having totally destroyed the insects on these plants without hurting
them, I hesitated not to begin to water the whole of the plants under my
care, whenever they wanted it, all over their leaves and fruit, with
water about 85 degrees warm. This process I continued to practise for
several months, during which time I do not recollect that the
thermometer was ever below 70, and in sunshine it was raised sometimes
to upwards of 110 degrees. I continued this practice longer perhaps than
was absolutely necessary, but I was determined to destroy the whole of
the insects in the house, whether on the plants, or in the tan, or in
any part of the house; and this I certainly did accomplish effectually.
Thus, by this easy, and not unnatural, mode of management, the plants
became perfectly free of insects; they were perfectly cleansed of all
filth; they grew vigorously; and the fruit swelled fine to a good size.
After this I had several times Pine Apple plants from abroad, and out of
hot-houses at home, full of insects, which, by the means that I have,
without reserve, described, I effectually destroyed, and made the plants
grow very fast indeed.”
“If Pine Apple plants be kept in a strong vigorous growing state by
giving them plenty of heat, and water applied occasionally all over
their leaves, whether they be in frames heated with dung, or in
hot-houses heated by a fire, a few insects will do them little hurt. But
if the methods which I have given for cultivating the Pine Apple plant
be adopted, I am persuaded all sorts of injurious insects natural to
these sorts of plants will disappear on them.
“When we see human creatures lean in body for want of a sufficiency of
wholesome food, or, for want of cleanliness, lice and fleas breed upon
them; and poverty in cattle for want of food has the same effect on
them. Similar causes in vegetables has a similar effect, so that when
Pine Apple plants are in a state of poverty, for want of a sufficiency
of good earth, or of heat, or of water, insects natural to them, if
there be any of them in the hot-house, will breed rapidly on them and
hurt them. Those insects which naturally breed and live on the Pine
Apple plant, appear to delight in a dry dirty situation. Where Pine
Apples grow naturally and produce large fruit, they are not free of
insects; and though plants be free of insects, they will not grow well,
nor produce fine fruit, unless they get enough of good earth, sufficient
heat, and be watered plentifully.”
_Fruit produced._ The green, and some other sorts of Pine, Mr. M’Phail
“ripened in a shorter period of time than two years after planting,”
(_Gard. Rem._ 87.) but some large kinds he found required three seasons,
as the black Antigua, Jamaica, and Ripley. His object was to have his
fruit come in for use between May and October, for he very justly
remarks, that “the fruit of the Pine Apple, if it happen to appear ripe
in winter, will have its flavour insipid.” He therefore recommends, that
such plants as show fruit in September or October, had better be cast
away, unless there be plenty of room for them in the hot-house; in that
case they may be retained by way of experiment, and to obtain young
plants from them. (_Gard. Rem._ 98.)
SECT. VIII.
_Culture of the Pine Apple in Fifeshire, by Mr. Walter Nicol._
Mr. Nicol was from 1790 to 1800, the best grower of the Pine Apple in
Scotland; he had afterwards much experience as a constructor of
hot-houses; and extensive observation of the practice of the best
gardeners of the north.
_Form of House._ “Pineries,” he says, “are, and may be, very differently
constructed; and we find plants thriving, and plants not thriving, in
all kinds of stoves, pits, &c. The culture of Pine Apples is attended
with a heavier expense than that of any other fruit under glass;
especially if they be grown in lofty stoves, the erection of which is
very expensive, and the keeping up proportionally more so, than that of
humbler stoves, or flued pits.
“But, independently of all considerations of expense (which may not be
valued by some, provided they can obtain good fruit), Pine Apples may
certainly be produced in as great perfection, if not greater, and with
infinitely less trouble and risk, in flued pits, if properly
constructed, than in any other way. I would therefore have the Pinery
detached from the other forcing-houses, and to consist of three pits in
a range; one for crowns and suckers, one for succession, and one for
fruiting plants. The fruiting-pit to be placed in the centre, and the
other two, right and left; forming a range of a hundred feet in length;
which would give Pine Apples enough for a large family.
