CHAPTER XX.

SUPERSTITION.

Superstitious Character of the Dwellers in

Turkey—Olympus—Klephtic Legends—The Vrykolakas—Local Spirits—A

Vampire at Adrianople—Spirits of the Springs—Miraculous

Cures—Magic—Influence upon Bulgarians—An Historiette—Antidotes

for Spells—The _Meras Tas_—Universal Belief in Magic, and

the Consequences—_Buyu Boghchas_—The _Buyu Boghchas_ of

Abdul-Medjid and Aziz—Quack Astrologers—A Superstitious

Pasha—The Evil Eye—Remedies thereagainst—Spring

Bleeding—Vipers—Means of expelling Vermin—Remedial

Properties of Hebrew Beards—Dreams—Omens—Sultan Mahmoud’s

Omen—Predictions—The Bloody Khan: Buried Treasure.

There are few people so superstitious as the people of Turkey. All

nations have their traditions and fancies, and we find educated

Englishmen who dislike walking under a ladder on superstitious grounds;

but in Turkey every action, every ceremony, every relation, is hedged

round with fears and omens and forebodings. Whatever happens to you

is the work of supernatural agencies, and can only be remedied by the

_nostrums_ of some disreputable hag or some equally suspicious quack

diviner. If you lose anything, it is the evil eye of some kind friend

that has done it. If you look fixedly at anybody or anything, it is you

who are trying to cast the evil eye. In short, nothing happens in Turkey

unsupernaturally: there is always some spirit or magician or evil eye at

the bottom of it. And this belief is not confined to the Turks: Greeks,

Bulgarians, and even a good many Franks, are equally superstitious. Nor

is this superstition, like the many harmless customs still observed in

England, a mere luxury—an affectation: it is a matter of life and death.

Not a few young girls have died from the belief that they were bewitched,

or from some other superstitious shock; not a few homes have been made

miserable by the meddlesome prophecies of a suborned astrologist.

A great centre of superstition is Mount Olympus. Since the gods

deserted it the popular imagination has peopled it with spirits of

every denomination, and Klephtic legend has added to the host. The

Greek peasants have a superstitious horror of approaching the ruined

villages at the foot of the mountain; making the sign of the cross, they

take a circuitous by-path sooner than follow the deserted road that

would lead them past the desecrated church, the neglected graveyards,

the blackened ruins of the cottages, now believed to be haunted by

the restless spirits of dead Klephts, who roam about in the silence of

night, bemoaning their fate, and crying vengeance on the oppressors of

their race. It is only on the anniversary of the patron saint of this

deserted region that the surviving inhabitants of these once prosperous

hamlets, bringing their descendants and carrying the aged and infirm

as well as the youngest babes, set out on a pilgrimage to these spots

hallowed by unforgotten wrongs, to pray for the souls of the dead and

offer _mnemosyné_ to calm their restless spirits; and to inculcate in

their children the sacred duty of vengeance on the tyrants who inflicted

upon their ancestors those speechless injuries whose memory it is the

object of these pilgrimages to preserve fresh and vengeful. The Turks,

ever ready to accept their neighbors’ superstitions, dread these ruined

villages no less than the Greeks. Peopled, as he believes them, by Peris

and Edjinlis, no Turk will come near them, for fear of coming under some

malign influence.

The Klephtic legends are full of the most terrible of all ghosts, the

_Vrykolakas_, or vampire. Many popular songs tell of this fearful

spectre, who is the spirit of some traitor or other evil-doer who cannot

be at peace in his grave, but is ever haunting the scene of his crime.

One ghastly poem records the visit of a traitorous Klepht chieftain,

Thanásê Vagía, as a vampire, to his widow. This man had betrayed

his comrades to Ali Pasha, and their souls, heralded by the ghostly

Kukuvagia, or owl of ill-omen, come and drag him from his grave and hurry

him to Gardiki, where his deed of treachery was done. Suddenly they find

the soul of the tyrant Ali Pasha, and, forgotten in the rush, Thanásê

Vagía takes refuge with his widow. The dialogue between them is full

of dramatic power; the horror of the wife at the livid apparition that

seeks to embrace her, and the vampire’s terror in his miserable doom,

are vividly told. At last the spectre is driven away by the touch of the

cross, which he uncovers on his wife’s bosom. It is a striking poem, and

brings home to one the living reality of this horrible superstition to

the Greeks. As we have seen, they make periodical visits to the graves of

their dead to discover whether the soul is at peace. If the body is not

fully decomposed at the end of the year, they believe that their relation

has become a Vrykolakas, and use every means to lay the spirit.

But the Vrykolakas, though the most ghastly of spirits, is not alone.

There are invisible influences everywhere in Turkey. If the Vrykolakas

haunts the graveyards, old Konaks have their _edjinlis_, fountains their

_peris_, public baths their peculiar genii.

All these imaginary beings, whose existence is implicitly believed in,

are expected to be encountered by the persons upon whom they may choose

to cast their baneful or good influence. Their dreaded hostility is

combated by the Christians by religious faith, such as an earnest appeal

to Christ and the Virgin, by repeatedly crossing themselves in the name

of both, or by taking hold of any sacred amulet they may have on their

persons. These amulets consist of small portions of the “true cross”

enshrined in crosses of silver, a crucifix, or an image of the Virgin,

which, trustingly held and shown to the apparitions, have the effect

of rendering them impotent and causing them to vanish. The Turks have

recourse to the repetition of a certain form of prayer, and to their

_muskas_ or amulets, in which they place as much faith as the Christians

do in theirs.

