Cod; they were but small, but fine full Fish. The Whaleboat was sent up
with some Hands, to sound and find a Harbour: And three Persons went on
Shore to a high Summit, about four Miles off, to view the Country: Saw
in their Way many Tracts of Deer, a deep Soil, good Grass, and met with
several large level Spots, with Ponds of Water; thick Groves of Timber,
and a plentiful Herbage. The Country, from this Summit, appeared to
consist of Ridges and Mountains; and as the Weather changed from fine
and pleasant, to thick and hazey, they saw the Clouds settle on several
Ridges of the Mountain, near them, as also on the Heighth where they
were, and under them. And when they returned the People on board said
they had had some smart Showers of Rain, which those who had been on
the Heighth were not sensible of.
In the Afternoon they proceeded with the Schooner to a Harbour which
those who had been sent out with the Whaleboat had discovered, an
extraordinary fine Harbour; and it may be here observed in general,
that most of the Harbours are very fine ones. There are many of them,
and not far the one from the other.
There were on the Shore, in many Places, the Remainder of _Eskemaux_
Encampments, but some Time since they had been there. Timbers of Boats,
on the Shores, which were much decayed, had laid long in the Weather;
in the Carpenter's Opinion the Boats they had belonged to must have
been built fifteen or twenty Years, seemed to be the Timbers of such
Boats as had been seen with the _Eskemaux_.
The succeeding Day there was such Weather as they could not proceed;
the Day after, the 25th, run up the Inlet about eight Leagues from
the Harbour, which was about eighteen Leagues from the Entrance of
the Inlet. As they proceeded they found the Country more level, thick
Woods, intermixed with Birch Trees, and both Shores afforded a pleasant
Verdure. They could not proceed further with the Schooner, by Reason
of Falls; which, being surveyed the next Day, might be passed with the
Schooner, but with some Difficulty. Therefore early in the Morning of
the 27th, at a proper Time of Tide, when the Falls were level, a Party
went in a Whaleboat, with a small Boat in tow loaded with Provisions,
Bedding, and a Sail for a Tent, to explore the Head of the Inlet.
The furthest they could get with the Boat was about five Leagues,
being intercepted by impassable Falls, about 300 Feet in Length, and
forty Feet their perpendicular Height, though of gradual Descent. The
Fall Rocks, but the Bank of the Northern Shore, which was steep, was
a Kind of Marl, without any Mixture of Stone; and no frozen Earth
here, or in any other Part, usual in _Hudson_'s Bay, as was proved by
repeated Experiments: Therefore it may be concluded that this is a more
temperate Climate in Winter than in any Part about _Hudson_'s Bay, in
the same or lower Latitudes.
From the first Falls to the second there were large Levels along Shore,
the Mountains at a considerable Distance within Land, especially those
on the North Side. The Mountains and Shores thick cloathed with Pine,
Spruce, Birch, and Alder, much larger and of better Growth than those
Trees nearer the Sea Coast; some Pines measured twenty-five Inches in
Diameter. In a Pond, on the North Shore, saw two Beaver Houses, and
there were Plenty of Beaver Marks, as Dams, Trees barked and felled by
them. The Water was fresh between the first and second Falls. Poles of
_Indian_ Tents in many Places along Shore, Lodgments only for single
Families, tied together with Strips of Deer Skin, and no Encampments
after the _Eskemaux_ Manner, shewed that a different _Indians_ from the
_Eskemaux_ resorted into this Part. The whole Country had a pleasant
Appearance; but as they came near to the upper Falls, the Verdure of
the Woods, barren Points of Rocks that exalted themselves, terminating
the View, the Disposition of the Woods which had all the Regularity
of Art, joined to the Freedom of Nature, the Gloom of the Evening,
the slow steady Course of the Water, and the Echoes of the rumbling
Fall, afforded such a Scene as affected even those that rowed; and
they said, it was the pleasantest Place they had ever seen. On a level
Point, beautifully green, situated at a small Distance from an Opening
in the Woods, and in full View of and Hearing of the Falls, there were
the Poles of an _Indian_ Tent, which, from the Ashes scarce cold, a
Breast-bone of a wild Goose, with some little Meat on it that had
been broiled, Pieces of Birch Bark left, seemed to have been not long
deserted, and the Situation was such as expressed the late Inhabitants
to have the softest Sensations. In coming up the Inlet they had found
where there had been a small Fire made, as supposed, to dress Victuals,
but put out or covered with Turf, a usual Practice amongst Southern
_Indians_ to conceal the Smoke, when they suppose the Enemy is near.
