CHAPTER XXIX.

READING.

Geographical Position and History of Reading.--Manufacturing

Interests.--Population, Streets, Churches and Public

Buildings.--Boating on the Schuylkill.--White Spot and the

View from its Summit.--Other Pleasure Resorts.--Decoration

Day.--Wealth Created by Industry.

Reading, the seat of Justice of Berks County, Pennsylvania, is

beautifully situated near the junction of the Tulpehocken with the

Schuylkill River, and is midway between Philadelphia and Harrisburg, on

the Philadelphia and Reading Railroad. It was named after the ancient

borough of Reading, a prominent market town of Berkshire, England, which

it is said to resemble in some of its geographical surroundings.

Attention was first called to Reading in the fall of 1748, by the agents

of Richard and Thomas Penn, who represented it as "a new town with great

natural advantages, and destined to become a prosperous place." It was

incorporated as a borough in 1783, and as a city in 1847. The original

settlers were principally Germans, who gave character to the town, both

in language and customs. For many years the German tongue was almost

exclusively spoken, and it is still used in social intercourse and

religious worship by more than one-half the present population.

The manufacturing interests of Reading are second to no city of like

population in the United States; while it is the third city in

Pennsylvania in its manufactures, Pittsburg and Philadelphia alone

exceeding it. Among these manufactures the working of iron holds the

first rank. Much of the ore is obtained from Penn's Mountain, on the

east of the town. Rolling mills, machine shops, car shops, furnaces,

foundries, cotton mills and hat factories, from their number and extent,

establish beyond question the claim of Reading to be considered one of

the first manufacturing towns of America. The shops of the Philadelphia

and Reading Railroad alone employ two thousand men. From an early hour

in the morning the eastern bank of the Schuylkill rings out the

discordant music of numberless factories, betokening the enterprise of

her productive industries.

Reading has, at the present time, a population numbering not far from

fifty thousand. It is delightfully situated on an elevated and ascending

plain, which rises to the eastward into Penn's Mountain, and to the

southward into the Neversink Mountain. The city is abundantly supplied

with pure water, by streams flowing from these mountains. It is

surrounded by a rich farming country, which looks to it for supplies.

The streets cross each other at right angles, and the chief hotels and

stores are built around Penn's Square, which occupies the centre of the

city. It contains thirty-one churches, most prominent among which is

Trinity, German Lutheran, an antique building with a spire two hundred

and ten feet in height. Christ Church, Episcopal, is a handsome Gothic

edifice of more recent date, and with a spire nearly as high. The Grand

Opera House and Mishler's Academy of Music furnish amusements for the

pleasure-seekers of the city.

The Schuylkill River is one of the most charmingly picturesque in

America. Taking its rise among the rocky heights of the Blue Ridge,

when it reaches Reading it has left all the ruggedness of the mountain

region behind, and flows between gently sloping banks, which, though

sometimes rising in the background to considerable elevations, never

lose their softness of outline and their pastoral beauty. One evening we

strolled down to this river, and took a most delightful boat ride from

the Lancaster bridge to the dam opposite the White House and Neversink.

Two boats were placed at the disposal of our party. It was a lovely May

evening, the air soft and warm, yet with all the freshness of spring. We

glided down the stream, the trees upon the banks overhanging the water,

and catching reflections of themselves in its depths. Our downward

progress was easy and pleasant. The current aided our efforts, while the

tranquil waters, rippled only by a passing boat, offered no resistance

to us in our course. When we turned and headed up stream, we found it

quite another matter. Then we had to bring all our energies and wills to

aid us in the labor of rowing. This is something that a man is apt to

discover many times in his life, that, in both material and moral

matters, it is easier to float with the current than to make headway

against it.

A call from Mr. W. H. Zeller, of the Reading _Eagle_, paid me early one

day, before the sun was up, was an indication that that gentleman was

ready to pilot me to "White Spot," the famous resort of Reading.

Starting as soon as possible, we walked up Franklin street, crossed

Perkiomen avenue, and took a "bee line" for our destination. Up and up

and up we walked, ran and jumped, over gulches and stones, and from log

to log, halting occasionally for breath, and to discuss the city and

landscape at our feet. It was but half-past five o'clock when we reached

the goal of our walk. Taking in a view from its elevated heights, I felt

that my visit to Reading would have given me a very indefinite idea of

its natural beauties, had I not seen it from this point. White Spot is

upon Penn's Mountain, one thousand feet above the river. I would but

mislead the imagination of the reader, were I to attempt to convey a

faithful impression of the magnificent panorama which, for a while,

almost bewildered me. But let him imagine, if he can, a vast girdle of

far-off, misty, blue hills, faintly defined by the horizon; against them

to the north and west jut rows of towering but withal gently sloping

mountains, purple, black, or darkly blue, just as each drifting cloud

shadows them; within these encircling hills and mountains scatter the

loveliest landscape features of which the human mind can conceive; green

meadows, wooded hills, enchanting groves, dotted here and there with the

most charming irregularity; farmhouses and farms, in themselves a little

Arcadia; roads diverging from a common centre, and winding about until

in the distance they look like the tiny trail which a child's stick

makes in the sand; a clear, silvery river, looking in the sunshine like

liquid light, reproducing on its mirrored surface the wonderful beauty

which clothes either bank, studded with green isles that "blossom as the

rose," spanned by splendid bridges as delicate in their appearance as

lace work or filigree, yet supporting thousands of tons daily; in the

heart of all a city, whose factories, furnaces, churches, majestic

public buildings, handsome private residences, and attractive suburbs

betoken prosperity, intelligence, culture, wealth and constant

improvement; over the whole throw that peculiar _couleur de rose_ with

which the heart in its happiest moments paints all it loves, and he will

have a faint conception of the aspect of Reading and its surroundings as

seen from White Spot.

After resting on the summit, and taking in, to the full, this

magnificent view, we returned to the city by the way of Mineral Spring,

another delightful resort, which lies surrounded by charming natural

beauties, about a mile and a half east of Reading. White House Hotel, a

mile and a half to the southeast, on the Neversink Mountain, three

hundred feet above the river, is still another favorite visiting place,

from which a fine view of the city and surrounding country may be

obtained, though not equal to that of White Spot.

I was particularly fortunate in finding myself still in Reading on

Decoration Day, that day which has become a national holiday, and is

universally observed throughout the northern States. The occurrence of

this anniversary is hailed by the "Boys in Blue" as affording a blessed

opportunity for doing honor to their dead comrades, and renewing their

devotion to the flag which they followed through a four years' war for

the preservation of the Union. Reading manifested her patriotism by a

parade of all her civic and military organizations, and by invitation I

was permitted to participate in the decoration exercises, at the Charles

Evans Cemetery. The people of Reading are truly loyal, as industrious

and order-loving people are sure to be. The perpetuation of the Union

means to them the protection of their homes and the encouragement of

their industries.

Although the manufacturing interests of Philadelphia and Pittsburg are

exceedingly large--those of the latter without parallel on the

continent, if, in the world--a visit to Reading is, nevertheless,

desirable, for one who would gain a comprehensive idea of the industries

of Pennsylvania. The city is not a large one, but it is almost wholly a

city of workers. With the great coal and iron regions of the State at

its back, their products brought to it by river, railroad and canal, its

manufacturing enterprises are multiplied in numbers, and are almost

Cyclopean in their proportions. Here the brawn of the country, with

giant strength united with surprising skill, hammers and fashions the

various devices of an advanced civilization, which its brain has already

imagined and planned. Here wealth is created by the sturdy strokes of

industry, and the permanent prosperity of the State secured.

Peculiarities of American Cities · 第 29 / 39 章