CHAPTER XIV.

ANTS.—SNAKES, AND OTHER REPTILES.—RIVER OF IGUARAÇU.—BUILDING A

HOUSE.—SEVERAL SPECIES OF TIMBER TREES.—THE PINHAM, MUTAMBA, AND

GAMELEIRA TREES.—THE WHALE.

I HAVE said that the lands of the Engenho Velho were much infested by

the red ants; but indeed scarcely any part of the island of Itamaraca

is free from these most noxious insects. They are of a dusky red

colour, and vary from one quarter of an inch to one inch in length.

Their bite is painful, and they will sometimes fix themselves so

firmly with their antennæ, as to leave the points of them in the wound

which they have made. Their food is entirely vegetable. I found them

extremely troublesome during the continuance of the rains. They would

often make their way between the bricks of the floor of my house, and

pick up any particles of flour or any grains of maize which might

chance to be strewed upon it. On one occasion, two large bags of maize

of equal size were placed in the room at night; but in the morning

one of them was considerably lower than the other; for this I could

not account until, on a nearer examination, I saw one of the red ants

coming out of a small hole which there was at one side of the bag, with

its load upon its back, and soon another followed, and so forth. I now

accidentally put my hand upon the bag, and it fell still lower; so that

an arch must have been formed within, either by a very singular chance,

or by the management of these most extraordinary insects.

Upon another evening, they made their appearance in such great

numbers as to darken the floor of the corner of the room from which

they proceeded. I sent for some dried leaves of the coco-tree, and

only got rid of the enemy by making in the house a bonfire upon the

spot of which they had taken possession. I had some pomegranate trees

at the back of the cottage, which I was preserving with great care;

and I had one evening particularly admired the beauty of one of these

plants, which was covered with red blossoms. In the morning the flowers

were still upon the tree, but scarcely any leaves remained; these

were upon the ground, and some of the destroyers were cutting off

the few which still were left, whilst their companions were occupied

below in conveying away the spoil. I could not avoid watching them

for some minutes, and admiring their ingenuity and systematic manner

of going to work; but soon I vowed vengeance upon these enemies, and

immediately commenced operations. There was a steep bank a little below

the cottage, which had every appearance of harbouring these insects,

for the red earth which lies at some distance below the surface of the

ground, was thrown up all around it. I placed four negroes below the

bank, to cut it away perpendicularly. They had not worked long before

the war commenced, for a war it was when some of the nests were laid

open. The ants came out in great numbers, but torches of dried coco

leaves were ready and a large fire, and with these weapons we had much

the advantage of them. The bank contained a vast number of circular

holes of about six inches diameter, which were placed at unequal

distances from each other, and many of them were without subterraneous

communications from one to the other. Every one had a passage to the

surface of the ground, and some of them had more than one leading

upwards. These nests or holes contained a substance of a grey colour,

which bore the appearance of thick cobwebs pressed closely together;

and on being squeezed in the hand it had a liquid feel, that is, the

skin was moistened by it. When put into water it swam upon the top.

We had placed a large brass basin upon the fire, and filled it with

water for the purpose of putting this substance into it. In some of the

circular holes there were no ants, but others were crowded with them.

Great numbers were destroyed; and the cottage and its neighbourhood

enjoyed for a short time some respite, but another horde from a

different quarter discovered that the place was untenanted, and we were

again persecuted.

There is another method of destroying the ants, which has only of

late years been introduced; but this is more particularly adapted to

their destruction when they are undermining a building. A mixture of

brimstone, and of any other substances which create a considerable

degree of smoke, is burnt at the entrance of the ant-hill, a hole

being in the first place dug around it, that the combustible matter

may be laid rather lower than the surface of the ground immediately

surrounding. Then a large pair of bellows is made use of to blow the

smoke down the aperture; now it is necessary to observe, that all

the crevices by which the smoke is again ejected, should be stopped

up. If the operation is conducted with due attention it has been

found successful. It is likewise a means of discovering the several

communications of the same ant-hill, and thus being able with less

uncertainty to judge of the situation of the chief pot (_panella_) or

nest.

