George the Fourth anywhere in that town which His Majesty had, by his
example, conjured up from almost nothingness. It does not seem that
Thackeray was, after all, ill received at Brighton; whence thoughts arise
as to the ingratitude and fleeting memories of them that were either in
the first or second generation, advantaged by the royal preference for
this bleak stretch of shore beneath the bare South Downs, open to every
wind that blows. Surely gratitude is well described as a "lively sense of
favours to come," and they, no doubt, considered that the statue they had
erected in the Steyne gardens to him was a full discharge of all
obligations. Nor is the history of that effigy altogether creditable. It
was erected in 1828, as the result of a movement among Brighton tradesfolk
in 1820, to honour the memory of one who had incidentally made the
fortunes of so many among them; but although the subscription list
remained open for eight years and a half, it did not provide the L3.000
agreed upon to be paid to Chantrey, the sculptor of it.
The bronze statue presides to-day over a cab-rank, and the sea-salt
breezes have strongly oxidised the face to an arsenical green; insulting,
because greenness was not a distinguishing trait in the character of
George the Fourth.
[Sidenote: LAST OF THE REGENCY.]
The surrounding space is saturated with memories of the Regency; but the
roysterers are all gone and the recollection of them is dim. Prince and
King, the Barrymores--Hellgate, Newgate, and Cripplegate--brothers three;
Mrs. Fitzherbert, "the only woman whom George the Fourth ever really
loved," and whom he married; Sir John Lade, the reckless, the frolicsome,
historic in so far that he was the first who publicly wore trousers:
these, with others innumerable, are long since silent. No more are they
heard who with unseemly revelry affronted the midnight moon, or upset the
decrepit watchman in his box. Those days and nights are done, nor are they
likely to be revived while the Brighton policemen remain so big and
muscular.
With the death of George the Fourth the play was played out. William the
Fourth occasionally patronised Brighton, but decorum then obtained, and
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert not only disliked the memory of the last
of the Georges, but could not find at the Pavilion the privacy they
desired. The Queen therefore sold it to the then Commissioners of
Brighton in 1850, for the sum of L53,000, and never afterwards visited the
town.
XXXVI
The Pavilion and the adjoining Castle Square, where one of the old coach
booking-offices still survives as a railway receiving-office, are to most
people the ultimate expressions of antiquity at Brighton; but there
remains one landmark of what was "Brighthelmstone" in the ancient parish
church of St. Nicholas, standing upon the topmost eyrie of the town, and
overlooking from its crowded and now disused graveyard more than a square
mile of crowded roofs below. It is probably the place referred to by a
vivacious Frenchman who, a hundred and twenty years ago, summed up
"Brigtemstone" as "a miserable village, commanded by a cemetery and
surrounded by barren mountains."
From here you can, with some trouble, catch just a glimpse of the Watery
horizon through the grey haze that rises from countless chimney-pots, and
never a breeze but blows laden with the scent of soot and smoke. Yet, for
all the changed fortune that changeful Time has brought this hoary and
grimy place, it has not been deprived of interesting mementoes. You may,
with patience, discover the tombstone of Phoebe Hassall, a centenarian
of pith and valour, who, in her youthful days, in male attire, joined the
army of His Majesty King George the Second and warred with her regiment in
many lands; and all around are the resting-places of many celebrities,
who, denied a wider fame, have yet their place in local annals; but
prominent, in place and in fame, is the tomb of that Captain Tettersell
who (it must be owned, for a consideration) sailed away one October morn
of 1651 across the Channel, carrying with him the hope of the clouded
Royalists aboard his grimy craft.
[Illustration: ST. NICHOLAS, THE OLD PARISH CHURCH OF BRIGHTHELMSTONE.]
His altar-tomb stands without the southern doorway of the church, and
reads curiously to modern ears. That not one of all the many who have had
occasion to print it has transcribed the quaintness of that epitaph aright
seems a strange thing, but so it is:
P.M.S.
