Nearly nineteen hundred years ago there dawned in Jerusalem, that
once-favored city, the glorious morning of the Resurrection. This Holy
City has not vanished from the face of the earth, but still stands a
silent witness of the scene so dear to humanity that was once enacted
there.
All over the Christian world, wherever it is celebrated, Easter brings
its wondrous tide of joy and gladness, but in Jerusalem it is observed
with great rejoicings. That city is now, even as it was of old, the
resort of thousands of pilgrims from every quarter of the globe, who
come to spend Easter within its ancient walls. These visitors differ
from one another in ideas, manners, language, and costume, and yet have
a certain unity in the purpose for which they have assembled.
Every pilgrim wends his way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which
is, according to tradition, the tomb of our Saviour. This church is a
large building, with beautiful belfries, its front is richly sculptured,
and though time-worn and gray, it presents a magnificent appearance. It
is now always crowded with pilgrims from every clime, of every race and
color, worshipping at the various shrines.
Six different denominations--Roman Catholic, Greek, Armenians, Syrians,
Copts, and Maronites--perform their services in their own rites and
language in this church, so that a spectator can see almost every
nationality represented there in its own peculiar costume.
Jerusalem is a little world in itself at this time of the year. The
streets are very gay and crowded. Merchants from Damascus and other
places come hither, bringing wares of various kinds, which they display
in the stores. Life and activity are the characteristics of this season.
The Mohammedans, also, celebrate the death of Moses at this time, and
the streets are filled with their pilgrim processions, consisting of men
and boys with drums, tabors, cymbals, and tambourines, which combine to
produce a peculiarly barbarous sound. Then come dervishes, with long
dishevelled hair, carrying spears and hatchets, dancing, leaping, and
feigning to cut themselves with swords. Following all these is a mixed
crowd of men, women, and children shouting, singing, and clapping their
hands. Thus they proceed to the supposed tomb of Moses, which the
Mohammedans have located on the western side of the Jordan.
Eggs beautifully colored are seen in almost every store, and hundreds of
children crowd round them, buying as many as they can. Then they get
together, and see who can win the most eggs by breaking both ends with
one strong egg. These eggs are hard boiled, and when broken are eaten by
the children, or sold to each other for a mere nothing.
On Good-Friday the Protestant residents (German, English, and American)
go out to the Garden of Gethsemane, and hold a short religious service
under the ancient olive-trees, singing favorite old hymns.
Easter-morning services are held in the quaint Gothic English church,
which is then often crowded with American and English tourists. The hymn
"Jesus Christ is risen to-day, Hallelujah!" is sung with fervor; and
when the clergyman reads the lesson for the day, one can almost picture
to himself how Christ, nineteen hundred years ago, walked through this
very city, blessing just such little children as those who now throng
the streets selling bright flowers.
In the Church of the Holy Sepulchre services are conducted all Saturday
night until Sunday at dawn, when hundreds of bells ring out their chimes
that the Saviour is risen. The church is so crowded as to leave barely
standing room, and the vast multitude, led by the priests and
accompanied by the rich peals of the organ, sing the hymn of the
Resurrection. After the blessing is pronounced, the congregation salute
each other with "Christ is risen!--may we live to celebrate this feast
another year!"
Easter-tide in Jerusalem is the children's great festival, more so than
Christmas, because they receive more presents at this "Great Feast," as
it is there called. Every child, rich and poor, has a new outfit made
for this day, and cakes and candies in abundance. Besides the gorgeously
tinted eggs there are bright-colored cards and other tokens suitable to
the day, and amusements of every description are arranged.
Easter picnics continue during the two following weeks. The fields are
at this time of the year all green with half-ripe grain, and bright
flowers are seen everywhere. Nature is clothed in her gayest robes of
beauty. In order to make these picnics more enjoyable for the children,
many families and schools have a fashion of hiding brilliant eggs,
colored in red, blue, yellow, pink, purple, and gold, among the mossy
rocks and in the green grass amongst the flowers. The children are then
sent to hunt for them, and a great deal of merriment is excited as they
eagerly rush about, each one trying to find the most.
So to a Jerusalem child Easter is always associated with a crowded city
of strangers from all parts of the world, clear blue skies, and bright
green fields filled with beautiful flowers. Everybody rejoices and
commemorates the glorious resurrection of the Son of Man, who, like
themselves, was once a child in this very city, and witnessed similar
scenes, when strangers came from afar to celebrate the Feast of the
Passover at Jerusalem.