in the winter the walrus and small seal upon this part of the
coast; and these at times, as we have seen, in scarcely sufficient
quantity for their subsistence.
They certainly, in general, prefer eating their meat cooked, and, while
they have fuel, they usually boil it; but this is a luxury, and not a
necessary to them. Oily as the nature of their principal food is, yet
they commonly take an equal proportion of lean to their fat, and, unless
very hungry, do not eat it otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in
any way as a part of their general diet; and even our butter, of which
they were fond, they would not eat without a due quantity of
bread.[009] They do not like salt meat as well as fresh, and never use
salt themselves; but ship's pork or even a red herring did not come
amiss to them. Of pea-soup they would eat as much as the sailors could
afford to give them; and that word was the only one, with the exception
of our names, which many of them ever learned in English. Among their
own luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called k=ay~o, made of
blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot.
Their only drink is water; and of this, when they can procure it, they
swallow an inconceivable quantity; so that one of the principal
occupations of the women during the winter is the thawing of snow in the
ootkooseeks for this purpose. They cut it into thin slices, and are
careful to have it clean, on which account they will bring it from a
distance of fifty yards from the huts. They have an extreme dislike to
drinking water much above the temperature of 32°. In eating their meals,
the mistress of the family, having previously cooked the meat, takes a
large lump out of the pot with her fingers, and hands it to her husband,
who, placing a part of it between his teeth, cuts it off with a large
knife in that position, and then passes the knife and meat together to
his next neighbour. In cutting off a mouthful of meat, the knife passes
so close to their lips, that nothing but constant habit could ensure
them from the danger of the most terrible gashes; and it would make an
English mother shudder to see the manner in which children five or six
years old are at all times freely trusted with a knife to be used in
this way.
The length of one of the best of seven canoes belonging to these
Esquimaux was twenty-five feet, including a narrow-pointed projection,
three feet long at each end, which turns a little upward from the
horizontal. The extreme breadth, which is just before the circular hole,
was twenty-one inches, and the depth ten inches and a half. The plane of
the upper surface of the canoe, except in the two extreme projections,
bends downward a little from the centre towards the head and stern,
giving it the appearance of what in ships is called "broken-backed." The
gunwales are of fir, in some instances of one piece, three or four
inches broad in the centre, and tapering gradually away towards the
ends. The timbers, as well as the fore-and-aft connecting pieces, are of
the same material, the former being an inch square, and sometimes so
close together as to require between forty and fifty of them in one
canoe: which, when thus "in frame," is one of the prettiest things of
the kind that can be imagined. The skin with which the canoe is covered
is exclusively that of the _neitiek_, prepared by scraping off the hair
and fat with an _ooloo_, and stretching it tight on a frame over the
fire; after which and a good deal of chewing, it is sown on by the women
with admirable neatness and strength. Their paddles have a blade at each
end, the whole length being nine feet and a half; the blades are covered
with a narrow plate of bone round the ends to secure them from
splitting; they are always made of fir, and generally of several pieces
scarfed and woolded together.
In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised four feet
from the ground, and in winter on a similar structure of snow; in one
case to allow them to dry freely, and in the other to prevent the
snowdrift from covering, and the dogs from eating them. The difficulty
of procuring a canoe may be concluded from the circumstance of there
being at Winter Island twenty men able to manage one, and only seven
canoes among them. Of these, indeed, only three or four were in good
repair; the rest being wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which
a good deal was occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots,
shoes, and mittens for our people. We found no _oomiak_, or woman's
boat, among them, and understood that they were not in the habit of
using them, which may in part be accounted for by their passing so much
of the summer in the interior; they knew very well, however, what they
were, and made some clumsy models of them for our people.
In the weapons used for killing their game there is considerable
variety, according to the animal of which they are in pursuit. The most
simple of these is the _=o=on~ak_, which they use only for killing
the small seal. It consists of a light staff of wood, four feet in
length, having at one end the point of a narwhal's horn, from ten to
eighteen inches long, firmly secured by rivets and wooldings; at the
other end is a smaller and less effective point of the same kind. To
prevent losing the ivory part in case of the wood breaking, a stout
thong runs along the whole length of the wood, each end passing through
a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured in several places to the
staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been described, there is
little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable degree of both in
an appendage called _si=atk~o_, consisting of a piece of bone three
inches long, and having a point of iron at one end, and at the other end
a small hole or socket to receive the point of the oonak. Through the
middle of this instrument is secured the _=allek_, or line of thong,
of which every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from four
to six fathoms long, hanging at his back.
