LANCASTER.
First Visit to Lancaster.--Eastern Pennsylvania.--Conestoga
River.--Early History of Lancaster.--Early Dutch Settlers.--
Manufactures.--Public Buildings.--Whit-Monday.--Home of three
Noted Persons.--James Buchanan, his Life and Death.--Thaddeus
Stevens and his Burial Place.--General Reynolds and his
Death.--"Cemetery City."
My first visit to Lancaster was made on a bright morning in the early
part of April, 1877. We rode out of the West Philadelphia Depot in the
eight o'clock accommodation, which we were told would make sixty-five
stops in a short journey of seventy-three miles. I did not count the
stations, but should have no hesitancy in fully indorsing my informant.
The frequency of the halts gave us an excellent opportunity to explore
the surrounding country, and reminded one of street-car experiences in
metropolitan cities, where one is brought to a stand at every crossing.
Eastern Pennsylvania is beyond question the finest section of the State;
and the tourist who sojourns at Bryn Mawr, Downingtown, Bird-in-Hand,
and many of their sister villages, will see abundant evidences of the
wealth and prosperity of an industrious people. The country is
sufficiently rolling to be picturesque, without any of the ruggedness
which characterizes the central and western portions of the State.
Sometimes from the car windows the roofs and spires of several villages
may be seen in different directions, while substantial farmhouses with
their commodious out-buildings, are on every hand. The land is brought
to a high state of cultivation, and the entire region seems almost like
an extensive park.
Lancaster, the county-seat of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, is
situated on the Conestoga River, seventy-three miles from Philadelphia.
This river, which is a tributary of the Susquehanna, is made navigable
by nine locks and slack-water pools, from Lancaster to its mouth at Safe
Harbor, eighteen miles distant. Considerable trade is brought to the
city by its means; while Tidewater Canal opens up navigable
communication to Baltimore, by way of Port Deposit. Lancaster was, from
1799 to 1812, the seat of the State government; it was incorporated in
1818, and was at one time the principal inland town of Pennsylvania. The
oldest turnpike in the United States terminates at Lancaster, connecting
that city with Philadelphia. It has now something more than twenty-five
thousand inhabitants, largely descended from the early Dutch settlers,
whose names are still borne, and whose language, corrupted into
"Pennsylvania Dutch," is still a most familiar one in that region.
The city is principally a manufacturing one, producing locomotives,
axes, carriages and cotton goods, and being particularly celebrated for
its rifles. It has many fine buildings, both public and private. The
Court House and County Prison will both attract attention, the former
being in the Corinthian and the latter in the Norman style of
architecture. Fulton Hall, near the Market-place, is a large edifice
used for public assemblies. Franklin and Marshall College, organized in
1853 by the union of Marshall College with the old Franklin College,
founded in 1787, is found on James street, and possesses a library of
thirteen thousand volumes. It has a large number of both daily and
weekly newspapers, and not less than fifteen churches.
Whit-Monday is by far the greatest social holiday with the Germans of
Lancaster city and county, and, as such, is the scene of general
festivities among the city folk and a large influx of country visitors.
On the return of this day in Lancaster, the venders of beer, peanuts,
colored lemonade and pop-corn are stationed at every corner, and are
unusually clamorous and busy. The pic-nics, shows and flying horses are
well patronized; but I am told that the scene in the public square is
not so animated as in former days, when soap venders and the razor strop
man monopolized the attention of the rustic lads and lasses. Public
ceremonies have no apparent place in the observance of this anniversary.
Lancaster is noted for having been the residence of three persons who
have played an important part in the affairs of the nation: James
Buchanan, our fifteenth President; Hon. Thaddeus Stevens, the champion
of the slave; and General Reynolds, the gallant soldier, who fell at
Gettysburg. These all sleep their last sleep within the city limits.
James Buchanan, though born in Franklin County, Pennsylvania, made his
home at Lancaster during all the years of his statesmanship, finding at
Wheatland, his country residence, in the vicinity of the city,
relaxation from the cares of public life. Born in 1791, in 1814 he was
elected a member of the Pennsylvania House of Representatives. In 1820
he was elected Congressman, holding that position until 1831, when he
was appointed ambassador to Russia. In 1834 he was made Senator; in 1845
Secretary of State under President Polk, and Ambassador to England in
1854. In 1856 he was elected President of the United States, the close
of his administration being signalized by the secession of South
Carolina, and the incipient steps of the Rebellion. He died at his home
at Wheatland, in Lancaster, on June first, 1868.
The remains of Thaddeus Stevens, for so many years one of the most
fearless champions of the anti-slavery cause in Congress, lie buried in
"Schreiner's Cemetery," in a quiet and retired corner at the side
furthest from its entrance on West Chestnut street. An exceedingly plain
stone, with a simple but expressive inscription, tells the stranger the
date of his birth and death, and the reasons which led him to request
that his remains should be laid in this, the most unpretentious cemetery
I have ever seen within the limits of any city. The word Stevens is
clearly cut in large letters on the west end of the stone. On the
opposite end I noticed a gilt star. On the north side is the following
inscription:--
"THADDEUS STEVENS,
BORN AT DANVILLE, CALEDONIA CO., VERMONT,
APRIL 4TH, 1792.
DIED AT WASHINGTON, D. C,
AUGUST 11TH, 1868."
On the south side of the monument are found these words:--
"I repose in this quiet and secluded spot,
Not from any natural preference for solitude,
But finding other cemeteries limited as to race,
By charter rules,
I have chosen this that I might illustrate in my death
The principles which I advocated through a long life:
Equality of man before his Creator."
General Reynolds was among the first to fall at the battle of
Gettysburg. On the evening of June thirtieth, 1863, while commanding the
First, Third and Eleventh Corps of the Army of the Potomac, he encamped
near the village of Emmetsburg, Maryland. He was ordered by General
Meade to move early in the morning, with his First and Third Corps, in
the direction of Gettysburg. The Third Cavalry Division, under General
John Buford, was attacked on Wednesday morning, on the Chambersburg
pike, about two miles west of the village, by the vanguard of the Rebel
army, which, however, were driven back upon their reserves, but advanced
again and, with greatly augmented numbers, drove the Union troops before
them. General Wadsworth, hearing the sound of the conflict, came up with
his men and seized the range of hills in the direction of Chambersburg,
overlooking the battle ground from the northwest. While Wadsworth was
getting into position, Reynolds rode forward, unattended, to gain an
idea of the position and numbers of the enemy. He discovered a heavy
force not far distant, in a grove, and, while reconnoitring through his
field-glass, one of the enemy's sharpshooters took aim at him, with
fatal effect. He fell to the ground, never to rise again. He was a brave
and dauntless soldier, who had already won such distinction on the
battlefield that few were entrusted with as heavy responsibilities as
he. Had his life been prolonged, no doubt he would have been promoted
still higher, and his name might have been written among those of the
successful generals of the war. His ashes repose at Lancaster, where due
honor is done them.
Lancaster might not inappropriately be called the Cemetery City, for
every principal street seems to lead to a cemetery. Here, in these
cities of the dead, lie those who have passed away for many generations
back. Numerous venerable stones record, in Dutch, the names and virtues
of Herrs and Fraus who lived and died in the last century, while more
modern tombstones and monuments are erected over the later dead. Few
places are more interesting to one who would study a people and their
history, than an old graveyard; and few cities furnish the visitor more
numerous or better opportunities than Lancaster.