EQUIPMENT AND CARE OF THE SHOP.
_Tool equipment._ The choice of tools in any particular shop best
comes out of long experience. Some teachers prefer to emphasize
certain processes or methods, others lay stress on different ones.
The following tentative list is suggested for a full equipment for
twenty-four students. One bench and its tools may be added for the
teacher.
The prices given are quoted from Discount Sheet No. 1 for Catalogue of
Tools, No. 355 issued by Hammacher, Schlemmer & Co., Fourth Avenue and
13th Street, New York City, dated 1908, and are correct at the present
date (1910). Aggregate orders, however, are always subject to special
concessions, and it is suggested that before ordering the purchaser
submit a list of specifications for which special figures will be
quoted.
There are good benches, vises, and tools of other makes on the market,
but those specified below are typical good ones.
Following are two equipments for classes of twenty-four pupils, one
severely economical to cost approximately $400, and the other more
elaborate to cost approximately $750.
$400 TOOL EQUIPMENT.
INDIVIDUAL TOOLS.
24 Manual Training School Benches, H. & S. "L," @ $8.50. $204.00
24 Stanley Jack-Planes, No. 5, 14", @ $1.74 each. 41.76
24 Disston's Back-Saws, No. 4, 10", @ 93c each. 22.32
12 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, No. 2, 1/4", handled and sharpened. 2.21
12 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, No. 2, 1/2", handled and sharpened. 2.68
24 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, No. 2, 1", handled and sharpened. 7.31
24 Sloyd Knives, No. 7, 2-1/2". 6.50
12 Hammond's Adze-eye Claw-Hammer, No. 3, 7 oz. 4.90
24 Try-squares, No. 5-1/2, 6". 5.32
24 Beech Marking-Gages, No. 64-1/2. 4.86
24 Boxwood Rules, No. 3, 12" long. 1.80
12 Faber's Measuring Compass, No. 1752. 1.50
12 Bench-Hooks. 2.00
12 Bench-Dusters, No. 10. 2.70
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Total for individual tools. $309.86
GENERAL TOOLS
6 Disston's Crosscut-Saws, No. 7, 22", 10 points. $6.75
6 Disston's Rip-Saws, No. 7, 22", 8 points. 6.75
2 Turning-Saws in frames, 14", M. F. & Co. 1.74
1 Dozen Turning-Saw Blades, 14", H. S. & Co. 1.06
1 Hack-Saw Frame, No. 50. .45
1 Disston's Dovetail-Saw, 6", iron back. .48
1 Stanley Miter-Box, No. 240. 8.20
2 Stanley Block-Planes, No. 65-1/2. 1.56
1 Stanley Fore-Plane, No. 6. 2.22
1 Stanley Rabbet-Plane and Filletster, No. 78. 1.10
1 Stanley "Bed Rock" Plane, No. 603. 1.58
6 Iron Spokeshaves, No. 54. 1.42
1 Veneer-Scraper, No. 80. .70
6 Each Molding-Scrapers, No. 2 and No. 7. .90
1 Scraper Steel, Richardson's. .10
3 Flat Bastard Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .45
3 Half-Round Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .55
3 Rat-tail Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .33
4 Files, K. & F., 6", slim taper. .36
1 Auger-Bit-File. .13
1 File-Card, No. 1. .14
1 Empire Tool-Grinder. 2.80
1 Grindstone, No. 11, with stone. 15.00
1 India Oilstone, No. 0, in box. .95
1 Soft Arkansas Oil Slipstone, No. 6. .18
1 Copperized Steel Oiler, No. 14A, 1/2 pint. .23
2 Disston's Sliding T Bevel, No. 3, 6". .46
1 Stanley Miter-Square, No. 16, 10". .60
1 Sargent Steel Square, No. 2. .69
1 Pair Starrett's Winged Dividers, No. 92, 8". .75
1 Chisel, No. 2, 1/8", handled. .20
