The Pao d’Assucar (Sugar-Loaf) is upon the shore four or five leagues
to the west of Maldonado, and the hill of St. Luzia a little to the
east of the river of the same name. The Serra dos Tappes, which is
of very small elevation, runs parallel with the lake of Patos at a
distance of from four to seven leagues, being fifteen leagues long from
north to south, and five broad. That of Herval is further to the north,
behind the Tappes.
The extensive chains of small hills, without trees, and forming
pasturage for flocks of cattle, are called _cochilhas_.
The before-mentioned Pao d’Assucar is at the southern extremity of the
chain called the Great Cochilha, which extends itself to the north as
far as the source of the river Arica. In many parts, its elevation
is imperceptible, appearing like a plain, and from both sides other
mountains branch off, as do some rivers which have their origin in it.
The hills ranging to the west of it are not well known; the largest on
the east are the Herval, the Piratinim, approximating the rivers of the
same names, and the Babiragua, in the vicinity of the Camacuan. The
highest points of the hills and cochilhas, and destitute of vegetation,
are called _serros_, their summits serving on occasions of war for
watchtowers, which are numerous, and some of them are seen from others
at a distance of twenty leagues.
RIVERS.--The numerous streams of this province almost all
issue by two channels, viz. the Rio Grande de St. Pedro, which
empties itself about the middle of the eastern coast, and the Rio
Uruguay, which runs into the Paraguay. The Great Cochilha divides
the tributary streams of those two rivers. The Uruguay originates in
the lower parts of the mountains which stretch along the ocean, and
runs for a considerable distance under the name of Pellotas to the
westward, between margins principally of pointed and massy rocks,
gathering in its course the rivers Caveiras, Caroas, Chorros, and the
Correntes, which issue either from the skirts or the vicinity of the
same cordillera, and water the most southern portion of the province
of St. Paulo, designated by the name of Campos da Vaccaria. It here
takes the name with which it terminates, and, already assuming the
appearance of a large river, bends its course towards the south-west,
still accumulating by other streams. In latitude 29½°, it receives the
considerable river Ibicui by the left, afterwards the Mirinay by the
right, then flowing southward, and ultimately the Negro by its eastern
margin; has many windings and islands, and affords navigation for
large boats to the first great fall, which is ten leagues below the
confluence of the Ibicui. Canoes advance as far up as the centre of
the vaccarias, or cattle-plains, not, however, without immense labour,
occasioned by the many cataracts and rapid currents.
The river Ibicui rises in the plains of Japóguassu, and, after running
many leagues to the west, turns northward for a space of twenty-five
leagues, augmenting considerably by the junction of many rivers, one
of them being the river Caziquey; a little below which confluence the
Toropy joins it, which is larger, and comes from the cattle plains,
flowing south-west, and bringing with it the river Ibicui-Mirim, that
joins it on the left a little higher up. At this confluence, called
Forquilha, (Three-pronged,) where the Ibicui becomes considerable, it
turns to the west, and gradually augments in importance, so that much
above its embouchure it is four hundred fathoms wide; a little below
the Forquilha it is joined on the right by the Jaguari, a considerable
stream, which also comes from the before-mentioned vaccarias. Its banks
are covered with wild shrubs and trees; the tortuous channel has many
islands, the current almost always tranquil, and navigable nearly to
the heads of those rivers which form it.
The river Negro has its origin very near to that of the Ibicui, runs
always to the south-west, is enlarged by the receipt of a number of
streams, and incorporates itself with the Uruguay five leagues before
that river enters the Paraguay, or Plate, after having watered eighty
leagues of country, abounding, for the major part, in cattle: its
largest confluent is the Hy, which it receives nearly twenty leagues
above its mouth, after a course of thirty-six leagues, from east to
west, through a country rich in pasturage and cattle.
The river St. Luzia takes a course, for nearly forty leagues, through a
country similarly abundant, and disembogues four leagues to the west of
Monte Video, having received by the right bank, a little higher up, the
St. Joze, with which it becomes wide, deep, and navigable, with a good
port at its mouth.
The river Jacuhy (from the bird Jacús) is formed, on the western side
of the cattle-plains, by a union of various streams, which irrigate
those campos, and from whence it issues being already considerable. A
few leagues after having traversed the General Serra it flows eastward,
describing innumerable windings for a space of thirty leagues and on
a sudden turns towards the south. After a further course of fifteen
miles, having become a large river, it enters the western side of the
lake Patos, about four leagues below its northern extremity. Amongst
other smaller streams which swell its waters, after issuing from the
serra, is the Vaccahy, which rises a few leagues to the north of the
Ibicuí-Guaçu, and brings with it the Vaccahy-Mirim, which has its
origin a short distance from that of the Jacuhy-Mirim. These rivers
were so named after cattle began to graze near them. The gentle course
of the Jacuhy is uninterrupted by cataracts, and is perfectly free to
navigation. The Irapuan receives a great many currents, almost all
muddy and brackish, and very cold. A species of soft black stone, with
white particles like silver, are found upon many parts of its banks.