In 1872 the whole town of Adrianople was put in commotion by the nightly

apparition of a spectre that showed itself at Kyik, a fine elevated

part of the town, inhabited both by Christians and Mussulmans. This

imaginary being, believed to be a Vrykolakas, was represented to me, by

eye-witnesses of both creeds, who swore they had seen it listening about

their houses in the twilight, as a long, slim, ugly-looking figure, with

a cadaverous bearded face, clad in a winding-sheet; one of those restless

spirits, in fact, who, not being allowed the privilege of peaceful

decomposition in their tombs, still haunt the homes of the living,

tapping at their doors, making strange noises, and casting their evil

influence upon them. This comedy lasted a fortnight, during which in vain

did the Mussulman _Hodjas_ and the Christian priests endeavor, by their

prayers and incantations, to free the people from their alarming visitor.

At last, it was rumored that the only human being possessing the power of

doing so was a Turkish _Djindji_, or sorcerer, famous for his power over

evil spirits, who lived in a town at some distance, but who could only be

prevailed upon to come by payment of seven _liras_ by the Kyik people. On

the arrival of this man at Adrianople the supposed spirit disappeared.

The belief of the inhabitants in the existence of the vampire was too

deeply rooted to allow me to ascertain who was the charlatan that had

benefited by this imposition on public credulity. I questioned a Greek

woman who had seen it. She crossed herself, and said she would rather

dispense with talking on the subject. On asking a Turk his opinion on

the apparition, he said, “It must have been the spirit of some corrupt

bribe-eating Kadi, forbidden the repose due to the remains of an honest

man, and come back to trouble us with his presence after he has lost the

power of fleecing us of our money!”

The spirits that have their abodes in mineral baths are specially courted

by the sick, who are taken to the establishments and left under the

beneficent care of these beings. The mineral bath of Kainadjah, near

Broussa, is a dark dungeon-like place, extremely old, and much famed in

the district for its healing powers. Its waters, strongly impregnated

with sulphur, are boiling hot, rendering the atmosphere of the bath

intolerable to any but the credulous, who, I suppose, support it, by

virtue of the faith they place in the good to be derived from the trial.

A crippled Turkish woman was taken to this bath at nightfall, with a

written petition in her hand to the genii, and, according to the usual

routine, was left alone in utter darkness in the inner bath till morning.

The spirits of the place, if well disposed towards her and pleased with

the sacrifice promised to them, would be expected to come in the course

of the night and attend upon her. A copper bowl, left by the side of the

patient, and knocked against the marble slabs in case assistance was

required, was the only means of communication between the patient and her

friends waiting outside.

This woman, for many years deprived of the use of her legs, had been

brought from a distant part of the country. I had a chat with her before

she underwent the treatment. She appeared fully sensible of the dangers

it presented, but at the same time confident in the benefits expected to

be derived, which the bath-women represented to her as being unfailing,

owing to the supernatural aid the spirits would be sure to accord her.

This cure, of a nature so exhausting to the system, and so telling upon

the imagination, requires a great amount of moral courage and no small

degree of physical strength to carry out.

This subject was one of deep interest to me, and my first care next

morning was to visit the patient, and see what the waters, not the

_Peris_, had done for her. I found her sitting in the outer chamber of

the bath, looking very tired and exhausted; but, as I approached, her

face lighted with smiles, and she actually stretched out her feet and

attempted to stand upon them. I could scarcely believe my eyesight or

conceal my surprise at this sudden change in her condition. Her friends

cried out in chorus, “Spit upon her, and say _Mashallah_!” while the

bath-women ceased not to sound the praises and boast of the power

and good-will of the _Peris_ of their establishment who had wrought

this wonderful cure, leaving all the time no doubt in my mind that the

beneficent spirits were no other than the _Hammamjis_ themselves.

The following is the account the patient gave of what she underwent when

left alone in her vapory dungeon:

“At first I felt a suffocating sensation, then by degrees a weakness

crept over me, my eyes closed, and I fainted away. I do not know how long

I remained in that condition, but on recovering consciousness I felt

myself handled by invisible beings, who silently pulled and rubbed my

afflicted limbs. My terror at this stage was as great as my helplessness

to combat it. I began to tremble and wished to call for help; when on the

point of doing so, I suddenly found myself under the reviving influence

of a pail of cold water suddenly thrown over me. The shock, together

with my terror, was so great that I actually made a supreme effort to

stand upon my feet, when, to my awe and astonishment, I discovered that

I had the power of doing so; I even took a few steps forwards, but in

the darkness I could proceed no further, and, finding my voice, began to

call for help with all my might. The gentle bang of the door for a moment

made me hope that my friends were within reach; but no! it was only the

spirits, who, unwilling to be seen by mortal eyes, were taking their

departure. Their exit was followed by the arrival of my friends, who,

alarmed by my screams, were rushing to my aid. I was taken out by the

advice of the good _Hammamji Hanoum_ (bath mistress), and left to repose

in the outer chamber till morning. I have already ordered the sacrifice

of the sheep I promised to the spirits, should they relieve me of the

infliction that has crippled me so many years, and am willing to submit

to the same ordeal twice more, according to the recommendation of the

_Hammamji Hanoum_, in order to afford the _Peris_ the full time needed

for the accomplishment of their task.”

Cases of a similar nature have often been the theme of wonder among

those who frequented the baths of Broussa, whose efficacious waters used

annually, and employed by civilized patients who resort to them from all

parts of the Empire, are found salutary enough without the services of

the _Peris_.

