CHAPTER IV.

THE TURKS.

Turkish Peasants—Decrease in Numbers—Taxation

and Recruiting—Relations with the

Christians—Appearance—Amusements—House and

Family—Townspeople—Guilds—Moslems and Christians—The

Turk as an Artisan—Objection to Innovations—Life in the

Town—The Military Class—Government Officials—Pashas—Grand

Vizirs—Receptions—A Turkish Lady’s Life—The Princes—The

Sultan—Mahmoud—His Reforms—Abdul-Medjid—Abdul-Aziz—Character

and Fate—Murad—Abdul-Hamid—Slavery in Turkey.

The Turkish peasants inhabiting the rural districts of Bulgaria,

Macedonia, Epirus, and Thessaly, although the best, most industrious,

and useful of the Sultan’s Mohammedan subjects, everywhere evince

signs of poverty, decrease in numbers, and general deterioration. This

fact is evident even to the mere traveller, from the wretchedness and

poverty-stricken appearance of Turkish villages, with their houses mostly

tumbling to pieces. The inhabitants, unable to resist the drain upon them

in time of war when the youngest and most vigorous men are taken away

for military service, often abandon their dwellings and retire to more

populous villages or towns: the property thus abandoned goes to ruin,

and the fields in the same manner become waste. This evil, which has

increased since the more regular enforcement of the conscription, may

be traced to three principal sources: the first is the unequal manner

in which the conscription laws are carried out upon this submissive

portion of the people; the second is the want of laborers, the inevitable

consequence of the recruiting system, whereby the best hands are drawn

away annually at the busiest and most profitable time of the year, to

the great and sometimes irreparable injury of industry; the third is the

irregular and often unjust manner in which the taxes are levied. Under

these unencouraging circumstances the disabled old men, the wild boys,

and the women (who are never trained to work and are consequently unfit

for it), are left behind to continue the labor of the conscripts, and

struggle on as well as indolent habits and natural incapacity for hard

work will allow them. The large villages will soon share the fate of

the small ones and be engulfed in the same ruin, unless radical changes

are introduced for the benefit of the Turkish peasants. Their condition

requires careful and continued attention at the hands of a good and

equitable administration.

The Turkish peasant is a good, quiet, and submissive subject, who refuses

neither to furnish his Sultan with troops nor to pay his taxes, so far

as in him lies; but he is poor, ignorant, helpless, and improvident to

an almost incredible degree. At the time of recruiting he will complain

bitterly of his hard lot, but go all the same to serve his time; he

groans under the heavy load of taxation, gets imprisoned, and is not

released until he manages to pay his dues.

He is generally discontented with his government, of which he openly

complains, and still more with its agents, with whom he is brought

into closer contact; but still the idea of rebelling against either,

giving any signs of disaffection, or attempting to resist the law, never

gets any hold upon him. His relations with his Christian neighbors

vary greatly with the locality and the personal character of both. In

some places Christian and Turkish peasants, in times of peace, live in

tolerable harmony, in others a continual warfare of complaints on one

side and acts of oppression on the other is kept up. The only means of

securing peace to both is to separate the two parties, and compel each to

rest solely upon its own exertions and resources, and to prove its worth

in the school of necessity. An English gentleman owning a large estate in

Macedonia used to assert that until the Christian peasant adopts a diet

of beer and beef, nothing will be made of him; in the same manner I think

that until the Turk is cured of his bad habit of employing by hook or by

crook Petcho and Yancho to do his work for him, he will never be able to

do it himself.

The Turkish peasant is well built and strong, and possesses extraordinary

power of endurance. His mode of living is simple, his habits sober;

unlike the Christians of his class he has no dance, no village feast, and

no music but a kind of drum or tambourine, to vary the monotony of his

life. His cup of coffee and his chibouk contain for him all the sweets of

existence. The coffee is taken before the labors of the day are begun,

and again in the evening at the _cafiné_. His work is often interrupted

in order to enjoy the chibouk, which he smokes crouched under a tree

or wall. His house is clean but badly built, cold in winter and hot in

summer, possessing little in the way of furniture but bedding, mats,

rugs, and kitchen utensils. He is worse clad than the Christian peasant,

and his wife and children still worse; yet the women are content with

their lot, and in their ignorance and helplessness do not try, like the

Christian women, to better their condition by their individual exertions;

they are irreproachable and honest in their conduct, and capable of

enduring great trials. Some are very pretty; they keep much at home,

the young girls seldom gather together for fun and enjoyment except at

a wedding or circumcision ceremony, when they sing and play together,

while the matrons gossip over their private affairs and those of their

neighbors. The girls are married young to peasants of their own or some

neighboring village. Polygamy is rare among Turkish peasants, and they do

not often indulge in the luxury of divorce.

On the whole the Turkish peasant, though not a model of virtue, is a good

sort of man, and would be much better if he had not the habit in times

of national trouble to take upon him the name of Bashi-Bazouk, and to

transform himself into a ruffian.

Turks, generally speaking, prefer town to country life; for in towns

they enjoy more frequent opportunities of indulging in that _dolce far

niente_ which has become an integral part of the Turkish character and

has entirely routed his original nomadic disposition.

The tradespeople of the towns are ranged into _esnafs_, or guilds, and

form separate corporations, some of which include Christians when they

happen to be engaged in the same pursuits. Thus there are the _esnafs_

of barbers, linen-drapers, greengrocers, grooms, etc. These bodies,

strange to say, in the midst of general disunion and disorganization, are

governed by fixed laws and regulations faithfully observed by Christians

and Turks alike, and the rival worshippers, bound only by the obligation

of good faith and honor towards each other, pull together much better and

show a greater regard for justice and impartiality than is evinced by

any other portion of the community. Every corporation elects one or two

chiefs, who regulate all disputes and settle any difficulties that may

arise among the members. These _Oustas_, or chiefs, are master-workmen in

their different trades. The apprentices are called _Chiraks_, and obtain

promotion, according to their ability, after a certain number of years.

