admitted to a brick vault, over which is the bed of tan or earth; this
is surrounded by a path and smoke-flues, exactly as in the common form
of hot-house.
He also gives a plan of a furnace for burning lime as well as heating
hot-houses, as erected at Billing, in Northamptonshire, and at Lady E.
Ponsonby’s, at Bishop’s Court, in Ireland; and, subsequently, at various
other places in that country.
[Illustration: 8]
In these _kiln-furnaces_, (fig. 8.) the heat, after passing through the
limestone in the kiln or crucible (_a_), enters the flue (_e_), and
passes through it in the usual manner. The grate on which the fuel burns
(_d_) is contrived to draw out by means of a grooved frame (_c_), as
soon as the lime in the crucible is burned, which then falls into the
ash-pit (_b_), and is removed.
_Soil._ Alter numerous experiments made with mixtures, of cow, deer,
sheep, pigeon, hen, and rotten stable dung, with soot, and other
manures, in various proportions, with fresh pasture-soil of different
qualities, he says, I can venture to recommend the following:
In the month of April or May, let the sward or turf of a pasture, where
the soil is a strong rich loam, and of a reddish colour, be pared off,
not more than two inches thick: let it then be carried to the pens in
sheep-pastures, where sheep are frequently put for the purpose of
dressing, which places should be cleared of stones, &c. and made smooth;
then let the turf be laid, with the grass-side downwards, and only one
course thick; here it may continue two, three, or more months, during
which time it should be turned with a spade once or twice, according as
the pen is more or less frequented by the above animals; who, with their
urine and dung, will enrich the turf to a great degree, and their feet
will reduce it, and prevent any weeds from growing.
After the turf has lain a sufficient time, it should be brought to a
convenient place, and laid in a heap for at least six months, (if a
twelvemonth it will be the better,) being frequently turned during that
time; and after being made pretty fine with a spade, but not screened,
it will be fit for use.
In places where the above mode cannot be adopted, the mixture may be
made by putting a quantity of sheep’s dung (or deer’s dung, if it can
be got) and turf together. But here it must be observed, that the dung
should be collected from the pastures when newly fallen; also, that a
larger proportion should be added, making an allowance for the want of
urine.
1. Three wheelbarrows of the above reduced sward or soil; one barrow of
vegetable mould from decayed oak-leaves, or leaves of other deciduous
trees, and half a barrow of coarse sand, make a compost-mould for
_Crowns_, _Suckers_, and _Young Plants_.
2. Three wheelbarrows of swarth, reduced as above, two barrows of
vegetable mould, one barrow of coarse sand, and one-fourth of a barrow
of soot, make a compost-mould for _fruiting plants_.
The above composts should be made some months before they are wanted,
and very frequently turned during that time, that the different mixtures
may get well and uniformly incorporated.
It is observable, that in hot-houses, where Pine-plants are put in a
light soil, the young plants frequently go into fruit the first season,
and are then what gardeners term _runners_; on the contrary, where
plants are put in a strong rich soil, they will continue to grow, and
not fruit even at a proper season: therefore, from the nature of the
soil from whence the sward was taken, the quantity of sand used must be
proportioned; when the loam is not strong, sand will be unnecessary in
the compost for young plants.
I conceive that the _urine_ of sheep contains a greater quantity of
mucilage, or oleaginous matter, than the _dung_ of those animals: and
this opinion is founded upon observations made in sheep-pastures; where,
during the summer months, the effects of both are easily distinguished.
I also presume that the reduced sward in the pens receives a very
considerable degree of fertility from the feet of the sheep.
Where oak-leaves are not used in hot-houses instead of bark, the
vegetable-mould may be made by laying a quantity of them together, in a
heap sufficiently large to ferment, as soon as they fall from the trees:
they should be covered for some time at first, to prevent the upper
leaves from being blown away. The heap should afterwards be frequently
turned, and kept clean from weeds: the leaves will be two years before
they are sufficiently reduced to be fit for use.
