SCENES AT HAVRE DE GRACE.

Peace of 1814—The Bourbons and _émigrés_ generally—Motives of the author

in visiting the continent—His departure from England with his

family—Arrival at Havre de Grace—The _Côteau d’Ingouville_—Doctor

Sorerie and his _graduated scale_—The Pavilion Poulet—Price of

commodities at Havre—Rate of exchange—English assumption abroad—The

author’s rural retirement disturbed by Napoleon’s return from

Elba—Circumstances attending the announcement of this fact at

Havre—Previous demonstrations of the inhabitants of the town, and more

particularly of the military quartered there—Uniform of the old

guard—Two Russians mutilated by the mob—Retirement of Louis _le

Désiré_ from Paris—Curious variety of feeling manifested among the

people at Havre—Policy of the priests—Good humour of all

parties—Recruiting for the _Emperor_ and the _King_—Consternation of

the English at Havre—Meeting at the house of the consul, Mr. Stuart—A

vinous harangue—Prompt embarkation of the British—Accommodations of a

storehouse—The huissiers and the spring showers—_Signs_ of the times.

On the abdication of the Emperor Napoleon in the year 1814, my curiosity

was greatly excited to view the alteration which different revolutions,

a military government, and a long-protracted warfare, must necessarily

have made in the manners, habits, and appearance of the French people.

My ardent desire to see the emperor himself had been defeated by his

abdication, and no hope remained to me of ever enjoying the sight of so

celebrated a personage.

The royal family of France I had the honour of meeting often in society

during the long visit with which they favoured the British nation;—the

last time was at Earl Moira’s, one of their most zealous friends: my

curiosity on that score was therefore quite satisfied. I had also known

many, and had formed a very decisive opinion as to most, of their

countrymen who had emigrated to England; nor has the experience acquired

during my residence in France at all tended to alter the nature of that

opinion. Some of these men have, I fear, the _worst memories_ of any

people existing!—indeed, it should seem that since their return home,

they must have drunk most plentifully of Lethe.

I was extremely desirous also to see the persons who had rendered

themselves so conspicuous during the long and mighty struggle wherein

the destinies of Europe were all at stake—the great heroes both of the

field and cabinet; and, therefore, upon the restoration of King Louis, I

determined to visit Paris, the rather as my family were infected with

the same curiosity as myself.

Accordingly we set out on our journey, taking Havre de Grace in our

route to the metropolis. I was then in a very declining state of health,

and consequently unnerved and incapable of much energy either mental or

corporeal. On arriving at Havre, I was so captivated by the fine air and

beautiful situation of the Côteau d’Ingouville, (rising immediately over

the town,) that we determined to tarry there a few months, and visit

Paris in the spring, when my health and strength should be renovated;

and never did any person recover both so rapidly as I did during the

short period of my sojourn on that spot.

Doctor Sorerie, (the first physician at Havre,) told me that he divided

the hill of Ingouville into three medical compartments: “the summit,”

said he, “never requires the aid of a physician—the middle portion only

twice a year—the base _always_.” His fanciful estimate, he assured me,

was a perfectly true one; and, on the strength of that assurance, I

rented the beautiful cottage on the summit of the hill, called the

_Pavillon Poulet_, now occupied, I believe, by the American consul. All

around was new to me: of course I was the more observing; and the result

of my observations was, that I considered Havre, in 1815, as being a

hundred years behind England in almost every thing. Tea was only sold

there as a species of _medicine_, at the apothecaries’ shops; and

articles of _cotton_ manufacture were in general more than double the

price of _silk_ fabrics. The market was very good and very moderate; the

hotels most execrable. But the most provoking of all things which I

found at Havre was the rate of _exchange_: the utmost I could get for a

one-pound Bank of England note was sixteen francs; or for an accepted

banker’s bill, sixteen francs and a half to the pound (about fourteen

shillings for my _twenty_). This kind of thing, in profound peace,

surprised me, and the more particularly, as the English _guinea_ was at

a premium, and the _smooth_ English _shilling_ at a _high_ premium,

though of little intrinsic value.