The red ant is particularly destructive to the mandioc plant, and in

many parts it is almost impossible to preserve the plantations of it

from them[117]. I recollect having planted a considerable quantity of

it in some low marshy ground, upon hillocks, and the land was so moist

that water remained in the furrows round the bottom of each hillock,

after the manner of dykes. On this account, I thought it superfluous

to desire that any precautions should be taken against the ants;

however, I rode one afternoon to see the field, and was surprised to

find that the plants upon some of the hillocks were deprived of their

leaves. I knew by whom this must have been done, but could not for some

minutes discover how the insects had been able to reach the mandioc. I

soon saw an ant-track and a few of the ants going along it; I followed

the track, and observed that they had formed a bridge of leaves across

one of the furrows, upon which they were going over. Some of them

crossed to and from the hillock, as I stood watching them.

There were several other species of ants of less bulk, which were

occasionally seen. The small red ant and the small black ant, both of

which feed on animal substances, would sometimes crowd around a fly,

a spider, a small lizard, or any other small animal or insect which

might lie dead upon the floor; and by degrees, a number sufficient to

move their prey would assemble, and they would convey it slowly along,

even up a white-washed wall, if the load was not heavier than usual. It

was a most unpleasant sight to watch these insects clinging to their

burthen on all sides of it, and so closely packed as to appear to be

one shapeless mass of moving substance. All species of ants have a

disagreeable smell; but the carnivorous small red ant is that which

is the most offensive. There is also another kind of small black ant;

it makes its nest in trees, and not near to and among the timbers of

houses. Though the size of this ant is very diminutive, being smaller

than any other species, it is a dreadful enemy to the large red ant,

owing to the numbers and determined courage of the black ant. These

small insects are sought after, and encouraged to build upon orange and

other fruit trees, which are liable to destruction from the large red

ant; and they effectually defend their appointed posts from the dreaded

invaders, if time has been given for their numbers to be equal to the

task. I have sometimes seen the entrance to the nest of the red ants

surrounded by the dead of both parties; but notwithstanding that the

number of black ants which are engaged is always much greater than

that of the red ant, still I observed that the slain of the latter

always out-numbered the former.[118]

The house in which I resided at Jaguaribe, had been in former times a

barn in which the sugar was put into chests for exportation; and I had

heard from the neighbours that the ants about it were numerous; and

particularly a small black ant called the _formiga douda_, or foolish

ant, owing to its not appearing to have any track, but to wander about

the spot upon which the horde has appeared, running fast to and fro,

and irregularly. These are distinguished from the black ant of the

orange trees by this name of _douda_. One evening I had been asleep

in my hammock, and was not a little surprised on waking, to see that

part of the wall opposite to me, which was white-washed, appeared to

be covered with a piece of black cloth; I got up, and approached it

with the lamp in my hand. I soon saw what it was, and could not help

shuddering, for the sight, I may say, was horrible; myriads of these

ants were marching along the wall, and their numbers were rapidly

increasing. I had scarcely recovered from the first surprise, when

on looking round, I saw that the other side of the room was in the

same state; I left the place quickly, and calling to some of the

negroes, desired them to bring coco and palm-leaves in abundance; this

was done, and operations being actively set on foot against them by

applying lighted leaves to the walls, we soon got rid of the major

part of the ants; however many of them escaped by retreating into the

numerous cracks in the walls. The next morning the walls were again

white-washed, and as many of the crevices filled up as possible. On

another occasion, I was awakened in bed in the middle of the night, by

a sensation in my feet as if they had been pricked gently by many pins.

I jumped up, and as there was a light in the room, I soon perceived

what had caused the uneasy sensations; several of these black ants were

running about my legs, and upon the bed and floor they were every

moment becoming more and more numerous. I escaped, and as soon as the

bed cloaths were removed the scene of burning the host of enemies was

re-acted.

There yet exists another description of ants, called the _tioca_; these

are black, and on the whole are even larger than the destructive red

ant; but I never saw the _tioca_ in great numbers; and when I have

observed them, it has been near to where sugar is kept, running to

and fro without any settled path and seemingly without any plan of

operations. Their bite is still more painful than that of the red ant.