3 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Gouges, No. 8, 1". 1.29
1 Buck Brothers' Gouge, No. 10, inside bevel, regular sweep, 3/4". .43
4 Barber's Braces, No. 14, 6" sweep. 3.52
1 Barber's Ratchet-Brace, No. 31, 12" sweep. 1.62
5 Gimlet-Bits, 1 each of 2/32", 3/32", 4/32", 5/32", 6/32". .40
1 Set Auger-Bits, R. Jennings'. 4.46
1 Clark's Expansive-Bit, small. .57
2 Screwdriver-Bits, 1/2", round blade, No. 10, 4". .32
3 Rose Countersinks, No. 10, 5/8". .68
6 Brad-Awls, assorted 1"-1-1/2". .30
1 Hand-Drill, No. 5-1/2. 2.45
Extra Drills, 2 each of No. 107, size, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40,
45, 50, 55, 60. 1.42
6 New Century Screwdrivers, 4". .96
1 New Century Screwdriver, 12". .54
6 O. K. Nailsets, assorted. .42
6 Carpenter's Steel Bar Clamps, 3 ft. 9.60
12 Aldrich's Oiled Handscrews, No. 16, 10". 4.79
12 Aldrich's Oiled Handscrews, No. 17-1/2, 6". 3.42
4 Carriage-Maker's Clamps, 6". 1.32
1 Automatic Miter-Clamp. 1.80
1 Pair Pliers, No. 200, 5". .21
1 Coe's Monkey-Wrench, 10". .60
1 Glue-Pot, No. 3. .82
1 Parker's Wood-working Vise, No. 276. 8.07
1 Gas Stove, 99A. .55
1 Pair End-Cutting Nippers, No. 154, 5". .88
1 Glass-Cutter, No. 10. .27
3 Flat Varnish Brushes, No. 54, 1-1/2", hard-rubber-bound
(for shellac). .96
6 Cheap Brushes, 1", tin-bound (for stains), "EE". .90
6 Extra Jack-Plane Cutters (No. 5). 1.80
6 Enamel Cups, 1/2 pint. .60
1 Maple Yard-Stick, No. 41. .17
-------
Total for general tools. $114.97
Total for individual tools. 309.86
-------
$424.83
Discount for schools, 10 per cent. 42.48
-------
$382.35
Lockers for individual work. $150.00
$750 TOOL EQUIPMENT
INCLUDING 1 BENCH AND SET OF TOOLS FOR INSTRUCTOR AND INDIVIDUAL TOOLS
25 Manual Training School Benches, Hammacher, Schlemmer & Co.'s
"J" with Toles' quick-acting Vise on side, @ $20. $500.00
25 Stanley Jack-Planes, No. 5, 14", @ $1.74 each. 43.50
25 Disston's Back-Saws, No. 4, 10", @ 93c each. 23.25
25 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, 1/4", handled and sharpened,
@ $2.21 doz. 4.61
25 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, 1/2", handled and sharpened,
@ $2.68 doz. 5.58
25 Buck Brothers' Firmer-Chisels, 1", handled and sharpened, @ $3.65 7.61
30 Sloyd Knives, No. 7, 2-1/2" blade (6 extra) @ $3.25 doz. 8.12
25 Hammond's Adze-eye Hammers, No. 3, 7 oz., @ $4.90 doz. 10.21
25 Round Hickory Mallets, No. 4, @ $1.40 doz. 2.91
25 Hardened Blade Try-Squares, No. 5-1/2, 6", @ $2.66 doz. 5.57
25 Beech Marking-Gages, No. 64-1/2, 8", @ $2.43 doz. 5.07
25 Steel Bench-Rules, No. 300D, @ $4.80 doz. 10.00
36 Faber's Measuring Compass, No. 1752 (12 extra). 4.50
25 Maple Bench-Hooks, @ $2.00 doz. 4.18
25 Bench-Dusters, No. 10, @ $2.70 doz. 5.63
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Total for individual tools. $640.74
GENERAL TOOLS
6 Disston's Crosscut-Saws, No. 7, 22", 10 points. $ 6.75
6 Disston's Rip-Saws, No. 7, 22", 8 points. 6.75
4 Turning-Saws in frames, 14". 3.48
1 Doz. Turning-Saw Blades, 14". 1.06
1 Compass-Saw, Disston's No. 2, 10". .27
1 Stanley Miter-Box, No. 240. 8.20
1 Disston's Dovetail-Saw, 6", iron back. .48
2 Coping-Saws, No. 110. .40
1 Gross Coping-Saw Blades, 6". 1.00
6 Stanley Block-Planes, No. 65-1/2. 4.68
1 Stanley Fore-Plane, No. 6. 2.22
1 Stanley Rabbet-Plane and Filletster, No. 78. 1.10
2 Stanley's "Bed Rock" Smooth-Planes, No. 603 or 3.16
Sargent's Adjustable-Frog Smooth-Plane.
