CLASSIFICATION AND DESCRIPTION OF TEAS.
The Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan, India, Ceylon
and Java Teas, but are generally divided into Green and Black Teas,
under which terms they are best known to the public. They are again
sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with names derived
from the districts of production or indicative of their age, make or
quality, these numerous applications being almost entirely of Chinese
origin.
[Illustration: (China Tea Plant.)]
CHINA TEAS
Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising Oolongs,
Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the latter including Imperials,
Gunpowders, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas.
[Illustration: _a_--Firsts. _b_--Seconds. _c_--Thirds. _d_--Fourths.
(Black Tea Plant.)]
OOLONG TEAS
Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Saryune and
Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from lowest to highest in the order named.
~Ankoi Oolong~--Is a doubtful species of the genus tea and said to
be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling but
widely distinct from those of the true tea plant. The leaf is rough and
coarse, reddish-black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in
general appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily or earthy in
flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It is generally used for
mixing with low-grade Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy
flavor, and should be avoided by the dealer altogether.
~Amoy Oolongs~--Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Ningyong Oolong teas and
are fairly good teas for blending purposes, many of them drawing
and drinking exceedingly well in the cup. The leaf, while large and
somewhat coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule, while the
liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent. The poorer grades,
however, possess a wild or herby flavor, strongly objected to by the
majority of tea consumers.
~Foochow Oolong~--Ranks among the best of the black teas of China. The
leaf of the finer grades being black and silky in appearance, rich and
mellow in liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and lower
grades are somewhat larger and looser in make they possess splendid cup
qualities, making the most suitable foundation for all blends in this
country, being useful and serviceable for the purpose.
~Formosa Oolong~--Is unique in leaf, liquor and flavor, differing
widely in character and flavor from the former varieties. They possess
a rich, fragrant aroma, the leaf being very pleasing in the hand,
evenly curled and crapy in texture, and impart tone and character to
any combination in which they may be introduced.
~Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs~--Are very rare sorts in this market, the
latter deriving its trade-name from being liberally sprinkled with
Pekoe-tipped leaves. They are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly
curled and pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown in
color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in flavor.
CONGOU TEAS.
Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills in China, and are
known to trade in this country as English Breakfast Teas. They are
divided into Kaisow or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and are
a distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from the
Oolong sorts.
~Kaisow~--or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos, Seumoos, Suey-kuts,
Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo, Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how.
The leaf is reddish-black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor
rich-red or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the taste.
Their special feature is their delicate and to a high degree fragrant
flavor, which they impart to other Teas in combination, provided the
others are not too strong or coarse.
~Moning~--or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oonams,
Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiukangs, Panyongs, Paklins and
Paklums, and are black in color, stylish in make; the finer grades
being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or
wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very useful Teas for
blending purposes, combining advantageously with any and all the other
varieties.
SOUCHONG TEAS
Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea sorts of China,
but are limited in supply, being chiefly prepared from the youngest
leaves of the earlier pickings. They are known to trade as Lapsing,
Padrae, Pekoe, Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is long,
flat, handsome and “crapy” in texture, finely and artistically curled,
being only lightly fired. They yield a rich wine-colored liquor, with
a fragrant flavor entirely peculiar to themselves, and described as
“tarry” in trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than
detracts from their value. The product of the later pickings are of
less strength and flavor, but are still smooth and pleasing in liquor
and flavor, making very serviceable teas for mixing owing to their
general intrinsic properties.
SCENTED TEAS
Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise Foochow,
Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are sub-divided into Capers,
Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange, Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very
fragrant, being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms and
roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessamine, Gardenia,
Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. They are principally prepared from the
largest but most succulent leaves of the first pickings and cured by a
series of brisk firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made,
long and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored, piquant
and aromatic, from which fact consumers not accustomed to their use
erroneously imagine that they are much stronger and more exciting than
the Oolong and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very sparingly
in blending.
~Caper~--Is so termed from its small, round leaf resembling capers, and
is prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant.
The infusion is of a rich wine-color, pungent and aromatic in flavor,
forming what is termed a bouquet.
~Pekoe~--Signifies in Chinese “White down,” applied to the whitish
or downy substance at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared
from the young leaf buds just expanding, and is a very much overrated
variety.
~Pouchong~--Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black in color and
peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted to it by the admixture of
the seeds of the Chulan flower.
~Orange Pekoe~--Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black in color and
containing yellowish, downy tops at the ends, from which it derives its
trade name.