“The fruiting-pit to be forty feet long, and ten feet wide, over walls;
and each of the others to be thirty feet long, and nine feet wide, also
over walls. The breast-wall of the whole to be on a line, and to be
eighteen inches above ground. The back-wall of the centre one to be five
feet, and of the others, to be four and a half feet higher than the
front. The front and end flues to be separated from the bark-bed by a
three-inch cavity, and the back flues to be raised above its level.
“The furnaces may either be placed in front, or at the back, according
to conveniency; but the strength of the heat should be first exhausted
in front, and should return in the back-flues. The fruiting-pit would
require two small furnaces, in order to diffuse the heat regularly, and
keep up a proper temperature in winter; one to be placed at each end;
and either to play, first in front, and return in the back; but the
flues to be above, and not alongside of one another; as in that latter
way they would take up too much room. The under one to be considered
merely as an auxiliary flue, as it would only be wanted occasionally.
“None of these flues need be more than five or six inches wide, and nine
or ten deep. Nor need the furnaces be so large by a third, or a fourth
part, as those for large forcing-houses; because there should be proper
oil-cloth covers for the whole, as guards against severe weather, which
would be a great saving of fuel.
“The depth of the pits should be regulated so as that the average depth
of the bark-beds may be a yard below the level of the front flues; as to
that level the bark will generally settle, although made as high as
their surfaces, when new stirred up. If leaves, or a mixture of leaves
with dung, are to be used instead of bark, the pits will require to be a
foot, or half a yard deeper.
“It may be thought too much to insinuate, that those who have large
Pineries should turn them to other purposes, and erect such as are
described above. There cannot be a doubt, however, respecting the
satisfaction that would follow, if to have good fruit at an easy rate
were the object. I have given designs for no other kinds of new Pineries
these six years past, but such as these; with some variations respecting
extent, however, in order to suit different purses.”
_Soil._ Vegetable mould, strong brown loam, pigeons’ dung, and
shell-marl, are Mr. Nicol’s ingredients. “The vegetable mould used is
that from decayed tree-leaves, and those of the oak are to be preferred;
but when a sufficient quantity of them cannot be had, a mixture with
those of the ash, elm, birch, sycamore, &c. or indeed any that are not
resinous, will answer very well. In autumn, immediately as the leaves
fall, let them be gathered, and be thrown together into an heap; and let
just as much light earth be thrown over them as will prevent them from
being blown abroad by the wind. In this state let them lie till May, and
then turn them over and mix them well. They will be rendered into mould
fit for use by the next spring; but from bits of sticks, &c. being among
them, they will require to be sifted before using. Strong brown loam is
the next article. This should consist of the sward of a pasture, if
possible; which should, previous to using, be well reduced, by exposing
it a whole year to the action of the weather. Pigeon-dung, also, that
has lain at least two whole years in an heap, has been frequently
turned, and well exposed to the weather, is to be used. Likewise
shell-marl. And, lastly, sea or river gravel, which should be sifted,
and kept in a dry place; such part of it as is about the size of
marrowfat peas is to be used. This is the proportion: for crowns and
suckers, entire vegetable mould, with a little gravel at bottom, to
strike in; afterwards, three-fourths vegetable mould, and one-fourth
loam, mixed with about a twentieth part gravel, and two inches entire
gravel at bottom, till about a year old. For year-olds, and till shifted
into fruiting-pots, one-half vegetable mould, one-half loam; to which
add a twentieth part gravel, and as much shell-marl, with three inches
clean gravel at bottom. For fruiting-plants, one-half loam, a fourth
part vegetable mould, and a fourth part pigeon-dung; to which add marl
and gravel as above, and lay three or four inches of clean gravel at
bottom. The above compositions are what I formerly used for Pine-plants
with much success; and are what may be reckoned good medium soils for
the production of Pine Apples.”
_General Management._ Mr. Nicol plants his suckers in summer and autumn
as the fruit is gathered, sticking them into the front part of the
bark-bed, “where they will strike root as freely as any where. If a
large proportion of the crop come off early, the crowns and suckers may
be potted at once, and plunged into the nursing-pit; or they may be
twisted from off the stocks, and may be laid by, in a dry shed or loft
for a few days, till the other operations in the Pinery be performed,
and the nursing-pit be ready to receive them and the crowns, (collected
as the fruit have been gathered;) which, if rooted, may be potted, and
may be placed for the above time, either in a frame, or in a
forcing-house of any kind, as they will sustain no injury, though out of
the bark-bed for so short a time. Such crowns as have not struck root,
may be laid aside with the suckers.
