From Nanerth rocks, after a pleasant ride of about three miles on the
bank of the Wye, we reached Rhaidr Gwy; the word Rhaidr signifies a
cataract, or fall of water, and is frequently applied to those falls,
among the mountains of Snowden in Carnarvonshire.
Camden seems to think that from the word Rhaidr, the county of Radnor,
through the west angle of which, this river directs its course derived
its name. The bridge at Rhaidr consists of one wide arch, which from its
base forms a very large segment of a circle. It is a plain structure and
has little but its romantic accompaniments to recommend it; the immense
pile of rocks on which it is elevated, carries the arch so high as to
afford from beneath it, an extensive prospect of the adjoining country,
in which a small Welsh building called Cwmtather Church appears in a
whimsical point of view. The annexed sketch was taken from below the
bridge, where the combination of objects is wonderfully grand; and in
this dry season, displays in full force the ponderous rocky substances
of which it is composed. But in consequence of this drought, we had the
misfortune to lose the display and thunder of its cataract, which a less
friendly state of the elements would have exhibited in all its grandeur.
The stones over which the waters in this vicinity roll, are of an
immense size, and in their forms, partake both of the majestic, and the
grotesque; their diversified hues, and vast angular prominencies afford
in certain lights and in some seasons of the day, under the rays of a
bright sun the most brilliant and picturesque effect. Over the bridge
passes the high road that leads to Aberystwith, and a more rugged and
dreary path, is perhaps scarce to be trod in any of the frequented parts
of this principality. Rhaidr, though now but a miserable place, derived
formerly some consequence from its castle, which was advantageously
situated in a nook of the river not far from the bridge, but of which no
trace at present remains. Near the spot whereon the castle stood is a
deep trench cut out of a solid rock, and not far distant, are several
large Tumuli, or Barrows, called in Welsh, Kern, and Keido. These are
conjectured to have been raised as memorials of the dead. Camden
confirms this idea, and observes, not very consistently indeed with the
respect due to the memory of the departed, “that it is still the custom
to cast heaps of stones on the graves of malefactors and self
murderers.”
At what period the castle at Rhaidr was built is not ascertained, but it
was repaired by Rhys Prince of South Wales in the reign of Richard the
first, and near it says Camden, “is a vast wilderness rendered very
dismal by many crooked ways and high mountains, into which as a proper
place of refuge, that bane of his native country, King Vortigern, whose
very memory the Britons curse, withdrew himself, when he had at last
repented of his abominable wickedness, in calling in the English Saxons,
and incestuously marrying his own daughter.”
His address to the Barons, on the subject of calling in the aid of the
Saxons, is thus recorded by an anonymous author.
“My Lords, vain compliment would suit but ill
“The present time, I therefore briefly thank you,
“But e’er we part, fain would I crave your hearing.
“Our Troops have now been long disus’d to War—
“Yet do not think I mean their fame to tarnish,
“Or on a Briton throw the damned slur
“Of shameful cowardice. No, my good Lords,—
“But though their ribs do serve as castle walls,
“And fast imprison their strong Lion hearts,
“Yet e’en the Lion, when full gorg’d with food
“Will bask and tamely lay him down to sleep—
“Then in such sort, hath undisturbed peace,
“And want of custom, (nature’s substitute,
“That changes e’en our very properties)
“Soften’d their manhood. Then t’were policy
“That we should court the Saxons to our aid!
“This too will in our Britons raise the flame
“Of bright and generous emulation.
“Say Lords! doth this my proposition please you?
Below Rhaidr we soon lost sight of that immense rocky scenery, so
eminently characterizing its neighborhood, and every reach of the river
yielded additional richness and verdure. A detail of each minute change
of prospect that occurs in a tour of this nature, however gratifying at
the moment to the eye of the curious and picturesque traveller, would be
tedious and uninteresting; it is therefore the business of description
to record only the most material objects as they occur, and leave
imagination to paint the rest. About three miles below Rhaidr, the Wye
receives a considerable supply of water from the rivers Eland and
Clanven, which unite at a distance of about four miles from their
conflux with our river. Below this a copious stream called the Ither,
which in its course receives the Dulas and Comar, makes a considerable
addition to the waters of the Wye. From the brow of a hill about two
miles before we reach the town of Builth, the scenery is peculiarly
beautiful, the river spreads itself into a bay, and the immense rocky
substances with which its bed has hitherto been spread, rise here in
various detached forms many yards above its surface, exhibiting so many
small islands, and agreeable breaks in the fore ground of the landscape.