On being burnt, it emits a sulphureous smell, assumes the appearance
of charcoal, and is said to be of no higher value. The Butucarai
comes from the north, and has a bridge. Near its mouth is the passage
of Fandango. The Pigueri joins the Irohy, and comes from the Serro
Pellado da Encruzilhada. The Tubatingahy originates between a serro
and the Encruzilhada. The Pardo, having its source in a serra, runs
through a country covered with wild woods; the large stones in its bed
preclude navigation: it is passed by a bridge. The Capibari flows from
the vicinity of the source of the Irohy. The Antos, formed by various
currents, which issue from the lower part of the cordillera, after a
considerable course towards the west, turns to the south, receives the
Tibicoari, and, ten leagues farther, under the latter name, enters
the Jacuhy, of which it is the largest tributary, affording an open
navigation to yachts as far as the confluence, where it loses the first
name. The adjacent country is fertile, producing beautiful pine and
other trees of excellent timber. The Jacuhy, (ten leagues below the
Jacoari,) at the part where on a sudden it turns to the south, is two
miles in width, forming a bay, where it receives the Cahy, which issues
from the plains on the summit of the General Serra, with a course of
about twenty-five leagues, almost south, and affording a navigation
to yachts of ten leagues. The Sino, something smaller, which rises on
the top of the same serra, more to the south, runs south-west, and
is navigable for a considerable distance. The Gravatahy, which has
its origin in the same hills, further to the south, runs in the same
direction, and affords navigation for a space of five leagues.
The rivers Igarupay, Daymar, and Gualeguay, are the principal ones
which enter the Uruguay, by the left bank, between the mouths of the
Ibicuí and the Negro.
The Maldonado, and the two rivers Solis, (small and great,) discharge
themselves into the gulf of the river Plate. Rio Grande de St. Pedro
is the name of the outlet of the lake of Patos, and is about ten miles
in length almost north and south, near one league in width, and is
situated sixty leagues north-east from Cape St. Mary. The lateral
lands are very flat, and destitute of trees or buildings to direct the
navigator, who, at a distance only of two leagues, with clear weather,
can but just distinguish the entrance to the port in 32° 4′, where the
ebbing and flowing of the water generally produce an agitated sea,
rendering the shoals variable, so that no ship can or should enter the
port without a well experienced person, acquainted with the state of
the bar.
The lake of Patos, which took its name from a nation of Indians now
unknown, is the largest in the Brazil, being one hundred and fifty
miles in length from north-east to south-west, parallel with the
coast, and thirty-five at its greatest width, with sufficient depth
for vessels of a middling size; it has, however, some very dangerous
shoals. The water is salt in the southern part, with the banks
generally flat. It is the recipient of almost all the currents which
water the northern and eastern portion of the province, and whose
principal embouchures are the Jacuhy on the north, and the river de
St. Gonçalo on the south. The lake Mirim, which signifies “small,”
compared with the other, is ninety miles in length, and twenty-five at
its greatest width; this also extends along the coast, and discharges
into the lake Patos, by a channel, fifty miles long, wide, handsome,
and navigable, and constituting the aforesaid river de St. Gonçalo.
The river Saboyaty, after having collected many others, flows, in a
considerable stream, into the southern extremity of the lake Mirim,
and is navigable for many leagues. The small river Chuy disembogues
almost in the middle of the same lake; and, further to the north,
the river Jaguaron, which has its source near the lake Formoza,
(beautiful.) It has a course of about eighty miles, and eighteen of
navigation. The river Piratirim which has its origin also near the
lake Formoza, empties itself about the middle of the St. Gonçalo,
after a course of thirty leagues, affording ten miles of navigation.