The ants were not my only persecutors at Itamaraca, for these were

assisted by the _copim_, (_termes arborum_), who build their enormous

nests, called in Brazil _panellas_ (pots) among the rafters of houses,

which they destroy in the course of time; and likewise they form their

settlements upon trees. They oftentimes made their covered ways along

the white-washed walls of my house, or up the door posts; but I took

every precaution against them, which was more particularly necessary

in this instance, as my dwelling was not built of the best kinds of

timber. I was advised to besmear the places in which they persisted

in attempting to build with treacle, and I found that this was

successful in making them alter their proceedings. It is well known in

that country by all those persons who have paid any attention to the

subject, that there are certain kinds of timber which are more liable

to be attacked by these insects than others. However, a person who was

about to build a house, chose to think that the distinction which the

carpenters made in the several kinds of timber which they recommended

him to obtain, either proceeded from some sinister views in the men,

or from prejudices which they had imbibed. Therefore, contrary to

the advice of his workmen and of his friends, he purchased any kinds

of timber which were presented to him for sale, not attending to the

quality but to the price. The house was built, and he had already

either removed to it or was upon the point of so doing, when it was

discovered that the _copim_ had attacked some of the principal timbers;

and at last it was judged expedient to pull down a considerable part

of the building, without which the whole would have fallen a sacrifice

to the insects. A solution of the substance of which the nest of the

_copim_ is formed, is used as an injection by the peasants in aguish

disorders.[119]

I have not yet mentioned all the persecutors; for besides those

which have been here named, and the famous _chiguas_, of which I

have elsewhere spoken, there are the _moribondos_, a black insect,

resembling somewhat the large red and the _tioca_ ant in shape; the

_moribondo_ is supplied with wings, and has a most painful sting in

the tail. It forms its nest upon the trunks and branches of trees;

and in clearing lands, the negroes always proceed with much care,

that they may not be taken unawares by these insects; for on a nest

being disturbed, they fly out in great numbers; notwithstanding every

precaution, this will occasionally happen; and I have known a negro to

be unable to work for several days after he has been stung by them. The

parts which are affected swell and become inflamed, and the sufferer

experiences for a day or two the alternate sensations of violent cold

and burning heat, similar to the symptoms of aguish disorders. When the

negroes discover the nest without disturbing its inhabitants, dried

palm leaves are lighted, and the nest is destroyed by fire. The insects

are not often all killed, but those which escape appear to be stupified

by the fire and smoke, and do not leave the nest. I have handled them

when they have been in this state, for they become harmless; however,

after a short time, their activity returns. There are three species of

_moribondo_; the black, of which I have treated; the white, which are

so called, although they are only partially white; and the _moribondo

formiga_, which are distinguished from the black _moribondo_, in

bearing a still greater resemblance to the large black ant.

The bats also failed not here to annoy me, for they persecuted my

horses. They fasten upon the ears of the beasts, or upon their backs,

if there is any spot from which the skin has been rubbed. I have in

travelling sometimes been made particularly uneasy at their attacks

upon the horses; for unless we had some animals above the requisite

complement, it was necessary to load them with the wound open. The skin

of an owl is often hung up in a stable for the purpose of scaring the

bats.

In laying open the ant-hill which I have above-mentioned, we discovered

a couple of the _cobras de duas cabeças_, or two-headed snakes or

worms; each of them was rolled up in one of the nests. These snakes are

about eighteen inches in length, and about the thickness of the little

finger of a child of four or five years of age. Both extremities of the

snake appear to be exactly similar to each other; and when the reptile

is touched, both of these are raised, and form a circle or hoop to

strike that which has molested it. They appear to be perfectly blind,

for they never alter their course to avoid any object until they come

in contact with it, and then without turning about they crawl away

in an opposite direction. The colour is grey inclining to white, and

they are said to be venomous. This species of snake is often found in

ant-hills, and I have likewise killed them in my house; they frequent

dung-hills and places in which vegetable matter has been allowed to

remain for a length of time unremoved.

