As our caravan approached the Fullah country, and got into the higher
lands, where the air was invigorating, I found its pace improved so
much that we often exceeded twenty miles in our daily journey. The
next important place we were to approach was Jallica. For three days,
our path coasted the southern edge of a mountain range, whose
declivities and valleys were filled with rivers, brooks, and
streamlets, affording abundant irrigation to fields teeming with
vegetable wealth. The population was dense. Frequent caravans, with
cattle and slaves, passed us on their way to various marts. Our
supplies of food were plentiful. A leaf of tobacco purchased a fowl; a
charge of powder obtained a basin of milk, or a dozen of eggs; and a
large sheep cost only six cents, or a quart of salt.
Five days after quitting Tamisso, our approach to Jallica was
announced; and here, as at our last resting-place, it was deemed
proper to halt half a day for notice and ablution before entering a
city, whose chief--SUPHIANA--was a kinsman of Ali-Ninpha.
The distance from our encampment to the town was about three miles;
but an hour had hardly elapsed after our arrival, when the deep boom
of the war-drum gave token that our message had been received with
welcome. I was prepared, in some measure, for a display of no ordinary
character at Jallica, because my Mandingo friend, Ali-Ninpha,
inhabited the town in his youth, and had occupied a position which
gave importance to his name throughout Soolimana. The worthy fellow
had been absent many years from Jallica, and wept like a child when he
heard the sound of the war-drum. Its discordant beat had the same
effect on the savage that the sound of their village bells has on the
spirit of returning wanderers in civilized lands. When the rattle of
the drum was over, he told me that for five years he controlled that
very instrument in Jallica, during which it had never sounded a
retreat or betokened disaster. In peace it was never touched, save for
public rejoicing; and the authorities allowed it to be beaten _now_
only because an old commander of the tribe was to be received with the
honors due to his rank and service. Whilst we were still conversing,
Suphiana's lance-bearer made his appearance, and, with a profound
_salaam_, announced that the "gates of Jallica were open to the
Mandingo and his companions."
No _fanda_ or refreshments were sent with the welcome; but when the
caravan got within fifty yards of the walls, a band of shouting
warriors marched forth, and lifting Ali-Ninpha on their shoulders,
bore him through the gates, singing war-songs, accompanied by all
sorts of music and hubbub.
I had purposely lingered with my men in the rear of the great body of
Africans, so that nearly the whole caravan passed the portal before my
complexion--though deeply bronzed by exposure--made me known to the
crowd as a white man.
Then, instantly, the air rang with the sound of--"Furtoo! Furtoo!
Furtoo!"--and the gate was slammed in our faces, leaving us completely
excluded from guide and companions. But, in the midst of his exultant
reception, Ali-Ninpha did not forget the Mongo of Kambia. Hardly had
he attained the end of the street, when he heard the cry of exclusion,
and observed the closing portal. By this time, my Fullah friend had
wrought himself into an examplary fit of Oriental rage with the
inhospitable Mandingoes, so that I doubt very much whether he would
not have knocked the dust from his sandals on the gate of Jallica, had
not Ali-Ninpha rushed through the wicket, and commanding the portal
to be reopened, apologized contritely to the Mahometan and myself.
This unfortunate mistake, or accident, not only caused considerable
delay, but rather dampened the delight of our party as it defiled in
the spacious square of Jallica, and entered the open shed which was
called a "_palaver-house_." Its vast area was densely packed with a
fragrant crowd of old and young, armed with muskets or spears. All
wore knives or cutlasses, slung by a belt high up on their necks;
while, in their midst surrounded by a court of veterans, stood
Suphiana, the prince, waiting our arrival.
In front marched Ali-Ninpha, preceded by a numerous band of shrieking
and twanging minstrels. As he entered the apartment, Suphiana arose,
drew his sword, and embracing the stranger with his left arm, waved
the shining blade over his head, with the other. This peculiar
_accolade_ was imitated by each member of the royal council; while, in
the centre of the square, the war-drum,--a hollowed tree, four feet in
diameter, covered with hides,--was beaten by two savages with
slung-shot, until its thundering reverberations completely deafened
us.
You may imagine my joy and comfort when I saw the Mandingo take a seat
near the prince, as a signal for the din's cessation. This, however,
was only the commencement of another prolonged ceremonial; for now
began the royal review and salute in honor of the returned commander.