The river Pellotas, rising in the serra of the Tappes, enters the
St. Gonçalo near its mouth, and admits of small vessels for five
leagues. Passing the embouchure of the St. Gonçalo, the first river
met with on the lake Patos is the Contagem, which is about fourteen
leagues in extent. The second is the Correntes. The third is the
Canguçu, navigable for some leagues. The fourth runs under the name
of St. Lourenço. The fifth denominated Boqueirao, and the least of
all, originates, like the others, in the Serra dos Tappes. Above the
Boqueirao, in the middle of the lake of Patos, the Camapuan empties
itself by five mouths, formed by four islands, the largest of which is
half a league in circumference. It flows from the Great Cochilha by a
rapid course of nearly one hundred miles, amongst rocks and stones,
admitting navigation only for a distance of four leagues, and higher
up presenting continued cataracts. By its southern margin fourteen
currents are admitted, some of them ten leagues in extent; and fifteen
by its northern bank, none exceeding five leagues. The southern ones,
commencing from the mouth of the river, are the Pereira, rising in the
Serra dos Tappes; the Cardozo; the Evaristo; the Meirelles; the Sapata,
which flows from the same serra; the small river Pedras, (Stones,)
rising near the situation called Igatimi; the Almeida; the Arroio
Grande; the Velhaco, originating in the Grand Cochilha, near the Serro
Bay, and running through a bed consisting in parts of rugged and craggy
prominences; the Fagundes, which runs for five leagues between rocks,
with many falls; the Rodrigues, rolling angrily over precipices, and
foaming between rocks and stones; the Arroio da Palma, considerable,
serene, well stored with fish, and navigable for small craft; (the
quadruped _capibara_ is seen upon its banks in bands of eighty
and one hundred;) and the Camapuan Chici, tranquil in its course,
receiving, amongst other streams, one called Tigre. The adjacent
territory consists of fine campos, fertile in corn.
Passing the mouth of the Camapuan, northward, the Duro is first met
with, which runs through a flat open country, without wood, and forms
in its course some lakes. Next, the Velhaco, flowing rapidly through
woods. Beyond this is the Passo Grande, with like umbrageous borders.
Proceeding up by the Jacuhy to the town of Portalegre, on the left bank
is the Araca, rising in the Serra Herval, and the Antonio Alves, which,
three leagues above its mouth, receives the Doudarilho, and affords an
open navigation to _hyates_, or yachts. At the northern extremity
of the lake Patos the river Palmares enters, having its source in the
neighbouring plains of the Tramandahy. Three leagues to the west of it
runs the Capibara, which is only a current in winter, when the lake of
Serra, receiving the waters of various small brooks, discharges them
through this outlet: the lake is about eighteen miles long and five
wide, and runs parallel with the cordillera. The country which these
rivers traverse is a plain of white sand, and in great part marshy,
producing, however, some herbage, brushwood, and plantations.
Along the coast, which runs from Cape St. Mary to the little Castilhos,
are various lakes approximating to the sea. The lake Manglieira, which
is eighty miles long and about four broad, extends between the coast
and the lake Mirim, and empties itself, at the northern extremity, by
an outlet called Arroio Thahim. The peninsula between the coast and the
lake of Patos, from two to six leagues in width, is interspersed with
a great number of lakes, generally running into the ocean, or into
others. Amongst those extending westward we may remark, in the southern
part, the Capibaras, into which a small river empties itself of limpid
water, bursting suddenly forth with admirable force, and is the purest
in the peninsula, which, nevertheless, is not deficient in good potable
waters. On the eastern side of the peninsula is the lake Mostardas,
better known by the name of Peixe, nine leagues long, with little
width, extending along the margin of the sea to the point where it
disembogues through an elbow of land, that opens and closes annually,
and by which various species of fish enter; the most numerous are
denominated _miragarga_, resembling the cod-fish. With this lake
various others communicate, that lie to the north, and are connected by
their different mouths. Near the last, that terminates the extent of
the Barros Vermelhos, another chain of a similar description commences,
at a short distance from the beach, and extends parallel with it for a
space of twenty-five leagues.
A short way from Barros Vermelhos, and by the side of the sea, there
is a small lake that runs into a larger one, which terminates in the
Capoes do Retuvado. It has an outlet into another, that extends from
hence a league and a half. Beyond these there are two lakes running
parallel; and still further another, near the Capao do Xavier, a
distance of two leagues, which discharges itself into the lake
Charqueada, the latter terminating in the place of that name, and
running by a vein into a smaller one: this empties itself into a lake
of equal size, and that is joined to a larger, which terminates in
the Capao Dastacoáras. The last discharges itself into the Quintao,
which runs into the Cidreira. The Cidreira is divided into three bays
or lakes, communicating by necks or outlets, and occupying an extent
of four leagues and a half. It has a channel of two miles long to the
Ribeiro, terminating near the passage of the Arroio, its outlet to the
river Tramandahy. The river Tramandahy is in 30° south latitude, and is
nothing more than the channel of discharge to a great number of lakes,
spreading themselves over the extensive plains that lie between the
beach and the cordillera. Into this river also is discharged the most
southern of another chain of lakes, that extend themselves along the
same cordillera northward, very near to the river Mombituba, at the
mouth of which there is a military detachment, in order to register
persons entering or leaving the province. In the space of twelve
leagues, which lie between the Tramandahy and the Mombituba, fourteen
small rivers of crystalline water are discharged into the sea.
