_Colonization--Reduction of the Indians--Extent--Mountains
--Rivers and Lakes--Mineralogy--Zoology--Phytology--Povoações._
The conquest and colonization of this province was commenced in the
government of Christovam de Barros, deputy-governor of Bahia, in 1590,
in consequence of orders which he received from King Philip II. at the
request of the inhabitants between Rio Real and Itapicuru, who lived in
a state of great inquietude, as well from the Indians of the country as
the French pirates, who frequented the coast in search of Brazil wood.
It was for a considerable period a district of Bahia.
After a century had elapsed, it began to have ouvidors about the year
1696, at which period its diminutive population, involved in anarchy
by a faction of some of the leading persons, disregarded entirely
the orders of the governor-general. The leaders were prosecuted; but
they obtained pardon of their Sovereign, upon condition of subjecting
the Tupinambazes of the country, who had always been a considerable
obstacle to the augmentation of the colony. They succeeded in
subjugating the Indians in part, and the rest were reduced afterwards
by the exertions of the Jesuitical missionaries, and established
in various aldeias. This province has nearly ninety miles of coast
from the Rio Real, which divides it from that of Bahia, to the St.
Francisco, which separates it from Pernambuco, and nearly one hundred
and forty miles in width, terminating almost in an angle at the small
river Xingo, about eight miles below the great fall of Paulo Affonso.
It may be considered as divided into two parts--eastern and western.
The first, which is about forty miles in width, is commonly
distinguished by the appellation of Mattas, in consequence of its
extensive woods, which are, however, diminishing considerably from
the axe of the cultivator of the sugar cane and cotton tree; and
the western part, which is larger, has acquired the denomination of
Agrestes, from the sterility of its soil, commonly stony, with few
woods or fertile lands, and very deficient in water.
The Agrestes, if we except some portions, principally in the proximity
of the river St. Francisco, even where there are only small aldeias,
besides the town of Propiba, and the parish of St. Pedro, is almost
generally uncultivated, affording only scanty pasturage for cattle,
a great part of which perish from hunger and thirst when the winter
season passes over without much rain, as in the summer season scarcely
the smallest rivulet or perennial fount is met with. In the eastern
part or Mattas, where the rains are more frequent, the soil is
substantial and fertile, and the country presents a more agreeable
aspect of woods and partially cultivated lands.
MOUNTAINS.--The face of this province is generally flat, and,
although uneven, there is scarcely one small hill or mountain of any
considerable elevation; that of Itabayanna is the only remarkable one
between the Rio Real and the Vazabarris, and, although thirty miles
from the coast, is discovered at a great distance from the sea. Upon
its summit there is a lake that is never dry, and from this mountain,
which is affirmed to be rich in gold, various pure streams descend,
forming a handsome river.
In the western part is the Serra Negra, little higher than its
surrounding plains, and the Serra Tabanga, whose base is bathed by the
St. Francisco, with which it is prolonged.
RIVERS AND LAKES.--The Rio Real, which has about one hundred
and forty miles of course, is precipitated by various falls, and only
affords navigation to the first, thirty miles from the sea; from this
fall, downwards, to which the tide advances, the river is wide and
deep, but above it is small, and its tributary heads are frequently
dried up. It enters the sea twenty-five miles north-east of the
Itapicuru, and receives, in the vicinity of its embouchure, the rivers
Saguim, Guararema, and Piauhy, all by the left margin.
The Cotindiba is considerable only for the space of eighteen miles,
which the tide advances up, affords sufficient depth for sumacas, is
of great width, has its margins covered with mangroves, and, in the
vicinity of the sea, with white sand, adorned in parts with very fine
cocoa-nut trees. The greatest part of the sugar of this province is
exported by the dangerous embouchure of this river, about eighteen
miles to the north-east of Vazabarris, the shoals in front of which
occasion a furious agitation of the sea, and it is only experienced
navigators that can conduct sumacas with safety over the bar.