When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little leathern case, in
which, when out of use, it is carefully enclosed, and attached by its
socket to the point of the spear; in this situation it is retained by
bringing the allek tight down and fastening it round the middle of the
staff by what seamen call a "slippery-hitch," which may instantly be
disengaged by pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear
has been thrown and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely
separated; and being slung by the middle, now performs very effectually
the important office of a barb, by turning at right angles to the
direction in which it has entered the orifice. This device is in its
principle superior even to our barb; for the instant any strain is put
upon the line, it acts like a toggle, opposing its length to a wound
only as wide as its own breadth.
The _=akl~eak_ or _akl=e=eg~a_, used for the large seal, has a
blown bladder attached to the staff, for the purpose of impeding the
animal in the water.
The third and largest weapon is that called _katteelik_, with which the
walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this is not longer, but much
stouter than that of the others, especially towards the middle, where
there is a small shoulder of ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb
to rest against, and thus to give additional force in throwing or
thrusting the spear. The ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into
a socket at the end of the staff, where it is secured by double thongs
in such a manner as steadily to retain its position when a strain is put
upon it in the direction of its length, but immediately disengaging
itself with a sort of spring when any lateral strain endangers its
breaking. The siatko is always used with this spear; and to the end of
the allek, when the animal pursued is in open water, they attach a whole
sealskin (_h~ow-w=ut-t~a_), inflated like a bladder, for the
purpose of tiring it out in its progress through the water.
They have a spear called _~ippoo_ for killing deer in the water. They
describe it as having a light staff and a small head of iron; but they
had none of these so fitted in the winter. The _n=ug~uee_, or dart
for birds, has, besides its two ivory prongs at the end of the staff,
three divergent ones in the middle of it, with several small double
barbs upon them turning inward. The spear for salmon or other fish,
called _k=ak~eew~ei_, consists of a wooden staff, with a spike of
bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each side of
the spike is a curved prong, much like that of a pitchfork, but made of
flexible horn, which gives them a spring, and having a barb on the inner
part of the point turning downward. Their fishhooks (_kakli=okio_)
consist only of a nail crooked and pointed at one end, the other being
let into a piece of ivory to which the line is attached. A piece of
deer's horn or curved bone only a foot long is used as a rod, and
completes this very rude part of their fishing-gear.
Of their mode of killing seals in the winter I have already spoken in
the course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we were enabled to make
ourselves acquainted with it. In their summer exploits on the water, the
killing of the whale is the most arduous undertaking which they have to
perform; and one cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity
which, with gear apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish
this business. Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the
course of a single summer, and who described the whole of it quite _con
amore_, mentioned the names of thirteen men who, each in his canoe, had
assisted on one of these occasions. When a fish is seen lying on the
water, they cautiously paddle up astern of him, till a single canoe,
preceding the rest, comes close to him on one quarter, so as to enable
the man to drive the _katteelik_ into the animal with all the force of
both arms. This having the _siatko_, a long _allek_, and the inflated
sealskin attached to it, the whale immediately dives, taking the whole
apparatus with him except the katteelik, which, being disengaged in the
manner before described, floats to the surface, and is picked up by its
owner. The animal reappearing after some time, all the canoes again
paddle towards him, some warning being given by the sealskin buoy
floating on the surface. Each man being furnished like the first, they
repeat the blows as often as they find opportunity, till perhaps, every
line has been thus employed. After pursuing him in this manner sometimes
for half a day, he is at length so wearied by the resistance of the
buoys, and exhausted by the loss of blood, as to be obliged to rise more
and more often to the surface, when, by frequent wounds with their
spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow their prize in triumph to
the shore.
