At Plymouth the Speedwell was abandoned and sent back to London to the

Merchant Adventurers, and with her went eighteen persons who had turned

faint-hearted, among them Robert Cushman, a chief promoter of the

emigration, and his family. Finally, after much kindness and hospitality

extended to them by the Plymouth people, of whom they carried a grateful

remembrance across the Atlantic, the Pilgrim Fathers said adieu, and all

crowded on board the Mayflower, which, with its load of passengers,

numbering one hundred and two souls, followed by many a cheering shout

and fervent "God-speed" from the shore, set sail alone on September 16

on its dreary voyage to the West. The weighing of the anchor of that

little ship changed the ultimate destiny of half the English-speaking

race!

We have to remember that a trip like this in such a vessel as the

Mayflower, crowded for the most part with helpless people, was a

hazardous undertaking. The dangers of the deep were dreaded in those

days for all-sufficient reasons, and here was a tiny craft, heavily

submerged, making a winter voyage on a stormy ocean to a destination

almost unknown. It must have required the strongest resolution, both of

passengers and crew, to face the perils of the venture; the step was a

desperate one, but, urged on by circumstances and an indomitable spirit,

they took it unfalteringly, having first done what they could to make

the lumbering little ship seaworthy.

[Illustration: _Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution_

MODEL OF THE MAYFLOWER]

The weather was cold and tempestuous, and the passage unexpectedly long.

Half way across the Atlantic the voyagers incurred the penalty of those

early delays, which now left them still at sea in the bad season. Caught

by the equinoctial gales, they were sadly buffeted about, driven hither

and thither by boisterous winds, tossed like a toy on the face of great

rolling, breaking billows, the decks swept, masts and timbers creaking,

the rigging rattling in the hard northern blast. One of the violent seas

which struck them, unshipped a large beam in the body of the vessel,

but by strenuous labour it was got into position again, and the

carpenters caulked the seams which the pitching had opened in the sides

and deck. Once that sturdy colonist of later years, John Howland,

venturing above the gratings, was washed overboard, but by a lucky

chance he caught a coil of rope trailing over the bulwark in the sea,

and was hauled back into the ship. A birth and a death at intervals were

also events of the passage. It was not until two whole months had been

spent on the troubled ocean that glad cries at last welcomed the sight

of land, and very soon after, on November 21, sixty-seven days out from

Plymouth, the Mayflower rounded Cape Cod and dropped anchor in the

placid waters of what came to be Provincetown Harbour.

[Illustration: _Copyright, 1890, by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

PLYMOUTH HARBOUR, AS SEEN FROM COLE'S HILL]

FOOTNOTES:

[3] New style, which is that adopted for the dates of sailing, and

arrival and landing in North American.

IV

"INTO A WORLD UNKNOWN"--TRIALS AND TRIUMPH

[Illustration: _Photograph by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

_From a Painting_

THE LANDING OF THE PILGRIMS]

IV

"INTO A WORLD UNKNOWN"--TRIALS AND TRIUMPH

_The breaking waves dash'd high_

_On a stern and rock-bound coast;_

_And the woods, against a stormy sky,_

_Their giant branches toss'd._--MRS. HEMANS.

We can imagine with what wondering awe and mingled hopes and fears the

Pilgrims looked out over the sea upon that strange New World, with its

great stretch of wild, wooded coast and panorama of rock and dune and

scrub, wintry bay and frowning head-land, to which destiny and the worn

white wings of the Mayflower together had brought them. With thankful

hearts for safe deliverance from the perils of the sea, mindful of the

past and not despairing for the future, they turned trustfully and

bravely to meet the dangers which they knew awaited them in the unknown

wilderness ashore.

The point reached by the voyagers was considerably north of the intended

place of settlement, the vicinity of the Hudson River; but whether

accidental or designed--and some evidence there certainly was which

seemed to show that the master of the Mayflower had been bribed by the

Dutch[4] to keep away from Manhattan, which they wanted for

themselves--the variation was a happy one for the colonists, inasmuch as

it saved them from the savages, who were warlike and numerous near the

Hudson, while in this district they had been decimated and scattered by

disease.

