PROVINCE OF MARANHAM.

_First Donatory--Shipwreck of Persons intended for its

Colonization--Establishment of the French--Retaken--Foundation

of Capital--Taken by the Dutch--Retaken--Agricultural

Company--Boundaries--Rivers, Ports, and Islands--Mineralogy

--Phytology--Zoology--Indians--Povoaçoes--City of Maranham--

Commerce--Exports of Produce._

John III. was more peculiarly attentive to the prosperity and

improvement of the Brazil, than any other of the Portuguese sovereigns,

with the exception of the present monarch, John VI. whose salutary

administration of power in the Transatlantic part of his dominions,

may be regarded as the result of those important events in Europe,

which led to the removal of the Royal Family to this region, and the

consequent introduction of a more liberal intercourse with other

nations. But these benefits are but the dawnings of future civilization

and improvement.

John III. in pursuance of his good wishes towards the Brazil,

determined to partition the coast into capitanias, and that denominated

Maranhao, was presented by his Majesty to the historian Joam de Barros.

It is probable that this part of the coast had acquired that name from

the circumstance of V. Y. Pinson, after his discovery of Cape St.

Augustin, having entered a gulf or the mouth of a great river, which

was unquestionably the Amazons, and whose waters not possessing the

saline qualities of the ocean, he called Mara-non, (not sea.) Hence

followed the Portuguese denomination of this territory Maranhao, and

Maranham by the English, resulting from the false notion which the

Portuguese at first entertained that it was the great river. Its

donatory, Joam de Barros, being a man of noble spirit, and determined

to do the utmost for the colonization of this important donation,

united with his own inadequate means those of the Cavalheiros Fernando

Alvarez and Ayres da Cunha. It was unanimously agreed that Ayres da

Cunha should be intrusted with the settlement of the colony, which

sailed from Lisbon in 1535, consisting of nine hundred persons,

including two sons of the donatory, with the important addition of one

hundred and thirteen horses.

This armament, comprising ten vessels, and considered the most powerful

that had sailed for a long period from the Tagus, was unfortunately

wrecked upon the shoals which surround the island of Maranham. Some

persons escaped to the island of Medi or Boqueirao at the entrance

of the bay; but which not being adapted for the foundation of the

colony, they abandoned and returned to Portugal by the first vessel

that appeared, excepting one individual, a blacksmith, called Pedro,

or Pero, who remained among the Indians, and rendered himself highly

important and exceedingly useful to them, in consequence of the variety

of instruments he constructed of the iron taken from the fragments of

the wreck that were washed upon the beach. A daughter of a cacique, or

prince, was bestowed upon him in marriage, by whom he had two sons,

both called Pedros, or Peros, from which the Indians thought the

Portuguese all had this name, and they usually gave that nation the

appellation of Peros.

The severe disappointment which Barros sustained, not only in the

loss of his property but of his two sons, by this terrible disaster,

deterred him from making any further attempt. And the same monarch gave

this territory to Luiz de Mello, and furnished him with three ships and

two caravels, that he might the more effectually execute his project,

which was to penetrate by the river Amazons as far as the eastern

mines of Peru. He was not, however, much less unfortunate than Ayres

da Cunha, the whole of the armament being lost near the same place,

excepting one caravel that escaped, and with which he returned to

Lisbon. These misfortunes attending the vessels that entered even the

best anchorage place of this province discouraged all those persons who

were capable of colonizing its fertile land, but did not prevent its

being visited by other nations.

In the year 1594 M. Rifault, a Frenchman, entered the port of Maranham

with three sail, where he left Charles Vaux and a small number of

his crew. This weak colony was reinforced in the year 1612 by M.

Ravardiere. Two years afterwards Jeronimo d’Albuquerque Coelho was

despatched from Pernambuco by order of the governor, Gaspar de Souza,

to expel those intruders, over whom, after some attacks, he gained

very little advantage, by a capitulation which he entered into with

them. Alexandre de Moura, who arrived there the following year with a

strong force, proposed, instead of the capitulation, the evacuation

of the place by the French, to which their commander, from the weak

condition of the colony, was under the necessity of acceding. This

event, occurring on the 1st of November, induced Moura to give the name

of Todos os Santos to the island, which it did not however long retain.

Jeronimo d’Albuquerque was left here by Alexandre de Moura with the

post of captao-mor, and was instructed to found a povoaçao and continue

the conquest of this new province on account of the government. He

preferred the situation which had been selected by the French, where

he commenced the capital, in the increase and defence of which he was

occupied till the year 1618, when he died, and was succeeded by his

son, Antonio d’Albuquerque, as temporary governor for more than a year,

when Domingos da Costa Machado was appointed to this situation. In

the beginning of his government Jorge de Lemos arrived there with two

hundred families from the Azores, in three vessels, at his own cost.

