RETURN.—FROM SEARA TO NATAL.—SERTANEJOS.—CATTLE.—VEGETABLE
WAX.—FROM NATAL TO RECIFE.
I LEFT Searà at day-break with three Indians, and three loaded horses,
and one of the young men with whom I had formed an acquaintance
accompanied me to a short distance from the town. I deviated on my
return to Aracati, in some measure, from the road by which I had
travelled to Searà. The first day passed without any circumstance
worthy of being mentioned, and I was chiefly occupied in finding
out what sort of beings my Indians were, for I had had very little
conversation with them before we set off. In the afternoon of the
second day, having asked one of the Indians if the road was intricate
to our next resting-place, and being answered, that there was no
turning by which I could lose the right path, I left the loaded horses
and rode on, being tired of following them at a foot’s pace;—this I
had often done on other occasions. About five o’clock I put up at a
cottage in which were two boys, whose appearance was very wretched, but
they seemed glad to say that they would let me have a night’s lodging.
On enquiry, they told me that their parents were gone to some distance
to make paste from the stem of the Carnàûba, for that their usual
food, the flour of the mandioc, was no longer to be had at any price
in that neighbourhood. I was shown some of this paste, which was of a
dark brown colour[46], and of the consistence of dough that has not
been sufficiently kneaded; it was bitter and nauseous to the taste.
On this substance these miserable people were under the necessity of
subsisting, adding to it occasionally dried fish or meat. My party
arrived about an hour after me, and late in the evening, the younger
boy began to beg; inconsiderately I gave him money, but shortly he
returned, saying his elder brother desired him to tell me, that it
would be of no use to them, as nothing could be purchased with it.
Then I understood their meaning in begging at this moment,—my men
were going to supper,—the children were of course desired to sit down
with them. Here Feliciano, one of the Indians, sewed two hides loosely
round the two bags of _farinha_, saying, that if we proceeded without
disguising what they contained, we should at some hamlet upon the road
be obliged to satisfy the people, who would probably beg part of it
from us. He had not known, before he enquired from these children,
that this part of the country was in such a dreadful state of want.
The inhabitants had eaten up their own scanty crop, and some of them
had even been tempted by the exorbitant price, to carry their stock to
Searà for sale. They had not heard of the supply which had arrived at
that place from the southward. We reached Aracati on the fifth day.
I remained two days at Aracati, that the horses might be brought from
the island upon which they had been put out to grass. I experienced
fully now what the guide had before told me respecting the horses. They
had all lost flesh, and were apparently less fit for work than when I
first arrived at Aracati, though doubtless the relief from daily work
for so long a period must have rendered them better able to renew it
again now. The Spanish discoverers in South America, who understood
the business into which they had entered, strongly inculcated to their
people the necessity of the steady and regular continuance of their
journies, unless a pause could have been made for some length of
time[47]. I bought a large dog at Aracati, which had been trained to
keep watch over the baggage of travellers.
A man presented himself here, requesting to be allowed to go with me to
Pernambuco. He described himself as a Portugueze sailor, a European by
birth, and as having belonged to the Portugueze sloop of war, called
the Andorinha, which was wrecked upon the coast between Parà and
Maranham. He had travelled from the spot at which he had landed to this
place without any assistance from government. No provision had been
made by any of the men in power for the subsistence of the persons who
escaped. I consented to his joining me; he behaved well, and I never
afterwards had any cause to doubt the truth of his story.
I had now a great increase in my number of men and horses, but was
advised to take the men all forwards with me, as the rains might
commence and the rivers fill, in which case the more people I had to
assist in crossing them, with less danger would it be accomplished.
The additional number of horses enabled me to divide the weight into
smaller loads, and to have two or three beasts unencumbered, for the
purpose of relieving the others if necessary. The party now consisted
of nine persons and eleven horses.
Senhor Barrozo’s kindness was still continued towards me, and I hope I
shall never cease to feel grateful for it.
I was advised to get on to the sea-shore as soon as possible on leaving
Aracati, this being the better road; consequently I slept the first
night, distant three leagues from that place, at Alagoa do Mato—a
small lake which was now nearly dried up. The following morning we
travelled over the sands, passed a small village near to the shore
called Retiro, and slept at Cajuaes, a place we were acquainted with;
and from hence to St. Luzia we followed the same route as in going to
Searà. From Cajuaes we passed through Areias, famous for the ghost
story, and rested at Tibou, proceeding in the afternoon with the
intention of sleeping at the unfinished house on the road to Ilha; but
the night was closing in upon us when we were still two leagues short
of it, and for this reason it was thought adviseable to stop and pass
the night among the brushwood. We had had several showers of rain,
occasionally for some days past, and although they were slight, the
grass had begun to spring up in some places. The rapidity of vegetation
in Brazil is truly astonishing. Rain in the evening upon good soil
will by sunrise have given a greenish tinge to the earth, which is
increased, if the rain continues, on the second day to sprouts of grass
of an inch in length, and these on the third day are sufficiently long
to be picked up by the half starved cattle.
The brushwood among which we had determined to pass the night was low
and not close, so that only two shrubs were found to be near enough to
each other and of sufficient strength to support a hammock; between
these mine was hung, whilst the people took up their quarters upon
the packages as to them seemed best. Between one and two o’clock in
the morning the rain commenced, at first, with some moderation; the
guide fastened two cords from shrub to shrub above my hammock, and
laid some hides upon them as a covering for me, but soon the rain
increased, and the whole party crowded under the hides. I got up, and
all of us stood together in some degree sheltered, until the hides
fell down owing to their being quite soaked. Our fires were of course
completely extinguished. I reminded my people of the necessity of
keeping the locks of our fire-arms dry; indeed those persons of the
party who knew the Sertam must be even more aware than myself of the
numbers of Jaguars which are to be met with upon these _travessias_.
I had not spoken many minutes before Feliciano said that he heard
the growl of one of these animals—he was right, for a lot of mares
galloped across the path not far from us, and shortly after the growl
was distinctly heard; either the same or many of these beasts were
near to us during the remainder of the night, as we heard the growl in
several directions. We stood with our backs to each other and by no
means free from the chance of being attacked, though the Indians from
time to time set up a sort of song or howl, (such as is practised by
the Sertanejos when guiding large droves of half tamed cattle) with
the intent of frightening the Jaguars. Towards day-break the deluge
somewhat abated, but still the rain was hard and it did not cease. In
the morning there was much difficulty in finding the horses, as the
Jaguars had frightened and scattered them; indeed we much doubted that
they would all be alive, but I suppose the wild cattle were preferred
as being in better condition. The loads were arranged and we proceeded
to Ilha, distant six leagues, arriving there about two o’clock in the
afternoon, after having sustained twelve hours of continued rain. The
owner of the estate of Ilha sent a message to say that he wished me
to remove from the out-house, in which I had settled myself for the
remainder of the day and ensuing night, to his residence; I accepted
his offer. It was a low, mud cottage covered with tiles, which had been
made from the clay that is to be found upon the skirts of the salt
marsh near to which his house stood. He gave us plenty of milk and
dried meat; there was a scarcity of _farinha_, but a plentiful year
was expected. Immediately on my entrance into his house he offered me
his hammock, in which he had been sitting, but mine was soon slung and
we sat, talked, and smoked for a considerable time. The mosquitos were
very troublesome, indeed from this day we were scarcely ever without
them at night, and they annoyed us more or less, according to the state
of the wind and the quantity of rain which had fallen during the day.