The Seregipe, which gives the name to this province, is larger and
navigable for a greater space than the Cotindiba, with which it runs
almost parallel, until united with it by the left margin, eight miles
from the sea. In the interior of the country it is inconsiderable.
Serigp was its original name, and which it retained for many years
after the conquest of the country.
The Vazabarris, after a long course, discharges itself into the famous
bay of the same name, and affords navigation to smacks, with the aid of
the tide, for twenty miles. It is twenty-five miles north-east of Rio
Real, and Irapirang was its original name.
The Japaratuba is smaller than all the preceding rivers, and empties
itself by two mouths, twenty-five miles to the north-east of the
Cotindiba, and about the same distance to the south-west of the St.
Francisco. Though the tide runs up for many leagues, it only affords
navigation to canoes, in consequence of the little depth at its
entrance.
The Poxim, which rises near the Vazabarris, and runs into the
Cotindiba, near the sea, is navigable for canoes, which proceed many
leagues up with the tide. In the vicinity of the river St. Francisco
there are various lakes of great extent, upon the margins of which
numerous collections of birds assemble, such as the _colhereira_,
_jaburu_, _sabacu_, _caroe_, _carauna_, and the heron; upon the
centre of their waters are seen immense flocks of wild ducks, and
the _mingua_, a species of diver, which conceals the body below the
surface, showing only its head, and part of its extraordinary neck,
appearing like a snake.
MINERALOGY.--Flint, potters’ clay, lime, and grindstone, a black
ferruginous stone, gold, marine salt, crystals, slate, and blue stone.
ZOOLOGY.--There are all the species of domestic and wild animals of
the neighbouring provinces. The anta is rare; the ounce has almost
disappeared in the eastern part; deer are numerous, and the red
_guariba_ monkey. In all parts there are great quantities of bees of
various kinds. There are many _tatubollas_, or _armadillos_, upon the
left margin of the St. Francisco, which have been observed on being
brought to the right bank frequently to die, or never to multiply.
In the river St. Francisco there is a sort of fishing sparrowhawk,
which dives in order to surprise the fish that descend the river; but
when the prize is of a weight superior to its strength, it dies from
suffocation, not being able to disengage itself. The wood-turkey is
here very common, as is the small _pavao_, or peacock.
PHYTOLOGY.--Amongst other trees which afford timber for building and
joiners’ work, are the _sucupira_, iron wood, cedar, _sapucaya_,
_jiquitiba_, _uruçuca_, white and green _batinga_, similar to the
box-tree, _conduru_, _gaiduno_, _quiri_, _itapicuru_, _pausangue_,
(blood wood,) _juciranna_, _vinhatica_, _ejitahy_, _gonçalo alves_,
_putumuju_, masculine and feminine, _arapiraca_, bow wood, _jinipapo_,
mastick, _biriba_, of the bark of which tow is made for caulking.
Amongst the medicinal plants, there are ipecacuanha, _alcasus_,
_paroba_, Jesuits’ bark, orange tree of the country, _cassia_,
and _sanguinaria_. Orange and other fruit trees are very scarce.
Baunilha is a useful vegetable, and grows here spontaneously, but its
cultivation is not attended to. The cocoa tree is unknown, although the
soil is well adapted for it. The coffee tree, which is such a lucrative
branch of commerce to its cultivators in the provinces of Bahia and Rio
de Janeiro, is yet seen in few places, and there scantily.