~Flowery Pekoe~--Is a smaller but more evenly-folded leaf,
olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or velvety tips, being
also very highly scented with the flowers or blossoms of other plants.
In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material is added to
the tea during the firing process and afterward separated by sifting,
but is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is
prepared and ready for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea
and allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it becomes
strongly impregnated with their moisture, and then removed, the
duration depending in a great measure on the character of the scent
employed.
[Illustration: _a_--Gunpowder. _b_--Young Hyson. _c_--Imperial.
_d_--Hyson. _e_--Twankey.
(Green Tea Plant.)]
GREEN TEAS
Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings and Pingsueys,
district names, and grading in the order named.
~Moyune~--Is the most valuable intrinsically and commercially, being
far superior to all the others in make, color, draw and drink. The leaf
is firmly rolled, natural green in color and extremely uniform in
appearance, while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor,
forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea.
~Hychows~--Are much inferior to the former in leaf and liquor, the
infusion, although darker in color, is lighter in body and devoid of
any pronounced flavor.
~Fychows~--Are generally bold and rough in leaf, dull-green in color,
dark and heavy in liquor and astringent in flavor, being in the whole
a very undesirable sort for any purpose.
~Tienkes~--While long and coarse in make are yet pleasing to the eye,
being chiefly sold in style as they will not stand the cup test, the
infusion being dark, thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing
to high firing.
~Tayshings~--Like Tienkes look well in the hand, being fairly well-made
and stylish-looking, but are of a leaden-blue color, the result of the
facing or coloring matter used to enhance their appearance, while the
liquor is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste.
~Pingsueys~--Are termed by the Chinese Bastard Tea, being principally
prepared from the leaves of some shrub remotely resembling those of
the Tea plant. While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of
heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the gypsum used in
their preparation and are entirely unfit for human use.
What are known as “Canton” and “Country” Green Teas are also spurious
Teas, the former being manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves,
that is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum or
Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the leaves of wild or
uncultivated Tea plants.
[Illustration: (Picking Tea in China.)]
SUB-VARIETIES.
The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in Gunpowders, Imperials,
Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age
or other peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need
description.
~Gunpowder~--Is termed by the Chinese “Choo-Cha” or Pearl tea, from
its small, round or shotty appearance. It is generally prepared from
the smallest and youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality
corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of the
first crop is sometimes known as “Pin-head” from its extremely small,
round or globular appearance.
~Imperial~--Derives its trade name from being the style or make of
Tea used in the Imperial household and by the Mandarins or wealthier
Chinese. That exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of
the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as the former,
from which fact it is also known as “Big Gunpowder” and also as
“Pea-leaf.” But while larger and bolder in make it possesses much the
same drawing and drinking qualities.
~Hyson~--Is known to the Chinese as “He-tsien” or “Flourishing Spring”
from being picked in the full spring-time, and is large and loosely
made, being prepared from the older leaves of each respective picking.
It bears the same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to
Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but in a minor degree.
~Young Hyson~--Is a corruption of the Chinese term, “Yu-tsien,” or
Early Spring, from being gathered in the early spring-time, and in make
the leaves are extremely small, finely but artistically twisted, almost
wirey in texture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves
of the tea plant.
~Twankay~--Or “Hyson-skin,” is composed chiefly of the largest and
oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties that cannot, owing to their
coarse or broken condition, be rolled or converted into the former
makes. It is a large, loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color,
liquor and flavor, according to the grades from which it is separated.
Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding
the species of plant yielding the varieties known as Green and Black
teas, many authorities claiming that the former was produced from
the Green tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea
plant solely, while again it was held by others that both varieties
were prepared at pleasure from but one and the same species, the
mere difference in color, flavor and effects being due entirely to
a disparity in the soil and process of curing. But later and more
careful investigation disprove these particular opinions, as while it
is now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both kinds may
be produced at will from either or both species of the tea plant, it
is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial
kinds in all districts, as the preparation of the greater proportion of
the respective varieties is carried on in widely separated districts
of the Empire from corresponding species of the tea plant, different
methods being adopted only in the process of curing the two kinds from
the first stage. Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black
in such instances by the fact that the former are not fermented as long
or fired as high in the process of rolling as the latter. It was also
a commonly-received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of
Green teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in copper
pans. For this belief, however, there is not the slightest foundation
in fact, as copper pans are never used for the purpose of firing tea,
repeated experiments and unerring tests having been frequently made by
competent experts, but not even in a single instance has any trace of
that metal been found in them.