The inconvenience occasioned by these insects is inconceivable, until
it has been experienced.
The next day we advanced to the village of St. Luzia, and rested at
noon there in an unfinished cottage. Soon after we had unloaded our
horses and I had lain myself down in my hammock intending to sleep, the
guide told me that a number of people appeared to be assembling near
to us, and that I ought to recollect the quarrel which we had had here
in going. I got up and asked for my trunk, opened it with as little
apparent design as possible, turned over several things in it, and
taking out the Red Bag, placed it upon a large log of timber near to
me, and then I continued to search in the trunk, as if for something I
could not immediately find. When I looked up again, in a few minutes,
all the persons who had assembled were gone—either the important
consequences attending this bag were known,—that of having the power
of making a requisition of horses, or some other idea of my situation
in life was given by the sight of this magical bag. The river near St.
Luzia had not yet filled. We proceeded in the afternoon and reached
the banks of the river Panema, a narrow but now a rapid stream. One of
the men went in to try if it was fordable, but before he was half way
across he found that it would be impossible to pass, as the rapidity
and depth would effectually prevent any attempt to carry the packages
over upon the heads of the Indians. I desired the people to remain
where they were, whilst I turned back with the Goiana guide to look
for some habitation, because, owing to the commencement of the rains,
sleeping in the open air would have been highly imprudent.
We made for a house, which was situated among the Carnàûba trees, at
some distance from the road, and as the owner of it said that he could
accommodate us, and that there was abundance of grass for our horses,
the guide returned to bring the party to this place, which was called
St. Anna. In the course of the night I had an attack of ague, which
would have delayed me at St. Anna even if the height of the waters had
not prevented me from proceeding. However I became more unwell, and
perhaps I imagined myself to be worse than I really was, but I began to
wish to arrive at Açù, as, by so doing, I should be advancing upon my
journey, and at the same time I should obtain the advantage of being
near to some priest, to whom I could impart any message which I might
have to send to my friends. Although I was not in immediate danger, I
was aware of the sudden changes to which aguish disorders are liable.
As soon as the waters began to subside I determined to remove, but as
I could not mount on horseback, it would be necessary that I should be
carried in a hammock; however the difficulty consisted in procuring
a sufficient number of men. By waiting another day six persons were
obtained from the cottages in the vicinity, some of which were distant
more than a league. On the fifth day from that of my arrival here, we
set off, crossed the river, which was barely fordable, and entered upon
the flooded lands. The waters covered the whole face of the country,
though they were now subsiding a little. The depth was in parts up to
the waist, but was in general less than knee-deep. The men knew the way
from practice, but even the guide whom I had hired at Açu could not
have found it without the assistance of those who carried me. At noon
the hammock with me in it was hung between two trees, resting the two
ends of the pole by which the men carried it upon two forked branches;
and hides were placed over this pole to shade me from the sun, as the
trees had not recovered from the drought and were yet without leaves.
The men slung their hammocks also, the packages were supported upon
the branches of trees, and the horses stood in the water and eat their
maize out of bags which were tied round their noses. The water was
shallow here, as this spot was rather higher than the lands around;
and in one place the ground was beginning to make its appearance. At
dusk we reached Chafaris, a _fazenda_, situated upon dry land, and here
we put up under an unfinished house. The horse upon which my trunk
and case of bottles had travelled, had fallen down, and to add to my
discomfort, my cloaths were completely wetted, and even the red bag did
not entirely escape.
I passed a wretched night, from the ague and from over fatigue. The
following morning I had some conversation with the owner of the place,
and purchased two of his horses. At noon I sent off the _comboio_,
under the care of Feliciano, who was desired to reach Piatô the
following night. I remained with the Goiana guide and Julio, who had
been promoted to John’s place of groom. With considerable difficulty
the packages were carried across the river, which runs just below
this estate; the stream was at present rapid, and the stony bed in
which it runs increased the difficulty. When I passed on the morning
following, the depth and rapidity of the current were considerably
diminished, for no rain had fallen during the night. I had mounted
the two persons who accompanied me upon the two horses which had been
purchased the day before, and I rode a led horse which was quite fresh;
resolving to arrive at Piatô, distant ten leagues, in one day; this I
accomplished, resting only a short time at noon. I was very unfit for
so much exertion, but the necessity of the case did not allow me any
alternative, and I was determined to ride until absolute exhaustion
forced me to give way.
We overtook my people, and all of us rested at the same place.
Feliciano shot an antelope, upon which we dined. It was seldom if
ever absolutely necessary to depend upon our guns for subsistence,
though the provision thus obtained was by no means unacceptable, as
it varied our diet. We could generally either purchase a considerable
supply of dried meat, or as occasionally occurred, it was afforded us
gratuitously. Sheep were sometimes to be bought, and at others, fowls
might be obtained on enquiring at the cottages; but although numbers of
the latter were to be seen about the huts, and a high price offered,
still the owners frequently refused to part with them. The women,
naturally enough, had the management of this department of household
arrangement, and after much bargaining, the housewife would often at
last declare, that all of them were such favourites, that she and her
children could not resolve to have any of them killed. This behaviour
became so frequent, that at last when either the guide or myself rode
up to a cottage to purchase a fowl, it was quite decisive with us,
if the husband called to his wife, saying that she would settle the
matter. Unless we had time to spare for talking, we generally went our
way.
My friend the commandant was still residing at Piatô; I felt as if I
was returning home; my spirits were low, and any trifle relieved them.
This night I was still very unwell, my thirst was great, and nothing
satisfied and allayed it so much as water-melons, of which there was
here a superabundance. I ate several of them. The guide said I should
kill myself; but I thought otherwise, for I liked the fruit. In the
morning I awoke quite a changed person, and the ague returned no more.
The guide often said afterwards that he never had known until the
present occasion, that water-melons might be taken as a cure for the
ague. He was quite certain that they had performed the cure, and that
they would have the same effect upon all persons in the same disease.
Such are the changes to which this strange complaint is subject; often
thus suddenly leaving the patient, but as frequently or more so, ending
in fever and delirium; however it seldom proves fatal.
On the morrow we left Piatô, with the addition to our party of a small
tame sheep, and a tame _tatu-bola_, or armadillo, both having been
given to me by the commandant. The former kept pace with the horses for
many days, and it never gave us any trouble, until the long continuance
of the journey wearied it out, and then I was obliged to make room
for it in one of the panniers; in this manner it travelled for a day
or two at a time. The armadillo was conveyed in a small bag, and
only on one occasion gave us any trouble; when we released it at our
resting-places, it usually remained among the packages, either feeding
or rolled up. It was with some difficulty that Mimoza was prevented
from annoying it; but latterly she and the armadillo were very good
friends. At Açu I changed one of my horses for another that was in
better condition, and gave about the value of a guinea to boot.
