CHAPTER I.

Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri

SCIENCE OF TRAPPING

DESCRIBES THE FUR BEARING ANIMALS,

THEIR NATURE, HABITS AND DISTRIBUTION,

WITH PRACTICAL METHODS

FOR THEIR CAPTURE.

By E. KREPS.

REVISED EDITION.

Published by

A. R. HARDING, Publisher

106 Walnut Street

St. Louis, Mo.

Copyright. 1909.

By A. R. HARDING PUB. CO.

CONTENTS.

I. The Trapper's Art

II. The Skunk

III. The Mink

IV. The Weasel

V. The Marten

VI. The Fisher

VII. The Otter

VIII. The Beaver

IX. The Muskrat

X. The Fox

XI. The Wolf

XII. The Bear

XIII. The Raccoon

XIV. The Badger

XV. The Opossum

XVI. The Lynx

XVII. The Bay Lynx or Wild Cat

XVIII. The Cougar

XIX. The Wolverine

XX. The Pocket Gopher

XXI. The Rabbit

XXII. Tracks and Signs

XXIII. Handling Furs

XXIV. Steel Traps

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

The Author with a Catch of Furs

Trap Set in Correct Position at Den

The Balance Pole

The Skunk

The Mink

Mink Set under Log

The White Weasel

The Marten

A Marten Set

The Fisher

The Otter

Otter Trap Set under Ice

The Beaver

Trap, Set for Beaver

Beaver Trap Set under Ice

The Muskrat

The Red Fox

Water Set for Fox

Dry Land Set for Fox

The Coyote or Prairie Wolf

Scent Set for Wolf

Bank Set for Wolf and Coyote

The Grizzly Bear

The Raccoon

The Badger

The Opossum

The Lynx

The Wild Cat or Bay Lynx

The Cougar

The Wolverine

The Pocket Gopher

Burrow of Pocket Gopher

The Rabbit

Rabbit Snares

Tracks of Furbearing Animals

Tracks of Furbearing Animals

Tracks of Furbearing Animals

Tracks of Game Animals

Canadian Pattern Stretching Boards

Steel Traps

[Illustration: The Author with a Catch of Furs.]

INTRODUCTION.

Among the many outdoor occupations, trapping the furbearing animals

is perhaps the most pleasant and in many instances is also very

profitable.

Although trapping was one of the earliest industries of this country,

the occupation has not passed away, along with the vanishing

wilderness, for there is more trapping done today than at any time

during the past. Scattered all over North America, in both the

thickly settled portions and the more remote districts are thousands

of trappers who are each season deriving both pleasure and profit

from this unique calling.

Trapping in itself is an art. Many of the wild creatures are

exceedingly wary and the trapper must match his reason against the

instinct, the natural wariness and the acquired knowledge of the

animals. This wariness alone has saved some species of animals from

extinction, and although man is superior to all brute life, such

intelligent animals as the fox and the wolf frequently prove a match

for the most expert of trappers.

In order to be successful, one must know the wild animals as a mother

knows her child. He must also know and use the most practical methods

of trapping, and it is my object to give in this work, the most

successful trapping methods known.

These modes of trapping the furbearing animals have for the most part

been learned from actual experience in various parts of the country,

but I also give the methods of other successful trappers, knowing

them to be as good as my own. I am personally acquainted with some of

the most expert trappers in North America and have also followed the

Indians over their trap lines and in this way have learned many

things which to the white man are not generally known.

E. KREPS.

SCIENCE OF TRAPPING.

CHAPTER I.

THE TRAPPER'S ART.

During past ages many of the wild creatures of the forest and stream

were hunted and captured in various ways by the inhabitants of the

wilderness,--the flesh of these animals being the principal food of

many tribes of savages and the skins being used for clothing; but it

was only after furs became a staple article of wearing apparel among

civilized nations and the traders had learned of the profits to be

made in the fur trade that wholesale and systematic trapping began.

For many years after the commencement of the fur trade in this

country, the occupation of trapping was monopolized by the native

inhabitants, but later some of the bolder of the white race pushed

into the wilderness and learned the trapper's art.

To-day there are thousands of trappers scattered over the United

States, Canada, Alaska and Mexico and the catching of wild animals

for profit is no longer considered to be an occupation fitting only

for the savage, for there is scarcely a farmer, ranchman or other

person whose calling brings him close to nature who is not more or

less interested in the fur-bearing animals. Wild animals are not all

hunted for the sake of their furs. There are some such as the wolf,

coyote, mountain lion and wild-cat which have become positive

nuisances because of their destruction of stock and for such the

government and in many cases the stockmen pay a bounty. The capture

of wolves and coyotes especially has become a profitable business.