Magic plays a great part in Turkish affairs. Christians and Moslems,

Greeks and Bulgarians, Turks and Albanians, implicitly believe in the

power possessed by evil-minded persons of casting spells upon their

enemies or rivals, and extraordinary means are resorted to with a view to

removing the baneful influence. Among my Uskup reminiscences, which are

none of the most pleasant, I remember one particularly interesting case,

which not only illustrates the general belief of an ignorant population

in the power of spells, but also presents a fair picture of the way the

peasants are treated by their masters. This instance of the rape of a

Bulgarian girl by a brigand chief is no isolated case. Such things are

the daily occupation of Turks in authority and of Albanian chiefs who

have forgotten their national traditions and have condescended to ape

Turkish manners.

The heroine of my story was a young Bulgarian girl belonging to the town

of Uskup. She was a strong healthy maiden, but not the less beautiful:—a

brunette, with bright black eyes full of expression, a small, well-shaped

mouth, fine teeth, a forehead rather low, but broad and determined,

and a nose in which high spirit and character were strongly marked.

Her oval face would have been perfect but for the slight prominence of

the cheek-bones. Her jet-black hair fell in a number of braids on her

well-shaped shoulders, in fine contrast to the rich embroidery of her

_Sutna_. On working days she was seen laboring in the fields with her

brothers, where her cheerful voice would enliven the monotonous sound of

the spade; while on feast-days she was ever the first to reach the common

and lead the _Hora_ to the sound of the _Gaida_. Her natural gayety made

her welcome everywhere; she was called “The Lark” by her friends, and was

the life and soul of every gathering. She had the happy assured look of

the girl who loves well and is loved well again.

One feast-day, riding by the common, I reined in my horse, and stopped

to admire this pretty creature by the side of her handsome and

intelligent-looking lover, gracefully leading the dance. They both looked

pleased and happy, as though their earthly Paradise had as yet known

no shadow. But the sun that set so brightly on the festivities of the

day was darkened on the morrow. The poor girl was going at dawn to the

harvest field, with her bright sickle in her hand, when she was waylaid

by a band of Albanian ruffians, who suddenly appeared from behind a

hedge where they had been concealed, and tried to seize and carry her

off. The danger was sudden, but the stout-hearted girl lost neither

courage nor presence of mind; holding her sickle, she stood her ground,

bravely defended herself and kept her ravishers at bay. The Albanians,

who make it a point of honor not to strike a woman, changed their plan,

and pointing their guns at her brothers, who stood helpless by her side,

shouted, “Yield, Bulka, or both your brothers are dead!” A look of

despair flashed for a moment across her face; then folding her arms she

declared her readiness to follow her persecutors, saying, “You have power

over my person, take it, and do your worst; but what is within here”

(pointing to her head and heart) “none shall have save the Great Bogha

and my Tashko.”

Mehemet Bey, a brigand chief, was the instigator of the abduction.

Assisted by two subordinates, he placed her behind him on his horse and

galloped off across the plain of the Vardar to his village. The brothers,

dismayed by the misfortune that had so unexpectedly befallen their

sister, ran back to the town and gave notice to the venerable bishop,

who at once proceeded to the Konak and acquainted the Kaimakam with

the details, and demanded that the girl should be reclaimed and given

up to him. The salutary custom then practised in cases of both willing

and compulsory conversion was that the neophytes should be placed under

the keeping of the bishop in the _Metropolis_, where they were allowed

to remain three days, enjoying the benefits of religious advice and

the good influence of their friends. This excellent custom, since done

away, had the best results. The prevailing custom, which has superseded

this, is to send the neophyte to the house of the Kadi or governor

of the town, where a very different influence, seldom of a salutary

nature, is exerted during three days, when the presumed convert, often

yielding to erroneous arguments and false promises, is led before the

Court to declare his or her adoption of the Moslem faith. This pressure

was brought to bear upon Rayna, our heroine, and she was treated by the

Albanian chief and his friends by turns to threats of vengeance and

every kind of flattery and glittering promise. But the brave girl was

deaf to both, and by the instrumentality of the Kaimakam the captive was

finally brought to the Metropolis, where she strongly protested against

the calumnious accusations brought against her by her enemies of having

tacitly consented to her abduction, and demanded to be led before the

Court without delay to make her final declaration.

Her captivity had naturally been a terrible blow to her betrothed, and

the joy of her release was sadly darkened by horrible suspicions of the

dishonor to which she might have been subjected. The young man accepted

all the same his chosen bride, whom he had so narrowly escaped losing,

and the wedding-day was fixed.

The bridegroom’s home was so situated, that from the windows of my room

I could see into it. The family consisted of an aged Bulgarian woman

and her son, a furrier by trade. A week before the ceremony took place,

the old lady might be seen working away at the preparations for the

coming event. The house was thoroughly cleaned and whitewashed; the

copper pots, pans, and dishes, and the china and glass, indispensable

decorations of the shelves that adorn the walls of every well-to-do

Bulgarian tradesman’s house, were in their turn brought down, made bright

and shining, and then returned to their places. All the carpets were then

produced, in extraordinary quantity, and of all colors, dimensions, and

qualities. These were stretched on mattresses, sofas, on the floors of

the rooms and on the veranda. The cellar was next visited, and no small

quantity of its fluid contents brought forth. Uskup is the only town

in Turkey in which I have noticed a tendency on the part of the female

population to indulge in drink; they do not, however, practise this vice

in public, nor is an inebriated woman ever seen in the country. Finally

the provisions, consisting of an abundant supply of flour, rice, butter,

honey, and fruits were collected, and all seemed in readiness. The future

bridegroom, however, who appeared ill and dispirited, took no very active

part in the arrangements, and I frequently observed him sitting on the

veranda silent and dull, smoking cigarette after cigarette; his mother

occasionally whisking round and reprimanding him in strong Bulgarian

language, to which he would sometimes respond by a few words and at

others would heave a deep sigh and leave the house.

