XXIX

[Sidenote: DAWN OVER THE MOOR]

This morning, waking at dawn, the Padrona was impelled to roll out of

bed, and look out of both her windows. The one over her balcony gives

down the valley and the one opposite her bed affords her vision of the

moor rolling away beyond the Dutch Garden and the terrace corner. If she

had been but a woman of moderate vigour, she would not have gone to bed

again till the whole pageant of mysterious glory had fulfilled itself

before her eyes. For what a sight it was! First of all, the whole

garden, woodland and heather hills were steeped in a translucence for

which there is no name. It is a virgin hour, and its purity no words can

describe. The Ling, in full bloom, was silver and amethyst on the rise,

misty purple and blue in the hollows. Behind the shouldering hills a

rift of sky was a radiant lemon-yellow, a kind of honey sea of light.

And above that, again, little drifts of cloud had caught a wonderful

orange-rose glow like the wings of cherubim about the Throne. Down the

valley there were silver mists against the most tender, clear horizon;

and all along the Lily Walk the clumps of Tiger Lilies seemed to be like

little Fra Angelico angels, holding their breath in adoration!

[Illustration: landscape - two pages wide]

Everything lies, after all, in the point of view. The dawn was decidedly

too pink for safety, and the clumps of Lilies that looked so pious and

recollected have got “the disease” badly in their stalks. Yet realism

can never blight that exquisite hour of breaking day in her thoughts!

The only time we degenerates ever really see the dawn is coming home

from some London ball; or again, travelling. The dawn in London often

gives an impression of extraordinary blue in atmosphere and heaven, we

suppose because it is seen contrasted with artificial illuminations. But

that sapphire blue, when it permeates park and streets, when the sky

seems to hold unplumbed depths beyond depths of the same wonderful

colour, is a thing to dwell in the memory likewise, though travellers

have the better part. Dawn in the Alps! A night not to be depicted! Such

vastness of tinted heights; such black chasms where the pines hang;

spume of waterfalls all golden crimson, and deep rivers, green and

terrible and beautiful with a glint on them as they rush!

One of us ‹the fourth in the lucky clover leaf at Villino Loki; one who

is poet and musician besides many other things, and sometimes poet and

musician together› has defined the indefinable. It is not the dawn of

the day she hymns, but the dawn of the young Spring.

Though the poem is printed in a recently published volume, it seems to

fit naturally into this page.

_THE ST. GOTHARD_

_April and I—

Each with each greeting amid tumbled ice,

Travel these wastes of frozen purity.

Here the wild air above the precipice

E’en tasteth sweet, and hath a delicate scent

As of faint flowers unseen—the flower of snows

Massed peak on peak in slumber yet unspent,

But dreaming of the Rose._

_Here the great hills wear silence as a seal—

April and I,

Listening can hear the loosened snowflake steal

Down from the burdened bough that slips awry;

Here the long cry of water-nymphs at play

Freezes upon the iced lips of fountains,

And their sweet limbs’ arrested holiday

In crystal carved engarlandeth the mountains._

_Through such vast fields of sleep how dare we roam,

April and I,

And from its eyrie bid the torrent foam,

And virgin meads grow starrier than the sky

With scattered cowslip and with drifted bell?

Or where austerely looms an Alpine giant

Set a young almond rosily defiant

To be our sentinel?_

_Whence are we victors, chanting as we go,

April and I.

“Be free, ye tumbling streams, awake O snow—

Ye silver blooms increase and multiply?”

What is our spell?—The singing heart we bring,

And lo! that song that is the core of earth

Leaps in reply, and children of the Spring

Into the light come forth._

[Sidenote: THE DAWN OF YOUNG SPRING]

Then there was a dawn over the Campagna, seen from the train that was

speeding us towards Rome. A ball of red fire hung over the horizon. The

sea lay silver and grey; and misty silver the Campagna.... “God made

himself an awful rose of dawn,” as Tennyson sings. He did that morning:

awful, yet full of a glorious comfort. The sea just caught the great

reflection on its bosom.

A little later, when we came to the first ruins that precede the

aqueducts, there were the white cattle, stepping about among the broken

pillars, with their huge spreading horns all gilded. These had not

changed since the days when the sun gleamed on the grandeurs of classic

Rome. Only then yonder building—temple, or tomb, or villa—fronted the

morning with a forgotten stateliness, a lost grace.

Is anything comparable to the scene that meets the traveller on his

entry into Rome? Alas! St. John Lateran no longer stands like some

titanic splendid ship about to slip her moorings and sail away into the

wild, lonely sea of the Campagna. New walls have sprung up without the

noble ancient walls; sordid disjointed lengths of streets, mean houses

with blistered, leprous plaster; and evil-looking little wine-shops.

Nevertheless, nothing can spoil the moment when the Lateran Church first

gathers shape against the sky. All those statues with tossing gesture

against the faint blue of the new day, heroic figures with outstretched

arms seeming to gather pilgrims into the city; and in the midst of them

the Saviour uplifting the Cross of Salvation! To the believer what a

welcome! And it is Rome herself at a glance, too; for if the Church

stands here beckoning between earth and sky, she is jostled below and

round about by the still speaking wonders of old Pagan Rome.

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