In attacking the walrus in the water they use the same gear, but much
more caution than with the whale, always throwing the _katteelik_ from
some distance, lest the animal should attack the canoe and demolish it
with his tusks. The walrus is, in fact, the only animal with which they
use any caution of this kind. They like the flesh better than that of
the seal; but venison is preferred by them to either of these, and,
indeed, to any other kind of meat.
At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the animals
killed during the winter, except two or three of the walrus, which we
obtained with great difficulty. As the blood of the animals which they
kill is all used as food of the most luxurious kind, they are careful to
avoid losing any portion of it; for this purpose they carry with
them on their excursions a little instrument of ivory called
_t~oop=o=ot~a_, in form and size exactly resembling a "twenty-penny"
nail, with which they stop up the orifice made by the spear, by
thrusting it through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing
it with a twist.
One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of fir, four
feet eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and rounded on the
outer, being five inches in girth about the middle, where, however, it
is strengthened on the concave side, when strung, by a piece of bone ten
inches long, firmly secured by treenails of the same material. At each
end of the bow is a knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with
leather, with a deep notch for the reception of the string. The only
wood which they can procure, not possessing sufficient elasticity
combined with strength, they ingeniously remedy the defect by securing
to the back of the bow, and to the knobs at each end, a quantity of
small lines, each composed of a plat or "sinnet" of three sinews. The
number of lines thus reaching from end to end is generally about thirty;
but, besides these, several others are fastened with hitches round the
bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches from one end, and again united at
the same distance from the other, making the number of strings in the
middle of the bow sometimes amount to sixty. These being put on with the
bow bent somewhat the contrary way, produce a spring so strong as to
require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and giving
the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed by a woolding
round the middle, and a wedge or two, here and there, driven in to
tighten it. A bow in one piece is, however, very rare; they generally
consist of from two to five pieces of bone of unequal lengths, secured
together by rivets and treenails.
The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches, according to the
materials that can be commanded. About two thirds of the whole length
is of fir rounded, and the rest of bone let by a socket into the wood,
and having a head of thin iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into
a slit by two treenails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two
feathers, generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed on. The
bowstring consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines of three-sinew
sinnet, having a loose twist, and with a separate becket of the same
size for going over the knobs at the end of the bow.
We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a mark for a
prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on account of the frost,
and their hands very cold. The mark was two of their spears stuck
upright in the snow, their breadth being three inches and a half. At
twenty yards they struck this every time; at thirty, sent the arrows
always within an inch or two of it; and at forty or fifty yards, I
should think, would generally hit a fawn if the animal stood still.
These weapons are perhaps sufficient to inflict a mortal wound at
something more than that distance, for which, however, a strong arm
would be required. The animals which they kill with the bow and arrow
for their subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, and less
frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller animals.
The reindeer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in the
summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow necks of
land into the sea, and then spearing them from their canoes; and partly
by shooting them from behind heaps of stones raised for the purpose of
watching them, and imitating their peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the
various artifices which they employ for this purpose, one of the most
ingenious consists in two men walking directly _from_ the deer they wish
to kill, which almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a
large stone, one of the men hides behind it with his bow, while the
other continuing to walk on, soon leads the deer within range of his
companion's arrows. They are also very careful to keep to leeward of the
deer, and will scarcely go out after them at all when the weather is
calm. For several weeks in the course of the summer, some of these
people almost entirely give up their fishery on the coast, retiring to
the banks of lakes several miles in the interior, which they represent
as large and deep, and abounding with salmon, while the pasture near
them affords good feeding to numerous herds of deer.
The distance to which these people extend their inland migrations, and
the extent of coast of which they possess a personal knowledge, are
really very considerable. A great number of them, who were born at
Amitioke and Igloolik, had been to _Noowook_, or nearly as far south as
Chesterfield Inlet, which is about the _ne plus ultra_ of their united
knowledge in a southerly direction. Okotook and a few others of the
Winter Island tribe had extended their peregrinations a considerable
distance to the northward, over the large insular piece of land to which
we have applied the name of Cockburn Island; which they described as
high land, and the resort of numerous reindeer. By the information
afterward obtained when nearer the spot, we had reason to suppose this
land must reach beyond the seventy-second degree of latitude in a
northerly direction; so that these people possess a personal knowledge
of the Continent of America and its adjacent islands, from that parallel
to Chesterfield Inlet in 63-3/4°, being a distance of more than five
hundred miles reckoned in a direct line, besides the numerous turnings
and windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to travel.
Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the Wager
River; but no record had been preserved among them of Captain
Middleton's visit to that inlet about the middle of the last century.
Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in
considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious manners.
When, on one occasion, we related the circumstances of the inhuman
massacre described by Hearne, they crowded round us in the hut,
listening with mute and almost breathless attention; and the mothers
drew their children closer to them, as if to guard them from the
dreadful catastrophe.
The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very ingenious
contrivance of this kind they caught two wolves at Winter Island. It
consists of a small house built of ice, at one end of which a door, made
of the same plentiful material, is fitted to slide up and down in a
groove; to the upper part of this a line is attached, and, passing over
the roof, is let down into the trap at the inner end, and there held by
slipping an eye in the end of it over a peg of ice left for the purpose.
Over the peg, however, is previously placed a loose grummet, to which
the bait is fastened, and a false roof placed over all to hide the line.
The moment the animal drags at the bait, the grummet slips off the peg,
bringing with it the line that held up the door, and this, falling down,
closes the trap and secures him,
A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just large enough
to contain one person, who closes himself up in it. On the top is left a
small aperture, through which the man thrusts one of his hands to secure
the bird the moment he alights to take away a bait of meat laid beside
it. It is principally gulls that are taken thus; and the boys sometimes
amuse themselves in this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has
been mentioned in another place.
The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large and
heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of considerable
burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied in size, being from
six feet and a half to nine feet in length, and from eighteen inches to
two feet in breadth. Some of those at Igloolik were of larger
dimensions, one being eleven feet in length, and weighing two hundred
and sixty-eight pounds, and two or three others above two hundred
pounds. The runners are sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones
of a whale; but more commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed
and lashed together, the interstices being filled, to make all smooth
and firm, with moss stuffed in tight, and then cemented by throwing
water to freeze upon it. The lower part of the runner is shod with a
plate of harder bone, coated with fresh-water ice to make it run
smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both which purposes are thus
completely answered. This coating is performed with a mixture of snow
and fresh water about half an inch thick, rubbed over it till it is
quite smooth and hard upon the surface, and this is usually done a few
minutes before setting out on a journey. When the ice is only in part
worn off, it is renewed by taking some water into the mouth, and
spirting it over the former coating. We noticed a sledge which was
extremely curious, on account of one of the runners and a part of the
other being constructed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of
any kind. For this purpose, a number of sealskins being rolled up and
disposed into the requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind was
sewed tightly round them; this formed the upper half of the runner, the
lower part of which consisted entirely of moss moulded while wet into
the proper form, and being left to freeze, adhering firmly together and
to the skins. The usual shoeing of smooth ice beneath completed the
runner, which, for more than six months out of twelve, in this climate,
was nearly as hard as any wood; and for winter use, no way inferior to
those constructed of more durable materials. The cross-pieces which form
the bottom of the sledges are made of bone, wood, or anything they can
muster. Over these is generally laid a sealskin as a flooring, and in
the summer time a pair of deer's horns are attached to the sledge as a
back, which in the winter are removed, to enable them, when stopping, to
turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs running away with it. The
whole is secured by lashings of thong, giving it a degree of strength
combined with flexibility which perhaps no other mode of fastening could
effect.
The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled, to black
and white, or almost entirely black. Their hair in the winter is from
three to four inches long; but, besides this, nature furnishes them,
during this rigorous season, with a thick under coating of close, soft
wool, which they begin to cast in the spring. While thus provided, they
are able to withstand the most inclement weather without suffering from
the cold; and, at whatever temperature the atmosphere may be, they
require nothing but a shelter from the wind to make them comfortable,
and even this they do not always obtain. They are also wonderfully
enabled to endure the cold even on those parts of the body which are not
thus protected; for we have seen a young puppy sleeping, with its bare
paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at -30°, which, with one
of our dogs, would have produced immediate and intense pain, if not
subsequent mortification. They never bark, but have a long, melancholy
howl like that of the wolf, and this they will sometimes perform in
concert for a minute or two together. They are, besides, always snarling
and fighting among one another, by which several of them are generally
lame. When much caressed and well fed, they become quite familiar and
domestic: but this mode of treatment does not improve their qualities as
animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining whether these dogs
are wolves in a state of domestication, a question which we understood
to have been the subject of some speculation, Mr. Skeoch, at my request,
made a skeleton of each, when the number of all the vertebrae was found
to be the same in both,[010] and to correspond with the well-known
anatomy of the wolf.