The island of Itamaraca is said to be less infested with snakes than

the main land, and perhaps this opinion is founded on experience;

but some of those which are generally accounted venomous certainly

exist upon it. A rattle-snake was killed at Amparo two years previous

to the period of which I am speaking. A horse died one night in my

neighbourhood, and his death was attributed to the bite of a snake;

there was a wound upon him, and his body was much swoln. Manoel killed

a _cobra de veado_, or antelope snake (_Boa Constrictor_) which he

brought home to shew me. It was a young one, of seven feet in length,

and about the thickness of a man’s arm. The name which it bears of

antelope snake proceeds from the destruction which it causes among

these animals. The full-grown snake of this species lies in wait for

the antelope and other animals of the same size; it entwines its tail

around a tree, and patiently expects that its prey will pass within

its reach; when this occurs, it encircles the unfortunate animal with

its enormous body, thus securing it. I never could discover, after

much enquiry, that it had ever been found in a torpid state, digesting

its food. Men have sometimes been caught by them; but if the person so

situated can draw his knife, his escape is very possible, though he

will probably receive several wounds. The opinion is general in the

country that the person who receives the bite of one of these snakes,

has nothing farther to fear from that of any other snake of whatever

description.

One of the negroes whom I had hired with the plantation of Jaguaribe,

had one leg much thicker than the other. This was occasioned, as he

told me, by the bite of a rattle-snake; he said, that he had been cured

from the bites of snakes by a _Curador de cobras_ or _Mandingueiro_,

and had therefore not died; but that “as the moon was strong[120],”

he had not escaped receiving some injury from the bite. He had

frequently violent pains in his limbs, at the full and change of the

moon particularly, and sometimes the wound opened, and remained in

this state for weeks together; but if he was careful in not exposing

it to the early dews of the morning, it would again heal without any

medicinal applications being made use of.

The most beautiful reptile which I saw was the _cobra de coral_,

or coral snake or worm. It is about two feet in length, and of the

thickness of a man’s thumb; it is marked with black, white and red

stripes transversally. The general opinion is that it is venomous.[121]

But the snakes do not cause so much annoyance as the smaller species of

vermin which I am about to mention; because the former seldom enter the

houses, nor are they very frequently to be seen in the paths or roads.

But the _aranha caranguejeira_, or crab-spider, (_aranea avicularia_);

the _lacraia_ or scorpion, and the _piolho de cobra_, or snake louse,

(_scolopendra morsitans_), are to be met with in the houses and in

all situations. They should be carefully avoided, for their bites

are painful, and are said to cause inflammation. An instinctive

recollection of the chance of meeting with these or other vermin of

less importance became so habitual with me (and indeed is so with most

persons) that when I was about to begin to read, I closed the book in

the first place violently so as to crush any thing that might have

crept in between the leaves; when my hat, or boots, or cloaths were put

on, some precaution was taken, as a thing of course; this was not done

from a direct idea of the likelihood of finding any thing unpleasant

in that immediate instance; but the precaution was entered into from

habit, unconsciously. I was one day bit by a _lacraia_; I had mounted

my horse, and had taken my umbrella in my hand for the purpose of

shading me from the sun when I had advanced farther upon my ride; when

I was in the act of opening it, I felt suddenly a violent pain upon

the fleshy part of the inside of one of my hands; on looking down I

soon saw what it was that had bitten me, upon which I turned back, and

rode home. I applied the juice of lemons to the part, and in about half

an hour, not finding any particularly disagreeable sensations, again

mounted my horse. The only effect which I experienced from the bite was

a numbness in my hand for the remainder of the day, and a redness about

the point which was immediately affected; but on the following day the

former was removed, and the latter did not last long. Labat mentions an

instance in which the bite of a scorpion caused as little inconvenience

as that which I have related. When I mentioned to some of my neighbours

the slight consequences of the bite, they ascribed it to the state of

the moon.

In the month of September, I went up the river in a canoe to Iguaraçu.