The Boats were securely harboured, a Tent erected, with a good Fire
before it, and the People rested securely all Night.
The next Day, _August_ the 28th, two Persons were detached to a Summit,
in Appearance about twelve Miles off, others went and hung Strings of
Beads, Combs, Knives, and other Peltry, on the Trees, some at a Mile,
and others at a further Distance, from where they kept their Camp all
Day, to invite the _Indians_ to a Converse with them; but no _Indians_
were seen, nor any Thing meddled with. Those who had walked to take
the View from the Summit, saw the Water above the Falls extend a great
Distance into the Country, but not the Termination of it, passing
through Meadow Lands of large Dimensions, and by the Foot of small
rising Land, they saw a large high Ridge of blue Mountains at a great
Distance, running North and South, which was supposed to be the Bounds
of the new discovered Sea in _Hudson_'s Bay: Saw several other Ridges
of Land, but seemingly more level than those to Seaward; passed over
in travelling several Spots of excellent Soil, the Timber of good Size
and Growth. There was a great Plenty of Grass and Herbage; walked a
great Way in an _Indian_ Path, and saw several marked Trees, as is
practised amongst the Southern _Indians_. They returned in the Evening,
much fatigued with the Heat of the Sun, and swelled with the Bites of
Musquetoes, and a small black Fly, like those in _England_ called a
Midge. Those that staid at the Encampment were also much plagued with
these Insects.
The Latitude of the upper Falls was 54 Deg. 48 Min. near the imaginary
Line that bounded the _English_ and _French_ Limits in these Parts;
and it being supposed that the two Inlets, seen from the Height above
the Harbour where they first anchored, would terminate in the _French_
Limits; they therefore had declined making any Search there, and
proceeded to search the Inlet to Northward.
The next Morning they set out to return to the Schooner, with a Design
to search the other Inlet to Northward, seen from the Mountain at the
Back of the first Harbour, but not seen since by Reason of a high Ridge
of Mountains, as it was supposed, that covered it. In the Night there
had been a sharp Frost, and early in the Morning a thick Fog. About
Ten in the Morning they were returned to the Schooner. Several of the
People, contrary to the written Instructions which were left, had
rambled from the Vessel, got on the Heights, rolled down the _Indian_
Marks, which are Stones that they put up one on another on the Knolls
and Summits of Hills, to direct them in their journeying; a Proceeding
which was highly dissatisfactory to the Commander, considering the
Disposition which it was found the Natives were in, and whom, with the
greatest Industry, they could not get a Sight of. The People had shot
some few Fowl, which were plentier in this Inlet than any where that
they had seen, but very shy and wild. They sailed that Afternoon to the
Harbour which they were at when they first entered this Inlet.
_August_ the 29th they sailed out of this Inlet to go to the Northward,
keeping within a Ledge of Islands, as they might pass no Part of the
Coast unsearched. Met with some Difficulties amongst the Shoals and
Rocks; but about Four in the Afternoon were clear of all, and plyed to
Windward to enter the third or more Northern Inlet, which they had now
open. Saw at the Head of a pretty deep Cove, on the South Side in that
Inlet, a strong Smoke arise, and that immediately answered by a lesser
Smoke on the Northern Side of the Inlet. The Smoke on the Northern
Side the Inlet continued towering and freshening; on seeing which they
immediately steered for the Cove, supposing the Smoke to be made by the
Natives as a Signal for Trade; but were delayed entering by the Tide
of Ebb. At Sunset were surprised with a Squall of Wind, which came on
in a Moment, and the Schooner in extreme Danger of being ashore on the
Rocks. A hard Gale succeeded, but they fortunately attained a Harbour,
which had been before discovered by the Boat, and rode secure.