I went to see the bride on the day she was brought to her new home. She

looked very pretty in her bright bridal costume, but her fine eyes had

lost something of their lustre and her cheeks much of their wonted bloom.

She looked serious and concerned; her husband, dull and dispirited. As

they stood up to make the first formal round of the dance, I noticed the

difference in their step, formerly so light, now heavy and sorrowful.

As they turned round, slowly measuring their steps to the music of the

_gaida_, not a smile parted their lips, not a cheerful word was heard

from the rest of the company. The poor bride noticed this, and a few

tears dropped from her eyes; but her cup of sorrow was not yet full. A

suspicious-looking woman, famous for her deep knowledge of witchcraft,

entered; taking aside the bridegroom, she whispered something in his ear

which seemed to impress him deeply. This bird of ill omen left behind

her a chill which all seemed to feel. When the week’s feasting was at an

end, the gossips began to chat over the event, all agreeing that a duller

wedding had never taken place in their town, and prophesying all sorts of

misfortunes to the young couple. I frequently saw them from my windows,

and noticed that they did indeed seem far from happy. The husband looked

morose, was seldom at home, and during those intervals was always in bad

humor and disputing with his mother, and quarrelling with his wife, who

was oftener crying than laughing.

The gossiping tongues of the neighbors were once more loosed, and the

report was spread that the bridegroom was laboring under the influence

of a magical spell cast upon him by his disappointed rival, the Albanian

chieftain, and that he was consequently _zaverza_. This spell cast

upon men is, among other devices, operated by means of the locking of

a padlock by a sorcerer, who casts the lock into one well and the key

into another. This is supposed actually to lock up every feeling and

faculty of the individual against whom it is directed, and to render him

insensible to the impressions of love. This spell, implicitly believed

in and much feared by all the ignorant people of the country, requires

the assistance of a professional to remove its malignant effects. The

unhappy couple, after many miserable months, resolved to have recourse

to the sorceress before mentioned, and after the husband had undergone

the remedies prescribed by her everything went well, and my heroine once

again became happy. Such is the force of imagination.

The antidotes employed in these cases consist of quicksilver and other

minerals, placed with water in a basin, called the _Meras Tas_, or

Heritage-Bowl, a very rare vessel, highly prized for its virtues, and

engraved with forty-one padlocks. The water is poured from this bowl

over the head of the afflicted person during the seven weeks following

Easter. At Monastir, this ablutionary performance is held in a ruined

mill called Egri Deirmen, where every Thursday during this period may be

seen a heterogeneous gathering of Turks, Jews, Bulgarians, Wallachians,

Albanians, and Greeks, young and old, male and female, who resort to the

spot, and for the modest payment of a copper coin receive the benefits

of an anti-magical wash. Every one who has been to the place will attest

the beneficial effect of this rite, and so deeply rooted is the belief in

the influence of magic in the minds of these people that even those who

may have wished to free themselves from what they almost admit to be a

superstition, say that they are led back by the incontrovertible evidence

they see of its effects on the persons against whom it is employed.

Most of the spells cast upon persons are aimed at life, beauty, wealth,

and the affections. They are much dreaded, and the events connected with

this subject that daily occur are often of a fatal character. A Turkish

lady, however high her position, invariably attributes to the influence

of magic the neglect she experiences from her husband, or the bestowal

of his favor on other wives. Every Hanoum I have known would go down to

the laundry regularly and rinse with her own hands her husband’s clothes

after the wash, fearing that if any of her slaves performed this duty she

would have the power of casting spells to supplant her in her husband’s

good graces. Worried and tormented by these fears, she is never allowed

the comfort of enjoying in peace that conjugal happiness which mutual

confidence alone can give. A _buyu boghcha_ (or magic bundle) may at any

time be cast upon her, cooling her affection for her husband, or turning

his love away from her. The blow may come from an envious mother-in-law,

a scheming rival, or from the very slaves of whose services the couple

stand daily in need. A relative of Sultan Abdul-Medjid assured me that

on the death of that gentle and harmless Padishah no fewer than fifty

_buyu boghchas_ were found hidden in the recesses of his sofa. All these

were cast upon the unfortunate sovereign by the beauties who, appreciated

for a short time and then superseded by fresh favorites, tried each to

perpetuate her dominion over him.

During a conversation I recently had with a Turkish lady of high

position, who had spent seventeen years of her life in the seraglio of

Sultan Abdul-Aziz, I happened to refer to the eccentricities occasionally

displayed by that Sultan. She looked reproachfully at me and exclaimed,

“How can you accuse the memory of our saintly master of eccentricity

when every one knows it was the effect of magic?” and, adding action to

her words, she began to enumerate on the tips of her fingers all the

persons who had a special interest in having recourse to this practice

in order to bewilder the mind of the Sultan. “The first schemer,” said

she, “is the Validé Sultana, desirous of perpetuating her influence over

the mind of her son. The next is the Grand Vizir, in the hope of further

ingratiating himself with his master. Then comes the Kislar Aga, chief

of the eunuchs, with a host of women, all disputing with each other the

affection of the Sultan. If ten out of twelve of these fail in their

attempt the machinations of two will be sure to succeed, and these two

suffice to bewilder the mind of any man. When our lamented master was

driven out of his palace, and the furniture removed from his chamber,

_buyu boghchas_ were found even under the mats on the floor. These, taken

up by some good women that still venerated his memory, were thrown into

the sea or consumed by fire.”

