CHAPTER VIII.

PEASANT HOLDINGS.

Small Proprietors _South of the Balkans_—Flourishing

State of the Country a few Years ago—A Rose-Harvest at

Kezanlik—Bulgarian Villages—Oppressive and Corrupt System

of Taxation and of Petty Government—The Disadvantages

counterbalanced by the Industry and Perseverance of the

Bulgarian Peasant—The Lending Fund in Bulgaria—Its Short

Duration—Bulgarian Peasant often unavoidably in Debt—Bulgarian

Cottages—Food and Clothing—Excellent Reports of German and

Italian Engineers on the Conduct and Working Power of Bulgarian

Laborers—Turkish Peasants—Turkish Villages—Comparative Merits

of Turkish and Bulgarian Peasants—Land _in Macedonia_—Chiefly

Large Estates—_Chiftliks_—The _Konak_, or Residence of

the Owner—Country Life of the Bey and his Family—His

Tenants (_Yeradjis_)—Character of the Yeradji—His Wretched

Condition—The Metayer System Unfairly Worked—The _Yeradji_

generally in Debt—Virtually a Serf bound to the Soil—Difficulty

of getting Peasants to become _Yeradjis_—Statute

Labor—Cultivation and Crops.

The land south of the Balkans, from the Black Sea to the frontier of

Macedonia, is divided into small holdings, which belong to and are farmed

by a peasant population of an essentially agricultural nature. Before

the late destruction of property in Bulgaria, almost every peasant in

those districts was a proprietor of from five to forty acres, which he

farmed himself. The larger estates, of which there were a considerable

number, were superintended by the proprietors themselves, but farmed

by hired laborers. The following figures will give an idea of the

average extent of the holdings in those districts: Out of a thousand

farms, three had five hundred acres; thirty had between one hundred and

five hundred; three hundred between fifty and a hundred; four hundred

between ten and fifty; and two hundred and sixty-seven under ten acres.

All these lands were well cultivated and yielded rich returns. I was

astonished at the beauty and flourishing condition of the country during

a journey I made some years ago from Adrianople to Servia. It appeared

like a vast and fruitful garden. The peace-loving and toiling Bulgarian

was seen everywhere steadily going through his daily work, while his

equally active and industrious wife and daughters were cheerfully

working by his side. _En route_, I stopped a few days in the lovely

town of Kezanlik, and was most kindly received by its well-to-do and

intelligent inhabitants, who pressed their hospitality upon me with a

genuine kindness never to be forgotten. I visited the schools, in which

the people prided themselves as much as in the astonishing progress

the pupils were making in their studies. I was also taken on a round

of visits into well-built clean houses where European furniture was

beginning to find a place, and contrasted pleasantly with the well-made

native tissues that covered sofas and floors. At dawn next morning

a tap at my door announced that it was time to rise and witness the

rose-gathering, which I wished to see. The roses begin to be collected

before sunrise, in order to keep in them all the richness of their

perfume. It requires expedition and many hands; so large bands of young

men and maidens, adding pleasure to toil whilst gathering the roses,

amuse themselves by carrying on their innocent little flirtations and

love-makings.

The large garden to which I was conducted belonged to the wealthy

Chorbadji in whose house I was staying. It was at some distance from the

town, and by the time we reached it the bright rays of a lovely spring

morning were fast spreading over the horizon. The field was thickly

planted with rose-bushes, with their rich harvest of half-open dew-laden

buds. The nightingales, in flights, hovered over them, disputing their

possession with the light-hearted Bulgarian harvesters, and chorusing

with their rich notes the gay songs of the scattered company, who,

dressed in their _Prasnik_ (feast-day) clothes,—the youths in snow-white

shirts and gaudy sleeveless vests, the girls in their picturesque

costume, the colored kerchiefs on their heads floating in the breeze,—had

the appearance of a host of butterflies flitting over the flowers. The

girls were actively and cheerfully employed in stripping off the buds and

throwing them into the baskets slung on their arms. The youths helped

them in the task, and were rewarded each with a bud from his sweetheart,

which he placed in his cap. The children ran to and fro emptying the

baskets into larger receptacles presided over by the matrons, who sat

under the shade of the trees and sorted the roses. The whole picture

was so bright and happy, in such harmony with the luxuriant beauty

surrounding it, that I was perfectly fascinated by it, and felt almost

envious of those happy beings (as I then thought them), the careless

simple children of nature. Their happiness was not for long.

