The Presbyterians live in great charity with them, and with one

another; their minister as a true pastor of the gospel, inculcates

to them the doctrines it contains, the rewards it promises, the

punishments it holds out to those who shall commit injustice.

Nothing can be more disencumbered likewise from useless ceremonies

and trifling forms than their mode of worship; it might with great

propriety have been called a truly primitive one, had that of the

Quakers never appeared. As fellow Christians, obeying the same

legislator, they love and mutually assist each other in all their

wants; as fellow labourers they unite with cordiality and without

the least rancour in all their temporal schemes: no other emulation

appears among them but in their sea excursions, in the art of

fitting out their vessels; in that of sailing, in harpooning the

whale, and in bringing home the greatest harvest. As fellow subjects

they cheerfully obey the same laws, and pay the same duties: but let

me not forget another peculiar characteristic of this community:

there is not a slave I believe on the whole island, at least among

the Friends; whilst slavery prevails all around them, this society

alone, lamenting that shocking insult offered to humanity, have

given the world a singular example of moderation, disinterestedness,

and Christian charity, in emancipating their negroes. I shall

explain to you farther, the singular virtue and merit to which it is

so justly entitled by having set before the rest of their fellow-

subjects, so pleasing, so edifying a reformation. Happy the people

who are subject to so mild a government; happy the government which

has to rule over such harmless, and such industrious subjects!

While we are clearing forests, making the face of nature smile,

draining marshes, cultivating wheat, and converting it into flour;

they yearly skim from the surface of the sea riches equally

necessary. Thus, had I leisure and abilities to lead you through

this continent, I could show you an astonishing prospect very little

known in Europe; one diffusive scene of happiness reaching from the

sea-shores to the last settlements on the borders of the wilderness:

an happiness, interrupted only by the folly of individuals, by our

spirit of litigiousness, and by those unforeseen calamities, from

which no human society can possibly be exempted. May the citizens of

Nantucket dwell long here in uninterrupted peace, undisturbed either

by the waves of the surrounding element, or the political commotions

which sometimes agitate our continent.

LETTER VIII

PECULIAR CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET

The manners of the Friends are entirely founded on that simplicity

which is their boast, and their most distinguished characteristic;

and those manners have acquired the authority of laws. Here they are

strongly attached to plainness of dress, as well as to that of

language; insomuch that though some part of it may be ungrammatical,

yet should any person who was born and brought up here, attempt to

speak more correctly, he would be looked upon as a fop or an

innovator. On the other hand, should a stranger come here and adopt

their idiom in all its purity (as they deem it) this accomplishment

would immediately procure him the most cordial reception; and they

would cherish him like an ancient member of their society. So many

impositions have they suffered on this account, that they begin now

indeed to grow more cautious. They are so tenacious of their ancient

habits of industry and frugality, that if any of them were to be

seen with a long coat made of English cloth, on any other than the

first-day (Sunday), he would be greatly ridiculed and censured; he

would be looked upon as a careless spendthrift, whom it would be

unsafe to trust, and in vain to relieve. A few years ago two single-

horse chairs were imported from Boston, to the great offence of

these prudent citizens; nothing appeared to them more culpable than

the use of such gaudy painted vehicles, in contempt of the more

useful and more simple single-horse carts of their fathers. This

piece of extravagant and unknown luxury almost caused a schism, and

set every tongue a-going; some predicted the approaching ruin of

those families that had imported them; others feared the dangers of

example; never since the foundation of the town had there happened

anything which so much alarmed this primitive community. One of the

possessors of these profane chairs, filled with repentance, wisely

sent it back to the continent; the other, more obstinate and

perverse, in defiance to all remonstrances, persisted in the use of

his chair until by degrees they became more reconciled to it; though

I observed that the wealthiest and the most respectable people still

go to meeting or to their farms in a single-horse cart with a decent

awning fixed over it: indeed, if you consider their sandy soil, and

the badness of their roads, these appear to be the best contrived

vehicles for this island.