When considered sufficiently advanced in their business, the master,

with the consent and approval of the corporation, admits them into the

fraternity, and gives them the choice of entering into partnership with

him or beginning business on their own account.

The grooms yearly elect a chief in each town, called _Seis Bashi_,

through whom, for a small fee, grooms may be obtained with greater

security than otherwise for their good behavior and capability. The

meetings, or _lonjas_, of this _esnaf_, are held pretty frequently in

coffee-houses, where the affairs of the corporation are regulated, and

the meeting generally terminates in an orgy; after which the grooms

retire to their stables, much the worse for the wine and _raki_ they have

drunk.

Once a year each of the associations gives a picnic, either on the

feast of the patron saint or at the promotion of an apprentice. On such

occasions a certain sum is collected from the members, or taken from

the reserve fund which some of the _esnafs_ possess, for the purchase

of all kinds of provisions needed for a substantial and sometimes even

sumptuous meal, to which not only all the members of the guild are

invited, irrespective of creed and nationality, but also all strangers

who may happen to pass the place where the feast is held. The amusements

include music and dancing for the Christians, and a variety of other

entertainments, always harmless and quite within the bounds of decorum,

and joined in with the spirit of joviality that characterizes these

gatherings; disputes are of rare occurrence, and the greatest harmony

is displayed throughout the day between Christian and Mussulman. When

the interests of the Mohammedans are closely connected with those of the

Christians, both willingly forego something of their usual intolerance

in order to further the cause of business. It is strange and regrettable

that this spirit of association among the lower orders should receive so

little encouragement from the Government and the higher classes.

Though the Mohammedans in certain localities and under such circumstances

as those I have mentioned are just in their dealings with the Christians,

and maintain a friendly feeling towards them; in others, especially in

inland towns, the growing prosperity of the Christians excites a bitter

feeling among their Turkish neighbors, who often offer open hostility and

inflict irreparable injury on their business and property. Many incidents

of this nature have come under my notice, and lead me to the conclusion

that the non-progressiveness of the Turks and the rapid decline of

their empire is partly due to the unfortunate and insurmountable

incongeniality existing between the Turks and Christians. The Turks, as

the dominant race, assumed total ascendancy over the Christians, got

into the habit of using them as tools who acted, worked, and thought for

them in an irresponsible fashion, and thus lost the power of doing for

themselves, together with the sense of seeing the necessity of dealing

with justice, generosity, and impartiality, which alone could have

guaranteed enterprise or secured confidence and sympathy between the two

classes. Unfortunately for the Turks this has brought about a state of

permanent antipathy between the two that can never be corrected; nor can

any reconciliation be arrived at unless these classes become entirely

independent of one another. Any arrangement short of this, as any person

well informed as to the actual relations of Turks and Christians, be they

Greeks or Bulgarians, will admit, must be of short duration, and before

long there could not fail to come a recurrence of outbreaks, revolutions,

and the usual atrocities that accompany disorder among these races.

The Turks, generally speaking, are not active or intelligent in business,

and do not venture much into speculation or commercial transactions of

any great importance. For example, one never hears of their undertaking

banking, or forming companies for the purpose of working mines,

making railways, or any other enterprise involving risk and requiring

intelligence, activity, system, and honesty to insure success. The first

reason for this strange neglect in a people who possess one of the finest

and most productive countries in the world is a naturally stagnant

and lethargic disposition; another is the want of the support of the

Government, which has never shown itself earnestly desirous of aiding

private enterprise or guaranteeing its success by affording disinterested

protection. Until very recent times no pains have been taken either by

individuals or by the Government to introduce those innovations and

improvements which the times demand. The consequence is that the Turkish

tradespeople gradually find the number of their customers decrease, while

the Greeks, Franks, and others successfully supply the public with the

new articles, or the old ones improved and better fashioned. To give an

instance of this I will repeat an incident related to me by a Turkish bey

of “La Jeune Turquie” as a lamentable proof of the non-progressiveness

of the masses. “When at Stamboul,” said he, “I had during some time to

pass by the shop of a Turkish basket-maker who, with two of his sons,

one grown up and the other a boy, might be seen working at the wicker

hampers and common baskets which have been used in the country from

time immemorial, but are now less used by reason of the superiority of

those brought from Europe or made in the school for mechanical arts in

Stamboul, an institution not much appreciated by the artisans who enjoy

the liberty of going themselves or sending their children to learn the

innovations in their different branches of industry. The basket-maker

and his sons were evidently a steady-going set, representing the honest

Turks of olden time, but seemed to be struggling for a livelihood.

Feeling an interest in them, I one day stopped and asked the old man what

he realized per diem by the sale of his baskets. He heaved a deep sigh,

glanced round his dismal shop, ornamented only with dust-covered baskets,

and said, ‘Very little, from three to six piastres (6_d._ to 1_s._); for

my business, once a thriving one, is now cast into the shade, and few

customers come to buy the old Turkish baskets.’ ‘Why then do you not give

it up and take to something else?’

“‘No, it did very well for my father, who at his death recommended me to

continue it and leave it to my sons and grandsons, who should also be

brought up to the trade. I have done so, but it is a hard struggle for

three of us to live by it.’

“I then suggested that one or more of his sons should learn the new

method of basket-making, which would improve his business at once.

This idea did not seem to be received favorably by the old man and the

eldest son; but the boy caught at it and asked if he could go and learn.

