CHAPTER XVIII.

NEWARK.

From New York to Newark.--Two Hundred Years Ago.--The

Pioneers.--Public Parks.--City of Churches.--The Canal.--

Sailing Up-Hill.--An Old Graveyard.--New Amsterdam and New

Netherlands.--The Dutch and English.--Adventurers from New

England.--The Indians.--Rate of Population.--Manufactures.--

Rank as a City.

Nine miles, in a westerly direction, from New York, on a lovely morning

in the early autumn of 1880, by the comfortable cars of that most

perfect of all railways, the "Pennsylvania," brought our little party to

Newark, which I had often heard spoken of as the leading commercial and

manufacturing city of New Jersey.

Situated in the northeastern corner of the State, on the west bank of

the Passaic, three miles from its entrance into Newark Bay--the city of

Newark occupies the most delightful spot in a State famed for its

beauty. In our short journey from New York we passed over broad, level

meadows, bearing some resemblance to a western prairie. The Passaic and

the Hackensack rivers traverse these prairie-like meadows, while rising

abruptly in the distance you behold the historic Bergen Heights.

Disembarking at the conveniently located Market Street Depot, we sought

and found a temporary home, and then lost no time in gratifying our

native curiosity, by exploring the city and learning something of its

origin and history.

Newark is over two hundred years old, and yet is regularly laid out; its

wide and well paved streets are adorned and shaded with grand old

elms--some of them coeval with the founding of the city. Its chief

business thoroughfare, Broad street, running north and south, through

the central part of the city, has many fine business blocks, and a finer

avenue cannot be found than the south end of Broad street, lined with

wide-spreading elms, and extending, apparently, into infinitude. One

peculiarity that absorbed my attention, was the vast number of

manufacturing establishments here, located, for the most part, outside

of the central streets, and these are doubtless the source of her

prosperity.

About two hundred years ago Newark was an obscure hamlet of some sixty

odd settlers. Since that time it has grown into a city of one hundred

and thirty thousand inhabitants. The handful of original settlers were,

for the most part, upright, earnest and sturdy mechanics, of Anglo-Saxon

blood, and they laid the foundation of what is now one of the most

important cities of the Union, ranking, indeed, among the foremost of

the world's industrial bee-hives--a monster workshop, whose skilled

labor cannot well be surpassed anywhere. They called their village after

the old English town of Newark-on-Trent; and Newark-on Passaic has now

grown into a city ten times greater than its ancient namesake.

The public parks possess a startling interest to the stranger visiting

Newark for the first time. Seldom have I found so many, and of such

extent, in a city that measures only five miles long, by five broad.

Possessed of such breathing places, a town must of necessity be healthy,

and I accordingly found this strongly indicated in the faces of all I

met, more especially of the blooming young maidens and their mammas. We

are told that when the first settlers purchased the site of Newark and

its surrounding lands, of the native Indians, and laid out their embryo

city, they wisely reserved certain tracts for public purposes, and that

most of these still exist as ornaments of the city. Besides those set

apart for churches and graveyards, the principal reservations were the

"Training-place," the "Market-place," and the "Watering-place." The

Training-place is now Military Park, on the east side of Broad street,

near its centre; and the Market-place is now Washington Park. These and

several others in various parts of this favored city, form delightful

retreats from the sun's rays--shaded by majestic elms--a veritable _rus

in urbe_. The suburbs also are passing beautiful, extending to Orange on

the west, and to within a mile of Elizabeth on the south--both busy

towns.

Like Brooklyn, Newark may be called a city of churches, and its

enlightened and industrious citizens are a church-going people. The

Reformed Dutch Church dates from 1663; and the First Presbyterian from

1667. These were the parent churches, and their progeny are manifold and

prosperous, as noted in the exceptionally high standard of morality that

generally characterizes the peaceful workers in this hive of industry.

I was especially struck with the canal which flows under Broad street,

and the ingenuity displayed in surmounting a hill that crosses it, by

the barges navigating its waters. Here it may be almost said that among

their numberless other inventions, the inhabitants of Newark have

discovered the art of sailing up a hill! Instead of a lock, by which

similar difficulties of inland navigation are usually overcome, the

barges are drawn in a cradle up an inclined plane, by means of a

stationary steam engine placed at the top of the hill, where the canal

recommences, and the barges are re-launched to continue their course

westward.

In my rambles down Broad street, on its well-paved sidewalk, flanked by

flourishing stores, in which every commodity, from a five hundred dollar

chronometer down to a ten cent pair of men's socks, is presented for

sale, I stopped at an arched gateway on my right, my attention being

arrested by a patch of green sward behind it. The gate stood invitingly

open, and passing through, I found myself in a venerable and disused

graveyard.

"This is the oldest of the city graveyards," said an elderly gentleman,

to whom I addressed myself for information, "and is of the same age as

the city itself. It is the resting-place of many of the original

inhabitants. The first church of Newark stood here, and around, you will

observe, are tombs, bearing dates of two centuries ago." Such, I found,

on investigation, to be the case. These old stones--most of their

inscriptions now undecipherable,--were erected to commemorate the dead

colonists' names and virtues, more than one hundred years before

Washington was born, or they had dreamed of casting off the authority of

mother England. I reflected: what was Newark like in those far-away

days, two hundred years ago? How did she compare with Newark in the year

of grace 1880?