“With respect to the time for taking off the suckers, it is when the
bottom part becomes brown; and they are then easily displaced by the
thumb, after having broken down the leaf immediately under them. But,
indeed, by the time the fruit is ripe, all suckers of the stem are fit
for taking off, though they will sustain no injury by being left on,
even for a month, but rather improve, if the stock be healthy, and if it
be well watered. Suckers that rise from the root always have fibres, and
may be taken off at any time; but, as they are tardy of fruiting, they
should not be taken into the stock, unless in a case of necessity.
“Some think it necessary to dry, or win, all crowns and suckers before
potting them, and for that purpose lay them on the shelves, &c. of the
stove for a week or ten days. By this treatment, they certainly may be
hurt, but cannot be improved, provided they have been fully matured
before being taken from off the fruit or stocks, and that these have
previously had no water for about ten days. They will succeed as well,
if planted the hour they are taken off, as if treated in any other way
whatever; and I only advise their being laid aside as above, as being a
matter of conveniency.”
In preparing the suckers and unstruck crowns for potting, he twists off
a few of the bottom leaves, and pares the end of the stump smooth with
the knife. “Then fill pots of about three or four inches diameter, and
five or six inches deep, (the less for the least, and the large for the
largest plants), with very fine, light earth, or with entire vegetable
mould of tree leaves, quite to the brim; previously placing an inch of
clean gravel in the bottom of each, and observing to lay in the mould
loosely. Thrust the large suckers down to within two inches of the
gravel, and the small ones and crowns, two inches into the mould;
firming them with the thumbs, and dressing off the mould, half an inch
below the margin of the pots. Then plunge them into the bark-bed, quite
down to, or rather below the brim, especially of the smaller pots. If
the pots be placed at the clear distance of three or four inches from
each other, according to the sizes of the plants, they will have
sufficient room to grow till next shifting.”
The temperature of the nursing-pit in January with fire heat, he keeps
as near as possible to 65° mornings and evenings; and in sunshine, on
good days, it may be allowed to rise to about 70°. In March from 70° to
80°; and after newly potting and plunging, unstruck crowns and suckers
to 80° or 85°.
To save fuel, he covers up the Pine pits when fires are used, every
evening after sunset, either with double mats, or with a thick canvas
cover, mounted on rollers. This cover he removes by sun-rise in the
morning, unless the weather be very severe; in which case he leaves it
on during the day. By the judicious use of this cover, he finds “a
considerable deal of fuel may be saved.”
As to water, he says, “nurse plants require very little, perhaps once in
eight or ten days, or even at greater intervals, if the weather be moist
and hazy. It is safer, in winter, to give too little, rather than too
much water to Pine-plants; nor should they be watered over head at this
season. They should be watered in the forenoon of a sunny day, at this
time of the year, in order that any water spilt on the bark, or in the
hearts of the plants, may be exhaled by the heat of the sun, and by an
extra quantity of air purposely admitted. This precaution, however, is
only necessary for the sake of such crowns and suckers as have been
struck late last season, and are not very well rooted; such being more
apt to damp off than others that are better established.” In summer he
supplies water regularly and plentifully once in three days; giving the
proper quantity at root, and then a dewing over the leaves. He waters
frequently with the drainings of the dunghill.
Air he admits to the nursing-pits every good day. Even in hard frost,
when the sun shines, two or three of the lights should be slipped down,
to let the rarified air escape at top. After potting unrooted offsets,
he gives no air till the heat begin to rise in the bark-bed; but as the
plants indicate their having made roots, he gives air during sunshine,
so as to keep down the thermometer to 85° or 80°.
Suckers planted in summer he shifts or re-pots in the following March.