12 Extra Jack-Plane Cutters (No. 5), 2". 3.60
1 Stanley Beading Rabbet, and Matching Plane, No. 45. 5.85
1 Stanley Router-Plane, No. 71. 1.37
6 Iron Spokeshaves, No. 54. 1.42
6 Pattern-Makers' Spokeshaves, applewood, small, 1-1/2". 1.52
2 Drawing-Knives, White's No. 31, 6". 1.60
1 Stanley Adjustable Scraper-Plane, No. 112, with toothing cutter. 1.43
1 Veneer-Scraper, No. 80. .70
3 Each Molding-Scrapers, No. 2, No. 7. .45
2 Dowel-Pointers, No. 1. .60
1 Dowel-Plate. .30
1 Scraper Steel, Richardson's. .10
1 Iron Screw-Box, French, 3/8". 1.80
4 Flat Bastard Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .60
4 Half-Round Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .72
4 Rat-tail Files, K. & F., 8", handled. .44
4 Files, 6", slim taper. .36
2 Auger-Bit-Files. .25
1 File-Card, No. 1. .14
1 Empire Tool-Grinder. 2.80
1 Grindstone, No. 11, (iron frame and stone). 15.00
2 India Oilstones, No. 29 (medium), in iron box. 1.34
1 Soft Arkansas Oil Slipstone, No. 6. .18
2 Copperized Steel Oilers, 14A, 1/2 pint. .46
6 Disston's Sliding T Bevels, No. 3, 6". 1.38
1 Stanley Miter-Square, No. 16, 10". .60
1 Sargent Steel Square, No. 2. .60
2 Pairs Dividers, Starrett's winged, No. 92, 8". 1.50
3 Scratch-Awls, Collier's, 4". .33
1 Pair Trammel-Points, No. 1. .74
1 Try-Square, No. 5-1/2, 12", hardened blade. .52
1 Mortise-Gage, No. 77. .55
1 Cutting-Gage, No. 70. .17
3 Each Firmer-Chisels, Buck Bros.' No. 2, handled and sharpened;
1/16", 1/8", 3/16", 3/8", 3/4", 1-1/2". 4.42
3 Each outside-Bevel Gouges, Buck Bros.' Firmer, No. 8 handled
and sharpened: 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1". 3.55
3 Addis' Carving-Tools, round maple handles, No. 11, 5/32". .96
3 Addis' Veining-Tools, round maple handles, No. 11, 1/16". .96
3 Inside-Bevel Gouges, regular sweep, No. 10, 3/4". 1.29
6 Barber's Nickel-Plated Braces, No. 14, 6" sweep. 5.25
1 Barber's Ratchet-Brace, No. 31, 12" sweep. 1.62
3 Each German Gimlet-Bits, 2/32", 3/32", 4/32", 5/32", 6/32". 1.00
3 Each Russell Jennings' Auger-Bits, 3/16", 4/16", 5/16", 6/16",
7/16", 8/16". 4.18
2 Each Russell Jennings' Auger-Bits, genuine, 10/16", 11/16",
12/16", 13/16", 14/16", 15/16", 16/16". 6.19
1 Each Foerstner's Auger-Bits, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2". 1.79
1 Clark's Expansive-Bit, 1/2" to 1-1/2". .57
3 Buck Bros.' Rose Countersinks, No. 10, 5/8". .78
1 Washer-Cutter, No. 350. .65
1 Plug-Cutter, 3/8". .32
2 Screwdriver-Bits, 1/2", round blade, 4" long. .32
4 Each Brad-Awls, handled, 1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2". .60
6 New Century Screwdrivers, 4". .96
1 New Century Screwdriver, 12". .54
1 New Century Screwdriver, 8". .36
1 New Century Screwdriver, 3-1/2", slim. .16
1 Dowel-Plate, cast steel. .30
6 O.K. Nailsets, assorted 1/16", 3/32", 1/8". .42
6 Carpenter Steel Bar Clamps, 3 ft. 9.60
2 Carpenter Steel Bar Clamps, 5 ft. 3.60
12 Aldrich's Oiled Handscrews, No. 16, 10". 4.79
