_Of the island of Çubu, and of the other islands under its
jurisdiction_.
_Island of Çubu_. The island of Çubu, the first to be settled by
Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, has a circuit of nearly a hundred leagues
and a length of about fifty leagues, for it is very narrow. At the two
extremities it is, at the widest place, about twenty leagues wide. One
extremity, the one lying toward the north, is called Burula. The
other extremity, which we call Las Cabeças and the natives Sanbuan,
lies at the south; for, as is inferred, this island runs nearly north
and south. One cannot sail very close to the island; because all
along the coast where the town of Çubu is situated are to be found
bays that curve in different directions. On the other and western
side of the island the land lies almost northeast and southwest. The
entire island contains about three thousand five hundred Indians,
living in different, and for the most part small, villages. Here
I shall mention only the principal ones, for the others are small,
numbering only from eight to ten houses.
_Jaro_. Jaro is under the charge of an encomendero who also holds an
encomienda elsewhere; the village is inhabited by five hundred Indians.
_Daraguete_. Daraguete is also an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.
_Peñol_. El Peñol is also an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.
_Jaro_. Jaro is likewise an encomienda, with two hundred Indians.
_Temanduc_. Temanduque is also an encomienda, with five hundred
Indians.
_Temanduc_. In the same province of Temanduque another encomendero
has seventy Indians; and it is also an encomienda.
_Barile_. The village of Barile is another encomienda; it is inhabited
by four hundred natives. It is also an encomienda.
_Burugan_. The village of Burugan has about seventy Indians. It is
also an encomienda.
_Candaya_. The province of Candaya has three hundred and fifty Indians,
belonging to two encomenderos. It is also an encomienda.
No Spaniards are to be found in any of the principal encomiendas,
in all this province, although fourteen of them possess holdings
therein. These Spaniards, because they were inhabitants of the town
of Çubu, received each two or three small villages, together with
service from the Indians, fowls, and other means of maintenance;
for the principal encomiendas were distant from them thirty or forty
leagues, more or less. On the other side of the above-mentioned native
communities, at about two arquebus-shots from the Spanish town of
Ssantisimo Nombre de Jesus (thus called because an image of the child
Jesus, of the time of Magallanes, had been found there, and was held in
great reverence by the Indians), is a village of the natives belonging
to the royal crown, with about eight hundred Indians. The commander
Miguel Lopez de Legazpi exempted this community from paying tribute;
for they had always taken sides with the Spaniards, and had helped
them to conquer some of the other islands.
_Observations on the island of Çubu_. In this village live thirty
Spaniards, and as many encomenderos. Counting both citizens and
soldiers, fifty or sixty Spaniards ordinarily reside there.
_Alcalde-mayor in Çubu_. The governors of these islands have always
appointed an alcalde-mayor, at a salary of three hundred pesos taken
from the fines forfeited to the royal treasury; and the royal treasury
not being sufficient, the alcalde-mayor has not, as yet, appointed any
deputy. There are six regidors, who, up to the present time, have been
elected annually. The past governors appointed also an alguazil-mayor,
whom they can remove and replace at their pleasure. There is no
remuneration for this last office; and it is therefore given to an
encomendero, who is generally one of the leading citizens. There
are also two alcaldes-in-ordinary, and one notary for the cabildo
and the public. If all these officials were not also encomenderos,
they would be unable to support themselves; for the town possesses
no commerce which comes within their reach. The town has the best
port of these islands, and it was for this reason that Miguel Lopez
de Legazpi founded a settlement there. It was he who founded the
above-mentioned town, in the year of sixty-four. Perhaps the traffic
with Maluco may prove of advantage to the town, for there is no other
place in its vicinity with which any commerce could be carried on. Its
neighborhood is poor, and all the vast district round about lacks gold
mines or gold-placers, except in the island of Mindanao--and that but
little--as will be described later. The island of Çubu produces a small
quantity of rice, borona, and millet and little or no cotton; for the
cloth which the natives use for their garments is made from a kind of
banana. From this they make a sort of cloth resembling colored calico,
which the natives call _medriñaque_. In these islands great value is
set upon the land which can produce rice and cotton, because cotton
and cloth find a good market in Nueva España. The condition of the
people will be described when I shall speak of all the Pintados in
general, for they all are very similar. All are provided with fowls,
swine, a few goats, beans, and a kind of root resembling the potatoes
of Sancto Domingo, called by the natives _camotes_. After rice, fish
is the main article of maintenance in this and other islands, for it
abounds in all of them, and is of excellent quality in this island
of Çubu. Although deer have been found in all the islands discovered
hereabout, there are none here; and if any should be brought hither
from elsewhere they would immediately die.