In 1621 there was a very great mortality amongst the domestic Indians,

caused by the small pox. Part of this loss was remedied in the same

year by the transmission of forty families, also from the islands

of the Azores, by the provedor-mor, Antonio Ferraira Bitancourt, in

pursuance of an arrangement made with the crown.

Antonio Moniz Barreiros succeeded to this government in 1622, to whom

the senate, in the name of the people, presented a requisition that he

would not consent to the establishment of the Jesuits there, as it was

thought the introduction of their principles among the Indians would

not be favourable to the colonists. He established two sugar works,

in accomplishment of the obligation his father, of the same name, was

under from being appointed provedor-mor of the treasury at Bahia.

Some time before Barreiros began his government the court of Madrid (in

1621) resolved to form the conquests of Maranham into a new state of

the same name, and for its governor was nominated D. Diogo de Carcoma,

whose refusal occasioned the appointment of D. Francisco de Moura. This

individual not going, Francisco Coelho de Carvalho was elected, who

sailed from the Tagus in March, 1624, and disembarked at Pernambuco,

where the irruptions of the Dutch detained him nearly two years, so

that he did not arrive at the capital of Maranham till 1626, having

previously taken possession of the fort of Siara, which then formed a

part of this province. In the following year he visited the province

of Grand Para and entered the bay of Gurupy, where he established a

povoaçao, which he called Vera Cruz, and died in the twelfth year of

his government.

In 1641, when John IV. again had an ambassador at the Dutch court,

which had recognised him as the legitimate sovereign of Portugal, a

Dutch vessel arrived at Maranham, under the pretence of having been

driven there by a violent tempest, and requested that assistance which

in such cases is customary for friendly nations to afford to each

other. The credulous friendship of the governor was taken advantage

of by the Dutch, who suddenly possessed themselves of the capital,

and with facility subjugated the rest of the province; from whence,

however, they were expelled by the Portuguese in 1643.

All the governors of this province had not the titles of

captains-general of the state; occasionally Grand Para enjoyed this

pre-eminence. All proceedings that admitted of appeal after the

sentence of the magistrates, in all the provinces, were always referred

to the court, and their bishops immediately upon creation became

suffragans of the metropolitan of Lisbon.

The subjection of the Portuguese nation to a foreign sceptre, the

pretensions of the Dutch to the Brazil, afterwards the prolonged war

preceding the reversion of the crown, and, finally, the alleged long

existing destructive abuses of the Braganza family, are adduced as

plausible reasons for the unflourishing state of the Brazil for nearly

a century and a half.

With the change of hemisphere the first colonists are also said to

have changed their customs, entering into the pursuits of agriculture

with no spirit, alike regarding improvement and instruction with

indifference, and preferring the idiom of the barbarous Tupinambas to

their own. The various Jesuitical missionaries, however, made great

progress in the conversion of the Indians, and in which they would have

been more successful had not the colonists degenerated so much and

relaxed in their obedience to the laws. The Portuguese language began

to be generally used in the year 1755, and at this epoch agriculture

assumed a more flourishing aspect, in consequence of the creation of

a public company, which included the province of Para. Its capital

amounted to one million two hundred thousand crusades, which was

raised by twelve hundred shares; the possession of ten shares rendered

each individual eligible to the administration of the affairs of the

company, which was decried by some as introductory of ignorance and a

system of destruction.

This province is bounded on the north by the ocean, on the west by the

province of Para, on the south by those of Goyaz and Piauhy, and on

the east by the latter. It is of a triangular form, extending nearly

four hundred miles from north to south on its western side, and about

three hundred and fifty miles from west to east along the coast, lying

between 1° and 7½° south latitude. Its vicinity to the equator renders

the climate hot. The thunderstorms introduce the winter season, which

begin in the southern districts about the month of October, where the

longest day is twelve hours and a half. In the northern part of the

province there is scarcely any difference between the day and night all

the year. The country is mostly uneven, but without any mountains of

considerable elevation. It has large and numerous rivers, and is mainly

covered with woods, affording a variety and abundance of excellent

timber.

RIVERS, PORTS, AND ISLANDS.--About two miles within the bar

of the channel of Tutoya, (the western branch of the river Parnahyba

and the eastern limits of this province,) the river of the same name

is discharged, after a short course, being only of note as far as the

tide ascends. In front of its mouth is a small island, which forms an

anchorage place.