Captain NICHOLAS TETTERSELL, through whose Prudence ualour an Loyalty
Charles the second King of England & after he had escaped the sword of
his merciless rebells and his fforses received a fatall ouerthrowe at
Worcester Sept{r} 3{d} 1651, was ffaithfully preserued & conueyed into
ffrance. Departed this life the 26{th} day of Iuly 1674.
----> ----> ---->
Within this monument doth lye,
Approued Ffaith, hono{r} and Loyalty.
In this Cold Clay he hath now tane up his statio{n},
At once preserued y{e} Church, the Crowne and nation.
When Charles y{e} Greate was nothing but a breat{h}
This ualiant soule stept betweene him & death.
Usurpers threats nor tyrant rebells frowne
Could not afrright his duty to the Crowne;
Which glorious act of his Church & state,
Eight princes in one day did Gratulate
Professing all to him in debt to bee
As all the world are to his memory
Since Earth Could not Reward his worth have give{n},
Hee now receiues it from the King of heauen.
The escape of Charles the Second, after many perilous adventures, belongs
to the larger sphere of English history. Driven, after the disastrous
result of Worcester Fight, to wander, a fugitive, through the land, he
sought the coast from the extreme west of Dorsetshire, and only when he
reached Sussex did he find it possible to embark and sail across the
Channel to France. Hunted by relentless Roundheads, and sheltered on his
way only by a few faithful adherents, who in their loyalty risked
everything for him, he at length, with his small party, reached the
village of Brighthelmstone and lodged at the inn then called the "George."
[Illustration: THE AQUARIUM, BEFORE DESTRUCTION OF THE CHAIN PIER.]
That evening, after much negotiation, Colonel Gunter, the King's
companion, arranged with Nicholas Tettersell, master of a small trading
craft, to convey the King across to Fecamp, to sail in the early hours
of the following morning, October 14th. How they sailed, and the account
of their wanderings, are fully set forth in the "narrative" of Colonel
Gunter.
XXXVII
A new era for Brighton and the Brighton Road opened in November, 1896,
with the coming of the motor-car. Already the old period of the coaching
inns had waned, and that of gigantic and palatial hotels, much more
luxurious than anything ever imagined by the builders of the Pavilion, had
dawned; and then, as though to fitly emphasize the transition, the old
Chain Pier made a dramatic end.
The Chain Pier just missed belonging to the Georgian era, for it was not
begun until October, 1822, but, opened the following year, it had so long
been a feature of Brighton--and so peculiar a feature--that it had come,
with many, to typify the town, quite as much as the Pavilion itself. It
was, moreover, additionally remarkable as being the first pleasure-pier
built in England. It had long been failing and, condemned as dangerous,
would soon have been demolished; but the storm of December 4th, 1896,
spared that trouble. It was standing when day closed in, but when the next
morning dawned, its place was vacant.
Since then, those who have long known Brighton have never visited it
without a sense of loss; and the Palace Pier, opposite the Aquarium, does
not fill the void. It is a vulgarity for one thing, and for another
typifies the Hebraic week-end, when the sons and daughters of Judah
descend upon the town. Moreover, it is absolutely uncharacteristic, and
has its counterparts in many other places.
But Brighton itself is eternal. It suffers change, it grows continually;
but while the sea remains and the air is clean and the sun shines, it, and
the road to it, will be the most popular resorts in England.
INDEX.