[Illustration: _Copyright, 1906, by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

_From a Painting_

THE MARCH OF MILES STANDISH]

Now the Pilgrims were a prudent as well as a pious and plucky people,

and while yet upon the water they set about providing themselves with a

system of civil government. Placed as they were by this time outside the

pale of recognized authority, some fitting substitute for it must be

established if order was to be maintained. The necessity for this was

the more imperative as there were some on board--the hired labourers,

probably--who were not, it was feared, "well affected to peace and

concord." Assembled in the cabin of the Mayflower, we accordingly have

the leaders of the expedition, preparing that other historical incident

of the pilgrimage. There they drew up the document forming a body

politic and promising obedience to laws framed for the common good. This

was the first American charter of self-government. It was subscribed by

all the male emigrants on board, numbering forty-one. Under the

constitution adopted, John Carver was elected Governor for one year.

The Mayflower rode at anchor while three explorations were made to

discover a suitable place of settlement, one of them on shore under

Captain Miles Standish, and two by water in the ship's shallop, which

had been stowed away in pieces 'tween decks on the voyage. On December

21st an inlet of the bay was sounded and pronounced "fit for shipping,"

and the explorers on going inland found "divers cornfields and little

running brooks," and other promising sources of supply. They accordingly

decided that this was a place "fit for situation," and on December 26th

the Mayflower's passengers, cramped and emaciated by long confinement on

board, leaped joyfully ashore. Appropriately the spot was named New

Plymouth, after the last port of call in Old England.

The Pilgrims landed on a huge boulder of granite, the Pilgrim Stone,

still reverently preserved by their descendants: a rock which was

to their feet as a doorstep

Into a world unknown--the cornerstone of a nation![5]

The early struggles of the Plymouth planters and the hardships they

endured form a story of terrible privation and suffering on the one hand

and heroic endurance and self-sacrifice on the other. They were late in

arriving, and the season, midwinter, was unpropitious. The weather was

unusually severe, even for that rigorous climate, and the Pilgrims found

themselves in sorry plight on that bleak New England shore. Cold and

famine had doggedly to be fought, and the contest was an unequal one.

Cooped up for so long in the Mayflower, and badly fed and sheltered on

the voyage, the settlers were ill-fitted to withstand the stress of the

new conditions. For a time it was a struggle for bare existence, and the

little colony was brought very near to extinction.

The first care was to provide accommodation ashore, and for economy of

building the community was divided into nineteen households, and the

single men assigned to the different families, each of whom was to erect

its own habitation and to have a plot of land. These rude homesteads of

wood and thatch, and other buildings, eventually formed a single street

beside the stream running down to the beach from the hill beyond. The

soil of the chosen settlement appeared to be good, and abounded with

"delicate springs" of water; the land yielded plentifully in season, and

life teemed upon the coast and in the sea.

[Illustration: _Copyright, 1906, by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

THE CANOPY OVER PLYMOUTH ROCK]

But many of the Pilgrims never lived to enjoy this provision of a

bountiful Providence. Worn out, enfeebled in health, insufficiently

housed ashore, they were a prey to sickness. Death reaped a rich harvest

in their midst. Every second day a grave had to be dug for one or other

of them in the frozen ground. Sometimes, during January and February,

two or three died in a single day. So rapid was the mortality that at

last only a mere handful remained who were able to look after the sick.

William Bradford was at this time prostrated, and it is pathetic to note

the expression of his gratitude to his friend William Brewster and Miles

Standish and others who ministered to his needs and those of the

fellow-sufferers around him. One house, the first finished, was set

apart as a hospital. The hill above the beach was converted into a

burial-ground,[6] and one is touched to the quick to read of the graves

having to be levelled and grassed over for fear the prowling Indians

should discover how few and weak the strangers were becoming!

With March came better weather, and for the first time "the birds sang

pleasantly in the woods," and brought hope and gladness to the hearts of

the struggling colonists. But, by that time, of the hundred or more who

had landed three short months before, one-half had perished miserably.