It is not a week since my attention was attracted by an article in one

of our papers describing the destruction of Kezanlik and the horrors the

writer had witnessed. The once smiling and fruitful district was become

the valley of the shadow of death.

The general appearance of the villages in Bulgaria was very pleasing.

Those in the plains were not so well built or so picturesque as those

nestled among the hills, where the abundance and cheapness of the

material needed for building afforded greater facilities for more solid

and more artistic construction. Some of these villages had increased to

such an extent as to look like small towns. This was owing to the more

equal division of land among the people and the large number of landed

proprietors that cultivated it. In the midst of the difficulties that

surrounded them, such as an irregular and unequal system of taxation and

the encroachment and tyrannies of petty government officials, Zaptiehs,

Circassians, and sometimes native beys—the Bulgarian peasant, by his

steady and persevering habits of industry, managed to get on, and in

some places, when favored by circumstances, even to become wealthy. A

species of lending fund was organized (since the introduction of the

vilayet system) by the provincial government, chiefly for the benefit

of the peasant class of proprietors. The capital of this fund was

derived from an annual tax of two bushels of wheat (or their equivalent

in money) levied on every yoke of oxen owned by the farmers, and of

money contributed by those not engaged in agriculture, to the value of

one-tenth of their income-tax. The agricultural interest of the country

derived great advantage from this institution. It helped the small

farmers to borrow the sum needed for the cultivation of their crops and

the purchase of stock at a reasonable rate of interest, and enabled

those who had large estates to improve them without mortgaging; while

others were enabled to free their estates from the mortgages which

already burdened them. I believe that this excellent institution did not

long continue in working order, and that latterly it was beyond the reach

of those who really needed the money and might have benefited both their

farms and the State by its use.

As a general rule, the Bulgarian peasant is not wealthy. There are

many villages that were so deeply in debt that for years they had not

been able to pay their taxes. A rising was occasioned in one of the

villages of the district of Sofia on this account. The Pasha of Sofia

had been pressed by the Porte to send some money to Constantinople; he,

on his part, had to collect it from the people. Calling up a Chaoush

of Zaptiehs, he told him to make the round of the villages, and, under

pain of instant dismissal, not to return empty-handed. The Zaptieh was a

bandit, like many of his brethren who have represented the police corps

since the diminution of pay and abolition of the excellent body that had

been organized by the wise policy of Fuad Pasha and Ali Pasha. He marched

with his band into one of the villages and demanded that £400 should at

once be paid to him. The men were absent from the village, and the women,

not authorized to act in such matters, could not accede to his demand.

The Zaptiehs then seized some and locked them up in a barn, and, after

subjecting them to gross ill-treatment, left the village. The unfortunate

peasants, thus pressed by the authorities for taxes they could not pay,

and subjected to foul and violent treatment, revolted.

A Bulgarian cottage is neither neat nor regular in construction. A number

of poles are stuck in the ground, secured to each other by wattles,

plastered within and without with clay and cow-dung mixed with straw.

The walls are generally whitewashed, and the roof raised to a dome

covered with tiles or thatch. The interior, divided into three rooms, is

neat and clean. One of the apartments is used as the living-room of the

family, another as sleeping-room, while the third is reserved for storing

provisions and such-like domestic purposes. These rooms are of tolerable

height, and from fifteen to twenty feet long and ten to fifteen wide. The

earthen floor is hardened and covered with coarse matting and woollen

rugs, the handiwork of the inmates. The furniture consists principally of

the thick woven tissues used for bedding and carpeting.

Pictures of the saints and relics from Mount Athos adorn the walls; a

night-lamp may be seen suspended before the most venerated of these

objects, serving the double purpose of _veilleuse_ and mark of regard to

the saint. The shelves round the walls contain the crockery and shining

copper pans, a pair of pistols, and various other articles. The bedding,

neatly rolled up, is piled in one corner, while near the door stand

the jars of fresh water. Attached to these cottages are sheds for the

farm stock; and a cow-house, pig-sty, and poultry-house, an oven, and

sometimes a well, are inclosed in the yard, which is surrounded by walls

or fences, and guarded by dogs.