Upon the margins of the river St. Francisco there is a tree, for whose
primitive name was substituted that of _mancanzeira_ by the
Portuguese; the largest do not exceed the size of an orange tree, and
generally have many trunks together of little height, with the leaf
larger than those of a lemon tree, thick, elliptical, smooth, and of a
dark green. In the same tree there is fruit in the form of a lemon-peel
and a fig; but the greater part, and principally the largest, have the
figure of large tomates, the size of a wild apple, the rind soft and
full of pimples. The pulp is yellow, of an insipid taste, bitter, and
smells like a quince. The smallest have an oval stone; the largest
have four or more: the rind is hard, the kernel white and bitter. This
fruit is not eaten, but is excellent as preserves, made similar to
marmalade. This tree, which never surpasses a shrub in dry lands, is
always heavily laden; and the troquaze pigeon and the land tortoise
become fat upon the stones, after the fruit falls to the ground. The
eastern portion of this province is in part appropriated to mandioca,
Indian corn, feijao, cotton, and the sugar cane, for which there are
near three hundred engenhos; these are objects of exportation as
well as hides, flintstone, grindstone, cattle, horses, hogs, and the
_ticum_ palm. In this part there are extensive tracts almost
covered with a small cane, with the leaves short, not exceeding the
width of the wheat leaf, and the knots armed with sharp points, so
that no quadruped enters or traverses the plantations. The oil of
_mamona_ is universally used for lights, and might become an
abundant branch of exportation. The water-melon in few districts is
large or good.
The towns of this province are,
Seregipe }
St. Amaro }
St. Luzia } in the eastern part.
Itabaianna }
Villa Nova }
Propiha }
Lagarto } in the western part.
Thomar }
Seregipe, or St. Christovam, capital of the province, the residence
of its governor and ouvidor, and having the title of a city, is well
situated upon an elevation near the river Paramopama, which is an arm
of the Vazabarris, eighteen miles from the sea, but does not surpass
a town in a state of mediocrity. It has a convent of St. Franciscans,
another of slippered Carmelites, and two Terceira orders attached to
them; a chapel of Our Lady of Rozario, for the blacks; another of
Amparo, for the mulattoes; a house of misericordia, a good town house,
and a large bridge. All the public edifices are of stone. It has royal
professors of the primitives and Latin, and abundance of good water.
The orange, mango, and banana trees grow in its vicinity. Sumacas come
up the river as far as this place to take in sugar and some cotton.
This city, which was destroyed by the Dutch on the 25th of December,
1637, eight sugar works then in the province sharing the same fate,
had its commencement upon the left margin and two miles above the
embouchure of the Cotindiba, where yet are the ruins of the church
called St. Christovam. It was removed from thence to a site between the
river Poxim and the Cotindiba, situated at an equal distance from its
first foundation and the place where it now stands.
St. Amaro, so called from the patron of its mother church, is a small
town, thinly populated, and without commerce, although well situated
and enjoying salubrious air, about one mile north of the confluence of
the rivers Seregipe and Cotindiba.
Five miles west of it, the aldeia of Moruim, in the extremity of an
arm of the Seregipe, is the depôt for a considerable quantity of sugar
cases, and has a small market on Saturdays.
St. Luzia, agreeably situated upon a height near the river
Guararema, (uniting itself eight miles lower with the Rio Real,) is
inconsiderable, has a church dedicated to the same saint, a chapel of
the Lady of Rozario, and exports the productions of the surrounding
country.
Ten miles distant from it, the povoaçao of Estancia, the most populous
and commercial of the whole province, without excepting the capital, is
situated in a plain upon the left margin of the river Piauhy, abounding
with excellent water, and has a chapel of Our Lady of Guadalupe,
another of Rozario, and a bridge over the river. It is eighteen miles
from the ocean, and the sumacas which enter by the bar of the Rio Real
anchor in front of it, and export various articles of merchandise.
Itabaianna, situated in the vicinity of the serra of the same name,
having a church of St. Antonio, is a small town, and celebrated for the
race of small horses, bred in its extensive district, where cattle are
also reared, as well as various necessaries of life.
Villa Nova de St. Antonio is agreeably situated, upon an eminence
refreshed with fine breezes, upon the St. Francisco, on the opposite
side, and two miles below Penedo. It has a good church, a royal
professorship of Latin, and in its vicinity quarries of grindstone. In
its district, which extends to the sea, cattle are bred and various
productions cultivated. Two parishes of Indians are within its
precincts, with the title of missions.