The annexed view was sketched from this spot, in which it is much to be
regretted that the bridge of Builth could not be introduced, as it would
considerably have added to the beauty of the scenery. Builth is a town
of little consequence, yet from its antiquity, and the salubrity of its
air, it becomes highly deserving our attention. We happened to be there
on a market day, when the town was so thronged with people, that we
could scarcely pass through it. It resembled rather a fair than a
market, and the immense croud collected together, presented to the eye a
scene in effect, similar to that of one continued mass of long blue
cloaks, apparently in perpetual motion. Not a house, nor a stable but
was occupied, and it was really a matter of astonishment, that in so
small a town, and on so common an occasion as that of a weekly market,
such a vast concourse of people should have been assembled; but a market
or fair, is the pride and glory of the Welsh; and, happy souls! why
should they not in a sultry summer’s day, enjoy the suffocating luxury
of a long blue cloak, as well as the Londoner his summer theatre, amidst
“the raging dog star’s heat.”
In an extensive tour through Wales, I witnessed a scene at Aberystwith
very similar to that I have just described, and as the surrounding
objects were there more peculiarly marked with the picturesque than
those at Builth, a representation of the scene, although at a
considerable distance from hence, may perhaps not prove unacceptable to
the reader. In this view appears part of the castellated dwelling of
Uvedale Price, Esq.; a man not less distinguished for the elegance with
which he cultivates the fine arts, than for his powers of
discrimination, and the accuracy with which he defines them. The house
is recently erected on the shore, and commands an extensive prospect of
the sea, the only one in fact it does command.
At this market or fair, the usual artifices to amuse and delude, were
exhibited with the usual success; other centuries revolve, and other
generations arise, but rustic manners remain unchanged, the same
pursuits occupy the mind, and the same toys interest and beguile. There
were, “Ribbands of all the colors ith’ rainbow. Dancing and music,
ballads all pitiful and true, one of a fish that appeared upon the
coast, on Wednesday the of April, forty thousand fadom above water.”
Autolicus with all his rhetoric could not more artfully have displayed
his wares, nor could the following lines have had a better effect on his
auditors than the tricks presented here.
“Lawn as white as driven snow,
“Cyprus, black as e’er was crow;
“Gloves as sweet as damask roses,
“Masks for faces, and for noses;
“Bugle bracelets, necklace amber,
“Perfume for a lady’s chamber;
“Golden quoifs, and stomachers,
“For my lads to give their dears;
“Pins and poking-sticks of steel,
“What maids lack from head to heel:
“Come, buy of me, come: come, buy, come, buy,
“Buy, lads, or else your lasses cry: come buy.”
Builth is happily encompassed with a range of hills that afford shelter
to the place, and screen the neighbouring woods with which it is
enriched. On the skirt of the town stand the remains of an ancient
castle; they comprise near four acres of ground, and though not
sufficiently massed to form an object for the pencil, yet the remaining
fragments convey a general idea of its former dignity.
The eminence which is contiguous to the remains of the fortress, denotes
what the Romans called the Presidium. This castle is reported to have
been erected by the Breoses and Mortimers, after the demolition of a
former one by Rhys ap Gryffydh. Ptolomy calls the town of Builth,
Bullæum Silurum, from whence it derived its name, but Doctor Horsely is
inclined to think that the ancient Bullæum of Antoninus, was at Uske in
Monmouthshire, from the ruins of a Roman fort, or city, being found
there. The neighbourhood of that place is still called Bualht.
Traversing the vicinity of the castle, our Welsh guide pointed out to us
a field at about two miles distance, called Cavan, in which Prince
Llewellyn is reported to have been buried, and so fertile he observed
was the soil, that each stem bore two heads of corn. From the same
authority, we are told that as that Prince was one day crossing the
field in disguise, he asked of an old woman the name of a small brook
that ran across it, who replied, it was called Nantytrrad, then said he,
let it in future be named Cwm Llewellyn, for that shall be the burial
place of that Prince. Where is there a Welchmen who does not deplore the
loss of his brave Llewellyn? but our guide drew much consolation from
there being yet a good Prince of Wales, who in the hour of need, would
certainly defend and fight for his countrymen. Llewellyn is reported to
have been murthered in a small castle that stood at a place called
Llechryd, about one mile from Builth, while he was meditating his escape
into Glamorganshire. A modern house, with a moat surrounding it that
includes about three acres, marks the spot whereon the castle stood.
Builth Castle is well situated for defence, it stands on an eminence,
and the point of land, is in part surrounded by the beautiful river
Irvon, which in a semicircular direction winds its course into the Wye,
about half a mile above the town. This river is of considerable width,
and derives its source from the hills in the vicinity of Strata Florida
in the county of Cardigan; thence after taking a south west direction it
winds towards the north east, and falls into the Wye near Builth. Within
a small distance of its junction with our river, it receives a brook
called the Wevery, which rises on the Brecknockshire hills about eight
miles distant, and produces remarkable high flavoured salmon and trout.