The 31st of _August_, the Weather being moderate, two Persons went over
the Heights to the Head of the Cove, in Pursuit of the Natives; and
three Persons went in a Boat to the Head of the Cove, with some trading
Goods, and to pass the two who walked, over the Water if it ran up into
the Country, and the Natives should be on the opposite Shore; but after
rowing up about two Leagues they found a Termination of the Water,
landed and ascended the Heights, where they found a very large Plain,
without Ponds, and a fine Soil, which they passed over and descended
into a Valley, thick Groves, good Grass, and large Ponds. Here they met
with a Bear; which one of the People firing too precipitately missed.
Several Bears had been seen before, some Foxes, many Tracts of Wolves,
both on the Shores and Inland, and in one Place Otter Paths.
Three of the People were sent to return with the Boat aboard, and two
set out to go up a Mountain which promised a good Sight of the Country,
and seemed possible that they might attain to the Summit of it, and
return to the Schooner that Night; but were deceived by the Height of
the Mountain as to the Distance they were from it. In the Ascent they
found great Declivities and Hollows in the Sides of the Mountain, the
Rocks rent in a most surprising Manner, having Rents or Fissures in
them from thirty to seventy Feet in Depth; some tremendous to look
down, and not above two or three Feet in Breadth. The Dogs that were
with them would not, after looking down, jump over them, but howled
and took a Sweep round. In the Levels and Hollows on the Side there
lay great Heaps of fallen Rock. Some Stones or solid Pieces of ten
or fifteen Tons Weight, besides innumerable lesser Pieces. And found
a Patch of Snow in one of the Hollows, about forty Feet in Breadth,
and fourteen Feet in perpendicular Height, frozen solid, and seemed
of the same Consistence with the Islands of Ice. The Persons, though
constantly labouring, did not attain to the Top of the Mountain until
about Half an Hour before Sunset, where they found a thin Air, and
a fresh sharp cold Wind; though below, and in their Ascent, they had
experienced pleasant warm Weather, and little Wind. From the Mountain
they perceived a Smoke, about ten Miles off more inland, the usual
Practice of the _Indians_ in the Evenings, when they form their Camps,
to make a Fire to dress their Provisions, and to be by all Night; and
it was then suspected that they were flying more inland, and that the
Smokes seen the Night before were Signals from one Party to another to
retire on seeing the Schooner, supposing us Enemies. It was too late
that Night to return to the Head of the Cove, therefore encamped that
Night on the Side of the Mountain in the Woods, near to a level Spot
without the least Unevenness of above six Hundred Feet in Breadth, and
three Hundred over, exactly resembling a Pavement without any Fissure
or Opening in it. The next Day got to the Head of the Cove, near twelve
Miles from the Mountain; on a Signal made the Boat fetched them aboard,
where the People expressed in their Countenances a universal Joy at
seeing their Commander safe returned, which was a great Satisfaction
to him, as it was an Instance more sincerely expressed than by formal
Words addressed to him, that they looked on their Security to depend
on his Preservation. The Wind was contrary to their getting out of the
Harbour that Afternoon; but the Boats were employed in seeking the best
Channel for the Schooner to go out at.
