CHAPTER IX.

PRINCIPLES OF JOINERY.[11]

[Footnote 11: Professor Rankine's Five Principles:

1. To cut the joints and arrange the fastenings so as to weaken the

pieces of timber they connect as little as possible.

2. To place each abutting surface in a joint as nearly as possible

perpendicular to the pressure which it has to transmit.

3. To proportion the area of each surface to the pressure which it

has to bear so that the timber may be safe against injury under the

heaviest load which occurs in practice, and to form and fit every

pair of such surfaces accurately in order to distribute the stress

uniformly.

4. To proportion the fastenings so that they may be of equal

strength with the pieces which they connect.

5. To place the fastenings in each piece of timber so that there

shall be sufficient resistance to the giving way of the joint by

the fastenings shearing or crushing their way thru the timber.]

1. _Avoid multiplication of errors by making all measurements (as far

as possible) from a common starting point, and laying off all angles

from the same line or surface._ Illustrations of this principle are

as follows: Before proceeding with other processes, a working face and

working edge and as many other surfaces as will finally appear in

the finished piece, should be trued up. At least the working face

and working edge are essential to the proper "lay-out" of the piece,

whenever measurements are made from an edge.

In laying out a series of measurements, it is important, when

possible, that the rule be laid down once for all, and the additions

be made on that, rather than that the rule should be moved along for

each new member of the series.

In scoring around a board with knife and try-square, the head of the

try-square should be held against the working face in scoring both

edges, and against the working edge in scoring both faces, and not

passed from one surface to another in succession.

In the laying out of a halved joint, Fig. 265, Nos. 15-19, p. 178, the

gaging is all done from what will be one of the flush surfaces of the

joined pieces. Then, if the gaged line should be slightly more or less

than half the thickness of the pieces the closeness of the joint would

not be affected.

2. _When possible, in laying out a joint, use the method of

superposition._ Fig. 302. By this is meant the method by which the

lay-out of one member is obtained directly from the other by laying

(superposing) the latter on the former and marking or scribing the

needed dimensions directly, instead of by measurement. It has the

advantages of simplicity, speed, and greater probability of fit.

[Illustration: Fig. 302. Marking by Superposition.]

Familiar illustrations are in the making of halved joints, Fig. 265,

Nos. 15-19, p. 178, dovetail joints, Fig. 267, Nos. 42-45, p. 180, and

scarfed or spliced joints, Fig. 264, Nos. 4-7, p. 177.

3. _Work systematically._ In case the same process is to be repeated

on a number of parts, complete this process in all before taking

up another process. This is the principle of the division of labor

applied to the individual workman.

In laying out duplicate or multiple parts, the proper cross

measurements should be carefully laid out on one piece and then

transferred with a try-square to the other parts laid accurately

beside it. So when a number of like pieces are to be gaged, all the

parts requiring the same setting should be gaged before the gage is

reset for another gaging. This is a great saving of time and insures

accuracy.

In making a number of like parts, if they are not too large much

of the work can often be done in one piece before it is cut up. For

example, to make a number of slats from a given piece of wood, the

piece may first be brought to such dimensions that the length will

be correct for the finished pieces and the thickness of the piece be

equal to the width of the slats, Fig. 303. The face may then be gaged

with a series of lines so that every other space will be equal to

the required thickness of each slat, and the alternate spaces be just

sufficient for the saw kerf and dressing. The slats may then be ripped

apart and dressed to size.

[Illustration: Fig. 303. Making a Number of Like Pieces from a Given

Piece.]

Or a long strip may be planed to thickness and width and then be

sawn up and finished to the proper lengths. For example, in a mitered

picture-frame it may be convenient to plane up two pieces, each one

long enough to make one long side and one short side.

In fitting up framed structures each part when fitted should be

distinctly marked, so that there may be no confusion in assembling.

4. _Where practicable secure the same conditions of grain in different

elements of joined structures._

Illustrations of this are as follows: The grain of the sides of a box

should run continuously around the box, or, in the case of a tall,

slim box, the grain of all the sides should run up and down. In either

case, the grain in the different sides is parallel. In a rubbed joint,

Fig. 269, No. 70, p. 182, to be planed down afterward, in case the

grain is not straight, much trouble in planing may be saved if the

different pieces are laid so that they can all be planed smooth in the

same direction. This may not be possible where the boards are joined

so as to match the grain, as in quartered oak, or where the annual

rings of slash boards are made to alternate in direction so as to

lessen warping, Fig. 280, p. 188.

5. _Where possible, allow for shrinkage without prejudice to

construction._

The most obvious illustration of this principle is panel construction.

In a panel, the frame, which is comparatively narrow, follows the

principal dimensions, and hence does not seriously shrink or swell

itself. But the panel, which is grooved into the frame can shrink or

swell without harm to the general structure.