Fifteen miles to the west of Tutoya bar is the Perguicas, which is

large, and affords good anchorage for small vessels within the eastern

point. Following a handsome beach of white sand for about thirty miles,

denominated the Lancoes, and at its termination another of about twelve

miles, covered with mangroves, is the river Marim, which flows through

a fertile soil and is discharged by three mouths. Passing the western

mouth of this river the coast changes its direction to the south-west,

and forms a gulf or bay of about thirty-five miles in extent, in which

is situated the island of Maranham, (twenty miles long from north-east

to south-west, and fifteen at its greatest width,) forming, with the

continent, two bays, one to the east, called St. Joze, and the other to

the west, St. Marcos, each about six miles in width, communicating by a

narrow strait, denominated the river Mosquito, fifteen miles long, and

separating the island from the continent: this island, almost covered

with woods, has some eminences and fifteen perennial streams.

Seven miles beyond the Marim the Perea discharges itself, and is

navigable for a considerable distance. Almost in front of it is an

island of the same name, near to which is another, called Raza, and not

far distant that of St. Anna. The river Moconandiva follows, and after

it the Mamuna, which is discharged by two mouths, the western one being

called Aragatuba; the interval between it and the Perea, about twelve

miles, is an archipelago. Twenty-eight miles further is discharged

the large river Mony, which originates about twenty-five miles from

the margin of the Parnahyba, and six miles above its mouth receives

the Iguara, which waters a country where the necessaries of life are

only partially cultivated. Three miles west of the Mony is the vast

embouchure of the large river Itapicuru, being the most considerable

of the province. It originates in the district of Balsas, the most

southern portion of Maranham, where it already assumes the appearance

of a large river, running north-east to Cachias, one hundred miles

above which it receives on the left the Alpercatas, of equal size,

and which comes from the territory of the Tymbyra Indians, whither it

affords navigation to canoes. In Cachias it changes its direction to

the north-west, and passes by two parishes of the same name, where the

tide and the navigation of large barks with the sail terminate. Its

current is rapid and the course winding, generally through extensive

woods. The fishermen who use the line about the heads of this river,

occasionally catch a species of small eel whose electric powers are

greater than the _torpedo_, conveying its influence up the line

and rod, and benumbing the arm, so that it cannot be moved; this

electrical effect is attributed to a stone the fish has in its head,

and which is much esteemed by the superstitious, who attach many

virtues to it. Humboldt tried many interesting experiments with this

fish, whose electric fire is exhausted after many discharges; amongst

other trials of its power were the driving horses into a pond and

compelling them to withstand the gradually decreasing shocks of a great

many of them. The two last rivers enter the bay of St. Joze.

About twenty miles further west, at the bottom of the bay of St.

Marcos and the same distance south-west of the capital is the mouth

of the large river Meary, or Mearim, sometimes called Maranham, which

originates also in the southern part of the province, describing

numerous windings, and increasing by the addition of various streams,

among which is the Grajehu. Its bed is deep and wide, and the current

so rapid that it suspends the progress of the tide for a considerable

period, and produces by this opposition an extraordinary agitation

of the waters, which is called _Pororocas_; when the tide has

vanquished its opponent it flows up for three hours with astonishing

rapidity. This phenomenon occupies a space of nearly fifteen

miles, occasioning a loud noise, and there are situations, called

_esperas_, where canoes wait until the tide re-advances, and then

continue their voyage without danger. This large river, which has the

least depth at its extended mouth where vessels can only enter with the

tide, affords navigation to the centre of the province, where a large

fall interrupts it. It traverses the territories of the Gamella Indians

and other barbarous nations. In the vicinity of the sea it flows

through fine campinhas of fertile land, where cattle are raised, a

diversity of the necessaries of life, and cotton. One of its principal

and last confluents is the Pinnare, up which small craft proceed to

the town of Vianna. The coast beyond the Mearim inclines to the north,

forming a bay ten miles in extent, about fifteen miles beyond which is

the bay of Cuma, nine miles long and three wide, open to the east, and

receiving the river Piracunan.

Twenty miles further is the bay called Cabello da Velha, six miles

wide, nearly of equal length, and receiving the river Cururupu. Its

entrance is between two small islands surrounded with dangerous shoals.

In the proximity of the shore, half way between the two last bays,

is a file of five islands, thickly covered with woods; the largest

is about four miles in length. About twenty miles further, the coast

being bordered by the same number of islands, is the embouchure of the

Turynana, which has an extensive course and here affords good anchorage

for small vessels. In front of this is the island of St. Joam, the most

westerly of those alluded to; it is ten miles long from north-east to

south-west, flat, covered with woods, and occupied by birds and wild

quadrupeds. A profound channel, three miles in width, separates it from

the continent; near its north-eastern point there is safe anchorage.

Further westward is the vast bay of Turyvassu, the limits of the

province on the side of Para. It receives a river of the same name,

after flowing a great distance through extensive woods. The Indians,

who, under various appellations had the dominion of the island of

Maranham and the adjoining continent, were Tupinambas, and divided into

small tribes.

MINERALOGY.--Calcareous stone, copperas, alum, iron, lead, and silver,

antimony, amianthus, saltpetre, mineral salt, crystals, grindstone, and

quarries or rocks of granite.