Our friends, the saddler and the owner of the house which we had
inhabited in going, received us very cordially, and offered to assist
us in crossing the river, which was full; but they advised me to wait
for a decrease of the depth and rapidity of the stream; however I was
anxious to advance, and my people made no objection. Here I discharged
the young man whom I had taken from hence as a guide to Aracati. We
crossed the smaller branch of the river, with the water reaching to
the flaps of the saddles. When we arrived at the second and principal
branch, it was discovered that a _jangada_ would be necessary to
convey the baggage across. Several of the inhabitants of the place
had followed us, judging that this would be the case, and they were
willing to be of service to us in expectation of being compensated for
their trouble. A few logs of timber were soon procured; some of them
had been brought down by the stream, and were now upon the banks, and
others were conveyed from the town; the cords with which the packages
were fastened to the pack-saddles were made use of to tie the logs
together, for the purpose of forming the raft. The father of the young
man who had been with me to Aracati accompanied us to the river side to
assist, and had brought Mimoza with him. I requested him to secure her,
otherwise I thought she would follow me; he did so, and sent her back
to the town by a boy. When the raft was prepared, the saddles and all
the packages were placed upon it, and I sat down among them. Four men
laid hold of each side of the raft, and shoved off from the shore, and
when they lost their footing, each man kept hold of the raft with one
hand, swimming with the other; but notwithstanding their exertions, the
stream carried us down about fifty yards before we reached the other
side, which however was gained in safety. The Indians were already
there with the horses. The river of Açu is from two to three hundred
yards in breadth; it was now deep and dangerous, and from the violence
of the current, a guide is requisite, that advantage may be taken of
the shallowest parts. The Sertanejos have a curious contrivance for
crossing rivers, which is formed of three pieces of wood, and upon this
they paddle themselves to the opposite side. I heard it often spoken of
by the name of _cavalete_; but as I did not see any of them, I cannot
pretend to give an exact description[48].
The men soon left us to arrange the loads, which we were doing with all
possible expedition, when on turning round, I saw Mimoza running up to
me, half crouched and half afraid. I had often wished to purchase this
animal, but nothing would induce her master to part with her; he said
that he had had her from a whelp, and added, that if he put the pot
upon the fire, and then went out with her, he was sure to return by the
time it boiled, bringing something with which to fill it. He did not
mean that this was literally the case; but thus quaintly he wished to
impress the idea of her great expertness in hunting. She followed us,
as she found that she was well received. We advanced, and halted at St.
Ursula, a _fazenda_, distant from Açu one league and a half, and here
we slept. The roads lay through woods, which were thick and close. From
hence to the Seara-meirim, the country was new to me, as I deviated
from the road by which I had arrived at Açu, on my way northwards. I
now took the shortest road to Natal, but had frequently to cross this
winding river.
Whilst I was at dinner, Mimoza was near to me, watching for her share,
when suddenly she crept under the bench upon which I sat; I soon saw
what had caused this movement, for the old man, the father of her
owner, was coming towards us; he said that he came for his son’s dog.
I persuaded him to sell her, and when he was going his way, Mimoza ran
out from under the bench and fawned upon him. I told him to go on,
and invite her to follow him; but upon this she immediately returned
growling to her old station under the bench. She had been better
treated and better fed with me than when she was with her master. I
always fed her myself, and had several times prevented him from beating
her.
The next day we passed through the _fazendas_ of Passagem and Barra;
the road was over loose stony ground and we crossed one dry marsh. In
the afternoon we travelled from S. Bento to Anjicos, which obliged us
to pass over some higher ground, which was very stony and painful to
our horses. We crossed a small shallow stream several times.
Our next day’s march carried us across more stony ground. The persons
to whom we spoke, said that there had been no rain, and indeed this
was evident. There was no grass, and the country was yet parched and
dreary. The horses had no water at noon, for the well was small, and
the spring which supplied it was insufficient for so great a number
of beasts. I was thirsty in the afternoon, and therefore left the
_comboio_ to follow at its usual pace, and rode on accompanied by
Julio; the two dogs likewise would come with us. We entered upon
a plain, and now for the second time I saw an _ema_, a species of
ostrich. Notwithstanding my attempts to prevent them, the dogs set off
after it, and much against my inclination I was obliged to wait until
their return. The bird ran from them with great velocity, flapping its
wings, but never leaving the ground. The _emas_ outstrip the fleetest
horses. The colour of the one which we saw was a dark grey; its height,
including the neck, which was very long, was about that of a man on
horseback, and it had that appearance at first sight, when at some
distance. The Sertanejos say, that when pursued the _ema_ spurs itself
to run the faster; that the spurs or pointed bones are placed in the
inside of the wings, and that as these are flapped, the bones strike
the sides and wound them. I have heard many people say, that when an
_ema_ is caught after a hard chase, the sides are found to be bloody.
It is possible that this effect may be produced by some cause similar
to that by which a pig cuts its own throat in swimming. The eggs of the
_ema_ are large, and although the food which they afford is coarse,
it is not unpalatable. The feathers are much esteemed. When the dogs
returned we continued our journey; the road led us between high rocks,
and after proceeding along it for some time, the dogs suddenly struck
from the path, and went up the side of a flat rock, which sloped
down towards the road, but was sufficiently low to allow of a horse
ascending it. Our horses stopped and snuffed up the air. Julio cried
out at the same time “water, water,” and spurred his horse to follow
the dogs, and I did the same. Julio was quite correct in what he had
supposed, from the direction which the dogs immediately took, and from
the stopping of the horses. There was a long and narrow but deep cleft
in the rock, which was nearly full of water, clear and cold. The sides
of the cleft slanted inwards, and the water was below the surface,
so that the dogs were running round and howling, without being able
to reach it; the horses too, as soon as we dismounted, and they saw
the water, began to paw, and attempted to press forwards to drink. We
had brought no vessel with which to take up any of it, and were under
the necessity of using our hats to satisfy the horses and dogs. The
rest of the party came up after some time; Feliciano was acquainted
with the spot, but if the dogs and horses had not pointed it out to
Julio, he and I should have missed it. We were delayed considerably
in giving water enough to all the horses, as we had no large vessel
in which to take it up. I heard from Feliciano, and subsequently from
other persons, that these clefts in the rocks are common; but that they
are known to few, and those principally of his rank and occupation in
life, and that this knowledge enabled them to find plenty of water
when others were in great distress. He said, “we never refuse to give
information, but we say as little about it as possible.” I travelled
until ten o’clock at night, wishing to reach some _fazenda_, and not
to remain in the open air, as there were several heavy clouds flying
about, from the look of which we well knew that if the wind abated,
rain would come on. We reached a _fazenda_, and applied for a night’s
lodging, which was granted; but upon a survey of the interior of the
house, I preferred the open air with all its disadvantages. The place
was full of persons who had assembled from the neighbouring estates, in
expectation of rain, as they had come to assist in collecting cattle.
The fellows were eating dried meat, and had by some means obtained a
quantity of rum. I took up my station at a distance from the house,
and we scarcely laid down during the night, from the fear of rain, and
in some measure that we might be prepared to prevent any of our horses
being stolen, as a piece of sport, by the people in the house.