John Carver succumbed in April, and his wife quickly followed him to

the grave. Bradford, by the suffrages of his brethren, was made Governor

for the first time in Carver's place. He had himself sustained a heavy

bereavement, for, while he was away in the shallop with the exploring

party, Dorothy May, the wife he had married at Amsterdam, fell overboard

and was drowned. Many men of the Mayflower also died that dreadful

winter as the ship lay at anchor in the bay, including the boatswain,

the gunner, and the cook, three quartermasters and several seamen.

[Illustration: _Photograph by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

_From a Painting_

THE OLD FORT AND FIRST MEETING HOUSE]

To other troubles were allied the ever menacing peril of the Indians,

which resulted in the famous challenge of the bundle of arrows wrapped

in a rattlesnake's skin, and Bradford's effective reply to it with a

serpent's skin stuffed with powder and shot; also, less happily, that

return of Miles Standish and his men bearing in triumph a sagamore's

head; and the building of the hill-fort, with cannon brought ashore from

the Mayflower mounted on its roof, where also they worshipped till the

first church was built at the hill fort in 1648. Here it was that the

Pilgrims perpetuated the church founded at Scrooby in England. A

building erected for storage and public worship in the first days of the

colony took fire soon after its completion and was burnt to the ground.

Of the refuge on the hill Bradford writes: "They builte a fort with good

timber, both strong and comly, which was of good defence, made with a

flatte rofe and batilments, on which their ordnance was mounted, and

where they kepte constante watch, especially in time of danger. It

served them also for a meeting-house, and was fitted accordingly for

that use." The fort was large and square, and a work of such pretentions

as to be regarded by some of the Pilgrims as vainglorious. Its provision

was fully justified by the dangers which threatened the settlers, and it

became the center of both the civic and religious life of the little

colony.

An excellent idea of the scene at Sunday church parade is given in a

letter[7] written by Isaac de Rassieres, secretary to the Dutch colony

established at Manhattan, the modern New York, in 1623, describing a

visit he paid to the Plymouth Plantation in the autumn of 1627. After

speaking of the flat-roofed fort with its "six cannon, which shoot iron

balls of four and five pounds and command the surrounding country," the

writer says of the Pilgrims meeting in the lower part: "They assemble by

beat of drum, each with his musket or firelock, in front of the

captain's door; they have their cloaks on, and place themselves in order

three abreast, and are led by a sergeant without beat of drum. Behind

comes the Governor in a long robe; beside him, on the right hand, comes

the Preacher with his cloak on, and on the left the Captain with his

sidearms and cloak on, and with a small cane in his hand; and so they

march in good order, and each sets his arms down near him. Thus they are

constantly on their guard, night and day."

The spectacle may not have been strictly that witnessed at every service

on "Sundays and the usual holidays," for this was a state visit to the

Colony, with solemn entry and heralding by trumpeters, and the Pilgrims

probably treated the occasion with more form than was their wont. Still

it is an instructive picture, full of romantic suggestion.

[Illustration: _Photograph by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

_From the Painting by G. H. Boughton_

PILGRIMS GOING TO CHURCH]

And then the service itself. For some notion of this we must turn to a

visit paid to the Plantation five years later, in the autumn of 1632,

when we are introduced to another scene in the fortified church. From

the "Life and Letters" of John Winthrop, Governor of the neighbouring

Colony of Massachusetts Bay, we gather that, at the time stated,

Winthrop and his pastor, John Wilson, came over to Plymouth, walking the

twenty-five miles. "On the Lord's Day," we read, "there was a sacrament,

which they did partake in." Roger Williams was there as assistant to

Ralph Smith, the first minister of Plymouth church, and in the afternoon

Williams, according to custom, "propounded a question," to which Mr.

Smith "spake briefly." Then Mr. Williams "prophesied," that is he

preached, "and after, the Governor of Plymouth spake to the question;

after him, Elder Brewster; then some two or three men of the

congregation. Then Elder Brewster desired the Governor of Massachusetts

and Mr. Wilson to speak to it, which they did. When this was ended the

deacon, Mr. Fuller, put the congregation in mind of their duty of

contribution; whereupon the Governor and all the rest went down to the

deacon's seat, and put into the box, and then returned."