A visit paid to the continent after so very long an exclusion, really

made one feel as if about to explore a kind of _terra incognita_, and

gave everything a novel and perhaps over-important character to the

traveller. In a country altogether strange, ordinary occurrences often

assume the dignity of adventures; and incidents which at home would

scarcely have been noticed, become invested on the sudden with an air of

interest. Our fellow-countrymen are too apt to undervalue every thing

which differs from their own established ways either of acting,

thinking, or eating. For this overbearing spirit they have been and are

plentifully and justly quizzed by the natives of other countries. Yet

they exhibit few signs of amendment. An Englishman seems to think it

matter of course that he must be lord of the ascendant wherever he

travels, and is sometimes reminded of his mistake in a manner any thing

but gentle.[42] The impatience he constantly manifests of any foreign

trait, whether of habit or character, is really quite amusing. If

Sterne’s _Maria_ had figured away at Manchester, or his Monk at

Liverpool, both the one and the other would have been deemed fit objects

either for a mad-house or house of correction: probably the girl would

have been committed by his worship the mayor to Bedlam, and the old man

to the treadmill. In fact, Yorick’s sentiment in France would be

nonsense at Birmingham; and La Fleur’s letter to the corporal’s wife be

considered as decided evidence of _crim. con._ by an alderman of

Cripplegate.

-----

Footnote 42:

In the years 1815 and 16, the very frequent quarrels between the

French and English gave rise to a curious embarrassment. The French

would only fight with the _sword_, the English with the _pistol_; it

was impossible to please both parties: however the French soon put the

matter into a course of equality. _Schools_ to _teach_ pistol-firing

were established in divers parts of Paris: the best “_point-blankers_”

were provided. Each student paid a small fee for ten shots and proper

instructions: they began by firing at a large _baby_; first, at his

_body_, then his _head_, and at length at his _eye_. The young

Frenchmen soon became the very _best shots_ I ever saw: even “Sligo”

now need not be ashamed of them. Hence quarrels have grown far less

frequent; indeed _rare_, but generally _fatal_: that _accounts for

it_.

-----

As for myself, I have of late felt a sort of medium sensation. As men

become stricken in years, a species of venerable insipidity insinuates

itself among their feelings. A great proportion of mine had turned sour

by long keeping, and I set out on my travels without one quarter of the

good-nature which I had possessed thirty years before. My palate was

admirably disposed at the time to feast upon novelties, of which I had

made up my mind to take a full meal, and thought I should be all the

better prepared by a few months of salubrious air and rural

tranquillity.

The interval, however, which I had thus devoted to quiet, and thorough

reinstatement of health upon the breezy and delightful Côteau

d’Ingouville, and which I expected would flow on smoothly for some

months, (without the shadow of an adventure, or, indeed, any thing

calculated to interfere with my perfect composure,) turned out to be one

filled with the most extraordinary occurrences which have ever marked

the history of Europe.

The sudden return of Napoleon from Elba, and the speedy flight of the

French king and royal family from the Tuileries, without a single effort

being made to defend them, appeared to me, at the time, of all possible

incidents the most extraordinary and least expected. The important

events which followed in rapid and perplexing succession afforded me

scope for extensive observation, whereof I did not fail to take

advantage. My opportunities were indeed great and peculiar:—but few,

comparatively, of my fellow-countrymen had as yet ventured into France:

those who did avail themselves of the conclusion of peace in 1814, fled

the country in dismay, on the return of Napoleon; whilst I, by staying

there throughout his brief second reign, was enabled to ascertain facts

known to very few in England, and hitherto not published by any.

At Havre it appeared clearly to me that Napoleon, during his absence,

was any thing but forgotten or disesteemed. The empress, when there, had

become surprisingly popular amongst all classes of people; and the

misfortunes of her husband had only served to render his memory more

dear to his brother-soldiers, by whom he was evidently still regarded as

their general and their prince. In truth, not only by the soldiers, but

generally by the civic ranks, Louis, rather than Napoleon, was looked on

there as the usurper.

There were two regiments of the line at Havre, the officers of which

made no secret of their sentiments, whilst the men appeared to me

inclined for any thing but obedience to the Bourbon dynasty. The spirit

which I could not help seeing in full activity here, it was rational to

conclude, operated in other parts of the kingdom, and the justice of

this inference was suddenly manifested by the course of events.