The next day we crossed over a plain which was partly without trees and
in part covered with brushwood; in going over this last portion I had
pushed on with Julio, leaving the _comboio_ to follow us. We had nearly
lost our way at the division of several paths; even Julio’s knowledge
was insufficient, and had we not met some travellers and enquired of
them, I know not how far from the baggage we might have been at night.
On the following morning we advanced again, took water in skins near to
some cottages, and at noon stationed ourselves in the bed of a rivulet,
where there was good grass, but no water. As the bed was lower than the
neighbouring land the very first shower had made the grass spring up,
though there had not been rain sufficient to excite vegetation upon
its banks. Here the armadillo strayed into some brushwood; Feliciano
followed it by the marks of its footsteps over the grass and dry
leaves, and brought it back. I am quite confident that he did not see
which way it went, and to a person unused to tracing footsteps there
appeared to be none. If it had passed over sand, there would not have
been any thing extraordinary in discovering the way which the animal
had taken, but upon grass and dry leaves so small an animal could make
but a most trifling impression. I mentioned at this place accidentally
that the skins had spoiled the water, for it tasted of the grease with
which they had been rubbed. Feliciano heard me, and took up a small
skin that lay empty, which was old and therefore not greasy, and said,
“I’ll try to find some for you that is better;” and away he went. In
about an hour he returned with the skin full of excellent water. He had
recollected a cleft in a rock at some distance, and had gone to see if
any yet remained in it.
We slept at a _fazenda_, and the next day proceeded in the expectation
of reaching the Searà-meirim, which we did. This track of country had
not recovered from the drought, but the trees were beginning to be
cloathed, and the grass under them was in most parts of sufficient
length to afford subsistence to our horses. Water was still scarce and
bad, but the rain had made it less brackish and more plentiful. We
passed over the _travessia_ with all possible haste, as the floods were
expected shortly, and sometimes the water comes down, as I have before
stated, with great rapidity. There is some danger in being caught by
the water upon any of the peninsulas or islands which are formed by its
bends, for to be under the necessity of crossing over a stream which
runs with much violence, perhaps ten times or more successively, would
be too much for almost any horse to bear, and particularly for those
which were already fatigued by a long journey. We left the Searà-meirim
in four days, passed Pai Paulo, and early on the fifth day arrived
again at the dry lake. The people of this place were upon the point of
decamping, as the rains were expected or rather had already commenced.
We now met several parties of travellers, who had taken advantage
of the first rains to pass over this track of country, and who were
hastening before the floods came down the river.
January is not properly speaking the rainy season. The rains at the
commencement of the year are called the _primeiras aguas_ or the first
waters, and continue for about a fortnight or three weeks, after which
the weather generally becomes again settled until May or June, and
from this time until the end of August the rains are usually pretty
constant. From August or September until the opening of the year there
is not usually any rain. The dry weather can be depended upon with more
certainty from September until January, than from February until May;
likewise the wet weather can be looked for with more certainty from
June until August than in January. There are very few days during the
whole course of the year of incessant rain. What I have said regarding
the seasons must however be taken with some latitude, as in all
climates they are subject to variation.
The horse I left at the dry lake was faithfully delivered to me, and
I continued my journey on the following day to Natal. The governor
received me with the same cordiality as before.
I had now left the Sertam, and though it treated me rather roughly,
still I have always wished I could have seen more of it. There is a
certain pleasure which I cannot describe in crossing new countries,
and that portion of territory over which I had travelled was new to an
Englishman. From the sensations which I experienced I can well imagine
what those are, which travellers in unexplored countries must feel at
every step—at every novelty which comes under their view. There is
yet much ground upon the continent of South America to be traversed,
and I most heartily wish that it had been my fate to be the civilized
individual first doomed to cross from Pernambuco to Lima.
I have perhaps hardly said sufficient to give a correct idea of the
inhabitants of the _fazendas_ or cattle estates. Unlike the Peons of
the country in the vicinity of the river Plata, the Sertanejo has
about him his wife and family, and lives in comparative comfort. The
cottages are small and are built of mud, but afford quite sufficient
shelter in so fine a climate; they are covered with tiles where
these are to be had, or, as is more general, with the leaves of the
Carnàûba. Hammocks usually supply the place of beds and are by far
more comfortable, and these are likewise frequently used as chairs.
Most of the better sort of cottages contain a table, but the usual
practice is for the family to squat down upon a mat in a circle, with
the bowls, dishes, or gourds in the centre, thus to eat their meals
upon the floor. Knives and forks are not much known, and are not at
all made use of by the lower orders. It is the custom in every house,
from the highest to the lowest, as in former times, and indeed the same
practice prevails in all the parts of the country which I visited,
for a silver basin, or one of earthenware, or a _cuia_, and a fringed
cambric towel, or one that is made of the coarse cotton cloth of the
country, to be handed round, that all those who are going to sit down
to eat may wash their hands; and the same ceremony, or rather necessary
piece of cleanliness, takes place again after the meal is finished. Of
the gourds great use is made in domestic arrangements; they are cut in
two and the pulp is scooped out, then the rind is dried and these rude
vessels serve almost every purpose of earthenware—water is carried in
them, &c. and they are likewise used as measures. They vary from six
inches in circumference to about three feet, and are usually rather
of an oval shape. The gourd when whole is called _cabaça_, and the
half of the rind is called _cuia_. It is a creeping plant, and grows
spontaneously in many parts, but in others the people plant it among
the mandioc.
The conversation of the Sertanejos usually turns upon the state of
their cattle or of women, and occasionally, accounts of adventures
which took place at Recife or at some other town. The merits or
demerits of the priests with whom they may happen to be acquainted are
likewise discussed, and their irregular practices are made a subject
of ridicule. The dress of the men has already been described, but when
they are at home a shirt and drawers alone remain. The women have a
more slovenly look, as their only dress is a shift and petticoat, no
stockings, and oftentimes no shoes; but when they leave home, which
is very seldom, an addition is made of a large piece of coarse white
cloth, either of their own or of European manufacture, and this is
thrown over the head and shoulders; a pair of shoes is likewise then
put on. They are good horsewomen, and the high Portugueze saddle serves
the purpose of a side-saddle very completely. I never saw any Brazilian
woman riding, as is the case occasionally in Portugal, in the manner
that men do. Their employment consists in household arrangements
entirely, for the men even milk the cows and goats: the women spin
and work with the needle. No females of free birth are ever seen
employed in any kind of labour in the open air, excepting in that of
occasionally fetching wood or water, if the men are not at home. The
children generally run about naked until a certain age, but this is
often seen even in Recife; to the age of six or seven years, boys are
allowed to run about without any cloathing. Formerly, I mean before
the commencement of a direct trade with England, both sexes dressed in
the coarse cotton cloth which is made in the country; the petticoats
of this cloth were sometimes tinged with a red dye, which was obtained
from the bark of the _coipuna_ tree, a native of their woods; and even
now this dye is used for tinging fishing-nets, as it is said that those
which have undergone this process last the longer.