He says, “Let them be shaked out entirely; the balls be quite reduced;
the roots be trimmed of all straggling and decayed fibres; and let them
be replaced in the same, or in similar pots. The proper size of pots,
however, in which to put crowns and suckers struck last season, is about
four inches inside diameter at top, and six inches deep. A little clean
gravel should be laid at the bottom of each pot, in order to drain off
extra moisture; and this should be observed in the potting of
Pine-plants of all sorts. I have generally observed, that if the bark
heat be not violent, the plants will push very strong fibres into this
stratum of gravel, in which they seem to delight. I therefore generally
make it two inches thick in small pots, and three or four in larger
ones, less or more, according to their size. From the time I first
adopted this mode of potting, I hardly ever had an instance of an
unhealthy plant; and this very particular, together with that of keeping
the plants always in a mild bottom-heat, is of greater importance in the
culture of Pines, than all the other rules that have been given
respecting them, out of the ordinary way. The roots of Pines seem to
delight in gravel; and I have been careful to introduce it into the
mould for plants of all ages. I generally used small sea-gravel, in
which was a considerable proportion of shells, or chips of shells, with
other particles of a porous nature; and I have uniformly observed the
finest fibres cling to these, and often insinuate themselves through the
pores, or embrace the rougher particles. Therefore, if sea gravel can be
obtained, prefer it; and next, river gravel; but avoid earthy pit
gravel, and rather use sharp sand, or a mixture of pounded-stone, chips,
and brick-bats. The plants being re-potted, plunge them in the bark-bed
again, quite down to the rims of the pots, keeping them perfectly level.
Eight or nine inches from centre to centre will be distance sufficient.
When they are all placed, give a little aired water, to settle the earth
about their roots. This need not be repeated till the heat in the bed
rise to the pots, after which, as the plants will now begin to grow
freely, they must be watered at the root once in four or five days; and
they may have a dewing over head, from the fine rose of a watering-pot,
occasionally, if the weather be fine.”
In May, Nicol again shifts, but the plants are not to be shaked out at
this time, but are to be shifted, balls entire, into pots of about six
inches diameter, and eight inches deep. “If the roots be anywise matted
at bottom, or at the sides, they must be carefully singled out; and in
potting, be sure that there be no cavity left between the ball and the
sides of the new pot. In order the more effectually to prevent which,
use a small, blunt-pointed, somewhat wedge-shaped, stick, to trindle in
the mould with; observing that it be in a dry state, and be sifted fine;
and also to shake the pot well, (potting on a bench or table), the
better to settle the earth about the ball. Pots of this size should be
filled to within half an inch of their brims, (the balls being covered
about an inch with fresh earth), as the whole will settle about as much,
and so leave a full inch for holding water, which is enough. In
preparing the plants for potting, observe to twist off a few of the
bottom leaves, as they always put out fine roots from the lower part of
the stem. Also, before letting the plant out of hand, trim off the
points of any leaves that may have been bruised or anywise injured in
the shifting. Replunge the pots to the brim, as before, observing to
keep them quite level, at the distance of fifteen inches from centre to
centre of the plants on a medium; then give a little water, which need
not be repeated till the heat rise to the pots.”
In November, he shifts such others whose roots have filled their pots,
and have become anywise matted. “Examine any you suspect to be so, and
let them be shifted into pots of the next size immediately above those
they are in; keeping the balls entire, and only singling out the netted
fibres at bottom. The rest should be trimmed of any dead leaves at
bottom of their stems, and should have a little of the old mould taken
from off the surface of the pots; which replace with fresh earth;
filling the pots fuller than usual, as but little water will be required
till next shifting time in the spring. The whole should then be replaced
in the bark-bed as before, and should be plunged quite to the rims of
the pots; giving a little water to settle the earth about their roots,
which need not be repeated till the heat rise in the bed.”
