CHAPTER XXIII.

OTTAWA.

Ottawa, the seat of the Canadian Government.--History.--

Population.--Geographical Position.--Scenery.--Chaudiere

Falls.--Rideau Falls.--Ottawa River.--Lumber Business.--

Manufactures.--Steamboat and Railway Communications.--Moore's

Canadian Boat Song.--Description of the City.--Churches,

Nunneries, and Charitable Institutions.--Government Buildings.--

Rideau Hall.--Princess Louise and Marquis of Lorne.--Ottawa's

Proud Boast.

Ottawa was, in 1858, selected by Queen Victoria as the seat of the

Canadian Government. When, in 1867, the British North American

Possessions were reconstructed into the Dominion of Canada, Ottawa

continued to be the Capital city. It was originally called Bytown, after

Colonel By, of the Royal Engineers, who was, in 1827, commissioned to

construct the Rideau Canal, and who laid out the town. In 1854 it was

incorporated as a city, and its name changed to Ottawa, from the river

upon which it stands. Since that time it has increased rapidly in

population and importance, and has at the present time not far from

twenty-five thousand inhabitants. It is situated on the south bank of

the Ottawa River, at the mouth of the Rideau, one hundred and twenty-six

miles above Montreal. The scenery around it is most magnificent, and is

scarcely surpassed by any in Canada. At the west end of the city the

Ottawa rushes, in a magnificent cataract, over a ragged ledge, two

hundred feet wide and forty feet high, in what is known as the Chaudiere

Falls. Chaudiere signifies caldron, and in the seething caldron of

waters at the base of the falls a sounding line three hundred feet in

length has not touched bottom. Immediately below the falls is a

suspension bridge, from which a most satisfactory view can be obtained.

At the northeast end of the city the Rideau tumbles, in two cataracts,

into the Ottawa. These cataracts are very picturesque, but are exceeded

in grandeur by the Chaudiere. The Des Chenes Rapids, having a fall of

nine feet, are found about eight miles above Ottawa.

The Ottawa River is, next to the St. Lawrence, the largest stream in

Canada. Rising in the range of mountains which forms the watershed

between Hudson Bay and the great lakes, it runs in a southeasterly

direction for about six hundred miles before it empties into the St.

Lawrence. It has two mouths, which form the island upon which Montreal

is situated. The entire region drained by it and its tributaries

measures eighty thousand square miles. These tributaries and the Ottawa

itself form highways for, probably, the largest lumber trade in the

world. The clearing of great tracts of country by the lumbermen has

opened the way for agriculturists; and numerous thriving settlements are

found upon and near their banks, all of which look to Ottawa as their

business centre. As these settlements increase in number and size, the

prosperity of Ottawa will multiply in proportion. The navigation of the

river has been much improved by engineering, especially for the

transportation of lumber, dams and slides having been constructed for

its passage over rapids and falls.

This immense supply of lumber is, much of it, arrested at Ottawa, where

the almost unequaled water power is utilized in saw-mills, which furnish

the city its principal employment, and from which issue yearly almost

incredible quantities of sawed lumber. There are also flour mills, and

manufactories of iron castings, mill machinery, and agricultural

implements, which give it commercial importance, and a sound basis of

prosperity.

Ottawa is connected by steamer with Montreal, and by the Rideau Canal

with Lake Ontario at Kingston, while the Grand Trunk Railway sends a

branch line from Prescott. The Ottawa River is navigable for one hundred

and eighty-eight miles above the city, by steamers of the Union

Navigation Company, but there are numerous portages around falls and

rapids. The last stopping place of the steamer is Mattawa, a remote port

of the Hudson Bay Company. Beyond that outpost of civilization there is

nothing but unexplored and unbroken wilderness. Moore's Canadian boat

song makes mention of the Ottawa River:--

"Soon as the woods on shore look dim,

We'll sing, at St. Ann's, our parting hymn.

"Ottawa's tide, this trembling moon

Shall see us afloat on thy waters soon."

Ottawa is divided into Upper and Lower Town by the Rideau Canal, which

contains eight massive locks within the city limits, and is crossed by

two bridges, one of stone and iron, and the other of stone alone. The

streets of the city are wide and regular. Sparks street is the

fashionable promenade, containing the principal retail stores. Sussex is

also a prominent business street. The principal hotels are the Russell

House, near the Parliament Buildings; Windsor House, in the Upper Town;

and the Albion, on Court House Square.