In those times, a dress of the common printed cotton of English or of
Portugueze manufacture cost from eight to twelve _mil reis_, from two
to three guineas, owing to the monopoly of the trade, by which the
merchants of Recife put what price they pleased upon their commodities;
other things were in proportion. Owing to the enormous prices, European
articles of dress could of course only be possessed by the rich people.
However, since the opening of the ports to foreign trade, English goods
are finding their way all over the country, and the hawkers are now a
numerous body of men. The women seldom appear, and when they are seen
do not take any part in the conversation, unless it be some one good
wife who rules the roast; if they are present at all when the men are
talking, they stand or squat down upon the ground, in the door-way
leading to the interior of the house, and merely listen. The morals
of the men are by no means strict, and when this is the case, it must
give an unfavourable bias, in some degree, to those of the women; but
the Sertanejo is very jealous, and more murders are committed, and
more quarrels entered into on this score, by tenfold, than on any
other. These people are revengeful; an offence is seldom pardoned,
and in default of law, of which there is scarcely any, each man takes
it into his own hands. This is without any sort of doubt a dreadful
state of society, and I do not by any means pretend to speak in its
justification; but if the causes of most of the murders committed
and beatings given are enquired into, I have usually found that the
receiver had only obtained what he deserved. Robbery in the Sertam
is scarcely known; the land is in favourable years too plentiful to
afford temptation, and in seasons of distress for food, every man is
for the most part equally in want. Subsistence is to be obtained in an
easier manner than by stealing in so abundant a country, and where both
parties are equally brave and resolute; but besides these reasons, I
think the Sertanejos are a good race of people. They are tractable and
might easily be instructed, excepting in religious matters; in these
they are fast rivetted; and such was their idea of an Englishman and a
heretic, that it was on some occasions difficult to make them believe
that I, who had the figure of a human being, could possibly belong
to that non-descript race. They are extremely ignorant, few of them
possessing even the commonest rudiments of knowledge. Their religion
is confined to the observance of certain forms and ceremonies, and to
the frequent repetition of a few prayers, faith in charms, relics,
and other things of the same order. The Sertanejos are courageous,
generous, sincere, and hospitable: if a favour is begged, they know
not how to deny it; but if you trade with them either for cattle, or
aught else, the character changes, and then they wish to outwit you,
conceiving success to be a piece of cleverness of which they may boast.
The following anecdote is characteristic. A Sertanejo came down from
the interior with a large drove of cattle, which had been entrusted to
him to sell; he obtained a purchaser, who was to pay him at the close
of two or three months. The Sertanejo waited to receive the money, as
his home was too far distant to return for this purpose. Before the
expiration of the term, the purchaser of the cattle found some means
of having him imprisoned; he went to him when he was in confinement,
and pretending to be extremely sorry for his misfortune, hinted, that
if he would allow him to appropriate part of the debt to the purpose,
he would try to obtain his release; to this the Sertanejo agreed, and
consequently soon obtained his freedom. He heard soon afterwards how
the whole of the business had been managed by the purchaser of the
cattle, to avoid paying for what he had bought, and he could not obtain
any part of the money. Having advised his employers in the Sertam of
these circumstances, he received for answer, that the loss of the money
was of little consequence, but that he must either assassinate the man
who had injured him, or not return home; because he should himself
suffer if the insult remained unrevenged. The Sertanejo immediately
made preparations for returning; he had always feigned great
thankfulness towards his debtor for obtaining his release, and a total
ignorance of his unjustifiable conduct. On the day of his departure,
he rode to the house of the man whom he had determined to destroy, and
dismounted, whilst one of his two companions held his horse; he saw
the owner of the house, and as he gave him the usual parting embrace,
ran his long knife into his side; he then quickly leapt on to his
horse, and the three persons rode off. None dared to molest them, for
they were well armed, and although this occurred in a large town, they
soon joined a considerable number of their countrymen who waited for
them in the outskirts, and proceeded to their own country, without any
attempt being made to apprehend them. These circumstances took place
several years ago; but the relatives of the man who was killed still
bear in mind his death, and a determination of revenging it upon him
who committed it, if he was again to place himself within their reach.
Many persons can vouch for the truth of the story.
The colour of the Sertanejos varies from white, of which there are
necessarily few, to a dark brown; the shades of which are almost as
various as there are persons: two of exactly the same tint are scarcely
to be met with. Children of the same parents rarely if ever are of the
same shade; some difference is almost always perceivable, and this is,
in many instances, so glaring, as to lead at first to doubts of the
authenticity; but it is too general to be aught but what is right. The
offspring of white and black persons leans, in most instances, more to
one colour than to the other, when perhaps a second child will take a
contrary tinge[49]. These remarks do not only hold good in the Sertam,
but are applicable to all the country which I had opportunities of
seeing. The Sertanejo, if colour is set aside, is certainly handsome;
and the women, whilst young, have well-shaped forms, and many of them
good features; indeed I have seen some of the white persons who would
be admired in any country. Their constant exposure to the sun, and its
great power at a distance from the sea, darkens the complexion more
than if the same persons had resided upon the coast; but this gives
them a decided dark colour, which has the appearance of durability, and
is much preferable to a sallow sickly look, though of a lighter tint.
The persons who reside upon and have the care of the cattle estates,
are called _Vaqueiros_, which simply means cowherds. They have a share
of the calves and foals that are reared upon the land, but of the
lambs, pigs, goats, &c. no account is given to the owner; and from the
quantity of cattle, numbers are reckoned very loosely; it is therefore
a comfortable and lucrative place, but the duties attending it are
heavy, require considerable courage, and great bodily strength and
activity. Some of the owners live upon their estates; but the major
part of those through which I passed, were possessed by men of large
property, who resided in the towns upon the coast, or who were at the
same time sugar-planters.
The interior of Pernambuco, Rio Grande, Paraiba, and Seara, contains,
properly speaking, no wild cattle[50]. Twice every year the herdsmen
from several estates assemble for the purpose of collecting the cattle.
The cows are driven from all quarters into the area in front of the
house, and here, surrounded by several horsemen, are put into spacious
pens. This being done, the men dismount, and now their object is, if
any of the cows are inclined to be unruly, which is often the case,
to noose them by the horns so as to secure them; or another mode is
adopted, which is by noosing one of the hind-legs, and carrying the
cord quite round the animal, so as to throw it down. The calves are
then caught, and this is done without much difficulty; they are marked
on the right haunch with a red-hot iron, which is made of the shape
that has been fixed upon by the owner as his peculiar mark. When the
oxen are to be collected for a market, the service is more dangerous,
and frequently the rider is under the necessity of throwing the animal
to the ground with his long pole, as I have in another place mentioned.
On the man’s approach, the ox runs off into the nearest wood, and the
man follows, as closely as he possibly can, that he may take advantage
of the opening of the branches which is made by the beast, as these
shortly close again, resuming their former situation. At times the
ox passes under a low and thick branch of a large tree, then the man
likewise passes under the branch, and that he may do this, he leans
to the right side so completely, as to enable him to lay hold of the
girth of his saddle with his left hand, and at the same time his left
heel catches the flap of the saddle; thus with the pole in his right
hand, almost trailing upon the ground, he follows without slackening
his pace, and being clear of this obstacle, again resumes his seat. If
he can overtake the ox, he runs his goad into its side, and if this
is dexterously done, he throws it. Then he dismounts, and ties the
animal’s legs together, or places one fore-leg over one of the horns,
which secures it most effectually. Many blows are received by these
men, but it is seldom that deaths are occasioned.