Propiha, originally called Urubu de Baixo, created a town in 1800, is
twenty-five miles above the preceding, upon the margin of the same
river, between two lakes of great disproportion; the smaller, of a
circular figure and sixty fathoms in diameter, may hereafter be in
the centre of the town, when it has experienced that augmentation of
which its advantageous situation renders it so susceptible. It is near
a valley opened by the diversifying hand of nature across a plain,
appearing more like a human operation, and by which the river at all
times extends an arm to the centre of a campinha of more than eight
miles in length, and of proportionate width, that becomes a large and
handsome lake, abounding with fish during the period of the floods. It
has a market every week, where its inhabitants provide themselves with
those necessaries which the sterility of its environs denies them. The
church, which was formerly a chapel of St. Antonio, besides being the
only place of public worship in the town, is very small and poor. The
western limits of its district are the same as those that bound the
province. The principal revenue of the camara is the product of the
public sale of fish, which enter periodically into the temporary lake,
the mouth of the valley being barricadoed with mats of cane, to prevent
their return to the river with the receding waters.
Within the district of this town is the parish of St. Pedro, situated
upon the margin of the St. Francisco, in a flat country, and which
becomes an island immediately the river begins to swell. It consists of
eighty families, almost generally Indians, for whom it was exclusively
founded. The colony is composed of two tribes. The _Romaris_, who
are the remains of the native aborigines, and the _Ceococes_, from
the vicinity of the serra of Pao d’ Assucar, (Sugar Loaf,) fifteen
miles distant from the province of Pernambuco. Even at the present
day, they are repugnant to the intermarriage of one with the other.
The women labour daily in the manufacture of earthenware, which they
dry or complete on Saturday evening, with a large fire upon a piece of
ground appropriated to the purpose. The husbands hunt, fish, or plant
some mandioca, according as their caprice dictates, loitering about the
greater part of their time, and consuming in _cachassa_ (spirit)
the main portion of the product of the labour of their industrious
wives. In the vicinity of this parish were found, a few years ago,
bones of a vast size; the species of animal which afforded them are
extinct.
Lagarto, situated in a plain seventy miles to the west of the capital,
is a middling town, and famous for its quarry of flint stone. It has
a church dedicated to Our Lady of Piedade, (Piety.) In its environs
are raised cattle, cotton, mandioca, &c.; and in its district is the
famous Campo of Creoilo, eight miles in extent, affording pasturage
for numerous herds of cattle, and where are many emu-ostriches and
seriemas, with other birds.
Thomar, antecedently Geru, well situated in a flat district, and
enjoying a salubrious atmosphere, with good water, has a handsome
church dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Socorro, which belonged to the
Jesuits. It is five miles from the Rio Real; and the inhabitants,
principally Indians, cultivate cotton, legumes, and mandioca. They
always select a white man and an Indian for judges.
The distinguished and considerable arraial of Laranjeiras, (Orange
Groves,) most advantageously situated upon the left bank of the river
Cotindiba, and eight miles above its confluence with the Seregipe, is
not yet a parish, but in time it most probably will become one of the
principal towns of the province. Large sumacas visit it for cargoes of
sugar, cotton, hides, and legumes.
In the district of the town of St. Amaro, about eight miles to the
north of it, is the arraial of Nossa Senhora of Rozario, which derived
its name from a chapel of this name, agreeably situated near the small
river Ciriri, traversed by a road conducting to the port of Moruim, and
which is one of the most frequented in the country.
Besides the parochials of the towns mentioned, there are only three
parishes: Our Lady of Socorro, (Succour,) filial of the capital; Our
Lady of Campos do Rio Real, filial of the town of Lagarto; and St.
Gonçalo do Pe do Banco.
Upon the coast of this province there are no capes, islands, or ports,
excepting those within the rivers, the bars of which are generally more
or less dangerous, and afford passage only to sumacas. The men are
of all complexions. The Mesticos are the most robust: of this class
was Christovam de Mendonca, who, at the end of the year 1806, when he
had completed his one hundred and twenty-eighth year, still exercising
the business of a potter in the aldeia of Aracaju, near the mouth of
the river Cotindiba, gave a relation of the revolt alluded to at the
commencement of this chapter, and died two years afterwards.