We were well acquainted with the colonel and superior officers of one of

the regiments then in garrison. The colonel, a very fine soldier-like

man, about forty-five, with the reputation of being a brave officer and

an individual at once candid, liberal, and decided, was singularly frank

in giving his opinions on all public subjects. He made no attempt to

conceal his indestructible attachment to Napoleon; and I should think

(for his tendencies must necessarily have been reported to the

government) that he was continued in command only from a consciousness

on their part that, if they removed him, they must at the same moment

have disarmed and disbanded the regiment,—a measure which the Bourbon

family was then by no means strong enough to hazard.

On one occasion, the colonel, in speaking to me whilst company was

sitting around us, observed, with a sardonic smile, that his _master_,

Louis, was not quite so firmly seated as his _émigrés_ seemed to think.

“The puissant allies,” continued he, sneering as he spoke, “may change a

_king_, but” (and his voice rose the while,) “they cannot change a

_people_.”

Circumstances, in fact, daily conspired to prove to me that the army was

still Napoleon’s. The surgeon of that same regiment was an Italian,

accounted very clever in his profession, good-natured, intelligent, and

obliging; but so careless of his dress, that he was generally called by

us the “dirty doctor.” This person was less anxious even than his

comrades to conceal his sentiments of men and things, both politically

and generally; never failing, whether in public or private, to declare

his opinion, and his attachment to “the exile.”

A ball and supper was given by the _prefect_ and other authorities of

Havre in honour of _Louis le Désiré’s_ restoration. The affair was very

splendid: we were invited, and went accordingly. I there perceived our

dirty doctor, dressed most gorgeously in military uniform, but _not that

of his regiment_. I asked him to what corps it appertained: he put his

hand to his mouth, and whispered me, “C’est l’uniforme de _mon cœur_!”

(“Tis the uniform of my heart!”) It was the dress uniform of Napoleon’s

old guard, in which the doctor had served. The incident spoke a volume,

and (as to the sentiments of its wearer) was decisive.

About six weeks after that incident two small parties of soldiers of the

garrison passed repeatedly through the market-place, on a market-day,

with drawn swords, flourishing them in the air, and crying incessantly,

“Vive _Napoleon_! vive _l’Empereur_!” but they did not manifest the

slightest disposition towards riot or disturbance, and no body appeared

either to be surprised at or to mind them much. I was speaking to a

French officer at the time, and he, like the rest of the spectators,

showed no wish to interfere with these men, or to prohibit the

continuance of their exclamations, nor did he remark in any way upon the

circumstance. I hence naturally enough inferred the state of public

feeling, and the very slight hold which _Louis le Désiré_ then had upon

the crown of his ancestors.

A much more curious occurrence took place, when a small detachment of

Russian cavalry, which had remained in France from the termination of

the campaign, were sent down to Havre, there to sell their horses and

embark for their native country. The visit appeared to me to be a most

unwelcome one to the inhabitants of the place, and still more so, as

might be expected, to the military stationed there. The Russians were

very fine-looking fellows, of large size, but with a want of flexibility

in their limbs and motions; and were thence contrasted rather

unfavourably with the alert French soldiery, who, in manœuvring and

rapid firing, must have a great advantage over the northern stiffness.

I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted at Havre with Mr. Wright, a

very respectable gentleman, and I believe, by affinity, a nephew of Mr.

Windham. We had been in a café together, and were returning to our hotel

about ten o’clock at night, when we saw a small assemblage of people

collected at the church-door in the main street. There were some women

amongst them, and they seemed earnestly employed on some business which

the total darkness of the night prevented us from seeing. There was in

fact no light around save one glimmering lamp in the porch of the

church-door, where the people appeared fairly knotted together. There

was scarcely any noise made above a sort of buzz, or as it were, rather

a _suppression_ of voices. Mr. Wright remained stationary whilst I went

across the street to reconnoitre; and after a good deal of peeping over

shoulders and under arms, I could perceive that the mob was in the act

of deliberately cutting off the ears of two powerful-looking Russian

soldiers, who were held so fast by many men, that they had not the least

capability of resistance. They seemed to bear the application of the

blunt knives of their assailants with considerable fortitude, and the

women were preparing to complete the _trimming_ with scissors!—but one

glance was quite enough for me. I got away as quick as thought; and as

the circumstance of Mr. Wright wearing mustaches might possibly cost him

his ears, I advised him to get into a house as soon as possible: he took

to his heels on the suggestion, and I was not slow in following. The

next day I saw one of the Russians in the street with a guard to protect

him—his head tied up with bloody cloths, and cutting altogether a most

frightful figure. All the French seemed highly diverted, and shouted out

their congratulations to the Russian, who however took no manner of

notice of the compliment.