In 1608 Henry Hudson descended the noble river which bears his name, and

the settlement of _New Amsterdam_ by the Hollanders soon followed. Next,

_New Netherlands_ was added to the territory of the Dutchmen, then a

great maritime people. Down to the beginning of the seventeenth century

the colonization of New Netherlands, on the western banks of the Hudson,

had made but little progress. It was all a wilderness, peopled only by

Indians. The white man had scarcely penetrated its fertile valleys. The

story is told, however, that some of Hudson's hardy crew had sailed in

their boats through the _Kill-von-Kule_, at the north of what is now

Staten Island, and passed northward into the Passaic River. The

enterprising Dutch traders were no doubt fully cognizant of the

boundless possibilities of the country, whose fairest spot was destined

to form the site of the city of Newark.

But these Dutchmen were only lawless adventurers. By right of discovery,

a priority of title to all the lands in North America was claimed by

England, who declared war upon Holland and all her reputed possessions.

_New Amsterdam_ and the province of _New Netherlands_ were among the

first to succumb, and in 1664 England obtained complete command of the

Atlantic coast. _New Amsterdam_ then became _New York_, in honor of the

Duke of York, brother of King Charles II; and _New Netherlands_ became

_New Jersey_, in compliment to the Countess of Jersey, a court favorite.

To this conquest by England we owe our English tongue, for had the

Hollanders vanquished the English, and retained possession, we should

doubtless all be speaking "low Dutch" to-day, instead of English. But

this is a digression.

Colonization rapidly followed when the phlegmatic Dutchmen were turned

out, and the first English governor of the province of New Jersey

inaugurated a very liberal form of government. This induced many

adventurers from New England to unite their fortunes with the colonists

of New Jersey. Under the leadership of the enterprising Captain Treat,

these New Englanders proceeded to select a site for their new town. They

soon found a spot exactly suited to their wishes; a fertile soil,

beautiful woodlands, and a navigable stream; while away to the eastward

was a wide and sheltered bay.

In May, 1666, about thirty families, John Treat being their captain,

laid the foundation of Newark. A conference was held with the Indians,

which resulted satisfactorily to all. They transferred the land to the

white men, and received in payment for what now constitutes the county

of Essex, "Fifty double-hands of powder, one hundred bars of lead,

twenty axes, twenty coats, ten guns, twenty pistols, ten kettles, ten

swords, four blankets, four barrels of beer, two pairs of breeches,

fifty knives, twenty hoes, eight hundred and fifty fathoms of wampum,

two ankers of liquor, or something equivalent; and three troopers'

coats, with the ornaments thereon."

A few years later a second purchase was made, by which the limits of the

city they were building were extended westward to the top of Orange

Hill, the equivalent being "two guns, three coats and thirteen cans of

rum."

For many years, Newark grew and prospered. In 1681 she was the "most

compact town in the province, with a population of 500." In 1713 Queen

Anne granted a charter of incorporation, thus making the township of

Newark a body politic, which continued in force until the Revolution.

With the successful close of the war, Newark entered on a new and

prosperous era, and the population increased very largely. In 1795

bridges were built over the Passaic and the Hackensack. In 1810 the

population is given as 6,000, and in 1830 it had increased to 11,000.

From this date its rate of progress has been very rapid, and at the

present time Newark ranks as the thirteenth city of the Union in

population.

I cannot conclude this chapter without a few words on the manufactures

of Newark. The early settlers were, as we have said, in the main,

mechanics and artisans, and from this circumstance the growth of the

city lay in the direction of manufactures. Newark, to-day, is among the

foremost cities of the Union in intelligent industry. So early as 1676

efforts were made to promote the introduction of manufactures. The

nearness of the city to New York, the chief market in the Union, with

shipping facilities to every quarter of the globe; with the great iron

and coal fields easy of access, and a thrifty and industrious people,

Newark drew to her mills and factories abundant capital and skilled

workmen. She has contributed more useful inventions to industrial

progress than any other American city. The Newark Industrial Exposition

was originated in 1872, for the purpose of holding an annual exhibition

of her local manufactures. The enterprise met with signal success. We

have counted no less than four hundred distinct manufactories in

operation in this extraordinary city, a list of which would occupy too

much of our space. Hardware, tools, machinery, jewelry, leather, hats,

and trunks seem to predominate. Of the last-named indispensable article,

Newark has the most extensive manufactory in the world, 7,000 trunks per

week, or about 365,000 yearly being produced here. It is said that in

the manufacture of the best steam fire-engines, Newark ranks first. The

number of persons finding employment in the factories is about 25,000,

and the amount of wages paid weekly averages $250,000, or about

$13,000,000 per year. The annual value of the productions of all her

manufactories amounts to about $60,000,000.

Thus it is seen that Newark has developed into one of the principal

producing cities of the United States, the value of her diversified

manufactured products making her, in this respect, the third, if not the

second city of the Union.

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