[Illustration: (Japan Tea Plant.)]
JAPAN TEAS.
In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally distinct
from any and all other varieties of Tea known to commerce. They are
divided into Panfired, Sundried and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but
are frequently converted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials,
Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes.
[Illustration: (Curing Tea.)]
~Panfired Japan~--Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea, well-curled and
presenting an unbroken appearance. It yields a bright clear liquor
which remains unchanged in color until quite cold, and possesses a
flavor delicate but fragrant in odor. The medium grades, however, are
rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor, while the
commoner ones are coarse and unsightly in style, varying in color and
somewhat “brassy” or metallic in flavor.
~Sundried Japan~--Derive their trade-name from being dried in the
sun before firing, in order to fix their color more permanently. The
leaf is of an olive-green color, small and compactly curled, and the
liquor what is known as “toasty” in flavor owing to their thorough
fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from a yellowish to a
dull-green in color, indifferently made and often “fishy” in taste from
the use of fish manure in cultivating.
~Basketfired Japan~--Is so called from being cured in baskets over a
slow fire. The finer grades are long, dark and exceedingly well twisted
or curled, clear and bright in the infusion and mellow or “mealy”
in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for
blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to four of Oolong,
or almost any variety into which they are introduced.
[Illustration: (Firing Tea.)]
~Japan Nibs~--Are composed of the largest and oldest leaves of the
foregoing sorts, and bear the same relation to Japan Teas that Twankay
does to Green Teas. In the cheaper and lower-grade blends they make
an excellent addition by imparting strength and fullness to the
combination, particularly when separated from the higher grades of
Japan Teas.
[Illustration: (Rolling and Curling.)]
~Japan Oolongs~--Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gunpowder and Hysons
differ only from the regular Japan Teas in make, and from being
prepared from the same leaf they naturally possess the same general
characteristics and cup qualities, but are not produced in any
appreciable quantities.
[Illustration: (Sorting Tea.)]
[Illustration: (India and Ceylon Tea Plant.)]
INDIA TEAS.
Principally comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Dooars, Deradoons,
Kumaons and Chittagongs, ranking in quality in the order named, and
are converted into Pekoes, Souchongs, Congous and Pekoe-Souchongs
resembling most the Congou sorts of China in make, style, color and
general appearance, but many of them being produced from a combination
of the China and India Tea plants are hybrid in character, differing
widely from their originals. In make and style they are in general
longer and narrower in leaf, better curled and more shapely in form
than the corresponding Chinese varieties, but contain a much greater
excess of tannin which accounts for their superior strength or rather
rankness in the infused state.
[Illustration: (India Tea Plantation.)]
~Assams~--Are greyish-black in color, the dried leaf of the finer
grades being pekoe-tipped and flavored. The liquor is unusually strong
and pungent in addition to being thick and heavy in the cup, but are
very useful for forming the base or foundation of all blends among
Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers.
~Cachars~--Are blacker in color, but not as well made or handsome
in appearance. The infusion, however, is softer and mellower, being
occasionally what is known as “fruity” in flavor.
~Darjeeling~--Is a hybrid variety, produced from a cross between the
China and India Tea plants and partakes somewhat of the characteristics
of both. But, while blacker in leaf, it is not on an average as finely
made, and while round and full in body is not as pungent or flavory in
the infusion.
~Dooars~--Approximate more to Cachars in style, color and general
appearance, and are strong, rough and coarse in liquor, but pungent and
pleasing in flavor, being a serviceable Tea for blending, as it imparts
tone and character to any combination in it which it may be used.
~Deradoon~--Is a high-fired Tea, loosely made and deteriorating
rapidly, becoming sour or rancid on exposure to the atmosphere in
a very short time. The liquor is frequently “earthy” in taste and
somewhat analogous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reasons they are
not much sought after.
~Kumaon~--Is generally converted into Gunpowder, Imperial and Hyson
Teas, all being prepared from the same leaf, the chief and only
difference lying in their make and color, as they still retain all
their Indian characteristics of liquor and flavor.
~Chittagong~--Is thick, heavy and strong in the cup, and what is termed
“nutty” in flavor and are considered good, useful Teas for blending
purposes from their great strength and positive character.