_Island of Matan_. To the south of the settlement of Çubu, about two
arquebus-shots from it, lies the island of Matan where Magallanes was
killed; it forms the port of Çubu. The island is about four leagues
in circumference, and half a league wide; it has a population of about
three hundred Indians, scattered through four or five small villages,
all of which are under the jurisdiction of the town of Çubu.
_Island of Vohol_. On the other side of the island of Matan, and
farther south, about eight leagues from the settlement of Çubu,
lies the island of Vohol, which is an encomienda with two thousand
Indians. The natives of this island are closely related to the people
of Cebu and are almost one and the same people. Those inhabiting
the coast regions are mainly fishermen. They are excellent oarsmen;
and, before the arrival of the Spaniards, they were accustomed to
cruise about in their vessels on marauding expeditions. They are
also traders. There was once a large town in this island [Bohol],
which, shortly before the Spaniards came hither, was plundered by the
people of Maluco, and the majority of its inhabitants were dispersed
throughout the other islands, where they now dwell. The settlements
inland among the mountains are small and poor, and are not yet wholly
under subjection. In this island, as well as in the many nearby
uninhabited islets--these latter abounding also in fish--there is
great abundance of game, both deer and boars. The island is about
forty leagues in circumference, and eight or ten leagues wide.
_Island of Negros_. West of the island of Çubu lies another island,
called by the Spaniards Negros, because its mountain districts are
inhabited by some blacks. The Indians have given it various names, such
as Nayon, Mamaylan, and others, all taken from the names of villages in
different parts of the island. It contains some six or seven thousand
Indians; but the number of blacks has not been ascertained, because
of their hostility. The side of the island facing Çubu is sparsely
populated; for it has only one settlement worthy the name, which is
situated on the river Tanay, and half of the Indians on that river are
natives of Bohol. The southern side, facing the island of Panay and the
town of Arevalo, is thickly settled; for it contains the rivers Ylo,
Ynabagan, Bago, Carobcop, and Tecgaguan--all fertile districts, rich
in foods, such as rice, swine, and fowls; and abounding in medriñaque,
although there is no cotton. The coast facing Çubu lies about two
and one-half leagues from that island, and on the side facing the
island of Panay and the town of Arevalo there is a like distance;
so that two straits are made with these islands of Zubu and Panay
respectively. The side toward Çubu has three encomenderos; and that
toward Panay and the town of Arevalo has eight. All other encomenderos
hold encomiendas in other parts of the island. This island is about
ninety leagues in circumference, and about twelve or thirteen leagues
wide. None of its villages belong to his Majesty.
_Island of Fuegos_. Near the straits formed by Negros Island and that
of Çubu, there is an island which we call the island of Fuegos. It
has a circuit of ten leagues, and a population of nearly two hundred
Indians, and is a part of an encomienda. This island produces a great
quantity of wax.
_Island of Camotes_. East of the island of Çubu are two small islets,
each about five leagues in circumference. They are called the islets
of Camotes. The two are inhabited by about three hundred Indians,
and are under the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu. The people
are poor, although they possess some wax and a great quantity of
fish. The villages are small, consisting of only seven or eight houses
each. These islets are about three leagues from the island of Çubu,
and seven from the city of that name.
_Island of Baybay_. About three leagues farther east lies the
island of Baybay, or Leyte, as it is also called. It is a large and
well-provisioned island, although the people dress in medriñaque. Leyte
is thickly settled; it may have a population of fourteen or fifteen
thousand Indians, ten thousand of whom pay tribute because that has
been a people hard to conquer. There are twelve encomenderos; but
his Majesty owns none of the Indians. This island is about eighty
leagues in circumference, and fifteen or sixteen wide. Its principal
settlements and rivers are Vaybay, Yodmuc, Leyte, Cavigava, Barugo,
Maraguincay, Palos, Abuyo, Dulaque, Longos, Bito, Cabalian, Calamocan
and Tugud. This island possesses neither mines nor gold-placers; the
only cloth it produces is medriñaque, which, as I have said before,
resembles calico, and is made from a kind of wild banana.
_Island of Panaon_. Between this island and that of Mindanao, which
lies north and south, is the island of Panaon. It is about eight
leagues in circumference, and three leagues wide. The population
is poor, and numbers only about one hundred men, who belong to one
encomendero.
_Island of Siargao_. Twelve leagues from the island of Panaon, and
next to the island of Mindanao, is the island of Siargao, which is
about fifteen leagues in circumference and six leagues wide. It may
have about four hundred inhabitants, and its villages are built around
rough and dangerous estuaries. There is only one encomendero. The
people are poor because of their indolence; for although there
are numerous small islets near this island, which contain many
gold-placers, they do not work them. They give as a reason that,
if the corsairs should discover that they were working these mines,
they would come hither to take them captive; but even now, when no
one can molest them, they do not work the mines, and hence we may
infer that their poverty is mainly due to sloth.