In the hilly districts, the cottages of both Mohammedans and Christians

are constructed with considerable solidity. The peasants throughout

European Turkey are economical and frugal; their wants are few, and they

are content with very little. They seldom taste fresh meat, and generally

live on rye bread and maize porridge, or beans seasoned with vinegar and

pepper. The dairy produce is consumed at home, and on great occasions

a young pig or lamb serves as a _pièce de résistance_, washed down by

home-made wine. For pastry they have a cake called _Banitza_, much

relished by all.

The clothing of the peasants is warm and comfortable. It is chiefly

composed of woollen stuffs, coarse linen, or cotton cloth. Every single

article of wearing apparel is woven, embroidered, and made up by the

hands of the women, who are at the same time spinners, weavers, and

tailors. When coming to town, and on _Prasnik_ days, coarse socks and

sandals are worn; these are also home-made, and their use on other

occasions is dispensed with.

The Bulgarian peasant is strong and healthy in appearance. Both in

Bulgaria and Macedonia he is a diligent worker. He may not have the

smartness and activity of the English laborer, but I have often been

assured that, notwithstanding the numerous feast-days he keeps, at the

end of the year he is found to have completed almost as much work, for

the simple reason that he makes his working-day much longer, and his

whole family turn out to assist him; for the women of these districts

are as industrious as the men: no sooner are their household tasks

accomplished than they join the paterfamilias in the field.

The German and Italian engineers who undertook the construction of the

railways in Macedonia repeatedly asserted that the labor of the natives

was equal to that of Europeans. In Macedonia, the Italian company, on

commencing operations, brought out five hundred Italian navvies to work

on the line; but on discovering that the natives, when well paid, well

treated, and shown how to set about it, did the work better than the

Italians, the latter were sent away. These gentlemen were most warm in

their praises of the steadiness of the men and of the excellence of their

work; but I must add that they did not omit to study the character of the

people and treat them with the kindness and consideration that, in the

long-run, never fail to improve and elevate even the most debased.

The Turkish peasants, who are in the minority both in Bulgaria and

Macedonia, have also a healthy appearance, added in the former place to

a look of audacity, and in the latter to a look of ferocity. The Greek

peasant is tall and rather slim, with an intelligent look and a hardy and

self-reliant expression.

All the rural population is sober. Greek and Bulgarian peasants have,

it is true, every now and then, an orgy; but there is no systematic

drunkenness. All the well-to-do farmers and peasants keep a provision

of wine and _raki_, or spirit, but their daily portion is moderate, and

excesses are only indulged in on feast-days, and even these are not of a

very serious nature.

All the villages, both Greek and Bulgarian, have their _Kodja-Bashis_,

who see to the administration of the village, proportion the taxes,

settle petty disputes, attend to the arrival and reception of guests,

Zaptiehs and troops, and other wants or necessities of the community.

The Turkish villages bear a more impoverished appearance and look more

neglected and decaying than the Christian. This is partly owing to the

seclusion of the women, who are little seen about, and, unlike the

Christian, never sit working at their doors. They are helpless; do no

field work, and very little weaving; and occupy themselves solely about

their in-door duties, and as these are not very heavy, they consequently

spend much of their time idly. The men are laborious, but not so active

and energetic as the Christians. They spend a good deal of time smoking

in the coffee-houses of the village, and are much poorer than the

Christians. This is due partly to their character and to the absence of

all help from their wives, but also in great part to the conscription,

which takes many valuable years of labor from the working-man.

Drunkenness is rare among Turks of this class, but when chance cases

occur they are of the most vicious and incurable kind.

In Macedonia landed property is more unequally divided than in Bulgaria.