India Teas in general possess a sharp acid taste not to be found in any
of the foregoing varieties, and a distinct but peculiar flavor, rarely
liked by American Tea consumers, except when largely tempered with the
softer and more mellow liquored Teas of China. In order to neutralize
or offset this disagreeable peculiarity, it is at all times necessary
to use only the best of the India grades in blending. Another very
disagreeable feature of India Teas is that of the formation of an oily
or gummy film which settles on top of the liquor after infusion. The
loss of flavor and rapid decay in exposure is also greater in India
Teas than in most other varieties. The grades most easily affected in
this manner being the two highly-fired, light-liquored and open-leaf
makes.
[Illustration: (Ceylon Tea Plantation.)]
CEYLON TEAS.
~Ceylon Teas~--Are comparatively new Teas to commerce, and are known to
trade as Matagalas, Mandulsumas, Rakuwanas, Kanda-loyas, Kandapole and
Soocan-duris, but as with India Teas they are chiefly converted into
silver and golden Pekoe, Congous, Souchongs and Pekoe-Souchongs. Their
leaf, liquor and flavor like their India prototypes varies greatly
in style and quality, according to the elevation at which they are
grown, their uniformity also varying from year to year as in the India
districts.
~Silver Pekoe~--Is a long, whitish, downey-leaf Tea, almost “satiny” in
texture, with silvery tips at the ends. The liquor is dark, reddish in
color, but bright and sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in
flavor for this variety but very much overrated in value.
~Golden Pekoe~--Is a much smaller leaf Tea, darker in color and
somewhat silky in texture and liberally sprinkled with rich, yellow
or orange tips while the inferior grades are much darker and heavier
in body, but fresh, fragrant and greatly appreciated by consumers who
prefer this variety.
~Pekoe-Souchong~--Is chiefly composed of the Pekoe leaves that are
devoid of tips and Souchong containing some tipped leaves, but as a
general rule it is an unassorted Tea prepared from the larger and
coarser leaves that will not pass through the sieves. It is medium in
size and choppy in leaf, but ripe and rich in liquor, fairly brisk and
malty in flavor.
CEYLON CONGOUS AND SOUCHONGS.
Closely resemble the corresponding India kinds in make, color, liquor
and flavor, and make excellent Teas for combining in blending but like
the India sorts will not keep as long or as well as the China or Japan
kinds, becoming sour and rancid in a few months, defects attributed to
the rapid artificial methods of curing practiced in these countries.
[Illustration: (Ceylon Tea Factory.)]
~Broken Leaf~--India and Ceylon Broken-leaf Teas are composed of the
old, broken and mutilated leaves of the other sorts which are separated
in sifting, and bear the same relation to these varieties that Twankay
does to China Green Teas and Nibs to the Japan sorts. They vary in
color from brown to black, their strength being seldom great, though
the flavor of the finer grades is in general good, drawing and drinking
in proportion to the grades from which they are separated, while that
of the commoner kinds is poor, thin and coarse in liquor and flavor.
[Illustration: _a_--Pekoe. _b_--Souchong. _c_--Congou.
_d_--Souchong-Congou.
(Java Tea Plant.)]
JAVA TEAS.
Are known to commerce as Preangers, Krawangs, Cheribons, Bagelens and
Banjœmas Teas, and are classified as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs and
Souchongs, after the manner of India and Ceylon Teas. The leaves of the
different kinds are sorted during the picking, and graded according
to size, the smallest being converted into Pekoe, the medium into
Souchong, and the largest into Oolongs and Congous.
Java Teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull-black in
color, but rather handsome in general appearance, and approximating
more to the India variety in style, color and character, but do not
keep as well, becoming rank and sour when allowed to lay too long. The
liquor of Java Teas is also deficient in strength, body and flavor,
being almost totally devoid of any distinctive aroma or pronounced
fragrance, defects attributable mainly to their faulty and imperfect
methods of curing and preparing, as well as to the fact that the leaves
are picked from the plants all the year round, and allowed no time for
rest or recuperation, and making very indifferent Teas for blending or
using alone.
The last three varieties are generally converted in Congous and
Souchongs, ranking with and approximating to Java Teas in style, color
and character.
~African Teas~--Are large, black and coarse in leaf and liquor, being
very bitter and astringent in flavor. They make poor Teas for blending
purposes.
~Fiji Teas~--Like African are coarse in leaf, blackish in liquor and
almost rank in flavor.
~Singapore Tea~--Is also a very inferior grade for blending, being too
pronounced in character for the purpose.