_Island of Maçagua_. West of the island of Baybay is a small island
called Maçagua, about which father Fray Andres de Urbaneta related so
many wonders. It is four leagues in circumference and one league wide;
it has about sixty inhabitants, as well as an encomendero. The people
are poor and wretched, possessing nothing but salt and fish.
_Island of Maripipe_. At the other side, northeast from the island
of Baybay, lies the island called Maripipe. It is a very mountainous
island, and by reason of its great roughness it is barren. It is about
seven leagues in circumference and two and one-half leagues wide. It
has a population of about one hundred Indians.
_Island of Limancaguayan_. Nearer the strait and cape of Espiritu
Santo, and about three leagues from Maripipe, is another island,
called Limancaguayan. Like Maripipe it has a circumference of about
seven leagues, and a population of one hundred. This island produces
rice and medriñaque. These two islands belong to one encomendero,
together with the island of Fuegos, which we mentioned above.
_Island of Masbate_. Farther to the north-northeast of this island
of Leyte lies the island of Masbate, which is about thirty leagues
in circumference, and six leagues wide. It has about five hundred
Indians, who belong to one encomendero. It has also gold mines from
which much gold was dug, for the natives of Camarines went thither to
work them; but they have left the place on account of the Spaniards,
and therefore the mines are not worked. The island of Leyte is
considered the centre of all the islands mentioned above, because
they all lie in its neighborhood.
_Island of Bantayan_. About two leagues north of the island of Çubu
lies the island of Bantayan. It is about eight leagues in circumference
and two leagues wide, and has a population of about one thousand
Indians; this and the above-mentioned island of Vohol are under the
charge of one encomendero. Its inhabitants are well-disposed. They have
large fisheries, for there are many shoals near the island. There is
also a pearl-fishery, although a very small one. The land produces
millet and borona, but no rice, for all the island has poor soil
notwithstanding that it is level. Some of the natives of this island
cultivate land on the island of Çubu, which, as I have said, is two
leagues away. The island abounds in excellent palm-trees--a growth
common to all the Pintados islands, for all of them abound in palms.
_Island of Capul_. Capul is the name of the island forming a strait
with the island of Luçon. Through this strait pass all the ships which
come from España. Capul is about twelve leagues in circumference and
four leagues wide. It has about five hundred Indians, and belongs to
one encomendero. Its inhabitants are poor and have rice and medriñaque.
_Island of Viri_. Still nearer the cape of Espiritu Santo, and in the
strait itself, lies the island of Viri. It is about five leagues in
circumference and two leagues wide. It has a population of about one
hundred. This island and that of Maçagua are under one encomendero.
_Island of Ybabao_. Southeast of the island of Baybay, lies the
island of Ybabao, or as it is also called, the island of Candaya [also
Tandaya]. It is about one hundred and ten leagues in circumference. No
one has yet gone through the land, and therefore its width is not
known. They say that its population is as large as that of the island
of Baybay, and that it is a fertile and well-provisioned island. The
people seen by the Spaniards will number about five thousand Indians,
who are scattered through the following villages:
The village of Daguisan.
The river of Ylaga.
The river of Yba.
The river of Basey.
The villages of Hubun.
The villages of Balingigua.
The villages of Guiguan.
The river of Sicavalo.
The river of Bolongan.
The river of Sibato.
The village of Tinagun.
The River of Calviga.
The estuaries of Ulaya.
The river of Paguntan.
The river of Napundan.
The river of Bolo.
The river of Pono.
The river of Gamay.
The villages of Panpan.
The river of Catubi.
The river of Volonto.
The river of Yuatan.
The river of Pagaguahan.
The village of Baranas.
The village of Arasan.
_Islands of Bantac_. Close to the island of Ybabao, on its eastern
side and in the gulf of Nueva España [_i.e._, Pacific Ocean], are
to be found two islands, called Bantac. They are thinly populated,
and according to what the Indians say, no one has yet set foot on them.
_Verde Island_. On this same side, opposite the town of Guiguan
on the gulf side, lies Verde Island. It is about eight leagues in
circumference, and four leagues wide. It contains about one hundred
and fifty Indians.
_Island of Canaguan_. On the western side, opposite the river of
Tinahon, lies the island of Canaguan, which is about four leagues in
circumference and one league wide. It contains about one hundred men.
_Island of Caguayan_. The island of Caguayan lies very close to
the western side of the island of Ybabao, and is three leaguo
in circumference and one league wide. Its population numbers two
hundred men.