Idleness is the most heinous sin that can be committed in Nantucket:

an idle man would soon be pointed out as an object of compassion:

for idleness is considered as another word for want and hunger. This

principle is so thoroughly well understood, and is become so

universal, so prevailing a prejudice, that literally speaking, they

are never idle. Even if they go to the market-place, which is (if I

may be allowed the expression) the coffee-house of the town, either

to transact business, or to converse with their friends; they always

have a piece of cedar in their hands, and while they are talking,

they will, as it were instinctively, employ themselves in converting

it into something useful, either in making bungs or spoyls for their

oil casks, or other useful articles. I must confess, that I have

never seen more ingenuity in the use of the knife; thus the most

idle moments of their lives become usefully employed. In the many

hours of leisure which their long cruises afford them, they cut and

carve a variety of boxes and pretty toys, in wood, adapted to

different uses; which they bring home as testimonies of remembrance

to their wives or sweethearts. They have showed me a variety of

little bowls and other implements, executed cooper-wise, with the

greatest neatness and elegance. You will be pleased to remember they

are all brought up to the trade of coopers, be their future

intentions or fortunes what they may; therefore almost every man in

this island has always two knives in his pocket, one much larger

than the other; and though they hold everything that is called

fashion in the utmost contempt, yet they are as difficult to please,

and as extravagant in the choice and price of their knives, as any

young buck in Boston would be about his hat, buckles, or coat. As

soon as a knife is injured, or superseded by a more convenient one,

it is carefully laid up in some corner of their desk. I once saw

upwards of fifty thus preserved at Mr.----'s, one of the worthiest

men on this island; and among the whole, there was not one that

perfectly resembled another. As the sea excursions are often very

long, their wives in their absence are necessarily obliged to

transact business, to settle accounts, and in short, to rule and

provide for their families. These circumstances being often

repeated, give women the abilities as well as a taste for that kind

of superintendency, to which, by their prudence and good management,

they seem to be in general very equal. This employment ripens their

judgment, and justly entitles them to a rank superior to that of

other wives; and this is the principal reason why those of Nantucket

as well as those of Montreal [Footnote: Most of the merchants and

young men of Montreal spend the greatest part of their time in

trading with the Indians, at an amazing distance from Canada; and it

often happens that they are three years together absent from home.]

are so fond of society, so affable, and so conversant with the

affairs of the world. The men at their return, weary with the

fatigues of the sea, full of confidence and love, cheerfully give

their consent to every transaction that has happened during their

absence, and all is joy and peace. "Wife, thee hast done well," is

the general approbation they receive, for their application and

industry. What would the men do without the agency of these faithful

mates? The absence of so many of them at particular seasons, leaves

the town quite desolate; and this mournful situation disposes the

women to go to each other's house much oftener than when their

husbands are at home: hence the custom of incessant visiting has

infected every one, and even those whose husbands do not go abroad.

The house is always cleaned before they set out, and with peculiar

alacrity they pursue their intended visit, which consists of a

social chat, a dish of tea, and an hearty supper. When the good man

of the house returns from his labour, he peaceably goes after his

wife and brings her home; meanwhile the young fellows, equally

vigilant, easily find out which is the most convenient house, and

there they assemble with the girls of the neighbourhood. Instead of

cards, musical instruments, or songs, they relate stories of their

whaling voyages, their various sea adventures, and talk of the

different coasts and people they have visited. "The island of

Catharine in the Brazil," says one, "is a very droll island, it is

inhabited by none but men; women are not permitted to come in sight

of it; not a woman is there on the whole island. Who among us is not

glad it is not so here? The Nantucket girls and boys beat the

world." At this innocent sally the titter goes round, they whisper

to one another their spontaneous reflections: puddings, pies, and

custards never fail to be produced on such occasions; for I believe

there never were any people in their circumstances, who live so

well, even to superabundance. As inebriation is unknown, and music,

singing, and dancing, are held in equal detestation, they never

could fill all the vacant hours of their lives without the repast of

the table. Thus these young people sit and talk, and divert

themselves as well as they can; if any one has lately returned from

a cruise, he is generally the speaker of the night; they often all

laugh and talk together, but they are happy, and would not exchange

their pleasures for those of the most brilliant assemblies in

Europe. This lasts until the father and mother return; when all

retire to their respective homes, the men re-conducting the partners

of their affections.