Encouraged by his evident willingness, I prevailed upon the father to

allow me to place his son in the Industrial School, where I hear he has

made certain progress in his art.” The Turkish mechanic has no power of

invention, and his work lacks finish; but he is capable of imitating with

some success any design shown to him.

The life led by the Turkish tradespeople is extremely monotonous and

brightened by no intellectual pleasures. The shopkeeper, on leaving

his house at dawn, goes to the coffee-house, takes his small cup of

coffee, smokes his pipe, chats with the _habitués_ of the place, and

then proceeds to his business, which is carried on with Oriental languor

throughout the day. At sunset he again resorts to the coffee-house to

take the same refreshment and enjoy the innovation of having a newspaper

read to him—a novelty now much appreciated by the lower classes. He then

returns to the bosom of his family in time for the evening meal. His

home is clean though very simple; his wife and daughters are ignorant

and never taught a trade by which they might earn anything. Embroidery,

indispensable in a number of useless articles that serve to figure in

the _trousseau_ of every Turkish girl, and latterly coarse needle and

crochet work, fill up part of the time, while the mothers attend to their

household affairs. The young children are sent to the elementary school,

and the boys either go to school or are apprenticed to some trade.

A considerable proportion of the Turks belong to the army. The officers,

however, unlike those of their class in Europe, do not enjoy the prestige

or rank to which the merits of the profession entitle them. It follows

that the individuality of the officer is not taken into account: if he

possesses any special ability, it is overlooked so long as superiority of

rank does not enforce it and obtain for him proper respect from soldiers

and civilians. A Turkish captain does not receive much more consideration

from his senior officer than does a common private; and in a moment of

anger his colonel or general may strike and use foul and abusive language

to him: a major is barely secure from such treatment. There are certainly

men of merit and education among the officers of the Turkish army,

whose behavior, like that of the soldiers, is much praised by those who

have had the opportunity of seeing the admirable manner in which they

conducted themselves in the late war. Unfortunately it is principally in

individual cases that this can be admitted, and it can by no means apply

to the whole body of officers.

When not in active service Turkish officers generally have their wives

and families in the towns in which they are stationed. The pay of an

officer under the rank of a general is very inadequate and is irregularly

received—a fact sadly evident in their neglected and disordered

appearance. With boots down at heel and coats minus half the buttons,

they may often be seen purchasing their own food in the market and

carrying it home in their hands.

The young officers who have pursued their studies in the military schools

present a marked contrast to these. They are well dressed and have an

air of smartness, and in military science they are said to be far more

advanced than those who have preceded them. The training they receive,

however, is by no means a perfect one, and much will be needed before the

Turkish officer can rise to a level with the European.

Their wives are women from the towns; as they generally follow their

husbands to the different stations allotted to them, they obtain some

knowledge of the world by travelling in various parts of the country, and

are conversable and pleasant to associate with.

The sons of all good and wealthy families in the capital are either

placed in the military schools or sent to the _Kalem_ (Chancellerie

d’État), where the majority of the upper class Turkish youth are

initiated into official routine and receive different grades as they

proceed, the highest rank accorded corresponding with that of _Serik_

(general of division). The officials who pass through this school are

generally more polished in manner, more liberal in their ideas, and

superior in many respects to the mean creatures who in former times were

intrusted with offices for which they were quite unfit. This practice of

appointing _Chiboukjis_ (pipe-bearers) and other persons of low origin

as _Mudirs_ (governors of large villages) and _Kaimakams_ (governors of

districts), is now less in force, and is limited to Governors-general,

who sometimes send their servants to occupy these positions. A Mudir

may become a Kaimakam, and a Kaimakam a Pasha, but the top ranks can be

obtained without passing through the lower grades. The inferior official

placed over each village is the _Mukhtar_. He may be Christian or Moslem,

according to the population; in mixed villages two are generally chosen

to represent the respective creeds. These functionaries are intrusted

with the administration of the village; they collect the taxes, and

adjust the differences that arise among the peasants. They are too

insignificant to do much good or much harm, unless they are very vicious.

The Mudirs are at the head of the administration of their villages and

of the medjliss or council, in which members chosen by the people take

part. _Mutessarifs_ are sub-governors of _Kazas_ or large districts, and

_Valis_, Governors-general of vilayets.

All this body of officials, together with the _Defterdars_ (treasurers),

_Mektebjis_ (secretaries of the Pashalik), _politico memours_ (political

agents), etc., taken as a whole, are seldom fitted for their posts: they

are ignorant and unscrupulous and much more bent upon securing their

personal interests than the welfare of their country.

It must, however, in justice be said that, owing to the large sums the

higher officials have to disburse in order to obtain their appointments,

the great expense entailed in frequently moving themselves and their

families from one extremity of the empire to the other, and the irregular

and meagre pay the minor officials receive, it is impossible for them to

live without resorting to some illicit means of increasing their incomes.

And it must be admitted that praiseworthy exceptions are to be found here

and there among both the higher and the lower officials.

The case is very simple. A man has to pay a vast sum of money to various

influential people in order to get a certain post. His pay is nothing

much to speak of. He is liable to be ejected by some one’s caprice at any

moment. If he is to repay his “election expenses” and collect a small

reserve fund, he must give up all idea of honesty. An honest official in

Turkey means a bankrupt. Under the system of favoritism and bribery no

course but that of corruption and extortion is open to the official. _Il

faut bien vivre_; and so long as the old system exists one must do in

Turkey as the rest of the Turks do. It is utterly corrupt; but it must be

reformed from the top downwards.