Ainsworth, W. Harrison, 209-222
Albourne, 248
Ansty Cross, 93, 222
Aram, Eugene, 172
"Autopsy," Steam Carriage, 37, 63, 88
Banks, Sir Edward, 136
Banstead Downs, 159-161
Barrymore, The, 6, 192, 267
Belmont, 159
Benhilton, 156
Bicycles, 64-71, 74-79, 85-91
Bird, Lieutenant Edward, murderer, 169-172
Bolney, 200, 243, 246
"Boneshakers", 65
Brighton, 2, 12, 37, 255-272
Railway opened, 42
Road Records tabulated, 88-91
Routes to, 1-4
Brixton, 92, 97-100
Hill, 68, 93, 98, 105
Broad Green, 108, 129
Burgess Hill, 223
Burgh Heath, 159-161
Carriers, The, 11-14
Charles II., 270
Charlwood, 175
Chipstead, 135-138
Clayton, 93, 102, 231, 250
Hill, 25, 229, 231-232
Tunnel, 229-231
Coaches:--
Accommodation, 26
Age, 29, 30, 35
1852-1862, 42, 45, 47
1875-1880, 1882-3, 46
Alert, 33, 34
Coburg, 30
Comet, 33
1887-1899, 1900, 46, 49, 55
Coronet, 33
Criterion, 41, 64, 74, 88
Dart, 33
Defiance, 28, 46
1880, --
Duke of Beaufort, 31
"Flying Machine," coach, 18-22
Life-Preserver, 30
Magnet, 33
Mails, The, 23, 26, 28, 33, 34, 42
Old Times, 1866, 45
1888, 49-51
Quicksilver, 38
Red Rover, 41, 63, 88
Regent, 33
Sovereign, 33
Times, 33
Union, 33
Venture (A. G. Vanderbilt), 61
Victoria, 42
Vigilant, 1900-05, --
Wonder, 38
Coaching, 5, 11-14, 18-34, 37-49, 228
Coaching Notabilities:--
Angel, B. J., 45, 46
Armytage, Col., 45
Batchelor, Jas., 14
Beaufort, Duke of, 45, 46
Beckett, Capt. H. L., 46
Blyth, Capt., 46
Bradford, "Miller", 26
Clark, George, 45
Cotton, Sir St. Vincent, 29, 45
Fitzgerald, Mr., 45
Fownes, Edwin, 46
Freeman, Stewart, 46, 49
Gwynne, Sackville Frederick, 29
Harbour, Charles, 41, 64
Haworth, Capt., 45, 46
Jerningham, Hon. Fred., 29
Lawrie, Capt., 45
Londesborough, Earl of, 46
McCalmont, Hugh, 46
Meek, George, 46
Pole, E. S. Chandos, 45, 46
Pole-Gell, Mr., 46
Sandys, Hon. H., 49
Selby, Jas., 41, 49, 64, 73, 74, 75, 89
Stevenson, Henry, 29, 30
Stracey-Clitherow, Col., 46
Thynne, Lord H., 45
Tiffany, Mr., 46
Vanderbilt, Alfred Gwynne, 61
Wemyss, Randolph, 49
Wiltshire, Earl of, 46
Worcester, Marquis of, 29, 38
Coaching Records, 41, 64, 73, 74, 88, 89
Cold Blow, 159
Colliers' Water, 108
Colliers of Croydon, 108
Coulsdon, 131, 133
County Oak, 178
Covert, Family of, 238-244
Crawley, 93, 173, 182-195
Crawley Downs, 191-193
Croydon, 106-123
Cuckfield, 30, 202-209
Place, 209-222, 242
Cycling, 64-71, 74-79, 85-91
Cycling Notabilities:--
Edge, Selwyn Francis, 75, 76, 89
Holbein, M. A., 74
Mayall, John, Junior, 66-69, 70, 88
Shorland, F. W., 74, 89
Smith, C. A., 75, 76, 77, 89
Turner, Rowley B., 66, 67, 69
Cycling Records, 68-79, 85-91
Dale, 93, 248, 250
Dance, Sir Charles, 37, 39
Ditchling, 224
Driving Records, 63, 73, 194
Earlswood Common, 93, 146, 148
Fauntleroy, Henry, 196
Foxley Hatch, 93, 126
Frenches, 93, 145
Friar's Oak, 226
Gatton, 141-145, 164
Gatwick, 155
George IV., Prince Regent and King, 3, 6, 8-11, 24, 62, 88, 132,
191-194, 256-262, 266
Hancock, Walter, 34, 88
Hand Cross, 24, 93, 195, 198-201
Hill, 61
Hassall, Phoebe, 268
Hassocks, 226
Hayward's Heath, 205
Hickstead, 200, 245
"Hobby-horses", 65
Holmesdale, 172
Hooley, 136
Horley, 93, 149, 151-155, 173
Ifield, 175, 178-182, 188
"Infant," Steam Carriage, 37
Inns (mentioned at length):--
Black Swan, Pease Pottage, 195
Chequers, Horley, 152
Cock, Sutton, 159
Friar's Oak, 24, 226
George, Borough, 12-14
Crawley, 114, 187, 189
Golden Cross, Charing Cross, 20, 33
Green Cross, Ansty Cross, 222
Greyhound, Croydon, 114
Sutton, 159
Hatchett's (_see_ White Horse Cellar).
