We had now a continuance of fine weather, and day after day sailed over
the calm ocean, the surface just rippled by a gentle breeze, generally
so much in our favour that we were able to rig out our big square sail,
and to carry a topmast studding-sail. Though it was near the line the
heat was not very oppressive, unless when the wind fell altogether, and
then it was hot. Though I speak of the ocean being calm, there was
always a perceptible swell, more perceptible when we were on the
weather-side of a coral reef, against which the swell, finding an
impediment to its progress, could be seen dashing with tremendous force,
rising high in the air in masses of foam. We had before received a
warning to keep at a respectful distance from such reefs whenever we
could; but sometimes, unable to help ourselves, we were compelled to
pass unpleasantly near. Night and day we kept a vigilant look-out.
Sometimes, indeed, at night Harry thought it prudent to heave to, rather
than attempt running on when the chart showed us that coral banks
abounded ahead. In the daytime, when the sun shone, those even some way
below the surface could be seen by the look-out aloft at a considerable
distance, from the darker colour of the water to that of the surrounding
ocean.
Though it was very delightful to have the society of Mary and Fanny, yet
at other times, when danger threatened, their presence greatly increased
Harry's anxieties, and I suspect that he often on these occasions wished
that he had left them on shore. Mary, however, always expressed her
satisfaction at being with him.
"Just think how I should have felt all the time that you were away," she
said one day. "I should have been picturing you attacked by savages, or
tossed about by storms, or thrown upon a coral reef, or undergoing all
sorts of other misfortunes, till I got you safe back again; and I am
very sure that you would not have taken as much care of yourself as you
now do for my sake. So, whenever you go to sea, remember that I intend
to accompany you."
We found Charles Tilston a very great addition to our society. He was
well-informed, and full of life and spirits, right-minded, and earnest.
He was very grateful also to Harry and me for the way we had treated
Dick. He was so pleased at the account we gave of Queensland, that he
proposed remaining and settling there with Dick as his companion.
We were now approaching that part of the Pacific in which Tom Platt had
assured us we should find the islands round which pearl oysters
abounded; but, as he could not give us the exact longitude and latitude,
we expected to have to search some time before we found them. He
believed it, however, to be two or three days sail to the northward of
the island on which he had been cast away, and which was laid down
accurately on the chart, and for that island we accordingly steered. On
our course there we sighted a large lagoon island, and, as we approached
the north-west end, a number of canoes came off from the shore. While
at some distance the natives on board them were heard singing; as they
drew near the clamour increased. Now and then they interrupted their
singing by giving way to loud shouts of laughter and violent
gesticulations, as if they had been a party of madmen. Their canoes
were small, being only fifteen feet long, and generally containing three
persons. Each canoe was furnished with an outrigger, as also with a
projecting point, both over the bows and stern, to enable them to get on
board out of the water. They were formed of strips of cocoanut-wood
neatly sewn together. When they got within a short distance of the
schooner they ceased paddling, and no signs we could make would induce
them to come alongside. To calm their fears, we offered them various
articles. On this one canoe paddled briskly up, near enough to have the
things thrown into her; then away she went, and another approached.
After this, apparently to show their gratitude, they began a monotonous
song. This made us all laugh, when they stopped and grinned in return;
but although they seemed inclined to be friendly, they would not trust
themselves near us. Harry, however, thought that they might possibly
not object to our landing on their island. A boat was accordingly
lowered, and Charles Tilston, Dick, and I, with Tom Tubb, Jacky Pott,
and Lizard, went in her. We carried several articles for barter,
hoping, as we observed a large grove of trees on the shore, to obtain
some cocoanuts. The moment the natives saw the boat, however, they
paddled away and returned to the shore. As we approached the beach they
assembled, shaking their spears, dancing, shouting, and making signs to
us to keep off. When we retired a short distance they calmed down, but
when we again approached they resumed their former behaviour, thus
giving us to understand that, though they wished to be friendly, they
did not desire a closer acquaintanceship. When we once more retired,
they followed us in their canoes, but without exhibiting any hostility.
