own attraction as the finest conservatory in the kingdom, possesses
an historical interest as being the first of its kind ever erected,
and from which the idea of the Great Exhibition building of 1851, and
all the later exhibition buildings, including the “Crystal Palace” at
Sydenham, was taken. This splendid conservatory was erected some years
ago by Sir Joseph, at that time Mr., Paxton, and is, in its interior,
277 feet in length, 123 feet in width, and no fewer than 67 feet in
height in its centre. Its form is that of a trefoil; the transverse
section showing a semicircle 70 feet in diameter, rising from two
segments of circles springing from breast-walls. The whole building is
of glass, constructed on the “ridge and furrow” principle, with iron
ribs. About 70,000 square feet of glass are used in this gigantic
building, and the iron sash ribs alone are calculated to extend, if
laid together lengthways, no less than forty miles. At each end is a
large doorway, and along the centre is a wide carriage-drive, so that
several carriages can, on any special occasion, as on the Queen’s
visit in 1843, be within the building at the same time. Besides the
central drive, there are side-aisles running the entire length, and
a cross-aisle in the centre of the building. A light and elegant
gallery also runs round the entire interior, and is approached by a
staircase hidden among the rockery. Of the collection of trees and
plants preserved in this giant conservatory, it is not necessary to
speak further than to say that from the smallest aquatic plants up to
the most stately palm-trees, and from the banana down to the papyrus
and the delicate ferns, every conceivable rarity and beauty is here,
flourishing in native luxuriance and in endless profusion. Beneath the
conservatory a railway runs around the entire building, for fuel and
other purposes.
[Illustration: _Part of the Rock-work—the Rocky Portal._]
Not far from the conservatory, and approached by a path between tall
and stately yew hedges, is a sweetly pretty circular pool of water,
with central fountain, filled with water-lilies, and surrounded
first by a broad circular band of grass, then by a broad encircling
gravel-path, edged on half its circumference with a closely-cut yew
hedge with arched entrances, and the other half planted at regular
intervals with cypress-trees. This, however, is but one of many
charming spots which characterize the grounds at Chatsworth.
[Illustration: _The Emperor Fountain._]
The EMPEROR FOUNTAIN is one of the great attractions of Chatsworth,
and one that to see is to remember. This marvellous fountain throws
up a thick jet of water no fewer than 267 feet in height, which,
spreading out as it falls, forms a liquid sheet of spray, on which, not
unfrequently, the sunlight produces an exquisite rainbow. The quantity
of metal, we are told, required in the formation of the pipes, &c.,
for this gigantic work, amounts to nearly 220 tons. The force of the
water is so great that it is said to rush out of the pipe at the rate
of a hundred miles a minute. Near the “Emperor” are other fountains
of great beauty, and when all are playing, the effect is beyond
description.
[Illustration: _The Garden on the West Front._]
Of the truly elegant and indeed wondrous gardens and parterres on the
west and south fronts of the mansion, and of the thousand and one
other attractions of the place, we have not time to speak, so lengthy
has our article upon this “Palace of the Peak” already become; but
there are yet two or three objects before passing out into the outer
grounds and the kitchen-garden &c., on which we must say a word. These
are the trees that were planted by royalty, and which most loyally
have been tended, and grown up to a wondrous size. One of these is an
oak-tree planted (well do we remember the circumstance, and the pretty,
simple, earnest, and interesting appearance of the youthful princess
at the time) in 1832, by our present beloved Queen, when, as a child
of thirteen, then the “Princess Victoria,” she visited Chatsworth,
with her august mother the Duchess of Kent. This tree, which in its
forty years’ growth has become a stately oak, bears the label,—“This
Oak planted by Princess Victoria, October 11th, 1832.” Near it is a
Spanish chestnut thus labelled—“Spanish chestnut, planted by the
Duchess of Kent, October 17th, 1832.” Then comes a sycamore planted
when the Queen and the Prince Consort, “Albert the Good,” visited
Chatsworth in 1843; it is labelled—“This Sycamore planted by Prince
Albert, 1843.” In another part of the garden, opposite the west front,
are a “Sweet Chestnut, planted by the (late) Emperor of Russia, 1816;”
and a “Variegated Sycamore, planted by the Archduke Michael of Russia,
1818.” A tree was also planted by H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, on the
visit of himself and H. R. H. the Princess of Wales, to Chatsworth, in
December, 1872.