The _buyu boghcha_ is composed of a number of incongruous objects, such

as human bones, hair, charcoal, earth, besides a portion of the intended

victim’s garment, etc., tied up in a rag. When it is aimed at the life

of a person, it is supposed to represent his heart, and is studded with

forty-one needles, intended to act in a direct manner and finally cause

his death. Two of these bundles, of a less destructive nature, were

thrown into my house; on another occasion two hedgehogs, also considered

instruments of magic and forerunners of evil, were cast in. All these

dreaded machinations had, however, no other effect on me beyond exciting

my curiosity to know their perpetrator; but they occasioned great fear to

my native servants, who were continually expecting some fatal calamity to

happen in consequence.

The advice of magicians, fortune-tellers, dream-expounders, and quack

astrologers is always consulted by persons desirous of being enlightened

upon any subject. Stolen property is believed to be recoverable through

their instrumentality, and the same faith is placed in them as a European

victim of some wrong would put in the intelligence and experience of

a clever detective. Some of these individuals are extremely acute in

arriving at the right solution of the mystery. Their power, dreaded by

the suspected parties as sure to result in some unforeseen calamity,

is a moral pressure which, when set to work upon the superstitious,

succeeds beyond expectation. The following is an example of the hold

that superstition has over the minds of the most enlightened Turks. A

Pasha, who had been ambassador at Paris, and whose wit, liberal ideas,

and pleasant manners were highly appreciated in European circles, was

appointed in his more mature years Governor-General of Broussa during the

reign of Abdul-Medjid. During his travels he had collected a splendid

library, the finest ornament of his house. These books gave umbrage to

an old sheikh, who possessed unlimited influence over the Pasha. The

old fanatic had mentally vowed the destruction of these writings of the

infidel, and by means of his eloquence and by prophetic promises he so

worked upon the governor’s superstitious feelings as to induce him to

sacrifice his library, which was brought down into the court-yard and

made into a bonfire. The recompense for this act of abnegation, according

to the sheikh, was to be the possession of the much-coveted post of Grand

Vizir. Strange to say, a short time afterwards the Pasha was called

to occupy that position; but its glory and advantages were enjoyed by

him for the short period of three days only—a poor recompense for his

sacrifice.

Belief in the evil eye is perhaps more deeply rooted in the mind of the

Turk than in that of any other nation, though Christians, Jews, and

even some Franks regard it as a real misfortune. It is supposed to be

cast by some envious or malicious person, and sickness, death, and loss

of beauty, affection, and wealth are ascribed to it. Often when paying

visits of condolence to Turkish harems, I have heard them attribute

the loss they have sustained to the _Nazar_. I knew a beautiful girl,

who was entirely blinded and disfigured by small-pox, attribute her

misfortune to one of her rivals, who, envying in her the charms she did

not herself possess, used to look at her with the peculiar _fena guz_

(bad expression) so much dreaded by Turkish women. When the misfortune

happened, the ignorant mother, instead of reproaching herself for her

neglect in not having had her daughter vaccinated, lamented her want of

foresight in having omitted to supply her with the charms and amulets

that would have averted the calamity.

A lady who had lost a beautiful and valuable ring that had attracted

the attention of an envious acquaintance, when relating to me the

circumstance with great pathos, attributed her loss solely to the evil

eye cast upon it by her friend.

I knew a lady at Broussa whose eye was so dreaded as to induce her

friends to fumigate their houses after she had paid them a visit. She

happened to call upon my mother one evening when we were sitting under a

splendid weeping willow-tree in the garden. She looked up and observed

that she had never seen a finer tree of its kind. My old nurse standing

by heard her observation, and no sooner had our visitor departed than she

suggested that some garlic should at once be hung upon it or it would

surely come to grief. We all naturally ridiculed the idea, but, as chance

would have it, that very night a storm uprooted the willow. After this

catastrophe the old woman took to hanging garlic everywhere, and would

have ornamented me with it had I not rebelled.

At Uskup the finest horse in the town was my Arab, which was said to

excite the admiration and envy of the Albanians, whose love for fine

horses is well known. Often after having been out he was pronounced

_Nazarlu_ by our faithful kavass and the groom, and was at once taken to

a sheikh of great repute in the town, who read prayers over it, pulled

its ears, and after breaking an egg on its forehead, sent it back with

every assurance that it was _Savmash_ (cured). Finding that my pet was

none the worse for this strange treatment (for which I was never allowed

to pay by my excellent friend the old sheikh), and seeing that it

afforded gratification to my people, I allowed them to take it as often

as they liked.

Visiting one day the nursery of a friend, we found the baby, six months

old, divested of its clothing and stretched on a square of red cloth,

while the old Greek nurse, much concerned about the ailing condition of

her charge, which she attributed to the effects of the evil eye, was

presiding over the following operation performed by an old hag of the

same nation in order to free the infant from the supposed influence.

Little heaps of hemp, occupying the four corners of the cloth, were

smoking like miniature altars; their fumes, mingling with the breathings

and incantations of the old enchantress, offered a strange contrast to

the repeated signs of the cross made by her on the baby’s body, ending in

a series of gymnastic contortions of its limbs. The child soon recovered

his wonted liveliness, and seemed to enjoy the process, crowing and

smiling all the time.

Should you happen to fix your gaze on a person or object in the presence

of ill-disposed Turks, you are liable to receive rude remarks from them

under the idea that you are casting the evil eye. Some months ago two

Turkish boys, belonging to one of the principal families of the town of

R⸺, attracted the attention of some Christian children who stood by, and

who were forthwith violently assaulted by the servants of the little

boys, who called out, “You little giaours! how dare you look in this

manner at our young masters and give them the evil eye?” The cries of the

children brought some shopkeepers to the spot, who with some difficulty

rescued them from this unprovoked attack.