12 Aldrich's Oiled Handscrews, No. 17-1/2, 6". 3.42
4 Carriage-Makers' Clamps, 6". 1.32
1 Automatic Miter-Clamp. 1.80
2 Doz. Acme Pinch-Dogs, 3/4". .30
1 Glue-Pot, No. 3. .82
1 Gas Stove, No. 99A. .55
1 Coe's Monkey-Wrench, 10". .60
1 Glass-Cutter, No. 10. .27
6 Flat Varnish Brushes No. 54. 1-1/2", hard-rubber-bound
(for shellac). 1.58
12 Cheap Brushes, tin-bound, (for stains), EE, 1". 1.80
6 Enameled Cups, 1/2 pint. .60
1 Maple Yard-Stick, No. 41. .17
1 Pair Blackboard Compasses or Dividers. 1.50
1 Blackboard Triangle, 45°. .50
1 Blackboard Triangle, 30°×60°. .50
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Total for general tools. $189.83
METAL WORKING TOOLS
1 Bench, No. 1, without vises. $ 8.00
1 Parker's Wood-working Vise, No. 276. 8.07
1 Hand-Vise, No. 1230-1/2, 4". .54
1 Hay-Budden Anvil, 10 lb. 3.07
1 Riveting-Hammer, Atha, 4 oz. .32
1 Rivet-Set, No. 4. .27
1 Cold-Chisel, 3/8" cutting edge. .11
1 Cold-Chisel, 5/8" cutting edge. .15
1 Cape-Chisel, 3/8" cutting edge. .13
1 Round-nosed Chisel, 3/8". .13
1 Pair End-Cutting Nippers, No. 154, 5". .88
1 Pair Compton's Metal Snips, No. 12, 2". .63
2 Pair Flat-nose Pliers, No. 1806-1/2, 5". .58
1 Die-Holder, No. 11. .32
1 Die, 5/8"×1/4", 6/32". .27
1 Hand-Drill, No. 5-1/2. 2.45
Extra Drills, Morse's No. 107, 2 each, Nos. 10, 15, 20, 25, 30,
35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60. 1.42
1 Metal Countersink, No. 15, 5/8". .18
1 Hack-Saw Frame, No. 50. .45
6 Hack-Saw Blades, 8", H. S. & Co. .25
1 Melting Ladle, 3". .19
1 Soldering Copper, 1 lb. .31
1 Mill Bastard File, 8", 1 safe edge, handled.}
1 Mill Smooth File, 6", handled. }
1 Square Bastard File, 8", handled. }
1 Half-round Bastard File, 8", handled. }
1 Slim Taper Saw-File, 6", handled. }
1 Round Bastard File, 4", handled. } .85
1 Atha Machinist's Hammer, Ball-peen, 6 oz. .38
------
Total for metal working tools. $29.95
Glue and Stain Bench. $ 15.00
Lockers for individual work for 360 pupils. 360.00
Nail and Screw Cabinet. 35.00
-------
$410.00
Individual Tools. $640.74
General Tools. 189.83
-------
$830.57
Discount for schools, 10 per cent. 83.06
-------
$747.51
Cabinets, lockers, etc. 410.00
---------
$1,157.51
THE CARE OF THE WOODWORKING SHOP
_The general arrangement of the room._ The important factors are
the source or sources of light, and the lines of travel. The common
arrangement of benches where two sides of the room are lighted, is
shown in _a_, Fig. 238. By this arrangement, as each worker faces his
bench, he also faces one set of windows and has another set of windows
at his left. The advantage of this arrangement is that it is easy to
test one's work with the try-square by lifting it up to the light.
Another arrangement, shown in _b_, Fig. 238, has this advantage, that
there are no shadows on the work when it is lying on the bench and
the worker is holding his rule or try-square on it with his left hand.