[Illustration: _West Front from the South._]
Chatsworth Park and grounds, from the Baslow Lodge on the north to
Edensor Mill Lodge on the south, and from the East Moor on the east to
Holme Wood on the west, are somewhere about ten miles in circumference,
and comprise an area, in round numbers, of about 1,200 acres; and it
would be difficult to find anywhere, in the same space, so great
a variety of scenery ranging from the purely sylvan to the wildly
romantic, and from the luxuriant wood to the rugged and barren rock,
where beauties of one kind or other crowd together so thickly, or where
such a charming alternation from one phase to another exists. But it
is impossible even briefly to attempt to speak of these beauties—our
engravings will have shown some of their features; others must be left
for the eye of the visitor to revel in while there. On one or two more
points only can we touch.
[Illustration: _The Hunting Tower._]
The HUNTING TOWER, which forms so conspicuous an object in the
landscape, crowning the wooded heights at the back of the house, and
from which floats a huge flag whenever the Duke is at Chatsworth, was
built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth as a prospect-tower, from which
the ladies of the family, and guests, might watch the progress of
the chase. It is a massive erection, of square form, with a circular
turret at each angle, and is about ninety feet in height; it commands a
magnificent prospect on every side. Near it, by the lake, or reservoir,
is the SWISS COTTAGE—a perfect cottage ornée.
[Illustration: _Mary Queen of Scots’ Bower._]
QUEEN MARY’S BOWER is one of the best-known objects in the park,
being situated near the drive leading from the bridge to the house,
and at a short distance only from the banks of the river Derwent.
This interesting relic of the unfortunate queen is a raised enclosure
surrounded by a deep moat, and approached by a flight of steps which
bridge over the water on its south side. Externally the “bower,”
overhung with trees and covered here and there with ivy which reaches
up to its open balustrade, is highly picturesque; internally it is a
pleasant enclosed grassy retreat, rendered shady by the trees which
grow in and around it.
The KITCHEN GARDENS lie to the left of the drive from the house to
Baslow, and near to the banks of the Derwent. They are of great
extent, and of the most perfectly scientific character in the
arrangements—indeed, it would be impossible to find finer or better
constructed gardens attached to any mansion. At the entrance to
the gardens, shortly after passing through the lodge, is the house
formerly inhabited by the late Sir Joseph Paxton, M.P., who was head
gardener to the late Duke of Devonshire. This house, originally a fit
dwelling-place for the head gardener of such a grand establishment as
Chatsworth, but which had “grown with the greatness” of Sir Joseph
until it became in itself an elegant mansion, is now very properly
altered and divided into two residences. Sir Joseph Paxton, whose
career was marked with great success, was born at Milton Bryant, in
Bedfordshire, on the 3rd of August, 1803, his father, a small farmer,
being a tenant of the Duke of Bedford.
[Illustration: _The Late Sir Joseph Paxton’s House._]
Sir Joseph was brought up to be a gardener, and was, when quite a boy,
taken under the care of his elder brother, at that time head gardener
at Wimbledon House. When a little more than twenty years of age he
was placed in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick, and, being quick
and clever, he had the charge of a plant-range committed to his care.
These grounds joined those of the Duke of Devonshire’s seat, Chiswick
House, and his grace, finding young Paxton attentive and intelligent,
took much notice of him. The result was that his grace, a short time
before leaving England as Ambassador to Russia, made an engagement with
him. In May, 1826, shortly after the Duke’s return, Paxton entered
upon his new duties as head gardener at Chatsworth, being at that time
about twenty-three years of age. In the following year he married Miss
Sarah Bown, and soon after was made forester, and next, manager, of
the parks, and of the game department, and was consulted by his noble
employer upon most subjects connected with the household and estates,
and ultimately, he added to his already important offices that of agent
for the home district of Chatsworth.