When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness (_annoo_) of deer
or seal skin going round the neck by one bight, and another for each of
the fore legs, with a single thong leading over the back and attached to
the sledge as a trace. Though they appear at first sight to be huddled
together without regard to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable
attention paid to their arrangement, particularly in the selection of a
dog of peculiar spirit and sagacity, which is allowed, by a longer
trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to which, in turning to the
right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This choice is made
without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the dogs take precedence
according to their training or sagacity, the least effective being put
nearest the sledge. The leader is usually from eighteen to twenty feet
from the fore part of the sledge, and the hindermost dog about half that
distance, so that when ten or twelve are running together, several are
nearly abreast of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore part
of the sledge, with his feet overhanging the snow on one side, and
having in his hand a whip, of which the handle, made either of wood,
bone, or whalebone, is eighteen inches, and the lash more than as many
feet in length. The part of the thong next the handle is platted a
little way down to stiffen it and give it a spring, on which much of its
use depends; and that which composes the lash is chewed, by the women to
make it flexible in frosty weather. The men acquire from their youth
considerable expertness in the use of this whip, the lash of which is
left to trail along the ground by the side of the sledge, and with which
they can inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. Though the
dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and indeed
without it would soon have their own way, its immediate effect is always
detrimental to the draught of the sledge; for not only does the
individual that is struck draw back and slacken his trace, but generally
turns upon his next neighbour, and this, passing on to the next,
occasions a general divergency, accompanied by the usual yelping and
showing of teeth. The dogs then come together again by degrees, and the
draught of the sledge is accelerated; but even at the best of times, by
this rude mode of draught, the traces of one third of the dogs form an
angle of thirty or forty degrees on each side of the direction in which
the sledge is advancing. Another great inconvenience attending the
Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, besides that of not employing
their strength to the best advantage, is the constant entanglement of
the traces by the dogs repeatedly doubling under from side to side to
avoid the whip, so that, after running a few miles, the traces always
require to be taken off and cleared.
In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part, the driver
for this purpose using certain words, as the carters do with us, to make
the dogs turn more to the right or left. To these a good leader attends
with admirable precision, especially if his own name be repeated at the
same time, looking behind over his shoulder with great earnestness, as
if listening to the directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or
even where a single foot or sledge mark is occasionally discernible,
there is not the slightest trouble in guiding the dogs; for even in the
darkest night and in the heaviest snowdrift, there is little or no
danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping his nose near the
ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity. Where, however,
there is no beaten track, the best driver among them makes a terribly
circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux roads plainly show; these
generally occupying an extent of six miles, when with a horse and sledge
the journey would scarcely have amounted to five. On rough ground, as
among hummocks of ice, the sledge would be frequently overturned or
altogether stopped if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and, by
lifting or drawing it to one side, steer it clear of those accidents. At
all times, indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is pretty
constantly employed thus with his feet, which, together with his
never-ceasing vociferations and frequent use of the whip, renders the
driving of one of these vehicles by no means a pleasant or easy task.
When the driver wishes to stop the sledge, he calls out "Wo, woa,"
exactly as our carters do; but the attention paid to his command depends
altogether on his ability to enforce it. If the weight is small and the
journey homeward, the dogs are not to be thus delayed; the driver is
therefore obliged to dig his heels into the snow to obstruct their
progress; and, having thus succeeded in stopping them, he stands up with
one leg before the foremost crosspiece of the sledge, till, by means of
laying the whip gently over each dog's head, he has made them all lie
down. He then takes care not to quit his position; so that, should the
dogs set off, he is thrown upon the sledge, instead of being left behind
by them.