When all the windows are on one side of the room the latter is the
more advantageous arrangement.
In determining the position of the benches, especially with reference
to their distance from each other, thought should be given to the
general lines of travel, from the individual benches to the general
tool-rack, to the finishing-table, to the lockers, etc. Even if all
the aisles cannot be wide enough both for passage and for work, one
wider one thru the center of the room may solve the difficulty. Where
rooms are crowded, space may be economized by placing the benches in
pairs, back to back, _c_ and _d_, Fig. 238. In any case, room should
always be reserved for a tier of demonstration seats, facing the
teacher's bench, for the sake of making it easy for the pupils to
listen and to think.
[Illustration: Fig. 238. Four Different Arrangements of Benches in a
Shop.]
_The Tools._ Every shop soon has its own traditions as to the
arrangement of tools, but there are two principles always worth
observing. (1) It is an old saying that there should be "a place for
everything and everything in its place." This is eminently true of a
well-ordered woodworking shop, and there is another principle just as
important. (2) Things of the same sort should be arranged together,
and arranged by sizes, whether they be general tools or individual
tools. In arranging the rack for general tools, a few suggestions are
offered. In the first place, arrange them so that there will be no
danger of cutting one's fingers on one tool when attempting to take
down another. Where the rack must needs be high, all the tools can be
brought within reach, by placing long tools, like files, screwdrivers,
etc., at the top. Such an arrangement is shown in Fig. 239.
As to the individual benches, those without high backs are to be
preferred, not only because of their convenience when it is desired
to work on large pieces, like table tops, and because the backs do not
interfere with the light, but because it is easier for the teacher
to look over the room to see that everything is in order. If the
equipment is kept complete, it is an easy matter to glance over all
the benches and the general rack to see that everything is in place.
[Illustration: Fig. 239. General Tool rack in a School Shop.]
In general, there are two methods of keeping guard over tools, the
open and the closed. In the open method, everything is kept in sight
so that empty places can be discovered readily. This method is a
convenient one, and, besides, the tools are always easily accessible.
In the closed method, the tools are kept in drawers and cases where
they can be locked up. This method is suitable where pupils are
equipped with individual sets of cutting tools. In such a case, the
common tools for each bench are kept in a common drawer and individual
pupils' tools in separate drawers. This method has the disadvantage
that things are out of sight, and if they disappear their loss may not
be discovered immediately. On the other hand, where the drawers and
cases are kept carefully locked, the danger of loss is reduced almost
to a minimum. Sometimes a combination of both methods is tried,
the tools being kept in unlocked drawers. This method furnishes the
greatest difficulty in keeping tools from disappearing.
[Illustration: Fig. 240. Nail and Screw Cabinet.]
Even when tools are well arranged, one of the most serious
difficulties in the way of shop order, is to keep tools in their
places. Pupils who are in a hurry, slip in the tools wherever they
will fit, not where they belong. Labels at the places of the different
sets may help somewhat; a more efficient method is to paste or paint
the form of each tool on the wall or board against which it hangs.
Pupils will see that, when they will not stop to read a label.
In spite of all precautions, some tools will disappear. A plan to
cover the cost of these, which works well in some schools, is to
require a deposit at the beginning of the year to cover these losses.
Then at the end of the year, after deducting the cost of losses, the
balance is returned pro rata.
[Illustration: Fig. 241. An Inexpensive Locker for Unfinished Work.]
There is diversity of practice in the distribution of tools on the
general case and on the individual benches. Some tools, like the plane
and chisel, and try-square, are so frequently in use that each worker
must have one at hand. As to others, the demand must determine the
supply. One other consideration may be expressed by the principle that
those tools, the use of which is to be encouraged, should be kept
as accessible as possible, and those whose use is to be discouraged,
should be kept remote. Some tools, like files, it may be well to keep
in a separate locker to be had only when asked for.
[Illustration: Fig. 242. A More Expensive Locker for Unfinished Work.]
A cabinet of drawers, such as that shown in Fig. 240, for holding
nails, screws, and other fastenings, is both a convenience and a
material aid in preserving the order of the shop.