In 1831, Mr. Paxton, in conjunction with Mr. Harrison, commenced the
publication of “The Horticultural Register.” Other works followed,
including his “Magazine of Botany,” a “Practical Treatise on the
Culture of the Dahlia,” a “Pocket Botanical Dictionary,” the “Flower
Garden,” and others, and these will undoubtedly remain standard works.
During the whole of this time, and to the time of the death of the
duke, Mr. Paxton’s mind was actively engaged, and his energy constantly
employed, in the improvement of the gardens and grounds at Chatsworth,
and the erection of the grand conservatory and other plant-houses,
&c. In 1851 he brought his talents to bear in a national matter—the
designing and erecting of the Great Exhibition building of that year,
taking as his model the conservatory which, on his own design in every
particular, he had a few years before erected. In the same year he
was knighted by the Queen, at Windsor, on the 23rd of October, and
in 1854 was elected M.P. for the City of Coventry. Sir Joseph Paxton
designed the present Crystal Palace, and it is not too much to say that
to his principle of glass buildings, of a wide span, and glazed on
the ridge-and-furrow principle (invented by him), there is scarcely a
railway-station, conservatory, or large public hall or pavilion, that
does not trace its origin. Sir Joseph died in 1865, and Lady Paxton in
1871.
Of the interior of the VICTORIA REGIA HOUSE we give an engraving,
showing the gigantic leaf and flower of this royal plant, which was
first grown, and first flowered, at Chatsworth, and named after our
beloved Queen, to whom the first flower was presented in 1849. Besides
the “Victoria Regia House,” other points of interest in the kitchen
gardens are the “New Holland House,” the “Amherstia House,” the “Pine
Houses” and the “Vineries.” The kitchen gardens are not, of course,
open to visitors.
The village of EDENSOR, closely adjoining the park, was, with the
exception of the church and one or two houses, removed to its present
position from its former site in the park some forty years ago. It
is, indeed, the most perfect model village we have ever seen, and the
beauty of its villas—for every cottage in the place _is_ a villa—the
charm of its scenery, and the peace and quietness which seem to
reign in and around it, make it as near an _Eden_ on earth as one
can expect any place to be, and to which its name most curiously and
appropriately points. Edensor is entered by a very picturesque lodge
from the park, and the outlet at its upper extremity is also closed by
gates, so that the only thoroughfare through the place is a highway
to Bakewell. Besides the Agent’s house, there are in Edensor a good
parsonage house and a village school, but, luckily, there is neither a
village ale-house, blacksmith’s forge, wheelwright’s shop, or any other
gossiping place; and unpleasant sights and discordant sounds are alike
unknown.
[Illustration: _The Victoria Regia._]
The old church of Edensor was taken down a few years ago, and the
present one, from the design of Gilbert Scott, erected on its site by
his grace the present Duke of Devonshire. The old church consisted
of a nave with side aisles and a chancel, and it had a square
battlemented tower at its west end. The nave and western porch were
also battlemented; the battlements being carried over the gable of the
chancel-arch, in the centre of which was a niche for a sanctus-bell.
The east window was of decorative character, as were those at the east
end of the south aisle, and one near the priests’ door on the south
side of the chancel. Interiorly the church possessed many interesting
features, including some remarkable capitals, which have mostly been
preserved, with the curious monuments, in the new edifice.
[Illustration: _Edensor Church and Village._]
The present church, completed in 1870, is a remarkably fine and elegant
structure, with a lofty tower and broach spire at its west end; of it
we give an engraving, as seen from the upper part of the village, from
a photograph by Mr. E. F. Bampton, of Edensor. It consists of a nave
with side aisles, a chancel, and a monumental chapel opening from the
south side of the chancel. The font, which is of marble, and extremely
chaste and beautiful, is at the west end, and the pulpit, which also
is of marble, is placed against the chancel-arch. In the chancel are
very elegant _sedilia_, and the floor is laid with encaustic tiles.