The afore-mentioned peninsula, formed by the lake Patos and the ocean,
is level ground, with a small elevation, or albardao, near the middle;
it is almost in a direct line on the eastern side, forming various
points and bays on the opposite one. Among the first is the Ponta do
Mandanha, commencing at the south, where have been found the vestiges
of an Indian village and cemetery. Next to this the Ponta Raza; between
them the lake das Capibaras discharges itself. In the middle of the
bay called Barrancas, which is the best shelter in this lake for all
vessels, some small rivers are emptied, one of which is navigated by
canoes and other boats. The Ponta of Bujurú is six leagues more to the
north. Into the middle of a bay of the same name, runs a fine river,
which forms a little island at the bar. The point of Christovam Pereira
is six leagues further. In the bay, which is to the southward of it,
there are two considerable mountains of shells, which prove how much
the Indians were attached to shell-fish. The point and bay of Cacira
are more to the north, and the last that are remarkable. The ground is
generally of a very sandy soil, but in some parts clay is found below
the sand, which shows that the peninsula is not formed by the sand of
the sea, but that the ancient soil is covered with it. Between the
lakes Mirim and Mangueira, for many leagues, the small river Chuy takes
its course, and enters the ocean in front of the southern extremity of
the first.
CAPES, PORTS, AND ISLANDS.--St. Mary is the only cape. Monte
Video, St. Luzia, and Maldonado are the best ports. The islands of
Castilhos, near the point of the same name, and Maldonado, in the
entrance of the bay of the same name, are both small. The isle of
Lobos, (Wolves,) two miles in circumference, has good water, is almost
all rocks and stones, and lies four leagues to the south-east of the
preceding one. There are two others to the south-west of Cape St. Mary.
The isle das Flores, half a league long, and of little width, is flat,
and six miles to the east of Monte Video. The isle of Martim Garcia is
to the west-north-west of the bay of Colonia do Sacramento, in front
of the mouth of the river St. Francisco. The isle of St. Gabriel, four
hundred and fifty fathoms long, its width proportionable, is in front
of Colonia; as well as the isle of Antonio Lopes, and the English
Island, both small. That of Fornos, two hundred and forty fathoms long,
approximates nearer to the beach. The island of Marinheiros, three to
four leagues in circuit, flat and covered with trees and brushwood, is
near the southern extremity of the lake of Patos, and a little to the
north of the town of St. Pedro, whose inhabitants have recourse to it
for water and firewood.
MINERALOGY.--Terra-sombra, or umber, calcareous stone, potters’ earth,
gold, silver, and sulphureous minerals.
PHYTOLOGY.--Timber is more remarkable here for its fine quality than
its abundance. From the parallel of 30° degrees southward, on the
banks of the principal rivers only, are to be seen any forests of fine
full-grown timber. Out of these latitudes, in this province, trees are
rare and of small size. In the southern parts, they burn bones and the
excrements of cattle, in consequence of the scarcity of wood. In the
northern there are beautiful pine trees.
ZOOLOGY.--Five nations held their dominion in this province.
The Patos in the peninsula, and to the north of the lake which has
taken their name; the Charruas, around the lake Mirim, and as far as
the river Plate; the Minuânos, to the westward of the latter; the
Tappes, from the lake Patos to the Uruguay; the Guaycanans, in the
cattle plains, where they still reside at times. Of the first there is
now no account, and they appear to be extinct, having most probably
intermixed with other tribes. The Charrúas have retired into the centre
of the country. The Minuânos occupy the lands to the westward of the
Tappes from the Ibicui southward. Between the Minuânos and the Charrúas
enmity perpetually exists, and frequently wars occur. They both use the
lance, the arrow, and the sling, and are expert on horseback. Grapuetan
is the name of the country where the Minuânos reside for a considerable
part of the year. The Tappes in great numbers formerly lived under the
influence of the Christian missions of the Uruguay.
Amongst other species of wild quadrupeds, there are the _anta_, like
a little cow without horns, as common in the West Indies, the deer,
the ounce, the monkey, the _paca_, like a pig of two months old, the
rabbit, _quati_, _cotia_, _tatous_, or armadillo, covered with scales,
the _jaraticáca_, or squash, which the Spaniards and Portuguese call
_forrilho_, the boar, the fox, with various kinds of dogs, _viz._ the
_jaguaratirica_, _guará_, _guaraxain_, and the _jaguane_. The race of
the European species of dog have here multiplied excessively, so that
they live in the plains, where they subsist with others of the wild
kind, without ever entering any village or dwelling. They are called
_chimarrōe_ dogs. Immediately on the slaughter of cattle ceasing, and
when in want of provisions, they assemble together in large bands, and
encircle an ox, which they pursue with unceasing obstinacy until the
animal falls with fatigue, and is devoured by them in a few hours. A
horseman even runs a risk in the plains, when they are in a state of
famine. No province in the Brazil abounds with such prodigious herds
of cattle, horses, and mules. Goats are not very numerous. The sheep
produce a fine wool.