People in the East never think of asking what was the origin of pashas or

in what manner they have attained their high station. Genealogical trees

in Turkey are not cultivated; most of the old stems (as explained in Part

II., Chap. I.) were uprooted at the beginning of the present century;

their branches, lopped off and scattered in all directions, have in some

instances taken fresh root and started into a new existence; but they no

longer represent the strength of the ancient trunk. The important body

of beys, pashas, etc., thus abolished, had to be replaced by a new body

selected without much scrutiny from the crowd of adventurers who were

always awaiting some turn of fortune whereby they might be put into some

official position and mend their finances.

Yusbashi A., one of the chief leaders of the Bashi-Bazouks, who performed

the work of destruction at the beginning of the Bulgarian troubles,

was subsequently sent to Constantinople by the military authorities to

be hung; but being reprieved and pardoned, he was promoted to the rank

of Pasha. He had come, when a boy, to the town of T⸺ as an apprentice

in a miserable barber’s shop; later on he left his master and entered

the service of a native bey. During the Crimean war he joined the

Bashi-Bazouks, and when peace was made returned to the town with the rank

of captain and a certain amount of money, which he invested in land. By

extortion and oppression of every kind exercised upon his peasants, he

soon became a person of consequence in the town. Later on this man found

his way to the Konak, was appointed member of the council, and was placed

upon some commission by which he was enabled, through a series of illegal

proceedings, to double and triple his fortune at the expense of the

Government revenues. The misdeeds of this man and some of his associates

becoming too flagrant to be longer overlooked, the Porte sent a

commission to examine the Government _defters_ or accounts. The captain,

by no means frightened, but determined to avoid further trouble in the

matter, is said to have set fire to the Konak in several places, so that

all the documents that would have compromised him were destroyed and the

Pasha and commission who came to inspect his doings barely escaped with

their lives. Knowing the desperate character of the man they had to deal

with, they were alarmed, and unfeignedly glad to get away and hush the

matter up.

Thus the illustrious line of Pashas and Grand Vizirs, like the Kiprilis,

was put aside and replaced by a long list of nonentities who, with the

exception of a few such as Ali and Fuad Pashas, cannot be said to have

benefited their country in any remarkable degree, or to have shown any

special qualifications as statesmen.

The title of Grand Vizir, now nominally abolished, was one of the oldest

and the highest given to a civil functionary. His appointment, being

of a temporal nature, depended entirely upon the will of the Sultan,

who might at his pleasure load the Vizir with honors, or relieve him

of his head. This unpleasant uncertainty as to the future attached

to the Vizir’s office gradually almost disappeared as the Sultans

began to recognize the indispensable services rendered to them by

an able Grand Vizir. They began to appreciate the comfort of having

ministers to think for them, make laws, and scheme reforms in their

name; and this confidence, so agreeable to an indolent Sultan, and

so convenient to an irresponsible minister, was the ruling principle

of the constitution during the reign of Sultan Abdul-Medjid, who

was affable to his ministers, changed them less frequently than his

ancestors did, and loaded them indiscriminately with decorations

and gifts. Not so his wayward and capricious brother and successor

Abdul-Aziz, who scrupled not, on the slightest pretext, to dismiss his

Grand Vizir. A trifling change in his personal appearance, a divergence

of opinion, timidly expressed by the humble minister—who stood with

hands crossed, dervish-fashion, on his shoulders, in the attitude of an

obedient slave—just as much as a more serious fault, such as casting

difficulties in the way of his Imperial Majesty with regard to his

exorbitant demands on the treasury, were sufficient to seal the fate of

the daring _Sadrazam_. But in spite of the difficulties and drawbacks

and humiliations of the post, a Grand Vizir continued to be, after the

Sultan, the most influential person in the country. The gates of his

Konak were at once thrown open, and the other ministers and functionaries

flocked to pay their respects to him. The governors of districts

telegraphed their felicitations, while the ante-chamber and courts of his

house and office were rarely free from the presence of a regular army of

office-hunters, petitioners, dervishes, old women, and beggars, waiting

for an audience or a chance glimpse of the minister on his exit, when

each individual pressed forward to bring his or her claim to his notice.

_Pek aye, bakalum olour_,[3] were the words that generally dropped from

the mouths even of the least amiable Vizirs on such occasions—words of

hope that were eagerly caught by the interested parties, as well as by

the numerous _cortége_ of _kyatibs_, servants, and favorites of the

great man who, according to the importance of the affairs or the station

of the applicant, willingly undertook to be the advocate of the cause,

guaranteeing its success by the counter-guarantee of receiving the

_rushvets_ or bribes needed in all stages of the affair. This method of

transacting business, very general in Turkey, is called _hatir_, or by

favor; its extent is unlimited, and its application varied and undefined;

it can pardon the crime of murder, imprison an innocent person, liberate

a condemned criminal, take away the property of one minister to present

it to another, remove governors from their posts just as you change

places in a quadrille, or simply turn out one set, as in the cotillon,

to make room for another. Anything and everything can in fact be brought

about by this system, except a divorce when the plea is not brought by

the husband.

I have particularized the Grand Vizir as doing business in this way

merely because it was he who was more appealed to in this manner than

the other ministers, not because the others do not follow closely

in his steps. Their duties are extensive and important, and demand

for their proper and exact performance not only intelligence, but

also high educational qualifications, which, with rare exceptions,

Turkish officials do not possess—a capital defect, which, added to the

uncertainty of the period they are likely to remain in office, and the

systematic practice, pursued by each successive minister, of trying to

undo what his predecessor had done for the country, and of dismissing

most of the civil officials and provincial governors to replace them by

some from his own set, greatly contributes to increase maladministration,

and to create the disorder that has long prevailed in Turkey.