We found that Tom Tubb, the New Zealander, could make himself clearly
understood, and we desired him to say that we wanted some cocoanuts; but
they replied that they had only a sufficient number for themselves, and
could not part with them. On our holding up various articles they
cautiously approached, and presented us with some curious fish-hooks,
matting, adzes made from the shell of the Tridachna and ground very
sharp, as also with numerous pearl shells. We came to the conclusion
that they had some good reason to mistrust white men; indeed, we
afterwards discovered that such was the case. The articles they valued
most were buttons, pieces of iron, bottles, and cloth. We tried to
obtain some of their spears and clubs, but with these they would not
part. As we rowed away we saw them waving green boughs, a universal
sign of good-will among the Pacific islanders. Their clothing consisted
of the maro, a cloth worn round the waist; the chiefs having also a
mantle of matting over their shoulders, while some wore feathers in
their hair. None of the females appeared; no doubt they had all been
hidden as they saw us approaching. Their huts were constructed of long
poles, bent so as to form a succession of arches, the ends of the poles
being stuck in the ground, and the whole covered over with pandanus or
palm leaves. They were evidently a very primitive race of people, and
Charlie observed that if one missionary could gain their confidence he
would be able to make much progress among them. Their island consisted
of a coral reef of irregular shape, with a lagoon in the centre, in
which were numerous knolls of various sizes rising four or five feet
above the surface. The island itself, indeed, looked like a collection
of islets, though in reality united by the reef, which was just a wash
at half-tide, so that the inhabitants could have free communication with
each other.
We hoped to be more successful in obtaining cocoanuts and other
vegetable productions at the next island at which we might touch. We
made it the following day, but here also we were disappointed. It was a
perfect lagoon island, consisting of a circle of land of a light clay
colour, the lagoon of a beautiful blue tint. The highest ground was not
more than twelve feet above the level of the sea, and we calculated that
it was about six hundred feet wide to its lagoon. The shrubs were not
numerous, seldom more than twelve to fifteen feet high. Amid them rose
conspicuously cocoanut-palms, and pandanus. There was but one narrow
entrance into the lagoon; but, from the surf breaking on either side of
it, Harry considered that it would be dangerous to attempt passing
through. We already knew that, however beautiful a coral island looks
at a distance, the landing on it is very disappointing. In order to
obtain cocoanuts we pulled for the shore on the lee side, where it
seemed possible to land. As we approached the beach, however, we saw a
large number of natives collected, and as we drew near they began
shouting, gesticulating, and brandishing their long spears and clubs,
making violent motions to us to retire. We had a white flag, which we
waved, hoping they would understand that it was an emblem of peace, but
they took no notice of it, and still threatened to attack us should we
attempt to land. We therefore kept off at a respectful distance, and
directed Tom Tubb, who could generally make himself understood, to
address them. He singled out the chief, and told him that we were
friends of the natives, and that we came simply to traffic. The chief
merely shouted and gesticulated as fiercely as before, making signs to
us to be off, evidently not wishing to have any intercourse with
strangers. This enraged the New Zealander, who, standing up in the bow
of the canoe, became as much excited as the chief, brandishing the
boat-hook as a spear, and making as if he would throw it at him. Thus
they continued for some time, till I thought it prudent to desire Tom to
cease, but he showed no inclination to do this, evidently taking
pleasure in exciting the chief to the greatest pitch of fury. The rest
of the natives becoming as enraged as their leader, presently began to
assail us with pieces of coral, the only missiles they possessed. To
avoid them we pulled away as rapidly as we could: indeed, as it was,
several lumps of coral struck the boat. Here again was another proof
that the natives had cause to dread an intercourse with white men.
The wind heading us we were compelled to make a tack to the eastward,
when we sighted another lagoon island, on which, near the entrance, we
saw a flag waving in the air, and near it a number of natives, all more
or less dressed in shirts and trousers of various colours. They had no
arms in their hands; and as we approached the entrance of the lagoon in
a boat they came down to welcome us in a most friendly way. We were not
long in discovering the cause, a native neatly dressed in shirt,
trousers, and jacket, with a hat on his head, approaching, introduced
himself as a native teacher. He could speak a few words of English;
and, with the aid of Tom Tubb, we managed to carry on a conversation.