In the beginning of the last century this province was covered with
cattle, in spite of the devastation which the Indian and the ounce had
made amongst them. The conquerors, persuaded that such a profusion of
cattle never would have an end, commenced by carrying on a destruction
amongst them resembling that of the tiger and the wolf in the
sheepfold. This havoc was principally directed against the calves, and
generally one did not suffice for the dinner of two comrades; probably
they both wished to eat the tongue, and to make a greater certainty
of it they killed a second calf, rather than divide the first. There
were men who killed an animal in the morning in order to breakfast on
broiled kidneys; and, not to be incommoded by carrying any part of the
meat for dinner, performed the same operation by killing the best they
could discover for dinner. There was no banquet without veal only a few
days old.
Don Joaquim Vianna, governor of Monte Video, hearing of this
destruction of the cattle, and informed of the cause, issued an
order, about the year 1650, with a heavy penalty attached to its
transgression, that no more calves or cows should be killed, excepting
such cows as were barren; and that no bulls or oxen should be
slaughtered for their skins, excepting those of five years of age and
upwards. In the vice-royalty of the Marquis de Lavradio, some good
arrangements were made in the northern part of the province; but all
were not under their influence, in consequence of the widely spreading
districts, to many of which they did not extend.
Two small portions of the cattle of this province are appropriated, one
to the consumption of the country, and the other to the slaughter-house
of the metropolis; but the far greatest proportion is manufactured
into jirked-beef, which is salted without bones, dried in the sun, and
exported to the principal ports in the Brazil; but, from the desultory
warfare carried on near the river Plate, it has recently become very
scarce, and _bacalhao_, or salt fish, brought by British ships to
the ports of Brazil, has become a substitute at many places.
In 1802, there were yet only amongst the subjects of the faithful
crown, five hundred and thirty-nine proprietors of land,
judicially marked out amongst the breeders of cattle, denominated
_fazendeiros_, or farmers, and _lavradores_, or husbandmen,
which latter breed only what is necessary for their own service and
consumption; they possess generally about two square leagues of land:
but those of the first order have eight or ten square leagues, and
some even more. The greatest proportion of the cattle are breeding
cows. In a plain or field of three leagues are usually bred four or
five thousand head, and proportionably more or less, according to the
quality of the land, or attention of the breeder. The pasturage is not,
however, generally good, the soil being, as before mentioned, of a
sandy nature.
For the management of a fazenda of five thousand head of cattle, it
is said six men are sufficient, with one hundred horses at least;
the whole of which pasture together in troops of twenty, with a
tamed mare, from which they do not usually stray. From the sandy
nature of the soil, as in many other parts of Brazil, particularly at
Pernambuco, no expense is incurred by the owners for shoeing them.
In each establishment, or tract of land, there is commonly a small
hill, or the most elevated land is selected, as plain and even at the
summit as possible, which is known by the name of _rodeio_, (a
certain compass of land,) and is capable of receiving the whole flock,
when brought together. For this purpose, the shepherds on horseback
distribute themselves round about the cattle, and cry out loudly
“_Rodeio, rodeio, rodeio_;” at whose voices the cattle march at
full trot towards the rodeio, in files, divided into droves or bands of
fifty to one hundred, according to the numbers that pasture together.
This mode of forming them early into troops is indispensable, in order
to put on the mark of the dono or proprietor upon such as have it not,
and with more facility to select those that are upwards of four years
old for the market, or for _carne-secco_, or jirked beef.
If the stock of cattle exceed the number of heads which the fazenda is
capable of sustaining, they of course run short of pasturage, and many
spread out into more distant plains, and after a time will no longer
obey the rodeio, but fly and disorder the rest of the flock.
In a fazenda of three leagues it is computed that one thousand young
cattle, male and female, are branded or marked, annually; consequently
the number they send off or kill may be estimated in the same ratio.
The farmers also breed a certain number of domestic cattle. He who
possesses four thousand cattle, which are denominated _bravo_, or
wild, keeps commonly one hundred milch cows, which, however, pasture
in the same fields or plains with the others. When a cow calves, she
always selects a situation adapted to the concealment of her young,
where it continues in secrecy for the space of eight days. She visits
it at different times in the course of the day, in order to give it
suck, lying by it at night. It is difficult to find them during this
period; but once discovered the calf is immediately conducted to the
cattle fold, where it is kept eight or nine months or more, being daily
visited by its dam, which is milked the whole of this time, for the
purpose of making butter and cheese, leaving to the prisoner only what
it can draw from its mother after she has been milked. The familiarity
of the young one with the persons upon the fazenda preserves it in a
state of tameness. The males, when sufficiently grown, are used in the
cart or plough, and the females pasture in the plains till they become
mothers, continuing to supply the farmer with an increasing stock.