Plants intended to fruit in the succeeding year, are shifted finally in
the August of the year preceding. The plants are again looked over in
the February following, and top dressed; but such as are unhealthy,
feeble, and do not stand firm in their pots, he shakes out of their
balls entirely, and re-pots in the same, or in smaller pots. “Any
plants,” he says, “that have already started into fruit, should also be
shaken out, and be fresh potted, as above; which, by the check they
receive, will keep them back to a better season of ripening, and by the
force of fresh earth, make them swell their fruit larger than they
otherwise would have done. I have thus new-potted plants, even in
flower, with very much success, and have swelled the fruit to a size far
beyond my expectations; of which fact any one may easily satisfy
himself, by fresh-potting a few plants, and comparing their progress
with others treated in the ordinary way. Let the plants be re-plunged to
the brim as before, keeping the pots quite level. If the plants be
full-sized, and strong, they will require to be set at about twenty
inches apart from centre to centre, on a medium. But they should be
sorted; the smallest placed in front, and the largest at back, as in
arranging plants on a stage, that they may have an equal share of sun
and light. As soon as re-placed in the bark-bed, let them have a little
water, to settle the earth about their roots.” In May he again
top-dresses, “reducing an inch or two of the earth from off the surface,
and adding some fresh mould, which will invigorate the plants, cause
them to push surface radicles, and so keep them the more firm and
steady. This needs not be done, however, to plants whose fruit are
nearly ripe; but chiefly to healthy plants new shown in flower, past the
flower, or with the fruit about half grown. And with respect to any that
are unhealthy, and whose fruit are less than half grown, do not hesitate
to shift them, shaking them out, trimming their roots, and retaining
only healthy fibres. This is a very great improvement in the culture of
Pines, which I formerly practised, have since advised, and have seen
followed with much success.”
The temperature of the fruiting-pit is kept at the same degree as that
of the succession department in mid-winter. This is from 60° to 65°; but
as spring approaches, he rises gradually to 75°, but not allowing the
thermometer to pass 80°. From 72° to 75° is his temperature for March
and April. In May, June, July, and August, he requires 75° mornings and
evenings, and 80° or 85° at noon. In September, after fire-heat becomes
necessary, he keeps as nearly to 65° as possible, and in sunshine, by
the free admission of air, to about 70° or 72°. In October, November,
and December, he lowers the temperature to 60° mornings and evenings,
and 65° in sunshine.
Air is admitted at all seasons in fine sunshine weather, and freely, as
the fruit approaches to maturity, in order to enhance its flavour.
He gives water seldom in January, and not oftener than once in six or
eight days in February. In March, “water may given oftener than
heretofore advised, and also in larger quantities; generally a moderate
watering at root once in three or four days, and a dewing over head
occasionally, to refresh the leaves, and keep them clean from dust. From
the time the plants are out of flower, and the fruit begins to swell,
water must be applied in a very liberal manner once in two or three
days, always giving the necessary quantity at root, and then a dewing
over head. Watering to this extent, however, if the fruit be not in too
forward a state, will seldom be necessary before the end of the month,
or till April.” In April, “water must be given in a plentiful manner,
once in two or three days, in order the better to swell off the fruit.
The roots have now much to do in sustaining it, and also the suckers,
which will be fast advancing in growth. For this reason, water
frequently with dunghill-drainings, or with water of dung, soaked on
purpose; and after each watering at root, give a dewing over the leaves,
as directed above.” In May, June, and July, “from the time the fruit
begin to colour, however, begin also to lessen the quantity of water;
and towards its being fit for cutting, withhold water entirely, else the
flavour will be very much deteriorated. I shall here observe, with
respect to the different kinds of Pines, that the Queen and the
Sugar-loaf sorts require considerably more water than the King or
Havannah, and the Antigua. The difference in the manner of watering
should be more particularly attended to as the fruit approach to
maturity; as the latter-named kinds are naturally more juicy and watery
than the former.” In August, the plants that have done fruiting being
removed, the succession stock which replace them are to be watered
freely at root, and occasionally dewed over top. In October and
November, the waterings are gradually lessened; and in December, once in
eight, ten, or twelve days, will be sufficient.
_Insects._ “If Pine plants,” Nicol observes, “by proper culture, be kept
healthy and vigorous, _insects will not annoy, but leave them_. This
fact I have repeatedly proved, both with respect to the Pine, and to
other plants that are liable to be affected with the coccus, (the only
insect that materially injures the Pine), which seems to delight in
disease and decay, as flies do in carrion.