Great portions of it are united in large estates held by native beys, or

by pashas and officials at Constantinople. Some of these estates comprise

an immense area, of which only a part is cultivated. They are called

_Chiftliks_; the house, or _Konak_, on the estate, is the residence of

the owner when he visits it, for he seldom resides on his property, but

is represented by a _Soubashi_, or agent. The elegance, dimensions,

and comfort of the Konak depend, of course, upon the means and habits

of the owner. Some of the more ancient of these edifices are large and

spacious, built in the style of the old Konaks at Stamboul; but they

present a still more dilapidated and neglected appearance. Others of more

recent erection are smaller, but neither more comfortable nor more tidy

in appearance. Some, again, are in the form of turrets, which, if not

elegant, have at least the merit of being as strong as small fortresses.

A large court-yard contains, beside the house, the usual farm buildings.

On entering the yard of the best regulated _Chiftlik_, the first thing

that attracts the attention is the air of complete disorder and dirt

that pervades the premises. In one or two corners may be seen heaps of

refuse, in others broken carts and farm implements standing in the midst

of mud-pools and filth of every description, including a collection of

old brooms that could never have been worn out in sweeping the place.

Among these, children, fowls, geese, ducks, and dogs roam in freedom. The

interior of the Konak is usually divided into Haremlik and Selamlik, if

sufficiently large. One or two rooms in each department may be furnished

with a few hard sofas and dingy calico curtains. The room reserved for

the master sometimes presents a somewhat better appearance, its walls

decorated with fire-arms, sometimes of beautiful workmanship, and its

furniture boasting a deal table and a few chairs. When the Bey intends

paying a long visit to his estate and is accompanied by his family,

the bedding and other household necessaries are brought from town. It

is astonishing to see how little luggage a Turkish family travels with

on such an occasion. Each person will have a _boghcha_,[6] containing

his or her wearing apparel; the articles for general use comprise a few

candlesticks, petroleum lamps, perhaps two _Leyen_[7] and _Ibrik_[8] for

ablutions, which in the morning and at meal times make the round of the

house; kitchen utensils and a few tumblers, plates, etc., are all that is

needed for the _Villeggiatura_ of a Turkish family.

The way in which the Bey spends his time on his estate is also regulated

by the means and tastes of the individual. If he be a sportsman, he

will have a battue on his lands and enjoy the pleasures of the chase.

Should he be addicted to drinking and debauchery, he has every means

of indulging his taste. His duties as landlord consist in regulating

accounts with his agent, hearing the cases that need his interference,

giving general instructions for future operations, and, above all,

realizing the profits. As to improving his estate, ameliorating the

condition of the tenants, beautifying the property by planting trees and

laying out gardens, such things are never thought of or known to have

been practised by any large land-owner in Macedonia.

The harem, on their side, bring friends to stay with them; and the days

are spent in roaming out barefooted in the most _négligés_ costumes,

eating fruit, and helping to make the winter provisions, such as

_Tarhana Kouskous_, _Youfka_,[9] _Petmaiz_,[10] _Rechel_,[11] and

_Nichesteh_.[12] No needlework is brought to fill up the leisure hours of

country life; the only amusements are the indecent conversation and the

practical jokes of the parasites who never fail to accompany such parties.

The villages owned by the bey are made up of the dwellings of the

tenants. These for the most part present a pitiable appearance of poverty

and misery, though their interiors are as clean as circumstances will

allow. They are constructed of mud and wattle, and divided into two

or three rooms, with small openings for windows, and open chimneys. A

fence incloses the house, together with the granary and cattle-shed. The

tenants are, with few exceptions, Christians, and are called _Yeradjis_.

They are poor, and look dejected and depressed, a demeanor I have

often heard superficial observers attribute to laziness and natural

worthlessness. This judgment may be just in some instances, but can by

no means be taken as generally correct; the people are as willing to

work and gain an honest living as those of any other land, but they

labor under certain disadvantages which merit attention, and which, when

carefully examined, will go far to justify their failings.