PHYTOLOGY.--The Asiatic cocoa-nut tree grows sparingly, and only along

the coast. The pine is common, and fructifies in perfection. From the

fruit of the _mamona_ is extracted almost all the oil which is used for

lights. Here are trees of gum copal, storax, mastick, bensoin, dragons’

blood, the oil of cupahyba, or capivi, the _arariba_, from whose bark

is extracted a beautiful crimson colour, the _barbatimoe_, cajue-nut

_ambuzo_, cocoa, _jabuticaba_, _mangaba_, _aracaza_, _babonilha_,

_butua_, ginger, jalap, ipecacuanha, and the palm. The cane prospers in

many situations, but its culture has been supplanted by that of cotton,

which constitutes the main article of exportation, and the principal

wealth of the country. Amongst resinous trees is also the _sucuba_,

the gum of which passes for the ammoniac of the Levant. The deity who

presides over grain, the lifesustaining Ceres, has here but little

influence, and rice only is cultivated, but to a very great extent;

the soil is equally well adapted to the produce of Indian corn. The

irregularity of the seasons does not permit the cultivation of wheat,

rye, or barley. Water-melons, melons, and pine-apples are excellent.

The indigenous banana tree produces fruit in immense profusion and of

the best quality.

ZOOLOGY.--Cattle, sheep, and goats multiply here better than

in the countries from which they were imported, but do not improve in

size nor in the flavour of their meat, neither are they very numerous,

with the exception of the first. Mules are bred here, also hogs, equal

to the consumption of the country. All the species of wild animals

are met with, peculiar to the eastern provinces. The _moco_ is

numerous in all parts. The birds of the plains, woods, and lakes, known

in the other districts, are common here; and the handsome _guara_

abound in the proximity of the sea. There is in this part of South

America a particular species of silk worm, more prolific than the

ordinary kinds of Bombay or Persia. The colour of the silk is a dark

yellow, and might be rendered a considerable branch of commerce,

in consequence of the facility which would attend its abundant

cultivation, if any adequate attention was afforded to it. The insect

receives its nourishment from leaves of the orange and the pine tree,

or _atta_, which is common in its native country.

All the territory lying between the rivers Itapicuru and the Parnahyba

has been for many years evacuated by the Indians, as well as the

northern part of that to the west of the first river, and is more or

less inhabited by whites, and Christianized Indians, mainly occupied in

the cultivation of mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes, and above all

in the two vegetable articles of exportation, rice and cotton, almost

all the labour being performed by the hands of negroes, who exceed by

many times the number of the others. Families live for the most part

dispersed. A certain proportion of land, where each cultivator dwells,

generally with all his family and slaves, is of itself considered an

aldeia. There are few aldeias compared with the extent of the province,

having any considerable number of families, with the exception of those

which have been created parishes, many comprising sixty miles or more

of district. Excellent nets used for sleeping, and some coarse cottons,

made into dresses, generally for slaves, are manufactured here.

The southern portion of the western district of this province is

still in the possession of the Indians, as well as a great extent

of the central part. The most northern tribe, bordering upon the

Portuguese, are called by them the _Gamel__las_, in consequence of

their prevailing custom of perforating and distending the under lip,

with a sort of calabash, or round piece of wood, which produces some

resemblance to a small gamella, or wooden bowl. They cultivate various

necessaries of life, and live in cabanas, when they are not out upon

their hunting excursions, or gathering wild fruits. Their arms are the

bow and arrow, and a club of hard wood, denominated a _mataranna_,

cornered at the thicker end and pointed at the other.

The Timbyras occupy the country to the south of them, and are divided

into two hordes, one denominated Timbyras da Matta, (of the wood,)

from living in the interior of forests; the other, Timbyras de Canella

Fina, from the delicate form of their legs. They rove in the desert

plains, and are of such amazing velocity, that they equal the swiftness

of the horse. All use a bow made of a species of small club, and

another large one of violet wood, and flat. Those of the woods have in

their territory a large lake, and mines of salt, which they use, and

cultivate mandioca and other necessaries, also some cotton, of which

they make their hammocks. They distil various beverages, more or less

inebriating, which last only for a short time, arising as much from

the quality as the excess with which they use them. From the period

they begin to drink them, till they are finished, are days of folly,

dedicated to tumultuous dancing and dissension.

Proceeding southward, the Manajos are met with, who are of a white

complexion, and occupy a country to the west of Balsas, extending

themselves to the margin of the Tucantins, where they receive the

name of Temembos. In their vicinity dwell the Bus and Cupinharos.

The territory bounding this province and Para is inhabited by the

Gê Indians, who are divided into five tribes, distinguished by the

appellations of Auge, Crange, Cannacatage, Poncatage, and Paycoge, and

almost without any difference of language or customs.

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