I shall just observe, that it will be proper to keep the different heaps
of compost at all times clean from weeds, to turn them frequently, and
to round them up in long rainy seasons. If covered, the better: but they
should be spread abroad in continued frosts, and in fine weather.
_General Management._ The pots he recommends are:
_Inches diameter _Inches_
at the top._ _deep._
1. Pots for full-sized crowns
and suckers 6 5½
2. Pots for plants to fruit the
following season when
shifted in March 8½ 7
3. Pots for fruiting plants 11½ 10
I wish it to be understood that the above dimensions are only used for
full-sized plants, at their different periods: plants below the standard
must have less-sized pots in proportion.
Sometimes, he observes, hot-beds are made for the suckers. When that is
the case, they should be prepared at least fourteen days before the
suckers are taken off, in order that the violence of the heat may be
over: after the bed has been made ten days, it should be levelled, and
covered eight or ten inches with tan; and after this has lain four or
five days, in case the heat of the bed should not be violent, the pots
may be plunged into it.
In respect of temperature and water, he advises only a moderate heat,
and not much water, during the winter months; but an increase of both,
accompanied with more air, as the season advances.
There is nothing, he says, so prejudicial to the Pine-apple plant,
(insects and an over-heat of the tan excepted,) as forcing them to grow
by making large fires, and keeping the hot-house warm at an improper
season; which is injudiciously done in many hot-houses. It is
inconsistent with reason, and against nature, to force a tropical plant
in this climate in a cold dark season, such as generally happens here in
the months of November and December; and plants so treated will in time
show the injury done them: if large plants for fruiting, they generally
show very small fruit-buds with weak stems; and, if small plants, they
seldom make much progress in the beginning of the next summer.
As the length of the days, and power of the sun increases, the plants
will begin to grow, and from that time it will be absolutely necessary
to keep them in a regular growing state; for if young plants receive a
check afterwards, it generally causes many of them to go into fruit.
From the time they begin to grow they will demand a little water: once
in a week or ten days, as the weather may prove more or less favourable,
will be sufficient till the middle of March, which is the most eligible
season to shift them in their pots. If that work is done sooner, it will
prevent the plants from striking freely; and if deferred longer, it will
check them in their summer’s growth.
In this shifting I always shake off the whole of the ball of earth, and
cut off all the roots that are of a black colour, carefully preserving
such only as are white and strong. I then put such plants as are
intended to fruit the next season into second-sized pots with fresh
mould entire.
The bed at this time should be renewed with a little fresh tan, in order
to promote its heating, and the pots plunged therein immediately. The
hot-house should be kept pretty warm till the heat of the tan begins to
arise, as it will be the means of causing the plants to strike both
sooner and stronger. As soon as the heat of the bed begins to arise, it
will be proper to give the plants a sprinkling of water over their
leaves; and as soon as they are perceived to grow, they will require a
little water once a week for a short time, and afterwards twice a week
till the next time of shifting them in their pots.
During the summer months give the plants plenty of air whenever the
weather is warm, and water properly, as has been described: let the pots
be kept in a regular constant heat, and clean from weeds; but above all,
avoid an over-heat of the tan. Some persons plunge a thermometer in the
tan, with the ball of its tube as deep as the bottom of the Pine-pots;
and by repeated observations, a point is fixed for the spirits in the
part of the tube above the surface of the tan, to show when the pots
should be raised. Whether the above, or the putting _watch-sticks_ in
the tan (which is the most common method) is practised, too much
attention cannot be had whenever there is the appearance of too violent
a heat in the tan.
If the above directions are strictly attended to, the plants will be
grown to a large size by the beginning of August; when they should be
shifted into the largest-sized fruiting-pots, with their roots and balls
entire.
But it will be proper here to observe, that in some hot-houses it is
found difficult to get plants of the Antigua and Sugar-loaf kinds to
fruit at a proper age; and, in that case, I advise the shaving off the
roots on the outside, and reducing the balls of _them_ at this shifting.
A greater proportion of sand should also be added to the compost, which
will be the means of bringing them into a fruiting state at a proper
season.