About honesty I need not speak, for no business of any kind is undertaken

without bribery; even if the minister should be above this, there are

plenty of people surrounding him who would not be so scrupulous. Kibrizli

Mehemet Pasha was one of the few high officials against whom no charge

of the kind could be brought, but his _Kavass-Bashi_ condescended to

take even so small a sum as five piastres as a bribe. This Pasha was a

thorough gentleman, high-minded both in his administrative affairs and

family life. After he lost his position as Grand Vizir, I had occasion

to see a great deal of him; he took the reverses of fortune with great

calmness and _sang-froid_; so do all Turks meet “the slings and arrows of

outrageous fortune.”

The fall of a minister was generally rumored some time before it took

place, during which period he and those around him tried to make the

most of the opportunities left to them, while the opposition continued

their intrigues until the blow finally fell. When this happened the

_Sadrazam_ remained at home, the gates of his Konak were closed, and the

world, including his best friends, would pass without venturing to enter;

the only visitors would be his banker, doctor, and creditors, who in

prosperity and adversity never neglect this duty.

During the administration of a Grand Vizir, his harem was also called

upon to play its part and take the lead in the female society of

Stamboul. The _salon_ of the chief wife, like that of her husband,

would be thrown open, and crowds of visitors, including the wives

of the other ministers, would arrive to offer their respects and

felicitations, and demand favors and promotions for their sons or posts

for their husbands. All these visitors, on their arrival, were ushered

into the ante-chamber according to their respective stations, where

they took off their _feridjés_ and refreshed themselves with sweets,

coffee, sherbets, etc. The interval between this and their reception,

sometimes of several hours’ duration, was spent in conversation among

the visitors, in which some of the ladies of the household, or some

visitors staying in the house, would join, until they were requested

to proceed to the drawing-room. When the hostess appeared all would

rise from their seats, walk towards the door, make _temenlas_ and deep

obeisances, and endeavor to kiss her foot or the hem of her garment,

an act of homage which she would accept, but gracefully and with much

dignity try to prevent in those of high rank by saying _Istafourla_

(Excuse me—don’t do it). The conversation, started afresh, would depend

for subjects upon the disposition and tact of the mistress of the house;

but would chiefly consist in flattery and adulation, carried sometimes

to a ridiculous extent. The manner of the _hanoum effendi_ would be

smooth and friendly towards the partisans of her husband, curt towards

those of the opposition, but patronizing and protecting in its general

tone towards all. Should the Vizir’s lady be of the unprincipled type,

the conversation would bear a different _cachet_. I was told by some

distinguished Turkish ladies that when they paid a visit to the wife of a

short-lived Vizir, the lady, both old and ugly, entertained them with a

recital of the follies and weaknesses of her husband and exposed some of

her own not more select proceedings into the bargain.

The wife of a Grand Vizir also played a great part with regard to the

changes, appointments, and dismissions which followed each new Vizirate,

by the influence she exercised both over him and also in high quarters,

where she often found means to make herself as influential as at home.

I have often been asked what a Turkish lady does all day long? Does

she sleep or eat sugar-plums, and is she kept under lock and key by a

Blue-Beard of a husband, who allows her only the liberty of waiting upon

him? A Turkish lady is certainly shut up in a harem, and there can be no

doubt that she is at liberty to indulge in the above-mentioned luxuries,

should she feel so disposed; she has possibly, at times, to submit to

being locked up, but the key is applied to the outer gates, and is left

in the keeping of the friendly eunuch. Besides, woman is said to have a

will of her own, and “where there is a will there is a way” is a proverb

to which Turkish ladies are no strangers. I have seldom met with one who

did not make use of her liberty; in one sense she may not have so much

freedom as Englishwomen have, but in many others she possesses more.

In her home she is perfect mistress of her time and of her property,

which she can dispose of as she thinks proper. Should she have cause of

complaint against any one, she is allowed to be very open spoken, holds

her ground, and fights her own battles with astonishing coolness and

decision.

Turkish ladies appreciate to the full as much as their husbands the

virtues of the indispensable cup of coffee and cigarette; this is their

first item in the day’s programme. The _hanoums_ may next take a bath;

the young ladies wash at the _abtest_ hours; the slaves when they can

find time. The _hanoum_ will then attend to her husband’s wants, bring

him his pipe and coffee, his slippers and pelisse. While smoking he will

sit on the sofa, whilst his wife occupies a lower position near him, and

the slaves roll up the bedding from the floor. If the gentleman be a

government functionary the official bag will be brought in, and he will

look over his documents, examining some, affixing his seal to others,

saying a few words in the intervals to his wife, who always addresses

him in a ceremonious manner with great deference and respect. The

children will then trot in in their _gedjliks_ with the hair uncombed,

to be caressed, and ask for money with which to buy sweets and cakes.

The custom of giving pence to children daily is so prevalent that it is

practised even by the poor.

The children, after an irregular breakfast, are sent to school or

allowed to roam about the house; the _effendi_ proceeds to perform his

out-of-door toilet and leaves the _haremlik_, when the female portion of

the establishment, freed from the pleasure or obligation of attending to

his wants, begin the day’s occupation. If this should include any special

or unusual household work, such as preserve-making, washing or ironing,

or general house-cleaning, the lady, be she of the highest position, will

take part in it with the slaves. This is certainly not necessary, for

she has plenty of menials, but is done in order to fill up the day, many

hours of which necessarily hang heavily on her hands when not enlivened

by visiting or being visited. In the capital, however, less of this kind

of employment is indulged in by the fashionable _hanoums_, who are trying

to create a taste for European occupations by learning music, foreign

languages, and fine needlework. The time for dressing is irregular. A

lady may think proper to do her hair and make herself tidy for luncheon,

or she may remain in her _gedjlik_ and slippers all day. This fashion of

receiving visitors _en négligé_ is not considered at all peculiar unless

the visit has been announced beforehand.