A Yeradji’s house costs from £30 to £50; sometimes it is built by the

landlord, sometimes by the tenant himself. This may happen for instance

when the Yeradji has a son to marry and the landlord refuses to build

a house for him, in which case he has to build it at his own expense,

and should he leave the estate, receives no compensation for it. These

_Chiftliks_ are cultivated on the Metayer system as it is understood

and practised in Macedonia: the landlord provides the seed in the first

instance, the Yeradji finds his own yoke of oxen or buffaloes and

implements, tills the ground, sows the grain, reaps it, threshes and

winnows it, and when the seed for the next year and the tithes have been

deducted, shares the produce with the landlord. The Metayer system on

a luxuriant soil like that of Macedonia would not only pay, but would

also contribute to increase the wealth of the estate and improve the

wretched condition of the Yeradji if it were only properly and equitably

administered. But it is not difficult to point out capital failings in

the working of the system. When the grain is cut, a certain number of

sheaves, forty for instance, of the finest and heaviest, are set aside as

samples. These are threshed separately, and the seed for the next year,

the tithes, and the landlord’s share deducted according to this standard,

which leaves the Yeradji an iniquitously small proportion of the produce.

Under this unfair arrangement the Yeradji has to give for every head of

cattle he possesses six Constantinople kilés of barley and six of wheat

to the _Soubashi_ of his bey.

In addition to these the Yeradji has to defray the heavy burden of his

own taxes, and the quartering of troops and Zaptiehs upon him, besides

other burdens, among which must be reckoned the wasted time of the

numerous feast-days, that deprive him of so much work in the year. Toil

as hard as he may, he can never become an independent and prosperous man.

When these estates are transferred by sale or other causes, the Yeradji,

should he be in debt to the estate, goes with it into a sort of bondage

terminable under certain conditions, viz.: his industry and activity

and the honesty of the landlord and his agent. If on one hand the

superabundance of feast-days is to be looked upon as a hindrance to the

Yeradji freeing himself from debt, the unscrupulous manner in which

his master or the Soubashi reckons accounts opposes fresh obstacles to

the breaking of the chain that binds him to the soil. Farm accounts

are generally kept by means of _chetolas_, or notched sticks, a very

primitive mode, leading to many errors being committed, wittingly or

unwittingly. The consequence is that all tenants are more or less in debt

to their landlords in the same manner as all Turkish landlords are in

debt to the Government or to private individuals.

The scarcity of Yeradjis and their disqualifications as tenants are now

a general complaint throughout Macedonia. It is not, however, surprising

that the better class of peasants should refuse to become Yeradjis, and

that the inferior classes, employed in their absence, should be found

fault with and be always in debt.

Of late years some of these estates have passed into the hands of

Christians, by purchase or mortgage. These proprietors, as a rule, do not

reside on their estates, which are left in the charge of an agent, but

content themselves with an occasional visit. When this property is well

situated, and (as seldom happens) free from litigation, it is said to be

a good investment.

Besides these Yeradji villages, there are the _Kephalochoria_, or

head-villages, composed of petty landholders, some of whom were formerly

wealthy, and might have continued so but for the injury done to them by

the forest regulations and the heavy impositions laid upon them by the

Government since the commencement of the war.

One of the principal grievances peasants labor under is the _angaria_,

or statute-labor, into which man, beast, and cart are impressed at the

command of a mere Zaptieh, causing a loss of time, and injury to property

and cattle, which is often fatal to an otherwise well-to-do village.

A village on a main road is never free from all kinds of vexatious

impositions and the quartering of Zaptiehs and troops, who, whether they

pay or not for what they have consumed, extort sums of money from their

hosts, and are always careful to take away with them a declaration from

the _Kodja-Bashi_ that all accounts have been settled.

The Angaria work lately exacted from the inhabitants of Cavalla for the

transport of flour for the use of the army was very nearly occasioning

troubles of a nature likely to prove fatal to the whole town. The

affair originated in the townspeople being required to carry on Sunday

loads which they willingly carried on Saturday. They refused, and shut

themselves up in their houses; whereupon an excess of zeal was displayed

by the police in trying to force them out by breaking into some of the

dwellings. This led to a slight disturbance which encouraged some noted

bad characters belonging to the Moslem population to take a menacing

attitude, and conspire to break into the offices of some of the principal

merchants of the town, ransack them, and then proceed to follow the

precedent with the rest of the town, threatening the Christians with

massacre. Panic soon spread, and the people shut themselves in their

churches. Men-of-war were telegraphed for, but luckily the local

authorities were able to put down the tumult, and order was restored

without loss of life. The incident is instructive in showing the

difficulties and dangers under which the Macedonian peasant carries on

his work. It is no wonder that the land is ill-cultivated.