The preservatives employed against the power of this evil are as numerous

as the means used to dissipate its effects. The principal preventives

and antidotes are garlic, cheriot, wild thyme, boar’s tusks, hares’

heads, terebinth, alum, blue glass, turquoise, pearls, the bloodstone,

carnelian, eggs (principally those of the ostrich), a gland extracted

from the neck of the ass, written amulets, and a thousand other objects.

The upper classes of the Christians try to avert its effect by sprinkling

the afflicted persons with holy water, fumigating them with the burning

branches of the palms used on Palm Sunday, and by hanging amulets round

their necks: as preservatives, coral, blue glass ornaments, and crosses

are worn. The common people of all denominations resort to other means in

addition to these. The Bulgarians, for instance, take six grains of salt,

place them on each eye of the afflicted person, and then cast them into

the fire with a malediction against the person supposed to have caused

the evil. They also take three pieces of burning charcoal, place them in

a green dish, and making the sign of the cross pour water over them. Part

of this liquid is drunk by the victim, who also washes his face and hands

in it and then throws the remainder on the ground outside the house.

On the last day of February (old style), they take the heads of forty

small fish, and string and hang them up to dry. When a child is found

ailing from the supposed effects of the evil eye, the heads are soaked

in water, and the horrible liquid given to it to drink. It is considered

a good test of the presence of the evil eye to place cloves on burning

coals and carry them round the room. Should many of these explode, some

malicious person is supposed to have left the mischievous effects of the

_Nazar_ behind him.

Blue or gray eyes are more dreaded than dark ones, and red-haired

persons are particularly suspected. Great circumspection is observed in

expressing approbation, admiration or praise, of anything or anybody, as

all Orientals live in a continual state of dread of the effects of the

_fena guz_.

Besides the belief in spirits, magic, and other supernatural powers,

public credulity in the East is apt to accept as facts a variety of

matters not less absurd and often more injurious. In spring, for

instance, a popular idea prevails that blood in some manner or other

must be drawn from the body in order to cool the system and render

it healthy for the summer. Part of the population will appeal to the

barber, part to professed phlebotomists, others to the application of

leeches. Superstition requires that vipers should be medicinally used in

spring; the gypsies undertake to collect these and sell them alive to

the inhabitants of towns. I remember seeing one of these reptile-hunters

carry a bagful of them on his back against a sheepskin-coat. A passer-by

being attracted by their movements, visible through the bag, took hold of

it, but no sooner had he done so than he paid dearly for his curiosity

by being severely bitten by one of them. Freshly killed animals, such as

frogs, birds, etc., are often applied to suffering members of the body.

Croup is cured by amulets procured from the Hodjas and hung round the

neck of the child. Turkish women have often assured me that this remedy

is never known to fail, and consequently they resort to no other.

Square pieces of paper, bearing written inscriptions, are given for a

few piastres by learned Hodjas to persons whose dwellings are infested

with vermin. These are nailed on the four walls of an apartment, and

are believed to have the power of clearing it of its obnoxious tenants.

Going into the room of one of my servants one day at Adrianople, I

found a cucumber-boat occupying each corner. On inquiring why they were

placed there, an old servant answered that, being inconvenienced by the

too plentiful visitation of vermin, she had appealed to a person at

Kyik, whose magical influence, conveyed in cucumbers, was stated to be

infallible in driving the creatures away. I tried to analyze the contents

of these receptacles, but finding them a mess composed of charcoal,

bones, bits of written paper, hair, etc., I soon desisted, hoping that

it would prove more efficacious than it promised.

The Bulgarian remedy for this pest, although simpler in form, can hardly

be more effective. It consists of a few of these insects being caught on

the 1st of March, inclosed in a reed, and taken to the butcher, their

credentials being couched in the following terms: “Here is flesh, here is

blood for you to deal with; take them away and give us something better

in exchange.”

Another means of getting rid of serpents, venomous insects, and vermin,

is made use of by the Bulgarians on the last day of February; it consists

in beating copper pans all over the houses, calling out at the same time,

“Out with you, serpents, scorpions, fleas, bugs, and flies!” A pan held

by a pair of tongs is put outside in the court-yard.

Mohammedans execrate the Christian faith, and Christians the Mohammedan

faith, but both in cases of incurable diseases have recourse reciprocally

to each other’s Ἁγιάσματα (holy wells), the sacred tombs of the saints,

and to the prayers of the clergy of both creeds. I have often seen

sick Turkish children taken to the Armenian church at Broussa, and

heard prayers read over them by Armenian priests. I have also seen

Christian children taken to Hodjas to be blown and spat upon, or have

the visitation of intermittent fever tied up by means of a piece of

cotton-thread twisted round the wrist.

I happened one day to be making some purchases from a Jew pedler at the

gate, when a Turkish woman passing by came quietly up to the old man, and

before he could prevent her, made a snatch at his beard and pulled out

a handful. The unfortunate Hebrew, smarting under the pain and insult,

asked the reason for her cruelty. “Oh,” she answered, “I did not intend

to insult or hurt you; but my daughter has had fever for a long time, and

as all remedies that I have tried have proved vain, I was assured that

some hairs snatched from the beard of an Israelite and used to fumigate

her with would be sure to cure her.” She then tied up her stolen treasure

in her handkerchief and walked away with it.