In crossing the Seara-meirim, I mentioned an instance of a cow having
strayed to an immense distance from its native pasture. This propensity
to ramble is common among horned cattle, even without its proceeding
from the scarcity of grass or water. Often at the time of collecting
the cattle, those persons who have been to a considerable distance to
assist others, drive back a number of beasts with their own mark; the
estate to which they belonged being distant twenty leagues or more.
When a traveller is in distress for water, he cannot do better than
to follow the first cattle-path, as these usually lead to the nearest
pool of water, in a direct line. The paths are easily distinguished,
being very narrow, and the wood uniting above, leaving open below only
a shady walk, of the height of the animals which made it.
Each lot of mares with its master horse is driven into the pens; this
consists of from fifteen to twenty in number. The foals are likewise
marked in the same manner as the calves. It is worthy of remark, and
the circumstance was often repeated to me, that the horse of the lot
drives from it not only the colts but the fillies also, as soon as they
are full grown. The fact was only qualified in two or three instances,
when told to me, by the person who related it adding, that if the
horse did not do so, he was taken from the lot, and broken for the
pack-saddle, being considered of a bad breed. When a horse is to be
tamed for any purpose whatsoever, he is noosed, after being put into
a pen, and is tied to a stake; on the following day, or perhaps the
same afternoon, if he appears at all tractable, a small low saddle is
placed upon him, and a man then mounts with a double halter. The animal
runs off with him, which the man, far from attempting to prevent,
rather urges him to do; though in general the whip and spur are not
made use of, unless he is obstinate and refuses to go forwards. Horses
of good breeds are said to be those most easily tamed. The horse runs
until he becomes weary, and is then brought back quietly by its rider;
and perhaps they do not reach the rider’s home until the following day.
The man must not dismount until he has returned to the spot from whence
he started, as he would probably experience great difficulty when he
wished again to proceed, from the restiveness of the horse. The same
operation is continued as long as the animal is not supposed to be
effectually broken in, and safe to mount. It happens on some occasions,
that by plunging, the horse gets rid of both man and saddle, and is not
again seen for a length of time; however, unless the girths give way,
he has little chance of throwing his rider, for the Sertanejos are most
excellent horsemen.
The horses are small, and some of them are finely shaped, though little
attention is paid to the improvement of the breed. Great stress is
laid upon the colour, in the choice of these animals; some colours
being accounted more demonstrative of strength than others. Thus a
cream-coloured horse, with a tail and mane of the same colour, is
rejected for the pack-saddle, or for any kind of severe labour; and
if horses of this description are sold for these purposes, the price
is lower than that of an animal of an equally promising appearance
in form and size, of any other tinge: they are much esteemed if well
shaped, as saddle-horses, for short distances. A cream-coloured horse,
with a black tail and mane, is reckoned strong. The horses that
have one fore-leg white, and the other of the colour of the body,
are supposed to be liable to stumble. The usual colours are bay and
grey; but chesnut, black, and cream-colour are less common; those
most esteemed for work are dark bays, with black tails and manes, and
greys dotted with small bay spots. Stallions are broken in both for
the saddle and for carrying loads in the neighbourhood of the towns;
but the Sertanejos, both from necessity and from their knowledge of
their superior ability to perform hard labour, make use of geldings.
It is not always safe to ride a high-spirited horse in the Sertam,
because when he begins to neigh, instances have occurred of some master
horse coming to give him battle, and as both are equally desirous of
fighting, the rider may perhaps find himself under the necessity of
placing himself at a distance from the combatants. However, if he
should chance to have a good stick in his hand, and can prevent his own
horse from rearing as the wild horse approaches, he may come off in
safety.
Sheep are kept upon every estate for their flesh, when that of a more
esteemed kind fails; that is, either when the oxen are in a meagre
state, owing to a long continuance of dry weather; or that the herdsman
is too much occupied at home, or too lazy to go out and kill one.
The mutton is never well-tasted, and though it is true that in the
Sertam no care whatever is taken in rearing or feeding the sheep,
still I do not think that this kind of meat is to be brought to any
great perfection[51]. The lambs are covered with fine wool, and this
continues until they are one year and a half or two years old; but
after this age, it begins to drop, and is replaced by a species of
hair. Although the wool should remain longer in some instances, it
appeared to me that it was coarse and short[52]. A wound upon the body
of this animal is more difficult to heal than upon that of any other,
and the flesh of it is of all others the most rapid in its advances to
putrefaction.
The division of property in the Sertam is very undeterminate, and this
may be imagined, when I say, that the common mode of defining the size
of a _fazenda_, is by computing it at so many leagues; or, as in some
cases, by so many hundreds of calves yearly, without any reference to
the quantity of land. Few persons take the trouble of making themselves
acquainted with the exact extent of their own property, and perhaps
could not discover it if they made the attempt.
The climate is good; indeed the inland flat country is much more
healthy than that immediately bordering the coast. I can hardly name
any disorders that appear to be peculiar to it; but several are known.
Agues are not common, but they exist. Dropsy also they are acquainted
with. Ulcers in the legs are common, but less so than upon the coast.
Ruptures frequently occur. The small-pox[53] makes dreadful ravages,
and the measles are much dreaded. When the venereal disease has once
settled, the sufferer seldom gets rid of it entirely; applications of
herbs are used, but as these people are unacquainted with or unable to
follow its proper mode of treatment, some of the patients are crippled,
and the major part of them never again enjoy good health. The yaws also
is to be met with; but I had afterwards more opportunities of seeing
this complaint, and will therefore not now give any account of it.
Instances of consumption occur. The hooping-cough did not appear to be
known in any part of the country which I visited; I made many inquiries
respecting it, but could not obtain any information upon the subject. I
slept many times in the open air, and never felt any bad effects from
so doing. The dew is trifling, and a high wind is usual in the night.
The sun is powerful, and is of course particularly felt in travelling
over sandy loose soil; but it did not seem to do any mischief. I never
suffered from head-ache, and excepting the attack of the ague, which is
accounted for from the heavy rain which we experienced, I never enjoyed
better health.
The food of the inhabitants of the Sertam consists chiefly of meat,
of which they make three meals; and to this is added the flour of the
mandioc stirred up into paste, or rice sometimes supplies its place.
