Arrival in Roumania.
Hardly three years had gone by since, in May 1866, Prince Charles had
undertaken the government of Roumania. Germany was then in a state
of excitement, the relations between Prussia and Austria being much
strained. Every day a declaration of war was imminent. Under these
circumstances the newly elected Prince of Roumania could only proceed
in disguise and incognito through the territory of the enemy. No one on
board the ship which had brought him down the Danube could have guessed
that their fellow-traveller, a modest and reserved young man, was the
scion of the house of Hohenzollern who had the courage to carry the
great mission of his house to the distant East. When the ship anchored
at Turnu Severin, the first town of Roumania, triumphal arches were
seen erected close to the banks of the river, men in gold-embroidered
uniforms, troops drawn up on parade, and a countless crowd of people.
All were awaiting the arrival of the ship in joyful expectation.
Prince Carol I. had been on board the ship. The endless cheers, the
rolling of drums and the braying of trumpets, were in his honour, as
he left the ship with his two companions and landed on Roumanian soil
for the first time. It was a historical moment of great importance. As
a thank-offering for the brilliant reception which he had received at
Turnu Severin, and as a memorial of that day, the Prince has built a
church there at his own expense.
Full of confidence in the future of Roumania, and inspired by an
earnest determination to exert a powerful influence on the fortunes of
the country committed to his charge, Prince Carol made his solemn entry
into Bucharest on the 22nd of May 1866. After taking the kingly oath
to the constitution laid before him by the chambers, the young Prince
addressed the assembled parliament in the following short but weighty
speech:--“In setting foot on the soil of this country I have become a
Roumanian. I know that great duties are required of me, but I hope to
fulfil them. I bring to my new country a true heart, loyal intentions,
a strong determination to uphold the right, a boundless devotion, and
that unswerving respect for the law which I have inherited from my
ancestors. A citizen to-day, to-morrow, if need be, a soldier, I shall
share with you from henceforth both good and evil days alike. Trust me
as I trust you. God only knows what the future has in store for our
country. In the meantime let us be unweary in the fulfilment of our
duties, and Providence, which has guided your chosen sovereign thus far
and cleared all difficulties from my path, will surely not leave her
work unaccomplished.”
Extraordinary difficulties met him at once in the beginning of his
reign. Russia regarded him with an unfriendly eye, Austria treated him
as an enemy, and Turkey found fault with all he did. Added to this the
lax discipline of the army, the untrustworthiness of the officials, low
finances, persecution of the Jews, and a crisis in the ministry! The
ruler of this land, thus shattered by the strife of parties, had need
of a firm will and unshaken confidence in the success of his enterprise
if he would restore it to order. But Prince Charles had undertaken
the position with a true sense of his heavy responsibilities. In a
very short time he realised the grave difficulties of the task. Every
affair of State or question of law, and even the practical affairs
of the country, were submitted to his careful judgment. Restlessly
active himself, he demanded much work and great perseverance from his
ministers. In order to understand the wants of the people and the
faults of the administration, Prince Charles constantly travelled
through the length and breadth of his country. With a discerning glance
he sought to find those men from amongst his subjects who combined a
knowledge of the affairs of their country with true patriotism. He
could consequently be assured of their help when he called them to his
side as councillors.
In order to unite Roumania with the rest of Europe new roads of
communication were opened, the teaching in church and school improved,
and the reforms in the army begun on a large scale. Prince Charles
steadily pursued his plans of reform, though his endeavours were
misconstrued by those who wished him ill, and he had often to face the
greatest difficulties because many of his ideas did not succeed at
once. He well knew that many years must go by before Roumania could be
radically improved, and that his reforms must be progressive and slow.
He awaited a time of lasting success with the wisdom and perseverance
of a true statesman. He might well say: “I stand here alone at this
distant post as sentry facing the East. And as a captain on a stormy
sea must stand by his ship by night and day, so must I keep watch and
ward.”