Although the domesticated cattle are not bred up with such a satiety
of provision as the wild ones, which enjoy the whole of the mother’s
milk, and pasture the entire day without working, yet they grow as
large and become fatter. This is attributed to the fearful nature of
the undomesticated kind, who fly from every animal that appears; whilst
the tame ones, although they eat less, live in quiet, always retaining
the habit of going to the fold, and approaching people without alarm;
they are also less time in the fields, consuming less pasturage, and it
is estimated that the aliment which four thousand head of wild cattle
exhaust is sufficient to sustain eight thousand of the tame. The meat
of the latter is esteemed the most savoury.
The same _fazendeiros_ breed also droves of horses and mules. The
latter are the most lucrative, a male one being at least double the
value of a horse; and in consequence, its species is more numerous,
although very few persons breed more than two hundred annually. The she
mules of two years old are either sold or separated from the rest, in
order to avoid the destruction which they would cause in the species. A
she mule seeing the foal of a mare, immediately begins to caress it as
her own, and will not allow the mother to approach to give it milk; the
result is, that it perishes with hunger.
The breed of sheep would, if attended to, much exceed that of cattle,
in consequence of their generally producing two at a birth; they are
not however numerous, few farmers possessing one thousand head, and
the major part not any. Nothing here appears so easy and cheap as the
multiplication of this animal. For the purpose of shepherding a flock
of one thousand, two cur dogs are sufficient, bred up in the following
mode. As soon as they are whelped, the lambs of a ewe are killed,
the puppies are put to her, and she suckles them until she becomes
habituated to treat them as her young, when, upon opening their eyes
and seeing no other benefactor, they attach themselves to her, and play
with the lambs as if they were of the same species. Nothing is ever
given them to eat; they are shut in the fold with the sheep, and on
obtaining strength and vigour to attend the flock, they are suffered
to go at large, when they accompany it to the field. In a little time,
and without more instruction, they are so familiarized with the sheep,
that they never separate from them. When it happens that a ewe lambs in
the field, and the lamb cannot accompany the mother, in consequence of
its not yet having sufficient strength to follow her, one of the dogs
watches near, and if he finds that the lamb cannot follow the mother
to the flock, he carries it in his mouth, without doing it the least
harm. No other animal or unknown person can approach the sheep, of
which these dogs are the guardians, without the risk of being attacked.
The other domestic dogs and the hordes of the chimarroe dogs are the
greatest enemies to the flock; against them and the birds of prey,
which pick out the eyes of the lambs, the vigilance of the watch dogs
is requisite.
Amongst other species of birds are the Macuco partridge, the parrot,
_caroe_, _inhuma_, _sócó_, _tayugu_, _jaluerá_, heron, _jacu_, the
_araponga mutum_, _tucano_, and the quail. In the lakes are large
numbers of wild ducks, and large wild geese, some brown, some white,
others with black necks, which when stripped of their feathers, are
covered with a fine long down, similar to the Armenian fur, and serving
for the same uses. The marine geese, which have a bill like a turkey,
with smaller wings and without feathers, for the most part go at the
bottom of the sea, and are seen occasionally upon this coast, as well
as the sea calf. It is said, that here the emu ostrich lays many eggs
in one nest, to which they never return after having finished laying;
the male then hatches them, after instinctively breaking two, for the
collection of a large quantity of flies; thus the young find sustenance
till they are able to accompany their protector, when he remains their
guide for several days. The people do not generally follow hunting or
shooting, so that game is very abundant; neither are they partial to
fishing.
The inhabitants are instructed in the use of the _laço_, in order
to catch wild cattle. It is a cord of twisted leather, secured by one
end of the saddle or girth of the horse, upon which the laçador is
mounted, the other end forms a noose through which the cord runs, and,
curling it up, the horseman throws with dexterity to a great distance,
and secures the animal by the horns or the neck. The sagacious horse
instantly throws itself into a firmly inclining posture, to resist the
opposing power of the animal to escape. There are men so skilled in
this art, that they catch the wary ounce with the laço. The laçador as
quickly dismounts and despatches it.