The Morning of _September_ the 2d, the Wind proved favourable, and
that Evening they got a good Way up the third Inlet. When they were
some Way up the Inlet, they discovered a Smoke upon an Island at the
Entrance of the Inlet, and, when at Anchor, a Smoke also on the North
Shore. Therefore by Day-light, _September_ the 3d, the Time when
Smokes are most discernable and looked out for by the _Indians_, a
Person was sent to fire the Brush on an Eminence ashore, to answer
that Smoke seen on the North Shore the Night before. Then the Schooner
proceeded up the Inlet, and by Ten o'Clock was come to the Extremity
of it, which terminated in a Bay of very deep Water, surrounded by
very steep Mountains, with Groves of Trees on them; but they found a
good Anchorage in a Cove, and an excellent Harbour. The Heights being
ascended, it was perceived there was a narrow Streight out of this
Inlet, which communicated with Ponds. And that there was a fourth Inlet
to Northward, and which extended further to Westward than the Inlet
which the Vessel was now in, and about four Miles off, beyond the Hills
there appeared a towering Smoke, upon the Sight of which the Persons
who went to take the View returned aboard to get some Provisions, and
a Parcel of trading Goods, and set out again with an Intention to seek
the Natives, and spend the Night amongst them. The Boat put them ashore
where it was thought most convenient and nearest Place to the Smoke,
but it proved otherwise; for after travelling about three Miles they
fell in with a Chain of Ponds, which they were forced to go round. Hot
sultry Weather, the Woods thick, without the least Breath of Wind,
infinite Number of Musquetoes and Midges. But by being thus to go round
the Ponds, had the Satisfaction of seeing several Beavers Dams made
to keep out the Tide Waters. They saw a Continuance of the Smoke, and
shaped a Course for it; but when on the Heights perceived that the
Smoke was on an Island about two Miles off the Shore in the fourth
Inlet, therefore returned to the Vessel that Night.
The 4th of _September_, in the Morning, they towed out of the Harbour
they were in, the Wind soon after sprung up, and by Night they go out
of the Inlet, and anchored amongst some Islands, just at the Entrance
of the fourth Inlet.
The next Morning, _September_ the 5th, entered the fourth Inlet; but
being becalmed a small Time catched above fifty Cod, much such as they
had before taken. By Twelve o'Clock were abreast of the Island where
they had seen the Smoke on the 3d, and which was four Leagues from the
Entrance: Could perceive no Natives, but several Fires, and that there
had been a great burning of the Brush; soon after saw a Snow lying
at an Anchor, which hoisted _English_ Colours, and fired a Gun. They
hoisted the Colours aboard the Schooner, fired a Swivel, and bore away
for the Snow. The Wind was fresh, and, as the Schooner was entering the
Harbour, two People came running over the Rocks, hailed, but it could
not be well understood what they said; but it was a friendly Precaution
as to some Rocks which lay off there. The Snow's People then took to
their Boat, and made a Trip to view the Schooner as she was coming to
an Anchor, and then returned aboard. A Whaleboat was hoisted out, and
a Person sent in it to go aboard the Snow, and know where she was from,
and to let the Captain know they would be glad to see him aboard the
Schooner.
The Person sent, and Capt. _Elijah Goff_ the Commander of the Snow,
returned aboard in a short Time; and the Particulars of what the
Captain related were, That the Snow was fitted out by Mr. _Nesbit_,
a Merchant in _London_: That he, the present Captain, had been the
Year before Mate of the same Vessel on this Coast: That she was then
fitted out by _Bell, Nesbit_ and Company; the intended Voyage kept a
great Secret. They had, the Year before as a Captain, a _Dane_ who had
used the _Greenland_ Trade, and could talk the _Eskemaux_ Language.
That the Snow had been at _Newfoundland_, and afterwards came on the
_Labrador_ Coast; but being Strangers to the Coast, and the Captain
very obstinate, the Vessel was several Times in Danger, which raised a
Mutiny amongst the People, who had formed a Resolution of seizing the
Ship, and bearing away for _Newfoundland_; which Mutiny was appeased,
and the People consented to go to the _Labrador_, where they harboured
_July_ the 20th, in the same Harbour which the Schooner first entered
this Year. They brought with them four of the _Unitas Fratrum_, or
_Moravian_ Brethren, who were to remain during the Winter, to attain
an Acquaintance with the Natives, and lay a Foundation of Trade: That
the House, the Ruins of which the Discoverer saw, was built for the
Residence of these Brethren; and, being compleated by the Beginning of