One of the most historically interesting remains in this church is a
brass plate in the chancel to the memory of John Beton, one of the
household and confidential servants of Mary Queen of Scots, who died at
Chatsworth while his royal mistress was a captive there, in 1570. At
the head of the plate are the arms of Beton (who was of the same family
as Cardinal David Beton, who took so prominent a part in the affairs
of Scotland in the reign of James V. and of Mary, and of James Beton,
Archbishop of St. Andrew’s), quarterly first and fourth a fesse between
three mascles; second and third, on a chevron an otter’s head, erased;
with the crest a talbot’s head. At the bottom is a figure of Beton,
in plate armour, lying dead upon a pallet, his hands by his side and
his head resting on a pillow. Of this historically interesting brass
we give a careful engraving on the opposite page. For this, with some
other illustrations, we are indebted to “The Reliquary, Archæological
Journal.”
Another brass plate, near the chancel-arch, bears the following
inscription:—
“Here lies ye Body of Mr. Iohn Philips,
sometime Houskeeper at Chatsworth,
who departed this life on ye 28th of May,
1735, in ye 73rd year of his age, and 60th
of his Service in ye most Noble Family
of His Grace the Duke of
Devonshire.
Pray let my Bones together lie
Until that sad and joyfull Day,
When from above a Voice shall say,
Rise, all ye Dead, lift up your Eyes,
Your great Creator bids you rise;
Then do I hope with all ye Just
To shake off my polluted Dust,
And in new Robes of Glory Drest
To have access amongst ye Bless’d.
Which God of his infinite Mercy Grant,
For the sake & through ye Merits of my
Redeemer, Jesus Christ ye Righteous.
Amen.”
In the chapel alluded to is a large and remarkably fine monument,
entirely filling up its west side, and of somewhat remarkable
character. On either side is a massive pedestal, supporting a life-size
statue, and pilasters which rise behind them support a pediment for the
sculptured arms, crest, and supporters of the Earl of Devonshire.
[Illustration: _Monumental Brass to John Beton._
DEO OPT MAX ET POSTERITATI SACRVM.
Ioanni Betonio Scoto, nobilis & optimi viri Ioannis Betonii ab
Anthmwthy filio, Dauidis Betonii Illustriss. S. R. E. Cardinalis
nepoti, Iacobi Betonii Reuerendiss^s Andræe Archiepiscopi, et Regni
Scotiæ Cancellarii digniss pronepoti ab ineunte ætate in humanioribus
disciplinis, & philosophia. quo facilior ad ius Romanū (cuius ipse
Consultifs suit) aditus pateret ab optimis quibusqz preceptorib’
& liberaliter & ingenue, educato: omnibus morum facilitate, fide
prudentia, & constantia charo: vnde a Sereniss Principe Maria Scotorū,
Gallorumqz Regina in prægustatoris primu, mox Oeconomi munus sussecto,
eiusdemqz Sereniss. Reginæ, vna cum aliis, evinculis trucu lentiss.
Tiranni, apud leuini lacus castrum liberatori fortiss quem post varias
legationes, & ad Carolum Galliarum Regem Christianiss & ad Elizabetham
Sereniss Anglorum Reginam fœliciter & non sine laude susceptas: fatis
properantibus, in suæ æiatis flore, fors aspēra immani dy-senterias
morbo, e numero viuentiu exemit Iacobus Reuerendiss. Glasquensis
Archiepiscopus, & Andreas Betonii eiusdem sereniss. Reginæ ille apud
Regem Christianiss Legatus, hic vero Oeconomus in ppetuam rei memoria,
exvolutate & pro imperio sereniss. Reginæ heræ clemētiss s^{rs}
moestiss posuerūt
_Obiit anno salutis 1570 Vixit annos 32 menses 7. & diem an̄i expectat
apud Chathworth in Anglia._
EPITAPHIVM
IMMATVRA TIBI LEGERVNT FILA SORORES. BETONI, VT SVMMVM INGENIVM
SVMMVMQZ PERIRET IVDICIVM, ET NOBIS IVCVNDVM NIL FORET VLTRA.
AB]
In the centre are two inscription-tablets, surmounted by a figure of
Fame blowing a trumpet, and on either side of these is a semicircular
arch, supported upon black marble columns, with foliated capitals.
