DURBAN.

The railway journey from Maritzburg to Durban, a distance of fifty-seven

miles by road, is long and rather tedious travelling on account of the

slow pace. The line (a single one), which seems to have been very

skilfully engineered, is necessarily constructed with such steep

gradients that this seems inevitable. The long stoppages at stations

might be certainly improved. Durban is the prettiest as well as one of

the cleanest, and most well-ordered towns I have seen in South Africa. I

was at once struck with the Town Hall, a magnificent building, recently

erected, and generally stated to be, although not the largest, in some

respects the handsomest in South Africa. The total cost of construction

was about £50,000, and it is worthy of note that in their selection of

an architect, the Corporation of Durban did not have to go beyond their

own town, an efficient man being found in Mr. P.M. Dudgeon. The building

is of the Corinthian order of architecture, having a frontage of 206

feet, with a depth of 270 feet. It is prettily situated, and is a

striking proof of what colonists can do when an occasion demanding

skill, and perseverance, arises. There are several other fine buildings

in the town. A stranger coming from the Transvaal is immediately

impressed with the contrast between the careless indifference, which

marks the absence of proper municipal arrangements in the towns of the

South African Republic, and the proofs of their presence in an

energetic British community. The Natalians certainly deserve the

greatest credit for the way in which they carry on the business and

manage the public affairs of their prosperous, and thriving town, which

has a population of 17,000, of whom about 9,000 are Europeans. Recent

commercial returns show that the trade of Natal, of which Durban, as the

seaport town, is the centre, is rapidly increasing.

[Illustration: TOWN HALL, DURBAN.]

The imports during the first three-quarters of the year 1888 were about

two millions; and in 1889, during the same period, they had risen to

three millions. The exports during 1888 were one million; for the same

period in 1889 they were one million and a quarter. Imports have

advanced 50 per cent., exports by 25 per cent. Customs revenue has

advanced by 25 per cent., and if the receipts be maintained, which is

more than probable, the total income for the year from this source will

reach £350,000. It is anticipated that the combined trade of Natal for

the year 1889 will not be far short of six millions sterling. The

increase is a substantial one, and, what is more satisfactory, is that

there appears to be every reasonable prospect that the trade will go on

increasing by leaps and bounds. Affairs are in a generally prosperous

state, and a good sign is to be found in the fact that the emigration

returns are also rapidly rising.

[Illustration: HARBOUR WORKS, DURBAN.]

The gigantic Harbour Works, commenced and now nearly successfully

completed for the purpose of removing the bar, according to the plans

both of Sir John Coode, and subsequently of his pupil, their late

lamented engineer, Mr. Innes, and under the active personal

superintendence of their distinguished townsman the Chairman of the

Harbour Board, comprise an undertaking of which the citizens of Durban

may well be proud. Nor is less credit due to them, and to their spirited

leaders, for their enterprise in so rapidly pushing on their railway to

the Transvaal border, in the confident expectation that they will be the

first to bring the benefits of that most necessary modern mode of

conveyance, both for passengers and goods, into the heart of the

Transvaal Republic.

The Harbour Works, the Railway, and the Durban Town Hall are all works

of sufficient magnitude to give undoubted evidence of the public spirit

and unconquerable energy of the people of Natal.

The inhabitants of Durban are fortunate in possessing picturesque

surroundings to their pretty town. The "Berea," one of its most

attractive spots, is an elevated suburb where many of the principal

merchants, and others have their residences. It commands a lovely

prospect over the bay, and a beautiful view of the country inland.