Dreams play a great part in Eastern life. The young girl, early taught

to believe in them, hopes to perceive in these transient visions a

glimpse of the realities that are awaiting her; the married woman seeks,

in their shadowy illusions, the promise of the continuation of the

poetry of life, and firmly believes in the coming realities they are

supposed to foreshadow; while the ambitious man tries to expound them

in favor of his hopes and prospects, often guiding his actions by some

indistinct suggestion they convey to his mind. When a Greek woman has

had a remarkable dream, she will consult her Ὄνειρο, or book of dreams,

the Bulgarian will gossip over it with her neighbors, often accepting

their interpretation, and the Turkish woman will do the same, but if

not satisfied with the explanations given, she has the alternative of

consulting the Hodja, who will find a better meaning in his “learned

books.”

A projected contract of marriage is often arrested by the unfavorable

interpretation of a dream, or a marriage that had not previously been

imagined is entered into under the same influence. The vocations of a man

may be changed by a dream, and the destinies of a family trusted to its

guidance. Dreams are often used as a medium of discovering truth, and are

efficacious instruments in the hands of those who know how to use them.

A Turkish servant was suspected by one of my friends of having stolen a

sum of money which she missed from her safe. The lady called in the woman

and said to her, “Nasibeh, I dreamed last night that while I was out the

other day you walked into my room and took the money that was there.” The

culprit, taken by surprise, exclaimed, with too much earnestness, “I

did not take it!” My friend responded, “I have not accused you of having

taken it, but since you deny it so earnestly you are open to suspicion.

If the money is not there you must have taken it.” After a little

pressure the woman confessed that, tempted by the _Sheytan_, she had

done so, but that she would give it back, promising to be honest for the

future. She was retained in her situation, and, be it said to her credit,

was never again found guilty.

The most trivial circumstances connected with the birth of a child are

considered of good or bad omen according to the interpretation given

to them. Trifling accidents happening on a wedding-day have also their

signification; so have the breaking of a looking-glass, the accidental

spilling of oil, sweeping the house after the master has left it to go

on a journey, the meeting of a funeral or of a priest, a hare crossing

the path, and a thousand other every-day occurrences. The Turks, after

cutting their nails, will never throw away the parings, but carefully

keep them in cracks of the walls or the boards, where they are not likely

to be scattered about. This is based on the idea that at the resurrection

day they will be needed for the formation of new ones.

Sultan Mahmoud, the grandfather of the present Sultan, was in his bath

when the news of the birth of his son Abdul-Aziz was announced to him.

The tidings are said to have made him look sad and thoughtful; he heaved

a deep sigh, and expressed his regret at having been informed of the

event when divested of his clothing, saying it was a bad omen, and his

son was likely to leave his people as naked as the news of his birth had

found his father. Unfortunately for the nation, this prediction was but

too exactly realized.

Predictions have great influence over the Mohammedan mind. On the eve

of great battles, or on the occasion of any great political change,

prophecies are consulted and astrologers appealed to, to prognosticate

the issue of the coming event. Many of these individuals have paid with

their heads for the non-fulfilment of their prophecies.

The last prediction in circulation at Stamboul, uttered since the death

of Sultan Abdul-Aziz, says that seven sultans must succeed each other,

most of them dying violent deaths, before the Empire will be secure.

While living at a farm near Broussa, situated a few miles from the

town, not far from the ruins of a fine old hostelry called the “Bloody

Khan,” my mother was one moonlight night accosted by an old Turk while

we were out walking. He was a stranger in the place, tall and handsome,

with a snowy beard falling upon his slightly bent chest. A peculiar,

restless look about the eyes, and the numerous scars that covered his

bare breast and face were evident indications that whatever his present

calling might be, his past life must have been a stormy and adventurous

one. He walked quietly towards us, and stopping before my mother, with

a certain amount of respect mingled with paternal familiarity, said to

her, “_Kuzim, gel!_ (Daughter, come!) I have a secret to reveal to you.”

My mother followed him, and half amused and wholly incredulous listened

to the following recital. Pointing to the “Bloody Khan,” which, being

situated upon the principal road leading into the interior, had once

been occupied by a band of forty robbers, he said, “I was the chief of

the band of brigands that occupied that Khan. You must know its story.

Forty years have passed during which my faithful followers have been

caught, killed, or dispersed, leaving me the sole representative of the

band. A timely repentance of my evil ways led me to make a _Tubé_ vow

and renounce the old trade. I have since lived in peace with Allah and

with men. I have sworn to lay violent hands on no man’s property more;

but my conscience does not rebel against attempting to recover what I

had buried beneath yonder wall. I want your powerful concurrence to dig

out this buried treasure, the greater part of which will be yours.” My

mother naturally refused to have anything to do with the affair. Seeing

her unwillingness, the old man tried all his powers of persuasion to

induce her to take part in his plan, saying, “On me, my daughter, be the

sin. I will rest content with a small portion of what will be recovered,

all the rest I abandon to you!” Finding this last inducement had no more

effect than his previous promises, he turned away, saying, “Since you

refuse I must seek somebody else.” Among the few Mohammedan inhabitants

of the small village his choice fell upon the _Imam_, whose enterprising

face promised the old man better success. The cunning Imam, on hearing

the brigand’s tale, being persuaded of its veracity, at once promised his

assistance, mentally deciding, however, that he would be the only one to

profit by the hidden treasure. He at once began to make use of the usual

stratagem of superstition, which could alone secure the success of his

plan. Telling the old man that according to his books ill-gained wealth

must be in the possession of evil spirits, and that in order to guard

themselves against their influences during their digging enterprise, and

to prevent the treasure from turning into charcoal, a peculiar process of

appeasing and soothing incantations would be needed; but that he would at

once proceed to perform these, and at the first crowing of the cock all

would be ready, and they would proceed together to the spot and unearth

the treasure. The credulous old chief stroked his beard, and said that

with Allah’s help and the good-will of the _Peris_ by the next day they

would be rich men. In the course of the night, as arranged, the two,

spade in hand, leading the Imam’s horse bearing saddle bags, proceeded

to the spot. The Imam commenced operations by surrounding himself and

his companion with as many magical observances as he could invent.