The distance from my residence was two leagues. The river or creek has

two mouths, which are situated in the bay of the village of Camboa,

which is immediately opposite to Conception. In the river there are

several islands which are covered with mangroves, and are too low to

be cultivated; the banks of the river are likewise lined with the same

description of plant, excepting at one point to the left in going up,

where the bank is high and perpendicular, and projects considerably.

At this place the forest trees come down to the edge of the bank. Near

to the town of Iguaraçu the mangroves have been destroyed, and perhaps

upon some particular spots they did not originally grow. When the tide

is out, the quantity of water which remains in the river is trifling,

and in some parts it is nearly dry; indeed, were it not for two places

of inconsiderable breadth, where the water is always deep, a man on

foot might walk along its bed from about one mile above Camboa to the

town. I came down from Iguaraçu one day at the ebb of the tide in a

small canoe, which held one man besides myself; it was with difficulty

that he could find a channel in which there was sufficient water to

float our vessel. It was to Conception that the Portugueze came down

from Iguaraçu for provisions, during the siege of the latter place by

the savages in 1548, as is related by Hans Stade. I also observed one

of the spots at which the savages attempted to sink the boat as it

returned, by means of letting a large tree fall upon it[122]. The town

of Iguaraçu was plundered, and the inhabitants slaughtered by the Dutch

in 1632, under the direction of the dreadful mulatto Calabar.[123]

The mangroves entirely destroy the beauty which it is natural to

suppose that the rivers of the country of which I am treating would

possess. Until they are destroyed a dull sameness presents itself, for

the eye cannot penetrate beyond them. Upon the banks of the Capibaribe

they have given place to houses and gardens, and the alteration is

most pleasing; upon the banks of the Maria Farinha, the mangroves are

beginning to give way to cultivation at the settlements (_sitios_)

of Jardim and Olaria; but the Iguaraçu is without any break, and the

Goiana is, I understand, in the same state. There are plantations along

these rivers, but the owners content themselves with merely cutting

a path through the mangroves down to the water’s edge, so that to a

stranger who goes up the rivers the country appears to be uninhabited,

until he passes some of these small openings, at which a canoe or a

_jangada_ is moored; but the openings are very narrow, and are only to

be seen on coming immediately opposite to them. The mangroves grow as

far down as low water-mark, and when the tide is out their entangled

roots and sprouts, and their stems covered with oysters and besmeared

with mud, are left uncovered; but at the height of the tide these are

concealed, and the water reaches up to the branches of the trees, so

that those which bend downwards are partly wetted, presenting to the

beholder the view of a forest growing in the water. This species of

mangrove sometimes attains the diameter of fifteen or eighteen inches,

and the height of twenty-five or thirty feet. There are two species

with which I am acquainted, the _mangue vermelho_ or red mangrove, of

which I have been speaking, and the _mangue bravo_ or wild mangrove.

The bark of the former is used for tanning, and the timber is much

esteemed for beams and rafters in building, but it cannot be used as

posts, for under ground it decays very quickly; nor as railings, for

it does not bear exposure to the weather. A considerable trade is

carried on from Itamaraca, and from some other parts to Recife, in

the wood of these plants, which is used as fuel. The tree grows again

as often as it is cut down if the root is not injured, and with such

rapidity that the supply of the wood will, for a length of time—I mean

unless the destruction of the plant becomes more extensive than it is

at present—be fully adequate to the demand for it. The fish forsake

those parts to which the trees are brought to be cut up for firewood.