Thus they spend many of the youthful evenings of their lives; no

wonder therefore, that they marry so early. But no sooner have they

undergone this ceremony than they cease to appear so cheerful and

gay; the new rank they hold in the society impresses them with more

serious ideas than were entertained before. The title of master of a

family necessarily requires more solid behaviour and deportment; the

new wife follows in the trammels of Custom, which are as powerful as

the tyranny of fashion; she gradually advises and directs; the new

husband soon goes to sea, he leaves her to learn and exercise the

new government, in which she is entered. Those who stay at home are

full as passive in general, at least with regard to the inferior

departments of the family. But you must not imagine from this

account that the Nantucket wives are turbulent, of high temper, and

difficult to be ruled; on the contrary, the wives of Sherburn in so

doing, comply only with the prevailing custom of the island: the

husbands, equally submissive to the ancient and respectable manners

of their country, submit, without ever suspecting that there can be

any impropriety. Were they to behave otherwise, they would be afraid

of subverting the principles of their society by altering its

ancient rules; thus both parties are perfectly satisfied, and all is

peace and concord. The richest person now in the island owes all his

present prosperity and success to the ingenuity of his wife: this is

a known fact which is well recorded; for while he was performing his

first cruises, she traded with pins and needles, and kept a school.

Afterward she purchased more considerable articles, which she sold

with so much judgment, that she laid the foundation of a system of

business, that she has ever since prosecuted with equal dexterity

and success. She wrote to London, formed connections, and, in short,

became the only ostensible instrument of that house, both at home

and abroad. Who is he in this country, and who is a citizen of

Nantucket or Boston, who does not know Aunt Kesiah? I must tell you

that she is the wife of Mr. C----n, a very respectable man, who,

well pleased with all her schemes, trusts to her judgment, and

relies on her sagacity, with so entire a confidence, as to be

altogether passive to the concerns of his family. They have the best

country seat on the island, at Quayes, where they live with

hospitality, and in perfect union. He seems to be altogether the

contemplative man.

To this dexterity in managing the husband's business whilst he is

absent, the Nantucket wives unite a great deal of industry. They

spin, or cause to be spun in their houses, abundance of wool and

flax; and would be for ever disgraced and looked upon as idlers if

all the family were not clad in good, neat, and sufficient home-spun

cloth. First Days are the only seasons when it is lawful for both

sexes to exhibit some garments of English manufacture; even these

are of the most moderate price, and of the gravest colours: there is

no kind of difference in their dress, they are all clad alike, and

resemble in that respect the members of one family.

A singular custom prevails here among the women, at which I was

greatly surprised; and am really at a loss how to account for the

original cause that has introduced in this primitive society so

remarkable a fashion, or rather so extraordinary a want. They have

adopted these many years the Asiatic custom of taking a dose of

opium every morning; and so deeply rooted is it, that they would be

at a loss how to live without this indulgence; they would rather be

deprived of any necessary than forego their favourite luxury. This

is much more prevailing among the women than the men, few of the

latter having caught the contagion; though the sheriff, whom I may

call the first person in the island, who is an eminent physician

beside, and whom I had the pleasure of being well acquainted with,

has for many years submitted to this custom. He takes three grains

of it every day after breakfast, without the effects of which, he

often told me, he was not able to transact any business.

It is hard to conceive how a people always happy and healthy, in

consequence of the exercise and labour they undergo, never oppressed

with the vapours of idleness, yet should want the fictitious effects

of opium to preserve that cheerfulness to which their temperance,

their climate, their happy situation so justly entitle them. But

where is the society perfectly free from error or folly; the least

imperfect is undoubtedly that where the greatest good preponderates;

and agreeable to this rule, I can truly say, that I never was

acquainted with a less vicious, or more harmless one.