During two hours, an uninterrupted procession of all the warriors,
chiefs, and head-men of Jallica, defiled in front of the ancient
drum-major; and, as each approached, he made his obeisance by pointing
a spear or weapon at my landlord's feet. During this I remained on
horseback without notice or relief from the authorities. Ali-Ninpha,
however, saw my impatient discomfort, and once or twice despatched a
sly message to preserve my good humor. The ceremony was one of
absolute compulsion, and could not be avoided without discourtesy to
the prince and his countrymen. As soon as he could escape, however, he
hastened over the court-yard to assist me in dismounting; and dashing
the rude crowd right and left, led me to his kinsman Suphiana. The
prince extended his royal hand in token of amity; Ali-Ninpha declared
me to be his "son;" while the long string of compliments and
panegyrics he pronounced upon my personal qualities, moral virtues,
and _wealth_, brought down a roar of grunts by way of applause from
the toad-eating courtiers.
* * * * *
Jallica was a fairer town than any I had hitherto encountered in my
travels. Its streets were wider, its houses better, its people more
civil. No one intruded on the friend of Ali-Ninpha, and guest of
Suphiana. I bathed without visits from inquisitive females. My house
was my castle; and, when I stirred abroad, two men preceded me with
rattans to keep my path clear from women and children.
After lounging about quietly for a couple of days, wearing away
fatigue, and getting rid of the stains of travel, I thought it
advisable to drop in one morning, unannounced, after breakfast, at
Suphiana's with the presents that are customary in the east. As the
guest,--during my whole journey,--of the Ali-Mami, or King of
Footha-Yallon, I was entirely exempt by customary law from this
species of tax, nor would my Fullah protector have allowed me to offer
a tribute had he known it;--yet, I always took a secret opportunity to
present a _voluntary gift_, for I wished my memory to smell sweet
along my track in Africa. Suphiana fully appreciated my generosity
under the circumstances, and returned the civility by an invitation to
dinner at the house of his principal wife. When the savory feast with
which he regaled me was over, female singers were introduced for a
concert. Their harps were triangles of wood, corded with fibres of
cane; their banjoes consisted of gourds covered with skin pierced by
holes, and strung like the harps; but, I confess, that I can neither
rave nor go into ecstasies over the combined effect which saluted me
from such instruments or such voices. I was particularly struck,
however, by one of their inventions, which slightly resembles the
_harmonica_ I have seen played by children in this country. A board,
about two feet square, was bordered by a light frame at two ends,
across which a couple of cane strings were tightly stretched. On
these, strips of nicely trimmed bamboo, gradually diminishing in size
from left to right, were placed; whilst beneath them, seven gourds,
also gradually decreasing, were securely fastened to mellow the sound.
The instrument was carried by a strap round the player's neck, and was
struck by two small wooden hammers softened by some delicate
substance.
One of the prettiest girls in the bevy had charge of this African
piano, and was said to be renowned for uncommon skill. Her feet,
hands, wrists, elbows, ankles, and knees, were strung with small
silvery bells; and, as the gay damsel was dancer and singer as well as
musician, she seemed to reek with sound from every pore. Many of her
attitudes would probably have been, at least, more picturesque and
decent for drapery; but, in Jallica, MADOO, the _ayah_, was considered
a Mozart in composition, a Lind in melody, and a Taglioni on the
"light fantastic toe!"
When the performance closed, Suphiana presented her a slave; and, as
she made an obeisance to me in passing, I handed her my _bowie-knife_,
promising to redeem it at my lodgings with _ten pounds of tobacco_!
* * * * *
Some superstitious notions about the state of the moon prevented my
Fullah guide from departing as soon as I desired; but while we were
dallying with the planet, Ali-Ninpha became so ill that he was
compelled to halt and end the journey in his favorite Jallica. I
rather suspected the Mandingo to feign more suffering than he really
experienced, and I soon discovered that his malady was nothing but a
sham. In truth, Ali-Ninpha had duped so many Fullah traders on the
beach, and owed them the value of so many slaves, that he found it
extremely inconvenient; if not perilous, to enter the domain of the
ALI-MAMI OF FOOTHA-YALLON!