I believe the authorities did all they could in this affair to apprehend

the trimmers, but unsuccessfully. Some individuals were, it is true,

taken up on suspicion; but as soon as the Russians were embarked they

were liberated. In fact the local dignitaries knew that they were not as

yet sufficiently strong to enforce punishment for _carving_ a Russian.

I often received great entertainment from sounding many of the most

respectable Frenchmen whose acquaintance I made at Havre with regard to

their political tendencies; and the result as well of my queries as of

my observations led me to perceive that there were not wanting numerous

persons by whom the return of Bonaparte, sooner or later, was looked

forward to as an occurrence by no means either violently improbable, or

undesirable.

Nevertheless, no very deep impression was made on my mind as to these

matters, until one morning Lady Barrington, returning from Havre,

brought me a small printed paper, announcing the emperor’s actual return

from Elba, and that he was on his route for Paris. I believed the

evidence of my eye-sight on reading the paper; but I certainly did not

believe its contents. I went off immediately to my landlord, Mr. Poulet,

a great royalist, and his countenance explained circumstances

sufficiently before I asked a single question. The sub-prefect soon left

the town: but the intelligence was scarcely credited, and not at all to

its full extent. I went into every café and public place, and through

every street. In all directions I saw groups of people, anxious and

busily engaged in converse. I was much amused by observing the various

effects of the intelligence on persons of different opinions, and by

contrasting the countenances of those who thronged the thoroughfares.

I did not myself give credence to the latter part of this

intelligence—namely, that Bonaparte was on his way to Paris. I could not

suppose that the king had found it impracticable to command the services

of a single regiment; and it must be confessed that his majesty, a man

of excellent sense, had, under all the circumstances, made a very bad

use of his time in acquiring popularity, either civil or military.

Notwithstanding the addition of _Désiré_ to his Christian name,

(wherewith it had been graced by _Messieurs les émigrés_,) it is

self-evident that outward demonstrations alone had been conceded to him

of respect and attachment. I never heard that _surname_ appropriated to

him at Havre, by-the-bye, except by the prefects and revenue officers.

The dismal faces of the Bourbonites, the grinning ones of the

Bonapartists, and the puzzled countenances of the neutrals were mingled

together in the oddest combinations: throughout the town every body

seemed to be talking at once, and the scene was undoubtedly of the

strangest character, in all its varieties. Joy, grief, fear, courage,

self-interest, love of peace, and love of battle—each had its votaries.

Merchants, priests, _douaniers_, military officers, were strolling

about, each apparently influenced by some distinctive feeling: one

sensation alone seemed common to all—that of astonishment.

The singularity of the scene every moment increased. On the day

immediately ensuing fugitives from Paris, full of news of all

descriptions, came in as quick as horses and cabriolets could bring

them. Bulletin after bulletin arrived—messenger after messenger! But all

the dispatches in any shape official combined in making light of the

matter. The intelligence communicated by private individuals, however,

was very contradictory. One, for instance, stated positively that the

army had declared _against_ Napoleon; another that it had declared _for_

him; a third that it had not declared at all! One said that Napoleon was

_surrounded_:—“Yes,” returned a bystander, “but it is by his _friends_!”

Towards evening every group seemed to be quite busy making up their

minds as to the news of the day, and the part they might think it

advisable to take: as for the English, they were frightened out of their

wits, and the women had no doubt that they should all be committed to

gaol before next morning.

I observed, however, that amidst all this bustle, and mass of

conflicting opinions, scarce a single priest was visible: these cunning

gentry had (to use a significant expression) determined, if possible,

“not to play their cards till they were sure what was _trumps_.” On the

preceding Sunday they had throughout the entire day been chanting

benedictions on Louis le Désiré and on St. Louis his great-grandfather;

but on the sabbath which followed, if they chanted at all, (as they were

bound to do,) they would necessarily run a great risk of chanting for

the last time in their lives, if they left out Napoleon; and, inasmuch

as they were unable to string together Louis le Désiré, Napoleon, and

St. Louis, in one _benedicite_, a most distressing dilemma became

inevitable amongst the clergy! Common sense, however, soon pointed out

their safest course: a plea of _compulsion_ operating on the meek

resignation of their holy trade, might serve as an excellent apology, on

the part of an ecclesiastical family, in the presumption of Louis’s

becoming victor; but in the emperor, they had to deal with a different

sort of person, as they well knew—with a man who would not be put off

with unmeaning excuses, and in due homage to whom it would be dangerous

to fail. Under all circumstances, therefore, they took up a line of

conduct which I cannot but think was very wise and discreet, proceeding

as it did upon the principle “of two evils choose the least.” Their

loyalty was decided by their fears, which sufficed to stimulate the

whole body of priests and curés at Havre, old and young, to uplift their

voices with becoming enthusiasm in benediction of “Napoleon le Grand!”