There is nothing here about the music of the services, such as it was,

vocal only, rugged, but not without melody. We know, however, that the

Pilgrims used that psalter, brought over by them to New England, with

its tunes printed above each psalm in lozenge-shaped Elizabethan notes,

which Longfellow so grandly describes in "The Courtship of Miles

Standish" as

the well-worn psalm-book of Ainsworth,

Printed in Amsterdam, the words and the music together,

Rough-hewn, angular notes, like stones in the walls of a churchyard,

Darkened and overhung by the running vine of the verses.

The duty of "tuning the Psalm," as they designated the performance, in

the young colonial days, before choirs or precentors were dreamt of, was

delegated to some lusty-lunged brother present, and, judged by the

testimony which has come down to us, it was an onerous one, trying to

his patience and his vocal power when, as sometimes happened, the

congregation carried another tune against him. They were called to

Sabbath worship in the earlier times by sound of horn or beat of drum

or the blowing of a large conch-shell. At Plymouth we have seen it was

by drum beat, probably from the roof, that the people were assembled at

the meeting-house.

When the Mayflower left them to return home in the spring, the settlers

must have felt they were desolate indeed, for their nearest civilised

neighbours were five hundred miles to the north and south of them, the

French at Nova Scotia and the English in Virginia. Seven months later,

in November, came the Fortune, bringing thirty-five new emigrants,

including William Brewster's eldest son; John Winslow, a brother of

Edward; and Robert Cushman, who had turned back the year before at Old

Plymouth. In addition to her passengers, the Fortune brought out to the

colonists, from the Council of New England, a patent[8] of their land,

drawn up in the name of John Pierce and his associate Merchant

Adventurers in the same way as the charter granted them by the Plymouth

Company on February 21, 1620, authorising the planters to establish

their colony near the mouth of the Hudson river.

[Illustration: _Photograph by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

_From the Painting by A. W. Bayes_

THE DEPARTURE OF THE MAYFLOWER]

When the Fortune sailed back to England, she carried a cargo of

merchandise valued at five hundred pounds. This was intended for the

Adventurers, but they never received it, for when nearing port, the

vessel was captured by the French and the cargo seized. The ship was

allowed to proceed, and Cushman, who returned in her, secured the papers

on board, among them Bradford and Winslow's Journal, known as Mourt's

Relation, and a letter from Edward Winslow to his "loving and old

friend" George Morton, who was about to come out, giving seasonable

advice as to what he and his companions should bring with them--good

store of clothes and bedding, and each man a musket and fowling-piece;

paper and linseed oil for the making of their windows (glass being then

too great a luxury for a New England home), and much store of powder and

shot.

Soon arrived further parties from Leyden and stores from the Adventurers

in London in the Anne and the Little James pinnace, the people including

such welcome additions as Brewster's two daughters, Fear and Patience;

George Morton and his household; Mrs. Samuel Fuller; Alice Carpenter,

widow of Edward Southworth, afterwards the second wife of Governor

Bradford; and Barbara, who married Miles Standish. Then from the Leyden

pastor came letters for Bradford and Brewster. The writer was dead--had

been dead a year--when those letters reached their destination, but this

they only knew when Standish gave them the tidings on his return from a

voyage to England. John Robinson passed away at the age of forty-nine on

March 1, 1622, in the old meeting-house at Leyden, and they buried him

under the pavement of St. Peter's Church. Brewster lost his wife about

the time the sad news was known, and the messenger who brought it had

further to tell of the death of Robert Cushman. Truly the tale of

affliction was a sore one.

By the July of 1623 a total of about two hundred and thirty-three

persons had been brought out, including the children and servants, of

whom one hundred and two, composed of seventy-three males and

twenty-nine females, eighteen of the latter wives, were landed from the

Mayflower. At the close of that year not more than one hundred and

eighty-three were living. The survivors bravely persevered. Gradually

the Pilgrim Colony took deep root. The New Plymouth men were a steady,

plodding set, and the soil, if hard, was tenacious. They got a firm

foothold. They suffered much, for their trials by no means ended with

the first winter; but their cheerful trust in Providence and in their

own final triumph never wavered. By 1628 their position was secure

beyond all doubt or question. The way was now prepared; the tide of

emigration set in; and the main body of the Puritans began to follow in

the track of their courageous and devoted advance-guard.

