HARRISBURG.
A Historic Tree.--John Harris' Wild Adventure with the
Indians.--Harris Park.--History of Harrisburg.--Situation
and Surroundings.--State House.--State Library.--A Historic
Flag.--View from State House Dome.--Capitol Park.--Monument
to Soldiers of Mexican War.--Monument to Soldiers of Late
War.--Public Buildings.--Front Street.--Bridges over the
Susquehanna.--Mt. Kalmia Cemetery.--Present Advantages and
Future Prospects of Harrisburg.
A century and a half ago, John Harris, seeking traffic with the red men
of the Susquehanna, built a rude hut, dug a well, and thereby began a
work which, taken up by his son, led to the founding of the Capital City
of Pennsylvania, a city destined to take rank among the first of a great
State. The stump of an old tree, in a beautiful little park which skirts
the Susquehanna, on a line parallel with Front street, marks the scene
of an early adventure of Harris with the Indians, and tells the stranger
of his birth and death. About 1718 or 1719, Harris, who had settled at
this point on the Susquehanna, as a trader, was visited by a predatory
band of Indians returning from the "Patowmark," who made an exchange of
goods with him, for rum. Becoming drunken and riotous, he finally
refused them any more liquor, when they seized him and bound him to a
tree, dancing around their captive, until he thought his last day had
come. His negro servant, however, summoned some friendly Shawnees from
the opposite side of the river, who, after a slight struggle with the
drunken Indians, rescued Harris from his bonds and probably from a death
by torture. The stump referred to is that of the historical tree, which
was a gigantic mulberry, eleven feet seven inches in circumference. Here
also is the grave of Harris, which is surrounded by a strong iron fence,
and a young mulberry tree has been planted, by one of his descendants,
to take the place of the one whose trunk alone stands as a monument of
the past.
During the summer months this romantic spot is the favorite resort of
the boys and girls of the neighborhood, and whenever the weather is
favorable, a large troop of juveniles may be seen spinning their tops,
rolling their hoops and playing at croquet on the lawn. What a contrast
is here unfolded to the imagination, as we stand at the grave of the
venerable pioneer, and contemplate the wonderful change that has
characterized the progress of events during the past hundred years. But
little more than a century ago there was a solitary trader with his
family upon the borders of a great river in the wilderness. His goods
were brought on a pack-horse, and his ferry was a row boat. To-day a
thriving, beautiful city takes the place of the log cabin; children
sport where once the treacherous Indian sought the life of the hardy
frontiersman; the river is spanned by wonderful bridges; and a hundred
railroad trains pass through its streets in the course of twenty-four
hours.
Harrisburg was laid out by John Harris, Jr., the son of the pioneer, in
1785; it was incorporated as a borough in 1791; became the State Capital
in 1812; and received a city charter in 1860. Its population in 1880
numbered more than thirty thousand persons.
[Illustration: HARRISBURG AND BRIDGES OVER THE SUSQUEHANNA.]
Harrisburg is most picturesquely situated, on the Susquehanna River,
at the eastern gateway of the Alleghenies. The river is here a mile
wide, shallow at most seasons of the year, but capable of becoming a
turbulent torrent, carrying destruction along its banks. On the opposite
side of the river to the south are the Conestoga Hills; while to the
northward are the bold and craggy outlines of the Kittatinny or Blue
Mountains. But five miles away is the gap in these mountains through
which the Susquehanna forces its way, and the summits of these sentinels
are plainly visible. Although on the very threshold of the mountainous
region of Pennsylvania, the pastoral beauty of landscape which
characterizes eastern Pennsylvania creeps up to meet the ruggedness
which predominates beyond; and the two are here blended with most
charming results; the softness of the one half veiling the ruggedness of
the other; while the picturesqueness of each is heightened by contrast.
The handsomest and most noticeable building of Harrisburg is the State
House, which is conspicuously placed on an eminence near the centre of
the city. It is T-shaped, having a front of one hundred and eighty feet
by eighty in depth, and with an extension of one hundred and five feet
by fifty-four feet. It is built of brick, and is three stories high,
including the basement. A large circular portico, sustained by six Ionic
columns, fronts the main entrance. The building is surmounted by a dome,
reaching an altitude of one hundred and eight feet. A State Library,
with accommodation for one hundred thousand volumes, and possessing at
the present time thirty thousand volumes, is one of the features of the
Capitol. This library contains a number of portraits, curiosities and
art treasures, prominent among which are two small portraits of
Columbus and Americus Vespucius, the work of a celebrated Florentine
artist; a picture of the event already narrated in the life of John
Harris; and a reflecting telescope, purchased by Benjamin Franklin, and
through which was taken the first observation in the western hemisphere,
of the transit of Venus.
In the Flag Room of the State House, where are preserved the
Pennsylvania State flags used by the different regimental organizations
in the war for the Union, is a flag captured by the Confederates at
Gettysburg, and afterwards recaptured in the baggage of Jefferson Davis.
We find the following brief account of the capture of this flag in the
"Harrisburg Visitors' Guide," prepared by Mr. J. R. Orwig, Assistant
State Librarian, to whom we are indebted for favors in our literary
work. "It was on the evening of the first day; all the color guard were
killed, the last being Corporal Joseph Gutelius, of Mifflinburg, Union
County. When surrounded, and almost alone, he was commanded to surrender
the flag. His mute reply was to enfold it in his arms, and he was
instantly shot dead through its silken folds." He lies buried at
Gettysburg.