Indeed they seemed to be of opinion that, having taken their ground, it

would be as well to appear in earnest; and never did they work harder

than in chanting a _Te Deum laudamus_ in honour of their old master’s

return: to be serious, I believe they _durst_ not have done otherwise;

for I heard some of the military say very decidedly, that if the priests

played any tricks upon the occasion, they would _hash_ them!

The observation which surprised me most of all was, that though the two

parties had declared themselves, and the _fleur-de-lis_ and eagle were

displayed in direct opposition to each other throughout the town;—though

the sub-prefect had run away, whilst the tricoloured flag was floating

in one place, and the white one in another,—no _practical_ animosity or

ill blood whatsoever broke out amongst the respective partisans. The

bustle somewhat resembled that of an English election, but had none of

the violence or dissipation, and only half the noise, which circulate on

those august occasions. On the contrary, civility was maintained by

every one: the soldiers were very properly kept in their barracks; and

an Englishman could scarcely conceive so polite, peaceable, temperate,

and cheerful a _revolution_—more particularly as neither party could

tell on which side the _treason_ would ultimately rest.

At length orders came from Napoleon, at Lyons, that the imperial army

should be recruited; while, at the very moment this order arrived, some

of the merchants and officers of the national guards were actually

beating up for the royal armament. The drums of the respective partisans

rattled away through every street, and the recruiters often passed each

other with the utmost courtesy: not one man was seen in a state of

intoxication on either side. Meanwhile there was no lack of recruits to

range themselves under either standard; and it was most curious to

observe that these men very frequently changed their opinions and their

party before sunset! I think most recruits joined the king’s party: his

serjeants had plenty of money, while Napoleon’s had none; and this was a

most tempting distinction—far better than any abstract consideration of

political benefit. Many of the recruits managed matters even better than

the priests, for they took the _king’s_ money in the morning, and the

_emperor’s_ cockade in the afternoon; so that they could not be accused

on either side of _unqualified_ partiality. The votaries of _le Désiré_

and _le Grand_ were indeed so jumbled and shuffled together, (like a

pack of cards when on the point of being dealt,) that nobody could

possibly decipher which had the best chance of succeeding.

The English alone cast a dark and gloomy shade over the gay scene that

surrounded them; their lengthened visages, sunken eyes, and hanging

features proclaiming their terror and despondency. Every one fancied he

should be incarcerated for life, if he could not escape before Napoleon

arrived at Paris, which seemed extremely problematical; and I really

think I never saw a set of men in better humour for suicide than my

fellow-countrymen, who stalked like ghosts along the pier and sea-side.

The British consul, Mr. Stuart, (a _littérateur_ and a gentleman, but

whose wine generally regulated his nerves, while his nerves governed his

understanding,) as good-natured a person as could possibly be about a

_couple of bottles_ after dinner, (for so he counted _time_,—a mode of

computation in which he certainly was as regular as clockwork,) called a

general meeting of all the British subjects in Havre, at his apartments;

and after each had taken a bumper of Madeira to “George the Third,” he

opened the business in as long and flowery an harangue, in English and

Latin, as the grape of Midi and its derivative distillations could

possibly dictate.

“My friends and countrymen,” said Mr. Stuart, “I have good _consular_

reasons for telling you all, that if Bonaparte gets into Paris, he will

order every mother’s babe of you, men, women, and children, _et cetera_,

into gaol for _ten_ or _twelve_ years at the least computation! and I

therefore advise you all, _magnus_, _major_, _maximus_, and _parvus_,

_minor_, _minimus_, to take yourselves off without any delay great or

small, and thereby _save your bacon_ while you have the power of doing

so. Don’t wait to take care of your property; _nulla bona_ is better

than _nulla libertas_. As for me, I am bound _ex-officio_ to _devote_

myself for my country! I will risk my life (and here he looked heroical)

to protect your property; I will remain behind!”