In a gained joint, as in a case of shelves, Fig. 266, No. 29, p. 179,

the gain in the uprights does not extend quite to the front of the

shelves, and there is a corresponding slight shoulder at the front end

of the shelf, so that if the shelf and support shrink unevenly, no gap

will be apparent.

A drawing-board, Fig. 280, p. 188, is so made that it can shrink or

swell without losing its flatness. Shingles when properly laid, can

shrink or swell without the roof leaking.

6. _Where feasible, undercut joined surfaces so as to give clearance

on the inside and insure a tight appearance. But glued surfaces should

be made to meet flat._

Illustrations of this principle are as follows: The inner end of the

socket in a dovetail joint, Fig. 267, No. 48, p. 180, may be undercut

slightly so as to insure the pin's falling close into place.

The shoulder of any tenon may be undercut so as to allow the edges of

the tenoned piece to close up tight against the mortised piece.

In an end-lap halved joint, Fig. 265, No. 17, p. 178, the edges should

meet all around; if they are to be glued together, they should _not_

be undercut or they will not glue well.

In matched flooring, the underside of the boards is slightly narrower

than the upper side so that the joint may close on the upper side

without fail, Fig. 301, p. 199. The ends of flooring boards are also

slightly beveled so as to make a tight fit on the upper side.

7. _Select the simplest form of joint and use the smallest number of

abutments (bearing surfaces) possible, because the more complicated

the joint or the greater the number of bearing surfaces, the less

likelihood there is of a sound and inexpensive construction._

Illustrations of this principle are as follows: Usually a single

mortise-and-tenon joint is better than a double one because of

simplicity, strength and ease of making. Where much surface is

required for gluing, a double one may be better.

In a dovetail dado, Fig. 266, No. 28, p. 179, it is usually sufficient

to make the dovetail on one side only.

Many very elaborately spliced joints have been devised, which have no

practical advantage over the simple ones, Fig. 264, Nos. 4-7, p. 177.

A butt joint, Fig. 264, No. 11, is stronger than a mitered joint, Fig.

268, No. 52, in a box, for the latter is almost sure to shrink

apart. Where appearance is important, a ledge and miter joint has the

advantage of both, Fig. 268, No. 58.

8. _Keep a due proportion of strength between the fastenings (joints)

and the pieces fastened: i. e., the construction should neither be

frail on the one hand, because the pieces of wood are weakened by

too much cutting, nor clumsy, on the other hand, because then the

fastenings would be inordinately strong. In other words, the different

parts should be equally strong._

Illustrations of this principle are as follows: In a fished joint,

Fig. 264, No. 2, the plate should be attached so as to reinforce the

splice at the weakest point.

In a scarf joint, Fig. 264, Nos. 5 and 7, the angle should be oblique

enough to give the greatest leverage.

In a tusk tenon, Fig. 267, No. 40, the tenon is made but one-sixth the

thickness of the timber, whereas the tusk is made much larger.

Where a mortise is to be cut in a timber bearing weight, it should be

cut in the neutral axis, where the cutting of fibres will weaken it

least.

In the mortise-and-tenon of a table-rail, Fig. 267, No. 43, there

should be a wide shoulder above the tenon of the rail so that the top

of the leg above the mortise will not shear out. The mortise should be

as near the outside of the leg as possible so that the inner corner of

the leg may remain strong. The tenon should be strong enough to share

the strain with the shoulders.

A dado joint, Fig. 266, No. 25, should not be so deep as to weaken the

supporting board.

A tenon should not be so large as to weaken the mortised piece.

Pins or other fastenings, Fig. 267, Nos. 38 and 39, may weaken rather

than strengthen a joint if they are so placed or are so large as to

shear or crush their way thru the timber.

9. _Place each abutting surface in a joint as nearly as possible

perpendicular to the pressure which it has to transmit._

Illustrations of this principle are as follows: the angle in a strut

joint, Fig. 266, No. 62, should be equally divided between the two

beams.

The thrust joint, Fig. 268, No. 63, in a bridge truss, is exactly at

right angles to the pressure.

It is on account of this principle that a spliced joint for

compression, Fig. 264, No. 4, is different from a spliced joint for

tension, No. 5; and that a housed braced joint, Fig. 269, No. 66, is

better than a plain braced joint, No. 65.

A joint to resist vertical cross strain is stronger when scarfed

vertically than horizontally.

THE PRINCIPLES OF JOINERY

REFERENCES:[*]

Goss, p. 132.

Adams, p. 12.

Rivington, Vol. I, p. 57.

[Footnote *: For general bibliography see p. 4.]

Handwork in Wood · 第 6 / 7 章