The view from the State House dome is exceptionally grand. I stood on
that eminence one bright morning, during the early part of my sojourn at
Harrisburg, in the spring of 1877. To eastward is a picturesque, rolling
country, varied by hill and dale, field and woodland, with villages or
isolated farmhouses nestling here and there in their midst, the
brilliant green tint of the foreground melting imperceptibly away into
the soft purple haze of the far distance. In front of the city to the
westward lies the broad river, gleaming like a ribbon of silver in the
sunlight, dotted with emerald islands, and winding away to the
southeast, between sloping banks and rocky crags, until it at last loses
itself in the misty horizon. To the northward is distinctly seen the gap
in the mountains through which the river approaches the city. The bold
and abrupt outlines of the mountains are plainly traced, and the scenery
in this region is exceptionally grand. Immediately surrounding the State
House is the city, spread out with its labyrinth of streets, its
factories and furnaces, its stately public buildings, and its elegant
private residences, presenting a panorama fair to look upon, and
evidencing the prosperity and industry of its people. To obtain a view
from this dome is well worth a visit to Harrisburg.
The State House is surrounded by Capitol Park, embracing thirteen acres,
and inclosed by an iron fence. These grounds gently slope from the
centre, and are ornamented with stately trees, beautiful shrubbery and
flowers and closely-shorn greensward. The site was set apart for its
present purpose before Harrisburg was a city, by John Harris, its
public-spirited founder. Fine views are obtained from it of the suburb
of East Harrisburg and the Reservoir, Mt. Kalmia Cemetery, the tower of
the new State Arsenal, and the dome of the State Insane Asylum. The
prominent feature of this park, next to the State House, is, however,
the beautiful monument erected to the memory of the soldiers who fell in
the Mexican War. It is one hundred and five feet high, with a sub-base
of granite, a base proper, with buttresses at each corner surmounted by
eagles, and a Corinthian column of Maryland marble, surmounted by a
statue of Victory, the latter executed at Rome, of fine Italian marble.
The sides of the base are paneled, and contain the names of the
different battles of the Mexican War. The monument is surrounded by an
inclosure constructed of muskets used by the United States soldiers in
Mexico. In front of the monument are a number of guns, trophies of the
Mexican war, and several others presented by General Lafayette.
Another monument, at the intersection of State and Second streets, is in
its design purely antique, being founded on the proportions of the pair
of obelisks at the gate of Memphis, and of that which stands in the
Place Vendome at Paris. It contains the following inscription: "To the
Soldiers of Dauphin County, who gave their lives for the life of the
Union, in the war for the suppression of the Rebellion, 1861-5. Erected
by their fellow-citizens, 1869."
In East Harrisburg, or "Allison's Hill," as it is called, will be seen
Brant's private residence, built in the style of the Elizabethan period,
the massive stone Catholic Convent, and St. Genevieve's Academy. On
State street is Grace M. E. Church, one of the most costly and beautiful
churches in the State. Not far away is St. Patrick's Pro-Cathedral. The
State Lunatic Asylum is a vast and imposing edifice, a mile and a half
north of the city.
Front street, which overlooks the river, is the favorite promenade of
the city. Here may be seen the broad river, with its craft and numerous
islands, the villages on the opposite shore, and the delightful
landscape beyond. Here the citizens often congregate on fine evenings,
to watch the sunset views, which are especially fine from this point. On
the ridge opposite, is Fort Washington and the line of defenses erected
in 1863, in expectation of an invasion of the Southern army. Front
street is by far the finest street in the city, containing the most
imposing residences, being bordered by trees, and forming a most
attractive drive. From State street to Paxton, it presents an almost
unbroken range of palatial buildings of brick, stone, marble or granite.
On this street is found the residence of the Governor, presented to the
State by the citizens of Harrisburg, in 1864, as the Executive Mansion.
A more desirable location for a residence can scarcely be imagined than
that of Hon. J. D. Cameron, on the southeast corner of State and Front
streets, overlooking the Susquehanna. Near the corner of Front street
and Washington avenue is the old "Harris Mansion," originally erected in
1766, by John Harris, and remaining in the Harris family until 1840, but
now the home of Hon. Simon Cameron.
The Market street bridge spans the river, resting midway on Forster's
Island, the western end being an ancient structure, dating back to 1812,
while the eastern end, having once been destroyed by flood, and once by
fire, was rebuilt in modern style in 1866. The second bridge across the
river is at the head of Mulberry street, but it is used for trains
alone. This bridge is also divided by Forster's Island. It has once been
destroyed by fire, and was entirely remodeled in 1856.
Mt. Kalmia Cemetery is a charming resting-place of the dead, on the
heights overlooking the city. Its natural beauties are many, and they
have been enhanced by art. It is reached from East State street.
Harrisburg has extensive iron manufactories, and is the centre of six
important railways. More than one hundred passenger trains arrive and
depart daily, and few cities have a greater number of transient
visitors. It is one of the most prosperous cities of the Commonwealth;
situated in a fertile valley, in view of some of the grandest scenery in
America, with railroads, canals and macadamized roads, diverging in all
directions, and connecting it with every section of the country; with
important business interests, and an intelligent, industrious and
prosperous population; the political centre of one of the chief States
of the Union; it has much to congratulate itself upon in the present,
and more to hope for from the future. Another decade will see vastly
increased business interests, and a population nearly if not quite
double that of to-day.