_September_, the Snow left them in Possession of it, and set out to
make Discoveries, and pursue a Trade to Northward: That they had some
Trade in _Nesbit_'s Harbour, the Name they had given to the Harbour
where the House was, and also on the Coast before they arrived at the
Harbour: That when they went to Northward; in about Lat. 55° 40´ off
the Islands, amongst which the Schooner had harboured the preceding
Night, some _Eskemaux_ came aboard, and told the _Dane_ Captain there
were some trading Boats come from the Northward, with Plenty of Trade,
and advised the Captain to come where they were. The Captain asked, Why
they would not come along Side? The _Eskemaux_ said, It was dangerous
on Account of the Surf. The Captain and six others went in the Ship's
Boat, with a Quantity of Goods to trade, but had no Fire Arms with
them, though advised to take them; but the Captain said, No, they were
very honest Fellows. Captain _Goff_ saw the Boat go round an Island,
upon which there was a Number of Natives; but the Island hindered him
from having any further Sight of the Boat. After the Boat had been gone
about an Hour, he saw one or two of the _Eskemaux_ with his Glass peep
over the Rocks; but never after saw any more of the Boat, the Snow's
People, or the _Eskemaux_. That the Snow lay at a League Distance from
the Island; he had no other Boat, one being left with the _Moravian_
Brethren. Capt. _Goff_ waited three Days, and then returned with the
Snow to the Harbour where the House was. The Snow being short of
Hands, he took the _Moravian_ Brethren aboard, leaving a Quantity of
Provisions sufficient to subsist the unhappy People who were missing
should they come there, until his Return. They put the Key of the House
and a Letter in a Hole of a Tree; but on his Return this Year found the
House in Ruins, the Casks and Hogsheads broke to Pieces, and the Key
and Letter gone. That what was sowed there was by Way of Experiment.
Capt. _Goff_ judged that the _Eskemaux_ traded with the _French_, as
their Fishgiggs, Knives, and Boats, were _French_; and the _Eskemaux_
told them there was a Settlement of twenty _Europeans_ to Southward,
which they supposed to be somewhere to Southward of Lat. 55, the
Latitude of the Cape they had named Cape _Harrison_, which is the
Southermost Cape that forms the Bay in which is _Nesbit_'s Harbour,
and the high Saddleback Land within, which is first seen off at Sea
they named _St. John_'s. He said that one of the _Eskemaux_ offered a
Quantity of Whalebone for a Cutlass, which they are very fond of; the
_Danish_ Captain insisted on having more, the _Eskemaux_ answered, If
he would not take it that Capt. _Saleroo_ would; alluding, as supposed,
to the Captain or Factor at the _French_ Settlement. The Boats the
_Eskemaux_ had were _French_: They spoke many _French_ Words. And the
Women worked the Boats, turned them to Windward, and were very expert
in the Management of them.
The Account given by the Master who went in the Schooner's Boat to
fish for Cod (Capt. _Goff_ not having yet got any) to the People in
the Boat was, That Mr. _Nesbit_ was only, in this Case, an Agent or
Factor for the _Moravian_ Brethren, who aimed at a Settlement in these
Parts, and to attain a Propriety by a prior Possession, but that no
Propriety would be allowed of by our Government: That Petitions had
been flung into the Board of Trade for Patents for the _Labrador_, but
were rejected, and a free Trade would be permitted to all the Subjects
of _Great Britain_; which open Trade was the original Design on which
this Discovery was undertaken by the People in _America_; the Execution
of which was not only interrupted by private Persons stealing the
Scheme, and being before hand, but hath been a great Hindrance to the
Fisheries being carried on in those Parts, a Trade established with
the inland _Indians_ and the _Eskemaux_, and further Advantages which
will be known, on our being better acquainted with those Parts. For as
to this Severity of the _Eskemaux_, inexcusably barbarous, yet there
were some Provocations which might have been avoided, and which incited
those _Eskemaux_ to this Act, whose Hatred and Revenge, the Character
of most _Indians_, are rouzed at the slightest Causes. It appears from
a Journal of the Boatswain, wherein he makes a Valuation of the Trade,
that they had bought a Hundred Weight of Whalebone for Six-pence. The
_Eskemaux_ were also treated with great Contempt and Rudeness. A Person
aboard had bought a Pair of _Eskemaux_ Boots; and carrying them into
his Cabbin, an _Eskemaux_ followed claiming the Boots as his, saying
that he who sold them had no Right to sell them; and the Buyer settled
the Matter by presenting a Pistol at his Head. On which the _Eskemaux_
cried out in the _French_, _Tout_, _Comerado_, and retired.