The most prominent church edifice in the city is the Roman Catholic

Cathedral of Notre Dame, which is of stone, with double spires two

hundred feet in height. The interior is very fine, and contains as an

altar piece Murillo's "Flight into Egypt." St. Patrick's, Roman

Catholic, and St. Andrew's, Presbyterian, are also striking churches. At

the corner of Bolton and Sussex streets is the imposing stone building

of the Grey Nunnery, while the group of buildings belonging to the Black

Nunnery is to the eastward of Cartier Square. There are, besides, in the

city, two convents, two hospitals, three orphan asylums, and a Magdalen

asylum, all under the control of the Roman Catholics. The Ottawa

University is also a Roman Catholic institution, and has a large

building in Wilbrod street. The Ladies' College, in Albert street, is a

Protestant school.

But all these structures sink into insignificance when compared to the

Government Buildings, which constitute the most prominent feature of the

city of Ottawa. They are situated on an eminence known as Barrack Hill,

which rises one hundred and fifty feet above the river, and were erected

at a cost of about four millions of dollars. They form three sides of a

vast quadrangle, which occupies nearly four acres. The Parliament House

is on the south side or front of the quadrangle, and is four hundred and

seventy-two feet long, and the same number of feet deep, from the front

of the main tower, to the rear of the library. The Departmental

Buildings run north from this main structure, forming the east and west

sides of the quadrangle. The eastern side is five hundred and eighteen

feet long, by two hundred and fifty-three feet deep, and the western

side is two hundred and eleven feet long, by two hundred and

seventy-seven feet deep. These latter buildings contain the various

government bureaus, in the west block being also found the model room

of the Patent Office, and the Post Office. The entire structure is of

cream-colored sandstone, with arches and doors of red Potsdam sandstone,

and the external ornamental work of this sandstone. Its architecture is

in the Italian-Gothic style. Green and purple slates cover the roof, and

the pinnacles are ornamented with elaborate iron trellis work. The

columns and arches of the legislative chambers are of marble. These

chambers are capacious and richly finished, and have stained glass

windows. The Chamber of Commons is reached by an entrance to the left of

the main entrance, under the central tower, and the marble of its

columns and arches is beautiful. The Senate Hall, which is entered from

the right of the main entrance, contains the vice-regal canopy and

throne, and a portrait of Queen Victoria. There are also full-length

portraits, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, of George III, and Queen Charlotte.

The Library is a circular structure, on the north front of the

Parliament House, with a dome ninety feet high, and contains about forty

thousand volumes. A massive stone wall incloses the fourth side of the

quadrangle, and the inclosure is laid out with tree-shaded walks.

Rideau Hall, the official residence of the Governor General, is in New

Edinburgh, a suburban town on the opposite side of the Rideau River,

connected with Ottawa by a bridge. Rideau Hall has been for several

years past the home of the Marquis of Lorne, Governor General of the

Dominion of Canada, and the Princess Louise, fourth daughter of Queen

Victoria. The love which the Canadians bear their Queen was most loyally

manifested on the arrival of the Governor General and the Princess, his

wife. Every honor was shown the Marquis which was due his official and

hereditary rank; but the most extravagant marks of affection and

veneration were lavished upon the Princess, who was regarded as a

representative of her mother. Whenever she proceeded through the

Dominion, her progress was a triumphal procession. The people crowded to

catch but a glimpse of her face, or to hear the tones of her voice. She

is described as an extremely affable lady, the beauty of Her Majesty's

family, caring less for the traditions and observances of royalty than

her imperial mother, with great native shrewdness and marked ability as

an artist. She has traveled extensively throughout the dominion of

Canada, having reached its extreme western limit, and crossed the United

States from the Atlantic to the Pacific. It is said she does not greatly

admire Canada, and proposes to spend as little time at Ottawa as

possible, regarding the somewhat primitive society there as almost

semi-barbaric. But when she returns permanently to the island of her

birth she will go with greatly enlarged views, and a knowledge of the

world, and especially of the people of the new world, which ought to

constitute her an efficient counsellor in affairs of state.

The Marquis of Lorne, Governor General of Canada, is described as an

extremely handsome gentleman of the Scotch type, with large literary

attainments, and with a desire to conciliate the people over whom he has

been sent to rule. For many generations to come it will undoubtedly be

Ottawa's highest boast that it has numbered among its citizens the son

of one of the proudest nobles of the British realm, and a princess of

the blood.

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