The majority of the present inhabitants are the descendants of the

twenty-seven first proprietors, who patenteed the island; of the

rest, many others have since come over among them, chiefly from the

Massachusetts: here are neither Scotch, Irish, nor French, as is the

case in most other settlements; they are an unmixed English breed.

The consequence of this extended connection is, that they are all in

some degree related to each other: you must not be surprised

therefore when I tell you, that they always call each other cousin,

uncle or aunt; which are become such common appellations, that no

other are made use of in their daily intercourse: you would be

deemed stiff and affected were you to refuse conforming yourself to

this ancient custom, which truly depicts the image of a large

family. The many who reside here that have not the least claim of

relationship with any one in the town, yet by the power of custom

make use of no other address in their conversation. Were you here

yourself but a few days, you would be obliged to adopt the same

phraseology, which is far from being disagreeable, as it implies a

general acquaintance and friendship, which connects them all in

unity and peace.

Their taste for fishing has been so prevailing, that it has

engrossed all their attention, and even prevented them from

introducing some higher degree of perfection in their agriculture.

There are many useful improvements which might have meliorated their

soil; there are many trees which if transplanted here would have

thriven extremely well, and would have served to shelter as well as

decorate the favourite spots they have so carefully manured. The red

cedar, the locust, [Footnote: A species of what we call here the

two-thorn acacia: it yields the most valuable timber we have, and

its shade is very beneficial to the growth and goodness of the

grass.] the button wood, I am persuaded would have grown here

rapidly and to a great size, with many others; but their thoughts

are turned altogether toward the sea. The Indian corn begins to

yield them considerable crops, and the wheat sown on its stocks is

become a very profitable grain; rye will grow with little care; they

might raise if they would, an immense quantity of buck-wheat.

Such an island inhabited as I have described, is not the place where

gay travellers should resort, in order to enjoy that variety of

pleasures the more splendid towns of this continent afford. Not that

they are wholly deprived of what we might call recreations, and

innocent pastimes; but opulence, instead of luxuries and

extravagancies, produces nothing more here than an increase of

business, an additional degree of hospitality, greater neatness in

the preparation of dishes, and better wines. They often walk and

converse with each other, as I have observed before; and upon

extraordinary occasions, will take a ride to Palpus, where there is

an house of entertainment; but these rural amusements are conducted

upon the same plan of moderation, as those in town. They are so

simple as hardly to be described; the pleasure of going and

returning together; of chatting and walking about, of throwing the

bar, heaving stones, etc., are the only entertainments they are

acquainted with. This is all they practise, and all they seem to

desire. The house at Palpus is the general resort of those who

possess the luxury of a horse and chaise, as well as of those who

still retain, as the majority do, a predilection for their primitive

vehicle. By resorting to that place they enjoy a change of air, they

taste the pleasures of exercise; perhaps an exhilarating bowl, not

at all improper in this climate, affords the chief indulgence known

to these people, on the days of their greatest festivity. The

mounting a horse, must afford a most pleasing exercise to those men

who are so much at sea. I was once invited to that house, and had

the satisfaction of conducting thither one of the many beauties of

that island (for it abounds with handsome women) dressed in all the

bewitching attire of the most charming simplicity: like the rest of

the company, she was cheerful without loud laughs, and smiling

without affectation. They all appeared gay without levity. I had

never before in my life seen so much unaffected mirth, mixed with so

much modesty. The pleasures of the day were enjoyed with the

greatest liveliness and the most innocent freedom; no disgusting

pruderies, no coquettish airs tarnished this enlivening assembly:

they behaved according to their native dispositions, the only rules

of decorum with which they were acquainted. What would an European

visitor have done here without a fiddle, without a dance, without

cards? He would have called it an insipid assembly, and ranked this

among the dullest days he had ever spent. This rural excursion had a

very great affinity to those practised in our province, with this

difference only, that we have no objection to the sportive dance,

though conducted by the rough accents of some self-taught African

fiddler. We returned as happy as we went; and the brightness of the

moon kindly lengthened a day which had past, like other agreeable

ones, with singular rapidity.

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