With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own people,
especially a woman, walking a little way ahead; and in this case they
are sometimes enticed to mend their pace by holding a mitten to the
mouth, and then making the motion of cutting it with a knife, and
throwing it on the snow, when the dogs, mistaking it for meat, hasten
forward to pick it up. The women also entice them from the huts in a
similar manner. The rate at which they travel depends, of course, on the
weight they have to draw and the road on which their journey is
performed. When the latter is level, and very hard and smooth,
constituting what in other parts of North America is called "good
sleighing," six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred
weight, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours
together, and will easily, under those circumstances, perform a journey
of fifty or sixty miles a day; on untrodden snow, five-and-twenty or
thirty miles would be a good day's journey. The same number of well-fed
dogs, with a weight of only five or six hundred pounds (that of the
sledge included), are almost unmanageable, and will, on a smooth road,
run any way they please at the rate of ten miles an hour. The work
performed by a greater number of dogs is, however, by no means in
proportion to this; owing to the imperfect mode already described of
employing the strength of these sturdy creatures, and to the more
frequent snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of numbers.
In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of sledges,
the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting excursions, by
being employed to carry burdens in a kind of saddle-bags laid across
their shoulders. A stout dog thus accoutred will accompany his master,
laden with a weight of about twenty or twenty-five pounds.
The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent; and this property is
turned to account by their masters in finding the seal-holes, which
these invaluable animals will discover entirely by the smell at a very
great distance. The track of a single deer upon the snow will in like
manner set them off at a full gallop when travelling, at least a quarter
of a mile before they arrive at it, when they are with difficulty made
to turn in any other direction; and the Esquimaux are accustomed to set
them after those animals to hunt them down when already wounded with an
arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very essential part; and two or
three of them, when led on by a man, will eagerly attack one of those
ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom uses any other weapon than his
spear and _panna_ in this encounter, for which the readiness of the dogs
may be implied from the circumstance of the word "nen-nook" (bear) being
often used to encourage them when running in a sledge. Indeed, the only
animal which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which the
greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving notice at
night of their approach to the huts by a loud and continued howl. There
is not one dog in twenty among them that will voluntarily, or, indeed,
without a great deal of beating, take the water, if they think it is out
of their depth, and the few that would do so were spoken of as
extraordinary exceptions.
The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling master
does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of them as their
own interest is supposed to require. The bitches with young are in the
winter allowed to occupy a part of their own beds, where they are
carefully attended and fed by the women, who will even supply the young
ones with meat and water from their mouths as they do their own
children, and not unfrequently also carry them in their hoods to take
care of them. It is probably on this account that the dogs are always so
much attached to the women, who can at any time catch them or entice
them from the huts when the men fail. Two females that were with young
on board the Fury in the month of February, brought forth six and seven
at a litter, and the former number were all females. Their feeding,
which, both in summer and winter, principally consists of k=a~ow, or
the skin and part of the blubber of the walrus, is during the latter
season very precarious, their masters having then but little to spare.
They therefore become extremely thin at that time of the year, and would
scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when regularly fed in the
summer. No wonder, therefore, that they will eat almost anything,
however tough or filthy, and that neither whipping nor shouting will
prevent their turning out of the road, even when going at full speed, to
pick up whatever they espy. When at the huts they are constantly
creeping in to pilfer what they can, and half the time of the people
sitting there is occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them
by most unmerciful blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water
to drink during the winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally as
a substitute; nor, indeed, if water be offered them, do they care about
it, unless it happens to be oily. They take great pleasure in rolling in
clean snow, especially after or during a journey, or when they have been
confined in a house during the night. Notwithstanding the rough
treatment which they receive from their masters, their attachment to
them is very great, and this they display after a short absence by
jumping up and licking their faces all over with extreme delight. The
Esquimaux, however, never caress them, and, indeed, scarcely ever take
any notice of them but when they offend, and they are not then sparing
in their blows. The dogs have all names, to which they attend with
readiness, whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise. Their names are
frequently the same as those of the people, and in some instances are
given after the relations of their masters, which seems to be considered
an act of kindness among them. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the
services performed by these valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art
cannot well have done less towards making them useful, and that the same
means in almost any other hands would be employed to greater advantage.