Visiting and promenading, the principal amusements of Turkish ladies,

are both affairs of very great importance. Permission has previously to

be asked from the husband, who, if liberally disposed, freely grants

it; but if jealous and strict, he will disapprove of seeing his family

often out of doors. When a walk or drive is projected the children all

begin to clamor to go with their mother. Scarcely is this question

settled by coaxing or giving them money, than another arises as to which

of the slaves are to be allowed to go. Tears, prayers, and even little

quarrels and disturbances follow, until the mistress finally selects her

party. The details of the toilette are very numerous; the face has to

be blanched, then rouged, the eyebrows and lashes to be blackened with

_surmé_, and a variety of other little coquetries resorted to requiring

time and patience before the final adjustment of the _yashmak_ and

_feridgé_.

Then comes the scramble for places in the carriage, the _hanoums_

naturally seat themselves first, the rest squeeze themselves in, and sit

upon each other’s knees. It is wonderful to see how well they manage this

close packing, and how long they can endure the uncomfortable postures in

which they are fixed.

If the excursion is solely for visiting, the occupants of the carriages

make the best of the time and liberty by coquetting with the grooms and

_agas_ in attendance, should these be young and handsome, and sending

salaams to the passers-by, mingled with laughter and frolic. But when the

excursion has a picnic in prospective, or a long drive into the country,

the gayety and fun indulged in is bewildering; and the _hanoums_ can

only be compared to a flock of strange birds suddenly let loose from

their cages, not knowing what to make of their new freedom. Flirting,

smoking, eating fruits and sweets, walking about, running, or lounging

on the carpets they bring with them, varied by music and singing, fill

the day. They usually set out early and return before sunset in time

to receive their master on his visit to the harem before dinner. When

this meal is over, the company, comfortably dressed in their _négligé_

costume, indulge in coffee and cigarettes, and the events of the day are

discussed. The ladies then retire to rest at an early hour, and rise the

next day to go through the same routine.

At the foot of the imperial throne we see the princes, who, like children

at dessert, are to be seen, not heard. They now enjoy a degree of freedom

before unknown, and their wants and caprices are to a certain extent

satisfied by allowances from the Sultan. In childhood and youth they are

masters of their own time, and employ it as they please. On emerging

from boyhood they are furnished with harems; some more distantly related

to the reigning Sultan are allowed to have children; but the others

are denied that privilege. All these members of the imperial family

live a very secluded life. They are not allowed to take any part in the

administrative, hold commissions in the army or navy, or enter the civil

service. The only exception to this rule was the son of the late Sultan

Abdul-Aziz, who, at the age of ten, was, I believe, a captain in the

army, and a few years later was made a general. This is said to have

given the occasion for a reproach made to the prince by his father, who

at the moment of his deposition turned to him and said, “My son, I placed

you in the military school where you remained three years without making

a single friend; see what this has now led to!”

This reproach of being friendless addressed to any of the princes is

unjust, as they are not allowed to make friendships. Friends for a prince

mean a party, and a party means cabals and conspiracies, so all such

dangerous connections are carefully suppressed, and the prince, under the

influence of the suspicion and espionage by which he is surrounded, is as

little disposed to have any friends among the influential classes and men

of rank as they are to court his friendship or approach him too closely.

A personal friend of the ex-Sultan Murad told me that in early youth that

prince and he had been very much thrown together, and a sincere affection

had sprung up between them, which, however, on Sultan Abdul-Medjid’s

death, had to be entirely given up. Rare meetings between them could only

be arranged when the prince went to Pera on shopping expeditions. Thus

the Ottoman princes, spoilt in childhood, secluded from active public

life, are left to vegetate in their respective homes.

The Princes of the Blood and all relations of the late Sultan used always

to be cleared out of the way on the accession of a new Padishah; but the

custom has fallen into disuse since the time of Mahmoud II., who found it

necessary to order the strangulation of the deposed Sultan, the drowning

in sacks of 174 of his wives and odalisks, and also the decapitation of a

great number of other persons. This measure, considered needful to insure

the inviolability of his person, as the only remaining representative of

the house of Othman, soon put an end to the rebellion that had occasioned

his ascension to the throne. On the day of his proclamation as Sultan,

thirty-three heads were exposed at the gate of the Seraglio to bear

evidence to the fact. Rebellion, fire, and murder, it was said, could not

be otherwise put down than by counter-violence, and the extreme measures

adopted by the new sovereign ended in the restoration of order in the

capital.

Notwithstanding this black page in the history of Mahmoud, this Sultan,

to whom history has not yet done justice, was one of the best, most

enlightened, and powerful of Ottoman sovereigns.

Unlike most of his predecessors, he had not wasted the long years of

captivity in idleness and frivolous occupations, but had seriously

employed them in study. He originated the material changes that have

since been made in the life of seraglio inmates, and also endeavored to

better the condition of his Christian subjects. Whatever progress has

been made by the Turkish Mohammedans in the road of civilization must

also be attributed to his efforts. Amid wars without and revolts within,

the discontent of the Moslems at the attempted innovations, the clamoring

of the Christians for the amelioration of their condition, the Sultan

struggled on for thirty years with a perseverance worthy of the cause,

till death put an end to his work. He was succeeded by his son, the

liberal but weak-minded Abdul-Medjid.

The young Sultan was well imbued with the ideas of his father, but less

capable of carrying them out; yet he showed himself liberal and sincerely

desirous of improving the degraded condition into which the country had

fallen.

The security of life and property became greater under his rule.