True to his oath, he identified himself with his people from the moment
that he undertook the government of the Danubian principalities. He had
done this with a high sense of duty and the conscientiousness of a true
German.
At the side of this man of lofty character, who had already made his
mark in the world, Princess Elizabeth was to enter her new home. On the
18th of November the young princely pair had left Neuwied. They stopped
at Pesth in order to visit the Emperor of Austria, and continued their
journey on the 21st amid the enthusiastic cheers of the Roumanians
settled at Pesth. A special train brought their Highnesses to Bazias,
where the Austrian steamer _Franz Josef_ awaited them. The banner of
Roumania waved at the high mast, the sailors manned the oars, and the
_Franz Josef_ steamed between the craggy rocks of the Danube towards
Roumania.
Thus they reached Alt-Orsova. The Czerna, or Black River, here joins
its waves to those of the Danube, and forms the boundary between
Austria and Roumania. The sentries of the frontier saluted, and the
inhabitants of the few slate-roofed houses shouted “Hurrah!” A rocky
island, with a half ruined fortress of New Orsova, stands further down
the Danube. The garrison presented arms, and three times the flag with
a half moon was lowered as a sign of greeting. Opposite New Orsova lies
Verzerova, the frontier town of Roumania. The so-called “borderers” had
arranged themselves in a long line along the shore. They were dressed
in long grey cloaks, and wore sandals, whilst their garments were
fastened together with leathern girdles and straps. On the column of
Trajan the Datians are represented in the same costume. The rolling of
drums, the braying of trumpets, and endless cheers greeted the ship,
which was then proceeding at slow speed. The princely pair stood on
deck and greeted the boundary of their country and their first subjects.
The Danube here winds its way through an immense wilderness. High and
almost perpendicular rocks enclose the mighty bed of the river, which
has many windings, and becomes narrower as it proceeds. Hardly has the
_Franz Josef_ passed the most dangerous of the eddies when the “Iron
Gateway” is reached. The banks of the river are opener here, and not so
much shut in by the rocks, but the roaring of the foaming waves tell
of a dangerously rocky bed which here stretches to the whole breadth
of the Danube for a long way. By degrees the country becomes less
desolate, the mountains more distant. Rich fields and vineyards abound,
and stately groups of houses, with glistening church towers rising
above them, become visible.
It is Turnu Severin. The town, with its harbour, looks very pretty
as the ship approaches. The ships that lie at anchor are bright with
flags. Roumania’s vessels of war, _Romania_ and _Stephen Cel Mar_, are
among them. The steep banks of the river were crowded with people.
Endless cheers resounded as the _Franz Josef_ neared the land. The
soldiers on board the _Stephen Cel Mar_ saluted, whilst the troops
drawn up on shore presented arms. Cannons roared, and the solemn tones
of the Roumanian National Hymn were heard. On the 22nd of November
(the birthday of her lost brother) Princess Elizabeth, leaning on the
arm of her husband, first set foot on Roumanian soil. She was received
by well-dressed ladies carrying bouquets, the Prime Minister, Prince
Ghica, and the Prefect and officials of the town. The national offering
of bread and salt was presented on a silver salver decorated with
flowers, and the keys of the town were presented to the young Princess.
Amidst the cheering of the people and the tolling of bells the Prince
and Princess drove to the church. Here a _Te Deum_ was first sung,
and then priests and people on their knees invoked the blessing of the
Almighty on the sovereign pair.
According to an ancient custom of the Greek Church, a book of the
gospels and the cross richly ornamented with jewels was brought to
them to kiss after the service. Then followed a great reception at the
Town Hall, at which the officials of neighbouring districts appeared
in their picturesque national costumes. After this the princely pair
returned to the ship, whilst the enthusiastic people rushed after the
carriage, which was covered with flowers. Citizens and people waving
their caps in the air shouted “Hurrah!” and “Se treasca marüle Cor!”
(Long life to your Highnesses!)
After this the Roumanian steamers accompanied the _Franz Josef_.