As to the profits to be derived from this occupation, there are

professional trappers in the North, South and West whose catches

amount to from five hundred to two thousand dollars or more each

season, but the number who do as well as that is comparatively small.

By far the greater number of trappers are those who follow other

occupations and devote only their spare time to the capture of wild

animals and they are for the most part farmers and country boys who

in this way add considerable to their yearly income.

It is not at all necessary to go into the wilds in order to do

successful trapping, and almost any farming section will be found to

be a paying trapping ground. Indeed, the country man or boy will in

most cases do far better in his own home district than he would by

going into some place with which he is not familiar even though the

fur-bearing animals be more plentiful there than at home. In his own

territory he will learn the haunts of each kind of fur-bearing

animal, its route of travel, the dens, etc., and this knowledge will

be of great value when the actual trapping commences.

Of course all of the various species of animals will not be found in

any one section but where one is missing there will be some other

found in fair numbers. Muskrats are most numerous as a rule in the

settled parts of the country and wherever the muskrat is found there

the mink is also. Skunks are found almost everywhere and the ease

with which they may be captured makes the trapping of them a

lucrative business. Foxes are found in most of the hilly sections and

while they are not so easily captured, one can make a success of it

if he gives the matter careful study and uses sufficient care in

setting and attending the traps. In many parts of the South the

raccoon is found in abundance as is also the opossum and the otter,

the wild cat and other animals are found more sparingly in many parts

of the country.

The trapper no matter where he is located is certain to meet with

many hardships but it is a pleasant calling for all of that and there

is a certain amount of pleasure in even the roughest experiences.

Once one has followed trapping for a few seasons it is almost

impossible to give up the wild, free life. The study of the habits of

the wild creatures which is necessary if one wishes to become a

successful trapper brings one into close touch with nature and the

work is extremely fascinating.

In the early days before the steel trap came into general use, the

deadfall and the snare were used almost exclusively for the capture

of the fur-bearers, but at present when steel traps have reached a

high state of perfection, are sold at prices which place them within

the reach of all, they are preferred by most trappers and many of the

most expert have discarded the wooden traps entirely. However, both

the deadfall and the snare are good traps for certain animals and it

is well to know how to make and use them for one may sometimes see a

good place in which to place a trap but may not have a steel trap

along. In such cases the knowledge of how to construct a practical

deadfall will be of value. It is true that many of the fur-bearing

animals are too cunning to be captured by such a contrivance but some

of the most wary fall easy victims to the snare. Some of the most

expert fox trappers use the snare in preference to the steel trap but

the number is comparatively small.

Many styles of traps have been invented and some of the most

promising styles were placed on the market but it is doubtful if any

trap will ever be designed which will equal in popularity and general

usefulness the old time jaw trap, commonly known as the "steel trap".

These traps have been improved in many ways until at present they are

almost perfect and are made in sizes and styles to meet all

requirements and all conditions of trapping.

The jaw traps possess decided advantages over all other styles of

steel or wooden traps. They are light and compact and may be moved

from place to place without inconvenience to the trapper, will

capture the most wary animals as well as the most stupid and will

work perfectly under all conditions whether set in the water or on

dry land, on the snow or on a log or stump or the side of a tree.

They may be used with or without bait and if the proper size of trap

is used and it is set in the right way it will capture almost any

animal that comes that way. What other style of trap possesses all of

these advantages?

As most of those who have never done any trapping know practically

nothing regarding the use of traps I will outline briefly the methods

usually employed for the capture of fur-bearing animals before

proceeding farther.

Most of the animals which are caught in traps are decoyed by means of

a bait,--something in the line of food which appeals to its

appetite,--so placed that in attempting to reach it the animal places

its foot in the trap. The most common way is by setting the trap in

the entrance to some natural enclosure, such as a hollow log or

stump, a hollow between trees, or a hole in the rocks, or under a

stump the bait being placed in the enclosure beyond the trap. Failing

to find a natural enclosure, the trapper constructs one, using such

material as may be found on the spot. It is advisable as a rule to

make as little disturbance as possible and to give the enclosure a

natural appearance.