Old King's Head, Croydon, 115
Old Ship, Brighton, 12
Red Lion, Hand Cross, 200
Six Bells, Horley, 153
Surrey Oaks, Parkgate, 179
Tabard, Borough (_see_ Talbot).
Talbot, Borough, 12-14, 17
Talbot, Cuckfield, 206
Tangier, Banstead Downs, 160
White Horse Cellar, Piccadilly, 34
Jacob's Post, 224
Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 102-105, 257
Kennersley, 173
Kennington, 92-96
Kimberham Bridge, 173
Kingswood, 162
Lade, Sir John, 267
Lemon, Mark, 190
Little Hell, 159
Lowfield Heath, 173-175, 182
Merstham, 93, 134, 138-141
Milestones, 126-130, 159, 163
Mitcham, 155
Mole, River, 149, 152, 173-175, 196
Motor-cars, 50, 53, 54, 57-61, 63
Motor-car Day, Nov. 14th, 1896, 53-60
Motor-omnibus, Accident to, 60
Newdigate, 176
Newtimber, 247, 248
Norbury, 195
Old-time Travellers:--
Burton, Dr. John, 16
Cobbett, William, 161, 165, 168, 178
George IV., Prince Regent and King (_see_ "George the Fourth.")
Walpole, Horace, 16-18
Pangdean, 253
Patcham, 25, 93, 250, 251-255
Pavilion, The, 256-261, 268
Pease Pottage, 195, 197
Pedestrian Records, 64, 69, 72, 75, 79-91
Pilgrims' Way, The, 164
Povey Cross, 155, 173, 175
Preston, 93, 250, 255
Prize-fighting, 5, 191, 248-250
Pugilistic Notabilities:--
Cribb, Tom, 190
Fewterel, 132
Hickman, "The Gas-Light Man", 192
Jackson, "Gentleman", 132, 159
Martin, "Master of the Rolls", 5, 192
Randall, Jack, "the Nonpareil", 5, 192
Sayers, Tom, 248
Purley, 93, 121-125, 130, 176
Pyecombe, 200, 249, 250
Railway to Brighton opened, 42, 131
"Records", 61-91
(_See_ severally, Coaching, Cycling, Driving, Pedestrian, and Riding).
Tabulated, 88-91
Redhill, 93, 145
Reigate, 27, 93, 164-172
Hill, 162-164
Riding Records, 62, 88
Roman Roads, 102
"Rookwood", 209-222
Routes to Brighton, 1-4
Rowlandson, Thomas, 157, 185, 187, 203, 263
Ruskin, John, 106, 115
Russell of Killowen, Baron, 161
Russell (_or_ Russel), Dr. Richard, 262
St. John's Common, 103, 223
St. Leonard's Forest, 196, 199
Salfords, 93, 149, 173
Sayers Common, 248
Sidlow Bridge, 173
Slaugham, 238-246
Place, 240-242
Slough Green, 93
Smitham Bottom, 68, 129, 131-133, 136
Southwark, 12-14
Staplefield Common, 200
Steam Carriages, 34, 37, 50, 63
Stoat's Nest, 132
Stock Exchange Walk, 80-82
Stonepound, 93, 227, 231
Streatham, 100, 103-105, 107
Surrey Iron Railway, The, 122, 136
Sussex Roads, 15, 178, 237, 242, 237, 242
Sutton, 93, 156-159, 161
Tadworth Court, 161
Tettersell, Captain, 268, 270
Thackeray, W. M., 9, 10, 266
Thornton Heath, 103, 105-108
Thrale Place, 103-105
Thrales, The, 103-105
Thunderfield Castle, 149-152
Tilgate Forest Row, 173, 196
Tooke, John Horne, 124
Turnpike Gates, 92, 126, 145, 195, 226-228, 253
Velocipedes, 65-69
Walking Records (_see_ Pedestrian Records).