This may be judged to proceed from the properties of the bark. In a

fish-pen, (_cural de peixe_) near to my place no fish was caught after

the fuel-cutters had established themselves at the bridge hard by; of

this I heard much, as there was some squabbling upon the subject. The

ashes of the mangrove plants are used as _temper_ in the sugar boiling

houses.[124]

As I did not, in 1814, suppose that on the following year I should

be recalled, I began to make some addition to my cottage, for it was

too small for me; and besides it was old, and was constructed of

bad timber, which caused it to be much infested by the ants and the

_copim_. I had a considerable quantity of timber of excellent quality

at Jaguaribe, which had been prepared by me for building there, and

therefore I determined to send for it. Permission was also obtained

from the owner of the Engenho Novo, to cut down some trees in his

woods, for which he ultimately refused to be paid. The woods of his

plantation came down nearly to the water’s edge near to Camboa, and

were consequently very conveniently situated for my purpose. The

building was to be constructed of wood and mud,—that is, of thick

posts supporting the roof and smaller posts at fixed distances between

the principal ones, and the openings between each of them were to be

filled up with mud. I could not help regretting that such beautiful

woods as those which were used should be employed in purposes so much

beneath their worth. The _pao ferro_ or iron wood, which is also called

the _coraçam de negro_ or the negro’s heart[125], was the most valuable

of those which I employed. The outward coat of the wood of this tree

is not particularly hard, but the heart destroys many hatchets. I

have seen some of this timber taken out of the ground after standing

for many years as a supporter to the roof of a house; and though

the outward coat was crumbling into dust, the black heart seemed to

be literally of iron, or to have increased rather than decreased in

hardness[126]. This wood admits of considerable polish; but the black

wood, which is most esteemed for furniture, is the _jacaranda_; this is

also hard, but is much more penetrable than the _pao ferro_, and the

polish to which it may be brought is more complete.[127]

The _pao d’arco_ is another valuable wood, and is so called, I imagine,

from the use which the Indians made of it for their bows; it is much

used in building, and is accounted almost as durable as the _pao

ferro_. It admits of being cleft into splinters, which are flexible

without breaking. The _pao d’arco_ has the property of retaining fire

for a long time without being stirred, and of yielding a bright light

if the log be occasionally touched. The peasantry take advantage of

this, and cleave the logs into several narrow splinters, of which they

form a bunch; this being lighted, serves them as a flambeau. Formerly,

likewise, when every thing was in a ruder state even than it is now

in Brazil, the sugar-works were lighted with logs of _pao d’arco_

instead of oil; indeed I have heard that some of the mills in the back

settlements still continue this practice. The ashes of this tree are

used as _temper_ in the boiling houses of the mills. The number of fine

species of timber in Brazil is very great, but I am myself acquainted

only with a few of them.[128]

The _louro_ is a large tree, and of it there are three species, all of

which are used principally for the beams of houses, for the timber of

them rots quickly under ground or if it be exposed to the weather. The

most esteemed timber for doors, window-shutters, floors of houses, &c.

is the _pao amarello_ or yellow wood. This is a large tree, and the

name which it has obtained, continues to be sufficiently appropriate

for the first six months after it has been cut down; but the yellow

colour is after this period lost, and the wood becomes of a dirty

brown. The canoes are almost exclusively made of the _pao amarello_.

The _pao santo_ or holy-wood is scarce, and is much sought after for

certain purposes, as it is not liable to split, bend, or break; it is

particularly required for the teeth of the sugar-rollers. The wood

is beautifully veined with yellow and brown, but becomes after some

time of a dusky brown colour. There is likewise a tree which is called

_cedro_, but whether it is the cedar or not I cannot determine; the

wood is hard, and is much esteemed for building.[129]

I cut down all the mangroves which grew along the borders of my piece

of land, and likewise some other kinds of trees which grew just beyond

the reach of the salt-water; among these was the _aroeira_, a small

irregular tree, of which the wood is soft, and not even fit for timber;

the only use to which the plant is put, is, that as the leaves have

an aromatic smell, they are used in curing fish, to which they impart

a slight portion of their odour; they are placed upon the _girau_ or

_boucan_, and the fish is laid upon them; fish is likewise packed in

the leaves of the _aroeira_ when about to be sent to a distance[130].

The tree only grows in situations near to the sea. Good fences might

be made of it for the stakes take root; I used some of the trees for

this purpose. The _molungo_ and the _pinham_ have likewise this last

property; and as the former is supplied with strong sharp thorns, this

advantage renders it preferable to the _aroeira_. The _molungo_ grows

spontaneously in moist situations, but the stakes take root even if

the soil is dry, unless no rain falls for some time after it has been

planted. Great numbers of the _molungo_ grew near to my house, just

below a spring of water which oozed from the side of the hill. The

cow-itch was also found here in abundance; it is called by the peasants

_machonan_.