Deputations waited at every village they passed, and a reception was
everywhere accorded them. Sometimes their progress was hindered by a
thick fog. Then the _Romania_ and the _Stephen Cel Mar_ neared the
_Franz Josef_, and the bands they had on board played lively airs till
the rays of the sun dispersed the mists and they could proceed on their
way. They reached Giurgevo, the capital of the district Vlaska. Here
the princely pair landed, greeted again by the sound of the National
Anthem and the enthusiastic cheering of the crowd. Under a richly
decorated triumphal arch the officials of the district of Vlaska
did homage to the Princess, and the town of Giurgevo besought her
graciously to accept a cart of Roumanian soil as her own. A carriage
drawn by eight horses, which were ridden by postillions in national
costume, here awaited their Highnesses. Peasants in their richest
dress rode on either side of the carriage. Each one carried a fir-tree
decorated with gilded apples and glittering chains of gold tinsel. This
is the emblem of a Roumanian wedding which must never be wanting at
such ceremonies. According to Roumanian custom the princely carriage
with its picturesque suite was taken at a gallop through the streets
towards the station, pursued by the crowd, who were cheering excitedly.
At the station there was another official reception, at which the Pacha
of Rustschuk had also appeared.
A special train was in readiness. It was the first railway that
had been built on Roumanian territory, the first time that the
Prince proceeded by rail from Giurgevo to Bucharest. They were now
travelling through the great plain of Wallachia. The inhabitants of
the neighbourhood had assembled along the route and at the stations to
welcome the sovereign pair.
In an intense heat as of summer, at one o’clock on the afternoon of
the 25th of November, the train neared the capital of Roumania. The
station is built upon a little height to the south of the town, from
whence there is a view over a landscape of oriental beauty. Bucharest
is spread over undulating valleys on two sides of the Dimbovitza,
and one looks down upon a multitude of bright-coloured houses. The
lead-covered domes of the three hundred and sixty churches shine among
the groups of trees as if they were of silver. Upon a hill in the
centre of the town stands the white Metropolia, which towers above all.
On the day of the public entry many bright flags waved from its bright
towers. Amidst the green gardens rise the palaces of the “Boyards,”
with their roofs of lead, galleries, arched passages, staircases, and
small columns, a curious mixture of Byzantine style and Turkish form.
The more distant houses seem to disappear in a haze of blue. The dark
chain of the Carpathians arises in the background, abruptly ending
with the snow-capped peaks of the Bucegi. Those who first look down
upon this oriental world must necessarily be struck by its curious
and fantastic appearance. Princess Elizabeth, with her enthusiastic,
artistic nature, “was quite enchanted at the gorgeous colouring of the
picture which here met her view.”
In the great hall of the station the infantry and National Guard had
been drawn up with their regimental band and flags. All the Ministers
and Prefects were present at the reception. Cantacuzeno, the Mayor
of Bucharest, greeted their Highnesses in the name of the town with
the usual bread and salt. A deputation of ladies of the aristocracy
presented the Princess with a nosegay in a golden handle studded with
diamonds. The representatives of the Guilds, with their emblems and
flags, as well as numerous bearers of fir-trees glittering with gold,
were waiting outside the station. The military formed a line to the
town. The multitudes of Roumanians who, attired in their Sunday best,
crowded the streets, houses, and balconies, in order to welcome the
young Princess on her entry, were not to be numbered.
Amidst the thundering of the cannons, the pealing of the bells of all
the churches, the strains of the National Anthem, and whilst the troops
were presenting arms, and the crowds cheering enthusiastically, the
procession, which was opened by the bearers of the fir-trees, wound
its way up to the Metropolia. The clergy, assembled in large numbers,
received the princely pair at the door of the church. At their head was
the much-respected Metropolitan of Bucharest, the Primate of Roumania.
His garment of cloth of gold surrounded him in stiff folds. Upon his
head was a mitre glittering with precious stones, and he bore the
bishop’s staff, encircled by a serpent, in his hand. The Metropolitan
of Jassy stood beside him, and in a large half circle round were the
bishops of the different dioceses--magnificent figures with flowing
beards and garments of gold brocade. Further off many clergy of lower
rank had been placed.