The disproportion of the second-sized and fruiting-pots is so great, as
to admit of a good quantity of fresh mould at this shifting, which is
absolutely necessary to support the plants till their fruit becomes
ripe: it also affords an opportunity of performing the operation of
shifting the plants without injuring their roots. As there will be a
large space between the ball and the side of the pot, the mould may be
put round the ball with great ease; whereas, when plants are shifted
into pots only a small size larger than those from whence they were
taken, they are generally much injured by the operation of shifting:
besides, even with the greatest care, there will frequently be spaces
left hollow between the ball and the side of the pot.
A little fresh tan should be added, and the bed forked up, but not to
the bottom of the pit, as the tan is liable to heat violently at this
season of the year; of which when there is the least appearance, the
pots should be raised immediately. The delay of doing it one day may be
attended with very bad consequences.
The plants will continue to grow very fast this and the following month,
and should therefore be watered pretty plentifully, at least twice a
week; and, in the summer waterings, it should be observed, that it will
be of great service to the plants to be watered once a fortnight all
over their leaves. If the month of October be wet and cold, the plants
should not be watered above twice in that month; but if fine and clear,
once a week: and here ends the watering of the fruiting plants for the
season. I never give them any water in the months of November and
December; and during that time I keep the hot-house in a cold state, but
a bottom heat is always required; therefore the tan should have been
renewed, and the old part of it screened about the end of October or
beginning of November: from which time the bed will generally retain a
moderate warmth till the beginning of January, when the tan should again
be renewed. From that time the hot-house should be kept a few degrees
warmer; and, as soon as the tan begins to ferment, the plants may have a
little water given them.
In this month (January) some of the plants will appear set for fruiting,
which may be distinguished by the short leaves in their centres; and
from that time they should be moderately watered (till the middle of
March) and the hot-house should be kept pretty warm; a little air
should, however, be admitted, whenever the weather will permit.
About the middle of March it will be proper to renew the tan-bed, and,
at the same time, the plants should be divested of a few of their bottom
leaves; the mould on the top of the pots should be taken off as deep as
can be done without injuring the roots, and the pots filled up with
fresh compost-earth, which will add to the vigour of the plants, as well
as give a neatness to the whole when finished.
It is very injurious to the plants, and greatly retards the swelling of
the fruit, to remove them after this season; therefore, in case the heat
of the bed should decline, a fresh heat may be got without moving the
plants, by taking out the tan betwixt the pots as deep as possible, and
filling that space up with fresh tan.--This method is practised by some
even at an earlier season.
The plants at this season will demand a kind, lively bottom heat; and
whenever the weather will permit, a great quantity of air should be
admitted into the hot-house, the want of a due proportion of which would
cause the stems of the fruit to draw themselves weak, and grow tall;
after which the fruit never swells kindly.
As the fruit and suckers begin to advance in size, the plants will
require plenty of water to support them, which may be given them at
least twice, and sometimes three times a week; but too much should not
be given them at one time; it is better to give them less at a time, and
oftener.
Sticks should be provided to support the fruit before it is grown too
large; and, in tying them, care should be taken to leave bandage-room
sufficient, making allowance for the swelling of the fruit.
When the suckers are grown to about one foot in length, they should be
taken off in the same manner that has been described; and from that time
the fruit will swell very fast. As soon as the fruit appears full
swelled, the watering such plants as produce them should cease: but it
is too general a practice (in order to have the fruit as large as can be
got) to continue the watering too long; which causes the fruit to be
filled with an insipid, watery, and ill-flavoured juice.
It is easy to know when the Pine becomes ripe by its yellow colour; yet
they do not all change in the same manner, but most generally begin at
the lower part of the fruit. Such fruit should not be cut till the upper
part also begins to change, which sometimes will be many days after,
especially in the Sugar-loaf kinds. Sometimes the fruit will first begin
to change in the middle, which is a certain indication of its being
ripe: such fruit should be cut immediately.