Executions and confiscation of property became less frequent, and a

general change for the better in the material existence of the people

was decreed; but unfortunately the Sultan could not insure the carrying

out of his decrees. The exchequer, impoverished by the extravagance of

the palace and the corruption of the officials, was on the brink of

bankruptcy, which was only postponed by the foreign loans obtained in the

succeeding reign.

Had the Sultan’s perseverance in seeing these changes enforced been equal

to his good-will in ordaining them, Turkey might have been spared many of

its present miseries.

He was beloved by his subjects, who, in the midst of their misery,

forgave his weakness in remembering his gentleness and benevolence to

those who appealed to his mercy. His aversion to bloodshed was so great

that he was never known to decree a single execution. This was, of

course, a serious hindrance to carrying on the judicial arrangements

of the country. In cases of urgent necessity his signature had to be

obtained by subterfuge.

A lover of pleasure and ease, Abdul-Medjid, on coming to the throne, soon

plunged into that life of self-indulgence, luxury, and excess, which at

once began to tell upon his delicate constitution and by degrees affected

in a most fatal manner his moral and physical faculties; and he died of

exhaustion on June 25th, 1861.

His successor, Abdul-Aziz, had been the first to profit by the indulgence

and liberality of his brother, who from the beginning to the end of his

reign showed him genuine brotherly affection, allowed him uncontrolled

freedom as heir-apparent, and furnished him with a very liberal income,

making a point of never getting any object of value for himself, without

offering its equivalent to his brother.

Abdul-Aziz, however, did not make any good use of the liberty he enjoyed

before coming to the throne. Sensual, extravagant, and narrow-minded,

his occupations and pleasures were anything but imperial: his wasteful

habits were ruinous to his country, whilst his want of judgment and

foresight prevented his realizing the fatal effects of his conduct.

This may, however, be accounted for, to a great extent, by the fact

that he was subject at times to _merak_ (aberration of mind). From an

early age he began to give signs of that whimsical, suspicious, and

morose disposition which during the latter part of his reign became the

principal characteristic of his nature.

Unlike his brother, Abdul-Medjid, he was strongly built, and his personal

appearance was singularly unattractive. His tastes and amusements, very

much in harmony with his exterior, showed themselves in all kinds of

extravagant and odd fancies. Cock-fighting was a spectacle in which he

greatly delighted, by turns decorating or exiling the combatants.

In his moments of good-humor he often imposed a wrestling match upon his

ministers and favorites, at times taking an active part in the sport. The

celebrated Nevrez Pasha, half knave, half fool, who from the lowest stage

of seraglio functions had been raised to a ministerial position, was the

one generally chosen by the Sultan with whom to measure his strength.

The corpulent Pasha never failed to be the beaten party; the ludicrous

attitudes into which he fell and his jokes gave him a higher grade

whenever they were called into play, and caused him to say that every

kick he received from the imperial foot was worth to him a _Nishan_ (a

decoration), a konak, or a vizirlik.

It would, however, be unfair not to acknowledge in this Sultan some good

services rendered to his country.

One of these is the purchase of the fine fleet of iron-clads the Porte

now possesses; another, his untiring efforts in placing the army on the,

comparatively speaking, improved and high footing on which it stood at

the beginning of the war; and a third, the construction of the railways

now existing in the country. Some will perhaps reckon among his merits

the shrewdness he and his ministers displayed in accomplishing these

undertakings with funds that were not exactly theirs.

The details of the dethronement, short captivity and death of Sultan

Abdul-Aziz, though extremely curious and interesting, are as yet but

little known to the public. One of the ladies of his seraglio related

some of the incidents connected with these events to me, but she said,

“We cannot now divulge all, for fear of prejudicing the living, but

in course of time, when history reveals unknown facts, all doubts and

mystery on his untimely death will be removed.” Upon which she burst into

tears, and repeatedly uttered the Turkish exclamation of distress, “Aman!

Aman!”

She then recited to me in Arabic the verse which the unfortunate Sultan,

on entering his prison, traced on the dust that covered the table. The

following is a translation:—

Man’s destiny is Allah’s will,

Sceptres and power are His alone,

My fate is written on my brow,

Lowly I bend before His Throne.

Turning towards the window the Sultan noticed that one of his much-prized

iron-clads had been placed in front of the _Yahli_ which served as his

prison, with the guns pointed towards him. But a still more appalling

sight met his gaze. A sailor was seized by a few of his comrades, who,

pointing him out to the Sultan, passed a crimson _kushak_ or girdle

round his neck and led him three times round the deck, signifying to

the unfortunate captive that in three days he would undergo the same

operation. Pointing this out to the Validé Sultana, he exclaimed,

with emotion, “Mother! see to what use the force I have created for

the preservation and aggrandizement of my empire is applied! This is

evidently the death reserved for me.” A belt containing some of the most

valuable crown-jewels, which the Sultan had placed on his person when

leaving the palace, disappeared the day he was found dead, and has never

since been heard of. The Sultan had to ask for food repeatedly before he

was supplied with it, and even then what he obtained was given him on the

_sofra_ of a common soldier. On my further questioning this lady on the

cause of the Sultan’s untimely end, she passed her hand over her lips,

meaning they were sealed, and muttering a “_Turbé Istafourla_,” said, “It

is not in my power to reveal more!—the justification of the dead must be

withheld so long as it endangers the living. The duty of the devoted is

to keep silence until history can divulge secrets that will then harm

none.”

Soon after the death of Abdul-Aziz, I had occasion to discuss it with a

Turkish general. Expressing his opinion of the equally unfortunate Sultan

Murad, the Pasha, with smiling urbanity, said, “I cannot tell as yet; but

with us, Sultans are now so numerous, that we can afford to sweep them

away successively with a broom, if they do not suit us.”