They are not less dexterous in the management of the balls, which are
two round stones secured at the extremity of a cord, formed also of
leather, and being thrown at the legs of the animal, unexpectedly
entangles them so effectually, that it cannot move another step. These
species of weapons are used by them against each other. This custom was
borrowed from the Maraocoto and other Indian tribes, who used the laço
and balls with great effect against Mendonça when he landed and founded
the city of Buenos Ayres. The _Peons_, who act as guides, as well
as others of mixed origin, are expert with these weapons.
The Spaniards denominate the progeny of the Indian and Negro,
_Somboloros_; and of these latter and the Mulatto, _Saccalaguas_; the
son of a Mestico (offspring of a white and an Indian) and an Indian,
_Cholo_. The Portuguese call the first _Curibocas_.
The principal towns in this province are St. Pedro, Portalegre, and
Monte Video.
St. Pedro is a commercial town, and advantageously situated upon the
extremity of a tongue of land, between the gulf of Manguein to the
south and a bay to the north-east. It has a church dedicated to the
apostle from whom the town derives its name. It has two orders of
devout women; the one called St. Francisco and the other Carmo. The
houses are generally very wretched, and the streets of a fine sand,
the same as that of the neighbourhood. It enters so profusely into
the houses, at the season of the high winds, that it is impossible
to eat any thing without a portion of sand being intermixed with it.
This town, begun a league to the south-west, in the situation called
Estreito, was removed by Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, between the years 1747
and 1750, and was the capital till the year 1763. The heat is intense.
Cats fly from the rats, which are large and exceedingly numerous;
but they have a formidable enemy in the dog. Here are some English
establishments in connexion with houses at Rio de Janeiro.
Upon the eastern bank of the river, in front of St. Pedro, is the
considerable and flourishing _arraial_ of St. Joze, with a
hermitage of the same name. It is the town’s port; and, in 1814, there
sailed from it three hundred and thirty-three vessels of various kinds,
laden with wheat, hides, _carne-secco_, or dried beef, tallow,
cheese, and other articles. Six leagues to the south of St. Pedro is
the arraial of Povo Novo, ornamented with a hermitage of Nosso Senhora
das Necessidades. Its inhabitants, originally from the Azore islands,
are husbandmen.
Portalegre (delightful port) is a large, populous, and commercial
town, has good houses, and straight streets, principally paved, and
is situated upon the southern margin of a bay to the eastward of the
Jacuhy, seven leagues above its mouth, and forty-three leagues north
of St. Pedro. It is the capital of the province, the residence of the
governor, now Conde de Figura, of the ouvidor, and a vicar-general. It
has a church, dedicated to Our Lady Madre de Deos, (Mother of God,) the
chapel Das Dores, (of Grief,) an hospital, a Junta da Fazenda Real,
(a treasury,) and a Cadeira regia de Latim, (a royal professorship of
Latin.) The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, or a judge similar to
a mayor, who also presides over the orphan establishment.
With the loss of the town of St. Pedro, in 1762, the village of Nosso
Senhora de Conceiçao, became the capital, and the hermitage with
which it was ornamented the parochial for some years, inasmuch as the
governor, Joze Marcellino de Figueyredo did not remove the seat of
government; but increased and improved this village, to which he gave
the name so appropriate to its good port. In 1808, it received the
title of town.
A great part of the commodities that are exported from the port of the
town of St. Pedro, are shipped thither from Portalegre, in hyates, or
small craft.
The adjacent country is fertile and watered by the Cahy, Caravatahy,
and other rivers.
About four leagues to the north-east of Portalegre, and not quite a
mile from the right bank of the Caravatahy, in an elevated and fine
situation, is the parish of Nosso Senhora dos Anjos, founded by the
same governor, J. M. de Figueyredo, for the habitation of various Tappe
Indian families, fugitives from the missions of the Uruguay. These
Indians established a large fazenda for breeding cattle, in order
that they might better sustain themselves; and who, notwithstanding
they were freed from the capitation, and exempted from the rod and
discipline under which they had been brought up, withdrew by degrees
to various situations in the province. The river is very winding, its
banks abounding with timber, stone, and fine potters’ clay.
A little more than thirty-five miles to the west of Portalegre is the
considerable and delightful arraial of the new parish, near the mouth
of the Tacoary. Its inhabitants raise wheat and cattle.
About eighteen miles to the north is the parish of St. Joze, with a
large praca, or square, on which is the mother church. It was the
source of the agriculture of this province, and its people are mostly
descendants of the first settlers from the Azores; from whence Senhor
Don Joze brought various families. They began to cultivate wheat and
Indian corn according to the method of their own country, and which is
at this day the occupation and support of their posterity.
Little more than three leagues to the west of the new parish, is
situated the pleasant arraial of St. Amaro, also upon the northern
margin of the Jacuhy, and ornamented with a magnificent church.