Westminster Bridge, 1, 3, 14, 129
Whiteman's Green, 202
Whitgift, Archbishop, 109-114
Wilderness Bottom, 161
Withdean, 253, 255
Wivelsfield, 224
Woodhatch, 93
Wray Park, 93
FOOTNOTES:
[1] He was a baker; hence the nickname.
[2] Henry Barry, Earl of Barrymore, in the peerage of Ireland.
[3] _Hiatus_ in the Journals, arranged by the editor for benefit of the
Young Person!
[4] Kirkpatrick Macmillan, in 1839-40, invented a dwarf, rear-driving
machine of the "safety" type, and was fined at Glasgow for "furiously
riding." He made and sold several, but they attained nothing more than
local and temporary success.
[5]
"There's nothing brings you round
Like the trumpet's martial sound."--W. S. GILBERT.
"The Pirates of Penzance."
[6] In 1829 there were three additional gates: one at Crawley, another at
Hand Cross, before you came to the "Red Lion," and one more at Slough
Green. Meanwhile the Horley gate on this route had disappeared. At a later
period another gate was added, at Merstham, just past the "Feathers." On
the other routes there were, of course, yet more gates--e.g., those of
Sutton, Reigate, Wray Park, Woodhatch, Dale, and many more.
Salfords gate was the last on the main Brighton Road. It remained until
midnight, October 31st. 1881, when the Reigate Turnpike Trust expired,
after an existence of 126 years. Not until then did this most famous
highway become free and open throughout its whole distance.
[7] Preface to "Praeterita," dated May 10th, 1885.
[8] The name derives from a farm so called, marked on a map of 1716
"Stotes Ness."
[9] "Sir Edward Banks, Knight, of Sheerness, Isle of Sheppey, and Adelphi
Terrace, Strand, Middlesex, whose remains are deposited in the family
vault in this churchyard. Blessed by Divine Providence with an honest
heart, a clear head, and an extraordinary degree of perseverance, he rose
superior to all difficulties, and was the founder of his own fortune; and
although of self-cultivated talent, he in early life became contractor for
public works, and was actively and successfully engaged during forty years
in the execution of some of the most useful, extensive, and splendid works
of his time; amongst which may be mentioned the Waterloo, Southwark,
London, and Staines Bridges over the Thames, the Naval Works at Sheerness
Dockyard, and the new channels for the rivers Ouse, Nene, and Witham in
Norfolk and Lincolnshire. He was eminently distinguished for the
simplicity of his manners and the benevolence of his heart; respected for
his inflexible integrity and his pure and unaffected piety; in all the
relations of his life he was candid, diligent, and humane; just in
purpose, firm in execution; his liberality and indulgence to his numerous
coadjutors were alone equalled by his generosity and charity displayed in
the disposal of his honourably-acquired wealth. He departed this life at
Tilgate, Sussex ... on the 5th day of July, 1835, in the sixty-sixth year
of his age."
[10] Matthew Buckle, Admiral of the Blue; born 1716, died 1784.
[11] He really drove the other way; from Carlton House to Brighton.
Transcriber's Notes:
Passages in italics are indicated by _italics_.
Letters printed in reverse are indicated by =X=.
Superscripted characters are indicated by {superscript}.
The original text contains a few letters with diacritical marks that are
not represented in this text version.
The original text includes Greek characters. For this text version these
letters have been replaced with transliterations.