Having thus laid down the culture of the Pine-apple plant, whether
raised from seed, by crowns, or suckers, to its final perfection in the
fruit, I shall now subjoin some hints and observations; most of which, I
hope, will be of use.
In treating of the culture of the Pine-apple plant, some persons have
recommended the shifting of the plants, from first to last, with their
balls entire; also the shifting of them oftener than I have here
recommended. These methods I disapprove, for the following reasons:
First, it is observable that the Pine-plant begins to make its roots at
the very bottom of the stem; and, as the plant increases in size, fresh
roots are produced from the stem, still higher and higher, and the
bottom roots die in proportion: so that, if a plant in the greatest
vigour be turned out of its pot as soon as the fruit is cut, there will
be found at the bottom a part of the stem, several inches in length,
naked, destitute of roots, and smooth. Now, according to the above
method, the whole of the roots which the plant produces being permitted
to remain on the stem to the last, the old roots decay and turn mouldy,
to the great detriment of those afterwards produced.
Secondly, the first ball, which remains with the plant full two years,
by length of time will become hard, cloddy, and exhausted of its
nourishment, and must therefore prevent the roots afterwards produced
from growing with that freedom and vigour which they would do in fresher
and better mould.
Thirdly, the old ball continually remaining after the frequent
shiftings, it will be too large, when put into the fruiting-pot, to
admit of a sufficient quantity of fresh mould to support the plant till
its fruit becomes ripe, which is generally a whole year from the last
time of shifting.
It is an object of emulation amongst gardeners to try to excel their
neighbours in the size of their Pines. In order to produce very large
fruit, I recommend the following method, which I have often practised
with great success.
In the month of April or May, it is easy to distinguish, in a stove of
Pines, which plants promise to produce the best fruit: this is not
always the case with the largest. A few of the most promising being
marked, a small iron rod, made with a sharp angular point, may be thrust
down the centre of the sucker; which, being turned two or three times
round, will drill out the centre, and prevent its growing. This must be
performed on all the suckers as fast as they appear. Thus the plant
being plentifully supplied with water, and having nothing to support but
the fruit, will sometimes grow amazingly large. But this method should
not be practised on too many plants, as it is attended with the entire
loss of all the suckers.
It being a practice with some to fruit the Pine by setting the _pot_ in
water; while others produce the fruit by setting the _plant_ only in
water, (in a similar manner to what is often practised with Hyacinths
and other bulbous roots,) the passing over these methods in silence may,
by some, be deemed an omission: but as neither of these methods can be
reduced to practice with any kind of success, except on fruiting plants,
and just in the hot summer months, when the situation of the plant ought
to be very near to the glass, they do not seem calculated for general
practice.
However, as some persons are inclined to suppose that Pines raised by
these methods are generally of superior quality, I shall just beg to
say, that the first method, of setting the _pot_ in water, is greatly to
be preferred, and that the best time for adopting it is immediately
after the plants have shown fruit in the spring.
Mr. Speechly is minute in his directions as to air, water, the use of
leaves instead of bark, the application of fire, heat, &c.; but as all
these instructions are more to be considered as applicable to the
general management of the hot-house, than the particular treatment of
the Pine-apple, we do not think it advisable to trouble the reader with
their perusal.
[Illustration: 9]
_Insects._ Those which more immediately infest the Pine, were first
described in Speechly’s book. They are all species or varieties of the
Linnean order Hemiptera, and genus Coccus. The first is the _brown
turtle bug_, _Coccus hesperidum_ (_Fig. 9._) The female has at first the
appearance of a flat scale (_a_); afterwards, when depositing its eggs,
it becomes fixed and turgid (_b_); these eggs (_c_) are hatched under
the mother, who soon afterwards dies; the young insects, seen under a
magnifier, appear like turtles in miniature (_d_). Only the males,
(_e_), which are few in proportion to the females, have wings; these
devour nothing, and having performed the office of impregnation, die.
The _white scaly bug_, _C. hesp. var._ α (_f_ to _l_) bears a
considerable resemblance to the above; but the scale (_f_) is somewhat
smaller; the colour is white, and the males or flies (_l_) not so large
as those of the brown.