Telling him to remove the first spadeful of earth, they went on digging

alternately until a hollow sound told the sharp ear of the Imam that the

distance between them and the coveted wealth was not great. He threw down

his spade, and again resorting to magical mummeries declared that the

danger was imminent, as the spell foretold resistance on the part of the

spirits, and a refusal to yield possession unless a goat were at once

sacrificed to them. “Go,” said he, earnestly, “back to the mosque, and

in the small chamber you will find three goats; take the milk-white one

and bring it here. Do not hurry it much, but lead it gently, as becomes

the virtue of the offering.” The old man, nothing doubting, with Turkish

nonchalance went quietly back to the village, which lay about three miles

distant. The Imam once rid of him, and when in no danger of being seen

or heard, set actively to work, got out the treasure, placed it in his

saddle-bags, mounted, and rode off, and was never seen or heard of in

the village again. The old man returned in due time, accompanied by the

goat, to find nothing but his spades, the pile of earth, and the gaping

hole. Disgusted, disappointed, and enraged, he came back to the village,

and early next morning made his appearance at the farm. Inquiring for my

mother, he acquainted her with the pitiable results of his attempt. This

time the curiosity of the whole family was roused, and we all proceeded

in a body to the spot. The old man’s assertions proved to be perfectly

correct, and my brother, upsetting part of the upturned earth, discovered

a handsome silver dish and cup, which we took home with us as trophies of

the strange adventure.

The following strange incident happened at Broussa when I was a child.

Incredible as it may appear, its authenticity cannot be disputed, and a

statement of the fact may be found in the Consular Reports made at the

time to the Foreign Office:

The monotonous life of the inhabitants of this romantic old city, which

a French _improvisateur_ justly designated as _un tombeau couvert de

roses_, was one morning startled by the arrival of a band of fifty or

sixty wild-looking people—men, women, and a few children. None knew

whence they came or what they wanted. Some of them, dressed as Fakirs,

spoke bad Turkish; the rest used a guttural dialect unintelligible to

any but themselves. Their costume, composed of a sheet or wrapper, left

their arms, legs, and tattooed breasts bare; white turbans, from under

which a quantity of matted hair hung, covered the heads of the men. The

women, whose arms and breasts were bare, wore brass and bead ornaments,

large rings in their ears, and a sheet over their heads. They were fine,

strongly-built people, with regular features and bronzed skins. This

nomad band, which was conjectured to have come from some distant part

of Central Asia, took up its quarters at Bournabashi, a beautiful spot

outside the walls of the town, where a grove of cypress trees shelter

a fine mausoleum containing the saintly remains of one of the first

chieftains who accompanied Sultan Orkhan and settled in the city after

the conquest. His shrine, much venerated by the Mohammedans, is a resort

for pilgrims, who may often be seen performing their ablutions at the

cool fountains by the side of the vale, or devoutly bending to say their

_namaz_ under the shade of the imposing trees, having lighted tapers on

the tomb.

It must have been some mysterious legend connected with the life and

deeds of this reputed saint, mixed up, as most Oriental legends are, with

the supernatural, that, finding its way back to his native land, and

discovered or expounded centuries later by his savage kindred, led them

to undertake this long journey and do homage at the tomb of the Emir.

Their actions seem, however, to have been prompted partly by interested

motives, for their legend seems mysteriously to have stated that great

riches had been buried with him, whose possession was only attainable by

human sacrifice. The easy consciences of the fanatics do not appear to

have felt any scruples with regard to the means they were to use, and in

their zeal, stimulated by their greed for gain and by superstition, they

undertook the long journey that, after perhaps months of hardship and

toil, led them to their goal.

The day after their arrival they were seen in twos and threes scouring

the town, crossing and recrossing all its streets under the pretext

of begging, but, as subsequently discovered, with the real object of

kidnapping children. According to their confession, forty was the number

needed, whose fat boiled down was to be moulded into tapers, which,

burning day and night on the tomb of the Emir, were to soften the spirits

into complaisance and induce them to give up the treasure they guarded

in its original state, and not in charcoal, as would be the case if

this all-important part of the operation were omitted by the searchers.

The news of the appearance of the kidnappers, with some inkling of

their object, soon spread through the town and began to terrorize the

inhabitants of the Christian quarters, where they were principally seen

loitering, when palpable evidence of their operations was brought before

the English Consul by the timely rescue of two Armenian children, who

had been half strangled, one being brought in insensible and the other

having on its throat the deep and bleeding nail-marks of the two ruffians

from whose hands the children had been rescued by some passers-by, who

interrupted the murderous work as it was being executed in the sombre

archway of a ruined old Roman bridge crossing the ravine that intersects

the town. The Consul at once proceeded to the Governor and requested

that the case should at once be looked into. But the sacred character of

Fakir protecting some of these men made public investigation difficult,

and the authorities hushed up the matter, and only signified to the band

that they must renounce their project and leave the country. They did so,

expressing their deep regret at the want of faith of the authorities, and

bitterly reproaching them with their refusal to co-operate tacitly with

their desire.

Twenty Years' Residence among the People of Turkey: Bulgarians, Greeks, Albanians, Turks, and Armenians · 第 20 / 23 章