Eight leagues to the west of St. Amaro is the considerable town of Rio
Pardo, at the mouth of the river from which it borrows the name, and
has a church called Nossa Senhora do Rozario; also two chapels. It
occupies four small eminences, and had its commencement with a fort
dedicated to St. Lourenço, received the title of town in 1812, and that
of a countship in 1815.
About two miles from it is the village of St. Nicoláu, with a hermitage
of that name. The people who inhabit it are descended from the
aborigines. About twelve leagues south of Rio Pardo is the arraial and
chapel of St. Barbara da Encruzilhada, in an elevated and pleasant
situation, and having most excellent waters. Ten leagues above Rio
Pardo, upon the northern bank of the Jacuhy, is the considerable
arraial of Cachoeirá, with a church of the Lady of Conceiçao. It
has wide, straight, and clean streets, and possesses advantages for
becoming much more considerable.
Twelve leagues to the south of Cachoeirá is situated the arraial of
Cussapabá, upon a small hill near the source of the river St. Barbara,
with the chapel of the Lady of Assumpçao.
North-east of Portalegre about fifteen leagues is the small town of
St. Antonio da Patrulha, near the road, in an elevated country. Its
inhabitants cultivate mandioca, sugar, and bananas, with other fruits.
To the north of Patrulha, in an extensive plain upon the General
Serra, is the parish of Nossa Senhora do Oliveira. Cattle are its main
commodity.
The peninsula formed by the ocean and the lake Patos is divided into
three parishes. To the west of the lakes Patos and Mirim are the
parishes of Espirito Santo, Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao de Piratinin,
St. Francisco de Paulo, Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao de Canguçú, in the
vicinity of the river Camapuan, and St. Sebastiam do Bajé, near the
origin of that river; all in the diocese of Rio de Janeiro.
The following places are in the diocese of Buenos Ayres.
Monte Video, with the title of city, is situated in a pleasant plain at
the extremity of a peninsula, which forms the eastern side of a bay
almost two leagues long, and one wide at the entrance. It is fortified
with various batteries towards the sea, and a citadel on the land side.
It has a church dedicated to the apostles St. Filippi and St. Tiago, a
convent of St. Franciscans, an hospital, good houses with flat roofs
and parapets, and straight streets. The inhabitants enjoy a salubrious
air, but are inconvenienced from the want of wood. They drink
rain-water, collected in cisterns, which are formed in the inner courts
common to the houses, and this water is pure and excellent. There are
also pits dug near the sea-side, from whence water is brought in carts
for the supply of the town. It is one hundred and thirty miles to the
west of Cape St. Mary, and one hundred and twenty east of Buenos Ayres.
Its port, at the extremity of which there is a small island fortified,
has not sufficient depth of water in all parts for large vessels.
The _pamperos_, which are furious tempests from the south-west,
occasion at times very great injury, and the sea here is greatly
subjected to the influence of these winds. It was taken by the English
in June, 1807, and given up again at the end of some months. There are
a few English establishments here, but the trade is trifling compared
with that of Buenos Ayres. The suburbs are thickly inhabited, and have
two parochials, both dedicated to Our Lady of Carmo. More distant
there are two others, Pinheral and Pedras, and their parishioners are
breeders of cattle.
Maldonado is a small town, but which, with much facility, might become
very considerable, from the circumstances of its favourable situation
upon a fine bay, bearing the same name, and the fertility of its
adjacent district. It is adorned by the church of St. Carlos; and the
inhabitants are chiefly descendants of the Portuguese. It is fifteen
leagues west of Cape St. Mary.
Pueblo Novo, founded for the habitation of the Portuguese prisoners of
Colonia do Sacramento, is two leagues to the north of Maldonado, and
has a church called St. Carlos. Near twenty-five leagues to the north
of Pueblo Novo is the parish of Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao de Minas.
St. Domingos Suriano is a small town, well situated near the mouth
of the river Negro, in a country abundant in corn and pastures,
where large quantities of cattle are bred, which, with lime, are the
principal exports. Eight leagues distant from St. Domingos Suriano is
the parish of Nossa Senhora das Merces, near the margin of the Negro.
About five leagues from the same place upon the St. Salvador, is the
parish of Espenilho; and fourteen leagues from Espenilho, that of
Viboras.
Nine leagues to the north-east of Monte Video is the parish of Nossa
Senhora of Guadalupe de Canneloes. There are also the parishes of
Perongos, which is in the central part of the district; of Hy, upon the
river from which it takes the name; of St. Joze and of St. Luzia, near
the rivers which bear their names; of Sacramento, where the Portuguese
founded it; and of Pintado, along the sea. Serro Largo, with the title
of a town, is delightfully situated near the place of the same name,
and is the nearest to the Portuguese frontiers.