He had been only two years on the island. When he first landed the
people were as savage as those we had last visited. The whole had now
become Christians, and partly civilised. Anxious as he was to instruct
them in the truths of Christianity, he was also desirous of improving
their social condition. All the women were dressed in cotton gowns, the
men as I have described; while their huts were of a superior
construction to those on any of the neighbouring islands. The
missionary assured us also that many of the people could read, and some
could even write. We agreed that should we have the misfortune to be
wrecked, how thankful we should be to find that we had been thrown on an
island inhabited by these Christian people, instead of such savages as
those we had before met with. They supplied us with as many cocoanuts
as they could spare. The missionary was instructing them how to make
cocoanut oil, that they might be able to purchase with it such articles
as they required, I may here remark that there are now very many islands
which can rarely be visited by English missionaries, where native
teachers have been the means of producing similar results. The next day
we fell in with another similar island, in which a native teacher had a
short time before landed. He had not been there more than a month or
two when a vessel was wrecked which had some time before carried off
several of the natives, and, undoubtedly, the only one of her crew who
reached the shore would have been put to death had it not been for his
interference. He not only saved the man's life, but endeavoured to
instruct him in the truths of religion. For this, however, the fellow
was far from grateful, for by his conduct he did much to impede the
efforts of the teacher. The latter, when we went on shore, entreated us
to take the man, who called himself Sam Pest, away with us. Harry, for
the sake of the teacher, undertook to do this, if Pest was willing to
go. When the question was put to him, he said that he had no objection,
provided we would land him at some other island where he might do as he
pleased. Harry would make no promise as to where he would land him,
notwithstanding which the man came willingly on board; and we bade
farewell to the missionary and his flock. Sam Pest had been knocking
about the Pacific for the last twenty years he told me, sometimes on
board whalers, at others serving in smaller craft, frequently living on
shore among the heathen natives. He was, I found, a regular
beachcomber--a name generally given to the vagabond white men who are
scattered about in numbers among the islands of the Pacific, to the
great detriment of the natives, as by the bad example they set them they
interfere much with the proceedings of the missionaries. Pest was not
so bad, perhaps, as many; he had frank manners, was certainly no
hypocrite, for he was not at all ashamed of the life he had led. He had
served on board vessels engaged in carrying off natives to work in the
mines of Peru, and he gave me many accounts of the atrocious ways in
which they had been kidnapped. Sometimes the poor islanders were
enticed on board under the pretence of trading, others were carried off
by force. On several occasions when canoes had come alongside, the men
were dragged out of them, and the canoes sunk. In some instances whole
islands had been depopulated, when, from the smallness of their number,
the inhabitants were unable to defend themselves against the attacks of
the kidnappers.
I believe there is some soft part of the human heart, if it can be got
at. By the way I talked to Sam Pest, and by occasionally giving him
some tobacco, he seemed to take a liking to me. When I pointed out to
him the evil of his ways, he acknowledged that he wished he were a
better man, and if I would help him, he would try to him over a new
leaf. I cannot say that I thought this very likely, from the way I
heard him talking to the men.
We had now commenced our search for the Pearl Islands, as Tom Platt
asserted we must be close to them. He said that he was certain he
should know them again if he could once get sight of them. Now we stood
to the northward, now tacked in one direction, now in another, now ran
before the wind, carefully marking down our track on the chart, so that
we might know what ground we had gone over.
"This reminds me of the long time the missionary Williams was searching
for the island of Barotonga before he discovered it," observed Charles
Tilston. "He, however, went not to seek wealth for himself, but to
carry a pearl of great price to the benighted inhabitants. How I should
like to have a vessel and to cruise over the ocean with the same object
in view, dropping missionaries here and there as it was found possible
to land them."
"Such is being done now," I observed. "I heard a good deal about it at
Brisbane, and how the Bishop of New Zealand in his little schooner makes
long voyages for that purpose. There are also two or three other
vessels employed by different societies with the same object in view."
"I must make inquiries about them," answered Charles Tilston, and he
seemed lost in thought.
As we had been four days cruising about without coming in sight of the
wished-for islands, at last Harry began to fear that old Tom had made
some unaccountable mistake. He again and again cross-questioned him on
the subject. The mate was, however, positive that he was right, and
that we should see the islands if we looked long enough for them.
"They may be rather more to the eastward or northward than I fancied,
but hereabouts I have no doubt we shall find them," he said in a
positive tone.
We accordingly extended our search, keeping always a sharp look-out from
the mast-head. Old Tom frequently went up himself, spy-glass in hand,
to sweep the horizon. At length, about noon on the sixth day, while he
was aloft he raised a cheerful shout--
"Land, land! Away to the eastward; it is the island we are looking
for!" As we had a fresh southerly breeze, the schooner was at once
headed up in the direction he indicated. In a short time we could make
out the land from the deck, which greatly resembled the other islands we
had passed, looking like a fleet of vessels at anchor close together.