In the disposition of these people, there was, of course, among so many
individuals, considerable variety as to the minute points; but in the
general features of their character, which with them are not subject to
the changes produced by foreign intercourse, one description will nearly
apply to all.
The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have wished them
to possess, is honesty; and the impression derived from the early part
of our intercourse was certainly in this respect a favourable one. A
great many instances occurred, some of which have been related where
they appeared even scrupulous in returning articles that did not belong
to them; and this, too, when detection of a theft, or, at least, of the
offender, would have been next to impossible. As they grew more familiar
with us, and the temptations became stronger, they gradually relaxed in
their honesty, and petty thefts were from time to time committed by
several individuals, both male and female, among them.
The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the huts was
sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation in which the
crime was held by us. Until the affair was cleared up, they would affect
great readiness to show every article which they had got from the ships,
repeating the name of the donor with great warmth, as if offended at our
suspicions, yet with a half smile on their countenance at our supposed
credulity in believing them. There was, indeed, at all times, some,
trick, and cunning in this show of openness and candour; and they would
at times bring back some very trifling article that had been given them,
tendering it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much more
valuable. When a search was making, they would invent all sorts of lies
to screen themselves, not caring on whom besides the imputation fell;
and more than once they directed our people to the apartments of others
who were innocent of the event in question. If they really knew the
offender, they were generally ready enough to inform against him, and
this with an air of affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and, as
if the dishonesty of another constituted a virtue in themselves, they
would repeat this information frequently, perhaps for a month afterward,
setting up their neighbour's offence as a foil to their own pretended
honesty.
In appreciating the character of these people for honesty, however, we
must not fail to make allowance for the degree of temptation to which
they were daily exposed, amid the boundless stores of wealth which our
ships appeared to them to furnish. To draw a parallel case, we must
suppose an European of the lower class suffered to roam about amid
hoards of gold and silver; for nothing less valuable can be justly
compared with the wood and iron that everywhere presented themselves to
their view on board the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who, in
cases so similar, both resist the temptation to stealing, must be
considered pretty nearly on a par in the scale of honesty; and, judging
in this manner, the balance might possibly be found in favour of the
latter, when compared with any similar number of Europeans taken at
random from the lower class.
In what has been hitherto said, regard has been had only to their
dealings with _us_. In their transactions among themselves, there is no
doubt that, except in one or two privileged cases, such as that of
destitute widows, the strictest honesty prevails, and that, as regards
the good of their own community, they are generally honest people. We
have, in numberless instances, sent presents by one to another, and
invariably found that they had been faithfully delivered. The manner in
which their various implements are frequently left outside their huts is
a proof, indeed, that robbery is scarcely known among them.
In the barter of their various commodities, their dealings with us were
fair and upright, though latterly they were by no means backward nor
inexpert in driving a bargain. The absurd and childish exchanges which
they at first made with our people induced them subsequently to complain
that the Kabloonas had stolen their things, though the profit had
eventually been a hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints
were made, when the only fault in the purchaser had been excessive
liberality, and frequently, also, as a retort, by way of warding off the
imputation of some dishonesty of their own. A trick not uncommon with
the women was to endeavour to excite the commiseration, and to tax the
bounty of one person, by relating some cruel theft of this kind that
had, as they said, been practised upon them by another. One day, after I
had bought a knife of Togolat, she told Captain Lyon, in a most piteous
tone, that _Parree_ had stolen her last _ooloo_, that she did not know
what to do without one, and at length, coming to the point, begged him
to give her one. Presently after this, her husband coming in and asking
for something to eat, she handed him some meat, accompanied by a very
fine ooloo. Her son, being thus reminded of eating, made the same
request, upon which a second knife was produced, and immediately after a
third of the same kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having amused himself
in watching these proceedings, which so well confirmed the truth of the
proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now took the
knives, one by one, out of their hands, and, holding them up to Togolat,
asked her if Parree had not stolen her last ooloo. A hearty laugh all
round was the only notice taken by them of this direct detection of the
deceit.
The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and hourly
evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the snow all round
the ships; and not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of any
theft committed on their property. The licking of the articles received
from us was not so common with them as with Esquimaux in general, and
this practice was latterly almost entirely left off by them.
Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be reckoned an
extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself on various occasions
during our intercourse with them. If we had made any presents in one
hut, the inmates of the next would not fail to tell us of it,
accompanying their remarks with some satirical observations, too
unequivocally expressed to be mistaken, and generally by some stroke of
irony directed against the favoured person. If any individual with whom
we had been intimate happened to be implicated in a theft, the
circumstance became a subject of satisfaction too manifest to be
repressed, and we were told of it with expressions of the most
triumphant exultation on every occasion. It was, indeed, curious, though
ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple people, and even in
this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and scandal so
commonly practised in small societies among us were very frequently
displayed. This was especially the case with the women, of whom it was
not uncommon to see a group sitting in a hut for hours together, each
relating her _quota_ of information, now and then mimicking the persons
of whom they spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently
at the expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite
amusement.
I have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative, hinted at the
want of gratitude evinced by these people in their transactions with us.
Some exceptions, for they were only exceptions, and rare ones, to this
rule, have been mentioned as they occurred; but in general, however
considerable the benefit conferred, it was forgotten in a day; and this
forgetfulness was not unfrequently aggravated by their giving out that
their benefactor had been so shabby as to make them no present at all.
Even those individuals who, either from good behaviour or superior
intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and particularly such as had
slept on board the ships, and whether in health or sickness had received
the most friendly treatment from everybody, were in general just as
indifferent as the rest; and I do not believe that any one among them
would have gone half a mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most
trivial self-gratification to serve us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had
most loaded with presents, and who had never offered me a single free
gift in return, put into my hand, at the time of their first removal
from Winter Island, a dirty, crooked model of a spear, so shabbily
constructed that it had probably been already refused as an article of
barter by many of the ship's company. On my accepting this, from an
unwillingness to affront them, they were uneasy and dissatisfied till I
had given them something in return, though their hands were full of the
presents which I had just made them. Selfishness is, in fact, almost
without exception, their universal characteristic, and the mainspring of
all their actions, and that, too, of a kind the most direct and
unamiable that can well be imagined.
In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality to the
test, we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as to food and
accommodation, the best they had were always at our service; and their
attention, both in kind and degree, was everything that hospitality and
even good-breeding could dictate. The kindly offices of drying and
mending our clothes, cooking our provision, and thawing snow for our
drink, were performed by the women with an obliging cheerfulness which
we shall not easily forget, and which commanded its due share of our
admiration and esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening
not only with comfort, but with extreme gratification; for, with the
women working and singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines,
the children playing before the door, and the pot boiling over the blaze
of a cheerful lamp, one might well forget for the time that an Esquimaux
hut was the scene of this domestic comfort and tranquillity; and I can
safely affirm with Cartwright,[011] that, while thus lodged beneath
their roof, I know no people whom I would more confidently trust, as
respects either my person or my property, than the Esquimaux.
The estimation in which women are held among these people is, I think,
somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their general
employments they are by no means the drudges that the wives of the
Greenlander's are said to be; being occupied only in those cares which
may properly be called domestic, and, as such, are considered the
peculiar business of the women among the lower classes in civilized
society. The wife of one of these people, for instance, makes and
attends the fire, cooks the victuals, looks after the children, and is
sempstress to her whole family; while her husband is labouring abroad
for their subsistence. In this respect it is not even necessary to
except their task Of cutting up the small seals, which is, in truth, one
of the greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy; and, even if it were
esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to that of
the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the men's business is
at an end the moment the boat touches the beach. The most laborious of
their tasks occur, perhaps, in making their various journeys, when all
their goods and chattels are to be removed at once, and when each
individual must undoubtedly perform a full share of the general labour.
The women are, however, good walkers and not easily fatigued; for we
have several times known a young woman of two-and-twenty, with a child
in her hood, walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the same day,
for the sake of a little bread-dust and a tin canister. When stationary
in the winter, they have really almost a sinecure of it, sitting quietly
in their huts, and having little or no employment for the greater part
of the day. In short, there are few, if any people, in this state of
society among whom the women are so well off. They always sit upon the
beds with their legs doubled under them, and are uneasy in the posture
usual with us. The men sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with
their legs crossed before them.