Through a large entrance hall erected for this ceremony their
Highnesses entered the centre of the church, under whose huge dome two
magnificently carved thrones had been prepared for them. The _Te Deum_
had been sung by the choir of priests, then the Metropolitan read the
Gospel for the day in solemn tones, and in an unbroken stillness the
congregation listened to the words of Holy Writ.
A song of praise resounded once more, and then Prince Charles descended
the steps of the throne with his bride, and proceeding to the high
altar, knelt before the Metropolitans, who offered them the Cross and
the Book of the Gospels to kiss. The high wax candles, and the eternal
lamps before the pictures of the saints, could only shed a soft light
through the immense church. But the sun stole through the small stone
windows and magically lighted up this interesting and pompous scene,
during which the young German princely pair was surrounded by the pomp
and magnificence of the oriental priesthood and initiated into its
mysteries.
The ceremony in the church was ended. Opposite to the entrance to the
church steps led up to a large platform which had been erected. Two
thrones were placed there under a rich daïs of purple. Forty young
couples had received their marriage outfit from Prince Charles in
honour of the occasion, and were to be married on that day. In the
Green Hall, on both sides of the way that their Highnesses must pass,
stood the brown-eyed maidens in bridal array, their masses of black
hair covered with hanging golden threads, which are the badge of the
Wallachian bride. The princely pair were conducted to their thrones by
a long procession formed by the clergy, the ministers and ladies in
waiting, cavaliers, senators, deputations, the diplomatic corps, &c.
Here the marriage contract was brought to them on a red velvet cushion,
and was confirmed by their signature. In a clear voice, which could be
heard at a distance, Prince Charles then made a short speech to his
subjects, after which the pealing of bells and the thunder of cannon
announced to the Roumanian people that the Mayor of Bucharest had
inscribed the marriage in the registers of the town.
Martial music now resounded, and a procession of carriages was
arranged, which moved slowly towards the castle amidst the joyous
cheers of the crowd. Of endless variety were the types of the assembled
multitude. The national costumes, which the people of Roumania have
preserved intact, were gorgeous in colour and brilliancy. The fine
type of the women, with their glittering bodices, their wulinks or
aprons adorned with bright embroidery and little plates of metal, their
veils and sandals, made up a fine picture. Then the men with their
round fur caps over their black eyes, their bronzed faces surrounded
with dark curls, a jacket of sheep’s skin embroidered with flowers and
geometrical figures over their shoulders, and a long garment beneath,
the adornment of which was primitive. Amongst these picturesque groups
were Wallachian Jews in furs, and beggars in rags and tatters.
All these made up a peculiarly picturesque scene, and all eyes were
riveted on the graceful presence of their young Princess.
In the throne room of the palace a deputation of the ladies of
Bucharest presented the Princess with an offering from the town. It
consisted of a costly diadem of pearls and diamonds, and a beautifully
and artistically embroidered national costume. This was the close of
the official reception.
When the twilight was fading into darkness the houses of Bucharest
were illuminated with many colours. There was a gala representation at
the theatre. Allegoric groups with reference to the princely pair were
arranged on the stage, and an “Oda da Elisabeta” had been composed for
the occasion. So ended this festive day, which had been enhanced by the
most beautiful weather, and during which everything had gone off to
perfection.
When Princess Elizabeth was leaving her old home they had called after
her--“May your entrance into Roumania also be an entrance into the
hearts of your people.” This prophetic hope has been amply fulfilled.
By her simplicity and her amiable manners, as well as by her winning
voice and charming appearance, Princess Elizabeth took all hearts
by storm on her arrival in Roumania. The expectant people felt at
once that this was a Princess who could understand and relieve their
distress. And they were not mistaken in their judgment, for Princess
Elizabeth has become a mother to her country in the fullest sense of
the word.
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