[Illustration: _Cavendish Monument, Edensor Church._]
In one of these arched niches is sculptured the suit of armour, with
helmet, gauntlets, &c.—hung in the niche in natural form, but without
the body—of Henry Cavendish, of Tutbury, eldest son of Sir William
Cavendish, of Chatsworth, by his wife, who afterwards became the
celebrated Countess of Shrewsbury; in the other, in same manner, are
sculptured the earl’s empty coronet, robes of state, and sword, the
body being gone, of the first Earl of Devonshire, who was the second
son of the same Sir William Cavendish and the Countess of Shrewsbury.
In front stands an altar-tomb, on which rest the effigies of these
two brothers; that of the eldest (Henry Cavendish) represented as a
skeleton, and the other (William Cavendish, first Earl of Devonshire)
wrapped in a winding sheet, the heads being placed at opposite ends.
Over these effigies is a slab of marble, supported upon eight marble
pillars.
[Illustration: _Tomb of the Sixth Duke of Devonshire._]
In the churchyard are many interesting inscriptions, which the visitor
may well while away an hour or two in examining. Here, in a grassy
enclosure at the top of the churchyard, too, lies the “good duke,”
under a plain and simple coped tomb, with a foliated cross, and this
simple inscription on its south side:—
“William Spencer Cavendish,
Sixth Duke of Devonshire.
Born May 21, 1790. Died January 18, 1858.”
Near this, on a coped tomb, with a plain cross standing at the head,
is the following inscription to the mother of the present Duke of
Devonshire:—
“In the Faith and Peace of Christ, Here Resteth all that was Mortal of
Louisa Cavendish, Daughter of Cornelius, First Lord Lismore, widow of
William Cavendish, Eldest Son of George Henry Augustus, First Earl of
Burlington, and Mother of William, Seventh Duke of Devonshire. Born
August 5th, 1779. Died April 17th, 1863.
“‘As in Adam all die, even so in Christ shall all be made alive.’—1
Cor. xv. 22.”
And another is thus inscribed:—
“Henry George Cavendish. Born May 24, 1836. Died November 9, 1865.”
In the churchyard is the heavy tomb of Sir Joseph Paxton, sometime head
gardener at Chatsworth; it bears the following inscriptions:—
“In memory of Sir Joseph Paxton, born at Milton Bryant, Bedfordshire,
August IIIrd, MDCCCIII., died at Rockhills, Sydenham, June VIIIth,
MDCCCLXV., aged LXI. years.
“In memory of Laura, the lamented daughter of Sir Joseph and Lady
Paxton, who departed this life, January VIIIth, MDCCCLV., aged XVI.
years. ‘Her sun is gone down while it was yet day.’—Jer. xv. 9.
“In Memory of William, Son of Sir Joseph and Lady Paxton, who departed
this life Dec. XVIth, MDCCCXXXV., aged VII. years. ‘He shall gather
the lambs with his arm, and carry them in his bosom.’—Isaiah xl. 2.”
Among the other inscriptions, the following are particularly worth
noticing:—
“Of Stature Great,
Of Mind most Just,
Here lies Will Grumbold
In the Dust.
Who died 25 May, 1690.”
“Here lieth ye body of James Brousard, who departed this life April
the 10th, 1762, aged 76 yrs.
Also Sarah, ye wife of James Brousard, who departed this life February
ye 10th, 1765, aged 77 yrs.
Ful forty years as Gardener to ye D of Devenshire,
to propigate ye earth with plants it was is ful desire;
but then thy bones, alas, brave man, earth did no rest afoard,
but now wee hope ye are at rest with Jesus Christ our lord.”
“Here lieth the Body of William Dunthin, who departed this life
September the 12th, 1787, aged 21 years.
“I was like grass, cut down in haste, for fear too long should grow. I
hope made fit in heaven to sit, so why should I not go?”
Another, to William Mather, 1818, says:—
“When he that day with th’ Waggon went,
He little thought his Glass was spent;
But had he kept his Plough in Hand,
He might have longer till’d the Land.”