The bean, which is commonly called in England the French bean, is a
favourite food; it is suffered to run to seed, and is only plucked up
when quite dry and hard. I have often been surprised to see of how
little service maize is to them as food, but yet it is occasionally
used. In default of these, the paste of the carnàûba is made; and I
have seen meat eaten with curds. Of green vegetables they know nothing,
and they laugh at the idea of eating any kind of salad. The wild fruits
are numerous, and to be obtained in any quantities, but few species are
cultivated; among the latter are the water-melon and the plantain. The
cheese of the Sertam, when it is fresh, is excellent; but after four or
five weeks, it becomes hard and tough. Some few persons make butter,
by shaking the milk in a common black bottle, but this must of course
be experimental, and not general. In the towns even of the Sertam,
rancid Irish butter is the only kind which is to be obtained. Wherever
the lands admit of it, these people plant mandioc, rice, &c. but much,
I may say the greater part of the vegetable portion of their food, is
brought either from more fertile districts near to the coast, or from
the settlements still further back,—the vallies and skirts of the
Cariris, Serra do Teixeira, and other inland mountains.
The trade of the Sertam consists in receiving small quantities of
European manufactured goods[54]; the cotton cloth of the country, of
which they make some among themselves; a small portion of European
white earthenware, and considerable quantities of the dark brown
ware of the country, which is made for the most part by the Indians
who live in the districts that contain the proper kind of clay; rum
in small casks; butter, tobacco, snuff, sugar or treacle made up in
cakes, spurs, bits for bridles, and other gear for their horses,
excepting the saddles, of which the greater part are made in their
own districts; gold and silver ornaments also find a market to a
certain amount. The pedlars travel about from village to village, and
from one estate to another, bartering their commodities for cattle of
all kinds, cheese, and hides of horned cattle. A colt of from two to
three years, sells for about one guinea; a horse broken in for the
pack-saddle, for two or three guineas; a horse broken in for mounting,
from five to six guineas. A bullock of two years, ten shillings; a
full grown ox, one guinea and a half; a cow varies much, according
to the quantity of milk, from one guinea to five guineas. A sheep,
from two to three shillings; a goat for slaughter is worth even less,
but a good milch goat is valued at one guinea, and sometimes higher.
Children are frequently suckled by goats, which increases the value of
these animals. The goat that has been so employed always obtains the
name of _comadre_, the term which is made use of between the mother
and godmother of a child; and so general is this, that she-goats are
frequently called _comadres_, without having had the honour of suckling
a young master or mistress. Dogs are sometimes valued at from one to
two guineas, and even higher, if they are good sporting, or good house
and baggage-dogs. A fowl is as dear as a sheep or goat; and in one
instance, as has been related, I paid four times the money for one
of these birds that I had given for a kid. The hawkers seldom obtain
money in exchange for their wares; they take whatever is offered, and
hire people to assist in conveying the cattle or produce to a market,
where they are exchanged for goods, and then the owner again returns. A
twelvemonth is sometimes passed in turning over the property once; but
the profits are usually enormous; two or three hundred _per cent._
During my stay at Natal, the governor shewed me a species of wax which
is produced from the leaves of the carnàûba, a tree I have frequently
mentioned. A quantity of this wax was sent by him to Rio de Janeiro;
it is mentioned in one of Dr. Arruda’s publications, and a sample
of it found its way to England, and has been taken notice of by the
Royal Society[55]. The governor, in one of his journeys through his
province, passed the night, as often happened, in a peasant’s cottage.
A wax candle was lighted and placed before him, which was rudely made,
but afforded a good light; he was somewhat surprised at this, because
oil is generally used; on making enquiry, he found out that the wax
dropped from the leaves which covered the cottage, during the heat
of the day;—I suppose the cottage had been newly built, or that a
fresh covering of leaves had been put on to it. He afterwards made the
experiment himself, tried some of the candles, and became confident
of the importance of the vegetable wax. The governor also gave me
a piece of iron ore, which was the produce of the captaincy of Rio
Grande. He told me that he entertained little doubt of the existence
of considerable quantities of this metal in this part of the country,
and that the Government would be well recompensed for their trouble, if
proper persons were appointed for the purpose of making discoveries on
this subject. I saw some cloth which he had ordered to be woven from
the thread of the crauatâ[56]. Its texture was not unlike that of the
coarse linen which is used for sheeting; it is very strong. I have some
of the thread in my possession.
As soon as I had arranged that I should leave Natal in the morning of
the 6th February, the governor told me that he intended setting off on
business relating to his province at the same time. We took leave of
each other at night, and in the morning when I rose, I found myself in
possession of the house, as he had set out at four o’clock. We did not
get away until about seven, owing to the number of horses’ loads, and
other matters which it was necessary to arrange. I felt quite at home
at Natal, though I was yet distant from Recife seventy leagues; but the
country is well watered, well wooded, and comparatively well peopled.
I passed again through St. Joze, the Indian village, but did not
turn off from the road towards Papari. I slept at a hamlet, and in
the morning proceeded to Cunhàû. About ten o’clock we were under the
necessity of turning loose, and leaving behind upon one of the plains,
a horse which I had purchased at Chafaris; he was completely fagged,
and could not proceed farther. The colonel of Cunhàû was not at home,
but his steward wished me to make use of his master’s house; however,
I merely mentioned having left a horse at some distance upon the lands
of the plantation, and the guide drew for his government the mark
which it had upon the haunch. I have often observed the quickness of
these people in recognising a mark which they have once seen, and the
accuracy with which they will draw it after having only taken seemingly
a casual glance, and perhaps after a period of some weeks has elapsed
since they had had even this[57]. We then rode on half a league to the
hamlet. The commandant of this place introduced himself to me, and was
extremely civil; he put my horse into his stable and wished me to stay
until the following morning, but I preferred advancing, and slept the
same night at another hamlet two leagues beyond. This day we passed
several rivulets which were all much swollen, but none of them were
sufficiently full to prevent the continuance of our journey. There
had already been some rain, and the face of the country bore a more
pleasing appearance. Two letter-carriers passed through the place in
the evening, and I wrote by them to a friend at Pernambuco, that the
cottage at the Cruz das Almas might be ready for me on my arrival.
The next day we passed some sugar plantations and over some hills;
the country was most beautiful, for every thing looked green and
healthy. I crossed a considerable rivulet at the foot of a hill, and,
ascending on the opposite side, put up at a single cottage, which was
inhabited by white people; an old man, a widower, with a fine family
of handsome sons and daughters. Their cottage had not room for us
all, and therefore we intended to sleep in the open air altogether,
but the old man insisted upon my going to sleep in the house, and I
was not sorry for this, being rather afraid of a return of the ague.
Nearly at sunset, or at the close of the day, which in that country are
almost about the same time, the tame sheep was missing; great search
was made for it, but to no purpose. The old man ordered two of his
sons to set out, and not to return until every enquiry had been made
in the neighbourhood. I did all in my power to prevent giving this
trouble, but he persisted, saying, “No, you are under my roof, and this
unfortunate circumstance may lead you to have an unfavourable opinion
of me.” Long after dark the young men returned with the sheep and a
mulatto man in custody. I wished the man to be released, but they said
that this could not be, for he was a runaway slave, who had committed
many depredations, and for whose apprehension a considerable reward was
offered by his master. They had followed the footsteps of the sheep
upon a sandy path as long as the day-light lasted, and then had taken
a direction, which they thought might lead to some _mocambos_, or huts
of the wood, made by runaway slaves. After they had proceeded a little
way, the bleating of the sheep was heard, upon which they prepared
themselves and came suddenly upon this fellow and a woman who were in a
hut; the woman escaped, which they regretted, as she was likewise most
probably a runaway slave. The man was taken into the house, and was
tied fast upon a long bench with his face downwards, and the cord was
passed round his arms and legs several times; this was done in the room
which I was to inhabit for the night. The whole of the family retired
to rest, and left us together; I had my knife with me, but naturally
soon fell asleep. In the morning the bench and the cords remained, but
the man was gone; he had crept through a small window at the opposite
end of the room. The young men of the house were sadly vexed, but I
told them it was their own fault, for some of them should have kept
watch, as they could not suppose that I should remain awake, who had
come in fatigued from travelling. We were now afraid that he might have
taken one of our horses for his more convenient escape, but this was
not the case.