[Illustration: _Copyright, 1904, by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

CAPTAIN MILES STANDISH]

Out there in the West these Pilgrims, or first-comers, settled

themselves resolutely to the task which lay before them. They were no

idle dreamers, though their idealism was intense, and they were united

by the bonds of sympathy and helpfulness, one towards another. Their

works were humble, their lives simple and obscure, their worldly success

but small, their fears many and pressing, and their vision of the future

restricted and dim. But they consistently put into practise the

conceptions and ideals which dominated them and were to be the

inheritance of the great Republic they unconsciously initiated and

helped to build up. They established a community and a government

solidly founded on love of freedom and belief in progress, on civil

liberty and religious toleration, on industrial cooperation and

individual honesty and industry, on even-handed justice and a real

equality before the laws, on peace and goodwill supported by protective

force. They were more liberal and tolerant in religion than the Puritan

colonists of Massachusetts Bay, and more merciful in their punishments;

they perpetrated no atrocities against inferior peoples, and cherished

the love of peace and of political justice.

Although at first the relations of the Pilgrims with their Puritan

neighbours were none of the best, a better state of feeling before long

prevailed. We have seen how John Winthrop and his pastor plodded over to

Plymouth to attend its Sunday worship. Three years earlier, in 1629,

Bradford and some of his brethren went by sea to Salem to an ordination

service there, and, says Morton in his "Memorial," "gave them the right

hand of fellowship." There were other visits, letters of friendship, and

reciprocal acts of kindness. We read of Samuel Fuller, physician and

deacon, going to Salem to tend the sick, and of Governor Winthrop

lending Plymouth in its need twenty-eight pounds of gunpowder.

This good feeling strengthened as time went on, and drew together the

Plantations of Plymouth, Massachusetts, and Connecticut for mutual

support and protection; and in May, 1643, the deputies of these

Colonies, meeting at Boston, subscribed the Articles of Confederation

which created the first Federal Union in America. This league prospered

well until 1684, when the Colonial charter was annulled and a Crown

Colony was established under an English governor. Less than a decade

later Massachusetts became a Royal province, and that period in American

history was entered upon which ended with the Declaration of

Independence and the creation of the United States.

[Illustration: _Copyright, 1904, by A. S. Burbank, Plymouth_

GOVERNOR WILLIAM BRADFORD]

While the federation of 1643 did much for the United Colonies, it

overshadowed, but could not obscure, Plymouth and the unique annals and

traditions which have preserved for it a foremost place in all American

history. With the order of things inaugurated in 1692 the body politic

framed by the men of the Mayflower ceased to have separate existence,

but it remains deep in the foundations of the nation which absorbed it.

In the modest language of William Bradford used in his day, "As one

small candle may light a thousand, so the light here kindled hath shone

to many, yea, in some sort to our whole nation," a truth which has a far

wider application now than it had in Bradford's time.

* * * * *

Such is the story of the Mayflower Pilgrims, romantic, heroic, idyllic,

based also upon the principles which have molded and maintained a mighty

free nation. Its place in the life of to-day is honoured and

conspicuous, and rests upon the rock of a people's gratitude.

During the nineteenth century it was proclaimed by many orators, among

them John Quincy Adams, Daniel Webster, Edward Everett, Robert Charles

Winthrop, and George Frisbie Hoar--to name only the century's dead--who

as New Englanders and lovers of liberty were well fitted to voice the

virtues of the Pilgrim Fathers, the hardships they endured, their high

merits as colonists compared with other colonists of ancient and modern

times, and the immense issues springing from their devout, laborious,

and self-sacrificing lives.

Passing on to the twentieth century we have the story taken up by one

American President and continued by another at the cornerstone laying

and dedication of a combined tribute of State and Nation to the lives

and work of the Forefathers. This was the Pilgrim Memorial Monument,

erected at Provincetown on a commanding site above the harbour in whose

waters the Mayflower dropped her anchor nearly three centuries ago.

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