As for the care of tools during vacation, they should be smeared with
vaseline, which is cheap, and put away out of the dampness. The planes
should be taken apart and each part smeared. To clean them again for
use, then becomes an easy matter. The best method of removing rust and
tarnish is to polish the tools on a power buffing wheel on which has
been rubbed some tripoli. They may then be polished on a clean buffer
without tripoli.
_The Lockers._ In order to maintain good order in the shop, an almost
indispensable part of the equipment is a set of lockers for holding
the unfinished work of pupils. An inexpensive outfit may consist
simply of sets of shelves, say 5" apart, 12" deep, and 18" long, Fig.
241. Ordinary spring-roller curtains may be hung in front of each set
of shelves to conceal and protect the contents. Such a case
should cost at the rate of about 40c. for each compartment. A more
substantial and more convenient case, shown in Fig. 242, consists
of compartments each 9-1/2" high, 6" wide, and 18" deep. These
proportions may be changed to suit varying conditions. In front of
each tier of 12 compartments is a flap door opening downward. Such a
case built of yellow pine (paneled) may cost at the rate of $1.00 per
compartment.
[Illustration: Fig. 243. Gluing and Staining Bench Covered with Zinc.]
There should, of course, be a separate compartment for each pupil
using the shop. Where possible, there should be a special table for
staining and gluing. Where strict economy must be practiced, a good
sized kitchen table covered with oilcloth answers every purpose. A
better equipment would include a well-built bench, such as that shown
in Fig. 243, the top and back of which are covered with zinc.
Where no staining-table is possible, temporary coverings of oilcloth
may be provided to lay over any bench which is convenient for the
purpose.
[Illustration: Fig. 244. Shellac Utensils.]
_Care of brushes and materials used in finishing wood._ Shellac should
be kept in glass or pottery or aluminum receptacles but not in any
metal like tin, which darkens it. A good plan is to have a bottle for
fresh, untouched shellac, a wide-mouthed jar for that which has been
diluted and used, and an enameled cup for use. There should also be
a special brush, Fig. 244. At the time of using, first see that the
brush is soft and pliable. If it is stiff, it can be soaked quickly
and softened in a little alcohol in the cup. This alcohol may then be
poured into the jar and mixed in by shaking. Then pour out a little
from the jar into the cup, and if it is too thin, thicken with some
fresh shellac. After using, pour back the residue into the jar,
carefully wiping the brush on the edge of the jar; and if it is not to
be used again for some time, rinse it in a little alcohol, which may
also be poured into the jar, which should then be covered. What little
shellac remains in the brush and cup will do no harm and the brush may
be left standing in the cup until required. The important things are
to keep the shellac cup and brush for _shellac only_, (indeed, it is
a good plan to label them "SHELLAC ONLY,") and to keep the
shellac covered so that the alcohol in it will not evaporate. In a
pattern-making shop, where the shellac cup is to be frequently used,
it is well to have cups with covers thru which the brushes hang, like
the brush in a mucilage jar.
Varnish brushes need to be cleaned thoroly after each using. If they
get dry they become too hard to be cleaned without great difficulty.
Brushes for water stains are easily taken care of by washing with
water and then laying them flat in a box. Cups in which the water
stains have been used can also be easily rinsed with water.
Brushes for oil stains are most easily kept in good condition, by
being hung in a brush-keeper, Fig. 245, (sold by Devoe & Reynolds, 101
Fulton St., N. Y. C.) partly filled with turpentine. The same brushes
may also be used for fillers.
Oil stains should be poured back into their respective bottles, and
the cups wiped out with cotton waste. When they get in bad condition,
they can be cleaned readily after a preliminary soaking in a strong
solution of potash. The same treatment may be given to brushes, but if
they are left soaking too long in the solution, the bristles will be
eaten off.
[Illustration: Fig. 245. Brush-keeper.]
EQUIPMENT AND CARE OF THE SHOP
REFERENCES:[*]
Murray, _Year Book_ 1906, p. 69.
Bailey, _M. T. Mag._, 9: 138. Dec. '07.
Robillion, pp. 48-90.
Hammacher and Schlemmer, passim.
[Footnote *: For general bibliography, see p. 4.]