The conclusion of the consul’s speech was a signal for the simultaneous

uplifting of many voices.—“I’ll be off certainly!” exclaimed one

terrified gentleman.—“Every man for himself, God for us all: the _devil

take the hindmost_!” shouted another.—“Do you mean to affront me, Sir?”

demanded the worthy self-devoted consul, starting from his seat. A

regular uproar now ensued; but the thing was soon explained, and

tranquillity restored.

Two ships were next day hired, at an enormous price, to carry the

English out of the reach of Bonaparte. The wind blew a gale, but no

hurricane could be so terrific as Napoleon. Their property was a serious

consideration to my fellow-countrymen; however, there was no choice:

they therefore packed up all their small valuables, and relinquished the

residue to the protection of _Providence_ and the _consul_.

In a short time all was ready; and, as Mr. Stuart had advised, men,

women, children, and lap-dogs, all rushed to the quay; while, in

emulation of the orator at the consul’s, “the devil take the

_hindmost_,” if not universally expressed, was universally the principle

of action. Two children, in this most undignified sort of confusion,

fell into the sea, but were picked up. The struggling, screeching,

scrambling, &c. were at length completed; and in a shorter time than

might be supposed, the English population were duly shipped, and away

they went under a hard gale. Dr. Johnson calls a ship a prison with the

chance of being drowned in it; and as if to prove the correctness of the

doctor’s definition, before night was over one vessel was ashore, and

the whole of its company just on the point of increasing the

_population_ of the British Channel.

Havre de Grace being thus emptied of the king of England’s subjects, who

were “saving their bacon” at sea, in a violent hurricane, the consul

began to take care of their property: but there being a thing called

_loyer_, or _rent_, in France as well as in England, the _huissiers_

(bailiffs) of the town saved the consul a great deal of trouble

respecting his guardianship in divers instances. Nevertheless, so far as

he could, he most faithfully performed his promise to the fugitives, for

the reception of whose effects he rented a large storehouse, and so far

all was wisely, courteously, and carefully managed: but not exactly

recollecting that the parties did not possess the property as _tenants

in common_, the worthy consul omitted to have _distinct inventories_

taken of each person’s respective chattels, though, to avoid any risk of

favouritism, he had all jumbled together; and such an heterogeneous

medley was perhaps never seen elsewhere. Clothes, household furniture,

kitchen utensils, books, linen, empty bottles, musical instruments, &c.

strewed the floor of the storehouse in “most admired disorder.” All

being safely stowed, locks, bolts, and bars were elaborately

constructed, to exclude such as might feel a disposition to picking and

stealing; but, alas! the best intentions and the most cautious

provisions are sometimes frustrated by accident or oversight. In the

present instance, in his extraordinary anxiety to secure the door, Mr.

Stuart was perfectly heedless of the _roof_; and in consequence, the

intrusion of the rain, which often descended in torrents, effectually

saved most of the proprietors the trouble of identifying their goods

after the result of the glorious battle of Waterloo. Disputes also were

endless as to the right and title of various claimants to various

articles; and in the result, the _huissiers_ and the landlord of the

storehouse were once more intruders upon the protected property.

To return—Havre being completely evacuated by my countrymen, it now

became necessary to strike out some line of proceeding for myself and

family. Sir William Johnson, who was in the town, had participated in

the general alarm, and had set off with his household for the

Netherlands, advising me to do the same. I was afterward informed,

though falsely, that they all foundered in a dyke near Antwerp. In the

mean time, the transformation of things at Havre became complete, and

perfect order quickly succeeded the temporary agitation. The

tri-coloured flag was again hoisted at the port; and all the painters of

the town were busily employed in changing the royal signs into imperial

ones. One auberge, _Louis le Désiré_, was changed into a _blue boar_:

the _Duchesse d’Angoulême_ became _the Virgin Mary_: _royal_ was

new-gilt into _imperial_ once more at the lottery offices:

_fleurs-de-lis_ were metamorphosed, in a single day, into beautiful

_spread-eagles_: and the _Duc de Berry_, who had hung creaking so

peaceably on his post before the door of an hotel, became, in a few

hours, _St. Peter_ himself, with the keys of Heaven dangling from his

little finger!

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