It sometimes happens that an animal can not be induced to approach a

bait and in such cases the "blind set" is resorted to,--in other

words the trap is set without bait in a trail where the animal

travels or at the entrance of its den. Failing to find such a place

the trapper carefully studies the route of the animal and selects a

place where some natural or artificial obstruction will crowd it into

a certain spot where he carefully sets his trap in such a way as to

catch the animal the next time it comes along. These blind sets are

as a rule very successful and many trappers use such methods

exclusively.

In setting steel traps, great care is advised for the one who learns

to do this most neatly, leaving everything natural is, as a rule, the

most successful. One should always be certain to get the trap in the

right position for to miss catching an animal not only means its loss

for the time being but many of them will become wiser from such

experiences and their capture will be more difficult afterwards. The

trapper is wise also who gives sufficient attention to the fastening

of the trap, thus reducing the animal's chances of escape after it is

once caught.

To properly set a steel trap on dry land one should dig a "nest" for

the trap, deep enough to allow the covering to be flush with the

surroundings and just a little larger than, and of the same shape as

the trap when set. This hollow should be lined with dry leaves or

moss and the trap placed therein. To make the trap rest solidly so

that there is no danger of it being tipped over also to make the jaws

set level, the spring should be twisted around towards the jaw which

is held down by the trigger or "dog". The trap should then be covered

with some light, dry material in keeping with the surroundings, a few

dead leaves or a sheet of paper being used first to prevent the

covering from rolling under the pan and in that way prevent the trap

from springing. Instead of doing this some trappers place a bunch of

cotton or dry moss under the pan but I do not think this advisable.

[Illustration: Trap Set in Correct Position at Entrance of Den.]

In all cases when setting traps at dens, on trails or at the

entrances of enclosures, the trap should be so placed that the jaws

will be lengthwise of the animal's approach so that it will step

between the jaws and not over one of them. If the setting is reversed

the rising jaw will sometimes throw the animal's foot out of the

trap.

There are various good methods of fastening and the proper one to use

depends on the nature of the surrounding and the species of animal

that one is setting for. Water animals should be drowned as quickly

as possible after they are caught and in order to secure this result

the "sliding pole" is used. This is simply an inclined pole leading

into deep water and of a size that will enable the ring of the trap

chain to travel easily its entire length. The most common way of

using the sliding pole is to thrust the small end into the bed of the

stream and fasten the other end securely to the bank. The pole should

have a few branches near the small end to prevent the ring from

sliding off. All water animals when caught in traps plunge into deep

water immediately and the ring of the trap chain sliding down the

pole makes it impossible for the captured animal to again regain the

shore. In order to make this outfit more certain when setting for

large animals such as otters and beavers, a stone of six or eight

pounds should be tied firmly to the chain but not near enough to the

trap to interfere with the action of the swivel.

In trapping for muskrats and mink the usual practice is to simply

stake the trap the length of the chain into the deepest water

available, the weight of the trap being sufficient to hold the animal

under water.

For land animals the trap may be fastened to a "clog". This is simply

a chunk of wood, a pole, brush or stone, the object being to hamper

the animal in its movements and prevent it from getting a dead pull

on the trap and chain. In fastening to the clog the staple may be

used or the chain may be dropped through the ring so as to form a

loop which is slipped over the clog, a few snags being left stand to

prevent the chain from being drawn over the end. When setting for

bears the ring is slipped over the clog,--a pole,--and fastened with

a spike or wedge. Some trappers prefer to use a pronged iron drag and

this is especially desirable when trapping for the more cunning

animals such as the fox, coyote and wolf as the drag may be covered

without leaving much sign. A stone may be used in the same manner by

securing with wire to the end of the chain.

For the animals mentioned the traps are sometimes staked down

solidly, the stake being driven out of sight but this gives the

animal a dead pull and they will sometimes escape.

Such of the fur-bearers as are likely to escape by gnawing or

twisting off a foot may sometimes be held securely by the use of the

"spring pole" or better still, the "balance pole". The spring pole is

a small springy sapling, trimmed of its branches and planted firmly

in the ground. The trap is fastened to the small end which is drawn

down and held in that position by being hooked lightly under a

crotched stake or a link of the chain may be hooked to a headless

nail driven in the side of the stake. In theory this device works

nicely but in practice it is not found to be perfect as the wood will

lose its "spring" if kept bent for some time, especially in freezing

weather.

[Illustration: The Balance Pole.]

The balance pole is more faithful in its action. It is simply a long

slender pole fastened in a crotch or tied to the side of a sapling,

the trap being secured to the small end. It is so balanced that the

weight of the butt will not only lift the trap but the captured

animal as well. It is fastened down in the same way as the spring

pole and is released by the struggles of the animal.