As we stood on we could distinguish several smaller islands lying off
the large one, which was the most thickly covered with trees. On
getting still nearer we perceived a channel of clear water, along which
we hoped to proceed to an anchorage off the larger island of which Tom
had told us, and as he had marked it well on his former visit he
undertook to pilot the schooner to it. Of course we took the usual
precautions of heaving the lead and having a man at the mast-head, and
one at each yardarm, while Tom himself stood forward, his hand shading
his eyes. The dangers were fewer than we expected, and with infinite
satisfaction we at length brought up in a secure harbour.
As we approached it a number of canoes similar to those I have before
described, each carrying three men, came off to us. The natives
appeared inclined to be friendly, for some were singing a song of
welcome, and others waving green branches.
Summoning Tom Tubb and Jacky Pott to act as interpreters, we let the
natives understand that we could only admit a dozen on board at a time,
and that they must come unarmed. To this they made no objection, but
seemed at once perfectly at their ease. From the curiosity they
exhibited, they were evidently not accustomed to the sight of vessels in
their harbour. They told the New Zealander that they had seen on some
time before, which confirmed the account the mate had given of his
visit. When told that we came to buy pearls, they appeared in no way
surprised, and at once agreed to supply us with as many as we wished
for, as also with mother-of-pearl shells; the latter, though bulky, were
well worth carrying, as there was at the time much demand for them in
the market. My brother at once arranged the price we were to pay, with
which the natives seemed perfectly satisfied: they also promised to
bring us off a supply of cocoanuts.
As soon as these arrangements were made, they paddled off to spread the
good news among their fellow-islanders, and to collect the pearls
already won from the bottom of the sea, of which they gave us to
understand they had a good store. Before evening the first party
returned, bringing a larger number of pearls than we expected. Few of
them, however, were particularly fine, but on an average they were of
good value, which encouraged us to hope that we should be well paid for
our voyage. Notwithstanding the friendly behaviour of the natives,
Harry considered it prudent to keep a vigilant watch during the hours of
darkness. He told the natives that he should not expect to see them
till the next morning.
The night passed away without any cause for alarm. At daylight the next
morning every canoe in the island appeared to be afloat; some brought
off pearls, as well as mother-of-pearl shells and cocoanuts, and others
were seen paddling out to the water between the reefs where the
oyster-beds existed. We carried on a brisk trade for a couple of hours
or more. The natives selected the knives and hatchets and other
articles they required, and handed over the pearls in exchange. As one
party had disposed of their pearls, they were told they must get into
their canoes and leave the side of the vessel, while others took their
places. Thus there was no confusion, and all went on amicably. The
trading over for the morning, as soon as we had breakfasted, Charles
Tilston and I, with Dick and two men, pulled off to watch the natives
diving for the oyster-shells. About thirty canoes were floating over
different spots, each having one diver on board. He had a large net
basket fastened round his waist, and, as far as we could see, he was
furnished with no other means for obtaining oysters. Standing up in his
canoe he drew a deep breath, then, holding his nostrils with one hand,
down he dived, and remained below the water for a couple of minutes. On
his return his bag was seen to be full of oysters. He had, it appeared,
wrenched them off by main force with his hands. The water was so clear
that he could see the oysters without difficulty, as he could also the
approach of a shark or any other dangerous fish. He remained diving at
intervals till his canoe was filled, when she returned to the shore with
her freight. I found that the divers select that period of the day for
carrying on their operations when the direct rays of the sun illumine
the depths of the ocean. On making inquiries through Tom Tubb I found
that, notwithstanding the number of sharks which infest those seas, very
few of the natives lose their lives from them, as they are always on the
watch for the creatures, and know how to elude them with wonderful skill
and courage. Every day brought us a fresh supply of pearls, and when we
found that it began to fall off we produced some fresh articles to tempt
them: gaily-coloured handkerchiefs and cloth, nails, scissors, hammers,
gimlets, and similar things. All this time we had not gone on shore.
The people were gentle and well behaved on board, but they were heathens
and savages, so that it was impossible to tell how they might conduct
themselves should they find that we were in their power.