We were now bound on a cruise among the islands of Melanesia, inhabited
by a dark-skinned race, differing very greatly from the people we had
previously visited. We hoped, however, to obtain a supply of
sandal-wood, and to establish friendly relations at different spots, so
that the schooner might return for another cargo, and bring back any
natives who might be willing to engage as labourers in Queensland. Had
time allowed, we should have been glad to touch at Fiji, the inhabitants
of which were by that time no longer to be dreaded--many, with their old
king, Thakombau, once a cannibal, having been converted to Christianity,
and partially civilised--but Harry was anxious to conclude the voyage,
which had already been longer than he had at first intended.
We had been some days at sea when we came in sight of Cherry Island,
rising some three hundred feet above the surface of the ocean, and
thickly covered with vegetation, but only two miles and a half in
circumference. It appeared truly a little gem in the midst of the world
of waters. As there were no dangers off it, we were able to stand close
enough in to observe the fine sandy beach extending round it for a
considerable distance. Along the shore we saw no canoes, but a number
of natives appeared, waving green branches--emblems of peace. As we
watched them through our telescopes, we saw that they were of the
Polynesian, or brown race--fine-looking fellows, unlike the Papuans, who
inhabit the islands we were about to visit. As it was not likely that
they could supply us with either cocoanut oil or sandal-wood, we did not
communicate with them, but continued our course westward.
The first island we made after leaving Cherry Island, was Varikoro, one
of the Santa Cruz group, but, as we were bound northward, we did not
heave to till we came off the small island of Lom-lom, where we saw a
number of canoes paddling towards us. The natives who manned them wore
rings in their ears and noses. Though their object was to trade, as
they brought off only a few bows and arrows, and a fruit in appearance
and taste resembling an apple, we soon concluded our transactions with
them.
Thence standing on, and passing several other islands, the next day but
one we reached that of Nukapu, which has a melancholy interest, as it
was here that the excellent Bishop Patteson lost his life. The island
itself appeared to be about a couple of miles in circumference, and is
surrounded by a coral reef, extending, on its south-west side, as far as
a mile and a half from the shore, but in other places much nearer. The
island was covered with a dense bush, growing down to within a few feet
of the water's edge. As we were not aware at the time of the
treacherous character of the natives, while the schooner was hove to,
Charlie and I, with four men as a crew, pulled off in the gig, hoping to
open up an intercourse with them. We were well armed with muskets,
pistols, and boarding-pikes, in case we should be attacked. On
approaching the reef, we saw a number of canoes floating in the lagoon,
each containing three men. We found, however, that we could not get
over the reef, but we saw the people on the beach waving green branches,
inviting us to come on shore. We accordingly pulled in, believing that
we should meet with a friendly reception. As, however, we got near, the
savages commenced yelling and dancing in a curious fashion.
"They wish to do us honour, I suppose," said Charlie. "It will be wise,
however, not to trust them too much."
We pulled on till we got to within a hundred yards of the beach.
"Look out; they mean mischief!" I shouted; and scarcely were the words
out of my mouth when a flight of arrows came whistling towards us,
though, fortunately, they fell short of our boat. In vain we tried to
make the natives understand that our object was peaceable, by waving
white handkerchiefs, and holding up our hands without exhibiting our
weapons. This only made them yell and dance more furiously than before.
We might have shot down a number of the natives, but we did not for a
moment think of doing that, and therefore at once returned to the
schooner.
We now continued our course until, towards evening, we came in sight of
a lofty mountain, rising in a conical form out of the ocean. On turning
our glasses towards its summit, we could see dense volumes of smoke and
flame issuing forth, and as it lay in our course, and the wind was fair,
we passed close to it. When darkness came on, the whole summit of the
mountain appeared to be a mass of fire. Harry summoned Mary and Fanny,
who had gone below, on deck to enjoy the magnificent spectacle. Now
flames would shoot forth, rising high in the air; and then the
incandescent lava, flowing over the edge of the crater, would come
rushing down the slope of the mountain, finally to disappear in the sea.
Then again all was tolerably quiet. Now we heard a loud rumbling
noise, and presently the lava bubbled up once more, to plunge as before
down the mountain-side.
"I'm very glad we are no nearer," observed Nat. "Suppose we were to be
driven by a gale of wind against it, we should run the double chance of
being burnt up by the lava or drowned among the breakers."
"We'll take good care to keep away from it, then," said Harry, laughing.