In order to keep steel traps in perfect working order they should

have a certain amount of attention. Repairs will be necessary at

times and before the trapping season commences one should look them

all over and see that they are in good condition. The triggers should

be so adjusted that the pan will set level. All parts should work

freely and the trap should neither spring too easily nor too hard.

Rust on traps is not desirable and may be prevented to a great extent

by boiling the traps occasionally in a solution of evergreen boughs,

maple, willow or oak bark or walnut hulls. This will give the traps a

blue-black color and they will not rust for a considerable length of

time. New traps will not take the color very well but they should be

boiled just the same to remove the oil also the varnish with which

some manufacturers coat their traps. Some trappers smoke their traps

before setting believing that the odor of the smoke will smother that

of the metal. This however is not in my opinion a good idea as clean

iron has no odor and the smell of smoke enables the animal to locate

the trap, thus having just the opposite of the effect desired.

Others again, grease or oil the traps which is also bad for the same

reason and another thing worth considering is the fact that a greased

trap does not have as good a grip as one which has not been so

treated. For my own part I would rather have my traps red with rust

than to have them oiled, and if it is necessary to oil the joints of

a stiff working trap, use some oil having practically no odor, never

strong smelling substances such as kerosene.

As to the number of traps that one can handle, this depends on

conditions. The kind of animals that one intends to trap for, the

nature of the country, the method of setting and tending traps, the

amount of fur to be found, etc., must all be considered. The muskrat

trapper who is in a good location where traps may be set from a boat

or in the marshes where muskrat houses are plentiful as on some parts

of the Atlantic Coast, can easily handle from seventy-five to a

hundred or more traps, looking at them once a day. The marten

trappers of the Northwest sometimes use five or six hundred traps,

but the traps are not set far apart and the trapper spends a number

of days in going over the line. In the thickly settled districts

there are comparatively few who use more than five or six dozen traps

for they must be seen each day, and for beginners from two to three

dozen traps will be sufficient.

As before mentioned, steel traps are made in various sizes so that

they may be used for all animals, from the smallest to the largest.

The No. 0 is the smallest size and is intended for such small animals

as the pocket gopher, the rat and the weasel. If the spring is of

fair strength as it is in the higher grades they may also be used for

muskrat and marten. They are used extensively by the marten trappers

of the Rocky Mountain region.

The No. 1 is known as the muskrat trap and is the best size for this

animal. It is also used for mink, skunk, opossum and marten.

The No. 1 1/2 is a very popular trap as its size and strength adapt

it for general use. It is known as the mink trap, but the tendency

among trappers is to use the 1 1/2 for larger game and the No. 1 for

mink. It is the best size for skunk, and if the spring is of fair

strength, it will hold the fox, coon, fisher and lynx as well as all

smaller animals.

The No. 2, which is the smallest size of the double spring style is

known as the fox trap. It is also the best size for coon and is

sometimes used for otter especially in the North but in my opinion it

is too small for regular use on otter.

Next in order is the No. 3 which has been named the otter trap, and

it is the proper size to use for this animal. It is also used for

catching the coyote, beaver, wild cat and lynx and is a very popular

trap in the more remote sections of the country.

The No. 4 trap was originally intended for the capture of the beaver

and is the proper size for that animal. The higher grades of this are

also used to a great extent for trapping the timber wolf, also for

otter and coyote.

The best trap for wolves, however, is the 4 1/2 which was designed

especially for trapping these animals. It is considerably heavier

than the No. 4 and is fitted with a longer chain and a pronged drag.

This size is also used for taking the cougar or mountain lion.

The bear traps are known as the No. 50, the No. 5 and the No. 6. The

No. 50 is the smallest but is sufficiently strong for the black bear.

For those who prefer a larger trap for this animal, the No. 5 will

prove satisfactory, and it will also hold the grizzly, but is rather

small for that animal. The size best adapted to the capture of the

larger varieties of bears is the No. 6, which will hold almost any

living animal.

In addition to the traps mentioned, there are a number of special

styles designed to meet the demand from those trappers who desire

special traps for some certain animals. Among these may be mentioned

the clutch traps, the single spring otter traps and the traps with

offset jaws.

It should be understood that in writing the foregoing description of

traps, I had in mind the higher grades only. In the following

chapters devoted to the capture of the various animals, the proper

sizes and brands of traps to use will be given.

[Illustration: The Skunk.]

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