The CHATSWORTH HOTEL, at Edensor—the only one in the place—is
situate close outside the park gates, with an open space of ground in
front, and surrounded by the most magnificent of trees and the most
beautiful of scenery. It is fitted with every appliance for comfort;
has an excellent _cuisine_; is liberally and well conducted; has every
possible convenience of stabling and coach-houses; and is, altogether,
one of the most desirable and comfortable of hotels.
[Illustration: _The Chatsworth Hotel, Edensor._]
From this house, which is an excellent centre for tourists, for
enjoying the neighbourhood, and who have the magnificent park to stroll
about in at all hours, delightful excursions may be made to places in
the neighbourhood. Chatsworth is at hand; Haddon Hall is only some
three miles away for a walk, or six for a delightful drive, round by
way of Bakewell; Monsall Dale, Cressbrook Dale, Middleton Dale, and a
host of other “dales” are all within a short distance; and, indeed, a
radius of ten miles from the hotel takes in almost every well-known
beautiful or romantic spot of the district; while Buxton, with its
many attractions, and Dove-Dale, with all its beauties, are only a
little beyond this distance. It is, indeed, a district to revel in,
and the tourist who “pitches his tent” at the Chatsworth Hotel will be
conveniently placed for access to all.
We have spoken of Edensor, which closely adjoins one of the entrances
to Chatsworth Park. Near the other lodges are the picturesque villages
of Baslow and Beeley, to which we must pay passing attention.
BASLOW is a large and somewhat picturesque village; it lies on the
high road from Bakewell to Chesterfield, Sheffield, &c., and the river
Derwent runs through one part of it. The churchyard is skirted by the
river, and near it is a fine old bridge spanning the stream. The church
is a singular, but very picturesque old building, with a low tower and
broad spire at its north-west corner, and it possesses many features
worthy of careful examination. At Baslow are some very good inns, the
principal of which are the “Peacock” and the “Wheatsheaf.”
BEELEY, which the visitor will pass through on his way to Chatsworth
from the Rowsley Station, is a pretty little village, with a
quaint-looking old church, an elegant Gothic parsonage-house, and many
very pretty residences. Beeley Bridge, with the public lodge near it,
we have shown in one of our engravings, from a photograph by Green.
Of other places in the neighbourhood, some of which we have already
touched upon in our account of Haddon Hall, space will not permit us to
describe.
We take leave of “princely Chatsworth.” It is a place worthy of all
that can be said in its praise; and to its noble owner—one of the
kindliest, most enlightened, and liberal men of the age—we tender, not
only our own, but public thanks for the generous manner in which he
throws its beauties and its treasures open to the people.
INDEX.
Agard, Family of, 324.
Alnwick Castle, 78 to 115;
History of, 82 to 96, 101 to 110;
Situation, 81;
Family of Percy, 84 to 88, 96 to 100;
Description, 89;
Brislee Tower, 113;
Abbey, 110;
Moor, 82;
Hulne Abbey, 112.
Arcadia, Sidney’s, 178 to 180.
Ault Hucknall, 119, 146 to 152;
Church, 146, 147;
Monuments, 147, 148;
Hobbes’ Tomb, 119, 148.
Arundel, Earls of, 154 to 171.
Arundel Castle, 153 to 171;
History of, 153 to 157;
Situation, 162;
Interior, 163 to 166;
Dungeons, 166;
Horned Owls, 166;
Keep, 167;
Bevis’s Tower, 168;
Park, 168.
Arundel, Church of St. Martin, 168, 169;
Holy Trinity, 169, 170;
Maison Dieu, 170;
Monuments, 170, 171.
Alton Towers, 1 to 36;
Situation, 10, 25;
History of, 9, 10;
Gardens, 27 to 30;
Description of Interior, 12 to 25;
Park and Grounds, 26, 30;
Choragic Temple, 27;
Route to, 25;
Conservatories, 28, 29;
Stonehenge, 31;
Flag Tower, 32;
Ina’s Rock, 32;
Demon’s Dale, 36.
Alton Castle and Manor, 3 to 9, 32 to 36;
Hospital of St. John, 9, 25, 32 to 36;
Monuments in the Hospital of St. John, 35, 36;
Church, 9, 36.
All Fools’ Day, 34.
Albini, Family of, 154, 155.
Armada, 56.