Near to the Wye a new stone bridge is building over the Irvon,
contiguous to the old one which was of wood. This new structure consists
of six elliptical arches; it is erecting at the joint expence of the
counties of Brecon and Radnor. The elevated span of the upper circle of
this bridge, however necessary here from the great floods that happen in
the winter season, is yet a taste too prevalent in the general
construction of our bridges. The bed of the upper surface is usually so
high as to become a large segment of a circle; this custom militates not
only against every principle of utility to the horse and traveller, but
shuts out the general prospect, which even by an artist whose ideas are
not too narrowly confined to his own science, should in a country like
this be made an object of some consideration.
In Italy and France, a contrary system has very judiciously been
adopted, by which means, in every point of view the eye finds relief
from the diversified scenery around. This practice is supported by the
classical productions of the elegant Claude Lorraine, who, whether he
designs from nature, or has recourse to his own refined ideas of his
art, always adheres to this principle. Near Builth are the remains of
Llandrindod-wells, once in high esteem, and celebrated for their
excellent medicinal quality. This spring of water issues out of the side
of a rock, which is of the slate kind, it is strongly impregnated with
nitrous salt, sulphur, and steel; and produces an effect similar to the
waters of Scarborough and Cheltenham, but it is of a more powerfully
quality. The wells are now greatly in decay, and consequently are not so
much frequented as formerly. On a high hill named Caven Durris, about a
mile from Builth, David Thomas, Esq.; has erected a handsome stone
residence, which when viewed from the town, appears too much exposed,
but on a near approach, is found to be happily screened from the
northern winds by the surrounding hills: It commands a very noble and
extensive view, as well on its own level towards the South, as from that
part which looks down towards the town of Builth, and at the same time
includes a beautiful command of the meandering course of the rivers Wye
and Irvon, and of the extensive bridge of Builth in the vale beneath.
This bridge is a simple and well constructed modern edifice, consisting
of six arches, within a mile of which a small river called the Dihono
having a small bridge of one arch thrown over it, empties itself into
the Wye. From the ferry a little below, a beautiful reach of the river
terminates in a view of the small remains of Aberadway castle, of which
no history is to be traced. Its ruin is very insignificant, little more
than a stone wall, now over grown with ivy remains. At the extremity of
it are the fragments of two round towers. These rude specimens of art,
are finely contrasted by the adjoining and truly wonderful productions
of nature. These are an immense range of rocks running parallel with the
river, exhibiting a variety of the most strange and fantastic forms
imaginable. In different points of view, they convey to the mind, the
idea of so many towers and castles shouting from amidst the oak coppices
and other shrubs that enrich this majestic scenery. These vast
prominencies in their various shapes, received at the instant of viewing
them, additional grandeur and effect from the solemn shade, produced by
a declining sun, and presented a scene truly worthy the pencil of a
Salvator, or amongst our countrymen, his rival, the late John Mortimer.
Near this charming spot, the river Edwa, from which these rocks derive
their name, empties itself into our river. For a considerable distance
in passing down the Wye, we have on a smaller scale perpetual breaks of
the same rocky kind of scenery till we reach Llangoed, the seat of Mr.
Edwards; from hence we ride through a charming wood of young oaks,
ranged for a considerable distance on an elevated bank of the Wye, they
give at each break and opening, an enchanting view of our beautiful and
picturesque river, which on the approach to a village called Swains,
about a mile distant, wears the appearance of an extensive bay, while
the mountains in the back ground gradually recede, and the general face
of the landscape assumes a new character. In the annexed view of
Glasebury, the scene when contrasted with that at Aberedway or at
Builth, will best illustrate this idea, here all around wears an air of
placidity; the river’s rocky bed no more agitates the water in its
course, it flows a tranquil and a gentle stream, reflected on whose
glassy surface under the evening’s lengthening shade
“Down bend its banks, the trees depending grow;
“And skies beneath with answ’ring colors glow.
In the midst of this rich and beautiful valley, an elegant stone bridge
of seven arches is thrown across the river. It was built about fourteen
years ago by the family of Edwards, under the direction of their father,
the celebrated architect of Pont-y-pridd. The adjoining view was made in
August, 1794; in the ensuing winter the bridge was totally destroyed,
which will in some degree give value to this sketch, as a memorial of
that which is at present, little more than a wreck; every arch of it
having been blown up by the torrent of ice, which poured down on the
very sudden thaw, after the long frost in the beginning of 1795.