Our journey took us again through the village of Mamanguape; and a
little distance beyond it, I left the road, accompanied by the guide,
and went to the principal house of a sugar plantation, where we asked
for a night’s lodging. I was told that the master was not at home,
and great doubts seemed to be entertained of taking us in. Whilst we
were talking at the door, a young man of dark colour came up, mounted
a horse which was standing there without a saddle, and rode off,
seemingly avoiding to observe that there were any strangers present.
One of the black women said, “Why did not you speak to him, for he is
one of our young masters.” I now enquired and discovered that the owner
of the place and his family were mulattos. This was the only instance
of incivility I met with, and the only occasion on which a night’s
lodging was denied to me during the whole course of my stay in Brazil.
We lodged this night under a tree, distant about one hundred yards from
the _engenho_, near to a neat and comfortable looking cottage, of which
the owner was an elderly woman; she was civil to us, and expressed her
sorrow at the treatment which we had received. There had been very
little rain here, for the grass in the field of the plantation had
still a parched look, and the cattle were in bad condition.
Towards the evening of the following day we reached a hamlet, and at
one of the cottages I obtained permission to pass the night. There was
a pent-house standing out from the front; these are usual even for
dwellings of wealthy persons. Under it I slung my hammock, but was
surprised to find, that though the house was inhabited, still the door
was shut, and that the person within spoke to us, but did not open it.
This I thought strange, and began to suppose that he might be afflicted
with some contagious disorder and had been forsaken by his friends, or
rather, that his family had been advised to remove to some neighbouring
cottage. But the guide explained, saying that the man had been bitten
by a snake, and that the bite of this species only became fatal if
the man who had received it saw any female animal, and particularly
a woman, for thirty days after the misfortune. As the lower orders
imagine that all snakes are poisonous, it is not surprising that many
remedies or charms should be quoted as efficacious. It is well known
that many of those reptiles are innoxious, but as this is not believed
by the people in general, it is naturally to be supposed that any cause
rather than the true one is ascribed on a recovery from a bite.
On the morrow we left these good people in expectation of their
friend’s restoration to health at the allotted period, and proceeded
to dine on the banks of the river Paraiba, at a spot which was not
far distant from the plantation of Espirito Santo, where we had slept
on our way northwards. The river was still as dry as it had been
during the drought, that is, the pools or hollows in the bed of it
had water in them, but they did not contain a sufficient quantity to
overflow, unite, and form a stream. We arrived upon the banks about
ten o’clock, and heard from several persons of a report which had
been spread, that the river was filling fast. About twelve o’clock
the water made its appearance, and before we left it the river was
three feet deep. We afterwards heard that the stream was not fordable
at five o’clock of the same afternoon, and that it continued to run
with great rapidity for some days. I went round to Espirito Santo and
spoke to the _capitam-mor_, but did not dismount, as I was more and
more anxious to end my journey. We slept at a single cottage about two
leagues beyond, and on the following morning again set forth. About
noon, for I had pushed on without resting until this hour, we were
descending a long and steep hill, when a violent shower of rain came
on, which soon caused a torrent to run with much noise and velocity
through the gullies in the road. The clay of which the hill was
composed was rendered excessively slippery, and far from proceeding
more quickly, the horses became more cautious; and on these occasions
it is needless to attempt to urge them forwards faster than they
themselves are willing to go; they are aware of the danger of a false
step, and nothing the rider can do will make an old roadster alter his
usual manner of proceeding. At the foot of the hill stood a _venda_ or
liquor shop, at which travellers were in the habit of putting up. Most
of the hamlets contain one of these places, and we had met with them
much more frequently since we had entered upon the great cattle road.
Wet as we were, through and through, it would have been impossible to
go on further this day, therefore we were thankful in having a house
so near; indeed, the rain continued during the greatest part of the
afternoon. We had descended into a narrow and beautiful valley, much of
which was covered with flourishing plantations of sugar cane, looking
very green and luxuriant. This was not the first night that I had seen
the beautiful luminous insect, _elater noctilucus_, which is called by
the Portugueze _cacafogo_. It is to be met with chiefly in well wooded
lands, and emits at intervals a strong but short lived light.
After leaving this place the next morning, we discovered that we had
lost some trifles belonging to our baggage. I sent the guide and
another man back to seek for them; but they returned unsuccessful. We
had, it is true, seldom taken up our lodgings in public houses, but
perhaps if we had done so oftener, I should have had more reason to
complain; however as it is, this was the only occasion upon which I
lost any part of my baggage, with a suspicion of theft attached to its
disappearing.
We rested at mid-day near Dous Rios, and in the afternoon passed
through that place, arriving at Goiana about sunset. It will be
remembered that I purchased some of my horses at Goiana; now on my
return, two of the same animals were still with me, and this alone
proves that they were of the best kind. When we were distant from
Goiana about one league, one of them made towards a narrow path to the
right of the road, and was prevented by his driver from turning up
into it, but immediately after passing it, he began to flag, and in a
few minutes I was under the necessity of having him released from his
load, and of desiring one of the men to lead him, otherwise he would
have turned back. He had from this time the appearance of being quite
fatigued. I can only account for the circumstance by supposing that
the path led to his former master’s residence, and that the animal had
proceeded thus far in expectation of ending his journey here.
I was received by my friends at Goiana in their usual friendly manner;
but I found that the town was in a dreadful state from the scarcity of
provisions. One person was said to have died of hunger, and I was told
by an inhabitant that several respectable women had been at his house
to beg for _farinha_, offering to pawn their gold ornaments for it.
On the morning of the 15th February, I left Goiana, and assisted my
people in crossing the river. As soon as they were all safe on the
Recife side of it, I pushed on accompanied by Julio and Feliciano, all
three of us being mounted upon our best horses. We rested during the
heat of the day at Iguaraçu. My horse recognized the place, for as he
entered the town, he quickened his pace, and without being guided, went
up to the door of the inn, from whence he refused to stir again until
I dismounted. We arrived a little after sunset at the Cruz das Almas.
John was prepared for me, but did not expect me for one or two days.
The following morning I rode to Recife, and was received by my friends
as one who had been somewhat despaired of; and even my particular
friend to whom I had written, did not expect me so soon. When I
returned home in the evening, the rest of the party had arrived; and
Feliciano and his two companions set off two days afterwards on their
return to Searà[58]. Julio likewise left me, with which I was much
displeased.[59]