Every one is acquainted with the quiet and peaceable manner in which

Sultan Abdul-Aziz was dethroned in 1876, to make room for his nephew

Murad. This unfortunate prince was as little acquainted with the changes

that were being planned as was his uncle, and his sensitive nature,

unprepared for the shock that placed him on the throne, caused him

to receive the messenger who came to inform him of the change in his

position more as the bearer of his sentence to death than the herald of

sovereignty. Taken by surprise at the moment he was about to retire,

the prince hastily put on his coat and met the vizir at the door of the

Mabeyn. Deathly pale, but calm and resigned, he looked in his face, and

said, “What is my offence, and whom have I ever harmed that I should thus

be doomed to an untimely death?”

Entirely ignorant of the conspiracy that opened a path for him to the

throne, and severely grieved for his uncle’s misfortunes, the news of

his tragical end is said to have given the first shock to the young

sovereign’s intellect, and, followed by the murder of the ministers, with

its equally distressing details, determined the bent of his vacillating

mind. One of the first symptoms of his insanity was a habit he fell

into of spanning with his hand the distance between the wrist and elbow

joint, striking the bend of the arm with his hand, then starting, and

reflecting. I have never heard of his having broken out into acts of

violence, except upon one occasion, when he raised a stick and struck

his brother-in-law. On one occasion he made his escape into the garden,

where he was found sitting on a marble slab, making grimaces at those

who approached him. He is said to have experienced some lucid intervals;

one of these chanced to be at the moment the salutes were being fired

on the occasion of his brother Abdul-Hamid’s ascension to the throne.

Looking at his son, a promising youth of fourteen, he said, “My boy, what

is the reason of this firing?” “Oh!” said the boy, wishing to spare his

father’s feelings, “it is the fête of a foreign monarch.” “No,” said the

unhappy monarch, “it is the proclamation of my own dethronement, and the

accession of thy uncle to the throne; God’s will be done!” Heaving a deep

sigh, he shed a few tears, and, happily for him, under the circumstances,

relapsed into his former state.

Sultan Murad was said to possess many of the virtues of his father, a

kind and gentle disposition, and intelligence and liberality of ideas.

During his short reign, the affability of his manners, and the desire

he showed to please all parties, irrespective of race or religion, and

to abolish the burdens that weighed upon them, had gained for him the

respect and affection of his subjects, which is evinced even to the

present day by sorrow and sympathy for his misfortunes.

The present Sultan at first declined the imperial throne, from feelings

of affection and delicacy towards his brother, and could only be

prevailed upon to accept it when all the physicians, called in for

advice, pronounced Murad’s case quite hopeless. Sultan Abdul-Hamid is

much esteemed and highly spoken of by persons who have had the honor

of conversing with his Imperial Majesty. He is, moreover, said to be

qualified for his position, being liberal in his ideas, and possessed

of many of the qualities of a good sovereign, and desirous of carrying

out the reforms that alone can insure the happiness of his people and

restore prosperity to the country. Unfortunately, he came to the throne

at a moment when the best and most gifted of sovereigns could do little

single-handed. When affairs are settled, much will naturally be expected

from him, which his friends and the well-wishers of Turkey feel confident

he will realize.

I have not yet mentioned an important section of the Turkish

community—the slaves. Slavery in Turkey is now reduced mainly to one

sex. Male slaves, except in the capacity of eunuchs, are now rare,

though every now and then a cargo of them is smuggled into some port

and privately disposed of, since the Government professes to share the

anti-slavery views of England. But female slavery is a necessary part of

the seraglio and of the Turkish harem system. The seraglio is of course

recruited from its numbers; and few Turks can afford to keep more than

one free wife. A second wife insists upon a separate establishment, and

causes endless jealousy to the first wife and trouble to the husband.

But a slave is no cause of jealousy, lives in the same house as the

wife, and costs much less to keep than a free woman. Female slaves,

too, are generally given by fathers to their sons, to avoid the expense

of a marriage; and daughters, on marrying, are always supplied with a

slave as lady’s-maid. Moreover, slaves are in much request as servants,

and do their work excellently, besides presenting many advantages and

conveniences that are not found in free women.

The condition of slaves in Turkey is not a hard one. The principle is of

course radically wrong, and the initial stage is full of cruelty. But the

women are not often ill-treated; and when an occasional case of violence

and ill-usage occurs, it excites general indignation among the Moslems.

A slave is entitled to her liberty after seven years of bondage, and

she generally gets it, and is dowered and married to a freeman, though

sometimes a bad master will evade the law by selling her before the seven

years have quite expired. But this is a rare case, and the slave system

in Turkey is, as a whole, a widely different thing from American slavery.

The only class who suffer much are the negresses. When they are freed

and married off it not seldom happens that from their native wildness

or other causes they quarrel with their husbands and are turned off to

earn their own living as best they may. Their condition then becomes very

wretched, and the quarter in which they live is a dismal group of rickety

houses, inhabited by a miserable and ragged set of women and children.

This is by no means the case with the Abyssinians or the half-castes,

who rank higher, and never have to appeal to public charity. But the

negresses are hardly worse off than the disabled slaves. If a woman of

this class by some accident or age becomes unfit for work, she is looked

upon as a burden and very badly cared for.

Turkish slavery is not so bad as it might be: the system is softened by

many humane laws, and is marked by a kindly paternal character. Yet it is

a blot on the country, and so soon as the harem system and polygamy can

be got rid of, it too must go.

Twenty Years' Residence among the People of Turkey: Bulgarians, Greeks, Albanians, Turks, and Armenians · 第 4 / 23 章