The _pinham_ requires less rain and grows quicker than the _molungo_,

but it is without thorns, and the plant is not nearly so large. The

seed of the _pinham_ is used as an emetic by the peasants, and is

violent in its operation, a very small quantity being sufficient even

for an adult. The fruit incloses three seeds, and is about the size

of the common hazel-nut. During the third attack of ague which I had

whilst I was at Jaguaribe, I placed myself under the direction of an

old mulatto woman, than whom I never saw any one more like a witch;

and indeed poor old Antonia had the reputation of being somewhat of a

_mandingueira_. However she gave me a dose of _pinham_, which, I think,

consisted of four seeds, but they were picked out from a heap of others

for their superior size. The dose acted most violently and effectually

produced vomiting, and although excessive weakness followed the

disorder was removed. I begged her to give me a quantity equal to what

she had administered, that I might take it to Recife; this I shewed to

a practitioner, who answered that he should have imagined that such a

dose would have killed any one; but the old reputed sorceress knew full

well, that a dangerous disease requires to be severely attacked[131].

After the ague left me, my nurse would not be satisfied until she

applied the bark of the _mutamba_ tree to my stomach; or rather the

application was made just below the ribs, which she said was to prevent

_dureza_; this she described as a hardness immediately under the lower

rib of each side, which sometimes was produced by the ague, and which,

if precautions were not taken in time ended in dropsy. I did not suffer

her to continue the _mutamba_ for many days, for I found that I was

well, and wanted no more nostrums. The _mutamba_ is a small tree,

having a straight stem; it grows to the height of eighteen or twenty

feet, and to the diameter of twelve or eighteen inches. The bark is

easily torn off, and is extremely glutinous.

The _Gameleira preta_ (black,) so called from the dark colour of its

bark, is a large tree which grows in low marshy grounds; the stem

contains a white juice, which is much sought for as a medicine in all

eruptive complaints and in dropsy; it is likewise given inwardly. The

juice is obtained by making an incision in the stem, and leaving a

vessel into which the liquid may drop. There is another species of the

same tree, which is distinguished by the name of white _gameleira_, and

this is useless.

I was obliged in September to forsake my house for three days from a

most unexpected cause. A whale was stranded upon one of the sand-banks

at the mouth of the harbour; this being the third time that the

inhabitants of Itamaraca had been favoured with visitors of this

description. _Jangadas_ were sent out to it, and when the tide came

in, it floated, and was towed into the harbour, where the persons who

were employed in the business landed it, as near as they could at high

water mark, in front of and distant from my house about three hundred

yards. Many of my neighbours were occupied in making oil; for any one

who pleased was at liberty to take as much of the blubber as he could

make use of; and one man fairly got into the whale, and ladled out the

fat which was melted by the heat of the sun. When the people left the

carcase, either at mid-day or at night, it was attacked by numerous

flights of _urubus_, and was literally covered by them. The trees

round about the spot were occupied by these enormous birds, which were

waiting for an opportunity of satisfying their boundless appetites. The

_urubu_ is nearly twice the size of the common crow of England; it is

quite black, excepting at the point of the beak, which is white, as I

have been told, but this I did not observe. Wherever there happens to

be the carcase of an animal, these birds assemble shortly after the

death of the beast, and they seem to arrive in greater or less numbers

according to the size of the carcase. The peasants tell many stories

about the king of the _urubus_, who has a tuft of red feathers upon his

head, but I never heard any coherent account of this sovereign.

The stench proceeding from the whale became in a few days so

intolerable as to render a removal necessary, and therefore I applied

to an old creole black, a carpenter, to allow me to reside in his

cottage, which was neat and clean. To this he agreed; whilst he went to

live with some of his friends.

Travels in Brazil · 第 14 / 23 章