The following day we came off the island of Santa Cruz, the largest of
the group. When even several miles from the shore, a number of canoes
approached us, each generally containing three people, all of whom
showed an anxiety to trade. We stood into a small harbour, where we
brought up, when immediately more than a hundred canoes came around us,
loaded with mats, bows and arrows, and cocoanuts, which the islanders
willingly gave for bottles, pipes and tobacco, and for articles of
clothing. Whenever a shirt or a pair of trousers were to be had, the
islanders immediately slipped them on, not always as they were intended
to be worn, several putting the hind part before. They were an ugly
race--their skins nearly black, and their foreheads low and receding,
with high cheekbones and broad faces, their noses flat and mouths large,
while their heads were like black, curly mops. I cannot exactly say
that they were dressed, their only garment being a sort of apron,
fastened by a string tightly round the waist; but they wore
tortoise-shell rings hanging from their ears down to their shoulders,
and one large ring through the nose, which gave a most hideous
expression to their countenances. Some had on necklaces of human teeth,
and armlets of shells. Their habitations were low, small, and dirty
huts of a circular form, roofed with the leaf of the cocoanut tree, and
destitute of every description of furniture. They were altogether the
most ugly and diminutive race we had hitherto met with.
As usual, Harry would only allow a dozen on board at a time, while a
strict watch was kept on all their movements, but as far as we could
judge, they had no treacherous intentions. As evening approached, we
made them understand that we wished to be left in quiet, though it was
somewhat difficult, without giving them offence, to get them into their
canoes. They then paddled on shore, promising the next day to return
with the sort of wood we required, of which we showed them a specimen.
We, of course, kept a strict watch during the night, and were ready at
any moment to defend ourselves; but not a single canoe was seen floating
on the surface of the harbour; we therefore supposed that the natives
had retired to their huts to sleep.
Next day a chief came off, the distinguishing mark of his rank being a
breastplate of white shells, about nine inches in diameter. He brought
with him several large bundles of sandal-wood, and promised, if we would
come again some time afterwards, to procure for us as much as we
required. Savage as these people were, they seemed willing enough to
trade, and there is no reason to doubt that the blessings of
Christianity might be introduced among them. Such is the task
undertaken by the Melanesian Mission, about which Charlie Tilston often
talked to me.
We soon after this came off Sugar-Loaf, or Mota Island, which is the
head-quarters of the Melanesian Mission; and, as Harry thought the
missionaries would be glad of an opportunity of sending letters by us,
he ordered a boat to be got ready to go on shore, while the schooner was
hove to. I went in her, with Charlie and Dick, Jack Lizard, Tom Tubb,
Jackie Potts, and Sam Pest. On approaching the beach, we found it was
rocky and rugged, while so heavy a surf was seething on it, that we were
afraid to attempt landing; we therefore pulled round, hoping to reach a
part where we might get on shore without danger. Rounding a point, we
lost sight of the schooner, and after going some distance, succeeded in
finding a sheltered nook, into which we ran the boat.
Leaving Dick in charge of her, Charlie and I proceeded on foot in search
of the missionaries' houses. The walk was a much longer one than we had
expected, but we at last found them, and were courteously received.
They expressed themselves very grateful for the attention Harry had
shown them, and immediately set to work to write letters, while their
wives prepared some refreshments for us. They also insisted upon
sending some down to the boat. We in the mean time walked out to a spot
whence we expected to see the schooner, but when we got there, great was
our dismay at not being able to discover her. A dark cloud, sending
down a deluge of rain, was sweeping over the ocean, driven evidently by
a heavy squall.
"We shall see her when it has passed over," observed Charlie; "for she
will then stand back should she have been driven away from the land."
"I trust so," I said. "Harry is always cautious, and would have
shortened sail in time; otherwise the squall has strength enough to
capsize her or whip the masts overboard."
"You should not allow such a fancy to enter your head," he observed,
wishing to comfort me, as I felt fearfully anxious.
We kept watching the spot where the schooner ought to have been,
entirely forgetting the repast prepared for us. The cloud seemed to
increase in size, the rain grew thicker and thicker.
"If the schooner is still afloat, she must be in the very midst of it,"
I at length observed, with a groan.
"Of course she is," said Charlie, "and running before it. She could not
possibly beat back in the teeth of such a squall. We shall see her when
it has passed."
When we looked back landward, we saw, however, that the sun was already
sinking below the tree-crowned heights, and in that latitude darkness
comes on almost immediately after the sun has gone down. Still, we
could not tear ourselves from the spot.
We were standing thus when we heard a voice saying, "I have been
searching for you, my friends, for a long time, and could not conceive
where you had gone."