_Island of Batac_. The island of Batac, which is near this place,
contains one hundred men. All these islands which have been mentioned
are under the charge of the encomenderos of Çubu, and under the
jurisdiction of the city by the same name; so that, counting each
island by itself, and that part of the island of Mindanao which has
been explored, the jurisdiction of the city of Çubu extends over a
circuit of six hundred and sixty-seven leagues.
_Island of Mindanao_. Of all the islands discovered up to the present
time, Mindanao is supposed to be the largest, although but few of
its inhabitants are friendly--almost none, in fact--and those dwell
along the coast. The Spaniards have explored only about one hundred
and fifty leagues of this island, namely, from the river of Catel to
the principal river, which is called Mindanao. From the city of Çubu
one has to sail southeast to reach the nearest point of Mindanao,
which is called Dapitan. Dapitan has a port, and lies in the middle
of the discovered section of the island. Once this section was thickly
populated, but now there are only a few inhabitants left. It produces
rice and gold, for there are gold-placers and mines all over the
island; but the gold is found in so small a quantity that it can
hardly be detected. From Dapitan to the point of Cinnamon there are
more than thirty rivers whose banks are settled.
_Observations on the Island of Mindanao._ But those who live along
the shore are very few, and are called Lutaos--a name applied to
a tribe of people in this land, whose only means of sustenance is
derived from fishing; and who take their wives, dogs, cats, and all
their possessions in their boats. The fish that they catch they trade
with the people of the mountains.
_Tree-dwellings of the mountaineers of Mindanao._ The mountaineers
of this island build their houses in certain trees, so large that in
each one a house is built which can contain forty or fifty married
men and their families; the tree serves as a fortress against the
enemy. As far as seen this region abounds in wax. The land is very
rough and mountainous, and the inhabitants dress in mediñaque cloth.
Forty leagues from Dapitan, on the side facing Maluco, is Cavite
Point, where there is abundance of cinnamon; this is the district
which extends toward Maluco.
_Island of Taguima._ Not far from this Cinnamon Point, lies the island
of Taguima, which is about fourteen leagues in circumference, and
four leagues wide. It has a population of about five hundred Indians,
with two encomenderos. In all parts of Mindanao are found a great
many civet-cats. The Portuguese ships, on their way from Malaca to
Maluco for cloves, pass by this island, and formerly did much harm
to the natives, often committing acts of treachery while making that
passage. Civet-cats are found in all parts of the island of Mindanao;
but the people are poorly supplied with food and clothing.
_Island of Soloc_. Twenty leagues from this Cinnamon Point lies
the island of Soloc. Its inhabitants are Moros from Burney. It
was discovered at the same time as was the river of Burney. The
island is about twenty-four leagues in circumference, and is said
to have somewhat more than one thousand inhabitants. It is said to
have elephants and a fine pearl-fishery. It belongs to one of the
encomenderos of Çubu, and is within the jurisdiction of that city.
_Island of Mindanao, continued_. All the region northeast of
Dapitan, as far as the river of Butuan, is under one encomendero,
except the villages of Gonpot and Cagayan. These two villages,
on account of their production of cinnamon, are under his Majesty,
although their population is small, not exceeding two hundred men. The
same encomendero has charge also of the district between Dapitan and
almost to the Cinnamon Point, so that his encomienda in this island of
Mindanao is of nearly sixty leagues' extent; he is also encomendero of
the above-mentioned island of Soloc, and holds another encomienda in
the island of Çubu. With all this, he is poor [and dying of hunger:
_crossed out in original MS_.], and cannot help laying hands on all
the discovered land of Mindanao
_Rivers: Paniguian, Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, Beslin--all of
which have about three thousand men, for the most part hostile_. Around
the river Butuan, which belongs to Guido de la Veçaris, dwell about six
hundred Indians who are in this island. Farther on are to be found the
rivers Surigao, Parasao and others, all poor regions notwithstanding
their gold-placers. The same may be said of the rivers Paniguian,
Ydac, Matanda, Ytanda, Tago, Ono, and Beslin--all of which have a
population of about three thousand, mostly hostile.
Two attempts have been made to explore the chief river of Mindanao--the
most important of the island, and from which the island of Mindanao
derives its name--but with little result, for our people have been
able to discover only six or seven villages. Of these villages the
principal one is where the petty king lives; others are Tanpacan,
Boayen, and Valet, with others, which, according to what has been seen,
have a population of a little more than three thousand, although it
is reported that there are many more than that number.
_Island of Camaniguin_. Opposite Butuan River, in the direction of
Çubu, and between Vohol and the island of Mindanao, lies the island
of Camaniguin. It is about ten leagues in circumference, and has a
population of about one hundred Indians. This island is two leagues
from Mindanao. It is a craggy and mountainous island. It produces
some wax, and la gente della por la mayor parte anda sienpre muy city
of Çubu.