The _white mealy crimson-tinged bug_, _C. hesp. var._ ϐ (_n_ and _m_)
differs from the former in being larger and crimson-coloured. Speechly
considers it as viviparous. This and the former species are much the
most pernicious.
Mr. Speechly’s mode of destroying these and other insects, being much
too elaborate for modern practice, it would be a waste of time to repeat
his processes. Simple modes are always the most effectual, and nothing
can be more so than M’Phail’s mode of applying the steam of water; or
Baldwin’s, that of horse-dung.
_Fruit produced._ Mr. Speechly does not seem to have had a fixed object
as to the production of fruit, unless it was to have it good. Some
cultivators, as Justice, aim at having all the fruit ripe at that season
when they will attain the greatest size and most flavour, viz. in August
and September; others aim at having some weekly throughout the year. It
would appear that the former was Speechly’s object, and that he did not
contemplate the other as now generally practised. “Large fruiting
plants,” he says, “will sometimes show their fruit in the months of
August and September, but these are generally thought of no value, and,
consequently, thrown away. To prevent this, I frequently take such
plants out of the hot-house as soon as their fruit begin to appear. I
then set them in a shed or out-house for five or six weeks; at the
expiration of which time I pot them as in the month of March, after
shaking off their balls. After this I plunge them into the tan.”
What was the common weight of the Queen Pines produced at Welbeck, he
does not inform us; but a fruit of the New Providence, produced in the
gardens at Welbeck in 1794, weighed 5¼ lb., or 84 oz. He generally
fruited the Queen Pine in the third season, being under two years of
time; and the Providence and Antigua in the fourth season.
SECT. VII.
_Culture of the Pine Apple by James M’Phail, gardener to the late
Earl of Liverpool, at Addiscombe, in Surrey, from 1788 to 1808._
Mr. M’Phail, when in practice, was reckoned one of the first growers of
the Pine Apple in England; he grew the plants, and also fruited them
chiefly in pits; the pots plunged in bark, and the bark inclosed by a
perforated wall of his invention, and heated by linings of dung. He also
grew them in larger buildings.
_Form of House._ No great consequence is attached to the construction of
the house by this gardener. Where Pines are to be grown in a hot-house
along with vines in Speechly’s manner, he says, “I think a good method
is to make it into one or more divisions of about forty feet long,
sixteen feet wide;” the back wall thirteen feet, and the front wall nine
feet, the upper four feet being composed of sliding sashes. The slope in
the roof will, by these dimensions, be four feet, or about three inches
to a foot. The pit is to be surrounded by a path, which behind will be
four feet higher than in front, and, consequently, the end paths must
have steps. The fire-place being placed in the back wall, and supplied
from the shed behind, the flue should be carried round about the inside,
stretching from the fire-place across the end and along between the path
and the front wall, leaving a cavity of four or five inches wide between
the flue and the wall, to admit the heat to rise freely, and to prevent
the roots and stems of the vines planted in the border against the front
wall from being too much heated. At that end of the division farthest
from the fire, after going across the house under the back path, the
flue must rise above the path, and go along close against the back wall
communicating with the chimney, which stands at the end corner of the
wall just above the fire-place. The flue from the fire-place along the
front wall to the opposite end of the house, is to be made nearly three
feet deep, seven inches wide, and when it riseth above the back side
path against the back wall to the chimney, it should be about three feet
six inches deep of brick, on edge two inches thick, besides the
plastering, and covered with inch thick tiles closely joined with fine
mortar to prevent the smoke from getting into the house among the
plants. The mouths of the fire-places should be about sixteen inches
wide, twelve inches deep, and the doors and their posts may be made of
cast iron. The grates should be thirty inches long, and their bars of
uncast iron made to take out at will. Some have the fire-places wholly
of cast iron, one or more inches thick, in form of a square funnel about
three feet in length. This appears to be a good method, because they
keep in repair several years, whereas the sides of the fire-places built
of brick generally require repairing yearly.