Charlie explained the cause of our anxiety, for I was too much agitated
to speak.
"Trust in God's mercy, my friends," said the missionary. "We must hope
that your vessel has not suffered material damage, though you do not see
her. If she has been dismasted, which is possible, you would scarcely
discern her at the distance she must be off by this time. Her captain
must undoubtedly have perceived the squall coming, and would be prepared
to encounter it."
All he could say, however, did not relieve my anxiety. He waited with
us till the gloom of evening, stealing over the eastern ocean, made us
abandon all hope of discerning the vessel. We then returned with him to
his house, where we were thankful to take the refreshment his wife had
prepared. We hurried it over, as we wished to get back as soon as
possible to the boat.
"I have sent to say that you are delayed," remarked the missionary, "and
I must urge you not to attempt to put to sea till the morning. You
would very probably miss your vessel in the dark, whereas she is sure to
stand back to look for you at daylight. I must advise you to wait till
then. Have your boat hauled on shore, and let your people come up here
to pass the night, as this elevated position is more healthy than on the
lower ground; and I will take care that an efficient guard is placed to
protect her."
This advice was so good that we were fain to accept it. We therefore
returned with the missionary to his house, while he despatched a New
Zealander, who spoke English, to bring up Dick and the men. Having a
guide, they were much less time reaching the station than we had been,
and soon arrived. Of course, Dick was very much grieved to hear of our
anxiety about the schooner. The missionaries and their wives did their
best to draw our thoughts away from our friends, by describing the
progress of the work they had undertaken. Their object was, they told
us, to collect young and intelligent natives from the different islands,
and to endeavour to instruct them in the truths of Christianity. When
their education was completed, if they exhibited a right missionary
spirit, they were sent back to diffuse the truths of Christianity among
their fellow-islanders.
It was deeply interesting to see a number of natives brought from among
the most savage races, gentle and civilised, and apparently imbued with
true Christian principles. They were all clothed in shirts and
trousers, and looked as different as possible to the savages we had met
with, though of the same race, and a few years ago were exactly like
them.
We sat up for some time, hoping against hope that we might hear a gun
fired from the schooner, as a signal to us that she was in the offing.
Several times we looked out over the ocean, now sleeping in calm repose,
but no sign of the schooner could be discovered.
At last the missionary advised us to take some rest. He had a
guest-room in which, he said, beds were prepared for Charlie, Dick, and
me, while some shake-downs of leaves and grass were made up in an
outhouse for the crew of our boat. I kept continually starting up,
fancying that I heard a gun fire. Again when I slept I pictured to
myself vividly the schooner struck by the squall, and going down beneath
the surface.
As soon as morning broke we were all on foot, and hurried to the
look-out place, whence we earnestly hoped that we might see the
schooner; but not a sail was in sight above the distant horizon. The
Christian converts were gathered for prayer, and we joined them, though
unable to understand what was said. When our early breakfast was over,
I again hurried out to look for the schooner. Still, as far as eye
could reach, there was no appearance of her. I felt that, as I was in
command of the boat, I must decide what was to be done, though I wished
to consult my companions and have their opinion. I proposed that we
should, without loss of time, proceed in the boat to some of the
neighbouring islands to search for her, believing it possible that she
had been compelled to take shelter in one of their harbours. I told
Charlie what I thought of doing.
"Dick and I will be ready to accompany you, whatever you may decide," he
answered.
"Then let us go at once," I said. "We have a sail in the boat, and,
though the distance between the islands is considerable, we may cross in
a few hours from one to the other."
When we told the missionary what we intended to do, he strongly urged us
to remain with him for a day or two, in the hope that the schooner might
in the mean time return.
"The vessel may be on one side of the island, and you may be passing on
the other and thus miss her," he observed.
I thanked him very much, but still told him that I was too anxious to
commence our search to delay a moment longer than necessary. As the
schooner carried another gig, my brother was certain to send on shore,
should we miss each other, to inquire for us, and we agreed to return
should we fail to find him.
"If you insist on going, I must beg you to allow me to supply you with
provisions and water," said our kind friend, "and I must advise you to
be very cautious in attempting to land on any of the islands. You must
remember that they are inhabited by treacherous races, on whom no
dependence can be placed. It will be better to endure hunger and thirst
than to run the risk of being clubbed, should you land among hostile
natives."
I again thanked him heartily for his kindness, and assured him that we
would be as cautious as necessary. Bidding him and his companion and
their wives farewell, we went down to the boat, accompanied by a number
of natives carrying the provisions with which we had been furnished.
Our boat was launched, and we put to sea.