During, my stay at Durban I paid visits to two of the most remarkable

places in the neighbourhood. These were the Natal Central Sugar

Company's manufactory at Mount Edgcumbe, and the famous Trappist

establishment at Marionhill. The sugar manufactory is situated on a farm

of some 8,000 acres, about 15 miles from Durban. A short railway ride

brought me to it. I was courteously received by the manager, Monsieur

Dumat. This gentleman, a Frenchman of great experience in the

manufacture of sugar both in India and Mauritius, has been at Mount

Edgcumbe for the last ten years. He is remarkable for the way in which

he maintains order and control over all his numerous native workmen. In

the mill itself there are 160 men employed, everyone of whom is a

Coolie. There is not a single white man on the premises, excepting two

English clerks in the counting house. I was astonished at the perfect

order which reigned in the mill, where I spent some time. Everyone

appeared to perform his allotted task with activity, cheerfulness, and

untiring perseverance. Monsieur Dumat told me he could never get the

same steady work from white workmen. He seems to govern them all with

perfect tact and kindness. Some of them have been with him for many

years. There are about 900 other men, Kafirs and Coolies, employed on

the farm. I was shown all the various processes of sugar manufacture,

from the crushing of the cane, to the crystallising of the sugar. The

first sorts are ready for sale in forty-eight hours; other qualities

require a week, and again even as much as six months to perfect them.

There is some wonderful machinery in the mill.

The Trappist establishment at Marionhill is one which should be seen by

everyone visiting Natal. It is reached by rail from Durban in about an

hour's ride to the Pine Town station. A drive from thence of about four

miles brings a visitor to Marionhill. The monks, as is well known, are

under a vow of strict silence. I was met by one of them at the station,

who drove me in a waggonette to the Trappist farm. Here I was met by,

and presented to, the Abbot. He is the real leader and director of this

remarkable establishment. He devoted three hours to taking me over it,

and showing me all the various industries and works which are carried

on. About two hundred brothers are there at present, but more are

expected shortly, and upwards of one hundred sisters, and about three

hundred Kafirs. The latter are taught, not only the ordinary branches

of a practical education (of course including religion), but all sorts

of handicraft. It is, emphatically, a school of technical education.

Everything is manufactured and made at Marionhill, from the substantial

bullock wagons, and the delicate spiders, to the baking of bread, the

building of houses, stables, and cattle lairs, the printing of

periodicals, and book-binding. Work is the great and leading feature of

the Trappist creed. The motive power is religion. Its controlling

influence is here complete.

I came away quite amazed at all I saw, as well as pleased at the

attention I received from the Abbot. He is certainly a very remarkable

man, of great natural gifts, and indomitable energy and power. He is

sixty-five years of age. He was born on the shores of Lake Constance;

and before he took to studying for the Roman Catholic Church in a

German University, he was employed, as he told me, in early life in the

care of cattle at his native home.

The Trappist farm is beautifully situated, and within its area contains

some really fine scenery. The Kafir women's part of the establishment is

distinct, and quite half a mile distant from the men's quarters. Women

are taught to sew, and sing, to cut out and make dresses, to cook,

clean, and go through all the usual routine of household work. The

costume of the female Trappists, who, as well as the male, are highly

educated, is scarlet serge, with white aprons. The men are clothed in

brown serge.

I was struck with the admirable arrangement of the stables, constructed

for twenty horses, and of the cow and cattle sheds. All the engineering

works also show evidences of the complete knowledge of science possessed

by the "brothers," and their energetic leader. I came away much

interested, and wonderfully impressed with all I had seen in this

remarkable institution.

Up to the present time the defences of the Colony have been in a very

backward state but I was glad to find that a battery is in course of

construction, commanding the entrance to the Bay, which is to be armed

with guns of the latest pattern, one of them having recently arrived at

Durban.

Having passed ten very pleasant days at Durban and its neighbourhood, I

embarked, on the 15th of August, on board the coasting steamer,

_Anglian_, for Port Elizabeth. I had a terrible experience of the

annoyance of the present mode of embarking passengers at Durban. After

attempting to get over the Bar in a tremendous sea, we were obliged to

put back into the Harbour thoroughly drenched. Once more attempting it,

we succeeded after another good wetting in getting alongside the

_Anglian_, where we remained at anchor until the morning, waiting for

the Cargo Boat we were obliged to leave behind, rolling and pitching all

night. The eastern coast of South Africa is subject to weather which is

often very rough and stormy; and I was, unluckily, destined to

experience it. I certainly had a most disagreeable time, in making this

short voyage. After touching at East London, where extensive harbour

works are being constructed, I was landed at Port Elizabeth (after three

days' knocking about at sea) on the 18th, being let down, like St. Paul,

in a basket, from the deck of the _Anglian_ to the tug, which took me to

the pier in the open roadstead. Right glad was I to get on _terra firma_

again.

[Illustration: Decorative]