Among the peasant farmers of Roumelia there is no regular system of

rotation of crops observed; but with the occupants of large estates the

ordinary rule for rich lands is two wheat crops and one of oats, then

fallow one or more years, wheat, and then sesame. In Macedonia, where

arable land is more abundant, one year’s rest is allowed to some lands.

The only manure some of these lands obtain is from the treading of the

sheep on the land in early spring and after the harvest is reaped, and

yet the soil is naturally so rich that a generally bad harvest is of

rare occurrence. The mode of cultivation is very primitive, employing

much hand labor and involving much waste. Tillage is performed with the

native plough, on an average depth of four inches to the furrow. The

instrument used for the purpose is very rude and has only one handle.

The number of buffaloes used varies from two to five. In Roumelia some

large estate owners attempted introducing agricultural implements from

Europe, but threshing-machines alone met with any success. In Macedonia

even these proved a failure, as their management is not understood, and

fuel is difficult to procure in the interior. In some parts the grain is

scattered over the stubble and then ploughed in. Much of the harvest is

done by young women and girls in Roumelia and Macedonia. They and the

male harvesters hire themselves for the June harvest. On the 21st August

the harvest-home is celebrated. Decked in their holiday costumes, crowned

with garlands, and carrying bouquets composed of ears of corn, the

reapers proceed to the nearest town to dance and sing before the doors of

the principal houses and in the market-place.

Threshing is performed in the most antique manner imaginable. The

instrument used for the purpose consists of two pieces of wood curved at

one end, fastened together, and studded with a number of flints. This

is attached at the curved end to a team of three or four horses. A girl

stands on this sledge and drives the team rapidly over the corn thrown

in bundles on the ground, which has been hardened and prepared for the

purpose. This process breaks the straw into very small lengths, making it

very palatable food for the cattle. The corn is winnowed by being thrown

up in the air with wooden shovels, the breeze carrying away the chaff. In

some parts of Macedonia the process is even more simple. A team of horses

is driven over the bundles of corn, treading out the grain. The women and

children also sit on the ground and help in the operation by beating it

with sticks.

The principal crops raised in Roumelia are wheat, barley, maize, rye,

oats, sesame, and canary-seed. A considerable quantity of rice is grown

in some parts. In the south, towards Adrianople, the vine reaches some

degree of perfection, and excellent wine is made, which, when kept for

some years, resembles sherry in taste and color. The mulberry grows

abundantly, and before the silkworm disease appeared in those districts

formed a very profitable branch of industry. The mulberry gardens

sometimes comprise several acres of land; when they are near towns or

large villages, the silkworm nurseries are placed in them. The rearing

process begins in early spring, with the budding of the leaves, and lasts

over two months. It is a very tedious and laborious work, requiring great

neatness and attention, and is generally undertaken by the women. When

the crop succeeds and is free from disease, it is an interesting process

to watch. In Macedonia the same crops are grown, with the addition of a

large supply of excellent tobacco. The best comes from Drama and Cavalla.

The cattle in Turkey, though small, are hardy and very serviceable.

Little attention has hitherto been paid by the Government towards

improving the breed. The sheep, too, are small, and their wool is of an

inferior quality. Those in Asiatic Turkey are mostly of the Karamanian,

or broad-tailed, breed. Their fat is much used by the natives for

cookery, and their milk made into cheese. Sheep-farming is carried on

to a great extent both in European and Asiatic Turkey. Buffaloes for

draft purposes and ploughing, and camels as beasts of burden, are very

numerous, especially in Asia Minor. Great numbers of goats are also kept;

their milk is much used for making cheese. The Angora goats are (I need

hardly say) much prized for their fleece. Their introduction into other

parts of the country has been attempted several times, but has invariably

failed. They do not thrive away from their native mountains.

Twenty Years' Residence among the People of Turkey: Bulgarians, Greeks, Albanians, Turks, and Armenians · 第 8 / 23 章